Welcome to the first edition of The modern distiller. It is a very exciting time for craft and hobby distillers with the advent of a whole raft of professional style equipment and methods becoming available. Never has it been easier to create world class spirits in the home. This magazine is a collaborative and co-operative way of sharing those experiences and knowledge amassed along the way. We welcome input and and involvement by distillers at all levels.the Doctor : Editor

For me a really pivotal moment occurred when I opened the packing cases containing my new bubble cap still. After fifteen years of struggling to get a decent product from my old, small, packed column still, trying everything from sugar washes and cordials to running as a pot without packing...I always seemed to be fighting the limitations of the equipment.

My new shiny stainless piece of distilling porn changed all that. What I had before me was the future, not just for me but for distilling. Here was a still that could be a classy pot still and yet could build to be a six plate (or more) bubble plate for polishing a vodka, smoother

than any yet tasted by myself...and I have tasted a lot!

My first runs with the bubble plate, were a learning experience, and yet already the product of those runs had a quality that I had never achieved by other means.

I am still new to this style of distilling, but am learning fast, I hope that by sharing my experiences and gathering those of others we might be able to progress the knowledge base on these stills to another level and together grow as distillers.

the Doctorwww.moderndistiller.com

Welcome to the first edition of the modern distillerthe future is hereBy the Doctor

Get Connectedforums and websites we loveBy Brian Trout

We are Lucky to have some amazingly good forums to gain knowledge from, and share our wonderful craft. Apart from our own at

www.moderndistiller.com

we recommend the English site

http://www.stillsmart.co.uk/forum/

and the American site

www.artisan-distiller.net

These are sites where new members will be treated with respect and assisted by knowledgable people in their search for knowledge.

The distilling community is only too happy to assist you in the pursuit of excellence...join a forum or all of them and reap the rewards.

The international Brotherhood of Craft Distillers.

Distillers are a world wide PhenomenonBy the Doctor

Distilling has given me a lot of pleasure over the years. But n o n e m o r e s o t h a n t h e camarader ie i share w i th distillers from all over the world by becoming a forum member I have the privilege of sharing experiences and knowledge with a world wide collective of like minded people. Any cultural differences are easily forgotten when we start talking about washes and stills. how easily we slip from the subject of distilling into everyday experiences. It builds a special bond with people we would otherwise have no chance of meeting. It has b r o a d e n e d m y g l o b a l perspective and enriches my life in ways I could not have imagined. I daily share the trials, tribulations and joys of a group o f p e o p l e , w h o ’ s d a i l y experiences are very different to mine. and have developed empathy for their unique lives as a result. Join a forum be it a distilling forum or not. you wont regret it..

www.moderndistiller.com

“ Every evening I join a widely disparate group of people online from whom I have learnt a lot, and not just about distilling, but about different experiences...ours is a rich vein of global friendship”the Doctor

The craft of distilling is well represented by some world class forums here are a few

EQUALIZING A PLATED STILLbeginning your spirit run on a bubble cap stillBy Still Dragon Founder Fester : member modern distiller forum

EQUILIBRIUM

the magazine of the

moderndistiller

Hubble Bubble Toil and Trouble goes the line from a children’s fairy tale as a witch works over the cauldron when making magic.

So it is when starting with plated stills.Loading and balancing your plates to get the best results from your plated still is relatively easy when you know how...but at first this is a daunting thing to have to do...so I have asked an experienced user to give us a round up of how they achieve equilibrium within their columns

Firstly I would like to introduce Fester...he is the founder and manufacturer of the StillDragon equipment...no one knows these stills like him... he is well known to those of you who visit the forums, and is keen to steer you newer users to achieve the very best results.

So to learn how to get the best out of these amazing pieces of distillingequipment read on

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moderndistiller

master class

Suspendisse feugiat mi sed lectusaoreet nec interdumBy Trenz Pruca

The term “equalizing” is often used, and so is “balancing” and “stabilizing”.The goal is to acquire equilibrium between boiler power input, reflux rate and product take off rate.

This is not difficult and there are few hard and fast rules. It is best to visualize the power as heat input. The power goes from the boiler, up the column and hits the dephlegmator – a special reflux condenser that allows for both reflux and the ability to allow some vapors to pass through – the vapors condense and a cycle begins. This ongoing cycle fills the plates and enriches them with higher and higher proof alcohol as the cycle continues.

At the beginning of this cycle, the more volatile and less favorable compounds are driven to the top of the column where they can be slowly drawn off and discarded.

Typically, the boiler is heated at high power to save time and once boiling the power is throttled back a bit so as not to over-power the dephlegmator.The dephlegmator is supplied with adequate water flow to achieve full reflux, which means no vapors are allowed to pass through it and all vapors are forced to condense back to the column to load and enrich the plates.It can take an hour or more to drive the undesirable compounds to the top of the

column where they are slowly drawn off so as not to contaminate the desirable alcohol that is collected later. This is referred to as compressing the heads.

After the undesirable fraction has been eliminated the desirable spirit is collected. The entire time, from the start of balancing the still and loading the plates to the finish of the run, the column is kept in constant equilibrium. The cycle of vapor rising and high proof alcohol droplets falling and enriching continues throughout the entire distillation run.

