The Insatiable Lens Issue 02 - Rogue!
32
An exclusive look into the most secretive Issue 02 2016 dining society in St. Louis. BY JONATHAN GAYMAN PHOTOGRAPHY
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This issue features a glimpse into the Rogue Underground Dining Society in St. Louis. Beautiful Food Photography by St. Louis Photographer Jonathan Gayman.
Transcript of The Insatiable Lens Issue 02 - Rogue!
An exclusive look into the most secretive
Issue 02 2016
dining society in St. Louis.
B Y J O N AT H A N G AY M A NP H O T O G R A P H Y
All photography by Jonathan Gayman. Food Styling for this issue by The Rogue Chefs
Layout and design by Pak Creative www.pakcreative.com
www.jonathangayman.com
From the Editor ................................................. 5
Twenty Rogue Facts ...................................... 8
D E P A R T M E N T S
The Sweet Spot .......................................................24Raspberry Lavender Trifle
Last Call .......................................................................28Tequila and Tea Cocktail
The Rules The first rule is ... you don’t talk about the Rogue Underground Dining Society...
ON THE COVERRogue Turns 50
The Rogue Chefs host their fiftieth underground dinner with a twist:
Guests create the menu when they arrive!
Underground RecipesThe Rogue Chefs share guidelines for cooking at home that read like a beat poem and form the framework for culinary discovery!
shhhh!
Issue 02 2016
r o g u e
table of contents
6
1126
from the ed itor
Issue 02 2016 www.jonathangayman.com 5
SAFE HOUSE MEETINGS, SUBTERFUGE, CLANDESTINE operations … no, this isn’t a spy thriller or conflict reportage. All of this intrigue is for something much less dangerous, but equally as exciting: dinner! But this dinner is special. It is a super secretive Rogue dinner!
I first met the Rogue Chefs through mutual friends at a house party, shortly after my wife and I moved to St. Louis in 2010. It seems we made a favorable impression, because shortly thereafter we received our invitation to join the Rogue Underground Dining Society. After attending several events, a year later we hosted a Rogue event at my studio. It was an amazing evening: strange and wonderful food, the allure of doing something a tiny bit outside of the law, and most of all an introduction to a wonderful community of folks who love good food, good drink, and good people. Not to mention the joy of watching talented chefs prepare a 12 course meal in the studio’s kitchen.
In early 2015, I shared a copy of The Insatiable Lens with Chef K. He immediately asked if I wanted to do an issue about Rogue. Of course I said yes. His only request was that we keep the identities of the Rogue Chefs secret. This proved to be a challenging endeavor; after all, how do you photograph people that do not want to be iden-tified and an event that isn’t supposed to be happening? It was definitely a challenge, but a really fun project.
The result, after months of busy schedules, delays, and complications, is the Rogue issue of The Insatiable Lens. The chefs generously invited me to cover one of their events (page 11), and for the first time in public, they share the rules they have set for the Society (page 6), and of course a few recipes (page 26). What they are not sharing? Their identities or contact information. If you want to join the Rogue Underground Dining
Society, well, you’re going to have to do a little research on your own. In the words of Chef K., “A little digging will help us know if they are sincere.”
Remember, if you do manage to score an invitation … the first rule of the Rogue Underground Dining
Society is … you do not talk about the Rogue Underground Dining Society!
Shhhh...
Jonathan Gayman Photographer & Editor in Chief
Jonathan Gayman is an editorial and commercial food & beverage photographer based in the Midwest. He is a regular contributor to epicurean publications and his work has appeared in advertising and marketing materials for clients located all over the U.S. When he’s not on the road for location shoots, he works in his studio in downtown St. Louis.
The first rule about the Rogue Underground
Dining Society is...
#ONE: SILENCE IS GOLDENThe Rogue Underground Dining Society is like Fight Club. You don’t talk about Rogue. We have survived this long because pretty much everyone we deal with has stuck to this rule. Our policy on telling other people is “please don’t do it” but there is only so much we can control. If people spill the beans, oh well.
#TWO: GRANDMA ’S RULEYou may encounter foods you are not familiar with. Some may even weird you out a little. However, we ask that you at least take one bite of everything. Trust us. Someone else will eat what you do not.
#THREE: DON ’T STAND ON CEREMONYEat when the food hits your table. Do not wait for anyone else. Eat now or forever hold your peace.
