THE RELATIONSHIP BETWEEN CLOTHING INTEREST AND SELF .../67531/metadc... · Self-Concept and...

THE RELATIONSHIP BETWEEN CLOTHING INTEREST AND SELF-CONCEPT

IN FEMALE UNDERGRADUATE COLLEGE STUDENTS

APPROVED:

M a P r o f e s s o r

Minor Professor ^

Dean of the School of Education

Dean of the Graduate School

THE RELATIONSHIP BETWEEN CLOTHING INTEREST AND SELF-CONCEPT

IN FEMALE UNDERGRADUATE COLLEGE STUDENTS

THESIS

Presented to the Graduate Council of the

North Texas State University in Partial

Fulfillment of the Requirements

For the Degree of

MASTER OF SCIENCE

By

Anthony P, Dulin, B. S.

Denton, Texas

June, i.̂ bo

TABLE OF CONTENTS

Page

LIST OF TABLES iv

Chapter

I. INTRODUCTION AND RELATED LITERATURE . 1

Social Factors Affecting Clothing Interest

Individual Factors Affecting Clothing I nl er e st

Self-Concept and Personality Hypotheses

" 1" . i. 1 METHODOLOGY AND PROCEDURE 11

Subiects Description cf the Instruments Procedure ' Statistical Treatment- of Data

7TT R̂ qTjy TO ' -u J - -L • 1 -~~i V_' W .uJ kJ « # % * « * • « * 0 * & a *» <* * » • * •- * J.. V-/

Discussion Recommendations for Future Research

rt/ Q n.vTi'/!'Aft y oA

APPENDIX I * 29

APPENDIX II. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32

BIBLIOGRAPHY . . 40

LIST OF TABLES

Table Page

I. Correlation Coefficient and Levels of Significance for Clothing Interest and Self-Concept Variables . . . 17

II. Level of Significance of the Differences betvreen the Low, Middle, and High Clothing Intere-st Scores and Self-Concept Scores as Determined by • Simple Analysis of Variance. . . . . . . . 20-21

III. Summary of Analysis of Variance between Clothing Interest and Self-Concept Variables 22

.v

CHAPTER I -

INTRODUCTION AND RELATED LITERATURE

Using as a guide the vast amount of money expended for

design and promotion of women's fashions and again the vast

amount of money spent by women on their clothing choices,

it is readily apparent that clothing interest is definitely

a fundamental aspect of a woman's behavior in the American

culture today. However, the amount or direction cf clothing

interest that any given woman will express is thought to be

an external response to her internal impressions of herself

as a person~~her self-concept.

Much has been written about the role of self-concept

in. behavior (Brownfain, (4); Jung, (11); Mitchell, (12);

Moustalcas, (13); and Taylor, (IS) ), Fitts, one of the

rese^rcners xn sen—concept measurement, lias clearly

stated uhe benavioral effects of a negative self-concept.

The individual's concept of himself has been demon-si rated to be highly influential in much of his behavior and also to be directly related to his general personality and state of menial health. Tnose people who see themselves as undesirable, Vv'jxtb.j.ess, or ' bad5, tend to act accordingly. Those wno have a highly unrealistic concept of self tend u approach lue ana other people in unrealistic ways. Those who nave very deviant self-concepts tend to behave In deviant ways (7, p. 1).

1

Social Factors Affecting Clothing Interest

Since a woman's self-concept is so influential in her

interaction with her environment, one would, therefore, as-

sume that the self-concept acts as an expressive filter that

would accentuate positive attributes of the self and strive

to show possession of attributes which are not actually

present but which are highly valued by her environment. An

example of this would be the wearing of cosmetic devices by

women who perceive themselves to be flat-chested. This

assumption gains support from the research conducted, in the

area of fashion motivation by Barr,

The really fundamental attitudes in the choice of clothes are those associated with the desire to con-form, desire fcr_ comfort, desire for economy7~~^e artistic impulse, and s e l f _ - i o n throngh~sexpand.

_ femininity. A desire to attain to ideals of slender-ness and. tallness was also found to be important in the selection, but individual differences in educa-tional background, economic status, reading, habits, amount, of technical knowledge, and professional in-terest in fashion were less important in determining clothing choice; such personality characteristics as distinctiveness, youthfulness, ana dignity seemed to be barely moderate importance as objectives in the choice of dress (3)«

A study relating the role of clothing in single-contact

perceptions cf people (the subjects were given time slide

exposures of the same woman dressed in four different clothing

and hair styles and told GO rate the personality of the women

on the basis of the slides alone) conducted by Bouty indicated

3

that clothing definitely influenced the ratings of female

judges. However, she was unable to predict the direction

and extent of the influence that clothing had on her judges'

ratings (6, p. 3382).

Bush and London have formulated a functional analysis

of the psychology of clothing. This non-experimental, hy-

pothetical analysis is based on the assumption that clothing

has a differentiating function in terms.of the social roles

and self-concepts of those who wear particular articles.