MASTERCLASS

BalancingPlated StillsbyFestera moderndistiller

A true artist turns his hand to still making

It was my recent pleasure to be present at the inaugural run of Stubbydrainer's latest custom bubble cap column. dubbed the “Gonzolution”. stubs built this beauty for esteemed distiller Punkin. The design reminds me of 20,000 leagues under the sea, Very steampunk in copper and machined brass portals. It has an almost victorian majesty to it. The look is retro with industrial taps and a very cool control / temperature panel. And yet at the same time there is all the digital monitoring you would expect from the very latest commercial still. As for the UJSM run, it was as polished as the still it self, equalization was achieved within the first hour, helped by Punkin's excellent power and control options. the only short coming we found was that Punkin's original water coolant pump was not up to the task...as this column wanted to run at a faster pace than Punkin's older column and deserved a better flow to do it. A new pump is already in place by the time you read this...lowering temperature after initial plate loading enabled us to get to a balance...the product was excellent the heads not overly sharp and the tails carried over some beautiful corn whiskey notes,

This still is a credit to careful planing and extraordinary craft skills by Stub’s.A still like this is a companion for life,it is worth the extra effort that goes into planning modifications and building...and apart from anything else, it is just so damned beautiful to look at... It really is a case of science meets art.the Doctor

GlossaryUJSMUncle Jesse’s Sour Mash...a simple

Many of us have started out simple when it comes to heating our boilers on our stills, from propane to simple electrical on/off control systems. Some even use a stovetop or hotplate as a heat source. Sooner or later however, as our interest grows and our equipment size grows, we strive to improve our process and produce a better product.This is where one often must make the decision to run a variable propane rig, or step up to a fully adjustable electric heat system. As an underground hobby, it’s not uncommon to want to distill indoors (basement or shed usually) and this raises safety concerns when distilling over open flames. The chance for CO poisoning or explosion due to alcohol vapors combusting become a very real danger. This is where most distillers decide to go down the electric route.For the small, first time hobbyist a stove or hotplate is often the starting point. For the more advanced distiller with larger equipment like a keg boiler, a variable control system is often used. These larger systems often incorporate off the shelf components like hot water heater elements (4.5kW and 5.5kW are common sizes) and simple phase angle control modules. These control modules are readily available off Ebay using search terms such as “SSR40VA” or “voltage resistance regulator”. Here is a link to a kit form unit with everything you need aside from a heat-sink. http://www.ebay.ca/itm/140553987088?ssP ... 1423.l2649The phase angle system is a simple and popular design for controlling a single element like the large majority of distillers use.Some distillers wish to step up the heat input so they can achieve faster warm up times and reduced tails run out times. This is accomplished by putting two or even three elements in a boiler. The additional heat input can cut the warm up time to less than half; some report times as low as 25-35min for a full keg. This holy grail of electric distilling does have its drawbacks though, the most important being a hefty supply circuit capable of supplying 50-60amperes of electricity at

240v. This is what a common range (stove) circuit can supply, and some use this as a plugin for their system.For the multi element boiler, you also need increased complexity in your control system. Some simply build a separate phase angle system for each element, some switch elements on manually for heat up and tails run out, and others opt for a fully variable system. It is important to understand that despite the power being available, it is not needed during column stabilization and hearts collection. A single element is used for these processes. It is up to the distiller to decide what control scheme will best suit his needs, but remember, eventually you may wish to upgrade. With this in mind, you may wish to consider a modular approach, or even oversize your control system to accommodate future upgrades.Next issue, we will look at incorporating digital control and temp monitoring into a simple manual controller. See you next time and thanks for reading….

Electric Distillery Control SystemsBy Swedemember....modern distiller forum

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A semi-automated multi element controller - by Swede

The GIN THUMPER

Yet another example of the work of modern distilling forum member Stubbydrainer, this well thought out and beautifully crafted gin thumper has been a labour of love. It is proof that functional design can and should be beautiful. The craft of distilling has many fine crafts people... and work like this is testament to the poetry of the craftsman's hand, one can but admire.

So what does it Cost to Starthow much is the entry to the worlds best hobbyBy Archie Liederhosen.

HOW MUCH DOES IT COST?

Due to unforeseen changes in my life I ended up with time on my hands and not much disposable income, so I started looking round for a new, low cost interest to fill in some time.

I had always wanted to make my own spirits so I discussed the idea with my wife. Her first reaction was “How much will it cost”. If the truth be known, I had absolutely no idea but anticipating that I would want to make 2 bottles a week at say £2.50 a bottle and to sound knowledgeable about the subject, I proudly announced that it would “cost less than £5 a week”.

My budget was set, and she has never let me go over it, not even once.

Having got the necessary permissions from my wife I started looking at the options. Buy a still? A trip to the local Home Brew Shop and I realized that at £5 a week it would take a couple of years to save up for a T500 + ancillaries and even using an Airstill it would be over a year before I could make something to drink. The obvious thing was to build my own; it would be cheaper and keep me occupied for the period before I would be able to manage my first run.