#FOUR: COMMUNITYSupport this society. Give back. Share what you can. We always need new spaces to do events. People have donated bread, wine, desserts, and most importantly: time. We have people who have designed and given us t-shirts. We have a photographer who has given us countless and tireless hours of photographs. All of our kitchen and service staff (which we believe is the best in the city) are volunteers whose ranks are mostly filled by guests who have been at past events. Be communal.
rule sFirst, there are the
Because we can. B Y T H E R O G U E C H E F S
6 www.jonathangayman.com Issue 02 2016
The Rogue Chefs in their “prep area” at Brennan’s in St. Louis, working on a game plan to execute eleven recipes on the fly.
rule s
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 10 11
Rog
ue w
as c
reat
ed in
Oct
ober
200
9.
We
have
hos
ted
50 o
ffici
al e
vent
s pl
us a
noth
er
7 un
offic
ial e
vent
s.
We
have
bee
n at
a to
tal o
f 38
diffe
rent
loca
tion
s in
St.
Loui
s.
Rog
ue #
1 to
ok p
lace
at a
fully
ope
rati
onal
trai
n st
atio
n. T
he
only
am
enit
y w
as o
ne s
mal
l sin
k w
ith
cold
run
ning
wat
er,
and
we
serv
ed d
inne
r in
the
mid
st o
f arr
ivin
g an
d de
part
ing
pass
enge
rs.
Othe
r in
tere
stin
g lo
cati
ons:
win
e sh
ops,
bre
wer
ies,
vet
clin
ic,
sex
cafe
, mus
eum
, sta
ge o
f a th
eatr
e, w
iner
y, c
onve
rted
fune
ral
hom
e, c
olle
ge c
ampu
s.
We
once
re-
crea
ted
an e
ntir
e Su
gar
Shac
k co
mpl
ete
wit
h 20
feet
of
sca
ffold
ing
in a
n ab
ando
ned
war
ehou
se.
We
once
had
to c
hang
e th
e lo
cati
on 3
tim
es o
nly
days
bef
ore
an
even
t bec
ause
of c
ircu
mst
ance
s.
We
have
ser
ved
mor
e th
an 2
00 d
ishe
s an
d ha
ve n
ever
re
peat
ed a
sin
gle
one.
We
serv
e on
ave
rage
8-1
1 co
urse
per
din
ner
to 2
0-24
gue
sts.
We
once
did
a d
inne
r w
ith
25 c
ours
es.
We
once
had
to s
teal
a B
BQ
pit f
rom
an
unsu
spec
ting
nei
ghbo
ur
to c
ompl
ete
a di
nner
whe
n th
e ov
en w
e w
ere
wor
king
. on
wen
t out
.
The
smal
lest
kit
chen
we
wor
ked
in w
as 3
by
8 fo
ot ..
. ou
r bi
gges
t had
8 w
ork
stat
ions
.
We
wer
e on
ce to
ld th
at w
e sh
ould
ser
ve m
ore
Fren
ch w
ines
at a
di
nner
. Tha
t gue
st w
as to
ld th
ey n
eed
not r
etur
n to
an
y fu
ture
eve
nt.
We
end
up c
ooki
ng w
hat w
e w
ant t
o co
ok n
o
mat
ter
wha
t the
them
e.
Favo
rite
them
e? C
adav
re e
squi
sse,
Dad
a G
ame.
You
get w
hat y
ou g
et a
t Rog
ue. Y
ou d
on’t
know
loca
tion
unt
il a
few
day
s be
fore
the
even
t (so
met
imes
we
don’
t) a
nd y
ou d
on’t
know
men
u ti
ll yo
u sh
ow u
p th
at n
ight
.
If y
ou d
on’t
show
up
or c
ance
l las
t min
ute
you
are
im
med
iate
ly ta
ken
off R
ogue
list
.
Spec
ial d
iete
ry n
eeds
: A
re. Y
ou. K
iddi
ng?!
Ther
e is
ALW
AY
S an
aft
er p
arty
and
eve
ryon
e in
clud
ing
the
gues
ts a
re in
vite
d. W
hen
you
hear
Mic
hael
Jac
kson
on
the
juke
th
ough
, it’s
tim
e to
leav
e.
Rog
ue w
as c
reat
ed in
Oct
ober
200
9.
We
have
hos
ted
50 o
ffici
al e
vent
s pl
us a
noth
er
7 un
offic
ial e
vent
s.
We
have
bee
n at
a to
tal o
f 38
diffe
rent
loca
tion
s in
St.
Loui
s.
Rog
ue #
1 to
ok p
lace
at a
fully
ope
rati
onal
trai
n st
atio
n. T
he
only
am
enit
y w
as o
ne s
mal
l sin
k w
ith
cold
run
ning
wat
er,
and
we
serv
ed d
inne
r in
the
mid
st o
f arr
ivin
g an
d de
part
ing
pass
enge
rs.
