The Park Gardener s Handbook

Compiled from over 130 years of gardening experience

Half the fun is in the growing. Cokesbury Road Greenwood SC 29647-0001

Your Guide to Gardening PleasureCongratulations! You have just purchased the finest seeds that money can buy. To help you have success with Park seeds and to maximize your gardening pleasure, the people at Park wrote this handbook to share with you some of their know-how. This information comes from observations in Park greenhouses, trials, and gar-dens. We hope it will reward you with the growth of better tasting vegetables and lovelier flowers from seed.

2006 Park Seed Co.

Always Dependable

Since 1868

®

gardener's hndbk pg.01.indd 1 1/26/07 2:50:03 PM

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Sowing Outdoors Seeds that are very large or fast growing are commonly sown directly outdoors where they are to grow. Your seed packets and the Planting Guide in the back of this book give this informa-tion for each type.

Weather Watching The key to direct sowing is to pick the right weather. Study the climate in your area; fill in your Seasonal Benchmarks (Page 2) and find out approximately when you’ll need to sow each type of seed. Watch the weather reports and the sky for settled weather conditions, and plant promptly when proper conditions exist.

Seed Bed Preparation Prepare the seed bed by turning the soil over to a depth of 6-8 inches with a spade or spading fork. Break up clumps with a rake (a rototiller does this job well mechanically). Rake the surface as level as you can with a steel-tined garden rake. Shape and smooth your beds so there are no large clods or dips on the planting surface, which should be level. Firm down

the surface before planting. AVOID WALKING ON RAISED BEDS, as this results in over-compaction of the soil and hampers root develop-ment.

Sowing See your packet for detailed sowing instructions, which vary with each type of seed. Make a fur-row to the depth indicated on your seed packet. After sowing, fill in the furrow and firm down. EXCEPTION: Some smaller seeds such as lettuce prefer light to germinate and should barely be covered. This is noted on your seed packet.

Care After Sowing Until seeds have sprouted, keep the seed bed moist, never allowing it to dry out. Water with a fine-spray hose nozzle or watering can which will provide a fine misty spray and not wash away the soil. Water often enough (usually about once a day) so that the soil surface never dries out, but remains constantly moist. Covering the bed with Park’s Plant Protector helps in warming the soil and conserving moisture. In spring, when weather is favorable, keeping soil moist is easily done; but in summer, the beds need to be shaded or mulched to slow evapora-tion. As the seeds germinate, the seedlings may grow too close together. It is important that you thin them, according to the instructions on the seed packet. Do not be softhearted when it comes to thinning . . . too many plants too close together produce the same effect as a serious weed infesta-tion. Crops vary considerably in their requirements for nutrients and care; see Park’s Vegetable Growing tips (p. 14) for some information con-cerning fertilization. Mulching will save time and effort, conserve moisture, keep soil cooler, and keep down weeds.

Prepare seed bed by turning soil over to depth of 6 to 8 inches. Thinning results in stronger plants.

Don’t plow when soil is too wet. If soil does not crumble after squeezing, it is too wet.

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Sowing Perennials and Annuals Outdoors Many types of flowers are sown outdoors in fall or spring, when changing weather encourages germination. In the North, sow from early spring through summer. Allow at least 4 months from sowing till first killing frost, so plants will have time to grow big enough to endure winter weather. In the South, sow seeds that require cool germi-nation temperatures in spring or fall. Seeds sown in hot weather may need shading. If a cold frame is used, cover the sash with burlap. Build a frame over your seed bed to support shad-ing material like boards, burlap, or heavy cloth. Remove the shading material gradually as the seeds come up.

Perennials and Annuals for Fall Sowing Your packets will recommend certain types of seed for late fall sowing. The purpose of this is not to have the seed germinate in autumn, but rather to give the seed a cold period to make it ready to grow with the first favorable weather of spring. Plant slightly deeper than you would in spring. Protect the sides of the bed with boards to prevent seeds washing away. Apply a protective mulch as soon as the ground freezes. Ideal sowing time is just before this happens. From Philadelphia southward, flowers such as Larkspur may be sown in September so that the seeds will germinate in the fall. With a protective mulch applied after the ground freezes, they will live over winter and produce extra early, long-stemmed flower spikes. From Washington, D.C. southward, Sweetpeas can be handled this way.

From southern Virginia southward add Dianthus, Phlox, Poppy, Calendula, Alyssum, Nemophila, Candytuft, Eschscholtzia, Bachelor’s Buttons, Clarkia, Nierembergia, Gypsophila, and Nigella to the list.

Garden Care After your seedlings are up and established and your transplants have had a week or two to root in, you’ll receive your greatest reward from garden-ing — the time of bloom and harvest that you’ve been looking forward to. Here’s what you should do to make your garden flourish during this time.

Watering The best source of water for your garden is rain; as long as rain keeps your soil moist beneath its mulch, no irrigation is needed. An actively grow-ing garden requires at least 1 inch of rain per week; if such is lacking, or you see your plants wilt during the warmer part of the day, you probably need to irrigate. During the first 3 weeks after set-ting out, check soil moisture weekly. If the surface is dry beneath the mulch, dig down 6 inches with a trowel. If the soil is still dry at that depth, water your bed. Later in the season, after roots have reached deep into the soil, you need to water only if signs of wilting appear. Water deeply but not too frequently. Soak the garden for up to 4 hours at a time, letting water soak deep, then let upper soil layers dry out before watering again. This promotes deep root growth, more lasting beauty and better harvest from your plants, and helps retard weed growth. Several irrigation methods are effective. Ground watering, with trickle tubes or a carefully placed hose, soaks deep and avoids wetting foliage or

flowers (which often encourages disease), but these devices are sometimes hard to set up or move. Impulse jet sprinklers lay down a lot of water fast and are easy to move around, but can beat small or tender plants down. A fine spray sprinkler of the oscillating or whirling type is both gentle and easy to move, but slower.

Feeding Generally, yellowish (not brown or wilted) leaves and slow growth mean more nutrients are needed. For more details, see the Growing Tips at the end of this book, or talk to your local county extension agent.

Winter Care of Your GardenAnnuals After harvest is completed, remove dead leaves and other vegetative debris from your garden and add them to your compost pile. Leaving it in the garden can provide a handy over-wintering place for insect pests and diseases.

Applying sid-edressing of fertilizer, keeping 3 to 4 inches away from plants

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Perennials Hardy perennials can endure subfreezing tem-peratures well. However, alternate freezing and thawing can cause the ground to heave roots out, often resulting in loss of plants. After foliage has died back, cut off all dead leaves and stems and cover the plants to a depth of 6 inches. Straw, leaves, pine needles or any other coarse, light material is excellent for this. Place dead boughs over the mulch to hold it in place. This mulch-ing should be done AFTER THE GROUND HAS FROZEN in the North, or after the garden is cultivated in the South. A lasting snow cover is nature’s mulch.

Next Year’s GardenPlanning and Preparation There are some things that you should do at the end of this year’s garden in order to have an even better one next year. Be creative and plan ahead.