Any tools or equipment I would need had to come out of the same budget, so I decided not to buy any and would make do with the basic hand tools that I had in my shed.

I saved up a few weeks money and bought a roll of 8mm copper tube, a lot of reading, a bit of practicing a couple of disasters and I had my coil(s). In the time it took me to make the coils I saved enough money to buy a meter of 2” pipe and this is how it went, saving the money to buy the materials that would provide the entertainment for the next period, I managed to salvage odd bits and pieces, the local pound shop supplied a few more and my Mum bought me a second hand “Burco” for my birthday. A year later I had my still, complete with power controller.

In theory the same budget applies to the production cycle as it did during construction i.e. £5 a week. With this I can keep one 25 liter fermenter going full time and make my two bottles a week with some left over for long term keeping. My wife is very pleased; I no longer slip slabs of beer into the supermarket trolley so she happily turns a blind eye to the extra boxes of Bran Flakes or yeast that replaces them.

My circumstances once more have changed, this time for the better and I am now in a position that I could afford a bigger (better?) setup and make more, but why? My reality is that I do not need it, with my minimalist brewery I can make 25 liters of wash / 4 liters of strip / 3+ bottles of spirits a week which is better than I hoped for and when people ask me “what does it cost?”, I can honestly answer “less than £5 a week”What is the entry price to get into the hobby of distilling

modern distiller Archie Liederhosen shares his experiences.

I was looking recently at the google analytics for my youtube channel and was pleased to see that over 5% of the viewing audience was female...whilst 5% is still not a lot it is a growing demographic...I thought to myself, where are these women, why do we not see them on the forums... after all half the drinkers in the world are female (well that is true in my household) why do they not have a place in the on-line communities. Well I thought that it was time to see what could be done. Firstly I looked at the forums which are out there...one must admit that they are in general very blokey, not that that is a bad thing ...especially if you are like me..well..a bloke....But I wonder if we provided a safe, swearing free, sexism free area just for women would they participate in greater numbers.

To that end we have set up a Women’s Club on the modern distiller forum...and set a fairly high standard for posts to reflect that women are welcome, on reflection I think that this has led us to have a better all round forum. And while female members are still negligible, you have to start somewhere. I don’t for a

minute see us ever having as many females as males. But you never know, after all big oak trees started of as Acorns.

I urge other forum Administrators to think about providing safe threads for female members making women welcome and providing encouragement for them. They are out there, they just haven’t found a home yet. Maybe the time has come.

“50% of the worlds drinkers are women...why are so few visible on the forums”Kilgore Trout

Where Are the Girlswhy are women so under-represented in distillingBy Kilgore Trout

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Women distillers are entering the world of professional distilling in increasing numbers why not hobby distilling?

New 6 inch and 8 inch plated bubble cap stills are already shipping to commercial craft distilleries around the globe. Fester the owner and chief engineer at StillDragon stated that these stills are in every way just scaled up versions of the now well proven Dash series stills. He was keen to point out the advantages of the modular design are as important to the commercial distilleries as it is to the home distiller. “these stills are a comfortable to operate in stripping mode, vodka / neutral, or flavored product mode.” It is this modular advantage that sets the Dragons apart from the rest.

The technology used in these professional craft distilleries is essentially the same as we make available to the home distiller. Our Dash stills are in every way a professional still.Fester

The Dragons Goes ProNew designs for craft distilleriesBy the Doctor

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CommercialModels Ship

I happen to have an interest in these monsters as I am going through the process of getting my distilling license...and think a 8 inch version of my Dash would be just amazing.

I own a very modest restaurant, winery and brewery, this is just what the small craft distillery is looking for.I costed the european copper alternatives and they were at least three times the price and no where near as versatile. the modular design opens lots of options. Good move StillDragon.

“of all the gin stills in all the bars in all the world”

UJSMThere is no way about it, corn whiskey is by volume the most consumed whiskey in the world...and with good reason, it is a fascinatingly varied spirit which displays all the regional complexities of a true thoroughbred. The best of the corn whiskeys are amongst the best whiskeys from anywhere...bar none.So what is a home distiller to do given the complexities of producing such a rarified product...well the answer came a couple of years ago in the form of Uncle Jesse’s Sour Mash or UJSM as it is commonly known. this hybrid wash has become the go to recipe for producing a very easy drinking corn whiskey without too much complexity for the distiller. The style is light easy sipping and smooth. Some of the best I have ever had was made by modern distiller forum regular Punkin. here is the recipe.

Ingredients

For a 5 gallon mash:

■ 5 gallons soft, filtered water.■ 7 lbs cracked corn. 6-8 pieces/kernel is the proper crack. If using bird feed, make sure it is perishable, or in

other words is free of preservatives.■ 7 lbs of granulated sugar.■ 1 tbsp yeast (distillers yeast if available.)

Theory

Unlike a cooked mash, a simple mash does not rely on grains for starch. The corn is included for a bit of alcohol, but mainly for flavor while the sugar provides the alcohol. The conversion of starches to sugars is a natural process, accelerated by cooking. An uncooked mash will convert starches to sugars but much more slowly and less efficiently. Your added sugar will ferment rather easily and will provide most of the alcohol in your beer.

