The Indoor Gardener Magazine Volume 3—# 3 (Nov./Dec. 2007)

Volume 3 – Issue 2November / December 2007

Published by: Green Publications

Publisher: J.M.

Managing editor: Bruno [email protected]

Contributing editor: Helene Jutras

Art Director: Anna Kanaras

Editorial coordinator: Bruno Bredoux

Collaborators in this issue:

C.A., Ralph B., Vlad Balousian, Kerrie R. Barney, Kari Bayne, Pierre Bonnard, Bruno Bredoux, Jean-Pierre Daimé, Stan Daimon, J. Desjardins, Breen Derrecka, Daniel Fortin, Herb Gardner, Vertuda Green, Paul Henderson, G.H., Ilona Hufkens, Helene Jutras, Rob Kelly, Roxanne Labelle, Fred Leduc, Manon Leroux, A. O’Connor, R. Ridou, J.-F. Savard, William Sutherland, vieux bandit.

Sales & advertising: Stan [email protected] Lydia [email protected]

Distribution: See the list of our distributors on our website.

Translation/Copy editing: Helene Jutras, trad.a.

Cover design: An arum fl ower from the Araceae family (which includes thenumerous aroids subfamily) Photo by Manon Leroux

Illustrations: Anna Kanaras (also see credits on each page).

Administration: R. [email protected]

Information: [email protected]

THE INDOOR GARDENER MAGAZINEP.O. Box 52046, Laval, Quebec, H7P 5S1, CANADAPhone: 450-628-5325 Fax: 450-628-7758www.tigmag.comISSN: 1715-0949

© 2007, Green Publications Vertes, Laval, Qc, CanadaArticles, iconographic representations and photographs contained in this magazine cannot be reproduced, in whole or in part, without the written consent of the Publisher.

Legal deposit: Second Quarter 2005. National Library of Canada. Bibliothèque nationale du Québec.

Printed in Canada by Litho Mille-Iles Ltée,Terrebonne, Quebec, J6Y 1N9Cove

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4THE INDOOR GARDENER VOLUME 3 – ISSUE 3

CREDITS & TABLE OF CONTENTS

8 INTRODUCTION

HYDROPONIC CLASSICS VI: THE PLANT TIER SYSTEMS, THE COLISEUM AND THE BONZAI GARDEN By V.G., B.L., P.H. and W.S.

14 NOTES & NEWS

16 TIPS & TRICKS: I Never Met a Booster I Didn’t Like… By Ralph B.

19 GRASSROOT MUSIC FOR PLANTS (AND GARDENERS): Taraf de Haïdouks By J. Desjardins

20 EASY TROPICAL PLANTS: AGLAONEMA By Daniel Fortin 28 MORPHOLOGICAL CHANGE, PHYSIOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENT By Bruno Bredoux

30 HOMEBOX XXL THE 2.88M3 GROWING CHAMBER (120 X 120 X 240 CM) By EastSide Impex

32 GALLERY

36 SUCCESSFUL CUTTINGS – PART 2: “ACCELERATED” METHOD By G. Hannafin, P. Bonnard and J.-P. Daimé

40 THE MIRACLE OF THE GOLDEN POTHOS By Kerrie R. Barney

42 PLANT CLASSIFICATION

8 – THEOBROMA CACAO L. (EAE FAMILY MALVAC) OR THE MYSTERIES OF CACAO TREE By V. Green

46 CONVERSION TABLE – ERRATA By William Sutherland

48 MY GROWING METHOD IN A CLOSET: THE EXPERIMENT CONTINUES By R. Ridou

52 HORTICULTURAL LIGHTING: • Yield per Bulb • What Is A Bulb’s Micromole Value?

AND OUR USUAL FEATURES: EDITORIAL (6) INTERLUDE (51) JUSTICE FOR PLANTS (56) INDUSTRY NEWS (57 TO 63) HYDRO WORLD OF NORTH-AMERICA (59 TO 61) SHOPPING (63-64) Q & A (66)

VOLUME 3 — ISSUE 3 / NOVEMBER — DECEMBER 2007

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Tulips, cacao tree, golden pothos... Same goal: seduce

humans and prosper...

In his book The Botany of Desire: A Plant’s-Eye View of the

World (2001), Michael Pollan explains to his readers how wild

tulips used their natural beauty to attract human attention

and hence survive and fl orish as a tamed ornamental species.

Discovered in Turkey three and a half centuries ago, they have

conquered every part of the world and have multiplied as

ever diverse hybrids. Explorers were ready to kill to bring back

rare species. Alexandre Dumas was even inspired to write an

adventure novel in which horticulture, capes and swords

were all stars (La Tulipe noire, 1850).

Humans have also managed to transform plants that, at

fi rst, seemed to have few qualities, into incredible sources

of pleasure. Such is the case of the cacao tree, whose history

you can read starting on page 42. How, 1,600 years ago, did

the Maya get the idea to transform the shrub’s pods to obtain

a drink that was, at fi rst, extremely bitter, but that ended up

being chocolate as we know it? The mystery remains, but

centuries of perseverance have turned the cacao tree into a

shrub cultivated around the globe for what it offers humans

in return. After giving it a use, we have pampered it.

In this issue (page 40), Kerrie R. Barney, one of our readers,

also shares with us how a small golden pothos cutting

nicknamed Brian managed to bring her out of months

of illness and convalescence. The power plants have over

humans is extraordinary. It must not be underestimated. The

ability of humans to get tons of benefi ts from plants is just

as surprising. This privileged human/plant relationship is far

from reaching its term. Like a certain Ed recently said, plants

are “aware” of their taming.

Bruno Bredoux

The Indoor Gardener Magazine

October 2007

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❐ ISSUE 1 – 1

❐ ISSUE 1 – 2 ❐ ISSUE 1 – 4

❐ ISSUE 1 – 5

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❐ ISSUE 2 – 1 ❐ ISSUE 2 – 3 ❐ ISSUE 2 – 5 ❐ ISSUE 3 – 1

❐ ISSUE 2 – 2 ❐ ISSUE 2 – 4 ❐ ISSUE 2 – 6 ❐ ISSUE 3 – 2

EDITORIAL

What Humans Can Make Plants Do, What Plants Can Make Humans Understand

❐ ISSUE 3 – 3


INTRODUCTION

I – What type of hydroponic system to choose for indoor gardening?1) The hydroponic techniques used nowadays are extremely varied. The most basic system is that of capillary

action: many small hydroponic systems in line work by capillary action, a wick bringing water, nutrients and

fertilizers to the plants that grow in individual pots placed in a tray that gathers the water. Another simple

option using capillary action is the NFT (nutritive fi lm technique), a system developed by A. Cooper in Great-

Britain during the 1960s. This system is not manufactured commercially for hobbyists. Nevertheless, it is one of

the easiest to install at home. According to hydroponics technician G. Taksir (journalist with Échos du Chanvre):

“You put a plank on a slightly angled metallic frame and you put longitudinal plastic sheets overtop. On those,

put rockwool cubes holding the plants. Tie and staple the

plastic above the cubes to form a channel where water will

circulate non-stop. A drainpipe, at the bottom of the table,

sends the water back to the reservoir containing the pump.

These systems are good for oxygenation. Nevertheless, they

are at the mercy of a prolonged power outage, because as

soon as the roots are no longer fed with water, the plant dies

in a matter of hours.”

2) A more traditional pump system is that of aerohydroponics, developed in the 1970s in Israel and at Davis

University, in California. According to G. Taksir (in Échos du Chanvre), here is how this system works: “In

aerohydroponics, we use water or air pumps. Air pumps are used for smaller systems. They use pierced-

bottom pots, fi lled with clay pellets to provide a physical support to the plant. They fi t into a second, larger pot,

used as a reservoir. An aquarium-type pump oxygenates the water. With a pumping

column, the nutritive solution climbs up to a rubber drilled ring, which spreads it

on the surface of the clay pellets. The solution then drains onto the roots through

gravity. These pots are perfect for individual plants. They can keep the same mother

plants for years. However, unless they are connected to an additional reservoir, they

Hydroponic Classics VIThe Plant Tier ™ Systems,

The Coliseum and The Bonzai Garden

The Plant TierTM 64 The Coliseum The Bonzai Garden

By V.G., B.L., P.H. and W.S.

Photos: From the product m

anufacturers and/or distributors, Échos du Chanvre magazine, G

.H. &

D.R

.

Phot

os: F

.H.D

. – Il

lust

ratio

ns: D

.R.

INTRODUCTIONmust be closely observed. In hot weather, a large plant can

drink the water reserve in 2 or 3 days.”

3) The drip-irrigation system uses a submersible pump in

a central reservoir that distributes the nutritive solution. “The

plants are fed by individual injectors that work intermittently

(drop by drop) using a timer. Traditionally, such a system is

made up of rectangular buckets into which we put a slab of

rock wool or a similar substrate (glass wool, coco fi bre, etc.)

On this slab, we place a cube of the same substrate, into which

a plant is placed. A drip irrigation line is placed on the cube,

and a reservoir, placed under, allows for the recycling of the

nutritive solution. (G. Taksir – Les Échos du Chanvre).” Then,

much the same way (using a submersible pump), there is the

fl ood table (also called “ebb and fl ow” or “fl ood and drain”).

In this system, the fl ux/refl ux principle is used. The pump is

submerged in the reservoir and fl oods the table at regular

intervals with a nutritive solution. A timer controls the uniform

irrigation of plants. When the pump stops, the water drains

back to the reservoir, allowing the roots to be oxygenated until

the next fl ood.

4) Finally, there are aeroponic

and airoponic systems. In

aeroponic systems, plant

roots are suspended in the

air or in a closed space and

watered with a cloud of very

fi ne nutritive solution droplets.

Disney at Epcot Center and

NASA have helped develop this

technique. With aeroponics,

hobbyists and professionals

can innovate using this

technique’s systems. With this

nutrient-fi lled mist nutrition,

you can get impressive results, for example using the Apollo 3

system, which has a reservoir, next to the cultivation sites, that

can hold 240 litres, has double tubing and is designed to hold

the nutritive solution through independent connections. As for

the very recent airoponics technique, we will let William, from

Ontario’s B & B Hydroponic Gardens, explain what it consists

of below.

The opinion of the owner of B & B Hydroponic GardensAiroponics Is Gaining MomentumAiroponics is nothing else that the atomization of water

droplets. Nutrient solution diluted in water is pumped under

extreme pressure through a small opening creating even more

pressure, forced up against a pan, shattering the water into

very small droplets. The smaller the droplets, the better. Once

the water is atomized to a mist, nutrients, air and water are

absorbed by the plants much quicker.

Because the plant roots are bathed in a nutrient-enriched

water with plenty

of oxygen, they will

not rot. It has always

been a problem to

get the right water

to air mixture in soil.

When you water soil,

the soil is usually

soaked with nutrient

solution diluted in water, fi lling up alI of the air pockets under

the surface of the soil. As the soil dries, we get a better air

to water mixture, but soon, within a few hours, the air has

replaced the water and the soil has started to become too dry

and plant growth is slowing down.

When the ideal mineral elements have been dissolved into the

water with plenty of oxygen, plants do not have to expand their

roots in search of these elements, allowing them to concentrate

on growth and fl owering or fruit setting. Soil will only allow the

right mixture to be available for a very short period before one

of the other extremes has been reached: too wet or too dry.

But with airoponics that perfect condition can be achieved right

from seedling or cutting to the end of a plant’s life. Now, would

you not want to give your plants the very best?

– W.S.

II – Plant Tier ™ Systems From Future Harvest Development (formerly known as Pipe Dreams Systems)Do you have a long narrow room that needs to grow? Future

Harvest Development has just the garden for you. With the

Plant Tier ™systems, they have made a small package into a

BIG garden.

* Plant Tier 32: The versatility of the Plant Tier 32V garden

is limitless for the water garden enthusiast. The Plant Tier 32V

can be designed to be a drip-style garden, an AquaSpin garden

or an aeroponic garden. The unique tier design on the V-style

system allows it to be the perfect 1 x 1000 watt or 2 x 600

watt garden. This ingenious compact design

allows it to be placed in an area that can be

as small as 1.5 m2 in

size. For even more

space savings or just

the right thing for

apartment living,

Photos: © Verticallim

its.ca & D

.R.

the Plant Tier 32 Balcony Garden gives the most. Also available

in three different growing styles, the Plant Tier balcony-style

garden is an easy and affordable yard! Plant Tier 32 garden

systems are equipped with easy step-by-step instructions, 32

growing sites, an Xstream water pump, nutrient tank, system

stand, wide mesh growing baskets and all irrigation needed

for complete assembly. Aeroponic style gardens include a high-

pressure water pump and a Nutradip™ multi-cycle timer with a

built-in Night Mode feature.

* Plant Tier 64: The Plant Tier 64 is the perfect system for 2 x

1000 watt stationery bulbs or the overhead Lite Rail Tracking

system. Once again, this system works on the theory of a 3-in-

1 and can be used as a Drip, Maximizer or Aeroponic system.

Plant Tier 64 Systems™ come equipped with easy step-by-

step instructions, 64 growing sites, an Xstream water pump,

nutrient tank, system stand, wide mesh growing baskets and

all irrigation needed for complete assembly. Aeroponic style

gardens include a high-pressure water pump and a Nutradip™

multi-cycle timer with a built-in Night Mode feature. The Plant

Tier 64 system is ideal for commercial production!

* Plant Tier 96: The same can be said about the Plant Tier 96.

It is even more effective for commercial needs! Designed for the

grower that needs to have more room for taller plants, the Plant

Tier 96 can confi dently produce heavy bearing fruit plants. This

system is ideal for strawberry and lettuce production. Future

Harvest Development offers you the choice of Plant Tier 96

growing tubes to be 1.8 m in length or 2.4 m in length.

* Also available: Plant Tier 18 Balcony and Plant Tier 160

Apparels.

All Plant Tier Systems™ are equipped with the following:

• Uniquely designed stands. The tiered growing tubes create a

stadium effect, maximizing the growing space.

• Custom manufactured Grow Tubes™.

• All plumbing.

• Feed lines.

• Pump inline or submersible (depending on model).

• Nutrient tank.

• Spray heads, misters or drip spears.

• Assembly and operation manuals.

The opinion of the owner of B & B Hydroponic GardensThe Plant Tier ™ 18B, 32B, 32V, 64V, 96 and 160 Systems:Plant Tier ™Balconies and Apparels from Future Harvest

Development all come complete and ready to set up. The grower

will just have to add the G.E.T. Aroma Formula (from Growing

Edge Technologies), or any other fertilization program, at half

its strength.

– W.S.

III – The Coliseum: the revolution of vertical gardeningThe Coliseum ensures

an optimal production

in a space much smaller

than trat of a traditional

garden. The spheroidal

design of the Coliseum

is made up of individual

half-circular sections that

can be stacked to create

all of the gardening

space you may need. This

innovative concept allows

you to use a line of bulbs

to maximize the use of

each emitted photon. This

increased lighting allows

every plant to receive optimal lighting.

Many culture strategies can be employed with the Coliseum.

The most popular and the easiest to manage is without a doubt

the drip-irrigation method. The Coliseum is fi lled with a mixture

of inert substrates. For exemple: 70% perlite, 30% vermiculite,

peat moss and coco fi bre. (Beware: the pumps and substrates

for the Coliseum gardens are always sold separately.) Rooted

plants are placed directly into the growing sites. The nutritive

solution is pumped from the top of each semi-circular sections

and slowly drips through the system. The substrate used makes

a rich and humid growing environment.

With the Coliseum, two basic confi gurations are possible, and

each offers distinct advantages. The large Coliseum requires

a lower initial investment. The small Coliseum is much more

fl exible when the space available for gardening is small. Both

confi gurations are easy to assemble and manage. An assembly/

installation manual and a user’s guide are included with both.

* Small Coliseum – up to 300 sites

• Basic confi guration: two modules (left and right), 40 cm

high X 1.7 m long X 78 cm wide. The modules, placed facing

each other, form the Coliseum circle. Plumbing, emitters and

tubing are included. It offers up to 60 sites.

• Additions – Small Coliseum: Two additional stackable

modules (left and right) with

all required tubing to place

them on top of the two basic

modules. They

offer up to 60


INTRODUCTION

Photos: D.R

.

additional sites. In total, four levels of these additional modules

can be added to the basic system, to create a 300 site garden.

* Large Coliseum – up to 450 sites

• Basic confi guration: Two modules (left and right), 103 cm

high X 168 cm long X 79 cm wide form the base. The modules,

placed facing each other, form the Coliseum circle. Plumbing,

emitters and tubing are included. It offers up to 150 sites.

• Additions – Large Coliseum: Two additional stackable

modules (left and right) with all required tubing to place them

on top of the two basic modules. They each offer 150 additional

sites, for a possible total of 450 sites.