These are: (a) differences in modes of dress within a particular society are indicative of differ-ences in social roles ar.d-self-concepts of members of that society; (b) changes ir. fundamental or endur-ing modes of dress in a society are indicative of changes in the social roles and self-concepts of members of that society; (c) the greater or smaller the variability of clothing styles in a society, the less or more respectively well-defined and conflict-free are social roles in that society (5, p.

A consumer study conducted by Jacobi and Walters showed

dresses are used by most women as a symbol of membership in

certain socio-economic groups. These researchers have con-

cluded that the degree of awareness and concern with dresses

as a symbol varies within each group member according to the

"symbol acceptance concept." This concept recognizes three

different motivations that can influence a dress purchase

arid so consequently divide women into three buyer groups'.

4

(a) those who have assimilated the dress symbol for their group; (b) those who are experimenting and in the process of trying to learn the symbol; and (c) those who have little concern with status symbols in general, or with dresses as a status symbol in par-ticular (10, p. 214).

Barber and Lobel made an analysis of clothing prefer-

ences of women at different social levels by studying fashion

material in a number of women's magazines over a twenty-year

period. The socio-economic classes analyzed ranged from

"old money" upper class down to the lower middle class.

They found the most significant differences in women's cloth-

ing interest to exist between the "old money" rich and the

"new money" rich.

The women of "old money families" tend to be re-latively indifferent to swings in fashion; and their taste is oriented more to that of the British upper classes than to the French. They like woolens and prefer a tweedy look to a daring look. Ail this re-veals a "concern for birth distinction and English heredity-as against the distinction of occupational achievement." They respond to fashion messages that use such words as "aristocratic" and such phrases as "well-bred looks" or "a trumpet flare at the hip."

In contrast,- the•"new money" !*omen are fascinated with high fashion, especially as it is dictated by Paris. They strive for a chic, sophisticated look while at the same time, with an eye on the goal of gaining acceptance from the "old money" rich, they strive for an appearance of quiet, assured elegance.

As you move down into the range of the typical American woman, the aim ic to follow whatever "smam." style is "sweeping the country" provided that the style permits the women to emphasise their "respect-ability" aad prettiness. These women are more likely to look for guidance in their dress to Mrs, Earl Warren than the Duchess of V/insdor (2, p. 12?).

In the non-professional literature, Packard reported

the findings of a number of interviews with women in the

"old money" and "new money" groups. The following excerpt

from an interview was typical of those reported.

"A woman of some wealth amplified for me the difference of attitude of 'old money1 women and fnew money' women when she told of an evening she spent attending parties on the North Shore of Chicago. The first was at a club dominated by wealthy 'new money' millionaires. She had planned, for convenience to wear the same outfit to both affairs, a dramatic black gown accentuated by diamond accessories. Her hostess, however, admonished her to change before going on to the 'old money' affair. They looked through her wardrobe and the hostess pointed to a dark-brox\rn woolen dress as being ideal. My acquain-tance explained, 'It was the thing I had been wearing to come down to breakfast' (14, p. 117).Tr

Individual Factors Affecting Clothing Interest

Prior to the present time, there has been no attempt

to relate experimentally clothing interest to self-concept.

But, there have been three studies that sought to relate

clothing choice to overall personality adjustment. However,

these studies have produced contradictory results.

Silverman, the earliest researcher in this area, con-

cluded that girls in a better appearance group were better

adjusted, more sociable, and more intelligent than girls in

a poor appearance group (15, p. 491). These findings are

not borne out by Stepat, who found that girls who were more

6

concerned about clothing and appearance were more maladjusted

and had a narrower range of interests, activities, and ex-

perience than those who showed less concern about clothing

and appearance {16, p. 64). In the third study, Aiken re-

ported that those who scored high on decoration ana interest

tend to be uncomplicated and socially conscientious, but

also that there were some minor indications of adjustment

difficulties in the interest group (1, p. 119).

Self-Concept and Personality

There has been a plethora of studies indicating the

suitability of using the Tennessee 3 q If-Concept Scale in

yielding individual reactions to more amenable molar behavior

situations such as stress (4), neuroticism and maladjustment

(5), and conformity (8), Specifically, this study sought

to examine the relationship between the variable of clothing

interest, and the five self-concept variables or scales.

These are defensive positiveness (subtle measure of defen-

siveness), general maladjustment (differentiates psychiatric

patients from non-patients, but does not differentiate one

patient group from another), psychosis (differentiates psy-

chotic patients from other groups), personality disorder

(pertains to people with basic personality defects and weak-

nesses in contrast to psychotic states or the various neurcti-

7

reactions), and neurosis similarity in scale score to a

neurotic population).

Because of the multiple variable complexity involved

in attempting to meaningfully relate such large aspects

of behavior as clothing choice and personality, the scope

of the present study was purposefully limited to the rela-

tionships between clothing interest and self-concept as

measured by the Tennessee Self-Concept Scale.

Hypotheses

Using the foregoing literature as a theoretical basis,

the following research hypotheses were postulated:

1. There will be a significantly positive relationship

between the degree of clothing interest as measured by the

./liken Clothing Opinionnaire and the magnitude of defensive

positiveness as measured by the Tennessee Self-Concept Scale.



