The Indoor Gardener Magazine Volume 2—Issue 1 (Reissue)

GOING OUTDOORSChoosing A Site To Transplant Your Plants OutdoorsChoosing A Soil: A Few Types Of Soil

PLANT FOODS – Part 3Choosing A Nutritive Solution:

Using A Complete Line Of Products From The Same Brand Or Combining Many?

INDUSTRYDr. John A.A. Thomson Of The Vitamin Institute Receives Lifetime Achievement Award

PARA LUMEN PARADIGM SHIFT High Intensity Fluorescent Plant Growth Side by side Trial:Satellite Fluorescent Light II vs Metal Halide Light

INDOOR WATER FEATURES

Tips And Tricks To Succeed In Adding A Water Element

To Your Indoor Garden

Volume 2 — Issue 1www.indoorgardenermagazine.comISSN: 1715-0949 – Bimonthly

July / August 2006

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WINSee page 50 for details

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�THE INDOOR GARDENER VOLUME 2 – ISSUE 1

CREDITS

Volume 2 – Issue 1July / August 2006

Published by: Green Publications

Publisher: J.M.

Managing editor: Bruno [email protected]

Contributing editors: Helene Jutras, Jessy Caron, Fred Leduc

Art Director: Anna Kanaras

Editorial coordinator: Bruno Bredoux

Collaborators in this issue:

Aquafood (Uruguay), Aquasculpture (Montreal), Kari Bayne, Bruno Bredoux, S.C., Martin Caldeyro-Stajano Ing. Agr. (M.Sc.), Jessy Caron, Stan Daimon, Gary G., Herb Gardner, Daniel Gingras, Dave Guillemette, Hedi Green, Vertuda Green, Grigg, Paul Henderson, Edward Jackson, Helene Jutras, Bordy Lachance, D. Lesage, R. LaBelle, Fred Leduc, Dave Michal, P. Steph (Summum), Red (Hydro-Sciences), Sols & Paysages, Frank Pohl, William Sutherland, Patrisha Thomson, Travis Thomson, vieux bandit, Charles Winslow.

Sales & advertising: Stan [email protected] [email protected]

Translation/Copy editing:

Helene Jutras

Cover design: Anna Kanaras after a photo taken by Bruno Bredoux in Montreal, Canada.

Illustrations: Anna Kanaras

Administration: R. LaBelle

Information: [email protected]

THE INDOOR GARDENER MAGAZINEPostal Station Saint-MichelP.O. Box 183Montreal, QC, H2A 3L9, CANADATel.: (514) 728-8118 Fax: (514) 728-1840www.indoorgardenermagazine.comISSN: 1715-0949

© 2006, Green Publications, Montreal, Qc, CanadaArticles, iconographic representations and photographs contained in this magazine cannot be reproduced, in whole or in part, without the written consent of the Publisher.

Legal deposit: Second Quarter 2005. National Library of Canada. Bibliothèque nationale du Québec.ISSN: 1715-0949

Photos: From the m

anufacturers

Conversion TableLinear Measure (imperial to metric)1 inch 2.54 centimetres1 foot (=12 inches) 0.3048 metre 1 yard (=3 feet) 0.9144 metre

Linear Measure (metric to imperial)Imperial 1 millimetre 0.0394 inch 1 centimetre (=10 mm) 0.3937 inch 1 metre (=100 cm) 1.0936 yards

Volume (imperial to metric)Metric 1 (imperial) fl. oz. (=1/20 imperial pint) 28.41 ml 1 (US liquid) fl. oz. (=1/16 US pint) 29.57 ml 1 (imperial) pint (=20 fl. imperial oz.) 568.26 ml 1 (US liquid) pint (=16 fl. US oz.) 473.18 ml 1 (imperial) gallon (=4 quarts) 4.546 litres 1 (US liquid) gallon (=4 quarts) 3.785 litres

Volume (metric to imperial)Imperial 1 millilitre 0.002 (imperial) pint, 0.176 pint 1 litre (=1000 ml) 1.76 pints

Mass (imperial to metric)1 ounce (=16 drams) 28.35 grams 1 pound (=16 ounces) 0.45359237 kilogram 1 stone (=14 pounds) 6.35 kilograms

Mass (metric to imperial)Imperial 1 milligram 0.015 grain 1 kilogram (=1000 g) 2.205 pounds

Temperature To convert Fahrenheit to Celsius, subtract 32 degrees and divide by 1.8. To convert Celsius to Fahrenheit, multiply by 1.8 and add 32 degrees.