* Collector/Reservoir, horseshoe-shaped

Sold separately in pairs, the collector/reservoirs, horse-shoe

shaped, are ideal as the basic unit for the Coliseum, large or

small. They have a 30-gallon capacity and collect the nutritive

solution dripping from the garden.

The opinion of the owner of B & B Hydroponic GardensThe Coliseum:Why grow on fl at land when you can make better use of space

with this garden? The Coliseum makes the best use of light. We

made our statement about refl ectors (T.I.G. – Volume 1 – Issue

5), but you use no refl ectors here since the light is trapped

in the Coliseum. The Coliseum is built round, there is no far

corner that needs extra light. AIl plants get the same light.

Each unit is 1 metre high and 1.7 metres across 5 levels. Or get

the 0,4 metre two level Coliseum. The Coliseum is plumbed

and ready to use: just add the growing medium. The Coliseum

has special drain tubing so that when you stack them on top

of each other the nutrient solution delivered to the top unit

does not contaminate the bottom unit. Unlike my colleague,

I recommend to fi ll it with a mixture of 50% vermiculite

and 50% perlite (which is not included). Each section of the

Coliseum should be illuminated with a 1 000 watt light, within

an air cooled glass tube. Feed your plants twice a day for 5

minutes and only use nutrient solution once, drain excess to

waste. Each section of the Coliseum comes plumbed with up

to 75 growing spots to plug in your 7.5 cm NFT pots. AlI holes

are predrilled.

Available parts:

• 5 level Coliseum: H 1m X 1.7m X 80cm.

• 2 level Coliseum: 40cm X 1.7m X 80 cm.

• 30 gallon Horseshoe Reservoir: 18cm X 1.8m.

• 8cm baskets.

• 104 cm Aircooled glass, stackable.

– W.S.

IV – The Bonzai GardenThe Bonzaï rotating garden offers an optimal light diffusion

on 360º, which makes the most of every available lumen. The

inside cylinder allows the gardener to cultivate a surface 3.14

times larger than the surface of the cylinder if it was unrolled

on the ground. What’s more, the plants are perpendicular

to the light source, which is the best possible position of the

plants around the light, both for distance and orientation. The

system is based on the optimization of geotropism to better

spread the growth auxins within the plant. The effect produced

on the plant by the system’s 360º rotation is called orbitropism.

Innovation is still the company’s priority and its technicians pay

attention to the technology’s evolution. A new Bonzaï rotating

garden model is now being designed that will contain a glass

tube with only one light bulb, which will allow the light to move

horizontally within the system.

Claude Poirier (1936-2006), the creator of this rotating garden,

fi rst developed the model that can contain 240 plants. At

fi rst, the rotating garden models were archaic and made of

INTRODUCTION

Phot

os: ©

Bon

zai G

arde

n &

D.R

.INTRODUCTION

rough hardened steel. With Claude Poirier’s experience and

his increasing interest for lighter, more fl exible materials, the

wheels have come to be made of aluminium. Due to demand

for smaller models, Mr. Poirier then launched the simplifi ed

model, designed to cultivate 120 plants. It was a great success.

The last model to be designed is that holding 360 plants. The

demand is now great for this model and the company builds

about one hundred units per year, following grouped orders of

5 to 15 models at a time.

For more information on the Bonzai 120, Bonzai 240 or Bonzai

360 Rotating Gardens, please visit the Website of its exclusive

worldwide distributor at www.indoorgardener.ca, or contact

The Indoor Gardener Hydroponics in London, Ontario, via

e-mail (www.indoorgardener.ca/contact-us.php) or telephone

(1 519 652-4224).

The opinion of the owner of B & B Hydroponic GardensThe Bonzai Garden:The Bonzai Garden is a continuous moving garden, where the

plants are literally move around the light source. At one complete

revolution per hour your plants will not fall off the wheel. The

turning action of the Bonzai Garden creates a stronger shorter

plant. There are

three different sizes

to choose from 120,

240 and 360 plant

sites. This unit takes

about two hours to

set up planted with

your favorite plants.

– W.S.


Photos: Greenstar, O

gilvy Brasil &

Mute M

agazine

Industry: An exclusive distributor for the Bonzai GardenAs we announced in last issue’s erratum, The Indoor Gardener

Hydroponics in London, Ontario, is now the exclusive distributor of

the rotating Bonzai garden in North America. For any information

regarding bulk sales of this rotating system, contact Mr. Aidan

Wilkins, 207 Exeter Rd, London, ON, N6L 1A4, Canada, Tel: 1 519

652-4224, Web : www.indoorgardener.ca.

– T.I.G.

Industry: Departure From GHOur main contact at General Hydroponics since the magazine was

fi rst launched, Luc Charnet, is leaving the company’s main offi ce

in Sebastopol, CA. We wish to thank him for his effi ciency and his

kindness over these two and a half years of mutual collaboration

regarding advertising and sales. We wish him the best of luck in

his new career.

– T.I.G.

Industry: Name ChangesTwo of our Canadian partners and

distributors have recently changed

their name. BC wholesaler Allie’s

Wholesale is now called Greenstar

Plant Products, Inc. (www.grotek.

net) whereas Québec-based business Serres Fernand Corbeil has

now become Corbeil Produits Horticoles (www.serrescorbeil.com).

Pass the word!

– T.I.G.

Industry: Hellmann s̓ Reduces the Distance Between Product And ConsumerThe famous Canadian mayonnaise brand was not, at face value,

a synonym of health. This summer, however, Hellmann’s was

found behind the creation of fi ve urban gardens in Canadian cities

(Halifax, Calgary...). The goal is to sensitize the population to the

benefi ts of eating fresh garden produce. In April, Hellmann’s also

distributed carrot seeds in citizens’ mailboxes with instructions on

how to start a garden. On the company’s website, you can already

fi nd all the tips you need to make your own vegetable garden or to

improve the one you already have. Visit the “Eat for real” page on

www.hellmanns.ca.

– B.B.

Science: Women prefer pink/purpleTwo researchers from Newcastle University’s Neurosciences Institute

in the UK, Anya Hurlbert and Yazhu Ling, have made the following

conclusion after studying the attraction colours drew from 100

men and 100 women who were presented with 4 successive series

of cards bearing two colours: “Women have a preference for the

red end of the red-green axis, which moves towards the red their

natural attraction for blue and makes pink and lilac their favourite

colours.” This female attraction towards pink/purple is allegedly

not cultural, but based on biology. According to the study, British

and Chinese women have the same attraction to those colours,

as do Canadian women from

southern Ontario and Inuit

women, as was demonstrated

by a similar Canadian study

10 years ago.

The “natural attraction to

blue” comes, according to

Anya Hurlbert, from the fact

that women have acquired

through the centuries a

preference for cloudless blue

skies, i.e. for nice weather

and more serene life conditions, a preference that would not be

found in our genes. After blue comes the attraction for red (giving

pink/purple), because throughout evolution, women who gathered

food searched for the ripest and reddest. Eve, tell me, is that why

you bit the apple?

– B.B. (Source: Libé/Reuters)

Industry: The External Reforming Fuel Cell or Proton Exchange Membrane, an “Ultra-Clean” PowerNowadays, energy supply problems concern everyone. Prices for

oil, gas and coal are rising higher and higher. In many countries,

governments consider the use of renewable energy such as biofuel,

solar energy and so on. And the question of saving energy is also

raising and leading to crucial energy

conservation needs. In this perspective,

one of the solutions could be hydrogen

technology. But in order to modernize

this technology, fuel cell energy – or

proton exchange membrane (PEM)

– is strongly needed. A fuel cell is an

electrochemical device that combines

hydrogen fuel and oxygen from the air

to produce electricity, and useable heat

and water. PEM is now developed by

FuelCell Energy, Inc. in Danbury, CT. This

company is an electrochemical power

enterprise which is pioneering strategic

energy pathways in the milliwatts to

NOTES & NEWS

Photos: © IM

DB, D

.R. &

Canna

kilowatts range. FuelCell Energy is creating

energy solutions designed for all spheres of

modern life.

The fuel cell technology, or proton exchange

membrane, is touted as the “catalyst for the

hydrogen age”. PEM, declared as the top

candidate to replace the internal combustion

engine, has created investor interest. Famous

developers, with indisputable knowledge

in commercialization questions, possess the

expertise to capitalize on new concepts.

The people at FuelCell Energy Inc. have an

excellent understanding of these issues and believe that because

the company has the right team, certain market niches can be

dominated by it. You can read more about the proton exchange

membrane at Wikipedia or at FuelCell Energy Inc. website (www.

fce.com). As an ultra-clean energy for the future, FuelCell Energy’s

stationary fuel cells produce reliable power for commercial and

industrial companies in all domains as well as utilities, 24 hours a

day, with higher effi ciency and virtually no pollution.

– Breen Derrecka

(Source: Mute Magazine – www.metamute.org)

Cinematographic Goof: A Flowering Anachronism in the movie Becoming JaneIn Becoming Jane (2007), narrating the youth of British author Jane

Austen, production designers made a big horticultural anachronism

in Technicolor and Cinemascope! Some shots of the Austen’s house

show a large plant of Clematis montana (with pale pink fl owers)

growing up the front almost to the roof. This species was fi rst

introduced from India to England in 1805, and it would have been

many years before it became generally available to gardeners. The

Austen family moved from their house (to Southampton) in 1801.

So, the clematis wasn’t available at that time, and even if planted in

1805, it couldn’t have reached the roof in such a short time!

– Source: IMDB

Let’s face it, this is the mantra of North American growers. There

are so many self-identifi ed ‘boosters’ out there it wouls take a super

computer to count them. Problem is, few are truly metabolism

boosters, which is what a booster should be. Most are additional

nutrients, organic compounds, or someone dipping their old socks

in a vat of water. One company actually has three products that

are the exact same product. A booster acts independently of

nutrients, enabling

the plant’s systems

to work at optimal

levels while leaving

no footprint or

excess baggage

behind. It works by

infl uencing plant systems, sometimes by triggering

desired responses such as an auto-immune response,

or by an increase in specifi c essential oil production.

There are many ways to get there, by overloading

a particular component and hoping a runaway

reaction occurs, by morphing a system to produce

more of one thing or another, by directly interjecting

a component through translaminar or transcellular

migration, or by genetically altering the plant. None of these

methods are particularly effective, consistent or benign (some are

even dangerous). The problem is that we only affect one part of a

system while ignoring the rest. The best way to achieve these goals

is to affect all the systems with the one component common to all

systems, energy.

NOTES & NEWS

TIPS & TRICKS

I Never Met a Booster I Didn’t Like…By Ralph B.


Photos: CannaTIPS & TRICKS

By affecting the energy pathways, from

production to translocation, storage

and utilization, we can affect all systems

equally. Therefore, the best booster would

be one that affects all systems and allows

them to utilize energy at the optimal rate

possible. Not just this, but it would be

one that works with the plant’s existing

systems, causes no imbalances, produces

no mutations, works within the plant’s

own framework, and leaves nothing

behind that is toxic or allergenic.

A booster should also allow energy to be

metabolized easily, moved quickly, and

utilized as needed, and never limited. By

allowing these things to happen, the plant

has all the energy it could ever need for fl ower production and

maturation, production of desired compounds like oils and alkaloids,

rapid and extended photosynthesis, effective available storage of

energy components like starch, stronger, faster dividing cells and

better respiration processes in the plant cell. The only thing that

would improve upon this magic elixir would be if it were composed

in such a way as to signifi cantly affect particular areas as well, so

that overproduction of desired components would not alter or tax

all other systems. This is because our energy is now free-fl owing

and available whenever and wherever the plant needs it.

By using the right plant components, and combining them with

the correct decomposition process, it might even be possible to

take advantage of other desired results like triggering the plant’s

natural immune systems (people get vaccinated). We might even

be able to trigger heavier fl ower and oil production by mimicking

specifi c stressors, or change the ratios of internal compounds to

more of what the market is after and less of what is ineffective.

We might even be able to affect the way structural and chemical

compounds are laid down so that cells become larger or oils and

saps become denser. Well, truth is, there are two boosters now

that do exactly this.

Canna Research, Canna’s research and development wing, has

introduced two new products to the market, BioBoost and

CannaBoost Accelerator. The two are identical in almost every

way, but BioBoost is organic with nothing inorganic added and

CannaBoost has a component part that is inorganic but pure. The

use of this component in the product kicks it in high gear so that

the results are rapid and big.

BioBoost handles itself in a slower manner, but it is the perfect

answer for those wanting to stay 100% organic when using

Canna’s Bio Vega and Bio Flores nutrients. BioBoost will work in all

systems like CannaBoost. Both products affect the energy systems

of the plant in the way described.

A signifi cant part of both products is the oligosaccharines that result

from the breakdown of the bio components. These are basically

small protein chains and cell wall chains that mimic enzymes,

hormones and growth regulators. They stimulate key things in a

plant such as the immune system (which turns on and acts as a

preventer), alkaloid and essential oil production, infl uences protein

synthesis allowing the cells to become denser, and strongly trigger

the ‘organic’ taste in consumed plant components. So, instead of

trying to fi nd many products to do the same thing (can’t be done),

a grower can invest in CannaBoost and BioBoost and get them all

in one package.

What growers fail to realize is that it is not how many different

items you put into the tank, it is what you put in the tank. All too

often, growers become excited by the hype and promises in the

advertising instead of taking the time to do the one thing that

would guarantee their success, learn how to grow.

Growing is not buying a machine that you plug seeds in on one

side, a medium in the middle, and a completed harvest pops out

the end. Seems this process is similar to the digestive system, and

the results are usually the same at the end. Growing is carefully

balancing all the needs of the plant, feed, water, light, humidity,

temperature, and grower temperament. There is no one solution

for any plant, location, environment, situation or grower. A grower

has to be hands-on and on top of the process from greenhouse/

fi eld/room design, to plant selection, growing on, and harvesting.

The only magic bullet in growing is the grower.

So if you feel your garden needs help, it just is not the same anymore,

the plants are tired, or you are tired, then change. Change the

medium, change the cycle, change the container, change the plant,

change your knowledge base, or change the grower: but don’t

jump off into that never-ending hunt to see how many different

additives a plant will tolerate before it morphs into the alien from

Little Shop of Horrors. Everything you

put into the root system adds up.

It will affect the other components

you add to the slurry. It will increase

the salts, overdose the silicates, or

lead to vitamin toxicity. Look for the

solution in how the crop is treated,

and get that right fi rst. Then use

the simplest, cleanest feed possible

that does not require 5, 10, or

20 additives. After all, it is a poor

grower that blames his/her tools;

knowledge is the key to success.


Doktor Doom

Spider Mite

Knockout

applied to

the under side

of the foliage

Doktor DoomFoggers appliedafter a thoroughapplication ofthe DoktorDoom SpiderMite Knockout

FOR SPIDER MITEELIMINATION

DOKTOR DOOM TAKES BUGS SERIOUSLY - WE KILL THEM

the one-two punchthe one-two punch

theuppercut

theover-headbomb

PREMIUM QUALITYINSECTICIDES

1theuppercut

2theover-headbomb

Ask for Doktor Doom at your favorite indoor garden center

www.doktordoom.com

Photo: Daniel Fortin

This genus is particularly appreciated for its easy to cultivate species and cultivars, and is worthy of interest. They are possibly the indoor plants that survive best in the diffi cult conditions of our homes and apartments. They tolerate a low light and a low humidity rate for many weeks on end.

Aglaonema, from the Araceae, include about twenty species, all originating from the tropical humid areas of Southeastern Asia. The genus resembles Diffenbachia, plants whose natural distribution occurs exclusively in South America. Only nine species of the Aglaonema genus are more or less easy to fi nd on the market: Aglaonema bicolensis, A. commutatum, A. costatum, A. crispum, A. modestum, A. nitidum, A. pictum, A. picturata, A. pinavensis and A. tricolor. However, over a hundred cultivars can be found, derived from the main species. On many species and on most cultivars, the leaf blade bears lines, veins or colourful stains. On Aglaonema costatum, only the central vein is coloured pale green, while on the foliage of A. commutatum, the limb’s surface is crossed by silvery green abstract lines at more or less regular intervals. These lines are much larger on the leaves of l’A. commutata ‘Pseudobracteatum’ Many cultivars, such as ‘Silver Queen’ and ‘Silver King’, bear leaves stained or marbled with pale green, cream or silver. These two are still the ones most often found in plant stores. The A. nitidum species has leaves streaked with silver, while the magnifi cent ‘Silver Bay’ cultivar has a limb whose silver tone clearly overtakes the green.