Othe
r in
tere
stin
g lo
cati
ons:
win
e sh
ops,
bre
wer
ies,
vet
clin
ic,
sex
cafe
, mus
eum
, sta
ge o
f a th
eatr
e, w
iner
y, c
onve
rted
fune
ral
hom
e, c
olle
ge c
ampu
s.
We
once
re-
crea
ted
an e
ntir
e Su
gar
Shac
k co
mpl
ete
wit
h 20
feet
of
sca
ffold
ing
in a
n ab
ando
ned
war
ehou
se.
We
once
had
to c
hang
e th
e lo
cati
on 3
tim
es o
nly
days
bef
ore
an
even
t bec
ause
of c
ircu
mst
ance
s.
We
have
ser
ved
mor
e th
an 2
00 d
ishe
s an
d ha
ve n
ever
re
peat
ed a
sin
gle
one.
We
serv
e on
ave
rage
8-1
1 co
urse
per
din
ner
to 2
0-24
gue
sts.
We
once
did
a d
inne
r w
ith
25 c
ours
es.
We
once
had
to s
teal
a B
BQ
pit f
rom
an
unsu
spec
ting
nei
ghbo
ur
to c
ompl
ete
a di
nner
whe
n th
e ov
en w
e w
ere
wor
king
. on
wen
t out
.
The
smal
lest
kit
chen
we
wor
ked
in w
as 3
by
8 fo
ot ..
. ou
r bi
gges
t had
8 w
ork
stat
ions
.
We
wer
e on
ce to
ld th
at w
e sh
ould
ser
ve m
ore
Fren
ch w
ines
at a
di
nner
. Tha
t gue
st w
as to
ld th
ey n
eed
not r
etur
n to
an
y fu
ture
eve
nt.
We
end
up c
ooki
ng w
hat w
e w
ant t
o co
ok n
o
mat
ter
wha
t the
them
e.
Favo
rite
them
e? C
adav
re e
squi
sse,
Dad
a G
ame.
You
get w
hat y
ou g
et a
t Rog
ue. Y
ou d
on’t
know
loca
tion
unt
il a
few
day
s be
fore
the
even
t (so
met
imes
we
don’
t) a
nd y
ou d
on’t
know
men
u ti
ll yo
u sh
ow u
p th
at n
ight
.
If y
ou d
on’t
show
up
or c
ance
l las
t min
ute
you
are
im
med
iate
ly ta
ken
off R
ogue
list
.
Spec
ial d
iete
ry n
eeds
: A
re. Y
ou. K
iddi
ng?!
Ther
e is
ALW
AY
S an
aft
er p
arty
and
eve
ryon
e in
clud
ing
the
gues
ts a
re in
vite
d. W
hen
you
hear
Mic
hael
Jac
kson
on
the
juke
th
ough
, it’s
tim
e to
leav
e.
9
Foie
Gra
s h
as b
een
serv
ed a
t eac
h an
d ev
ery
Rog
ue e
vent
. Fo
ie G
ras
has
bee
n se
rved
at e
ach
and
ever
y R
ogue
eve
nt.
20 TH
ING
SY
OU
NO
W K
NO
W
12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20
Rog
ue w
as c
reat
ed in
Oct
ober
200
9.
We
have
hos
ted
50 o
ffici
al e
vent
s pl
us a
noth
er
7 un
offic
ial e
vent
s.
We
have
bee
n at
a to
tal o
f 38
diffe
rent
loca
tion
s in
St.
Loui
s.
Rog
ue #
1 to
ok p
lace
at a
fully
ope
rati
onal
trai
n st
atio
n. T
he
only
am
enit
y w
as o
ne s
mal
l sin
k w
ith
cold
run
ning
wat
er,
and
we
serv
ed d
inne
r in
the
mid
st o
f arr
ivin
g an
d de
part
ing
pass
enge
rs.
Othe
r in
tere
stin
g lo
cati
ons:
win
e sh
ops,
bre
wer
ies,
vet
clin
ic,
sex
cafe
, mus
eum
, sta
ge o
f a th
eatr
e, w
iner
y, c
onve
rted
fune
ral
hom
e, c
olle
ge c
ampu
s.
We
once
re-
crea
ted
an e
ntir
e Su
gar
Shac
k co
mpl
ete
wit
h 20
feet
of
sca
ffold
ing
in a
n ab
ando
ned
war
ehou
se.
We
once
had
to c
hang
e th
e lo
cati
on 3
tim
es o
nly
days
bef
ore
an
even
t bec
ause
of c
ircu
mst
ance
s.
We
have
ser
ved
mor
e th
an 2
00 d
ishe
s an
d ha
ve n
ever
re
peat
ed a
sin
gle
one.