At page 29, the water-lily photograph is not by Jessy Caron as

indicated, but by an unidentified student of the Pacific Lutheran

University in Tocama, WA.

• In the article on ballasts, the photographs were not captioned

properly. Here are the proper captions: 1) High Yield Lighting’s

Cool-Star, 2) H&M Heat Exchangers Inc. Electronic HID-6000,

3) Life Light Technologies’ electronic high frequency HID ballast,

4) Hydrotek’s Starlite ballasts, 5) Biofloral’s CSA-approved Supernova

ballast, 6) Brite-Lite Econobox, 7) Hydrofarm’s Lumatek & 8) Sumaster’s

convertible ballast.

We apologize to the manufacturers and assure them that this layout

problem has been fixed for the publication of the French version of

issue 5.

The Editors

ERRATA Volume 1 – Issue 6

8 & pages 62-63:

We apologize if some of

the products featured

by our writers in our

“Shopping” section have

offended our readers,

distributors or advertizers.

The products’ use could

be misinterpreted.

The Indoor Gardener

Magazine is not

responsible of the

misinterpretations made

through their use. The

articles appearing in this

magazine are the sole and

exclusive responsibility of

their authors.

Volume 1 – Issue 5

• In the “Plant Foods, Part

1” article, at page 28, the

Arisaema Candidissimum

photograph is not by

Jessy Caron as indicated,

but by the Australian Bulb

Association, and comes

from its image collection.

1

8

5

7

2

3

4

6

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the

cove

r: M

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6 Editorial The Farmer In The Dell By Bruno Bredoux

7 thE EyEs of a rabbit

By Helene Jutras

8 introduction Choosing A Site To Transplant Your Plants Outdoors By Paul Henderson Choosing A Soil: A Few Types Of Soil By Sols et Paysages

14 notEs & nEws Dr. John A.A. Thomson Of The Vitamin Institute Receives Lifetime Achievement Award By Travis and Patrisha Thomson

The Benefits Of Consuming Local By Hedi Green

Preserving Nature In Panama By Helene Jutras

19 tips & tricks: Seed Germination By Bordy Lachance

CRW Mulch By Jessy Caron

22 simplifiEd hydroponics As An Appropriate Technology To Implement Food Security In Urban Agriculture By Martin Caldeyro-Stajano Ing. Agr. (M.Sc.)

28 morphological changE, physiological dEvElopmEnt Perfume, Always By Dave Guillemette

30 indoor watEr fEaturEs By Edward Jackson

32 gallEry With The Collaboration Of Aquasculpture, Montreal

38 plant foods – part 3 Choosing A Nutritive Solution: Using A Complete Line Of Products From The Same Brand Or Combining Many? By B.B. & William S.

44 an Ecological solution against fly problEms By Daniel Gingras

46 para lumEn paradigm shift High Intensity Fluorescent Plant Growth T5 and TT105 By Charles Winslow

48 thE tEst: thE satEllitE fluorEscEnt light ii tEst By Charles Winslow

52 plant physiology More Roots, More Fruits By Red from Hydro-Sciences

54 cooking: Gary’s Grand-Mother’s Sourish Red Cabbage Recipe (Transmitted through oral tradition)

55 thE hydroponic world of north amErica

56 book rEwiEw

Adding Biology In Soil And Hydroponic Systems By Elaine R. Ingham, Ph.D. and Carole Ann Rollins, Ph.D.

58 hEsi products: A Formula Adapted To Growth And Flowering By V.G. and S.C.