Easy Tropical Plants: AglaonemaBy Daniel Fortin


TIPS & TRICKS

21VOLUME 3 – ISSUE 3 THE INDOOR GARDENER

Phot

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l For

tinTIPS & TRICKS

The stems, 30 to 70 cm in height, bear lanceolate leaves, approximately 30 centimetres long. Like all Araceae, Aglaonema produce a particular infl orescence, a kind of infl ated spike, called a spadix, surrounded by a transformed leave called a spathe. It is produced at the junction of the superior leaves. These spathes, unfortunately, do not have the shape or colour of those found on Spathyphyllum or Anthuriums; they remain discrete and without real ornamental value. Under a bright light and a high humidity rate, the various species and cultivars tend to keep an abundant and bushy foliage. In our heated low-humidity apartments, plants often go bare at the base, often only keeping a more or less signifi cant tuft of leaves at the top of the stems. It is relatively easy to fi x this problem by regularly taking cuttings off the plants. To do this, remove, in May or early June, the topmost part of the stems, about 30 centimetres. Place it in a pot fi lled with a moist mixture of soil, peat moss and perlite or vermiculite. Ideally, these cuttings should be covered with a translucent plastic sheet, to maintain humidity.

Particular CareAglaonema like a diffuse to bright light, but never full sunlight. They can be placed outdoors in the summer, but make sure they stay in the shade. They grow at normal living temperatures in an apartment, but ensure the temperature does not dip under 10 degrees (C).

This plant prefers a high humidity rate, but survives well in the rather dry atmosphere found in our homes. It requires regular and abundant waterings. Never leave the substrate dry out over more than a few centimetres. During the winter, it is useful to place the pot on a layer of rocks in water. Between mid-April and the end of August, provide a liquid nutrient every month.

Only repot these plants approximately every three years.

They are not very susceptible to pests, but do keep an eye out for scale insects, as they can settle on the plants. If needed, a shower of warm water or a spraying with an insecticidal soap should treat this problem.

Sex MobTaraf de Haïdouks

Sex Mobfrom the rich and were generous to the poor. To tell the truth, my impressions upon hearing the fi rst songs are undescribable. It is quite a sensation to see and hear a musical cataclysm such as provided by Romani music, giving the listener the impression of travelling from India to Europe... The fi lm No Man Is a Prophet in His Own Land (2001) by Elsa Dahmanig gives a good impression of this polyphonic aspect. Since the Latcho Drom soundtrack (1993), Taraf de Haïdouks has released seven albums, the last one in 2005. Get them now, and play them non-stop in your indoor garden, for your health, and that of your plants!

In March 2001, Romanian group Taraf de Haïdouks came to give its fi rst concerts in Montreal, Minneapolis, Santa Barbara, etc. The Gypsy music group became famous in the early 1990s following the excellent movie Latcho Drom by French Romani Tony Gatlif. I had neither seen the fi lm nor heard its soundtrack, and I was quite surprised when I saw the musicians before their Montreal concert. Aged 30 to 78, the nine musicians that came for the 2001 North American tour were quietly waiting for the concert to begin. They gave no hint of the musical fury they were about to unleash on stage. The group’s members are “lăutari”, traditional Romanian and Romani musicians who travel from village to village to play at weddings and baptisms (see: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lăutari).

Taraf de Haïdouks means “group of truants” and was named thus in honour of the Haïdouks, a kind of Gypsy Robin Hood group, who stole

By J. Desjardins

Grassroots Music for Plants (and Gardeners)

Romani music gives the listener the impression of travelling from India to Europe...

Phot

os: G

ram

med

Dis

cs, E

lekt

ra/A

sylu

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Reco

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Ros

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www.grotek.net

NEW

NEW

NEW

NEWNEWNEW

NEWNEWNEW

IM-I-TA-TION...IM-I-TA-TION...

... the sincerest form of flattery... the sincerest form of flattery

1. a copy of an original 2. meant to resemble something superior

CURRENTGROTEK MONSTER BLOOMWHITE BUCKET

GROTEK MONSTER BLOOM

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HOLOGRAM ON LABEL

FRENCH OR SPANISH

TRANSLATION

Watch for the NEW Grotek Monster Bloom silver bucket coming soon to a retailer near you.Insist on the best and only purchase your Grotekfrom an authorized dealer.

For more information and ordering, contact: 1.888.747.4769 604.882.7699

“The Indoor Gardener Magazine is fi lled with very good info, everything is there!“

“C.B.”, January 2007http://forums.gardenweb.com/forums

The Indoor Gardener Magazine is celebrating two years in business with its 13th issue.

From Volume 1 Issue 1 to Volume 3 Issue 1, get a collection of the best articles on indoor gardening out there!

JOIN US AND OUR READERS!

The Industry Is Raving About The Indoor Gardener Magazine

And The Blogosphere Is Raving Too…

“Insightful”, “Informative”, “Superb”, “Sensational”, “Multiple talents”,

“Attractive”, “Eye catching”, “Super”...

“Many thanks for your insightful publication”Jonathan D. Cardinale, May 2007LED Grow-Master Global LLCwww.led-grow-master.com

“Bravo for your [magazine] project, it is very nice indeed!”

Marielys Lorthios, March 2007Professional Horticultural Photographer

www.marielys-lorthios.comwww.photographic.fr

“Your new series [volume 2, issue 1, etc.] is superb…!”Pierre Bonnard, February 2007CityPlanteswww.cityplantes.com “We have just discovered your SUPER

magazine...”Blandine and Thierry Bellanger, November 2006Hydro Kult Grow Shopwww.growmaps.com/Rhone-Alpes

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“New Title Archive 2006: The Indoor Gardener Magazine from Canada is your total

entertainment magazine... packed with information.”

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COME AND GROW WITH US! For any information, comment or request, contact: [email protected]. For sales and advertising, contact: [email protected] or 1 450 628-5325.

If you want to send us pictures and articles, please contact us at: [email protected] with “submission” in the subject line and we will get in touch with you.

P.O. Box 52046, Laval, QC, H7P 5S1, Canada Tel: 1 450 628-5325, fax: 1 450 628-7758, www.tigmag.com

“I ran across a free issue of The Indoor Gardener Magazine that my wife got a while ago (Dec. 2005 issue) and I was actually impressed with some of

the articles in it...”“Drumin”, June 2006

http://forums.gardenweb.com/forums“The October 2005 issue of The Indoor Gardener Magazine got me hooked!”“Fing_57”, March 2006http://forums.gardenweb.com/forums

Photos:

Always water plants with the nutrient solution, unless the plant has become dehydrated, in which case you should water with plain water. Once the leaves are rehydrated, water with

the nutrient solution. Dehydrating a plant on purpose only weakens the inside cell wall structure and creates undue stress for the plant. All plants grow at different speeds. This is due to health, condition of soil, watering techniques, placement of the plants under the light, location of vent fans and so on. When you are uncomfortable (sweating, cold or hot), your plants are probably uncomfortable too... and they can’t leave the room. Remember that plants grow through transpiration of moisture through the leaves; if the room is full of humidity, the plants can’t transpire water. Before your next crop, plan ahead and get properly prepared. We realize that we have given you a lot to do, but it is worth the extra bit of work to have the best taste and the best yield possible. There is nothing else that we recommend to use, unless your garden gets sick.

Remember: look after your garden and your garden will look after you!

Important Info: you can obtain information and descriptions of all G.E.T. products on our website: http://bandbhydroponics.com/get.html.

TIPS & TRICKS

How To Rehydrate A Plant

By W.S.



Photos: Bruno BredouxSEASON’S TIPS

If we look at a soil sample mixed with fresh manure

under a microscope, we discover a veritable miniature

city, a metropolis whose inhabitants are the nematodes

who dig like drilling heads, crazy mites and acarids

and, feeding with frenzy, tiny fungi who feed on roots

and feed the nematodes, good bacteria who colonize

for the greater good, and so on.

The success of a crop in soil depends largely on this

microscopic life that swarms about. A plant does not

only feed on the nutriments and nutritive elements

we give it. To survive, it needs this constant interaction between the

micro-organisms, bacteria and fungi that live in the soil. Plants emit

carbohydrates at the root level. The soil’s bacteria and fungi feeds on

these carbohydrates and make nitrogen, proteins, phosphorus and

many other organic elements that are in turn released into the soil,

making it richer for plant growth.

This obvious concept of the handful of dirt as a microcosm

benefi cial to plant growth long remained the exclusive knowledge

of a small group of people made up of microbiologists and rare

and exotic plant enthusiasts. These last 30 years, however,

gardeners in general (the general public, one could say) have

increasingly become interested in organic culture. In four years,

1999-2003, the sales of organic soil in the United States have

more than tripled, reaching 11.7 million homes (according to the

National Gardening Association).

Occasional gardeners now go so far as to take a soil sample to be

analyzed in a laboratory, in order to know which soil amendment

will be best for it. Such an analysis can cost anywhere from $15

to $75, depending on whether it is performed at a regional

university centre or at a private lab facility. Soil density is another

important factor: the speed at which it absorbs water can play a

crucial role in proper plant growth.

There is a simple way to know your soil’s drainage speed. Dig

a hole, 30 centimetres deep and 15 centimetres wide. Scar

the sides with a garden scraper and cover the bottom with 5

centimetres of sand. Fill the rest of the hole with water.

You can then time the water absorption. It should not

be too quick. In this kind of test, a good average is

around 2.5 centimetres of absorbed water per hour. In

this example, it would mean that the water is absorbed

in 10 hours.

To fi x a soil that doesn’t drain well, you will need to

work on it and make it more aerated. Afterwards, add

a mixture of roughly sieved and rinsed sand, compost,

decomposing dead leaves and fermented manure. Once

this type of soil has been prepared, avoid digging it up

too often. A new underground city will develop in this

soil and if you dig into it, you will create cataclysms in this small world.

A soil that would be over-rich in nutrients, however, could also be a

negative environment for plants. How do you fi nd out? It’s simple:

browning leaves tell you that their nutrition level is saturated or too high.

When leaves turn brown, many gardeners mistakenly add synthetic or

Morphological Change, Morphological Change, Physiological DevelopmentPhysiological DevelopmentThere Is Life In A Handful Of Dirt!There Is Life In A Handful Of Dirt!By V. Green

Phot

o: B

runo

Bre

doux

SEASON’S TIPSchemical products to the soil, which contain too much nitrogen. The

immediate effect will be to bring the leaves back to a shiny green, but

the excess nitrogen will also turn the soil into the perfect environment

for the development of pathogens. Much the same, badly prepared

organic composts can cause damage and can contain some dangerous

bacteria, such as E. coli. Always verify the origin and composition of

what you use.

Be very careful when adding mulch to the garden. Mulch can come

from diseased trees or from trees that bore pathogens when they

were mulched. The same way, badly-prepared compost teas can cause

more problems than they solve. It is best always to buy OMRI-certifi ed

products. Why not invest in a compost tea machine? They are more

and more affordable, and you will know exactly what your compost tea

contains (see www.composttea.com, for example, or read the article

written by Carole Ann Rollins of the University of Nevada (Environmental

Policy and Management) and cofounder of Nature Technology, a

company that specializes in compost teas and their equipment, in our

volume 1, issue 4 – see also www.nature-technologies.com). These

days, most botanical gardens’ municipal training centres offer courses

on how to make these trendy compost teas.

Also trendy are most organic products, such as bat guano or Galapagos

Islands’ bird guano, nematodes that prey on pathogenic larvae, benefi cial

fungi, vitamin B-1 compounds, holistic compost teas, etc. Before you

rush into a gardening centre to buy samples of these products, thinking

you would give your soil “a little bit of everything”, you must know

exactly what your soil lacks and needs. While we think that “a little

bit of everything” can do no harm, we are usually wrong. In fact, “a

little bit of everything” can often simply make an unhealthy soil a little

worse off. For plants that must go through the proper morphological

changes for the best possible physiological development, add what the

soil needs, in the proper quantity! There is life in a handful of dirt! It

must be preserved and maintained. Think about this small world like

you think of your pets: give it the best, in proper quantities.

Sources: articles “The Push Is On For Good Clean Food”, by Anne Raver, The New York Times, March 3rd, 2005 and “Compost Tea in Hydroponics: How to Convert from Synthetic Chemical Control to Biological Control” by Carole Ann Rollins, University of Nevada, The Indoor Gardener, vol.1, issue 4, December 2005/January 2006, www.nature-technologies.com and www.composttea.com.

Photos: © 2007 EastSide Im

pexGEAR

This growing chamber is

specifi cally designed to

successfully bring a crop to

maturity safely.

This new version provides

you with more fl exibility. It

is delivered in a cardboard

box with complete assembly

instructions. Finally, a all-ready

gardening space!

Its size was designed to

allow for most hydroponic

garden models available. Put your imagination to the test: many

confi gurations are possible!

The thick tarp prevents the infi ltration of parasitic light on

your plants during the night cycle. The zippers, wide doors

and well placed velcro ties give you an ideal access for garden

maintenance.

The HOMEBOX XXL has the following characteristics:• Growing chamber: 2 x 1.2 x 2 metres.

• Aluminium tubing structure.

• Slipcover made of composite tarp: black PVC exterior fabric,

coated, with thick white highly refl ective tarp inside.

• Double white fl oor tarp with removable water-recuperation tray

for easy cleanup.

• Three low openings for aeration with anti-insect net and anti-

light fl ap.

• Elbow aeration sleeve (light-tight) in the roof.

• Metallic structure under the top face, with two fabric straps

to easily suspend any accessory: refl ector, Cool Tube, extractor,

multiple D.C. input boxes, electronic pH and electro-conductivity

meter, hygrothermometer, automatic ventilation equipment, CO2

diffusion, carbon fi lters, etc.

• Fits two 600 W lamps or three 400 W.

It is very easy to open it using its zippers. Its inside is covered in a

Mylar®-type refl ective white plastic fi lm.

At its bottom are the air entries and a junction for an air entry fan.

A watertight and removable tray allows you to clean the fl oor. On

the top part of the tarp, a suspension system allows you to solidly

install a carbon fi lter, the lamp and various instruments. There is

also an air exit.

Assembling this growing chamber is quite simple. The complete

assembly requires only twenty minutes and no tool.

Taking it apart and putting it back together is just as easy. The

Homebox is made of a very resistant material, is watertight and

light-tight.

Specifi cations:

Size, wrapped: 122 x 73 x 12 cm;

Size, assembled: 240 x 120 x 200 cm;

Weight: 23.90 kg.

Information and orders:

EastSide-Impex, Tiniusstraße 9-11,13089 Berlin, Germany,

tel.: +49 30 47004283, fax: +49 30 260 79 335, email:

[email protected] and see: www.eastside-impex.de.

Canadian distribution:

PowerGrow System Ltd., Vancouver, BC, tel.: 604 468-1994 or see:

www.powergrowcanada.com.

USA distribution:

Bloomington Wholesale, Bloomington, IN,

tel: 1 800 316-1306 or see: www.bwgs.com.

HOMEBOX XXL The 2.88m3 Growing Chamber (120 x 120 x 240 cm) by EastSide Impex


Photos: Bruno BredouxGALLERY

Garden Decorative Elements – 2007/2008 Collection(pictures taken at Flora 2007’s indoor gardening boutique, Montréal)

Planter covered by a mesh cloth.

Table and chairs for winter garden.

Ibis fountain.

Pot, colours matching the colours of fl owers.

Wicker decorative elements.

Large format vase,

to be placed on the

ground.


Phot

os: B

runo

Bre

doux

GALLERY

Imitation is considered the best form of flattery. Why settle for imitations, when you can have the original.

AXC fans have been there from the beginning, and still continue to silently out-perform.

Complete with pre-wired 120 Volt power cords, AXC fans are available in sizes from 4” to 14”. Air move-ment ranges from 106 cfm to 1400 cfm.

Continental Fan Manufacturing Inc.Tel: 800-779-4021 www.continentalfan.com

Aeroflo Inc.Tel: 905-890-6192 www.aeroflo.com

USA

CANADA

Esoteric-design fountain, reminding one of a solar temple.

Hanging planter hidden in a wicker basket.


Photo: © Échos du Chanvre

TECHNIQUES

“Never let your schooling interfere with your education” – Mark Twain.

Here’s our second comprehensive and complete take on

cloning advices for our beloved Indoor Gardener Magazine

readers... We like to experiment with our best plants... We

like plants so much we made their cultivation our career to

enjoy and forecast groundbreaking horticultural issues. We

publish a lot of articles and advice on our website (www.

cityplantes.com). But to give you the latest news about what

we are currently working toward, the next big plateau in our

horticultural career – cloning our favourite crops –, we asked for

the help of a reputed indoor gardener. He has been working at a

hydroponic garden store in upstate New York for fi ve years and is

currently living in Florida, where he is experimenting new techniques

for mushroom cultivation. Below, you will fi nd his “accelerated”

method to clone plants, in opposition to our extensive traditional

method published earlier this year. So, in this issue of The Indoor

Gardener Magazine. we take on the cloning and regeneration of

that favorite plant of yours that’s seemingly a little pooped out

lately.