Location Give some thought to the size and location of your garden sites. Whatever your choices are, it’s wise to make them ahead of time. Plan for paths where you want to walk. Consider the type of plants you want, the conditions under which they thrive, and place your beds where the best com-bination of light, shade, moisture and drainage prevails. Choose the right plant for each location.

The density and time of shade cast by each object in your garden should be considered when you plan your plantings. Deciduous trees are most versatile, permitting plenty of light during the cool weather of early spring and fall, and providing mottled shade in summer. Evergreen trees and shrubs will provide year-round shade, its density depending on the branch-ing habit of the evergreen in question. Low walls and evergreen hedges provide a pat-tern of part-day shade and part-day sun, except to the south side where sun falls all day. Buildings and high walls are opaque to light, providing dense shade to the north and very hot, bright conditions to the south. A building may provide protection for tender plants in winter. Remember the sun rises about 30 degrees higher in summer than in winter. Observe how light falls in your yard over the course of a year, and plan your garden area to use this to advantage in each season.

Seasons Identify the average dates of Seasonal Benchmarks in your area, such as the last spring frost and the first fall frost. They are important to know so you can garden successfully. See page 2 for a handy chart.

Water Soil Soaker hoses or trickle irrigation dispense water to your plants most effectively and conserve water. Place your beds where a garden hose can reach from the faucet.

Tools Have them on hand when preparing beds and planting. When preparing beds: spade, spading fork and garden rake. When planting garden: rake, planting tool (trowel or short-handled hoe). For maintenance: a garden cart, hoe and pitchfork are handy.

Soil Preparation Good soil grows healthy plants! You should prepare your soil well ahead of planting time to provide the right texture and nutrition. We’ve had our best success preparing beds in fall, right after summer’s garden is finished and when cool, dry weather prevails. Roots like a soil that is spongy enough to hold moisture, but porous enough to provide air spaces and good drainage. The best way to give a soil this texture is by adding well-rotted organic material, as often as is practical. Good organics include peat moss, well-rotted manure and compost. Spread the organic material over your entire garden to a depth of several inches and mix it into your soil as deeply and thoroughly as you can.

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If your soil still seems heavy and forms sticky lumps when wet or hard clods when dry, mix in up to 2 inches of coarse sand as well as the organic material. Soils that are sandy and drain too quickly can be made more productive through liberal additions of organic material. After preparing your bed, cover with a deep mulch over winter to protect the soil texture and hold down spring weeds. With a raised bed pre-pared this way, we’re often able to plant straight into it in spring with no further tilling; just rake mulch off and plant.

Soil Amendments Plant growth is highly responsive to proper soil reaction (ph) and to ample supplies of nutrients, particularly Nitrogen (N), Phosphorus (P), and Potassium (K). Send samples of your soil to your local County Agricultural Extension Agent; for a very modest fee you will get excellent advice as to how to amend your soil for maximum productivity of the plants you want to grow. Lime sweetens soil if it is too acid, increasing the availability of nutri-ents. Sulphur reduces excess alkalinity. Fertilizer hastens and promotes growth. All should be used carefully, according to directions.

Compost Making You can make inexpensive, easy compost at home from leaves, grass clippings, garden wastes such as stalks and weeds, and vegetable leftovers (never meat!). Pile these together until well rot-ted. Use a compost tool to aerate the pile. You can enclose the pile with wire or with a ready-made compost bin. Keep adding organics until the size of the pile suits you, then start another one. Keep the pile moist but not soaking. The pile is

usually ready in about 6 months, or faster in warm weather. You’ll know it’s ready for the garden when its contents are dark and crumbly and look like woods soil. Our Customer Service Department will send you more information about composting on request.

Green Manure Crops Cover crops, turned back into the soil, are another means of adding organic matter, and thus improving soil texture. Also, as they decompose, they release nutrients. Fall-sown crops such as annual Ryegrass can be grown over winter and dug into the soil in early spring. Do this at least four weeks prior to garden planting. Other good winter cover crops include some legumes such as Winter Vetch, Crimson Clover and Austrian Winter Peas. Legumes have the advantage of adding more nitrogen to the soil. Be sure to till 8 weeks ahead of growing season so nitrogen is released, not tied up in the process of decomposing the cover crop.

Digging Proper digging, or tilling, mixes in organic mat-ter and helps to develop a deep, loose, mellow environment for plant roots. Small gardens can be turned with a spade or spading fork; a rototiller will greatly aid in preparing a larger garden. To be worked, a handful of soil should crumble when squeezed. Dig soil to a minimum of 6-8 inches deep. Initial “double-digging”, to 16 inches, is the ideal way to prepare a good garden . . . it breaks up compacted soil even below the reach of tiller tines and mixes subsoil and topsoil.

Raised Beds Raised beds make gardening easier! As you build up your soil by adding compost, the bed’s surface will rise above ground level. Surround such a bed with some material to hold the soil in place — you’ll have a raised bed. Common edging materials include: timbers, blocks, bricks, boards and rocks. Raising a bed makes soil deeper. It looks neat. And the edging keeps lawn grass and other weeds from invading the bed. Better drain-age permits earlier planting in spring.

Happy Gardening We hope that this booklet has provided you the information you need to have a successful and enjoyable garden. Other excellent sources of information include the book Park’s Success With Seeds (which gives even more in-depth instruc-tions) and your county extension agent. And, as a member of the Park family of gardeners, you’re invited to write or call our Customer Service Department at 800-845-3369 for more specific information.

Park Seed Co.Cokesbury Road

Greenwood, SC 29647-0001

Raised Bed

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Park’s Vegetable Growing TipsBean, Pole Snap Dust seed with Legume-Aid. Fertilize when planting and again when 6 to 8 inches tall. Train

on a trellis, tripod, fence or other support. Keep picked to encourage further production.

Bean, Bush Snap Dust seed with Legume-Aid. Fertilize at planting time and again when 6 to 8 inches tall. Keep picked to encourage further production.

Bean, Lima. Dust seed with Legume-Aid. Requires a longer, milder growing season than snap beans. Fertilize at planting time and again when plants are 6 to 8 inches tall.

Beet Thin soon after germination. Fertilize at sowing time and again when leaves are 3 to 4 inches tall. Dig when roots are 2 to 3 inches in diameter for best flavor. Tops are also edible.

Broccoli Set plants slightly deeper in garden than in container. Side-dress with fertilizer as buds begin to form. Harvest while heads are still tight.

Brussels Sprouts Does best as fall crop in warm climates. Cold tolerant. Break off lower branches as sprouts begin to form to encourage buds. As older sprouts are harvested (from the bottom up) and new ones form, break off more branches. Frost improves flavor.

Cabbage Set plants slightly deeper in garden than in container. Fertilize at setting out, and side-dress 4 weeks later. Harvest when heads are still tight.

Cabbage, Chinese See Cabbage. Heads grow more upright and cylindrical than regular cabbage. Excellent eaten cooked or raw in salads.

Carrot For best carrots, soil should be loose textured and cultivated deeply — otherwise grow round and short-rooted types. After germination, thin seedlings well. Fertilize when foliage is 6 to 8 inches high. Harvest when between finger thickness and 2 inches in diameter.