60 shopping: Horticultural Novelties A Selection Of Products That Caught Our Attention For This Summer By Kari Bayne, Vertuda Green, S.C., D. Lesage, Helene Jutras, P. Steph & Jessy Caron

65 Q & a One Question… Two Answers! By Fred Leduc & Herb Gardner

TABLE OF CONTENTSPh

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volumE 2 — issuE 1 / July — august 2006

18 38

44 54

“The farmer in the dell

The farmer in the dell

Hi-ho, The derry-o

The farmer in the dell

The farmer takes a wife


Hi-ho, The derry-o


...”

____________________

Traditional – 18th Century

After an entire season of indoor gardening, we might be

tempted to stay under the neon, metal halide lamps, high

pressure sodium lamps and what else... all these new lighting

products offered by the hydroponic industry to shed some

light on our indoor crops are once again to be found in the

pages of this new issue of The Indoor Gardener. But, see

– a ray of sunshine, a long Memorial Day weekend, and I

end up spending my days with my hands in dirt, perfecting

my urban flower beds. There is no better pleasure than

manipulating dirt, putting my hands in the tepidness that

announces the renewal of all things...

Our farmer in the dell will not be alone! In

the woods he will meet

adventurous gardeners,

wanderers looking for wild

species for their small gardens,

looking for strange botanical

adventures. A day of rain, and

here I am in the woods, looking

for species of ferns to plant under

my lilac. A cloudy day, and there

I go to greenhouses and nurseries

to compare perfumes and colours, to associate perennials

and annuals...

A sunny day that predicts many more and you’ll see me

bringing out my rosebay, my geraniums and my begonias

out on the terrace – but in the shade, for a progressive

adaptation to the outside world.

In this issue, The Indoor Gardener takes to the woods. We will

compare the fertility of soils, analyze their content, discuss

their characteristics – we will dare to leave our almost brand

new hydroponic equipment in the basement, even though

last fall it seemed to us the best toy ever, an absolute must-

have... Germination, perfume, lithosol, soil pH, root mass

ready for transplant... those are

some of the words and themes

that you will find throughout

this issue, an issue that begins

a new season, a second year

for the magazine. Yes, dear

readers, The Indoor Gardener

is... coming out!

Bruno Bredoux

The Indoor Gardener

June 2006

EditorialThe Farmer In The Dell


Photos: Modes &

Travaux Archives, Jandigo &

Nan H

ai Plant LtdEDITORIAL

Nephrolepis “Sword Fern”

Phot

os: n

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bbc.

co.u

k

I could not tell you how this so-called piece of information reached his

brain, but when he was about four years old, my stepson would repeat,

meal after meal, that carrots were good for his eyes and would, if he

ate enough of them, give him “night vision”. Now no parent wishes to

take away any piece of information – true or not – that makes a child

eat his vegetables, but his father and I were somewhat puzzled. And

for cause! Our child’s brain had been infected by a powerful myth that

stems... from the British Army!

In August 1940, during the battle of Britain,

fighter pilot John Cunningham became the

first person to shoot down a German plane

with the help of the radar – which was being

used on a widespread scale for the very first

time. Cunningham was the Royal Air Force’s

best pilot during World War II, with a total

of 20 kills. His night vision was legendary,

and he was nicknamed “Cats’ Eyes”.

Since the Germans had not yet developed

radar to the same level as the British (nor

had any other nation until then), they did not understand why they

were losing so many aircrafts and had no clue that it was the use of

radar that permitted the British to locate Luftwaffe bombers in the

dark – and the RAF, obviously, wanted to keep its secret as long as was

possible. So it put a story in the British newspapers, claiming that John

Cunningham and his fellow night pilots owed their exceptional night

vision to an unusually large consumption of, you guessed it, carrots.

Some even claimed that the RAF had developed a carotene-enhanced

carrot for its pilots. Citizens, upon reading these reports, started

cultivating and eating more carrots – they figured it would help them

navigate the streets during the frequent blackouts and attacks.