I – How to Make A Good Thing Last (G.H.)This year I grew 12 different annual exotic huge fl ower bearing

plants (common red tropical hibiscuses and Chinese hibiscuses or

Hibiscus rosa sinensis)* outdoors. Eleven of them produced some

pretty big infl orescences, but the twelfth one was something

special. It had to be the best infl orescence production I ever saw.

I was asking myself: “Is there any way I can make my beloved

plant give me another bloom of those wonderful fl owers again?

How about cloning?” A friend told me: “It is still not too late to

regenerate that baby. If regeneration is successful, you can clone.”

[* I know, hibiscus is considered a perennial, but if, like where I live, your area is subject to freezing temperatures, your common and Chinese hibiscuses must either be treated as annuals and allowed to freeze, or be protected during cold weather, or cloned. If greenhouse space is available, plants may be dug, placed in containers, and replanted in the landscape after the danger of frost has passed. Even the southern most extremes of Texas, California, Louisiana or Florida occasionally experience suffi cient cold to kill these very fragile plants.]

Let’s see...

You’ll have a very diffi cult time

trying to clone a plant that is in fl ower. A fl owering plant will

almost never form roots, so taking a clip of your favourite plant and

putting it in some dirt is only going to be a waste of some good

specimen. You need to make the plant revert back to vegetative

growth before attempting to clone. This is a mistake many

growers make – they wait to see which plants will give the best

infl orescences and then try to clone them without reverting them

back to vegetative growth. The result is a very low success rate and

a whole lot of a fungal infection known as “damping off”.

To make a plant go back to vegetative growth, increase its light

cycle to more than 18 hours of light per day. A good vegetative

fertilizer should be added, such as 30-10-10 with micronutrients.

It will not hurt the plant to light them 24 hours a day; and this will

increase growth. After a few days, the familiar growth pattern will

emerge from your tiny plantlet – fi rst one leaf, then three, then

fi ve, just like a seedling. After about two weeks, rapid vegetative

growth will begin.

You can begin to take cuttings for clones anytime after the rapid

growth begins, but it is wise to wait until the original plant is big

enough to provide a great many clones to insure success. Re-

potting the plant into a much bigger planter will help to insure a

better selection of clone material. A three gallon or larger planter

By G. Hannafi n, P. Bonnard and J.-P. Daimé

Successful Cuttings - Part 2: “Accelerated”

Method

Phot

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aure

nt F

.TECHNIQUES

will provide plenty of root space for a clone providing plant. Ideally

this original plant will never go to fl ower again, but will be grown

tall and wide to provide years of perfect clones. It should be lit for

18-24 hours the rest of its life because if it goes to fl ower a second

time it will almost certainly die.

Once you have a plant big and bushy enough to work with, it is

time to start cloning. Go over to your local state university and very

politely ask to use their ten-million-dollar gene-splicing facilities.

...No, wait, that’s for cloning your little brother. To clone your

favourite plant, you’ll only need a sharp razor knife, some cold

running water, and a place to plant your newly cut clones.

The best way to plant new clones is in three inch pots using a

soilless mixture of vermiculite, perlite, and sphagnum or peat

moss. Starter trays can be used, but the newly growing clones will

become root-bound in a matter of days and will require a recovery

period when transplanted. Three inch pots will give your new

babies the room their roots need and give you more time to work

when it comes time to put them in bigger pots for fl owering. The

pots should be watered with spring water, but no fertilizer to start

off. The planting mix should be moist and airy. If you can squeeze

water out of a handful of it, it is too wet; add vermiculite until it

feels right.

To take cuttings from your original plant, fi nd a long branch with

plenty of nodes, and cut it off close to the stem. Do not clip the

end off of every branch. Remember that cutting into a live plant is

a bit like cutting into you – the plant will bleed. Cut off one branch,

it bleeds a little. Cut the end off every branch, it bleeds a lot. Make

too many cuts too deeply; and your precious plant will die. A good

clone does not need to be the end of a branch, and there are many

points along a branch that will make good cloning material.

Once you have your branch picked out and cut off; take it over

to the sink. At this point you should have your tools all laid out

right near the sink, all your pots should be fi lled with moist potting

mixture and placed within arm’s reach of the sink. Let the water

run cold, and put the branch under the running water.

Using a sharp razor knife, hold the end of the branch under the

water and cut the tip off the branch. The cut must be made at an

angle, and the point of the cut must be completely submerged in

water while the cut is being made. This is because air cannot be

allowed into the plant’s circulatory system. If any air gets in, the

new clone will not be able to draw water and it will wither and die.

Once the cut is made, the cutting should be placed immediately in

one of the prepared pots. Work quickly and carefully. The amount

of material needed for each clone is one leaf and one node. The

Photos: D.R

.

ideal clone material is a 6 mm section

of branch with a node, a leaf growing

out of the node, and tiny leaves

beginning at the point of the node.

The clone material should be set into

the soil just deep enough to bury the

section of branch, with the node and

the leaf exposed to the air.

Once you have all of your cuttings

planted, they will need to be kept in

a warm, humid environment. Dry air

will kill them. A good way to keep them humid is to place them

in a plastic sweater box with the lid on. Place several clones into a

sweater box along with a perlite fi lled cup with a few centimetres

of water in it. The perlite will give off moisture that’ll be trapped in

the sweater box. A fl uorescent light placed close to or on top of the

sweater box will provide heat and light. The sweater box should be

opened twice a day to let in fresh air.

You will know if your cuttings have taken root when they start to

grow. Once growth is seen, the new clones will need to be moved

into bigger pots as soon as possible or they will become root-bound

and their growth will be stunted. Each one of your new clones will

be genetically identical to the original plant with the same potency

and the same fl owering production capacity. If you replace the

original plant every couple of years with one of the clones, you

will be able to clone that plant over and over for years until you

have a full garden of the exact same replicas. At that time, send me

photos of your successful cuttings ([email protected])...

II – Perlite and Vermiculite: The Best Mix For Your New Plantlets (G.H.)When you’re planning on starting your fi rst garden and feeding

your freshly emerging clones, all the books you can read mention

perlite and vermiculite as being absolutely necessary. What

are they? Where can you get them? And won’t the clerk in the

store know what you’re exactly want? Perlite and vermiculite are

common soil additives used by gardeners everywhere to improve

soil aeration and water-holding properties.

Perlite is white sand that’s

been heated to about 3,000

degrees, at which point it

pops like popcorn and each

grain of sand expands to

many times its original size.

Perlite is very lightweight

and will hold a great deal of

water, oxygen and nutrients

in its pores.

Vermiculite is mica – a

fl aky brown mineral that is

also used to make Formica

tabletops. Its shiny surfaces

trap air bubbles within the soil to give your plant’s roots much

needed oxygen. It also provides some nutrients and holds water

well. You can buy both perlite and vermiculite at your local mega-

home-and-garden mart, fl orists, nursery supply stores, and just

about any store with a plant department.

Perlite and vermiculite are both so widely used nowadays in

gardening and landscaping that just about every gardener

needs some from time to time. Use common sense – if they are

so extensively used now in indoor gardening, when you ask the

clerk if he can give you some advice on a choice of perlite and

vermiculite mixes for indoor gardening, he sure knows what he

is talking about! There are a lot of products made of both these

ingredients on the market and they’re all about the same quality,

so just trust your hydroponic store clerk’s choice!

III – Material: For Cuttings, CityPlantes Boutiques recommend...(P.B. and J.-P.D.)a) The “First seeds, fi rst cuttings” kit

This is the ideal kit to successfully use seeds or get clones for the

fi rst time. Installed in a few minutes, it allows you to start plants at

home, all year long! This complete system includes:

* A tray with 96 rockwool caps;

* A 15 pot mini-greenhouse;

* 15 ml of SUPERthrive;

* 500 ml of Hesi Root Complex;

* Instructions.

b) Hesi’s Clonfi x Gel Rooting Hormones, 50 ml

Hesi’s Clonfi x is practical and easy to use: the gel adheres perfectly

to cuttings. It is a new rooting gel synthesized from 100% organic

elements, which stimulates root formation just like natural auxins.

These gel rooting hormones are very effi cient at the callus level, the

plant tissue that forms at the site of a wound (in 50 ml vial).

c) Growth technology’s Ionic Clonex, 50 ml

Ionic Clonex instantaneously closes cutting tissues, eliminating the

risk of infection or embolism. It also contains 3,000 ppm of rooting

hormones as well as trace minerals and basic nutritive elements. Its

gel consistency is more effi cient than liquids or powders because it

cannot drip or be dispersed.

d) Growth technology’s Ionic Root Matrix Gel, 1 l

Ionic Root Matrix is a new rooting substrate with unique benefi ts.

The rooting process is visible from one end to the other. It requires

little surveillance: you only need to add water to compensate its

loss. It is easy to manipulate:

You only need to plant the

cuttings in the gel. Once

rooted, the plantlet can await

transplantation longer. It allows

you to transport the cuttings

easily. Ionic Root Matrix can

be used as a substrate for

ornamentals or can replace

water in cut fl ower bouquets.


TECHNIQUES

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os: C

ityP

lant

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One litre rooting gel bottle, containing rooting hormones and plant

nutriments.

e) Mini greenhouse 36 x 22 x 13 cm with 15 Jiffypots

This mini-greenhouse offers many advantages:

* It is affordable.

* It is made of light and insulating PVC.

* Its basket pots can accommodate many kinds of substrates.

* It has an individual support for each pot.

* It contains 15 basket pots with their supporting tray.

f) Large Cloning Greenhouse With Translucent Lid 60 x 40

x 22 cm

With its high lid, this greenhouse allows you to clone large

branches or to seed rapid-growth plants. It also allows you to let

the cuttings grow and get strong, making their re-potting easy.

Made of thermoformed plastic, this greenhouse offers the best

price/quality ratio.

g) Translucent Thermoformed Crystal Cover 60 x 40 x 16 cm

This high lid, associated with the tray below, can make a very

affordable cuttings’ greenhouse. Ideal for the above greenhouse.

h) Cloning Greenhouse Tray 60 x 40 x 6 cm

This tray fi ts the crystal lid, above. Its bottom has no holes, so it can

also be used as an under-pot tray. The bottom has grooves to easily

drain out excess water.

i) Growth Technology’s Root Riot Tray With 24 cubes

With this tray, germination is easy! These spongy cubes are made

from wood fi bre, latex and other natural components that make

germination and cloning easier. They stay well aerated while

retaining water, they do not dry out

and they offer the ideal environment

for young roots. Each tray has 24 2 x

2 x 4 cm blocks.

As regards the 12 pot (590 x 390 x

300 mm) and 20 pot (590 x 390 x

300 mm) aeroponic Nutri-Propagator

by Nutriculture, see our article in the

previous issue of The Indoor Gardener

(volume 3, issue 2) from September/

October 2007 at pages 28-32.

TECHNIQUES


Photo: Kerrie R. B

arneyTESTIMONY

The year I graduated from high school, I became sick with an extended illness. It was quite a blow, in more ways then one. Not only did I miss prom and graduation and

all the other traditional senior year activities, but my college plans had to be put on hold. I was in bed for months, and cabin fever conspired to drive me almost as crazy as the illness itself. Sometimes, despite my doctor’s constant assurances to the contrary, it seemed like I was never going to get well.

I was lucky. My friends and family all rallied around me, keeping the VCR fi lled with movies and the bedside table loaded with interesting books. My Uncle Carl, affectionately nicknamed “Unc”, was a particular bright spot: he fi lled my mailbox with comics, very bad jokes, and beautiful pictures he’d taken of the wildlife and fl owers around his home. But the best thing Unc ever did was to bring me a cutting of a golden pothos plant, somewhat haphazardly set into a cracked plastic seedling pot. “There you go, young lady,” he said, setting the pot down amongst the clutter of magazines and prescription pill bottles that covered my bedside table. “You need something green and growing in your room if you want to get well.”

I must admit that, at the time, I was less than impressed. Over the course of my illness, I’d been given many fl owers as get-well presents, from the dandelions picked by my young neighbors next door to the cellophane-wrapped grocery-store bouquets my classmates brought. In comparison, the little pothos cutting looked bleak, to put it mildly, sitting alone in its battered pot with only three limp leaves to its name. “It’s very nice,” I said doubtfully, and politely searched for an objection that wouldn’t hurt my uncle’s feelings. “But

I’m not sure I can take care of it, Unc. Cut fl owers are one thing-nobody expects me to keep them alive for more than a week or so. But plants are different. And it’s not like I have a green thumb under the best of circumstances.”

“That’s why I brought you this,” Unc said cheerfully. “The plant I took this cutting from has been living in a dark corner of my offi ce for years. I fi gured that if it can survive that, it can survive anything. All you have to do is keep it watered, like this.” He took the carafe of water from the bedside table and carefully gave the cutting a good dousing. “Oh,” he added as an afterthought, “and you have to talk to it, keep it from getting lonely. I think this plant looks like a Brian, doesn’t he?”

I was skeptical. I was more than skeptical – I thought my beloved Unc had temporarily taken leave of his senses. I was sure that by the end of the week, if not that very day, I would be left with a collection of dead leaves. But much to my surprise, Brian persisted in staying alive. Somehow, he even managed to grow, sending out tiny shoots that ripened into truly stunning green and yellow leaves. On bad days, I would just lie with my head on the pillow and watch the sunshine make ever-changing pattern on his leaves. On good days, I’d water the plant and fuss over him, telling him what a good job he was doing, how strong and beautiful he was becoming. And as Brian’s vines grew longer, an interesting thing began to happen. I no longer began to feel quite so isolated, quite so angry at being cut off from college and my friends. Instead, I began to feel intensely connected to this tiny slip of a plant, bonded in a way I’d never expected. And eventually I realized that you don’t have to go college to learn important things. Brian was teaching me more than any university professor ever could.

Those of you who choose to share your lives with houseplants know exactly what I’m talking about. Tending those tiny, fragile shoots of green teaches us so much. We learn about our own power, how our small actions of watering and

The Miracle of the

Golden PothosBy Kerrie R. Barney

Phot

o: K

erri

e R

. Bar

ney

TESTIMONY

fertilizing and yes, affectionate speech, can make a difference from day to day to day. We learn that the human heart can tangle its affections around the most unlikely objects, just like a pothos twines around its pot. We learn about mystery, and surprise, because even the most inexperienced indoor gardener often has plants turn out in ways she never expected. Most of all, we learn that almost nothing is truly hopeless, that life has a way of recreating itself and thriving even under the most challenging conditions. As Brian grew bigger and stronger, so did I; by the time he had outgrown his fi rst pot, I was well enough to be out of bed for short periods. The fi rst thing I did when I was able stand up again was to transplant Brian into a newer, lovely ceramic pot with my own hand. And by the time that pot too had grown too small, I was strong enough to leave my sickroom behind for good. I packed up Brian along with my clothes and my books, and we ventured out into the world together.

It’s been more than ten years now since my uncle brought me that fi rst fragile start. The original Brian has long since gone to the great greenhouse in the sky, but thanks to the miracle of the golden pothos’ ability to start over from fresh cuttings, one of Brian’s descendants has shared every place I’ve called home. Today I have a particularly healthy specimen growing on a stand near my computer, so that I can look at it whenever I’m writing and the words refuse to come. Their beauty is a constant reminder not to give up, that life may change drastically but always continues on. And when I look, I wonder if my Unc had any idea what he was really doing when he snipped a four inch section of plant and stuck it in a pot to cheer up his favorite niece.

I imagine that he did.


PLANT CLASSIFICATION Photos: D

.R. &

1Jardin2Plantes

The cacao tree, a small shrub that produces

the cocoa pods that contain the cocoa

beans, comes from the basins of the Orinoco

(Venezuela), from Amazonia (Brazil), where it has

always grown wild, and from the low altitude hills of the

precordillera of the Andes (Ecuador). At the end of the 19th

Century, Venezuela alone produced half of the world’s cocoa.

Although it comes from South America, the cacao tree adapted

well to other tropical climates, and in particular to the African

climate. The fi rst African cacao-tree experiment was performed in

1822, when Portuguese explorer José Ferreira Gomes implanted

a species brought back from Venezuela onto an island of the

Guinean Gulf. The cacao tree’s cultivation then quickly spread to

Ghana, the Ivory Coast, to Asia (Ceylon, Java, Sumatra, Insulinde,

the Philippines and Malaysia) and Oceania (New Guinea, Solomon

Islands and Vanuatu). The fi rst to exploit the cacao tree, however,

were the primitive populations of Mesoamerica, in particular

those of Mexico and Guatemala. There are 22 species of cacao

tree – only one is cultivated, which includes three varieties, each

with its own taste, fl owering and production characteristics.