We
serv
e on
ave
rage
8-1
1 co
urse
per
din
ner
to 2
0-24
gue
sts.
We
once
did
a d
inne
r w
ith
25 c
ours
es.
We
once
had
to s
teal
a B
BQ
pit f
rom
an
unsu
spec
ting
nei
ghbo
ur
to c
ompl
ete
a di
nner
whe
n th
e ov
en w
e w
ere
wor
king
. on
wen
t out
.
The
smal
lest
kit
chen
we
wor
ked
in w
as 3
by
8 fo
ot ..
. ou
r bi
gges
t had
8 w
ork
stat
ions
.
We
wer
e on
ce to
ld th
at w
e sh
ould
ser
ve m
ore
Fren
ch w
ines
at a
di
nner
. Tha
t gue
st w
as to
ld th
ey n
eed
not r
etur
n to
an
y fu
ture
eve
nt.
We
end
up c
ooki
ng w
hat w
e w
ant t
o co
ok n
o
mat
ter
wha
t the
them
e.
Favo
rite
them
e? C
adav
re e
squi
sse,
Dad
a G
ame.
You
get w
hat y
ou g
et a
t Rog
ue. Y
ou d
on’t
know
loca
tion
unt
il a
few
day
s be
fore
the
even
t (so
met
imes
we
don’
t) a
nd y
ou d
on’t
know
men
u ti
ll yo
u sh
ow u
p th
at n
ight
.
If y
ou d
on’t
show
up
or c
ance
l las
t min
ute
you
are
im
med
iate
ly ta
ken
off R
ogue
list
.
Spec
ial d
iete
ry n
eeds
: A
re. Y
ou. K
iddi
ng?!
Ther
e is
ALW
AY
S an
aft
er p
arty
and
eve
ryon
e in
clud
ing
the
gues
ts a
re in
vite
d. W
hen
you
hear
Mic
hael
Jac
kson
on
the
juke
th
ough
, it’s
tim
e to
leav
e.
Rog
ue w
as c
reat
ed in
Oct
ober
200
9.
We
have
hos
ted
50 o
ffici
al e
vent
s pl
us a
noth
er
7 un
offic
ial e
vent
s.
We
have
bee
n at
a to
tal o
f 38
diffe
rent
loca
tion
s in
St.
Loui
s.
Rog
ue #
1 to
ok p
lace
at a
fully
ope
rati
onal
trai
n st
atio
n. T
he
only
am
enit
y w
as o
ne s
mal
l sin
k w
ith
cold
run
ning
wat
er,
and
we
serv
ed d
inne
r in
the
mid
st o
f arr
ivin
g an
d de
part
ing
pass
enge
rs.
Othe
r in
tere
stin
g lo
cati
ons:
win
e sh
ops,
bre
wer
ies,
vet
clin
ic,
sex
cafe
, mus
eum
, sta
ge o
f a th
eatr
e, w
iner
y, c
onve
rted
fune
ral
hom
e, c
olle
ge c
ampu
s.
We
once
re-
crea
ted
an e
ntir
e Su
gar
Shac
k co
mpl
ete
wit
h 20
feet
of
sca
ffold
ing
in a
n ab
ando
ned
war
ehou
se.
We
once
had
to c
hang
e th
e lo
cati
on 3
tim
es o
nly
days
bef
ore
an
even
t bec
ause
of c
ircu
mst
ance
s.
We
have
ser
ved
mor
e th
an 2
00 d
ishe
s an
d ha
ve n
ever
re
peat
ed a
sin
gle
one.
We
serv
e on
ave
rage
8-1
1 co
urse
per
din
ner
to 2
0-24
gue
sts.
We
once
did
a d
inne
r w
ith
25 c
ours
es.
We
once
had
to s
teal
a B
BQ
pit f
rom
an
unsu
spec
ting
nei
ghbo
ur
to c
ompl
ete
a di
nner
whe
n th
e ov
en w
e w
ere
wor
king
. on
wen
t out
.
The
smal
lest
kit
chen
we
wor
ked
in w
as 3
by
8 fo
ot ..
. ou
r bi
gges
t had
8 w
ork
stat
ions
.
We
wer
e on
ce to
ld th
at w
e sh
ould
ser
ve m
ore
Fren
ch w
ines
at a
di
nner
. Tha
t gue
st w
as to
ld th
ey n
eed
not r
etur
n to
an
y fu
ture
eve
nt.
We
end
up c
ooki
ng w
hat w
e w
ant t
o co
ok n
o
mat
ter
wha
t the
them
e.