Cauliflower See Cabbage. Blanch by tying outer leaves over heads when they are 2 inches across.

Celery Requires cool growing season and rich, moist soil. Set plant in a trench 4 to 5 inches deep and fill in with soil as plant grows. If further blanching (whitening) is desired, hill plants by mounding additional soil around their bases. Apply soluble plant food every 2 to 3 weeks.

Collards Sow directly outdoors in early spring or in late summer for the fall garden. Can also be sown indoors in mid to late winter for transplanting outdoors in early spring. Especially good as fall crop since frost will improve flavor. Withstands both cold and hot weather. Fertilize at planting time. Harvest entire plant or pick leaves as needed.

Corn, Sweet To ensure pollination, plant several rows together in a block, rather than in 1 long row. Side-dress with fertilizer when 8 inches high. Keep well-watered, especially from tasseling time to picking. Hill corn plants by pushing a few inches of soil up around the base of the plants when they are fertilized. This provides stability, but take care not to disturb the roots. Do not remove suckers. Regular sweet corn, super-sweet, sugar-enhanced, and popcorn should be isolated from each other to prevent cross-pollination.

(Spring Directly Indoors Space Space Days Yield per or Fall (Summer Sown in for 25 feet Sowing Between Between to 25 feet Crop Gardens) Gardens) Ground Transplant of Row Depth Plants Rows Maturity of Row Beans Pole Snap 3 3 2 oz. 1 in. 4 in. 36 in. 60-70 30-40 lbs. Beans Bush Snap 3 3 2 oz. 1 in. 3 in. 24 in. 50-70 20-30 lbs. Beans Bush Lima 3 3 4 oz. 1 in. 3 in. 24 in. 65-90 6 lbs. shelled Beets 3 3 1/4 oz. 1/2 in. 4 in. 12 in. 50-70 25-30 lbs. Broccoli 3 3 3 15 plants 1/4 in. 18 in. 24 in. † 50-80 12-20 lbs. Brussels Sprouts 3 3 3 15 plants 1/4 in. 18 in. 24 in. † 85-95 12-35 lbs. Cabbage 3 3 3 15 plants 1/4 in. 18 in. 24 in. † 50-100 35-38 lbs. Cabbage, Chinese 3 3 3 20 plants 1/4 in. 15 in. 20 in. † 60-90 20 heads Carrots 3 3 1/16 in. 1/8 in. 3 in. 12 in. 62-90 20-25 lbs. Cauliflower 3 3 3 15 plants 1/4 in. 18 in. 24 in. † 60-80 20-25 lbs. Celery 3 3 25 plants 1/4 in. 12 in. 18 in. † 120 30 lbs. Collards 3 3 3 1/8 oz. 1/2 in. 18 in. 24 in. 55-80 30 lbs. Corn, Sweet 3 3 1 oz 1 in. 5-10 in. 30 in. 60-100 30-40 ears Cucumber 3 3 3 30 seed 1 in. *12 in. 48 in. 50-70 30 lbs. Eggplant 3 3 15 plants 1/4 in. 18 in. 24 in. † 62-90 25 lbs. Kale 3 3 1/16 oz. 1/4 in. 10 in. 24 in. 50-65 30 lbs. Lettuce, Head 3 3 3 1/8 oz. 1/8 in. 8 in. 18 in. 57-80 20-25 heads Lettuce, Leaf 3 3 1/8 oz. 1/8 in. 3 in. 12 in. 40-58 12 lbs. Melons 3 3 3 30 seed 1/2 in. *18 in. 48 in. 75-110 12-20 fruit Okra 3 3 1/2 oz. 3/4 in. 12 in. 30 in. 50-75 25 lbs. Onions 3 3 3 1/8 oz. 1/4 in. 4 in. 12 in. 75-150 15-20 lbs. Peas, Garden 3 3 2 oz. 1 in. 2 in. 24 in. 50-80 6-10 lbs. shelled Peppers 3 3 15 plants 1/4 in. 18 in. 24 in. †60-100 15 lbs. Pumpkins 3 3 3 20 seed 1 in. *24 in. 60 in. 50-75 25 lbs. Radishes 3 3 1/4 oz. 1/4 in. 1 in. 12 in. 25-35 25 bunches Soybeans 3 3 2 oz. 1 in. 3 in. 24 in. 80-115 12-15 lbs. Spinach 3 3 1/4 oz. 1/2 in. 4 in. 15 in. 40-50 14 lbs. Squash, Summer 3 3 3 20 seed 1 in. *24 in. 48 in. 50-70 20-25 lbs. Squash, Winter 3 3 3 20 seed 1 in. *30 in. 60 in. 85-120 75-100 lbs. Tomatoes 3 3 12 plants 1/4 in. 24 in. 36 in. †53-90 37-63 lbs. Turnips 3 3 1/16 oz. 1/4 in. 3 in. 12 in. 35-60 25-28 lbs. Watermelons 3 3 3 30 seed 1 in. *24 in. 48 in. 75-100 10 fruit

Park’s Vegetable Planting Guide

* Can also sow 3-5 seeds in hills 4 feet apart (6 feet for pumpkins) and thin to 2-3 per hill. † Days from setting out.

Cucumber Sowinrowsorinhills,3to4feetapartwith3plantsperhill,orstartastransplantsinJiffyPots2weeksbeforesettingoutsideforanearlycrop.Fertilizeatplantingtime.Keepwell-wateredandcultivatecarefully.Harvestwhenyoungandgreen;iftheyareallowedtomature(andturnyellow),theplantwillstopproducing.

Eggplant Easily damaged by cold temperatures. Fertilize at planting time and when fruits start to form.Harvestwhenrelativelyyoungandskinsareveryshiny.

Kale SeeCollards.Kaledoesnottoleratesummerheat,butisextremelycold-tolerant.

Lettuce,Head Sowdirectlyinthegarden,orindoorsfortransplants.Whentransplanting,minimizeshockbypinch-ingor removing larger leaves.Fertilizeatplanting time,andagain4weeks later.Harvestwhencentersarefirm.

Lettuce,Leaf Fertilizeatplantingtimeandagain4weekslater.Harvestentireplantorpickoutsideleaveswhenready;newoneswillformfromthecenter.

Melon SeeCucumber.Keepwell-wateredwhengrowing,butonthedrysidewhenripening.Cantaloupes(Muskmelons)arereadywhenthestemslipseasilyfromthemelonwithslightpressure.HoneydewsandsomeCantaloupesturnpaleyellowortanwhenripe.

Okra Likesalong,warmgrowingseason.Mayneedtosowindoors4to6weeksbeforeplantingoutdoorsfornorthernareas.Fertilizeatplanting time,andagainwhen12 inches tall.Harvestpodswhenyoungandtender(3to4incheslong).Donotallowpodstomatureorplantswillceaseproduction.

Onion Canalsobeplantedfromsetsortransplants.Fertilizeatsowingtime.Usethinningsforgreenonions.Whentopsfall,pullonionsandallowtodrybeforestoring.InZone8andfurthersouth,maybesownoutdoorsinfallforspringharvest.