Aiken Clothing Opinionnaire and the magnitude of general

maladjustment as measured by the Tennessee Self-Concept

Scale.

3. There will be a significantly negative relationship


Aiken Clothing Opinionnaire and the severity of psychosis

as measured by the -Tennessee Self-Concept Scale.



Aiken Clothing Opinionnaire and the severity of personality

disorder as measured by the Tennessee Self-Concept Scale.



Aiken Clothing Opinionnaire and the severity of neurosis as


CHAPTER BIBLIOGRAPHY

1. Aiken, Jr., Lewis R., "The Relationships of Dress to Selected Measures of Personality in Undergraduate Women," -Journal of Social Psychology, LII (February. 1963),-119-123. ' ~

2. Barber, Bernard and Lobe1, Lyle S., "Fashion in Women's Clothes and the American Social System," Social Forces. XXXI (December, 1952), 124-131. •

3. Barr, De Y., "A Psychological Analysis of Fashion Moti-vation," Archives of Psychology, CLXXI, 1934.

Brownfain, John J., "Stability of the.Self-Concept as a Dimension of Personality," Journal of Abnormal and Social Psychology, XXXXVII (July", 19527, 597-606.~

5. Bush, George and London, Perry, "On the Disappearance of Knickers: Hypotheses for the Functional Analysis of the Psychology of Clothing," Journal of Social Psy-chology, LI' (May, I960), 359-366,

6. Douty, Helen Irene, "The Influence of Clothing on Per-ceptions of Clothing on Perceptions of Persons in Single Contact Situations," Dissertation Abstracts, XXIII (April, 1963), 3332-338? " ~~ -v .

Fitts, William H., The Tennessee Self-Concept Seal e, Nashville, Counselor Recordings and Tests,"" 1956."

8. Gividen, G. M,, "Stress in Airborne Training as Related to the Self-Concept, Motivation, and Biographical Factors," unpublished master's thesis, Vanderbilt University, 1959.

9. Hall, J. D., "An Investigation of Acquiescence Response Set, Extroversion, and Locus of Control as Related to Neuroticism and Maladjustment," unpublished doctoral dissertation, George Peabody College, 1964.

10

10. Jacobi, John E. and Walters, S. George, "Social Status and Consigner Choice," Social Forces, XXVI (March, 1953), 209-214.

11. Jung, Carl G», The Undiscovered Self, Boston, Little, Brown and Company, 1958.

12. Mitchell, James V., Jr., "Goal Setting Behavior as Function of Self-Acceptance, Over- and Under-Achieve-ment and Related Personality Variables," Journal of Educational Psychology, L (June, 1959), 93-104.

13. Moustakas, Clark E., The Self: Explorations in Personal Growth, New York, Harper and Brothers, 1956.

14. Packard., Vance, The Status Seekers, New York, Pocket Books, Inc., 1965.

15- Silverman, S. S., "Clothing and Appearance, Their Psy-chological Meaning for Teenage Girls," New York, Bureau of Publications, Teachers College, Columbia University, 1945.

16, Stepat, D. L., "A Study of Clothing and Appearance Problems in Relation to Some Aspects of Personality and Some Cultural Patterns In a Group of College Freshman Girls," Mlcrofi1m Abstracts, X, 1950.

17. Sundby, E. S., "A Study of Personality and Social Vari-ables Related to Conformity Behavior," unpublished doctoral dissertation, Vanderbilt University, 1953.

15. Taylor, Charles and Combs, Authur W., "Self Acceptance and Adjustment," Journal of Consulting Psychology, XVI (February, 1952), 39-91.

CHAPTER II

METHODOLOGY AND PROCEDURE

Subjects

The subjects consisted, of 100 female undergraduate stu-

dents enrolled in North Texas State University during both

summer sessions of 196?. Thirty-eight subjects ifere drawn

from education classes, 27 from physical education classes,

and 35 from psychology classes.

No effort was made to employ any type of sampling con-

trol and no normative data were gathered for age, sex, race,

or education variables. These types of data were unnecessary

since both scales used, in this study were standardized on

populations of college students, white subjects, and persons

in the 17 to 30 age bracket.

Description of the Instruments

Measure of Self-Concept

The Clinical and Research Form of the Tennessee Self-

Concept Scale developed by William H. Pitts, consists of 100

multiple choice self-descriptive statements which the subject

uses to present a picture of himself. It is applicable to

11

12

the whole range of psychological adjustment from healthy,

well adjusted people to psychotic patients. A sample of an

item is as follows: "I have a healthy body." The subject

then circled a number from 1 to 5 on the hand scored answer

sheet indicating her choice, from complete disagreement with

the statement to complete agreement with the statement.

Content validity for this scale was obtained by requir-

ing unanimous agreement by seven clinical psychologists

who judged whether or not an item was suitable and then

whether or not it was positive or negative in content. Re-

liability coefficients for the five self-concept variables

are defensive positive, .90; general maladjustment, .87',

psychotic, .92; personality disorder, .39; and neurotic, .91

(2, p. 14).