Your first distillation run will be a "sweet" run since you will not have any backset to use for sour mashing. I recommend using the spirits you collect in your first run as feints for the next run. Yes, all of them. Your second run will produce your first batch of sour mash which will be good, but in truth the flavor and consistency will not start to reach their peak until the third or fourth run in my experience.eFirst Fermentation

Put your ingredients into the fermenter in the order listed and close it. You should start to see fermentation of the sugar within 12 hours. It should take 3 or 4 days for the ebullition to end. Siphon your beer out of the fermenter with a racking cane and charge your still.

Siphoning is the best method because it allows you to pull the beer off the top of your lees, leaving them undisturbed. You do not want suspended solids in your still and this method works quite well in keeping the lees at the bottom of your fermenter.

At this point you need to make your first decision. How much backset will you use in your subsequent mashes? The legal minimum for a sour mash is 25%. I do not like to go above 50% in my experience. For the sake of simplicity, let's say you will start with 25% backset. This means that for a 5 gallon mash you will use 1-1/4 gallons of backset and 3-3/4 gallons of water.

Since you will be running your still for hours, you do not want to leave the fermenter empty. Put your 3-3/4 gallons of water back into the fermenter so your yeast won't die while you distill. While you're at it, this is a perfect time to scoop the spent corn off the top and replace with an equal volume of newly cracked corn. Later we'll add the 1-1/4 gallons of backset and 7 more pounds of granulated sugar.

Making corn whiskey the easy way

Basics of Pot Distillation

There are two basic types of pot distillation:

■ The first involves a traditional pot still which has no cooling in the neck or column. The distillate produced is lower in proof than that produced by a reflux still with a fractionating or splitting column. This is the traditional method of distillation and requires multiple runs. The distiller will save up enough low wines from the first runs or stripping runs to fill the still for a second run. If a triple distillation is desired, the product from second distillations are collected until enough spirit is saved to fill the still for the third spirit run, and so on.

■ The second type of pot distillation is performed in a reflux still equipped such that the column can be cooled during distillation. This type of still is far more efficient and can produce a high proof, high quality spirit in a single run.

First Run

Pot distill your wash, being careful to keep things running slowly. For beginners, 2-3 drops of distillate exiting the worm every second is just about the perfect speed. As you collect, periodically put 4-5 drops of distillate into a spoon with an equal amount of water and sip it. You will learn to identify the off-taste of the heads very quickly.

For your first run it is best to take very conservative cuts. I recommend very generic whiskey cuts, say 80% down to 70%. As your skills improve you will be able to go deeper into your cuts, tasting periodically for the off-taste of the tails. Once you learn to identify the off-tastes of the heads and tails you will be able to make proper cuts without the use of a hydrometer, a big step toward becoming a competent distiller.

By law any spirits collected above 80% cannot be called whiskey because they are considered too "light" or neutral. In other words, they are too high in proof and thus do not properly imbue the spirit with the flavor of the grain mash. I use anything collected above 80% as feints for the next run. For more information on the legal definitions for whiskies and other spirits check out Title 27 of the U.S. Code of Federal Regulations.

Remember to discard the first 150ml or 5 fluid ounces collected so you don't get any methanol build up over time and batches.

Second Fermentation

Your fermenter should now contain 3-3/4 gallons of water, your old yeast (barm) and your old corn.

Take 1-1/4 gallons of backset from your previous distillation and add to it another 7 pounds of granulated sugar. This will dissolve the sugar rather easily. Hot backset directly from the still works better at dissolving sugar, but adding hot backset to your fermenter will kill your yeast, so allow the backset to cool if you use this method.

Next, add this mixture of sugar and cooled backset to your fermenter which already contains 3-3/4 gallons of water. This will bring your total beer volume back to 5 gallons.

Now is the time to make sure you have removed and replaced any spent corn kernels which float to the top of the fermenter. You only need to do this if you plan on a continual ferment, that is, past 7 or 8 fermentations at which point your corn would otherwise be expended.

Cover the fermenter and let it ferment for another 3-4 days or until the ebullition ends.

Congratulations, if you have done everything properly you are now ready to run your first sour mash!

! ! ! ! ! Continued Next Pagep

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Second Run

Siphon off your beer and charge your still. Again, replace 3-3/4 gallons of water into your fermenter so your yeast doesn't die while you distill.

Distill your whiskey in the same manner you did during your first run, being conservative with your cuts until you gain more skill. Anything collected under 80% ABV on this run is considered a Sour Mash whiskey. Congratulations! This spirit is a palatable moonshine when collected directly out of the still.

Collect your run down to your stopping point. Again, I recommend 70% ABV for beginners, perhaps a few degrees into the 60's if you are bold. Save all of the spirit run as good sippin' whiskey.

Most moonshiners keep running their stills long after they are finished with the spirit run, collecting down to about 20% ABV before stopping. Together, the heads and tails are reused as feints. I do not normally go as low as 20%, you'll have to find your comfort zone. If you start to get blue or green flecks in your spirit, you've gone too far or run things too hot.

Repeat the Process

After your run, collect 1-1/4 gallons of backset to return to the fermenter for your next batch. Repeat the process starting at the Second Fermentation.