Pea,Garden DustwithLegume-Aidbeforesowing.Planttallervarietiesinadoublerowflankingatrellis,with30 inchesbetweeneachdouble row.Peas fresh from thegardenhaveexceptional flavor.Harvestedible-poddedtypeswhenyoung,beforeseedsformfully.Fertilizeatplantingtime.

Pepper Fertilizelightlyatplantingtimeandagainlightlyafter6weeks.Avoidheavyapplicationsoffertil-izer. Peppers can be harvested when mature and red or yellow, but are most often picked whengreen,assoonasthefruitisfirm.

Pumpkin See Cucumber. Allow more space for pumpkins than for cucumbers or melons. When the desirednumberof fruithasset,endofvinecanbepinchedoff topreventadditional fruitproductionandencouragelargefruitsize.Harvestwhenrindishardenoughitcan’tbepenetratedwithafinger-nail.

Radish Harvestwhencrispandmild(beforerootsbecomepithy).Excellenttointerplantwithslowergermi-natingcropstomarkrows.

Soybean DustseedwithLegume-Aidbeforesowing.Fertilizeatplantingtimeandagainwhenplantsare8to10incheshigh.Soybeansrequirealong,warmgrowingseason.Harvestimmaturebeanswhenpodsareplumpandseedsarefullsizebutstillgreen,orfordryuse,pickwhenfullymature.

Spinach Doeswellincoolweather.Soilshouldbekeptmoist.BestinsoilofnearlyneutralpH.

Squash,Summer SeeCucumber.Ifplantinginhills,spacehills4feetapartandthinto2plantsperhill.Pickfruitwhensmall(4to6inches)forbestflavorandcontinuedproduction.

Squash,Winter SeeCucumber.Ifplantinginhills,spacehills4to6feetapart,andthinto2plantsperhill.Harvestafter vinesdieor justbefore frost,when skin is tough.Cut squash, leaving2 to3 inchesof stemattachedtofruitandallowtocurewithplentyofaircirculationbeforestoringunderlowhumidityat50to55°F.

Tomato Setplantsdeeper than in theoriginal container.Tallor leggyplants canbeplantedby strippingawayall but the top leaves, and laying theplanthorizontally ina shallow trough,withonly theupperleavesabovethesoil.Mulch,afterthesoilhaswarmed,tomaintainevensoiltemperatureandmoisture.Alightside-dressingoffertilizermaybeappliedwhenfirstblossomsappear.Soilshouldbewell-limedbeforeplanting—thisandevenmoisturelevelswillhelppreventBlossom-EndRot.Avoid use of tobacco products near tomatoes. Select varieties with genetic resistance to disease.Harvestwhen redand juicy.Atendof season,pickgreen tomatoesbefore frost,wrap ina singlelayerofnewspaperandbringindoorstoripen.

Turnip Fertilizeatplantingtimeandagainwhenplantsare4inchestall.Keepwell-watered.Harvestwhenrootsare2to3inchesacross.Leavesarealsohighlyediblewhenyoung.

Watermelon SeeCucumber.Ifgrowninhills,spacehills4to6feetapartandthinto2plantsperhill.Keepwell-wateredwhengrowing,buton thedry sidewhen fruit is ripening.Several clues indicate ripeness—thumpingonthesideofthefruitshouldproduceadullratherthanasharpsound;thesideofthefruittouchingthegroundwillturnfromwhiteorlightyellowtogold,andthetendrilnexttothepointofattachmentofstemandvinewillturnbrownanddie.Seedlesswatermelonsrequirespecialcareforgoodgermination.Theyusuallydobestsownindoorsandsetoutsoonaftergermination.Thisallowscontrolofmoistureandtemperature levels.Toavoiddisturbing theroots, sowseeds in individualJiffyPotsorJiffy7’s.Avoidexcesswaterduringgermination.Allowsowingmediumtodrainfor24hoursbeforesowingandaftersowing,coverwithclearplastictoavoidhavingtorewater.Maintainawarmtemperature;85°Fisbestduringgermination,droppedto75°Faftergrowthemerges.Setoutafter1to2trueleavesappear.

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Annualor BestUses Willitgrowand Direct Perennial Plant (ProvidedbyvarietiesName bloominmyyard? Sow (Hardy) Spacing inthiscatalog)Achimenes Warmsummer,shade,rich,well-drainedsoil Annual 12in. PatiocontainersandhangingbasketsAgeratum Warmsummer,fullsun,quicktobloom Annual 10in. LowbedsAlyssum,Sweet Coolspring,fullsun,quicktobloom 3 Annual 8in. LowbedsAsclepias Warmsummer,sun,sowoutdoorsspringorfall 3 Hardy 12in. Perennialborder,cutflowerAster Coolspring,fullsun 3 Annual 12in. Bedding,tallcuttingborderBegonia Warmsummer,partialshade,sowearly Annual 10in. Lowbeds,patiocontainers,hangingbasketsCelosia Warmsummer,fullsun,quicktobloom 3 Annual 12in. Bedding,cutflowerChrysanthemum Sowinspringforfallbloom,fullsun Hardy 12in. Beds,perennialborder,patio,cutflowerColeus Warmsummer,likesmoistshade Annual 12in. Beds,patiocontainers,hangingbasketsCoreopsis Hotsummersun,bloomsthroughdrought,sowearly 3 Hardy 12in. Bedding,perennialborder,cutflowerCrapeMyrtlettes Sowearlyformidsummerbloom,fullsun Hardy 24in. Perennialborder,patiocontainersDahlia Warmsummer,fullsun,richsoil 3 HardySouth 12in. Bedding,perennialborder,cutflowerDaylily Sowearlyforsummerbloom,thrivesanywhere Hardy 12in. Beddingperennialborder,cutflowerDelphinum Coolspring,fullsun,sowearly Hardy 15in. Perennialborder,cutflowerDustyMiller Coolspring,fullsun Hardy 12in. Lowbeds,perennialborderFloweringCabbage,Cool,fallorspring,fullsun,toleratesfrost Annual 12in. SpringorfallbeddingKale Gazania Warmsummer,fullsun,toleratesdrought Annual 12in. Bedding,patiocontainersGerbera Sowearlyforsummerbloom,sun HardySouth 12in. Bedding,patio,cutflowerGeranium Warmsummer,fullsun,well-drainedsoil Annual 12in. Bedding,patiocontainersHibiscus Warmsummer,fullsun,moistsoil Hardy 18in. Tallborder,perennialborderHollyhock Warmsummer,fullsun,sowearly Hardy 18in. Tallborder,perennialborderImpatiens Warmsummer,someshade,moistsoil Annual 12in. Bedding,patiocontainers,basketsLisianthus Hotsummersun,bloomsthrudrought,sowearly HardySouth 12in. Bedding,cutflower,perennialborderMarigold Warmsummer,fullsun,quickgrower 3 Annual 12in. Bedding,patiocontainers,cutflowerMonarda Summerbloom,hardy,sunorshade,sowearly 3 Hardy 12in. Bedding,perennialborder,cutflowerNasturtium Coolspring,fullsun,dryinfertilesoil 3 Annual 12in. Bedding,patiocontainers,basketsPampasGrass Hotsummersun,tough,anysoil,sowearly Hardy 4ft. Tallspecimen,everlastingcutflowerPansy Coolspring,fullsun,sowearly HardySouth 10in. Lowbeds,patiocontainersPardancanda Hotsummersun,tough,anysoil,sowearly Hardy 12in. Perennialborder,cutflowerPetunia Warmsummer,fullsun Annual 12in. Bedding,patiocontainer,hangingbasketPortulaca Hotsummersun,toleratesdrought 3 Annual 12in. Lowbeds,edgingPrimula Coolspring,shade,sowearly Hardy 12in. Bedding,winterhouseplant,potRudbeckia Hotsummersun,bloomsallsummer,showy 3 Hardy 15in. Bedding,perennialborder,cutflower(Black-eyedSusan)Salvia Sunorshade,warmsummer Annual 12in. Bedding,hummingbirdsSnapdragon Coolspringorfall,fullsun HardySouth 12in. Bedding,tallcuttingborderStatice Warmsummer,fullsun Annual 12in. Borders,everlastingcutflowerStrawflower Warmsummer,fullsun Annual 12in. Beds,everlastingcutflowerSunflower Summersun,fastgrowing 3 Annual 12in. Tallsummerborder,screen,birdforageVinca Hotsummersun,tough,bloomsthrudrought Annual 12in. Bedding,edging,patio,basketsZinnia Hotsummersun,quickgrower 3 Annual 12in. Bedding,tallcuttingborder