So do carrots have any effect on vision? You bet. Carrots are rich in

beta-carotene, which the body converts to vitamin A, and vitamin A is

crucial to maintain normal vision. In fact, a severe vitamin A deficiency

can lead to blindness: there are currently 118 countries struggling with

a preventable blindness epidemic, affecting mostly children, that is

due to a vitamin A deficiency (which also leads to skin problems and

stunted growth). UNICEF and the World Health Organization, among

others, are fighting back.

In North America and Europe, however, a healthy diet does not

carry any risk of vitamin A deficiency – our food is vitamin-enriched

to begin with, and we are more, though not very likely to suffer the

consequences of an excess of vitamin A – ranging from birth defects,

to headaches, vomiting, double vision, hair loss, bone abnormalities

and liver damage.

In the meantime, where do I start to debunk this myth for the resident

child here? A long long time ago on a continent not so far away...?

The Eyes Of A RabbitBy Helene Jutras


INTRODUCTION

The key to success in an outdoor plantation

rests mainly on the choice of its location.

When moving from hydroponics to soil

outdoors, one needs to take many factors

into account in order to preserve the

benefits, qualities and characteristics that the

plant has accumulated during its growth in

a hydroponic system. Aside from these, it is

important to ensure that the three elements

essential to a good outdoor crop be available

to the plants and accessible from the chosen

site. Those three essential elements are water,

light, and the type of soil.

Water

Water, of course, in the source of plant life.

It must be near the site. Its composition must

then be tested with a pH meter and a PPM

meter. If the water is too acidic, too alkaline

or too saline, difficulties will quickly arise for

your crop.

Stagnant water, usually found in swamps, is

very often acidic, and should be avoided. The

aquatic life of a lake, river or brook always

indicates its water quality. If there are many

frogs, fish and plants, it is an obvious sign

that the water is good. Trout are sensitive

to pollutants such as metals and chemical

products, so their presence is a good omen.

Trout do not adapt to a pH level that is too

high or too low – the same is true for the

indoor plants we transplant outdoors in

broad daylight.

Light

Light is directly linked to the final yield of an

outdoor crop. More light leads to a higher

yield. Light is the first link in the chain: a

lack of light will prevent nutrient absorption

because the plant will not transpire enough.

The plant will then decrease its CO2 intake

and its growth will be stunted.

If the plant lacks sufficient light, the yield will

likely be disappointing, no matter what other

care you have provided.

Light also gives plants the flowering signal.

It is thus very important that the plant get

as much light as possible. We recommend

a minimum of six daily hours of direct

sunlight.

Red calcic clayey-loamy soil. The silt on the clay offers good potential. In depth (over one meter), we find good water drainage, a high exchange capacity and good water reserves.

Photo: UMR LISAH Montpellier.

Choosing A Site To Transplant Your Plants OutdoorsBy Paul Henderson

Clayish grey soil with pseudogley (characteristic of prolonged water saturation or periodic waterlogging areas), too sandy. The heavy texture is visible on this picture: the dirt seems “cut” by the knife.


CHOOSING A SOIL A Few TypeS OF SOIL

By SOLS eT pAySAGeS, © UMR LISAH MONTpeLLIeR

A) FeRTILe SOIL

Photo: Bruno Bredoux

Naples, Florida, December 2005

�VOLUME 2 – ISSUE 1 THE INDOOR GARDENER

INTRODUCTION

To provide your plants with as much sunlight

as possible, use a minimum treeless surface

that is 15 meters wide and 30 meters long.

Choose a location such as a clearing with

a length-wise east/west orientation and a

width-wise north/south orientation, and

plant on the length, on the north side.

The south slope of a mountain (the adret) is

also an excellent location to look for a well-

positioned clearing. Since the mountain is to

the north, your plants will receive as much

light from the south as possible.

The spacing between the plants is often

neglected, and only a few centimetres are left

between plants. This reduces the production

potential of the lower branches, since plants

will create shade for one another. A good

solution is to plant using a zigzag shape,

leaving one meter between the plants.