Measure of Clothing Interest

The interest scale from the Aiken Clothing Opinionnaire,

developed by Lewis R. Aiken, consists of seven true-false

statements describing the subjects attitudes toward clothing.

A sample of an item is as follows: nI spend quite a bit of

time reading about styles and fashions in magazines and news-

papers,," The subject then either circled true or false on

the hand scored test and answer sheet.

13

The 33 items comprising the entire Aiken Clothing

Opinionnaire were the results of factor analysis of an eighty-

item pilot study scale. Test re-test reliabilities of the

opinionnaire were all above .SO (1, p. 119).

The data gathering procedure began with a dismissal of

the male students in each class. Then the women were given

a few brief introductory remarks to establish rapport. These

statements were to the effect that "Even though most of the

top designers in women's fashions were men, it was neverthe-

less women who purchased women's clothing, and a study was

being conducted to ascertain what factors were important in

a woman's selection of her wardrobe."

Procedure

After this introduction, the clothing opinionnaire was

administered and followed by the self-concept scale. Both

of these scales are self-administering in either individual

or group situations. If any questions arose after the data

gathering was completed, they were answered as fully as pos-

sible by the investigator.

Statistical Treatment of Data

The interest and self-concept variable scores were given

two different types of statistical treatment-—Pearson product

moment correlation and analysis of variance. This was done to

14

lessen the chance that a possibly significant relationship

might not be indicated due to limitations of any one given

statistical technique. Significance for each hypothesis was

set at the .05 level of probability.

CHAPTER BIBLIOGRAPHY

1. Aiken, Jr., Lewis R.', "The Relationships of Dress to Selected Measures of Personality in Undergraduate Women," Journal of Social Psychology, LII (February, 1963),-119-12§7

2. Fitts, William H., The Tennessee Self-Concept Scale, Nashville, Counselor Recordings and Tests, 1956.

If

CHAPTER III

RESULTS

As stated in Chapter I, the following hypotheses were

formulated for investigation:

1. There will be a significantly positive relation-

ship between the degree of clothing interest as; measured by

the Aiken Clothing Opinionnaire and the magnitude of defensive

positiveness as measured by the Tennessee Self-Concept.Scale.



Aiken Clothing Opinionnaire and the magnitude of general

maladjustment as measured by the Tennessee Self-Concept Scale.

3. There will be a significantly negative relationship


Aiken Clothiag Opinionnaire and the severity of psychosis as


h. There will be a significantly positive relationship


Aiken Clothing Opinionnaire and the severity of personality

disorder as measured by the Tennessee Self-Concept Scale.


between the degree of clothing interest as measured by the 16

17 •

Aiken Clothing Opinionnaire and the severity of neurosis as


These hypotheses were examined as null hypotheses using a

Pearson coefficient to establish degree of correlation and

analysis of variance to determine if any significant mean

differences occured in any of the personality variable scores.

The results of the correlational analysis appear in

Table I. The low nature of the correlations between variable 1

TABLE I

CORRELATION COEFFICIENT AND LEVELS OF SIGNIFICANCE FOR CLOTHING INTEREST AND SELF-CONCEPT VARIABLES

1 2 3 4 5 6

1. Clothing Interest — .12 .19 -.05 -.03 -.01

2. Neurosis - - .15 .38** ' -.33** .15

3. Personality Disorder • _ .01 .11 -.11

4. Defensive Positive - - - -.42** .42**

,5. General Maladjust-ment . mm . -.32**

6. Psychosis - - - - _

Means and standard deviations of all variables appear in Table II.

**Inner test relationships of .01 between the sub-tests of the Tennessee Self-Concept Scale

18

(clothing interest) and the remaining five variables (the

self-concept scale) readily indicate that there are no sig-

nificant relationships between any of these variables. Des-

pite the fact that the relationship between clothing interest

and personality disorder did not attain the .05 level of

significance (.197), it did achieve an r of .187. The highest

correlation, instead of existing in the predicted direction,

actually occurred between the different self-concept scales.

As a consequence, none of the hypotheses postulating relation-

ships between clothing interest and self-concept were supported.

To examine further these relationships, the data were re-

organized for analysis of variance treatment. The 100 subjects

were divided into three groups, the upper 25 percent, the mid-

dle 50 percent, and the lower 25 percent, according to scores

on the clothing interest opinionnaire. The results of the anal-

ysis of variance and t-tests appear in Tables II and III.