You are now producing a simple sour mash whiskey and with practice you will be able to produce a very high quality moonshine. Age this whiskey in an uncharred oak barrel to produce a traditional Tennessee-style whiskey.

Yee- Ha...ya dun it !

The Path to Whiskey is Paved in Vodka.

To me, Whiskey is the holy grail of beverages. Making a truly good Whiskey can be daunting in the beginning, this is how I enjoyed my trials and minimized my errors. Whiskey is a beverage with limitless complexity and combinations of flavors. To access and understand these flavors I recommend starting with vodka. All grain vodka, in most circles, is considered to be the crème of the crop. Though it is a “neutral” spirit, making all grain vodka can help tell you where all these flavors come from.

In order to efficiently make a neutral spirit most of us need to make at least a few runs. Throughout these runs make sure to taste the distillate and remember those flavors, even take a few notes. On the path from stripping to polishing and even filtering to diluting you’ll find everything you need to make the Whiskey you desire.

Start by making batches of vodka with every ingredient you can get your hands on. While crafting Speakeasy Vodka I went through dozens of combinations before I discovered that magic equilibrium of taste. My journey led me through red wheat and white wheat, 6-row wheat, 2-row barley, dark rye, light rye, flaked rye, cracked corn, flaked maize, sorghum, corn sugar, demerara sugar, molasses, and the list went on until I found my Organic Heirloom Rye from a small farm in Western Washington. To simplify I’d recommend trying different combos of rye, wheat, corn, and barley including malts and flakes of each. These are the most common whiskey ingredients and will give you plenty to work with.

Once you’ve got a notion for the flavors these grains have hidden inside you’re ready to start playing with oak, but that’s a topic for another day. Have fun, be safe, and enjoy!

This month we are privileged to have Whitney D Meriwether join us . Whitney is the head distiller at Meriwether distilling company situated in Georgetown Seattle. He is an innovator and a leading light amongst modern distillers.

Whitney D MeriwetherHead DistillerMeriwether Distilling CoSeattle.

The New StillDragon 120 liter boiler, features 3 heating ports a manhole, sight glass and 4 inch or 6 inch tri-clamp column take off.

StillDragon recently announced a new series of boilers, to complement their range of dash stills, standard sizes includes the 120 liter (pictured) which is a perfect size for the serious home distiller...being within the boiling range of two 15 amp circuits. the usual attention to detail sees viewing ports and ports for up to three elements. which means that power loads can be split to different circuits.

New Boilers Released

Odds & Ends

Making a fragrant Vodkasmell the rosesBy Kilgore Trout

MODERNDISTILLER

modern distiller member

New release fromModern Distiller

I have of late been specializing in a very soft vodka I call floral vodka. It is really simple and very popular it it is made on a simple tomato paste wash with a small amount of Di-ammonium Phosphate and citric acid. the secret to the cleanest wash possible is a good yeast...no, a great yeast...EC 1118, the yeast that made Dom Perignon great...it is slow, Give at least two weeks for it to bring out its unique floral profile...longer if you can. a simple pot strip...then a very careful spirit run, I use a six plate bubble cap...slow is the trick.what you are after is hearts only. Small and regular cuts are the way to go...after a while you will notice a floral nose and taste, this is what you are looking for, carefully cut till this effect, the floral hearts stop, either side of this is vodka... the floral hearts of this run is super premium vodka put this aside it will be some of the best vodka you have ever tasted

What follows here is tried and proven methodology for getting maximum efficiency from an Airstill. The Airstill is a very small, basic but functional 'Compromise Pot Still'.

I call it a 'Compromise Pot Still ' because, although it's ingenious, it's a trade-off to accomplish certain things. Certain elements of traditional still design have been 'modified' in order to make it small, simple to use, affordable and accessible to the ordinary man or woman in the street.

by

Aidanmac

The Dalek’s of Distilling

the AIRSTILL

These likable little fella’s haveintroduced a whole new generation of people to the pleasure of distilling now follow Aidanmac’s method for

making the very best of thesebench top beauties.

Aidan is an accomplished distiller from the north of England...his knowledge of the Airstill has made his opinions highly regarded on the modern distiller, and StillSmart forums, you will find him on either of these sites if you have questions.

It's small size makes it ideal as a starter still for beginners; for those who just want to make small batches; and for those who have limited space to operate a still, etc.. Despite the fact that I run a 50lt Pot these days, I still have my Airstill and use it regularly to test recipes on a small scale before committing valuable resources.

While its compact design has benefits it also creates some problems and serious limitations, most obviously its 4lt capacity which makes processing a 25lt Wash very labour intensive, and the fact that the operator has no control over the unit other than to switch it on and off.

It Really Works – but Slowly

Despite the problems and limitations I can state categorically, without fear of contradiction, that if you stick to some basic rules and principles you can make very good quality spirit with this equipment – albeit slowly.

Potential Serious Problem

Without question, the most serious problem with the Airstill, created by the design compromise, is the risk, small as it is, of Puking which is potentially dangerous and must be avoided at all costs.