The tying technique consists of tying the

plant’s apex to curve the plant in the shape of

a bow. It is a valuable trick, and redistributes

the growth hormones (cytokinin, gibberellin

and auxin) to all the branches. It is an

excellent technique to use to maximize light

penetration while increasing the yield of

lateral branches, that get substantially more

sunlight.

A – Soil: The Most Complex Element

Different types of soil exist: sandy, muddy,

clayish, silty, loamy...

A fistful of dirt is, actually, made up of

different types of matter, such as clay, sand,

organic matter, etc. The soil’s properties

determine how it will interact with the

plant. As with water, it is crucial to know the

composition of soil. For outdoor cultivation,

the best soil has the following properties: it

drains well, is rich in nutrients, and has a pH

that nears neutrality (7).

1 – Light Sandy Soil

Sand drains well... too well, even, and for

this reason it cannot retain moisture. The

nutriments are thus easily washed off with a

heavy rain or simple watering.

This type of soil, however, can easily be

prepared for cultivation. To increase the soil’s

water retention capacity, simply add manure,

humus or peat moss. This will also provide

nitrogen, which is required since sandy

soil usually lacks nitrogen. It is, however,

rich in phosphorous (P), potassium (K) and

magnesium (Mg).

2 – Loamy Soil

20% clay, 40% sand and 40% silt. Loamy

soil offers excellent conditions for plants

transplanted outdoors. The soil is usually

fertile and, because of its composition, it also

drains well while retaining enough moisture.

3 – Silty Soil

Made of minerals and fine organic particles,

silty soil is actually the result of floods: it is

Soil made up of sedimentary rocks at the surface, but rich in stability and nutrients (on the picture, a few carnations flower on a rocky and rugged mountain slope.)

Photo: Robbez-Masson.

Rendosol (is said of a soil that is hyper-calcareous, calcaric, from soft chalk) on green and blue plates of limestone. Note the very visible biological activity around the roots.


Phot

o: B

runo

Bre

doux

Naples, Florida, December 2005

10THE INDOOR GARDENER VOLUME 2 – ISSUE 1

INTRODUCTION

made up of the deposits of the surrounding

seabeds. Good silt drains well and retains

moisture. It is very fertile – it is perhaps

the most fertile type of soil – although it is

sometimes slightly low in nitrogen. It can

very well handle the intensive cultivation of

plants transplanted outdoors.

4 – Muddy Soil

Mud is to be avoided: it retains too much water

and does not drain well. Mud is very fertile,

but often very acidic. Dig a 60-centimetre

hole in the ground. If you find no water, it is

possible to cultivate it if you correct the soil

with perlite or sand to improve drainage.

5 – Clayish Soil

Clay is hard to work with, does not drain

well and retains much water. Like mud,

however, clay is very fertile. A clayish soil,

given an application of perlite or sand, can

become an excellent cultivation site for plants

transplanted outdoors. Red clay is best; blue

or green clay requires more care before the

transplantation.

Most soils in Québec can be suitable to the

cultivation of plants transplanted outdoors

with minimal work. At first glance, the

immediate flora will indicate to you how

fertile the soil is. If the plants are pale,

yellow or stunted, the soil is clearly lacking

nutrients.

Preparing the soil is usually simple, but it

is an important step. To evaluate the soil’s

quality, all you need do is to dig a 60 to 90

centimetres-deep hole and to observe the

dirt’s texture at various depths. Press the soil

in your hand. If it crumbles well, it is sandy

or loamy. If it stays compact or is sticky, it is

clayish or muddy and you will have no choice

but to prepare it.

Fill the hole with water. Wait for it to drain

completely and fill it again to verify the soil’s

drainage capacity. If the water has not drained

24 hours later, you have a severe drainage

problem. You can rectify the problem with

perlite or sand, but it would be wiser to

simply pick another spot.

B – pH

Most soils in Québec are acidic or very

slightly alkaline, with a pH under 7.5, a level

that is still adequate for plants transplanted

outdoors.