In examining these tables, it becomes readily apparent

that the only significant differences occurred between clothing

interest group means themselves the basis upon which the three

groups were constituted. The top row of figures in Table II

•represents a comparison between the means and standard devi-

ations of the lower 25 percent clothing interest group (M=.71s

SB".45) and the middle 50 percent clothing interest group

(M-3.35, SD-1.07) yielding a t-value of -11.25, which Is

19

significant at less than the .001 level of probability. Simi-

larly, the first row of figures in the middle section of Table

II represents a comparison between the means and standard

deviations of the lower 25 percent clothing interest group

(M=.7-lj SD=.45) and the upper 25 percent clothing interest

group (M^6.20, 3D=.40) yielding a t-value of -15.20, which is

significant at less than the .001 level of probability. Finally,

the first row of figures in the bottom section of Table II

represent the means and standard deviations of the middle

50 percent clothing interest group (M~3.55> SD=1.07) and the

upper 25 percent clothing interest group (M=6.20, SD̂ ./j-O)

yielding a t-value cf -S.9S, which is significant at less

than the .001 level of probability. By then looking at the

top row of figures on Table III, it can be seen that the

variation between the three clothing interest groups is 109.91.

This variation of 109^91 has an F-value of 124.64, which is

significant at less than the .01 level of probability. Even

though this difference was not critically related to the

hypothesized differences between clothing interest and self-

concept, it did demonstrate, as one would anticipate,, that

there 'were significant differences among the three categories

of subjects.

Following the aDOve procedure for examining Tables II and

III it can be seen that none of the hypothesized differences

21

TABLE II —Continued

SD t P .L

1 . 0 7 •11.25 < .001 5 .68 1 .04 > . 1 7 . 8 2 1 .26 > . 1

12 .83 .43 > . 1

4 . 8 1 .87 > . 1

8 .92 4 .74 > . I

SD t P

.40 [•15.20 < .001 2 . 3 7 4 .70 > - 1

2 .87 4 .75 > . 1 •

9 . 0 8 4 O

-P- > . 1

7 .08 .73 > . 1

11 .48 h . 00

H A

/ \

SD .,U.~

t P

.40

1 J - 8 .98 < .001

2 .37 - .04 > . 1 2 .87 .08 > . 1

9.08

7.08

11.48

o n (

.19

.54

.±-

> .1

TABLE III

SUMMARY OF ANALYSIS OF VARIANCE BETWEEN CLOTHING INTEREST AND SELF-CONCEPT VARIABLES

22

Source of Variation SS df Variance F

Variable 1 Between Within Total

219.82, 85.54

305.36

2. 97. 99.

109.91 .88

124.64*


36.31 3108.20 3144.51

2. 97. 99.

•18.16 32.04

.57

Variable .3 Between Within T otal

96.74 5832.82 5929.56

2, 97. 99.

48.37 60.13

.80


37.84 13558.91 13596.75

2. 97. 99.

18.92 139.78

.14


25.50 2832.94 2858.44

2. 97. 99.

12.75 29.21

. 44


58.35 7750.16 7808.51

2. 97. 99.

29.18 79.90

.37

**Intergroup variation significant at .01 level of proba-bility.

23

between the variables reached the required level of signifi-

cance. As found in the above correlational treatment of the

data, the analysis of variance treatment also failed to sup-

port the five hypotheses for which this study 'was designed.

Discussion

The results of this study can be related, but not con-

clusively, to the findings of those studies involving cloth-

ing choice and personality. Since no significant relationship,

either positive or negative, was found to exist between

clothing interest and self-concept in the present study, it

neither substantiated or refuted the research of Silverman,

Stepat, or Aiken.

One possible explanation for the absence of a significant

relationship between interest in clothing and personality

variables may be cultural in origin. Conformity to modes

of dress is such a universal characteristic within a culture

that the adoption of current fashions among women may cut

across personality variables to the extent that a multi-

plexity of personality adjustments may be found among women

wearing similar garments. If such is the case, studies

reporting observable relationships between personality factors

and interest in clothing may reflect "accidental" relation-

ships rather than a "real" relationship between these variables,

24

Also, a self report may not be sensitive enough to

pick up significant differences in clothing interest in view

of the fact that a person having an excessive interest in

clothing might not consider his interest excessive at all.

As a consequence, he may report himself as only moderately

interested in clothing. One solution to this problem might

be to design an instrument that could tap this variable with-

out the subject being consciously aware of the psychological

implication of his responses.

Since both of the instruments employed in this study have

good reliability and validity and since the subjects were

comparable with those used in other studies, it is highly

probable that neither of these factors is responsible for the

present inconclusive findings. However, the decision to use

the clothing variable of interest rather than another clothing

variable which involves more ego involvement or readily

observable commitment such as conformity or economy, could

very possibly have affected the outcome of the study. If

this assumption could be. accepted as having some basis in

fact, ohen it is quite probable that a replication cf this

study using an ego involved variable like conformity would

produce results of a more definite nature.

25

j Recommendations For Future Research

Since it is now possible to look at this study with

hindsight, four changes should definitely be incorporated

into its design. First, the entire Aiken Clothing Opinion-

naire should be scored and analyzed to increase the probabil-

ity of finding more variables with greater Ego involvement

!

and to allow for the examination of previously unstated variable

relationships. Second, the subject range could be modified

to icon'urol variation in age, educational background, and |

genjeral experience. Third, a measure of socio-economic fac-

tors should be included to further examine the influence of

uncontrolled social variables and to generalize the findings

to a:larger population. Fourth, the number of subjects should

be increased to allow for more meaningful generalizations of

the findings.