Park’s Flower Planting Guide

*Annual-Growsbloomsandseedsinonegrowingseason,usuallydiesinwinter.Perennial(Hardy)–Livesandbloomsfrommorethanonegrowingseason.

Park’s Flower Planting GuideAgeratum Removespentbloomstoprolongflowering.Keepwell-wateredinhot,dryweather.Alyssum,Sweet Shearplantsbacklightlytopromotelongerbloomingperiod.Aster TominimizethepossibilityofAsterWilt,plantinadifferentpartofyourgardeneachyear.Begonia Bronze-leavedvarietiesdoparticularlywellinsun.Keepfoliagedry,providegoodaircirculation

aroundplants.Chrysanthemum Canalsobesetoutasplantsorrootedcuttings.Fertilizeheavily.Topromotebushygrowthand

moreflowers,pinchouttipsseveraltimes,uptoJuly15.Divideinspring.Coleus Pinchoffflowerspikestopromotegrowthandattractiveappearance.CrapeMyrtle StartedindoorsinMarchfromseeds,willbloominlateJuly.Alsoavailableasplants.Hardyin

South;inNorth,bringplantsindoorsoverwinter.Dahlia Blooms firstyear fromseed.Alsoavailableas tuberous roots that shouldbeplanted6 inches

deepafterdangerofspringfrost.Tallervarietiesmayneedstaking.Daylily InSouth,seedsowninlatesummerwillbloomfollowingyear—takeslongerintheNorth.Most

commonlygrownfromplants.Exceptionallyeasytogrow,weedproofandtroublefree.Delphinium Feedheavily.Afterblooming,cutbackfloweringstalksatbasetoinducerebloominfall.Gerbera SeedstartedinJanuarywillbloominJune.Growinfullsun,providingamplemoisture.North

ofWashington,D.C.,potupinfallandgrowinacoolsunnywindowoverwinter.Geranium Geraniumseedsmaygerminateirregularly,sodonottransplantfromtrayuntilgerminationis

complete.Drenchseedlingswithapprovedfungicide.Hollyhock Somebloomfromseedthefirstyear,othersshouldbestartedinAugustforbloomthefollowing

season.Youngplantsperformbest;keepanewsupplycomingfromseed.Impatiens Oneofthebestofallannualsforshade.Startsbloomingin3monthsfromseed.Pinchbackonce

ortwicebeforesettingout,thuspromotingcompact,bushygrowth.Lisianthus Movetofull,brightlightand80-85°temperatureafterthesmallseedlingsfirstbecomevisible.Marigold Plantoverlytallorleggyseedlingsdeep,sotheywillrootalongthestems.Removespentflowers

forappearanceandtopromotemorebloom.Easy!Pansy Prepareplantingsitedeeply,addinghumus.Acool,shady,moistsoilgivesbestresults.Pardancanda Willgrow,evenunderadverseconditions.UsewintermulchnorthofZone7.Portulaca Maybestartedindoorsorsowninthegarden.Primula Hardysortsalsoavailableasplants.Prefermoistsoil,highinhumus.Salvia Useredsforconcentratedbrightcolor;pastelshadesdowellinlightshade.Drenchseedlingswith

approvedfungicidetopreventdampingoff.Snapdragon Pinchbackafterbloomingtopromoteasecondflushofbloom.Strawflower Topreserve,cutwhenshowinggoodcolorandhangupsidedown,whereaircirculationisgood.Sunflower Easilygrowninsun.Largekindsprovideedibleseedforpeopleorbirds.Vinca Periwinklesareexcellent for foliageeffectand flowers fromJune to frost.Both creepingand

dwarfuprighttypesareavailable.Zinnia Plantwheregoodaircirculationisavailable.

Sowing Seeds Indoors Though most seeds are reliably started indoors, many types are easily started outdoors where they are to grow. The Planting Guides at the back of this book, your seed packets, and the Park Seed Catalog Index will tell you which these are. Page 10 of this Handbook will give you easy directions on how to sow outdoors.Planning Good timing in sowing seeds is a key to having transplants of the right size to set out in the right weather. Three important things to know are:1. The first and last expected frost dates for your area.2. The kind of weather liked best by the young plants of the types you’re grow-

ing.3. The number of weeks from sowing to setting-out size.When to Sow You can ask your local county extension agent for the frost dates and other Seasonal Benchmarks for your area. You can also find this information in publications like the Farmer’s Almanac, and on many Internet Websites by searching for “US Frost Free Dates.” We have provided a place for you to write these down in the chart at right. Some seeds need warm temperatures (about 70° F) or even warmer to germinate. Others need cool temperatures (about 55° F) or freezing to germinate well. Young plants may prefer a differ-ent temperature to grow on than the seed did to germinate. Remember that the germination temperatures we talk about refer to soil temperature. Indoors, soil temperatures will approximate the average of day and night temperature for the location. Outdoors, soil temperatures will be slightly below this average in spring and slightly above it in fall. To find out when you ought to sow, first pick out the right date for setting out in your area; then count back the number of weeks to grow garden-size transplants. Sort your seed packets into groups by their germination temperature require-

ments, so you will know which ones can be sown together. Before you sow, pick some good locations around your house to set seed trays and to continue growing the seedlings after germination (see page 5). To find out how many seed trays to prepare, decide first how many plants of each kind you need, and sow twice that many seeds. For each 50 square inches of tray surface area, you may broadcast sow:Up to 50 large seeds Up to 100 small seeds Up to 5150 tiny seeds One or two varieties may be sown in each seed tray; just make sure to label them. You should sow rather thinly in the tray, allowing enough space so seed-lings won’t grow together and get overcrowded before they’re ready to trans-plant (and to make transplanting easier). If you are starting seeds in individual

It may be helpful to use a planning paper like the example given below: (Example: Lexington, Va.)