Favo
rite
them
e? C
adav
re e
squi
sse,
Dad
a G
ame.
You
get w
hat y
ou g
et a
t Rog
ue. Y
ou d
on’t
know
loca
tion
unt
il a
few
day
s be
fore
the
even
t (so
met
imes
we
don’
t) a
nd y
ou d
on’t
know
men
u ti
ll yo
u sh
ow u
p th
at n
ight
.
If y
ou d
on’t
show
up
or c
ance
l las
t min
ute
you
are
im
med
iate
ly ta
ken
off R
ogue
list
.
Spec
ial d
iete
ry n
eeds
: A
re. Y
ou. K
iddi
ng?!
Ther
e is
ALW
AY
S an
aft
er p
arty
and
eve
ryon
e in
clud
ing
the
gues
ts a
re in
vite
d. W
hen
you
hear
Mic
hael
Jac
kson
on
the
juke
th
ough
, it’s
tim
e to
leav
e.
Foie
Gra
s h
as b
een
serv
ed a
t eac
h an
d ev
ery
Rog
ue e
vent
. Fo
ie G
ras
has
bee
n se
rved
at e
ach
and
ever
y R
ogue
eve
nt.
No walk-in? Scant counter space? No problem. At least there is running water in this mini-kitchen.
IT’S A BRISK FALL AFTERNOON IN the Central West End neighborhood of St. Louis. I’ve climbed a narrow flight of stairs in the rear of the main kitchen at Brennan’s, a popular wine and cigar-centric pub, looking for the Rogue Chefs. Comprised of several turn-of-the-century row houses that have been interconnected by doorways punched in the walls, the
second floor of Brennan’s features a couple of bars, a cosy cigar lounge, and much to my surprise, a tiny record shop (yes, as in vinyl). It also features a minuscule kitchen boasting a single six burner gas range, and a small refrigerator. It is in this tiny space that the Rogue Chefs will shortly prepare an 11 course meal for 30 people.
I first met the Rogue Chef’s through friends, shortly after moving to St. Louis. Back then the Rogue Underground Dining Society was in its second year, and my wife and I were thrilled to be invited to join one of the dinners. Over the years we have gone to several
Issue 02 2016 www.jonathangayman.com 11
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The Rogue Underground Dining Society celebrates a milestone with their most ambitious theme yet. by Jonathan Gayman
TURNS50
PLANNING IS KEY
Late on a weeknight evening after long shifts at their day jobs, the Rogue Chefs begin their planning process in a family kitchen on the outskirts of St. Louis. Despite the lofty menu ideas for the upcoming event floating back and forth across the table, they fuel the strategy session with more pedestrian fare: pizza and red wine.
Lamb Tartar with Nuk Choy, Soy Sake Gel, Black and White Sesame SeedsRecipe on page 27
pop-up events at locations ranging from a Gothic church to a suburban basement to the roasting facility of a local coffee company.
Each dinner is announced via email to a carefully curated list of invitees. The only information provided is the date and theme. Those who are able to respond immediately are able to snap up a reservation for the twenty or so seats - competition is high. If you RSVP and then cancel? Chances are you won’t be on the next invite list.
The location is provided to the lucky guests a day or so before the dinner, usually just an address, with no other information about the location. Dress is generally “as you see fit” but most diners tend to dress up a bit … this is, after all, not your usual dining experience. You are given a theme, but no menu or details. Basically you show up and see what happens.
“From the beginning, Rogue was meant to be a culinary vision,” says Chef K, “driven by both our reaction to the contemporary dining setting, and by a deep sense that we wanted to liberate ourselves and our diners from the many constraints that diners experience in this generation’s glamorized food world. We wanted to create an all access pass to everyone who would be involved in Rogue, and by everyone we mean everyone - the volunteer wait and kitchen staff, the photographers, the occasional DJs, event hosts, musicians, singers, and
actors. Each of these individuals need to form a team determined to create an event that will break down the industry’s “4th Wall.”
One of the most exciting things about The Rogue Underground Dining Society is the ability to not only enjoy a delicious meal in a clandestine location, but to participate in the event, whether that means helping to prep, donating bread or wine, or volunteering an interesting space for a future dinner, as my wife and I did.
“The diners themselves are always considered part of “the crew” and are asked to participate in any way they feel comfortable. They ultimately end up helping us form our true identity as an engaged Underground Society. We are driven by the urgency to create events that are not always (or only) about food. As much as Rogue has always been about chaos and no-holds-barred breaking of all the rules, each and every detail is always carefully thought out and planned, from the menu, to the lighting, the music, centerpieces ... even entrances and exits are carefully orchestrated.