CHAPTER IV

SUMMARY

One hundred female undergraduate students from education,

physical education, and psychology classes were given the

Tennessee Self-Concept Scale and the interest scale from the

Aiken Clothing Opinionnaire. The Clinical and Research Form

of the Tennessee Self-Concept Scale consists of 100 multiple

choice self-descriptive statements which the subject uses

t/o present a picture of himself. Content validity for this

scale was obtained by requiring unanimous agreement by sev-

eral clinical psychologists who judged whether or not an

item was suitable and then whether or not it was positive

or negative in content. Reliability coefficients for the

five self-concept variables are defensive positive, .90;

general maladjustment, .3?; psychotic, .92; personality

disorder, .39; and neurotic, .91. The interest scale from

the Aiken Clothing Opinionnaire consists of the true-false

statements describing the subject's attitudes toward clothing.

The 33 items comprising the opinionnaire were the results of

factor analysis of an eighty-itern pilot study scale. Test-

retest reliabilities of the opinionnaire were all above .80.

2 6 • "

27

It was hypothesized that there would be significant re-

lationships at less than the ,05 level between (1) high

scores on clothing interest and high scores on defensive

positiveness, (2) high scores on clothing interest and

high scores on general maladjustment, (3) low scores on

clothing interest and high scores on psychosis, (4) high

scores on clothing interest and high scores on personality

disorder, and (5) high scores on clothing interest and high

scores on neurosis.

The clothing interest and self-concept variables were

analyzed by simple correlation and analysis of variance.

None of the relationships were found to be significant at

the .05 level. While the relationship between clothing

interest and personality disorder on the self-concept scale

did not* attain the .05 level of significance, which was an

r of .197', it did achieve an r of . 1$7. Three sources of

influence were discussed as possible explanations for failure

to obtain adequate support for the hypotheses. The first of

these was related to conformity in modes of dress within a

culture as being sufficiently strong to cut across personality

variables. The second questioned the sensitivity of a self-

report technique as being adequate to detect significant dif-

ferences in clothing interest. The third considered the

o d-<CO

wisdom of selecting a technique for measuring clothing inter

est that may elicit a low degree of ego-involvement. If it

is possible to design a measure of clothing interest that

could tap this variable without the subject being con-

sciously aware, it is quite probable that a replication of

this study using variables that would assess a greater de-

gree of ego involvement may produce results of a more defin-

ite nature.

APPENDIX I

AIKEN CLOTHING OPINIONNAIRE

Your answers to the following statements are strictly con-fidential and will not affect your grades or academic life In any way. We are interested in doing some research on the psychology of clothing, and we ask your cooperation in mak-ing this effort worthwhile.

Directions: Each of tne statements on this opinionnaire expresses the opinion or behavior of a particular person in regard to the selection and use of women's clothing. If the statement is true, or mostly true, about you, please encircle the letter "T" after the statement; if the state-ment is false, or mostly false, about you, please encircle the letter "F" after the statement.

1. I like close-fitting, figure-revealing dresses. T F

2. I try to choose dresses "which are like those which most women are currently wearing. T F

3. 1 approve of the Bikini bathing suit and - wouldn't mind wearing one myself. T F

-4. I like to "dress up," and I usually spend a lot of time doing so. T F

5. I usually dress for warmth rather than for fashion. • T F

6. When buying a dress, I am more interested in practicality than beauty. T F

7. I see nothing wrong with wearing dresses which have plunging necklines. T F

* Items comprising the clothing interest scale

29

30

S. When shopping, I look around quite a bit to make certain that I get the best article of clothing at the lowest price. T F

9. I don't like to wear "trinkets" such as ear-rings, necklaces, bracelets, and other jewelry. ' T F

10. A new pair of shoes makes me feel like a new

person. T F

11. The men whom I know always notice what I wear. T F

12. It is very important to be in style T F

13. There is nothing like a new hat to improve my morale. T p

14." I think that most men "notice" what a woman is wearing. - T F

*15. I plan what I am going to wear at least a day Or two in advance. T F

16. t like to try out new "effects" in my cloth-ing which others will admire and envy. T F

i

17. t usually mend my own clothes. T F J

15. l think that women dress primarily for men '-ather than for other women. T F

19. 1 buy dresses for comfort rather than ap-pearance . T F

20. I try to choose dresses which are different from those which most- women are currently Rearing. T F

21. | like to feel that my clothes are support-ing me or holding me up. T F

j

* Iterjis comprising the clothing interest scale

31

22. I think that most women tend to wear too many-clothes. T F

23. In choosing my clothes, I try to buy something that my parents approve of. T F

24. The ideal garment is one that is as simple as possible. T F

25. I usually buy my dresses at the end of the

season. T F

26. I like to make my own clothes. T F

*27. If I had more money I would spend it on clothes.. T F

2$. I think that a woman should become more con-servative in her dress after she marries. T F

*29. I should love to be a dress designer. T F

30. I have bought a lot of dresses in the last year. T F

*31. I should love to be a fashion model. T F

*32. I spend quite a bit of time reading about styles and fashions in magazines and news-papers. T F

*33. I usually buy my dresses at the beginning of the season. T F

* Items comprising the clothing interest scale

APPENDIX II

p? Lj

»v

LliL P SQ f? f? j t) y ka

(Department of Menta l Health)

f8!

f /11 i ! 1 n m M I I # SM fti B *.? d*

y j m y y y * y J uL u 11 I y] .