The Origins Of ChocolateIt was fi rst the Maya, then the Toltecs and fi nally the Aztecs

who truly institutionalized the cultivation of the cacao tree. We

do not know how the Maya got specimens from the region

now belonging to Venezuela (probably trough barter), but they

introduced its agricultural exploitation in Yucatan, in Central

America, around 400 A.C. First used as bartering tools and

bargaining chips, cocoa beans were also the basis for a bitter,

nourishing and fortifying drink, very different from the one we

now know. By observing squirrels and monkeys sucking the pulp

out of the beans, the Maya knew that the cacao tree’s fruit was

edible. We still do not know, however, what gave them the idea

to transform the cocoa beans to obtain, after much effort and

complex manipulations, the drink that is chocolate’s ancestor.

Between 800 and 1100 A.D., the Toltecs extended the cacao tree’s

cultivation to the south of current Mexico, in the entire gulf area.

This civilization revered the cacao tree, and left it as its heritage to

its successors, the Aztecs. It was them who, culturally, elaborated

chocolate’s mythology. They

named the drink extracted

from the pods “Tchocoatl”

or “Xocoatl”, meaning “bitter

water” or “fermented water”,

which will give us “chocolate”,

while in the nahuatl language,

it is called “cacàhualt”, which

will become “cacao”.

This “bitter water” is

venerated and thought to be

a food of the gods. It plays

a fundamental role in all offi cial ceremonies, from weddings to

human sacrifi ces, including mortuary commemorations. This

sacred drink is omnipresent in all aspects of life. An Aztec legend

tells of Quetzalcóatl, god of plants, descending on earth under

the guise of a snake covered in quetzal feathers, navigating on

a ray of sunshine. He brings his earth-bound children a present:

cacao trees from the heavenly gardens. He teaches them how

to cultivate the plants and how to harvest the pods. The beans

taken from the pods are left to ferment for a few days in water.

They are then washed, dried in the sun, crushed with a mortar,

and fi nally ground on burning stones heated from underneath.

The preparation thus obtained is stirred until it turns into a thick

paste, which is fl avoured with ginger, honey and pepper powder.

The mixture is then heated, and corn fl our is sometimes added.

The mixture is left to cool. The cacao “butter” slowly surfaces. A

great part of it is taken, and the rest is re-incorporated into the

clearer pulp underneath, whisking it vigorously until the mixture

becomes a thick, foamy liquid. Before being served, the drink is

poured into a cup containing cooked corn. The resulting bitter and

spicy drink is consumed fresh, and barely reminds one of the acrid

taste of the beans in their original state. Only the Maya preferred

to eat the slightly sweet and acid milky pulp found around the

beans in the pod. The Aztec’s taste leant more towards powerful,

bitter and strongly spiced fl avours. The elixir was believed to give

its drinkers a foretaste of paradise and to give them a little of the

gods’ wisdom and power. The cacao tree is revered as a sacred

8 – Theobroma cacao L. (Malvaceae family) Or The

Mysteries Of The Cacao Tree By V. Green

PLANT CLASSIFICATION Ph

otos

: © Je

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plant, a link between heaven and earth. Tonacatecuhtli, lord

of food, and Châlchiuhcueyeh (or Chalchiuhtlicue), goddess of

water, are the two protecting gods of the cacao tree. Humans

sacrifi ced to appease these gods are fi lled with “bitter water”

during their last meal.

Although its original history is violent, the cacao tree was also,

simultaneously, rapidly associated to a representation of love and

fertility. For the Aztecs, the cacao tree’s fl owering is the result

of divine intervention from Xochiquetzal or “fl ower-feather”,

goddess of love, fertility and agriculture. It is not diffi cult to

understand why the cacao tree’s fl owering was associated with

divine intervention. Its infl orescences are spectacular: the shrub

produces up to 20,000 fl owers every year, white and pink pastels

of a diameter under one centimetre. Its fl ower cushions bear

fl owers all year long. A cacao tree can live between 60 and 100

years; it produces fruit in all seasons as soon as it reaches three

years old, and becomes adult in 7 to 10 years. It may be this great

fertility ability that explains why “bitter water” played such an

important role in Aztec nuptials. The couple exchanged a sacred

cup fi lled with the divine drink in order to seal their matrimony.

This custom is preserved today with the omnipresence of

chocolate to celebrate Valentine’s Day and Easter, the Christian

celebration of Christ’s resurrection, the date of which coincides

with the ancient pagan fertility rituals’ calendar.

Chocolate Conquers EuropeThe “Xocoatlt” drink could have vanished with the end of the

Aztec empire, if it hadn’t been for the mercantile intelligence

of the Spanish conquistadors. If Christopher Columbus was the

fi rst European to taste the drink during his fourth trip in 1502, in

Guanaja, in the Caribbeans, he was put off by its taste and thought

no more of it. Disembarking in Mexico in 1519, Hernán Cortés

agreed with Columbus as to the drink’s taste, but saw right away

the commercial potential and the economic value of the cacao

tree. At the time, cocoa beans are still used as bargaining chips:

1,000 cacao tree seeds are worth 3 Spanish gold ducats. Cortés

sent “bitter water” samples to Spain, making sure to add that the

recipe should be adapted to the

European taste. Helped with the

monks who accompanied them,

the conquistadors mixed up a

less strong, less spicy version of

the drink, which became trendy n

Spain as early as 1528, particularly

at the court and among the

clergy. Chocolate meets such

a success in monasteries that

in 1569, Pope Pius X has to

promulgate a decree to say that

consuming the chocolate drink

does not interrupt fast, and that the drink can thus be drunk by

clergymen at all times.

By introducing the culture of sugar cane (from China, India and

Persia), brought from the Canary Islands to Santo Domingo in

the Caribbeans during his second trip (1493-1496), Christopher

Columbus unknowingly contributed to the new recipe. The

addition of cane sugar, cinnamon and vanilla by the Oaxaca

Spanish monks reinforces the Spanish’s taste for the new chocolate

drink. The perfumes of vanilla and cinnamon counterbalance the

bitterness of cocoa and the new nectar thus obtained is sold in

small, specialized public shops dubbed “chocolaterias”. Having no

vines to cultivate in the Caribbeans, and hence no wine, the exiled

Spanish found a passion for the cacao tree and begun plantations

in Haiti and in Trinidad. For a century, Spain will have a monopoly

and the exclusivity over the exploitation and consumption of the

drink now called chocolate. At fi rst it was reserved for the elite,

the court and clergy. At the end of the 16th century, chocolate

is given as medicine to the elderly in Spanish hospices. It is

considered to have calming and diuretic properties. Spanish boats

fi lled with cacao beans dock in ports in the Netherlands, but the

Spanish guard their secret recipe and the Netherlanders are given

no clue about the use of the mysterious cargo.

Antonio Carletti, an Italian adventurer, then visits the West Indies

and brings the tropical drink back to Italy in 1606. In Florence

and Venice, the trend takes hold. In France, the chocolate drink

is fi rst experimented with in Bayonne: Spanish Jews create the

fi rst cacao treatment counters at the end of the 16th century.

France, however, truly discovers chocolate when Louis XIII wed

the king of Spain’s daughter. Chocolate is, once again, a luxury

product reserved for the elite. An Austrian scientist brings

chocolate from Italy to Austria in 1640. In 1641, it is introduced

in Germany and, in 1657, the British get their fi rst taste. As early

as 1660, the British begin the cultivation of the cacao tree in their

Jamaican colony. The same year, Louis XIV orders its cultivation

in his West Indies colonies. Strangely, the two countries that are

now best known as great chocolate producers, Belgium and

Switzerland, only discovered it later. Chocolate entered Brussels

around the end of the 17th century, where in 1697, Henri Escher,

burgomaster of Zurich, noticed it and brought it back home to

make it one of Switzerland’s specialties. Finally, in 1828 in the

Netherlands, Coenraad J. Van Houten invents powdered cacao. In

1847, the fi rst black chocolate bar reaches the market, thanks to

the British Joseph Storrs Fry, who also made the fi rst cream-fi lled

black chocolate bar in 1866 (Cadbury still sells it nowadays under

the name Fry’s Chocolate Cream Bar). In 1870, Swiss Jean Tobler,

after eight years of experiments, manages to make the fi rst milk

chocolate bar.

The manufacture of chocolate long remained a complex traditional

craft, with limited production capacity. Everything was done

by hand, from the extraction of beans to the fi nal transformed

cacao paste. It is not a democratic product, and economically and

gastronomically it can only gain the favour of the nobility. It was

only in 1728 that a hydraulic grinding, mixing and compression

machine was used by a British chocolate-maker – production

went from six kilos a day per worker to 76 kilos of cacao paste in

12 hours. The production was further helped along by the steam

engines of the early 19th century, allowing for the construction of

the fi rst international-level chocolate factories in France (Menier in

Noisiel) and Switzerland (Suchard in Neuchâtel). Chocolate came

out of the dark jungles of Mesoamerica to become, through the

centuries, thanks to European innovation and invention, the divine

candy we know today. It is so popular that in 1954, regulations

were put in place to manage the profession and defi ne the basic

composition of chocolate products in

order to fi ght counterfeiting.

Chocolate ChemistryIt is only over the past few years that

we have started to truly understand the

chemical composition of chocolate and

the complex action of its components and

molecules on the human brain. Scientists

explore the chemical mysteries of

chocolate, but their research more often

than not brings them back to ancient

beliefs and popular imagery. This is how,

in 1753, giving the cacao tree the name

Theobroma cacao, Swedish botanist Carl Linnaeus adopted the

ancient beliefs, since the Greek words (“theos” and “brome”)

he chose respectively mean “god” and “ food”, hence “food of

gods”.

Chocolate contains small quantities of anandamide, a chemical

mediator that is naturally present in the brain. In 1964, professor

Raphael Mechoulam (American biochemist born in 1930)

demonstrated that anandamide belonged to the same brain

neurotransmitters as those to which other chemical substances bind,

such as delta-9-tetrahydrocannabinol. You would, however, have to

eat 30 kg of chocolate in one sitting to get a similar effect! Chocolate

also contains ethanolamides such as N-oleoylethanolamine and N-

linoleoylethanolamine, whose action inhibits the metabolism of

anandamide. Ethanolamides also explain that the effect chocolate’s

anandamide has on neurotransmitters is prolonged. In 1996,

scientists have discovered that anandamide plays a pharmacological

role that is important to mood regulation and plays a role in memory,

appetite and pain sensitivity. Anandamide and

its derived ethanolamides are only three of the

800 other molecules identifi ed in chocolate up

to now. Such complexity for a simple chocolate

square!

French doctor, nutritionist and

psychotherapist Gérald Apfeldorfer speaks

of “chocomaniacs” to describe some of his

patients who are hooked on chocolate. That is how he defi nes

persons who seek strong sensorial stimuli, giving them an

irresistible urge to consume large quantities of chocolate. This

almost pathologic appetite may originate in the anti-depressive

virtues of chocolate. Indeed, chocolate contains a small quantity

of serotonin, another substance naturally found in the brain and

which wields great infl uence over mood. Neurophysiologists have

also proven that consuming chocolate provokes the secretion of

cerebral opiate peptides, or small opium molecules. On top of

its gustatory qualities, chocolate thus provides a more “cerebral”

pleasure. Chocolate contains even more brain stimulants: caffeine,

theobromine, salsolinol, phenylethylamine and of course,

anandamide (see above)… Good for your health, chocolate?

You bet! It also gives your body non-negligible amounts of

magnesium, calcium, potassium, copper, iron and antioxidants

that can protect against cancer.

Chocolate is thus a nutritive food product, in the same way

as broccoli and blueberries. Is then becomes easy for any

chocomaniac to justify his or her dependence. Scientists have

also discovered an abundance phenolic compounds in chocolate.

Also known as antioxidants, these compounds prevent oxidation

and hence the accumulation of fat and clogging of arteries. They

clear the blood and can help reduce the risk of heart disease.

Photos: © Cadbury &

NatureM

ania


PLANT CLASSIFICATION

Climate and CO2 Control makes the difference.

I wanted a‘Humungous’

Crop...and to go fi shing

So I did!

Harvest-Master is

running everything,

I’ll go in and

harvest next week.

Ask Us! Available at all good storeswww.harvest-master.comEmail: [email protected]

Offering a heart-shaped chocolate valentine on February 14th

takes a whole new meaning! 18th century courtesans pretended

that chocolate was better than sex. This affi rmation perhaps

stems from another compound, phenylethylamine (PEA), known

as “the chemical compound of love”, a substance that resembles

amphetamine. PEA rates reach their summit in your body during

orgasm. Nevertheless, an average portion of salami contains four

times the PEA levels as a 100 g chocolate bar. These compounds

also increase the activity of neurotransmitters in the part of the

brain associated with attention and wakefulness.

Cacao Tree CultivationAccording to the new phylogenetic classifi cation, the Theobroma

genus belongs to the Malvaceae family, while the traditional

classifi cation put it among the Sterculiaceae. Among the 22

species of the Theobroma genus, only T. Cacao L. is cultivated.

Even though all cultivated cacao trees come from this single

species, two varieties are well defi ned: T. Cacao var. Criollo and

T. Cacao var. Forastero, each with precise quality and fl avour

properties. In addition to the Criollo and Forastero varieties,

botanists have made numerous hybrids. These generally are

more vigorous and yield more than Criollo and the fi nal quality

of the chocolate obtained is superior to that of Forastero. These

hybrids are given the generic name Trinitario. Producing cacao

trees are thus part of one of only three varieties cultivated in the

world: Criollo, Forastero and Trinitario.

The Nacional, however, a Forastero

exclusive to Ecuador, producing a

better chocolate than Criollo, could

end the big three’s reign by joining

them at the top.

The cacao tree is cultivated around the

equator, in a zone spread out on both

sides, between 20° latitude north and

south. Outside this zone, it does not

grow. It is cultivated on the plains, as

the Mayas did. Its cultivation requires

a high, rather constant temperature that

will not vary much from day to day.

A constant average between 24 and 28°C, never below 20°C, will

be ideal for its cultivation. According to Emmanuel Makondambuta,

on the website of one of cacao production’s large players – the

Democratic republic of the Congo (Congo Online) – here are the

cultivation requirements: “Very demanding when it comes to

rain, it requires at least 1,500 mm of rain, favourably spread out.

The equatorial climate suits it, but a short dry spell will improve

fructifi cation. A higher humidity rate is not directly damageable,

Phot

o: ©

200

3 CN

RA


Photos: © 2007 Suchard &

CubeCap

but it can cause the stems to be invaded by moss and lead to an

excessive cryptogamic life. The cacao tree likes moderate shade.

The choice of soil is crucial: it needs to be deep enough and have

a very favourable water content. In Congo, the cacao tree grows

best in red clayish soils.”

As regards the genus’ appearance, Makondambuta adds: “Cacao

trees are small trees, 8 to 10 metres high in nature, but kept at

3 or 4 metres to facilitate cultivation, harvest and pruning. The

taprooting can reach 1.5 m deep; most of the root system,

however, stays in the soil’s fi rst 50 centimetres. The trunk is

usually straight, with a greyish-brown bark. The leaves are simple,

alternate, lanceolate, are 20 to 30 centimetre long and 7 to 12

centimetre wide. They are leathery and shiny, and their bearing

is droopy. Light green to purple-red when they are young, they

become green as they mature. Flowers appear on the trunks and

on the main branches, at the junction of old foliar scars developed

in ‘fl owering cushions’. The fl owers are solitary or grouped in

small clusters. They are small, white-ish or yellow-ish. Flowering

is usually quite abundant, but few fl owers reach maturity (less

than 1%).” The cacao tree is seeded for reproduction. The seeds

expelled from the pod must however be planted quickly, as they

are only viable for one or two weeks. The Forastero variety can be

reproduced by cuttings or grafts, but the vegetative propagation

of the Criollo, according to botanical experience up to date, has

always failed.

Since the cacao tree produces fl owers and fruit all year long,

cultivators organize two harvests, one in the spring and one in

the fall. Unfortunately, the cacao tree is subject to numerous

pathogenic agents, against which it must fi ght or the gardener

must act: Phytophthora (brown pod rot), Crinipellis perniciosa

(witches’ broom disease), Crinipellis roreri or Moniliophthora

roreri (monilia pod rot), Conopomorpha cramerella, Oncobasidium

theobromae, etc. The only remedy against these parasites and

fungal infections is to cut and burn the affected branches.