Puking is where the Wash being boiled starts to surge boil and this creates giant super-bubbles and foam within the boiler. In a larger still this will cause flooding of the riser and, if unchecked, can end up with foam and Wash running through the product condenser – a PITA – messy, time consuming to correct but not dangerous, so for most distillers using standard designs it's a regrettable inconvenience.

When an Airstill pukes, the condenser tube in the lid, which is the compromise to the riser and condenser on a larger pot still, is too small to take the rapidly expanding, heaving mass of boiling liquid and foam created by the Puke and so, the lid gets blown off. In the worst case, the boiling Wash gets ejected, volcano style, into the room and will scald anything it touches not to mention the danger of flying liquid contacting your electrics.

Prevention of Puking starts with Boil Enhancers, such as Ceramic Saddles, Copper Mesh etc., while these are a must in an Airstill and will help prevent a Puke they will not completely eliminate the possibility on their own.

Before anyone goes chucking their Airstill out the window I have to add that Puking is rare and many users, me included, have run Airstills without incident for years – I've only ever had one Puke and I was lucky.

That said, puking is a genuine potential problem which should not be ignored on the basis that“Sure that hardly ever happens!” because if it happens to you once it may be once too often AND seeing as it's absolutely avoidable and virtually cost free it would be foolish not to take the necessary steps to avoid it happening to you and your family.

There are three stages of preparing a Wash that will ensure you NEVER experience an Airstill Puke.

Operating the Airstill by Aidanmac member modern distiller forum

1. Degas the Wash Properly 2. Clear the Wash 3. Use Distillers Conditioner on the Stripping Run.

Sounds simple, doesn't it? These are things that everyone does, the use of Conditioner may not be so universal particularly with larger stills. However, to completely neutralize the potential threat of puking in an Airstill these three stages have to be taken to a degree that's just not necessary in larger stills – again, this is as a result of the design compromise. If you're running an Airstill these are things you need to make into your standard routine, things you do automatically every time, without fail and without having to think about it.

The Wash recipe/type does not affect the running of the Airstill but the condition of the finished Wash absolutely does affect the operation of the still and the quality of the final output.

Degassing and Clearing the Wash

Once your Wash is finished fermenting you need to seriously degas it two or three times to remove all CO2. The Airstill does not like CO2 in the Wash and it is a major contributor to puking.

Every brewer knows that degassing is crucial to getting a wine or beer crystal clear before it's fit for drinking. In the distilling world it's not considered so important as we won't be drinking the brew and distillers routinely clear the Wash to a certain point to remove the heavy solids but most don't try to get the Wash totally cleared because in larger stills it's not an absolute necessity.

In a perfect world, Wash would be crystal clear, no residual unfermented sugars, no starches, no Sulphide's, etc., – in a perfect world. The tolerances in a large Pot Still are quite wide and forgiving so if the Wash doesn't meet this 'perfect' standard it's not a problem - the Airstill is a bit different.

A 'perfect' Wash isn't an absolute requirement but, as a result of the design compromise, users of the Airstill, in order to positively exclude the possibility of Puking, must strive for substantially cleaner, clearer Wash than those using larger boilers. This just requires a little more work and time clearing the Wash but every cloud has a silver lining this too has an upside.

A beneficial side effect of achieving a cleaner, clearer Wash is that maximum efficiency from the Airstill becomes an achievable target. So, getting the Wash as clear as possible is more than desirable and complete degassing is critical as CO2 supports suspended solids in a Wash.

A further reason for getting the Wash as clear and clean as possible is that, in the confines of the small Airstill boiler with such a small volume of liquid, any suspended solids will add off flavors and create unpredictable effects when heated and will definitely NOT add anything desirable to your finished spirits.

Operating the Airstill by Aidanmac member modern distiller forum

Continued

Clean and clear – what exactly does that mean?

As a general guide, a 25lt Wash is cleared sufficiently for Stripping in the Airstill if you can see to the bottom of the fermenter. Once it reaches this level of clarity you can safely Rack & Run.

Crystal clear Wash, pictured above, is not necessary although, it should be noted, that the clearer you can get the Wash before putting it in any still the cleaner and more pleasant your final spirit will be and this is especially true of the Airstill.

Why use Distiller's Conditioner?

Always use Distillers Conditioner on each 4lt batch of the Stripping Run. This magic additive breaks down the surface tension of the liquid and prevents bubbles/foam from forming. It will not add any flavors or smells and when I add it to my Airstill I use a small SS hand whisk to ensure it is distributed throughout the still charge, this also makes sure there is no residual CO2 in the Wash.

Distiller's Conditioner is only used on the Stripping Run and would serve no purpose on the Spirit Run as all the elements that could potentially cause Puking have already been removed from the Wash.

This brings us to what appears to be a contentious point with a small number of people.

The Airstill, as a very small, basic but functional 'Compromise Pot Still' is just not physically capable of producing high quality, drinking spirit from a single run of any Wash through that still. This is not to insult or upset anyone, it's just plain fact – not opinion – FACT!

If the Airstill design was capable of producing high quality drinking spirit from a single run then all pot stills would be modified to that design specification!

I have elsewhere labelled the product of the first run from the Airstill as being 'not fit for human consumption' because it's nothing more than cleaned up wash or Low Wines as we normally refer to them.