Seed Transplant Transplant Date No. Weeks from sowing to Date Type: Season: in My Area: garden size transplants: to Sow:

2

EArly SPrINg: Soil temperature is cool, but past the last hard freeze or heavy frost. May still have light frost.______________________________ to ______________________________lATE SPrINg: Soil has begun to warm, and danger of frost is past.______________________________ to ______________________________EArly SuMMEr: Soil temperature and night temperatures have warmed.______________________________ to ______________________________lATE SuMMEr: Soil and night temperatures have begun to cool, but still before first frost.______________________________ to ______________________________FAll: Soil temperature has cooled and light frosts occur, but before first hard freeze or heavy frost. Ground is not frozen.______________________________ to ______________________________WINTEr: Soil temperature is very cold or soil is actually frozen. Hard freezes and heavy frosts; soil may freeze.

Seasonal Benchmarks

Ageratum Early Summer May 1 - 15 6 to 8 March 15

3

Preparing Seed Flats Choose your sowing medium carefully. It should be porous and well-drained, but absorbent and soft as well. While finely textured humus or compost is fine, we have found Park’s Grow Mix to be the ideal medium. Most seeds are easy to start using Park’s Grow Mix and Park’s Seed Flats. (This is the method of Park’s Original Seed Starter Kit.) Other kits, such as the Park’s Bio Dome Seed Starter or Park Starts®, allow you to skip the preparatory steps. (No’s 1-4).1. For each flat to be filled, dip out four cups of

grow mix and place in a plastic bag. Add 11/2 cups of water at room temperature.

2. Close the top of the plastic bag tightly and squeeze the moistened grow mix to help it absorb the water thoroughly.

3. Put the thoroughly moistened grow mix into a seed flat and pat it down, paying particular attention to the corners and edges, until the surface is level. Fill the flat to within 1/4 inch of the brim.

4. Make shallow furrows one inch apart in the surface of the grow mix, using a pencil or your fingers; 1/4 inch deep for small seed or 1/8 inch deep for tiny seed. Large seed can just be poked into the medium without making a furrow.

Sowing Indoors, Medium Seed1. Shake or tap seed packet so that seeds go to the

bottom of the packet. Cut the seed packet open across the marked line at the top. A clean cut makes smooth sowing easier.

2. Pick up the packet with one hand, thumb on one side and fingers on the other. Press at the edges so that the packet stays open, and crease the packet at the center of the lower lip to make a trough. To sow seed evenly along the length of the furrow, hold packet level over one corner of the flat, close to the surface of the medium at the end of the first furrow. Move the packet slowly along the furrow, while tapping the packet lightly with a pencil or your finger. A few seeds should roll out into the fur-row with each tap. If too many seeds fall too close together, simply separate them with the point of the pencil. If you are doing this for the first time, it may pay to practice sowing over a creased piece of paper first, to see if you are sowing your seeds the proper distance apart.

3. To cover the seeds, pinch the furrows closed. A good rule of thumb is to make sure the seeds are covered to twice their thickness.

NOTE: Seeds that need light to germinate should not be covered. Your seed packet will tell you if this is the case.

4. To water the flat, place it in a pan of water at room temperature (cold water can slow ger-mination), until the top of the medium is very moist. Bottom watering in this manner helps to prevent seeds being washed away by the force of sprayed water.

5. Cover the planted flat with a sheet of clear plas-tic wrap (such as is used to cover food dishes) or enclose it in a clear plastic bag. Make sure plas-tic does not touch surface of sowing medium. Place flat where the seeds are to germinate.

Sowing Indoors, Tiny Seed1. Prepare the flats as previously described . . .

with a pencil, press shallow furrows one inch apart parallel to the long side of the flat.

2. For extra protection and easier handling, we package tiny seeds specially in a see-through glassine inner envelope, which you will find tucked inside our regular PARKSPAK®. Remove the glassine envelope from the PARKSPAK®. Handle it gently by the edges, as some tiny seeds can be easily crushed or broken. Hold the glassine envelope as shown in the illustration below, and tap the end with your fingernail until you can see the seed inside collect along the side crease of the envelope. Then snip off the end with scissors.

PARKSPAK® has instructions

for germina-tion on back of

packet.

Make furrows with pencilSowing medium size seed

4

3. Press the edges lightly between your fingerstoholdopenthemouthoftheenvelope.Sowseedsthinlybytappingtheglassinegentlywithyourfinger.Seedshouldrollalongthecreaseandoutoftheenvelopeinasinglethinline.

4. Becausetinyseedsmaybetoosmalltobreakthrough a layer of germinating medium, theyshouldnotbecoveredwithmedium.Thisalsoappliestoseedsthatrequirelightforgermina-tion(thisfactisnotedontheseedpacket).Sow seeds into the rows, but DO NOTCOVERTHESEEDS.Instead,covertheflatwith a sheet of clear plastic, or enclose in aclearplasticbag.

5. Waterfromthebottomtopreventseedsfrombeing washed under the medium. Many tinyseeds need warmth to germinate (this fact isnotedonthepacket).Checktheflatseverydayforpropermoisture,wateringonlyasmuchasneededtokeepthesurfacemoist,andmakingsuretowaterfromthebottom.

6. Keep the flat out of direct sunlight until theseeds begin sprouting, then remove the plas-tic covering. Move to filtered sunlight on awindowsill.Orplaceunderagrowinglamp,assoonastheseedlingsappear.

Sowing Indoors, Large Seed1. Holdthetopendofthepacketbetweenthumb

and forefinger, shake seed to bottom end ofpacket,andcutortearoffthetopofthepack-et.

2. Pour the seeds out into your hand; use yourfinger or a pencil to poke each seed 1/4 inchdeep into the prepared grow mix in the flat.Space1inchapartinrows1inchapart.

3. SprinkledryPark’sGrowMixevenlyovertheseed if cover is required (see packet instruc-tions).Seedshouldbecoveredtotwiceitsownthickness.Fastgerminating largeseedshouldnot be covered with plastic; those that ger-minateslowlydobenefitfromaplasticcover,appliedsoitdoesnottouchsurfaceofgrowingmedium.

4. Tobottom-watertheseedflat,placeitinapanofwateratroomtemperatureuntilthesurfaceofthemediumisthoroughlymoist.

5. Placeflatwhereseedistogerminate.6. As soon as seedlings emerge, remove plastic

covering (if used) and move flat to brighterlight.