All this with the thought in mind that the guests are about to experience an event that forces them to become an integral part of Rogue. We are after all Culinarians whose vision of the industry was and is forever built on a platform of change and progression. Nothing happens by chance at a Rogue event, and yet everything is left to chance, luck, and a hint of illusion.”
For their 50th dinner at Brennan’s, the Rogue Chefs took this sense of participation and creativity to an
extreme level. When the guests arrived, they were greeted with a cork board populated with small tags. On one side were tags notating different cuisines (Hispanic, Canadian, Far East, etc.) and on the other, various cooking techniques (fried, under pressure, torched, etc.). Each party was asked to choose one tag from each column and pair them up. Then, while the guests enjoyed cocktails and hors d’oeuvres, the chefs took these mash-ups and
created the menu on the fly, drawing on their collective experience to serve up amazing combinations of flavor, texture, and technique to make Rogue 50 a memorable experience for their guests.
Later, well after midnight, as they were toasting the success of Rogue 50 at the traditional after-party, the Rogue Chef’s were already planning their next event. Chances are you won’t be on the invite list, but keep your ear to the ground in St. Louis and you may just meet a Rogue Chef in the wild...
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14 www.jonathangayman.com Issue 02 2016
We are driven by the urgency to create events that are not always (or only) about food."
Each course is whisked to the table by volunteers and the chefs themselves.
Torched Scallop with Braised Freekah, Herb Aioli, Micro Kale, Charcoal SaltRecipe on page 26
GAME TIME!After hours of prep work, after the tables are set, and the sun has gone down, the guests arrive. Over cocktails they choose the mash-up combinations from pins on a corkboard that will decide what dishes they will be eating. Our heroes jump into action, along with their volunteer team of kitchen and wait staff to create and execute. The guests are plied with cocktails and wine pairings with each course, the noise level rises, and the chefs hit their stride.
Winter 2014 15 www.jonathangayman.com 17
Roasted Vegetables with Hot Sauce VinaigretteRecipe on page 26
14 Winter 2014 15 The Insat iable Lens
Pressure Cooked Pork Cheeks with Molasses and Sweet Pea Risotto, Bacon, and Oregano Molasses JusRecipe on Page 27
“IMAGINE PREPARING THE FOUR recipes photographed in this magazine, add seven more, and execute them off-the-cuff for 30 guests in a kitchen with barely enough room for one person. That’s 330 plates inspired by a list of 11 cuisines and 11 culinary techniques that our guests were invited to mash-up together and
make us sweat. And sweat we did!That was the make up of what became Rogue 50. The “mash-up” anti-anniversary party. Rogue, remember, is all about control and precision. This event challenged our abilities and creativity to the extreme. It was grueling and fun. We had to pivot every 5 seconds to get to the next course. It completely threw us
off our game. As a result it was the most exhilerating Rogue we have ever done. The rush was more than we could have imagined and we realized at the end of the day (which began at 5 a.m. and ended at 1:30 am the next day) that this was why we Rogue. This is why Rogue exists. This is why it will continue...” - Chef K. n
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E p i l o g u e
The resident pastry chef at Rogue events concocts all manner of delicious baked goods as well as sumptious desserts. Her challenge for Rogue 50? To mash-up French cuisine with a Layered technique.
THE sWEet SPOT
Raspberry Lavender Trifle
RECIPE FILE
INGREDIENTS
Thyme Simple Syrup½ cup water½ cup granulated sugar2 teaspoons dried thyme, (or to taste)
Lavendar Pastry Cream2 cups whole milk4 oz. granulated sugar2 egg yolks1 large egg1.25 oz. cornstarch1 oz. softened butter½ teaspoon vanilla extract1 teaspoon finely chopped dried lavender (or to taste)
For the Trifle9” basic spongecakeThyme simple syrupLavender pastry creamFresh raspberriesSweetened whipped creamToasted, chopped hazelnuts
Thyme Simple Syrup
Place all ingredients in a small saucepan. Bring to a boil. Simmer for 1 minute.
Allow to cool completely before using.
Lavender Pastry Cream
Bring almost all of the milk and sugar to a boil in a saucepan.
In a separate bowl, mix the egg yolks, egg, cornstarch and remaining milk until smooth. When the milk in the pot boils, temper a small amount of the hot milk into the egg mixture.
Pour the warmed egg mixture back into the pot of milk. Cook, stirring constantly, until the mixture thickens and boils. Boil for 1 minute. Remove from heat, and cool quickly in an ice bath.
Stir until pastry cream is lukewarm, and then add softened butter, vanilla, and lavender. Stir until cooled.