While I stand by that label I'd like to clarify that in doing so I am not suggesting that the product of the first run is poisonous or specifically dangerous in any way, that's NOT the case but rather that the product is not sufficiently purified by the compromise distillation process, inherent in the Airstill design, to be fit for consumption at that point – it's incomplete & only part distilled.

It's a bit like part-cooked chicken – you can eat it if you want and you may not have any ill effects but we all know why you should never eat chicken that's not properly and thoroughly cooked and the same safety concern attaches to alcohol that is not yet clean enough to drink.

OperatingAnAirstill Like a Pro

ByAidanmac

Perhaps the problem stems from the fact that we put pretty murky looking liquid into the Airstill and with one run crystal clear liquid comes out the other end leading some people to the mistaken conclusion that it's clean and pure enough to drink. Couple this with some very strong flavoring and you'll never notice the difference!

As a direct result of the truncated, 'compromise' design of the Airstill and the inherent inefficiency of pot stills generally, the product from a single run in the Airstill is simply cleaned up Wash and retains a huge amount of undesirable congeners smeared throughout the first product.

Bottom line, the Airstill is only capable of producing drinking quality spirit by double distilling. That means you run the Wash, 4lt at a time, and collect everything from each batch – no cuts - until the output drops to 20% - these are the Stripping Runs which produce the Low Wines from which we can distill drinkable spirits.

When it's all done and you put all the distillate collected together, measure the ABV, then dilute what you have to 30%ABV and run it through the still again, 4lt at a time, and this time make cuts to remove the fores, heads and tails – these are the Spirit Runs. If you've ever tasted the product from a single run Wash and compare it to the product from a second Spirit Run you'll never touch the single run Low Wines again.

My main still is a highly efficient 50lt Pot Still and Thumper – efficient for a Pot Still that is! When I run a Wash for the first (Stripping) run, after the first liter the output becomes very clean smelling and if I dilute a sample it tastes OK. The output from a still that size is 100% cleaner than the output from the Airstill but I wouldn't drink it because it's not sufficiently purified to be suitable for consumption either. On that basis it is simply not sustainable to suggest or to believe that product from a single run in an Airstill is of sufficient purity to be fit for consumption.

Producing a safe and enjoyable product with the Airstill is well within your reach and capacity. By following these guidelines you can produce spirits that are cleaner than commercial spirits. However, taking shortcuts, for the purpose of getting some kind of alcohol in a glass quickly to get drunk on, compromises safety – your safety – don't do it!

On the following page is a diagram I constructed that illustrates the processing of a 26lt wash (2lt get lost to the lees on racking leaving 6 X 4lt batches. This data was from a single wash I processed earlier this year (2012). I want to acknowledge Mozr on StillSmart forum who came up with the original chart layout which I borrowed (hijacked) for this diagram. The exact output achievable will vary depending on Wash clarity, actual ABV and pH of the wash.

Note: Because I've been asked this question before I'd like the clarify the the diagram does

Operate your Airstill like a ProBy Aidanmac

continued

PROCEED ON TO 2ND DISTILLATION

THE WASH

7 Kg White sugar to make a 25 Litre wash

Vodka Star Yeast.

No Tails added to stripping run

strange, those distiller folkthey sure talk funny

GLOSSARY

this is where you can learn all the weird and wonderful acronyms used by distillers...it’s like learning the secret handshake.

mod

ern

dist

iller

UJSM............................uncle jesses sour mash - a corn mash liquor

ABV..............................!alcohol by volume

REFLUX...................that distillate which condenses and passes back down the column of a still, for re-distillation.

PROOF.......................an older method of measuring ABV

SHOTGUN............... a form of condenser formed by the alcohol passing through an inner tube which is jacketed by a coolant flushed outer tube.

CONGENERS........Chemical compounds that are found in distillate apart from the alcohol which carry taste compounds both good and bad.

FEINTS...........the unused part of the distillation run largely water( also known as tails )

distillingwhere to nowBy the Doctor

MOD

ERN

DIST

ILLER When I read about the evils of drinking, I gave up reading.

Henny Youngman

As a distiller I have been amazed to watch the rapid progress in distilling techniques, which over the last decade, have led to what can only be regarded as a revolution in quality of spirits being made by the hobbyist craft distiller. I have taken much joy from the hobby and much of what I have learned, has contributed to my knowledge of other areas in which I am employed, wine making and brewing. Our Hobby is at a crossroads, it is still illegal in almost all countries...except New Zealand. The experience in New Zealand, has provided hope for the rest of us. If we can rid the hobby of the red-neck image it has in some quarters and promote instead the craft aspects. I believe we have a chance of change on a larger scale. The New Zealand experience also gives some firm support for our ambitions and aims. I have included here a document that I found whilst browsing the internet, it touched me as being a heart felt and reasonable summation of the situation...It is un-credited as it was unsigned as so much of the information on distilling is...and more the shame, it is well reasoned and sincere. I thought about whether to publish it here but felt that the Author had, by making it public online shown that it was a message for all and should remain in the public domain.Here it is for your consideration.Doc

......When considering the possibility of making or buying a small still for the production of spirits at home, or even reading about it, people need to feel comfortable about it. There are two concerns: one is the possible danger to health while the other is the question of legality. In a separate menu item we discuss health matter quite thoroughly and show that there is not the slightest danger. In the present section we discuss the question of legality.

