The J-LowDimensioned Drawings • Panel Schedule & Cut List • Assembly Diagrams

Dimensioned DrawingsD

3/4

"27

7/8"

6"23

/4"

345/

8"

3/4

"23

5/8"

55/8

"33

/4"

41/2

"33

/4"

72"

233/4" 251/4"

72"

30"

6"6"

30"

117/8" 117/8"

21/8" 43/8" 55/8"

111/

4"12

1/4"

21/8

"

291/

4"12

"29

1/4"

111/4" 113/4"

5" 101/2" 13/8"

45°

135°

135° 135°

If you have access to a minimal number of wood working tools, these cabinets are quite easy to build. While they can be constructed with rebate joints or biscuits, we have designed a simple way to assemble the parts by using a small number of simple miters and butt joints. We used 3/4" oak veneered MDF, but just about any material will do. The following list is what you will need to build a pair of cabinets:

A. (2) Jordan JX-92S drivers and enough speaker wire to run from the driver to the amplifier.B. (5) 4" x 8' sheets of 3/4" material and iron-on edge banding if you choose veneered material.C. A bottle of yellow wood glue.D. A handfull of drywall screws and rope caulk (for mounting the drivers).E. A roll of clear packaging tape (to help align the miters).F. A table saw and a jig saw (or someone who will cut the parts for you).G. A few clamps or heavy weights, such as cans of paint or tubs of cat litter.H. A cordless drill and an assortment of bits.J. The strength of Hercules (if you use 3/4" MDF).

D1

Front View641

302

762

19 19302

152

152

1829

762

19

Side View

708

54

153

305

743

1959

9

14411154

126 36267

28719 297

287

312

7087

9

9511

495

144

1829

743

603

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Panel Schedule & Cut ListP

233/4" 233/4"

48"

951/

4"

23"

72"RSLS

BM BM

P1

603

1219

603

584

2419

1829

Miter Angle

23 3/4

90

2

2

2

2

23 3/4

23 3/4

23 3/4

23

72

72

23

603

603

603

603

584

584

1829

1829

90

90

90

90

90

90

90

90

90

90

90

Panel QtyWidth(inches)

1 2 3 4Height Width Height(degrees) (degrees) (degrees) (degrees)(inches) (mm) (mm)

TP

BM

LS

RS

90

90

90

90

Dimensions*

* all dimensions are to outside of miter

1 3

4

2P2

8"72

"

2"

3" 43/8

"43

/8"

16"

73/4

"73

/4"

101/

2"2"

12"

3"8"

233/4"

96"

16"

101/

2"

233/4"

48"

FB

4.5"ø Cutout

Centered

BK A1

A1

A2

A2

A3A3

B1

B1

B3B3

B2

B2

SP

SP

P3

1829

197

203

2438

406

305

111

7676

406

603 603

1219

111

267

5119

751

267

203

Panel Miter Angle

90

* all dimensions are to outside of miter

Qty

1 3

4

2

Width(inches)

1 2 3 4Height Width Height(degrees) (degrees) (degrees) (degrees)(inches) (mm) (mm)

23 3/4

90

Dimensions*

90

BK

90

90 90

90

45

22.5

22.5

90

90

90

22.5

22.5

90

23 3/4

23 3/4

23 3/4

7 3/4

10 1/2

2

4

4

4

603

603

603

197

267

51

A1

A2

A3

B2

B1

B3

90

90

90

22.5

22.5

22.5

90

90

90

22.5

22.5

90

23 3/4

23 3/4

8

4 3/8

3

4

4

4

603

603

603

203

111

76

90 9023 3/4 722 603 1829

22.5 90 22.523 3/4 12 603 3052FB

45 90 4523 3/4 164 603 406SP

P4

83/4"83/4" 83/4" 23/4"

101/

2"10

1/2"

101/

2"10

1/2"

48"

83/4"

48"

201/

2"20

1/2"

93/4

"31

/2"

33/4

"

33/8" 53/8"

97/8

"

51/4"

223

87

Miter Angle

TT

SB

SB

SB

SB

TT

TT

TT

TT

TT

TT

TT

TT

SB

1 3

2

4

4

2

Panel QtyWidth(inches)

1 2 3 4Height Width Height(degrees) (degrees) (degrees) (degrees)(inches) (mm) (mm)

Dimensions*

90

90 90

90 90

90222 90

90

20 1/2

4

8

2 3/4

8 3/4

10 1/2 70

521

267

* all dimensions are to outside of miter

(all angular cuts are 45º)

520

520

223 223

31

P5

8995

251

136

249

1219

267

134

223 70

1219

267

267

267

A Assembly Diagrams

A2

90º

A1

A3

TT

LS

Lay a side panel on your workbench and locate the throat template (TT) in the orientation shown. Make sure it's installed 3/4" (19 mm) from the back edge and 28 5/8" (727 mm) from the bottom edge. Glue into place. Using the template as a guide, glue the mitered edges of blue Series A components (A1, A2 & A3) together one at a time as shown below. Use clear packing tape to hold the joints together on the outside of the miter. The clear tape will aid in the alignment procedure, as well as allowing you to visually verify that the glue has flowed into the entire joint. Make sure that the three pieces fit snugly against the throat template, the miters are tight and the three A panels are perpendicular to the side panel.

A1

B2

LS

B1

B3

Next, glue up the red B Series pieces using the throat template as a guide. Verify that the corner of B1 is 30" (762 mm) from the bottom and flush with the outside edge of the side panel.A2

LS

Glue the red and blue interior partitions to the throat template that's already attached to the left side panel. If you have clamps, clamp the assembly, if not place a piece of scrap across the red and blue assemblies and weight them down. When the glue has cured, install the second throat template (TT) on top as shown.

A3

TT

LS

A4 Build a mirror-imaged second assembly using the same measurements, only this time take them from the top of the side panel.

LS

CS

CS

A5 Glue the Chamber Spacers (CS) into place as shown.

LS

FB

A6Glue the front baffle in place as shown. Make sure it is flush with the front edge of the side panel. If you didn't pre-cut the driver opening, mark the front baffle and cut a 4 1/2" diameter (114 mm) circular opening.

BK

LS

Glue the back into place, flush with the outside edge of the side panel, top and bottom. A7

BM

BK

LS

TP

Glue the bottom and top to the side and back panels, making sure they are vertical.A8

SP

SP

TP

BM

LS

BK

BM

A9 Install the strike plates (SP) in the locations shown.

RS

Glue the right side panel (RS) to finish the cabinet. If you have clamps, use them. If not, weight the side panel down with what ever you have handy. Once the glue has cured, drill a hole in the back panel directly opposite the driver opening for the speaker cable. Finish sand the entire cabinet and iron on the edge banding. The final finish is your choice. We used Watco oil.

Once the oil has cured, get a fork lift, or five stout teenagers to move the cabinet into your listening area. Mark the hole locations for the driver, and drill pilot holes. Solder the speaker cable of your choice to the driver, then feed the cable through the hole in the rear of the cabinet. Stuff liberally with dacron and mount the driver with drywall screws. Connect the cable to your favorite amp, flip on the power and Bob's your uncle.

0A1