The cacao tree can be cultivated indoors, as long as you have

a greenhouse where a tropical humid climate is maintained all

year long. This permanence is essential and prevents its use as an

ornamental in the home. You can console yourself,

however, by drinking a hot cup of coco or

by munching on a chocolate bar at any

time of day. Ah, chocomania…

Sources: Chocolate-maker Jeff de Bruges (www.jeff-de-bruges.com), Mica James

(www.waterrockcommunications.com /Heads), Le Devoir, www.congonline.com,

CNRA (Ivory Coast), www.1jardin2plantes.info/fi chesplantes/cacaoyer.php and Dr. Catherine Feldman (“Accro au chocolat?” article, April 2003).

Conversion TableLinear Measure (imperial to metric)1 inch 2.54 centimetres1 foot (=12 inches) 0.3048 metre 1 yard (=3 feet) 0.9144 metre

Linear Measure (metric to imperial)Imperial 1 millimetre 0.0394 inch 1 centimetre (=10 mm) 0.3937 inch 1 metre (=100 cm) 1.0936 yards

Volume (imperial to metric)Metric 1 (imperial) fl . oz. (=1/20 imperial pint) 28.41 ml 1 (US liquid) fl . oz. (=1/16 US pint) 29.57 ml 1 (imperial) pint (=20 fl . imperial oz.) 568.26 ml 1 (US liquid) pint (=16 fl . US oz.) 473.18 ml 1 (imperial) gallon (=4 quarts) 4.546 litres 1 (US liquid) gallon (=4 quarts) 3.785 litres

Volume (metric to imperial)Imperial 1 millilitre 0.002 (imperial) pint, 0.176 pint 1 litre (=1000 ml) 1.76 pints

Mass (imperial to metric)1 ounce (=16 drams) 28.35 grams 1 pound (=16 ounces) 0.45359237 kilogram 1 stone (=14 pounds) 6.35 kilograms

Mass (metric to imperial)Imperial 1 milligram 0.015 grain 1 kilogram (=1000 g) 2.205 pounds

Temperature To convert Fahrenheit to Celsius, subtract 32 degrees and divide by 1.8. To convert Celsius to Fahrenheit, multiply by 1.8 and add 32 degrees.

ERRATA The email address belonging to Roxanne Labelle

([email protected]), who is in charge of our administration,

did not work properly until September 1st. We apologize to any

readers who attempted to reach Roxanne and failed. Everything is

now working perfectly!

Volume 3 – issue 2

* The cover photograph was wrongly attributed to Mamylaine (as

was the reproduction of it found on page 51). It was, rather, by

Hans Stellingwerf.

* Gallery: The CubeCap’s schematic was not the correct one.

Here is the corrected illustration:

* CubeCap ad, page 43: the correct email

address to reach the company

is: [email protected] (not

[email protected], as was

erroneously printed).



For an authorized retailer near you visithydrofarm.com or call 800.634.9990

—Horticultural Products®—


Illustrations: R. Ridou &

Hydro-Tim

esGROWING EXPERIMENT

I will describe here the second part of my

closet growing technique. This technique is

derived from the environment I had to work

with and my own desires for the culture.

This is more an article about “how I do

things” than about “what you should do”.

Nevertheless, some information remains

true in most conditions, and if you don’t

know where to start, your closet might

give you ideas. That’s the goal… See the

fi rst part of this growing lesson in volume

3, issue 2 of the Indoor Gardener Magazine

(September-October 2007).

In the fi rst part, I went through the following

topics: setting up the inside of the closet,

the selection of plants, how to control

the water’s pH, the choice of fertilizers,

the management of electro-conductivity,

watering, ventilation systems and lighting

solutions. Here we will start with seed

germination.

Seed GerminationHere is my method: fi rst, put cotton on a

plate. I drench the cotton with bottled water,

I remove the surplus water, I put seeds on it,

I cover the plate with a plastic fi lm and I put

it on my computer monitor or behind my

refrigerator, near a heat source that is not

too hot. Usually, the seeds germinate after

two or three days. I wait for the white germ

to be completely out before I put the seeds

straight in pots.

My alternative method: I put the seeds

straight in coco in small plastic containers,

at a depth of 0.5 to 1 cm. I water well. All

the seeds that do not germinate in ten

days, I consider dead. The others are clearly

better developed than those germinated on

cotton and transplanted in coco, at equal

duration.

The lamp must then be on at least 18 hours

a day.

The lamp must be high enough (30

centimeters above the plant for a 250 W) not

to burn the plantlets. I put the germinated

seeds in the substrate and I water them

from the top for the fi rst four days, or a

bit longer if required. I make sure they get

enough wind, but not too much: they must

move without collapsing.

Once all the seeds are potted, I wait two days

before progressively lowering the lamp, and

I lower it until the temperature above the

plants reaches no more than 25 or 26°C.

Strong wind and close light make a

good combination to get short dense

plants, strong stems and rapidly growing

branches.

We do not want plants with long useless

stems, but plants with large branches that

can support the weight of fl owering. The

best plants are short, wide, with thick

branches.

THE CLOSETHere is the closet with the approximate

location of the various systems:

• ventilation;

• aeration;

• extraction.

Those three systems are essential to a good

harvest.

On the left, two exhaust fans placed at

different heights in the closet; at the

bottom to the right, a big fan brings in fresh

air through a fi lter made of plastic screens.

Inside the closet, there are also three mobile

fans, which refresh the ambient air, but also

make the plants and the air around them

move. I say they are mobile because I use non-

permanent fi xations, to be able to move them

easily in the closet; I use Nortem jacketed wire,

made for gardening and very practical.

The lamp hangs on a chain from a hook in the

”ceiling” of the closet. Why a chain? Because

it is the easiest way to modify the height

at will, to follow plant growth as closely as

possible.

Latest modifi cations: my closet now reaches

the room’s ceiling and has two distinct

spaces, one up top with strong neon lamps

(2 x 55 W), where I have seeds germinate

and where I start

clones. The lower part

contains the HPS lamp

(the 250 W), now in a

“cool tube”. The closet

now reaches up 250

cm.

To sum up: a 0.5 square meter closet, a 250 W

HPS lamp, and a ventilation system like that of

an aerodynamics lab...

My Growing Method In A Closet, part 2:The Experiment Continues By R. Ridou

Phot

os: F

elco

& G

reen

Har

vest

— Il

lust

ratio

ns: R

. Rid

ouGROWING EXPERIMENT

GrowthAt fi rst, the plants don’t seem to grow very fast. They will quickly

reach their cruise speed, however, and after ten days, they should

normally be in full growth and grow visibly

every day.

Here are the growth stages of an indoor plant:

• The plant produces its fi rst pair of real

leaves, not counting the cotyledons (on the

illustration, the internode

spaces have voluntarily been

exaggerated for visibility).

• After a few days, a fi rst internode appears with

a pair of leaves, and growth continues with a

second internode. To each internode corresponds

a pair of leaves and a pair of branches. After the

second internode, we hence have two pairs of

branches each with their own leaves, and the rest of the upward

growth.

When pruning, always cut above the second internode: four

branches will develop. For clones, prune at the fourth internode, for

example, and you will get eight main branches as well as secondary

ones. Of the eight branches, select four for cloning and prune your

mother plants well, leaving only the branches that

will hold the infl orescences.

When your plants start getting tall and you have

selected the nicest branches, you can move to

fl owering. Even in the fl owering stage, plants keep

growing for about ten days, sometimes more. Think

about it when your plants enter their third week of

growth.

PruningPruning deserves an entire book, with pictures and schematics.

Here is a short technique I have used before, which gave me the

best results from one of my likewise pruned harvests.

• To prune neatly and without mistake, use a good blade. The cut

can be made as early as the tuft appears at the

second internode.

• The four chosen branches must be cared for:

eliminate the starts of any new branches and do

not remove any leaves. The foliage is like a solar

panel for the plant. I remove very few leaves

from the plant during its whole life, except if

some prevent tips from getting light.

• Ventilation is important for this kind of

pruning. To help strengthen the branches’

muscles, you can use jacketed wire to fold the branches and bring

them all back to the same height.

In my closet, I currently have fi ve plants growing in 3-liter pots. One

of the fans is covered with a plastic mesh fi lter. Plants like fans, and

they like getting their leaves in the blades. Put a screen in front of

the blades, or measure carefully the fans’ position in the closet. I

also use plasticized wire on the pots, which is used to hang the fans

inside the closet. The sides are covered with white adhesive plastic

(Vénilia®, d-c fi x®, Kittrich Magic

Cover® or Con-Tact® Paper), and an

emergency blanket covers the fl oor

area. The plants are green, thick, and

they have been trimmed. Their size is

uniform, they are already fl owering

and selection has been done.

ClonesRapid method: cut a small branch on

a growing plant. If possible, make a

clean cut right under an internode.

Clear the bottom of the stem, dip it in Clonex (or any other brand)

rooting gel, and plant it directly in a small plastic container with

hydrated coco. Put clones under neon lights. In ten days, you will

have good clones, and in fi fteen they will start growing.

Clones, cuttings, it’s all the same. There are many techniques to

make clones, but the basic principle remains the same: cutting a

branch off a mother plant and having it root to get a plant that is

genetically identical to the mother plant.

I will develop my cloning technique in my next article, Successful

Cuttings À La Mode... Stay tuned!

FloweringFlowering is reached by reducing the daily

duration of light. In nature, plants grow

throughout the warm months and fl ower

in the fall, when days shorten, to ensure

reproduction occurs before winter. The next

spring, the surviving seeds will germinate,

grow, reproduce and become fl owers that

will bear fruit. I’m taking a short-cut here and neglecting many

things, such as plant sexuality, details about photoperiod, etc.

The lamp must be on twelve hours a day, and nothing must disturb

night-time in the closet. When I say “nothing”, I mean nothing,

absolutely nothing, nada, niet, rien! You must manage to care for

your plants when the light is on, without having to manipulate

them once the light is off.

It is said that the bigger the roots, the bigger the fl owers. I have

tested this theory and believe it to be true. After a time (which varies

for each variety), growth will gently stop, and the infl orescences

should start developing faster and getting bigger.

It is important to stop spraying as soon as the plants enter fl owering.

The duration of fl owering varies according to its origin, variety, and

the conditions in which it grows. Know it is always better to harvest

a little too early than a little too late.

During fl owering, pay attention to the level of humidity in

your closet. If the air is too humid, fungi can develop on the

infl orescences: a catastrophe! You

could be forced to sacrifi ce your harvest

to prevent the infection from spreading

to the entire closet. To combat fungi or

prevent its development, ventilate well,

keep the hygrometry under 60% and

reduce nocturnal temperature drops.

To ConcludeThe success of your enterprise depends

on all the factors involved. You can have

the world’s best fans, a super lamp, nice

saucers, but if you get poor quality seeds, you will get nowhere, no

matter your efforts. The quality of the seeds or clones will have a

big impact on your success. The rest is added on, and each element

is crucial at one time or another. The thing to remember, though,

is that a human is in charge of the cultivation, and that human is

responsible for the plants, and his or her motivation will decide

the success or failure. If caring for plants is a chore for you, don’t

even think about it. To me, it’s a hobby, a pleasure. Others collect

stamps or assemble ship models: I like to grow plants in my closet,

to cross species to obtain new seeds, to try different experiments.

If I can, one day, I would love to try outdoor growing, and to get

my hands on some beautiful exotic perenials.

Photos: B.B., D.R

. & ©

2007 Horti Fair —

Illustration: Hydro-Tim

es


GROWING EXPERIMENT

Phot

os: D

.R.

“The turnip? She has gone to the kitchen. The woman?

It has gone to the opera.”

Mark Twain On German Women and Turnips!

Here is an excerpt of Appendix D from Mark Twain’s

1880 book A Tramp Abroad:

“[In German] every noun has a gender, and

there is no sense or system in the distribution;

so the gender of each must be learned separately

and by heart. There is no other way. To do this

one has to have a memory like a memorandum-book. In German, a

young lady has no sex, while a turnip has. Think what overwrought

reverence that shows for the turnip, and what callous disrespect for

the girl. See how it looks in print – I translate this from a conversation

in one of the best of the German Sunday-school books:

“Gretchen: – Wilhelm, where is the turnip?

Wilhelm: – She has gone to the kitchen.

Gretchen: – Where is the accomplished and beautiful English

maiden?

Wilhelm: – It has gone to the opera.”

To continue with the German genders: a tree is male, its buds are

female, its leaves are neuter; horses are sexless, dogs are male,

cats are female – tomcats included, of course; a person’s mouth,

neck, bosom, elbows, fi ngers, nails, feet, and body are of the

male sex, and his head is male or neuter according to the word

selected to signify it, and not according to the sex of the individual

who wears it – for in Germany all the women either male heads

or sexless ones; a person’s nose, lips, shoulders, breast, hands,

and toes are of the female sex; and his

hair, ears, eyes, chin, legs, knees, heart,

and conscience haven’t any sex at all.

The inventor of the language probably

got what he knew about a conscience

from hearsay.” – Mark Twain (The Awful

German Language). Check out www.

kombu.de/twain-2.htm to read more…

Humor:Of Turnip’s Sex(Submitted by Vlad Balousian – [email protected])

INTERLUDE

Photos: Laurent F. & Philips

TECHNOLOGY

Horticultural Lighting: A Bulb’s Micromole ValueHorticultural Lighting: A Bulb’s Micromole Value By J.-F. Savard

By J.-F. Savard

1 – Th e Micromole ValueVisible light is only a small proportion of the electromagnetic rays perceived by the human eye. Its wavelength varies between 380 and 760 nanometres. It is the light used by plants’ photosynthesis process. Light, as other types of radiation, is composed of individual energetic elements called photons. The shorter the wavelength, the more powerful is the energy emitted by the photons. The micromole value is quantifi ed in light particles (photons) which produce between 400 and 700 nm and are sent back under the form of a light source, called photosynthetic photon fl ux. The number of photons absorbed by the plant determines the photosynthesis rate which in turn determines the plant’s growth rate. That is why the micromole value is also called “growth light”. Generally, a 10% increase in growing light will result in a 10% increase in plant growth.

How does the technology used in Philips’ Agro-Light XT allow for a 10% micromole increase as compared to other models? Simply, this bulb benefi ts from the more intense lighting produced by its high pressure mercury halide diode, the most energy-effi cient solution for additional lighting. Between 25 and 30% of the electric energy input is converted in photosynthetic radiation (400 to 700 nm) with an improved photosynthetic active radiation (PAR) spectrum. A high pressure mercury halide lamp can be used twice as long as a metal halide, and the intensity of its light output will only diminish by 10% over its lifespan (as compared to a MH lamp). It is the most economical energy source for more intense additional lighting.

2 – Philips’ Agro-Lite XTWhy chose Agro-Lite XT bulbs? They stimulate plant growth. They emit 10% more micromoles (compared to Philips models C1000S52). Their

useful life goes beyond 24,000 hours. They maintain their excellent light output. Their fi lament is made of tungsten. They use a High Arc (Xenon) fi lling-pressurization system. They use the ALTO™ technology (see below). They are made using an environmentally-friendly low mercury rate (TCLP standard). They emit 45,000 lumens (145 lumen/watt). The bulb is 381 mm long and it has a Mogul socket. It comes in only one wattage (1,000 W) and has a 260V voltage. Its colours spectrum emits a temperature of 2,100°K. Its colour rendition index is 25, ensuring durability. The bulb’s shape follows the E25 international standard. These bulbs come with a two year warranty.

Horticultural Lighting: Horticultural Lighting: Yield Per BulbYield Per BulbBy J.-F. SavardBy J.-F. Savard

I suggest that you refl ect upon your indoor gardening lighting techniques by following the fi ve points below. In this article, I will only attempt to guide you through an understanding of the factors that have the most impact on your yield, without going in-depth. The issue of yield per lamp or per bulb is only one aspect to consider among many that are just as important in the quest for a large yield. For horticultural lighting, ask yourself the following fi ve questions:

1 – Which type of bulb should I use?There are many types of bulbs on the markets, each meeting a different need. When considering this question, it is important to consider your needs. Do you plan on doing more vegetative growth or fl owering? Does price matter? Does the bulb give off a balanced spectrum? I suggest you use a good Hortilux bulb, replaced every second harvest.

2 – How many hours have I been using this bulb?To maintain peak effi ciency in an indoor garden, it is important not to use the same bulb for more than three harvests. You will notice that the density of infl orescences (fl owering tops) and the total yield weight will decrease exponentially at each harvest, following your bulb’s age. Many professionals replace lower quality bulbs after every harvest and higher quality bulbs every two or three harvests.

3 – Which type of refl ector should I use?The choice of refl ectors is crucial for an abundant yield. Indeed, the refl ector is the piece of equipment that dictates the growing space allocated to each

Horticultural Lighting: A Bulb’s Micromole Value By J.-F. Savard

lamp, and hence the quantity of plants as well as their size. Some refl ectors will give you a total surface of 0.6 by 1.2 metres, while others will offer up to 1.5 by 1.8 metres! Some are coloured or covered with a lower quality material, while others are much more refl ective (my advice? Accent Hydroponics’ Adjust-A-Wings refl ectors).