Sowing in Park-Starts® orPark’s Bio Dome Seed StarterPark-Starts®andPark’sBioDomeSeedStarterswill enable you to grow strong, healthy seedlingswithminimumeffort.EachPark-StartsStyrofoamblockcontains18individualpre-moistenedplugs.TheBioDomeStyrofoamblockscontaineither60or 40 plugs and the Double Bio Dome will holdtwooftheblocks.Asthenameindicates,theBioDomeshaveaconvenientcoverfurnishedwiththe

unit.Eachplughasbeenpre-dibbledsothataholeis already present to accept the seed. Just droponeortwoseedsintoeachhole,placetheunitinafavorablelocation,keepmoistwithaweakfertiliz-ersolution,andwaitfortheplantstoemerge.TheStyrofoam blocks from either unit can be savedandrefilledwithnewplugsyearafteryear.Theholesintheplugsneednotbecoveredoveraftersowing.Consultyourseedpacketforspecialinstructions.1. Remove the Park-Start or Bio Dome Styro-

foam blocks from the plastic wrap, keepingupright so that theplugsdonot fallout.Theplugsarereadytosowastheyare!

2. Formostseedtypes,placetwoseedsintothepre-dibbledholeatthetopofeachplug.Tinyseeds should be sown on the surface of theplug,notinthehole.Seedsdonotneedcover-inginthePark-StartsorBioDomeplugs.Eachplug provides the optimum environment forgermination.

3. Place the germination units in a favorablelocationasindicatedontheseedpacket.

4. Mixaweakfertilizersolution,followingdirec-tionsonthefreefertilizerpacketincludedwithyour Park-Starts or Park’s Bio Dome SeedStartershipment.

5. To moisten the plugs it is best to soak themfrom the bottom. This can easily be done byputting the fertilizer solution into the undertrays provided and floating the Styrofoamblocksinthesolution.Itisnotpossibletoover-waterbythismethod.Alternatively,theplugsmaybelightlysprinkledwiththesolution,tak-ingcaresothattheseedisnotdislodged.

How to sow from glassine (tiny seed)

6. PlacethedomeontheBioDometomaintainthe humidity around the planted plugs. ThePark-Starts may be placed into a plastic bagto accomplish the same effect. Keep moistwith the fertilizer solution until the seedlingsemerge.Againtheblocksmaybefloatedinthefertilizer solution. Because of their composi-tion,theplugsretainjusttherightamountofwater.Lessfrequentwateringmaybeneededandthereisnodangerofoverwateringaswithsomeothergerminationmethods.

7. When you see that germination has started,opentheventsontheBioDomeorifthePark-Startswereputintoaplasticbag,cutafewslitsin thebagtogivesomeventilation.After theseedlingshaveemerged,removethedomeorplastic bag and provide more light. Water asoftenasneededtokeeptheplugsmoist,usingthe fertilizer solution. Once a week gentlywateroverheadwithplainwaterandthencon-tinuetousethefertilizersolution.

8. Ifyouhavedouble-sown,keeponlythestron-ger seedling in each plug. Remove the otherseedlingbycuttingthestemat thetopof theplugwithsharpscissors.

9. Increase the light levels to prevent the seed-lings from stretching and producing a weakplant.Brighterlightwillhelpkeeptheseedlingshortandstout.

10.Transplantseedlings,plugandall,whenthefirstor second true leaves appear. To remove theplugfromtheblock,pokeoutfromthebottom.Plant where the plants are to grow and givepropercarementionedelsewhereinthisbook-let.

11.Ifweatherortimingdelaysyourtransplanting,often the roots will emerge from the bottomoftheplugs.Propuptheblockstoallowsomeair space beneath them, until you are able totransplantbutdon’tallowtheplugstodry.Thisbuildsastrongerrootsystemwithintheplug.

Germination IndoorsLocationsOnce you know germination requirements, youcan find a good location around your home forgerminatingalmostanytypeofseed.

Warm SpotsMany seeds like steady warmth for best results;thetopofarefrigeratorhasgivenusgoodresultswith these. A spot under a grow-lamp is nearlyideal, though a countertop in your kitchen orbathroomwillalsoworkwell, if theseroomsarekeptwarm.

Cool SpotsOther seeds like a cool spot. A cold frameor raised, protected bed outdoors during coolweather,anunheatedgarage,anatticinwinter,orabasementorclosedroom(duringcoldweather),oranorthwindowsillallhaveworkedwellforus.These locations can also be employed to satisfyany initialchillingorfreezingthat isrequiredbya specific type (this fact appearson thepacket).Yourrefrigeratororfreezercandothesame.

Park-Starts® grow strong healthy plants

A Grow-Lamp provides warmth and light for germination

Park’s Bio Dome

5

6

Watering Once seeds have been sown, check the moisture of your sowing medium every day. Moist medium is darker brown, becoming lighter in color as it dries. Touch the surface . . . if it feels dry, sprinkle the top gently, or better, water from the bottom with water at room temperature. Allow water to soak up until the surface becomes moist, but not so heavily that the medium stays soggy. Aim for a constant, moderate degree of moisture.NOTE: Keep your seed flats out of direct sunlight, which is often too hot or drying, until the seeds have emerged. Then be sure to furnish additional light.

Emergence Emergence occurs as the baby plant breaks out of its seed coat, and the first stem rises out of the soil. The first leaves which appear on many seedlings are the so-called seed leaves (cotyledons), which often bear little resemblance to the later leaves. Shortly after the first true leaves, which are more or less typical of the plant, appear, the cotyledons will drop off . . . don’t worry when this happens. With some types of plants, like corn and lilies, the first part to appear is a true leaf, which will not drop off but instead remain and grow.

Growing SeedlingsLocation Seedlings of different species require different conditions for best growth. In some species, the seedling prefers a temperature different from the germination temperature. Read your seed packet, and pick out ahead of time favorable places to move your seedling flat after emergence. After emerging, your seedlings should be moved into a desirable location; your seed packet will indicate desired light and temperature. All seed-lings need light to develop into strong, healthy plants. In dim light they will grow too tall, with weak, spindly stems. Fluorescent grow-lamps, greenhouses, or cold frames are a big help, but protected beds or sunny windowsills work well also. Avoid cold drafts for warmth-loving kinds. Seedlings also need air circulation for good health, so avoid locations that are too closed-in. Remove the clear plastic cover from the flat as soon as emergence occurs.

Moisture Check the moisture of your growing medium in the flat. Air movement, bright light and warmth, while needed, also cause fast drying. Keep the medium less moist than while seeds were actu-ally germinating, but still don’t let its surface dry completely, until your seedlings grow a little big-ger. You may need to cut watering back to every second or third day, rather than daily. Watch seedling stems carefully. If some of them fall down, the base turning brown and collapsing though the leaves still look good, this may indicate “damping-off”. This is a disease that is encour-aged by too-wet soil and poor ventilation. Reduce watering and increase ventilation. A fungicidal drench may also help. Seedlings whose leaves droop or shrivel, or whose stems, though not discolored, bend over along their entire length, are probably too dry, so soak the flat thoroughly.

Feeding You can begin feeding your seedlings even before they emerge! When you water your seed-ling flats, simply use a weak fertilizer solution instead of plain water. We recommend 1/4 tea-spoon of Park-Start® Fertilizer per gallon of water at room temperature. Your seedlings should be kept looking healthy, with a strong green color. Yellowish green may mean more nitrogen is needed, so fertilize a little more (increase gradu-ally). A “burned” look may indicate too much fer-tilizer is present. Water from the top in this case, using plain water, until it runs out of the bottom, thus removing excess fertilizer salts. Then reduce feeding rates.