Assemble the TrifleCut the spongecake in half horizontally. In a trifle bowl, or other large, glass serving dish, line the bottom with half of the spongecake. You can cut each half into a circle to exactly fit the bowl, or you can cut the cake into cubes and scatter them evenly. You can also use smaller glasses for individual servings. Brush the cake liberally with the thyme simple syrup.
Top the cake with a layer of raspberries. Spoon over half of the lavender pastry cream, and smooth it out with an offset spatula or the back of a spoon. Repeat all the layers. Refrigerate until serving time, but no more than 24 hours. The trifle will still be good to eat after that, but it may become soggy.
Right before serving, top the trifle with a thick layer of sweetened whipped cream. Garnish with the toasted hazelnuts and more fresh raspberries.
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THE FOLLOWING recipes are structured in such a way as to help you unleash your own creative genius. We believe that every recipe in existence should be questioned and adapted to the needs of the dish, the season and the final product. It comes down to why you cook the way you cook. So for better or for worse the recipes are vague so that you will help them evolve as well. - THE ROGUE CHEFS
RECIPE FILE
Torched Scallop with Braised Freekah, Herb Aioli, Micro Kale,
Charcoal Salt Cuisine: Asian Technique: Torched
This dish really defines Rogue’s need to
experiment and explore. The torching of the
scallop creates for us a campfire feel and
caramelizes the outside of the scallop while
leaving the inside raw but firm. Cutting into
it should unleash a sweetness that is potent
and sublime.
Feel free, if you are not familiar with the
torching method to pan sear these at will. If
you are using a home blow torch remember
not to torch on a wooden cutting board. Use
instead a metal (cast iron) skillet or sturdy
sheet pan. Leave it dry - meaning do not put
oil on pan. Torch the outside diameter of
the scallop, not the top and bottom. Notice
we have not asked you to salt or pepper
the incredible dry-packed scallop you have
purchased with care at your local trusted
fishmonger. We really want you to taste the
incredible sweet flavors of the scallop. Let
the scallop rest at room temperature while
you cook the freekah and make the aioli for
further flavor development.
As for the rest of the recipe:
An aioli can be made simply by making a
mayonnaise base and adding to any number
of fresh fine herbs. These herbs should be
chopped and added at the last second to
maintain flavor, and color as well. Remember
garlic does not have to be a part of this recipe.
It may even interfere with the fine beverage
you will be serving alongside this dish.
Braise the freekah by toasting it slightly in
a pan then adding your liquid. Bring to a
boil and simmer. Normally one would braise
(merely the wet method of cooking) covered
in an oven. We prefer stove top uncovered
so you can see what is going on. Freekah,
by the way, is an heirloom wheat and is now
readily available. It does take its sweet time
to cook. So if you are impatient start it before
the Scallop and mayo prep. We like to braise
the grain in some lightly sautéed shallots and
a well flavored vegetable broth. Cook until
no longer crunchy.
Unless you like a little crunch.
Next: Is charcoal salt weird? Yes it is. You
can make it by obtaining a small piece of
non-chemically-treated all-natural hardwood
piece of coal and rinsing it under water. Then
let it dry and microplane it into a little of your
favorite finishing salt. Here is where using
a high quality salt matters. Don’t use your
charcoal salt to cook with!!!! Ration whatever
tastes good to you and has a bit of charcoal
taste. Balance is everything! Now you
have all the elements … it is the time to
assemble the dish. We toss the aioli into
chilled freekah and plate with the scallops.
It can be served on the side as well. Top
with a little charcoal salt and micro kale.
Eat that dish! n
RECIPE FILE
Roasted Vegetables with Hot Sauce Vinaigrette Cuisine: SouthernTechnique: Roasted So simple and so incredibly delicious. We love roasting whatever seasonal vegetables are avail-able. The light roasting of vegetables releases important nutrients that the body can absorb.
Roasted vegetables are simply tossed in a little oil of your choice, seasoned to taste with salt and pepper and cooked in a hot oven, 350ºF seems to make good sense, until done to your liking. Twenty-five minutes or so.
The puffed wild rice is made by simply frying the rice in a pan in some hot oil. Probably the best thing to do here is to have an instant red thermometer in order to check the temperature of the oil. 340ºF works great as it is hot enough but will not burn. Remove rice with a slotted spoon and put on something absorbent to capture excess grease. Paper towels are nice.
While the veggies are roasting and the rice is puffing, assemble the hot sauce vinaigrette by adding about ¼ cup of your favorite hot sauce to two tablespoons of honey, the same
of molasses, and the same of melted butter. Taste and adjust for sweetness. Sauce may be served either warm or cold.