Box 6184

Published by

Counselor Recordings and Tests

Ack lsn Station Ncshvi.He, Tsnnesse;

32 37212

33

INSTRUCTIONS

responses

On the top l ine of the separate answer sheet, f i i l in your name and ine other information except for the time information in the last three boxes. You w i l l f i l l these boxes in later. Wri te only on the answer sheet. Do not put any marks in this booklet .

The statements in this booklet are to help you describe yourself as you see yourself. Please respond to them as i f you were describing yourself to yourself. Do not omit any item! Read each statement careful ly ; then select one c f the f ive

listed below. On your answer sheet, put a c i rc le around the response you chose. I f you want to change an answer after you have c i rc led i t , do not erase i t but put an mark through the response and then circIe the response you want .

When you are ready to start, f ind the box on your answer sheet marked time started and record the t ime. When you are finished, record the time finished in the box on your answer sheet marked time finished.

As you start, be sure that your answer sheet end this booklet are l ined up evenly so that the item numbers match each other.

Remember, put a c i rc le around the response number you have chosen for each statement. i

Responses-Completely

false Mostly false

Partly false and

partly true

Mostly true

Completely true

1 2 3 4 5

You wit I f ind these response numbers repeated at the bottom of each page to help you remember them.

© WHi!cm H . Fitrs, 1964

34 q i T11 em PAGE I NO.

I , I have a healthy body 1

3 . I am an attract ive person 3

5 . I consider myself a sloppy person ^

19. I am a decent sort of person ^

21. I am an honest person 21

23. I am a bad person 23

37. I am a cheerful person 37

39. I am a calm and easy going person 39

41. I am a nobody 41.

55. I have a family that would always help me in any kind of trouble 55

57. I am a member of a happy family 57

59. My friends have no confidence in me 59

73. 1 am a friendly person 73

75. I am popular wi th men 75

77. I am not interested in what other people do 77

91 . I do not always tel l the truth 91

93. I get angry sometimes 93

Completely Mostly Partly false Mostly Completely Responses- false false and true true

partly true

1 2 3 4 5

3 5

Item Page 2 No,

2 . I l ike to look nice and neat a!! the t ime. . . 2

4 . 1 am ful l of aches and pains . 4

6 . I am a sick person ^

20 20. 1 am a religious person

22. I am a moral fai lure 22

24. I am a morally weak person 24

38. I have a iot of self-control

40. I am a hateful person ^

42 . I am losing my mind ^

56. I am an important person to my friends and family 56

58. I am not loved by my family 58

60. I feel that my family doesn't trust me 60

74. I am popular wi th women 74

76. I am mad at the whole wor ld . 76

78. I am hard to be fr iendly wi th 78

92. Once in a whi le I think of things too bad to talk about 92

94. Sometimes, when I am not feeling we 11, I am cross . 94

Completely Mostly Partly false Mostly Completely Responses- false false and true true

part ly true

1 2 3 4 5

3 6 n n I t 6IH Page 3 No.

11

25

27

7 . 1 am neither too fat nor too thin

9 . I l ike my looks just the way they are ^

1 1 . 1 would l ike to change some parts of my body

25. I am satisfied wi th my moral behavior

27. I am satisfied w i th my relationship to God

29. I ought to go to church more 29

43. I am satisfied to be just what I am ^

45. I am just as nice as I should be ^

47 47. I despise myself

61 . I am satisfied wi th my family relationships 61

63. I understand my family as wel l as i should ^

c c 65. I should trust my family more

79. I am as sociable as I want to be 79

81 . I try to please others, but I don' t overdo i t

83. I am no good at a l l from a social standpoint

95. I do not l ike everyone I know ^

97. Once in a wh i le , I laugh at a dir ty joke 97

Completely Mostly Partly false Mostly Completeiy Responses- false false and true true

part ly true

1 2 3 4 5

37 _ . Item Page 4 No.

8. ! am neither too ta l l nor too short 8

10. I don't feel as wel l as 1 should. . 10

12. I should have more sex appeal 12

26. ! am as religious as I want to be 26

28. I wish I could be more trustworthy 28

30. I shouldn't te l l so many lies 30

44. 1 am as smart as I want to be 44

46. I am not the person I would l ike to be 46

48. 1 wish 1 d idn ' t give up as easily as I do 48

62. I treat my parents as wel l as I should (Use past tense i f parents are not l i v i ng ) . 62

64. I am too sensitive to things my family say 64

66. I should love my family more 66

80. I am satisfied w i th the way I treat other people 80

82. 1 should be more pol i te to others 82

84. I ought to get along better w i th other people 84

96. 1 gossip a l i t t l e at times 96

98. At times I feel l ike swearing 98

Completely Mostly Partly false Mostly Completely Responses - false false and true true

part ly true

1 2 3 4 5

3 3

15.