4 – How far is the bulb from the bottom of my plants?It is most important to understand that the light emitted by the bulbs diminishes in intensity by over 50% per 30 centimetres travelled. If you are the kind of gardener who insists on large plants (0.6 to 1.5 metres), I suggest you clear up the lower part of the plants, which will allow the top part to develop better. If however you are using a sea of green method (see volume 3 – issue 1) with plants that average 30 to 60 centimetres, you will benefi t from 50% more light and you will obtain denser, more numerous fl owers. The goal is to grow a maximum amount of fl owers in a given space, without wasting time on plants that have too many stems or leaves.

5 – What size was the plant when I induced fl owering, and what other stresses or benefi cial controls did I provide the plant?The number of plants you decide to place under the lamps will determine their size at the beginning of the fl owering cycle and what type of manipulation will be required according to the species grown. You must thus know your plant’s specifi c characteristics in order to predict its fl owering behaviour. From then on, you can analyze the type of physical manipulation required to force your plant(s) to fi ll with fl owers the space you have reserved for it (them). Once you understand plant training techniques, you will be able to:• Tie them down;• Bruise and bend them;• Prune the dominant infl orescences.

Until then, I suggest you refl ect upon these issues while observing the behaviour of the plants in your indoor garden and think about any potential improvement you could implement to the garden. In an industry where technology changes and so rapidly improves, it is sometimes important to accept that we have to question our ways to improve our skills (and... our yields!).

The improved colour spectrum of Philips’ horticultural Agro-Lite XT™ makes it an ideal component for supplementary lighting, a must for greenhouse cultivation. It is specially designed to improve plant quality and plant productivity. You can thus benefi t from the technology and reputation of Agro-Lite XT bulbs: their excellent spectrum contributes to improve plant growth. Philips offers a whole range of indoor cultivation bulbs:

• High pressure mercury halide 1,000 W bulb;

• Standard high pressure mercury halide bulb;

• X-TREME improved spectrum horticultural bulb;

• High density output Cermalux bulb.

These high tech bulbs offer many advantages. They increase plant growth (10% more lumens/micromole compared to Philips’ C1000S52

model). They emit more of the energy required for an improvement of photosynthesis. Their initial purchase cost is rather low and the energetic expenses they entail are lower, for a more economical lighting. With these lamps, fewer bulbs are required to obtain the same light intensity. The shadow effect is reduced with the ALTO technology. What’s more, the Agro-Lite contains a very low mercury content, making it an environmentally-friendly lamp. It does not fail during performance. As mentioned above, it has a tungsten fi lament. According to its use duration, it is very reliable. Its technology means fewer lighting drops during use, and hence a more constant growth for plants. Philips offers dimensions that are internationally compatible with socket systems, controlled components, an improved calibration and a great quality. The Agro-Lite, however, should only be used with S52 ballasts.

3 – ALTO™ Technology Respects Environmental Standards Without Sacrifi cing Product PerformancePhilips’ ALTO™ technology gives you superior lighting calibration and is environmentally-friendly. The lamps contain the lowest amount of mercury now allowed. ALTO reduces the quantity of mercury used by maximizing performance and energy. The Agro-Lite bulbs use this technology. Their injection dosage system is made with sealed capsules.

AGRO-LITE XT

Photo: Laurent F. – Illustrations: System D

& Philips

TECHNOLOGY

Photos: PhotoWrap U

K & D

.R.

JUSTICE FOR PLANTS

The facts: Group

M*, nursery gardener

breeder, is the owner

of an original plant variety

certifi cate for a variety of

strawberry-plant named “Mara des

Bois”, a recent French hybrid strawberry

with exceptional deliciousness. It has observed

that Group G produced and commercialized “Mara des Bois”

strawberry plants. It has deposited an infringement-seizure at the

First Instance Court in Paris in October 1999 according to section

L.623-27 of the French law.

Infringement: For the strawberry plants, the right of the breeder

provides exclusivity on all or part of the plant that may be used

as material for the propagation of the variety. Therefore, it has

been investigated whether Group G resold legally bought plants

or if it produced or sold plants issued from illicit propagation. The

evidence obtained by the infringement-seizure showed that the

number of sold plants is much higher than the number of plants

bought from a supplier. Group G has not proven the origin of the

“Mara des Bois” it commercialized. It has not established that they

were plants directly or indirectly bought from Group M, which has,

according to section L 623-4, the exclusive right to produce, sell or

offer for sale all or part of the plant to be used as material for the

propagation of the variety. Group G is therefore a counterfeiter.

Unfair competition: identifi cation of the variety. The strawberry

plants commercialized by Group G were named “Strawberry

plants Mar. SP. Godets” and did not follow the denomination of

the plant variety certifi cate “Mara des Bois”, which it should have

according to section L 623-15. By not identifying the variety sold,

Group G created confusion in the buyers, even professional ones.

Furthermore,

as the sale was

done at a lower price than

Group M’s, the buyers may have thought that a new variety existed,

comparable to the “Mara des Bois”.

Enacting terms: The sale of over 64,000 plants at 0.11€ each is

punished by:

* 10,671.43€ in damages;

* publication of the decision;

* 2,286.74€ based on section 700 NCPC;

* prohibitive measures.

Last appeal: Group G has appealed this decision in the Court of

Appeal in January 2002. Group G has tried to prove that the plants

“Mara des Bois” were in fact obtained in exchange for plants

“Gento gariguette” plants. The testimony was not considered

relevant.

Enacting terms: Last month, the Court

of Appeal has increased the amount

of damages to 45,734.71€. Indeed,

it has considered that the violation of

rights was real, as it is on a high-end

variety, particularly appreciated for its

gastronomic and gustative qualities and

that it was accompanied by established

unfair competition.

France: New Settlement in an Infringement France: New Settlement in an Infringement of a Plant Variety, the Strawberry-Plant of a Plant Variety, the Strawberry-Plant

“Mara des Bois” “Mara des Bois” – Source: Cabinet Chaillot, Paris

* The real names of the companies involved cannot be published, by decision of the Court.

57VOLUME 3 – ISSUE 3 THE INDOOR GARDENER

Phot

os: F

rom

the

prod

ucts

’ man

ufac

ture

rs a

nd/o

r dis

trib

utor

sINDUSTRY NEWS

I – Sunleaves/Worm’s Way/BWGS Stock Up on Sunleaves From fl uorescent and HID lighting to hydroponic accessories,

inline ventilation and more, Sunleaves Garden Products has several

innovative new items for the home gardening hobbyist.

Great for multi-purpose lighting, Comet

300 Compact Fluorescent Fixtures are each

equipped with a 300-watt, non-ballasted

VitaLUME bulb. Replacement 6,400°K daylight

VitaLUMEs and the tempered glass Comet 300

Safety Lens are available separately. Gardeners using the original

Comet can now promote blooming with the internally-ballasted

125-watt VitaLUME featuring a 2,700°K color temperature. And to

wrap up the fl uorescent additions, the dual-tube Nova is packaged

standard with 21” TT55 high-output fl uorescent tubes, each with a

daylight-simulating 6,500°K spectrum to make plants thrive.

To maintain cool roots and happy plants in hydroponics, Sunleaves

has three new AquaChill reservoir chillers to accommodate systems

up to 132, 264 and 317 gallons. Each 120-volt

chiller has push-button temperature regulation,

a titanium thermal converter, cleanable air fi lter

and specialized sockets for external heater

connection. If hot air is the problem in the

grow room, Sunleaves has the solution with

WindTunnel Inline Fans. ETL-Listed four-, six- and

eight-inch fans have permanently sealed and

lubricated ball bearings for zero-resistance blade

rotation and unique plastic casing to minimize noise production.

Growers preferring HID technology will be pleased with the

expansion of the Luma 2.0 line of aluminum core ballasts. The

recently-added 400-watt HPS, 400-watt MH, and 1000-watt MH

ballasts all have 120/240-volt capabilities for greater versatility. Also

for HID systems are the 600-watt OptiLUMEs including the HPS

lamp with internal refl ector for increased lighting effi ciency and

the MH conversion lamp designed to encourage vegetative growth

from a high pressure sodium system. To regulate ballasts and other

devices set for 240-volt operation, the

single-output SunDial4 Digital Multi-

Timer offers a reliable way to keep

appliances running on schedule seven

days a week, 24 hours a day.

With the exception of the Comet 300

Safety Lens, all mentioned products

have warranty coverage for added peace

of mind. Find extended Sunleaves product descriptions and where

to buy by visiting www.sunleaves.com.

– K.B.

II – GreenStar Plant ProductsGreenstar Is A Proud Distributor Of LumatekGreenstar Plant Products (formerly Allie’s Wholesale) is thrilled

to announce the addition of Lumatek Electronic Ballasts for

distribution in Canada. The Lumatek Electronic Ballast is the most

reliable and popular electronic ballast on the market today. The

Lumatek electronic ballast produces up to 30% more lumens than

a standard core and coil (magnetic) ballast, while drawing less

electricity. The Lumatek ballast is completely silent (no more

buzzing), produces less heat than a standard ballast

and because of Lumatek’s soft start technology the

lamps last up to three times as long. Test data has

shown that a Lumatek 600 watt ballast produces

within 5% of the usable light of 1000 watt core and

coil ballasts! Electronic ballasts also do not degrade

like standard ballasts do. Over time, magnetic

ballasts become louder, produce less light, emit

more heat and use more electricity. Electronic ballasts

maintain their effi ciency throughout their lifespan.


Photos: From the products’ m

anufacturers and/or distributorsINDUSTRY NEWSWhy choose an electronic ballast over a core-and-coil (magnetic)

ballast?

• Fast start-up: It reaches full brightness in under one minute;

magnetic ballasts typically take about twenty minutes

• Completely silent: you have to put your ear up to the ballast

before you can detect the slightest sound

• Small compact design: 600 watt ballast weighs less than 4.5

kilos compared to almost 20 kilos for magnetic ballasts.

• Cut-off circuitry: automatic cut-off when a short is detected,

for ultimate safety.

• Longer bulb life: lumen output loss over time is dramatically less

than with magnetic ballasts

• Fully interchangeable: Lumatek ballasts can accomodate both

HPS and MH bulbs

• More lumen output: 20%-30% more lumens output and

added light means more yield!

Why choose the Lumatek Electronic Ballast?

* Lumatek ballasts include a 15 foot RF shielded output cord that

can be extended up to 30 feet. (Allowing positioning of ballasts

in another room or at great distance from your space.). All other

digital ballasts can only have a 10 foot lamp cord and most of

them interfere with radio and satellite TV signals because they

are not shielded.

* There are no fans to break down or make noise; fan-cooled

ballasts have a very high failure rate. Lumatek ballasts are very,

very reliable.

* The ballast can be mounted in areas of high heat.

Up to 140° Fahrenheit.

* Every Lumatek ballast is burned for 12 hours at the factory.

* Excellent fi ve year, full exchange warranty.

* No fans to break down after 1 or 2 years.

* Safer – the Lumatek ballast is completely sealed from the inside

Use the ballast the pros use! Call your Greenstar Sales Representative

to place your order today!

– A.O.

Welcome Harvest Now Available At GreenstarGreenstar Plant Products (formerly Allie’s Wholesale) now offers an

excellent selection of Welcome Harvest fertilizers and supplements.

Welcome Harvest products were created on beautiful Texada

Island in the Sunshine Coast region of British Columbia, Canada.

In the early 1970s, the fi rst wave of “back-to-the-landers” were

leaving their urban upbringings and searching for a less “synthetic”

lifestyle. Welcome Harvest products were born from this ideology

and while they may have been a hard sell in the beginning, people

now understand organic gardening and the value of sustainable

agriculture. Using laboratory testing and horticultural fi eld trials,

Welcome Harvest fertilizers have

proven to be complete, 100%

natural and organic products for

professional or novice growers.

Welcome Harvest fertilizers are

ideal for house plants, hydroponics

and all outdoor gardening use,

including fl owerbeds, gardens,

shrubs, trees, and greenhouse

horticulture. All nutrients in

Welcome Harvest products are specially balanced to promote

biologically active organic matter in the soil, therefore increasing

microbial activity which creates an effective and sustainable

approach to fertilizing. Acid Plant Mix, Alfalfa Meal, Canola

Seed Meal, Fishbone Meal, Fish Meal, Flower Power, Greensand,

Langbeinite, Kelp Meal, Rock Phosphate, Supergrow Mix and

Vegano are now available, so call your Greenstar Sales representative

today for more information and to place your order.

– A.O.

www.getgreenstar.com

III – General HydroponicsGeneral Hydroponics Throws an Unforgettable PartyGH demonstrated how “it’s done” at the recent San Francisco

Maximum Yield show by throwing an unforgettable party at

the legendary Great American Music Hall, with an invitation to

everyone in the hydro industry to come and join the fun.

Three different bands played some truly incredible music, an open

bar was serving top shelf booze, while all ate great food, and some

really cool prizes were given away.

The super-stoked folks at HydroPacifi c of Ukiah, CA won the

Grand Prize of having their most recent invoice for GH products

completely paid by General Hydroponics.

Starting off the evening, Exit

Culture got the groove going

with Andy Graham playing the

drums and didgeridoo while

David Tomkins slapped bass,

making for some funky jams.

Everybody really loved these

guys and was blown away at

how Andy plays the didgeridoo

while drumming.

Then the Nick Gravenites Band

blazed some bomb blues tunes

to keep both the night and those

8484 Florin Road # 110 Sacramento, CA. 95828

Ph. (916) 381-2464Fax: (916) 381-2468

Opening soon1918 16th street

Sacramento, Ca 95814

PLANT’ IT EARTH2279 Market StreetSan Francisco, CA 94114(415) 626-5082www.plantitearth.com

PLANT’ IT EARTH1 Dorman AveSan Francisco, CA 94124(415) 970-2465www.plantitearth.com

BERKELEY INDOOR GARDEN

844 University AveBerkeley, CA 94710

(510) 549-1234Fax: (510) 549-2582

GREENMILE HYDROPONIC GARDEN SUPPLY

1035 South Mt Vernon Ave, Suite GColton, CA 92324Tel: (909) 824-9376

Boulder / Denver

Year-round Year-round Garden Supply

1100 Carver Road, #20Modesto, CA 95350

Tel.: (209) 522-2727Toll free: 1-866-788-0765

5561 South Orange Blossom Trail

Orlando FL. 32802 Toll Free(888) 833-4769

132 Kennedy AvenueCampbell, CA. 95008

http://www.precisionhydroponics.com

Tel: (408) 866-8176Fax: (408) 866-8187

We specialize in CUSTOM DESIGN

116 West Orangeburg AvenueModesto, CA 95350

www.cocas-hydroponics.com

Monday to Friday: 10AM-6PM

Saturday & Sunday: 10AM-5PM

THE HYDROPONIC WORLD OF NORTH AMERICA

United States

Emerald GardenAll you ever wanted and more(866)697-8509

10% off just mention this addRancho Cucamonga, Ca.

10051 North 2nd St.Laurel, Maryland

20723301-490-9236

866-MD-HYDROWWW.mdhydro.com


20723301-490-9236


Our other two locations:

6100 Hanging moss Rd. Suite 500 Orlando FL. 32807

phone # 407-647-4769

1420 E. Altamonte Dr.Altamonte Springs FL. 32701

phone # 407-830-4769

www.sunshinehydro.com

Place your ad hereContact Sales & advertising:

[email protected]

THE GROW ROOM8 Bridge StreetNyack, NY 10960Toll Free:

(800) 449-9630Fax: (845) 348-8811www.thegrowroom.com

38 Front StBallston Spa, NY 12020

Toll free (800) 850-GROW(518) 885-2005

Fax (518) 885-2754www.saratogaorganics.com


INDUSTRY NEWS

1555 Hurffville RdSewell, NJ 08080

Tel.: (856) 227-6300Toll free: 1-888-927-6300

Fax: (856) 227-2930www.tastyharvest.com

bodies moving. Nick is a veteran of many bands throughout the

years and has appeared on some 40 albums as singer, songwriter,

guitarist, and producer. He played with the Paul Butterfi eld Blues

Band and wrote hits for Janis Joplin, Big Brother and the Holding

Company, Michael Bloomfi eld, as well as blues giants Howlin’ Wolf,

Otis Rush, and James Cotton.

Changing pace from blues to hip-hop/jazz, the Shotgun Wedding

Quintet closed the night, with everyone shaking their booties on

the dance fl oor. This group of fi ve powerful musicians created the

sound of a 10-piece band. How often do you get to see a bass

player switch to a trombone?