The optimal pH is around 6 or 7. A simple

way of testing the soil’s average pH is to take

a soil sample and to put it in tepid water for

half an hour. Then test the mixture’s pH with

pH paper or a pH meter.

Clayey-loamy soil where the deep level is more hydromorphic and therefore limits rooting. It is identifiable by its grey color.


Soil mainly made up of red soil. The slow dissolution of limestone has freed the terra rossa, and a reddish soil has developed, along with a surface decarbonation, an alkaline saturation above 65% and an alteration of primary minerals, resulting in a rocky fersialsol (a soil with the previously listed characteristics). Low fertility potential.


B) LeSS FeRTILe SOIL

Photo: Bruno Bredoux

Questembert, France, July 2005

Phot

os:


INTRODUCTION

1 – Acidic Soil

Conifer needles are very acidic. The soil in

areas where conifers are found is likely to be

relatively acidic.

Soil can be deacidified with lime. Fine lime

is released faster than others, and thus acts

more quickly. To bring an acidic soil’s pH

closer to neutrality, use 500 millilitres of lime

for every 20 litres of soil.

2 – Alkaline Soil

It is rare, but it does exist. An alkaline soil’s

pH is usually under 7.5. To adjust its pH, you

can use gypsum, among others.

C – Holes

When you prepare holes to transplant the

plants into, remember to dig holes that are

wider than deep, in order for surface roots

to have an air supply. Peat moss will fill these

holes wonderfully. Mix pure peat moss with

perlite to improve drainage and with manure

or compost for the nutrients they bring. The

top layer of prepared soil should be at least

15 centimetres deep and 30 centimetres

wide.

D – Watering

You should water your plants one a week

(if there has been no rain, of course). If you

add fertilizers in your waterings, I suggest

you check the weather forecast for the week

beforehand: nothing is more disappointing

than to fertilize before a cloudy week. With

its feet in water and fertilizer, without heat or

sunlight, the plant will not perspire enough

to absorb the water and nutrients. This could

lead to burns or rot due to stagnant water.

Fertilize after

the rain and

before the sun

comes back

– the nutrients

will spread

with more ease

in a moist soil.

To be continued in the next issue…

Lithosol (crude non evolved mineral soil) on fissured limestone. Its fertility is low.


Source: www.sol.ensam.inra.fr – Sols et Paysages © UMR LISAH Montpellier

Common Lithosol

Photo: Barthès

Photos: Bruno Bredoux & A

rrosoirs Brio

Questembert, France, July 2005

Tucson, Arizona, April 2005

Los Angeles, CA, April 2005

Phot

os:

1�THE INDOOR GARDENER VOLUME 2 – ISSUE 1

NOTES & NEWS

Last January, manufacturing biochemist Dr. John A.A.

Thomson received the Lifetime Achievement Award, the

highest honour given by the Lawn and Garden Marketing

and Distribution Association. Dr. Thomson is the first chemist

to receive this award.

Dr. Thomson, 94, is best known as the inventor of

SUPERthrive™ multiple vitamin-hormones, the unique

formula used worldwide as a universal improvement for

over 50 forms of horticulture.

Dr. Thomson first developed

SUPERthrive in early 1940. Since

then, SUPERthrive has been

famous for its unchallenged

monetary reward guarantee

($5,000) of superior efficacy.

Although Dr. Thomson has

created hundreds of products

for the Vitamin Institute, of

which he is founder, president

and owner, only SUPERthrive

survived.

The LGMDA lifetime achievement award citation outlined

biographical notes. It stated:

“Dr. John has been recognized in 28 differently-titled

Who’s Who directories, including 52 lines in Who’s Who in

America, much for the product and the information that he

brought about.

“Dr. John worked his way through college during depression

times by digging ditches, by winning national and other

essay and speaking contests and working as a paymaster

for the U.S. Treasury, paying F.D.R.’s emergency alphabet

agencies people.

“During World War II, all of his SUPERthrive and other

production were either for ‘high priorities’ or ‘high end use.’

He had five US government departments use his SUPERthrive

product to help win World War II.