......The first thing to appreciate is that the law on home distillation is based on a completely false premise, a false premise resulting from misinformation fed to politicians and civil servants. They are seldom chemists, biotechnicians or chemical engineers and cannot be expected to be knowledgeable on a technical subject, so they simply parrot what has been handed down to them by previous generations. However, the advent of the Internet enable you and millions of people like you worldwide to understand the subject of distillation so well that you can no longer be fobbed off with myth, folklore and childish superstition.

......What is this mythology and folklore and what are the facts? We'll deal with them individually and in point order.

Legal Considerationsby Anon

1. Myth.2.

....Fact..

2. Myth.

....Fact..

3. Myth.

....Fact..

Distillation makes a particularly strong and virulent type of alcohol so must be controlled.

Distillation doesn't make alcohol. It never has, never will, and is incapable of doing so. This .is worth repeating ----distillation doesn't make alcohol. Alcohol is made by fermentation, a perfectly harmless pursuit as millions of beer- and wine-makers will testify.

Distillation produces stronger alcohol (this is true), and the stronger the alcohol the more likely it is to affect your health and lead to drunkenness and unruly behavior (this is the myth). Therefore it must be controlled.

Alcohol strength is irrelevant. It is the quantity of alcohol consumed which matters, witness the fact that 85% of people pulled over for drinking and driving have been drinking beer, not spirits. The same goes for the hooliganism at sporting events so common in Europe ---the fans drink can-after-can-after-can-after-can of 5% beer until the quantity consumed adds up to a large amount of alcohol. (This is not meant as a criticism of beer-drinkers, we love beer,-----it merely points to the irrelevancy of alcohol strength.

Making it legal for amateurs to distill spirits would lead to a loss of sales by commercial distillers, the laying-off of employees, and loss of tax revenue to the government.

To be cynical about it, a potential loss of tax revenue is a very powerful motivating force.with governments and the most likely reason for the ban on home distilling. The fact is that in.New Zealand, in the years leading up to the lifting of the ban (1996) sales of spirits had been steadily declining. The same is true of many other countries. But in New Zealand, as.soon as amateurs were free to distill their own spirits there was an immediate rise in.commercial sales. (And also a rise in tax revenues of course).

The reason for this surprising turn of events is attributed to the upsurge in interest in spirits which occurred as soon as it became a hobby. It was no longer a remote commercial enterprise but something for fun-loving youth and hobbyists to get their teeth into.

...The realization that hobby distilling poses no more problems than beer-making and wine-making, and should be afforded exactly the same rights and freedoms without fear of prosecution, has been slow to come about but is finally taking hold. New Zealand led the way in 1996 but other countries undoubtedly will follow suit as soon as the light dawns.

......The most important example of this trend, a very significant trend, can be found in the United States where a bill is currently before Congress --- (Bill H.R. 3249) designed to legalize home distilling. It was sponsored by Representative Bart Stupak of Michigan and has been referred to the Ways and Means committee. Its progress can be followed by reference to http://thomas.loc.gov/home/thomas.html

.. .. So------ a lifting of the ban is quite likely to occur in the near future, and those of you who have a yen to indulge in this hobby can start to feel quite comfortable at the thought. It is no longer a heinous crime on a par with mugging old ladies and child abuse. Governments are finally waking up to the fact that it is a perfectly innocuous activity (which might even bring in a little tax revenue!) so if you anticipate the actual date of legalization by a day or two it would be quite understandable.

the modern distiller

About this MagazineThis magazine grew as an extension of the modern distiller forum. It occurred to me that every other hobby in the world has a flagship magazine except ours,. we have great forums to go to but no single flagship. The publication you have just read is not for profit...all articles were written by people who simply love the craft, their time given freely. The advertising is free and reflects the work, encouragement and contributions made, to getting this venture off the ground...Firstly I wish to say a heartfelt thank you to those who have given their time without reserve. And to ask that you the readers consider contributing to future issues....Only with the generous contribution of articles and encouragement will something like this keep going. I hope that their will be many more issues...but that is up to you the readers...If you can just write a few words about your experiences distilling, ideas tips or just how you discovered this craft...all will be welcome.To give feedback or become a part of the community who created this magazine go to.

www.moderndistiller.com

I assure you you will be made welcome. and remember there are many excellent forums apart from ours out there so look out for them. Good examples are www.stillsmart.co.uk/forum/ andhttp://www.artisan-distiller.net

the doctors videos

If you want to see distilling practices in full HD video have a look at the Doctors training videos, these are designed to encourage you to take your distilling to new levels.the videos can be seen here.

http://www.moderndistiller.com/page7/index.html

These are just the beginning of a series of videos designed to complement the magazine and forum. I Hope you have enjoyed the magazine and videos. Please give feedback.Remember I do not know it all...the most I can do like everyone is share what knowledge I do have...enjoy your distilling and be safe.Doc

the Doctor

the Doctor