Good times were certainly had by all, as retailers, distributors and

competitors kept the good vibes going late into this memorable

evening.

General Hydroponics is Proud to Announce the Arrival of FloraNectarMore than just sugar in a bottle, our scientists have formulated

FloraNectar to optimize the greatest transference of sweetness and

aroma into your fruits and fl owers.

FloraNectar contains all natural raw cane sugar, molasses, malt

syrup, select plant based esters, L-amino acids, organic acids,

polyfl avonoids, vitamins and essential minerals.

This unique blend of ingredients helps your plants regulate

enzymes that trigger specifi c reactions involved in maintaining

optimal metabolism. This allows your plants

to achieve a balance between respiration

and photosynthesis in high intensity growing

environments, where the rate of respiration can

sometimes exceed the rate of photosynthesis.

As a result, FloraNectar ensures optimal

metabolic rates during the fl owering and

fruiting phase when nitrogen levels have been

reduced. During the vegetative phase, FloraNectar promotes a

sturdier plant structure with shorter internodes to support heavier

yields.

FloraNectar fulfi lls the additional energy requirements of your

plants throughout all phases of growth and during stressful times

of transition.

www.generalhydroponics.com

IV – HydrofarmNow Available from Hydrofarm:The Fresh Maker – Organic Air Charcoal Fiber Scrubbers and Filters These fi lters and scrubber from Deau Passe Products are the

highest capacity fi lters on the market, ranging from 516 to 6000

CFM. They feature revolutionary odor control, thanks to their triple

layer charcoal fi ber technology. The pleats on these fi lters have


20723301-490-9236



anufacturers and/or distributors

AHL Garden Supply1051 San Mateo Blvd SE

Albuquerque, New Mexico 87108phone 800-753-4617 / fax 505-

255-7417Read what other customers are say-ing about their experience with AHL

and ahlgrows.comat http://ahlgrows.com/kudos.html

e-mail: [email protected]


3839 6th AveTacoma, WA

(253) 761-7478www.indoorgarden.com

714 South CentralKent, WA


23303 Highway 99, Suite AEdmonds, WA


Canada 107 Falcon Drive (Hwy. 97 S) Williams Lake, BC V2G 5G7

Phone: (250) 398-2899 Fax: (250) 398-2896

Toll Free: 1-877-588-5855www.hallsorganics.com

AQUA GRO HYDROPONIC SUPPLIES101-2689 Kyle RdKelowna, BC V1Z 2M9(250) 769-7745Fax: (250) 769-7748

DEN HAAN'S GARDEN WORLD

exit 18 off 101Annapolis Valley, NS(902) 825-4722www.denhaansgardenworld.comwww.denhaansgreenhouses.com

www.AnthonysGarden.com

"Our Business Is Growing"Your Indoor Outdoor

Gardening Specialists

93779 Troy Lane - Coos Bay, OR 97420(541) 266-8822 Fax: (541) 266-9754

394 Route 15/P.O. Box 235Underhill, Vt 05489

Tel.: Toll free 1 (800) 564-9376www.hooked-on-ponics.com

Green Thumb Gardening

Grow Monster Plants

[email protected] sales and advertising, contact:


4-2133 Royal Windsor driveMississauga, Ontario

L5J 1K5(905) 403-GROW (4769)

1-877-263-6287www.secondnaturehydroponics.com

bma404 Maitland Drive #2Belleville, ON K8N 4Z5(613) 967-9888www.bmacanada.com

3132, Isleville St.Halifax, N.S.

902-454-6646B3K 3Y5

4 Ontario locations: Ottawa, Gloucester,

Mississauga, North York

1-800-489-2215www.hydroponix.com

Hydroponics, fertilizers, lightingHome of Optimum Hydroponix®


anufacturers and/or distributors

twice the surface area of the competition. Couple that with the

inverted nose cone design, and these fi lters provide the largest

surface area with the most effective active carbon fi ltration, at the

highest rated CFM, in the smallest space, on the market.

Hydrofarm Has Added a New Sulfur Evaporator to Its Product LineHydrofarm’s new Sulfur Evaporator features a 65W

heating element, adjustable temperature control, double-

wall construction and a sulfur bowl with adjustable

height. This Sulfur Evaporator helps fi ght mildew in the

greenhouse.

Grow Indoors All Year ‘Round With Hydrofarm’s Habitat GreenhousesNow you can grow your crops year ‘round with Hydrofarm’s

exclusive new Habitat Indoor Greenhouses™. Made with

a high quality plastic bonded canvas exterior and available

in fi ve sizes to fi t any growing situation, the Habitat

Indoor Greenhouse offers a perfect tent size for bigger,

taller crops.

All Habitats feature:

- Meter pocket with window for easy monitoring

of crops.

- Multiple air intake and exhaust options.

- Elastic door straps to keep open doors out

of the way.

- Waterproof bottom inner lining that

protects from spills and leaks.

- Sturdy, powder-coated metal frame

and corners.

- Supports AC refl ector mounting

and ducting.

The fi ve models are:

• Habitat 42 – 4’7” X 2’3” X 6’6”;

• Habitat 84 – 8’9” X 4’5” X 7’

Accomodates all brands of reservoirs

and fl ood tables;

• Habitat 33 – 3’5” X 3’5” X 6’6”;

• Habitat 44 – 4’5” X 4’5” X 7’;

• Habitat 42D – 4’7” X 2’3” X 6’6”

Double decker nursery, holds all 2’X4’

Trays.

Hydrofarm is Proud to Announce the Addition of Mondi’s Utility and Sump Pump to Its LineupThe Mondi Utility and Sump Pump is a heavy duty,

oil-less (water cooled) multi-purpose pump suitable

for water control: basement/indoor fl ooding,

plant watering, water recirculation and more.

If features a _ HP motor that can pump up to

1,585 gallons per hour, and is constructed with

an ultra durable casing that stands up to tough

conditions. It comes equipped with two hose

fi ttings; a multi sized hose fi tting for industrial

hoses and one for a garden hose. It’s also

faceted with an extra long 25’ grounded cord.

Hydrofarm Precision Pruners a Cut AboveHydrofarm’s Precision Pruners are the perfect tool for cutting

fl owers effi ciently and safely. They feature:

• Ultra-light, ergonomic design;

• Double density handles;

• Safety lock;

• Comfort grips;

• Anti-slip handle;

• High quality spring;

• Surgical stainless steel

Look for the colorful case on the

retail shelves.

– R.K.

To fi nd a Hydrofarm Authorized Retailer near you visit

www.hydrofarm.com.

Tissue Culture Kit Because of its scientifi c nature, plant reproduction via tissue culture

has been a process previously reserved for professional growers,

but the Super Starts Plant Tissue Culture Kit gives you the tools

and direction needed to successfully create a carbon copy of your

favorite plants right in your own home. This

comprehensive package includes cutting,

measuring, and handling instruments,

growth regulators, propagation containers,

in-depth educational DVD, printed

instructions, and a whole lot more.

Get complete details on the Super

Starts Plant Tissue Culture Kit and

available replacement components

when you visit your favorite year ‘round garden

center.

– K.B.


INDUSTRY NEWS

Change is Good Promote sustainable agriculture by planting heirloom

and traditional vegetable, herb, and fl ower seeds from

Seeds of Change. All seeds are certifi ed 100 percent

organic by the USDA National Organic Program, and the

recyclable plastic seed envelopes are earth friendly as they

require less fossil fuels and energy to manufacture than

traditional paper packets. Each envelope has complete

planting instructions and a handy ziplock seal to protect and store even

the smallest of seeds. Stop by your local garden supply center to select your

Seeds of Change.

– K.B.

Purge Unwanted Pest Infestations Between concentrated Pyreth-It

Formula 2 and PureSpray Green, bugs

don’t stand a chance. Pyreth-It Formula

2 takes out more than 100 different

types of insect pests with the active

ingredient pyrethrin, while OMRI-

Listed PureSpray Green horticultural

oil harnesses the power of petroleum.

Find out more about both broad-spectrum pesticides when you visit a year

‘round garden center in your area.

– K.B.

Mylar Or Black And White MagicIt doesn’t look like much, but this thin plastic, with its

disarming opacity, will fulfi ll your every need. Available

in most hydroponic stores for some times already at

a more than reasonable price, it does wonders. Very

fl exible, easy to install, this protective sheet blocks out

the light. The white side refl ects the light plants require,

while the opaque side lets nothing through. It is sold by foot

or by roll. One foot contains a section of 12 inches by 120

inches, for a little more than a dollar per linear foot. “Black

and White” Mylar is indispensable to indoor gardening.

– C.A.

Self-Adhesive Vinyl: Shiny White or MetallicFor those who cannot use Mylar® (see above), self-adhesive vinyl used in

home design can do the job. Although it is not as trendy as in the 1970s (my

mom was a true fan and used to stick it everywhere, from the kitchen to

the bathroom, including inside cupboards and drawers), it is still easy to fi nd

in decor centres or large surface renovation centres. Of course, don’t pick

the fl ower motif! All brands offered in North America — Magic Cover® and

d-c-fi x® in Canada (www.rona.ca, search for self-adhesive vinyl) or Kittrich

Magic Cover® and Kittrich Con-Tact Paper® in the USA (www.kittrich.com)

– or in Europe – d-c-fi x® (www.dcfi x.de) or Vénilia (www.venilia.fr) – offer,

among many motifs and colours, the simple white self-adhesive vinyl, which

offers a refl ective capacity that is well adapted to indoor gardening. There is

also a complete line of shiny metallic vinyl, from gold to aluminium, that can

be used in horticulture. Be creative!

– R. Ridou

Insecticide Plant Sprayfor Tomatoes & VegetablesIntroducing Doktor Doom’s Spider Mite Knockout Insecticide Plant Spray

for tomatoes & vegetables. This product is a critical component of the new

Doktor Doom’s one two punch for spider mite elimination program.

Doktor Doom Spider Mite Knockout is a formula containing 0.20% pyrethrin

and none of the synergist piperoynl butoxide (PBO). Pyrethrin is approved

for organic gardening (restricted uses; refer to OMRI for more information)

and PBO is not.

At 0.20% concentration, Spider Mite Knockout is 19 times stronger than

any plant insecticide that contain soap and fatty acids and 10 times stronger

than any plant insecticide that contain PBO. Soaps and fatty acids needed to

be applied liberally to plants—to the point of run-off—as they are designed

to drown insects rather than kill them.

These liberal applications cause plant damage (phytotoxicity) as they clog

the stomata, the pores that plants use to create photosynthesis and thus

reduce overall plant size and fruit production. In addition, a lot more product

needs to be used on each application, which means

more time and more money are spent.

Doktor Doom’s Spider Mite Knockout is packaged

in a 16 oz aerosol can that has a special spray valve

to spray in all direction even upside down for hard

to reach areas. Aerosol sprays produce very small

micron droplets which give the entire plant very good

coverage with the least amount of product used per

application. You save time and money. Since it is a

highly concentrated pyrethrin product, it kills spider

mites on contact.

Apply Doktor Doom’s Spider Mite Knockout to the

underside of the foliage and then use Doktor Doom’s

Fogger to fog your garden. Do this three or four

times over a period of 12 days for complete spider

mite eradication. Remember that spider mites lay their

eggs when you try to kill them, so repeat applications

are necessary to win the war against them.

Look for Doktor Doom Products at your favourite

indoor garden center. Visit www.doktordoom.com

for more information and application tips.

– T.I.G.Hor

ticul

tura

l Nov

eltie

s Photos: From the products’ m

anufacturers and/or distributorsSHOPPING

QQ##1 Ga rden d isaster1 Ga rden d isaster HI,

Hi, I have a serious problem with my garden that is haunting me. I

have a hydroponic system with clay pellets. The plants have been

stunted since planted 6 weeks ago, and show no growth at all. I

have fl ushed, leached, reduced light intensity and ppm, maitained

pH. The main stocks of the plants may indicate the problem. They

have a dry white coating. I have sprayed this with bottled water, but

hours later the white always returns. Could this be damping off or

powdery mildew? I thought the later only affected the leaves with

white powder spots. Please help, I’m in trouble.

Thank you, – Mark

AA Hi Mark, It is of course hard for me to know exactly what is wrong without having

a look, but I’ll do my best. I am assuming that they are getting no more

than 18 hours of light and at least 6 hours of darkness per day. Stunted

growth for that long can’t be good. My fi rst question is: are there roots? If

fresh cuttings were placed directly into the clay pellets, they may not have

developed roots, in which case there will be no growth. If there are roots,

are they getting the nutrients they need for growth? Is the water reaching

them or is a drip line blocked? Not enough nutrients is just as bad as too

much: roots need food to grow.

The next thing I would check is the day and night temperature of the

garden. 22-24 degrees Celsius is the ideal temperature for growth. Anything

much higher makes the plants spend all their energy on survival rather

than growth. Hotter air holds more humidity, which adds more problems.

The ideal humidity rate is between 50 and 60%. Temperatures below 15

degrees Celsius or above 32 degrees Celsius will stunt growth. Cool fresh

air must be brought into the garden and hot stale air must be evacuated

constantly. I have tried to tend plants in a garden that would not stay below

28 degree Celsius (too many lights, not enough ventilation) and it was a

constant battle. Proper temperature and humidity are as essential as light

and water.

I can’t say what the white residue is without seeing it. It could be nutrient

build up, which is common with clay pellets. If it is powdery mildew, that

would indicate inadequate ventilation, possibly combined with high humidity

and low night temperatures. Check for roots, check that they are getting the

nutrients they need, keep a regimented light cycle, maintain temperature

and humidity and provide adequate ventilation.

These are the key to a healthy garden, especially when you are acting as

Mother Nature for your indoor garden. Take care and keep growing,

– Herb Gardner

Q Q ##2: Sea of Green met hod quest ion2: Sea of Green met hod quest ionHey, I just recently read your article in The Indoor Gardener and I

have a question – what kind of hydro system can I use? I am planning

on growing a 1.5 m2 area (for the fl owering) under 400 watts and I

am wondering if there are any other articles or something that could

guide me while building my own system from scratch. My idea so far

is just doing an ebb and fl ow system using a tray with clay pellets

and rockwool for the plants. I like the idea of the perpetual harvest

though, but I would need a system where all the medium does not

have to be dumped and cleaned at the same time, right? Any advice

would be helpful.

Thanks, – Scott Thompson

AA Hi Scott,

A bucket in bucket system would be the thing for you. It can be a fl ood and

drain or a drip system that you can take out one bucket at a time.

– Fred

Q Q ##3: F u ngus Cont rol A r t icles 3: F u ngus Cont rol A r t icles a nd A T h r ips-Related Issuea nd A T h r ips-Related Issue

Your Fungus Control Articles (volume 2 – issue 4) have proven much

useful to me – it turns out that my woes may not be fungi-related,

but instead are most likely a thrips-related issue!

Are there any sources you would recommend to go to for information

on effective thrips control or management? I’m also strongly

considering chemical-based methods as well, but I’m unclear as to

the possible legal issues concerning that...

In any case, thanks once again for your help and assistance!

Regards, – Justin Ancheta

AA Hi Justin;I have fl y paper hanging up in my indoor garden, it lets me see any fl ying bug

problems right away. I use End All to control all my bug problems.

The best source that I have found for thrips control is the B.C. government

web site: http://www.agf.gov.bc.ca/cropprot/thrips.pdf

– Fred

Q Q ##4 : Subscr ipt ion4 : Subscr ipt ionHi, I am interested in having your publication delivered to my house.

Where is a subscription link?

Thanks, – Sky Skyler

AA Hi,(Once again), for those who do not wish to cut out the order slip in the

magazine (we understand!), we accept photocopies or adresses on blank

paper (as long as you indicate which issues you want to receive or as of which

issue your subscription should begin). You can also print the subscription

form online at www.tigmag.com/TIG-OrderForm.pdf. Finally, be aware that

the new international rate is $39.99 for six issues a year.

Thank you,

– The Editors

QU ESTIONS & A NSW ERSQU ESTIONS & A NSW ERSTo keep on getting the best service available, send your questions to [email protected]. Our gardeners will answer your questions and comment your remarks.


Q & A

Accelerator

www.canna-hydroponics.ca

CANNABOOST is CANNA’s powerful flowering stimulator. It improves quality and increases yields. CANNABOOST stimulates the development of newly formed flowers which ultimately results in fuller fruits. This also leads to a more homogeneous harvest because the fruits mature evenly.

Something very special about CANNABOOST is that it does not only assure excellent yields but also better taste, a little something extra for the CANNA grower.

More info on CANNABOOST can be found on our website.

FULLER FRUITS, BETTER TASTE

The Indoor Gardener Magazine Volume 3—# 3 (Nov./Dec. 2007)

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Transcript of The Indoor Gardener Magazine Volume 3—# 3 (Nov./Dec. 2007)