“He was a senior in the School of Government at the

University of Southern California when he switched to

biochemistry. He has pioneered most of the known uses of

vitamins and hormones for plants and he also had a “first”

in the field of vitamins for humans. He has led the national

laws to protect the availability of each. He has had a number

of civic service and other awards.”

For the curious, here are the main ways in which SUPERthrive

was used by the US government to help to win World War II:

1. The US Army Corps of Engineers were enabled by

SUPERthrive to camouflage large new defence installation

buildings with transplanted large trees, without the trees

wilting and dying. This seemed necessary when enemy

aircraft carriers’ positions were unknown and were

considered a threat.

2. The US Forest Service found that SUPERthrive

produced more latex rubber in larger whole

Guayule rubber plants. Real natural latex rubber

was required for some defence purposes, while

imports were severely restricted by enemy

warships.

3. The US Army Air Corps used SUPERthrive to

rapidly establish well-rooted turf flying fields, to

control dust.

4. The US Navy found that SUPERthrive enabled

successful planting and development of seeds

and plants at naval bases, regardless of saltwater

contamination.

5. SUPERthrive helped the US Department of Agriculture

produce an agriculture project to enable the USA to

become independent of foreign sources of drug and oil-

bearing plants. The USDA accomplished this cooperatively

with the State of California through the California State

Polytechnic University in San Luis Obispo, where 3,000

acres were used in crops.

The only previous lifetime achievement award by the

Association was made to Horace Hagedorn, now

deceased.

This year, however, a total of four pillars of the industry

were honoured. Three wholesale distributors were given

this award:

• Bob J. Bunch, founder and head of BWI Companies, Inc.,

Texarkana, Texas.

• Aaron Lessans, top official of Commerce Corporation,

Inc., Baltimore, Maryland.

• Bernard J. Mollema, former chairman of J. Mollema and

Son, Grand Rapids, Michigan.

Source: Travis Thomson and Patrisha Thomson — The Vitamin

Institute™

Dr. John A.A. Thomson of the Vitamin Institute and three other pillars of the industry received Lifetime Achievement Awards from the Lawn and Garden Marketing and Distribution Association (LGMDA)

Presenter and Conference Marketing Chairman Jim Kaminskas of the Espoma Co., Millville, N.J. with John A.A. Thomson, Ph.D.,

D.A. President-Founder-Owner, Vitamin Institute Manufacturing biochemist.

Photos: LGM

DA

(by permission)

Phot

os:


NOTES & NEWS

According to the U.S. environmental research group World

Watch Institute, imported food travels between 2,500 and

4,000 kilometres from farm to plate. Four times the energy

is used and four times the greenhouse gas emissions are

generated compared to local food. Approximately 8 tonnes

of CO2 emissions are created each year in the production,

packaging, transportation and distribution of imported food

for a family of four. The average meal uses up to 17 times

more petroleum products and increases carbon dioxide

emissions by the same amount compared to an entirely

local meal. Buying local decreases transportation, which

means less fossil fuel is being burned, thus the environment

is being protected from ozone depleting substances in

harmful exhaust fumes such as nitrous oxide.

Food grown locally is fresher, tastier and more nutritious

than produce that travels for a week and then sits on

supermarket shelves for another week. Fruits and vegetables

lose nutrients quickly. Food that is canned just after harvest

is actually more nutritious than produce that has gone

through the import cycle.

Listening to our body’s needs

should also encourage us

to buy locally. Our body

energy is maximized if we

eat according to seasonal

harvests. A large percentage

of the food we import is

grown in climates more

suitable to its nutrition. In

warmer climates, the cooling

effects of raw foods and

tropical fruits are essential.

Foods that are higher in sugar content are more popular

than whole grains and animal protein. In harsher climates,

we have a need for foods that provide warmth and energy

such as salt, grains, vegetable stews and for some people,

animal protein. These foods provide warmth and energy.

We should eat in harmony with our weather. It is more

difficult to adapt to colder temperatures if our blood is

filled with sugar, making it more summery. It is harder to

tolerate the cold without alkaline substances in the blood…

Imported foods should be enjoyed, on occasion, for variety

and specialty dishes, not for everyday fare.