Plate roasted vegetables drizzled with hot sauce. Simple and electrifying. Add raw brus-sels sprout leaves just to throw everyone off! n
26 www.jonathangayman.com Issue 02 2016
RECIPE FILE
Pressure Cooked Pork Cheeks with Molasses and Sweet Pea Risotto, Bacon, and Oregano Molasses Jus Cusine: Street FoodTechnique: Pressure If you don’t own an electric pressure cooker now is the time to get one. They are quick and efficient and baddass and work well in a Rogue environment where more often than not we do not have a kitchen.
For the pork cheeks: Salt and pepper your cheeks and then sear them in a hot pan with a little oil. Move the browned cheeks to the pres-sure cooker and then sauté about two ounces diced onions over a low heat for about 3-4 min-utes in the pan that the cheeks were in. Deglaze the pan with some interesting dry red wine. Use something you would like to drink please!!! Pour wine and onions into the pressure cooker. Then add ¼ cup molasses and add enough liquid or broth just to cover the cheeks. The liquid or broth can be many things. If water is all you have use it. The cheeks will still rock, but the sauce will be fairly bland. Use instead a vegetable or meat stock that you have made or your favorite store-bought is fine. The best liquid to use of course would be a great veal stock, but I men-tion the other liquids first because not all of us have a veal stock readily available.
None-the-less let the pressure cooker do the rest of the work. Follow the instructions that come with it for cooking meat, then let the cheeks stand in their liquid while you make the pea risotto.
People always think risotto is harder to make than it actually is. We learned years ago that one does not have to cook a risotto by standing over it and watching the liquid evaporate, adding more a little at a time until it is gone. After the initial sweating of the arborio rice in a pan with a little oil and diced onion and some minced garlic, we add all the liquid that is required, usually a three to one ratio of liquid to rice, and let it cook uncovered until the liquid is absorbed. We stir occasionally. We then add some pureed pea that has been tossed with a little soft butter and some diced cooked bacon or pork jowl as the fresh oregano leaves. For the Molasses Jus, just take some of the liquid from the finished cheeks and reduce it down over medium heat until it thickens, very thick or not so thick. Whatever you desire. Plate cheeks with risotto. The jus can be poured over, or under, or on the side.
You’ve just made another killer dish. n
RECIPE FILE
Lamb Tartar with Nuk Choy, SoySake Gel, Black and White Sesame Seeds. Cuisine: Far EastTechnique: Raw
We love Tartar of any kind and this one kills it!
The lamb can be purchased ground or you can mince your own. If you can find some great quality local lamb, even better. Just don’t make it too fatty as that fat will sit on your tongue in a very unpleasant way. Add all these ingredients to taste and mix: finely diced shallot, hot mustard, sesame oil, shrimp paste. Taste a little and balance out those flavors. Err on the side of less sesame as the pronounced flavor there can kill everything.
Blend soy sauce in a blender pitcher and slowly sprinkle agar into vortex, blend for 2 minutes. Bring mixture to simmering in a small pot, then pour into a shallow dish. Allow to cool in refrigerator for 2 hrs, break up with a fork and re-blend until it becomes a smooth gel. Hold in a squeeze bottle.
Lightly steam of the Nuk Choy, an Asian green, toss in a drop or 2 of sesame and serve. You can also use Bok Choy so don’t drive yourself crazy trying to find the Nuk Choy unless to really want to. Serve with a the tartar and a few drops of the Soy Sake Gel.
Voila. n
LAST CALL
RECIPE FILE
INGREDIENTS
1 lime1 tsp kosher salt1 tsp smoked paprika2 oz tequila1 oz lemongrass and ginger simple syrup1 oz cold-steeped Firepot hibiscus elixir tea
Mix the salt and paprika together in a small dish. Cut a piece of lime and use it to rim the lip of the glass. Sprinkle the salt mixture to coat the lime juice. For best results, allow the rim to dry for a few minutes.
Use a kitchen torch to char a lime slice or wedge.
Fill a cocktail shaker with ice, and add the tequila, simple syrup and tea. Shake vigorously until chilled, then strain into a coupe that has been rimmed with a 50% paprika 50% salt mixture. Garnish with a burnt lime.
EVERY ROGUE DINNER BEGINS THE WAY THAT every good dinner party should: with a cocktail. The Rogue Chef’s enlist the help of local mixologists to create cocktails that will compliment the hors d’oeuvres and also follow the theme of the evening.
For Rogue 50, since the theme was a mash-up, the cocktail that was chosen follows suit, combining the flavors of Mexican tequila, Spanish Paprika, and Carribean hibsicus. The charred lime adds a further note of depth ... and makes for a great presentation as well! n
Tequila & Tea
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