Cotyledons

First true leaves

A wilted seedling (too dry)

A damped-off seed-ling (too wet)

7

Transplanting Seedlings from a Seedling Flat or Seedbed When seeds have been sown close together in a flat, the seedlings grow together rather quickly. They soon become overcrowded, tall and spindly (this is why seeds should be sown thinly to begin with) from stretching in competition for light. After 4 true leaves have developed, and as soon as they begin to touch one another, it’s time to transplant seedlings into pots or into a Bedding Plant Kit, where they will have more space. Follow these steps in transplanting:1. Water the seedling flat (from bottom) one

hour before transplanting, so that seedlings can “drink their fill”. This means a complete soak, so that soil is wet, not just moist.

2. Moisten the soil or Park’s Grow Mix, or the One-Step into which you’ll transplant, and fill the pots or Bedding Plant Kit you’ll be growing in to within 1/4 inch of the brim. Set pots in a tray. (If you’re transplanting directly to a seed-bed, make sure it’s moist, soft and shaded.)

3. Dibble the Park’s Grow Mix in each pot by making a hole large enough to fit the seedling’s roots. Push the end of a pot label or a pencil an inch or so into the grow mix and move it back and forth to open up the hole.

4. Gently remove seedlings from flat. Use a fork or tongue depressor (as pictured) to loosen grow mix and pry the seedlings apart, as you lift them from the seedling flat. Pull them apart carefully. A small ball of grow mix should cling to the roots.

NOTE: Handle seedlings by the leaves or the soil ball around the roots, not by the stems, in order to avoid injury to the stem.

5. Place the root ball into the hole you have made for it. Gently firm the grow mix around the roots, then fill in the hole so that the soil surface is level in the pot. Cover only the roots and the base of the stem, not the leaves.

6. Label the pots with the name of the plant.7. Thoroughly soak with fertilizer solution, from

the bottom, the same way as for a seedling flat.

Transplanting from Park’s Bio-Domes, Park-Starts®, One-Step or Bedding Plant Kits If you have sown seed into one of these kits, you can skip most of the steps for transplanting. As the seedlings grow larger and begin to touch, either space them further apart, if possible, or plant them into approiate sized pots to avoid transplant shock. Or you may set them directly in the garden if the weather is right.

Care After Transplanting Seedlings may droop or wilt somewhat right after transplanting, if some roots were broken or disturbed. To speed recovery, keep them quite moist and out of the sun for 2 days, then give filtered sun or half-day sun for 2 days, after which they should be ready for bright light.

Gently remove seedlings from flat

Transplanting into Jiffy Pot

Growing plants in One-Steps

8

Growing On Growing on to garden size plants may take only a week or it may take several months, depending on species. Your seed packet instructions and the Park Seed Catalog’s Cultural Index give detailed information about each type of plant.

Watering and Feeding After seedlings are established, with healthy roots spreading through the grow mix, they will need a drier medium and less frequent, but more concentrated feedings. Let the surface of the grow mix become dry to the touch between waterings (lower layers should still never dry out). Feed once a week using a water soluble fertilizer.

Pinching If plants get too tall before planting time, pinch them back. Leave plenty of foliage and some branches so growth can continue, but pinch off just above a lower leaf or branch (see diagram). A small pair of pruning shears does a better job than fingers.

Setting OutPlant Condition It’s best to set your transplants out before they begin to bloom, since a young garden plant needs its energy to grow roots, not flowers. If your trans-plants set flower buds or bloom before planting out time, disbud them or cut off the blooms. Plants are definitely ready for the garden when roots grow through the bottoms of their contain-ers, but you can hold most types up to 4 more weeks before planting, if you must wait for ideal planting weather. While each type is different, a good rule of thumb is to set plants out when 2 to 4 inches tall. Plants for container gardens should be set out at this same stage.

Hardening Off Transplants that have been raised indoors are soft, and must get used to sun, wind and rain. It is best to let them “harden off” gradually for several days before planting in the garden. Move the trays of transplants outdoors to a sheltered, shady place out of the wind. Keep them well-watered. (If they wilt anyway, bring them back inside until they perk up again.) Bring back indoors each evening. After two days, leaves and stems should be stronger. Move transplants to a half-sun location for 2 more days. When they are tough enough to go through the day without wilting, it’s time to plant them in the garden or container.

Planting Your transplants will grow best and reward you the most if they are set out into well-prepared garden soil. If your soil needs fertilizer or pH cor-rection, take care of these tasks before you turn or rake the soil for the last time. Before planting, smooth the surface of your bed with a garden rake. Level out any depressions and remove hard clods, rocks and sticks. To get proper spacing, place your transplants on the surface of the garden bed in an arrangement that pleases you. DO THIS IN SMALL GROUPS . . . YOU DON’T WANT PLANTS TO WILT BEFORE YOU CAN PLANT THEM! Space far enough apart so that each plant can grow to matu-rity without overcrowding its neighbor. Some plants need more space than others; your catalog and packet instructions recommend optimum spacing. Some plants, especially those with base branch-ing habit, do not like to have their stems buried. These include: Gerbera, Gazania, Pansy, Petunia, Primula, Salvia, Zinnia, Ageratum, Begonia, Cabbage, Lettuce, Pepper and others. Other species, such as Marigolds, Chrysanthe-mums, Coleus, Cosmos, Impatiens, and Tomatoes do not mind if the lower part of their stems is buried, and will root readily along the buried por-tion of the stem.

Pinching makes bushy plants

9

Do not bury leaves. If you do plant part of the stem underground, remove the leaves from that part of the stem first.

Avoid planting any debris such as sticks or leaves along with the root system of your plants. Such debris interferes with the necessary contact between root and soil.

Watering In If your plants are set out closely in beds, soak the beds immediately after planting. Soil should be wet to a depth of several inches below the roots. Run a gentle sprinkler or soaker hose as long as it takes to achieve this. Plants that are set out indi-vidually should be watered so thoroughly that a

temporary mud puddle forms around the base of each plant. This will eliminate air pockets and bring about good root/soil contact. Avoid splash-ing soil onto the stem or leaves of your young plants. For this reason, it’s best to avoid having water from your hose flowing at full force. Plants should be watered early enough in the day so that they do not go into the night with wet leaves.

Mulching Mulch your beds as soon as you have planted and watered. Use material that has weathered for several months so as not to deprive the soil of nitrogen. This may happen with the application of fresh organic material which has not weathered. Old leaves, bark, dry grass clippings, wood shav-ings or any other loose, light material will do. Spread mulch several inches deep over the soil between the plants, press the mulch gently around the base of the stems, taking care not to break the stems or bury the leaves. Proper mulching will conserve moisture and help keep down weeds.

Growing point

Stem branching plant

Planting

Mulching

Muddying in

Base branching plant —Don’t bury leaves

Can be planted to this depth

Growing point