17.

31 .

33.

35 .

49 .

51

53 .

67 .

69 .

71 .

85.

87.

89 .

99 .

Page 5 Item No.

13. 1 take good care of myself physical ly

t ry to be careful about my appearance 15

of ten act l i ke I am "a l l thumbs" ^

am true to my re l ig ion in my everyday l i fe 31

try to change when I know I'm doing things that are wrong 33

sometimes do very bad things 35

can always take care o f myself in any si tuat ion 49

take the blame for things wi thout get t ing mad 51

do things w i thout th ink ing about them f i rst . 53

try to play fa i r w i th my friends and fami ly 67

take a real interest in my fami ly . 69

g ive in to my parents. (Use past tense i f parents are not l i v ing) ^

t ry to understand the other fe l low's point o f v iew 85

get along we l l w i th other people 87

do not forgive others easi ly . 89

would rather w in than lose in a game ^

Responses Complete ly

false Most ly false

Partly fal se and

part ly true

Most ly true

Completely

true

39 Page 6

I tec. No.

14.

16.

18.

32.

34.

36.

50.

52.

54.

68.

70.

72.

86.

88.

feel good most o f the time • 14

do poorly in sports and games

am a poor sleeper

16

18

do what is right most of the time

sometimes use unfair means to get ahead

have trouble doing the things that are right

solve my problems quite easily

34

36

50

change my mind a lot 52

try to run away from my problems 54

do my share of work at home 68

quarrel w i th my family 70

do not act l ike my family thinks 1 should

see good points in a l l the people I meet

' 72

86

do not feel at ease w i th other people

90. I f ind i t hard to talk wi th strangers

88

90

100. Once in a whi le I put of f unt i l tomorrow what 1 ought to do today 100

Responses-Completely

false Mostly Partly false false and

partly true

2 3

Mostly Completely true true

BIBLIOGRAPHY

Books

Fitts, William H., The Tennessee Self-Concept Scale, Nashville, Counselor Recordings and Tests, 1956.

Jung, Carl G., The Undiscovered Self, Boston, Little, Brown and Company, 195$.

Moustakas, Clark E., The Self: Explorations in Personal Growth, New York, Harper and Brothers, 1956.

Packard, Vance, The Status Seekers, New York, Pocket Books, Inc., 1965 *

Articles

Aiken, Jr., Lewis R., "The Relationships of Dress to Selected Measures of Personality in Undergraduate Women,'' Jour-

Social Psychology, LIX (February, 1963), 119-12$.: " ' *

Barber, Bernard and Lobel, Lyle S., "Fashion in Women's Clothes and the American Social System," Social Forces, XXXI (December, 1952), -124-131. "

Barr, De Y., "A Psychological Analysis of Fashion Motivation Archive_s of Psychology, CLXJI, 1934.

tt

BrovvTif airj;, John J. , "Stability of the Self-Concept as a Dimension of Personality," Journal of Abnormal and Social Psychology, XXXXVII (July, 195~2) f~597-606. . ~ ~~

Bush, George and London, Ferry," On the Disappearance of Knickers: Hypotheses for the Functional Analysis of the iPsychology of Clothing," Journal of Social Psychology, LI (May, I960), 359-366.

Jacobi, John E. and Walters, S. C-eorge, "Social Status and Consumer Choice," Social Forces, XXVI (March, 195$), 209-214. •

40

41 .

Mitchell, James V., Jr., "'Goal Setting Behavior as Function of S$lf-Acceptance, Over- and Under-Achievement and Related Personality Variables," Journal of Educational ' Psychology, L (June, 1959), 93-104.

Stepat, Dt L., "A Study of Clothing and Appearance Problems in Relation to Some Aspects of Personality and Some Cultural Patterns in a Group of College Freshman Girls," Microfilm Abstracts, X, 1950.

Taylor, Charles and Combs, Authur "Self Acceptance and Adjustment," Journal of Consulting Psychology, XVI (February, 1952), 89-91.

Reports

Silverman, S. S., "Clothing and Appearance, Their Psychologi-cal Meaning for Teenage Girls," New York, Bureau of Publications, Teachers College,- Columbia University, 1945 L

Unpublished Materials

Douty, Helen Irene, "The Influence of Clothing on Perceptions of Clothing on Perceptions of Persons in Single Contact Situations," Dissertation Abstracts, XXIII (April, 1963), 3882-3383. '

Gividen, G. M., "Stress in Airborne Training as Related to the Self-Concept, Motivation, and Biographical Factors," unpublished master's thesis, Vanderbilt University, 1959.

Hall, J. D., "An Investigation of Acquiescence Response Set. Extroversion, and Locus of Control as Related to Neu-roticism and Maladjustment," unpublished doctoral dissertation, George Peabody College, 1964.

Sundby, Ej. S., "A Study of Personality and Social Variables Related to•Conformity Behavior," unpublished doctoral dissertation, Vanderbilt University, 1953.

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