Vancouver writers Alisa Smith and J.B. MacKinnon decided

to challenge themselves for one year and eat only food

produced within a 160-kilometre radius of their home. They

were concerned about the burning of fossil fuels and the

toxic fumes being released from the trucks which transport

fruits and vegetables. Their experiment was tricky and not

that easy. Deciding that every single ingredient had to come

from the earth in their

160 kilometre circle,

they were unable to

find any locally grown

grains, pasta, bread

or rice. The only

starch they could find

was potatoes. After a

few weeks, they had

to loosen their rules to include locally milled flour.

Preparing for winter, Smith and MacKinnon froze and

canned vegetables in the fall. Faced with making strawberry

jam during strawberry season, they were unable to use sugar

because it is shipped from thousands of kilometres away.

Using local honey instead, they found it quite expensive

because of the quantities needed to preserve the summer

fruit…

North American environmentalists are encouraging people

to make a conscious effort to eat locally. As well as protecting

the environment, you are supporting the local economy.

Purchasing products from local farmers helps keep them in

business and guarantees that you are receiving the freshest

possible produce. Also, local farmers don’t have access to

genetically modified seeds, so you can be assured that fruits

and vegetables are grown the old fashioned way. By helping

the farms stay financially active, the beauty of the landscape

is preserved, as well. The crop fields, meadows, woods and

ponds are also home to many species of wildlife. Thriving in

a constant state of life, this ecosystem also captures carbon

emissions and helps offset 12 to 14% of the carbon emitted

by vehicles and industry.

By supporting local farmers today, you can help ensure

that there will be a farming community tomorrow and that

future generations will have access to nutritious fresh fruits

and vegetables.

Sources: Monique Beaudin, The Montreal Gazette, Tuesday,

November 22, 2005, CanWestMediaWorks Publications Inc., &,

www.macrobiotics.co.uk/mbprinciples.htm, www.greensgrow.

org, www.thetyee.ca, thetyee.ca/Life/2005/06/28/

HundredMileDiet.

THE BENEFITS OF CONSUMING LOCAL By HE d I Gr E E N

Photos: La Chaîne de l’Espoir & H

edimag

Phot

os:

D.R

. & G

L V

ideo

I love rotten fruit!Is it provocation? An actual taste for rot? Alimentary

decadence? It is hard to pass judgment on the love French

author Amélie Nothomb devotes to eating rotten fruit.

It started off as a simple declaration made to a women’s

magazine, but it has become the most note-worthy trait

of Nothomb’s persona – she is still explaining herself in

television studios, which leads us to believe she may have

done better to think before she spoke. Again recently on

the set of the show “On a tout essayé” (“We’ve tried

everything” – and it’s not true: no one on the

set but Amélie agreed to eat the rotting fruit!),

she devoured, in front of the camera, peaches

that were more than rotten, overripe pears and

strawberries that had long ago see better days.

It’s a question of taste, she says. These seemingly disgusting

fruit have flavours unknown to the common man. Perhaps

she is right in the end – supermarket stands are filled with

fruits whose ripening process has been stalled by any possible

means just so they look shiny under supermarket neon

lamps... Shiny, yes, but often tasteless and

bland! In any case, it seems that rotten

fruit is good for the skin (see the picture)!

– B.B.

In Seneca Falls, Renewal Happens With Methane GasIt was recently announced that a 200-acres industrial

complex will be built along route 414 in Seneca Falls, New

York. The complex’s power supply will be done exclusively

with methane gas, a by-product of the area’s numerous

garbage decomposition sites and public dumps. Using this

by-product of decomposition is a nice way of saving energy,

but it is also an ecological stand. Seneca county officials have

said they are thrilled with the project. The five production

sites will produce enough power to also supply 20,000 to

25,000 homes and will create jobs.

The first tenant of the new industrial complex will be

none other than H2Gro, a hydroponic tomato production

company that was based, until now,

in Lewinston, in Niagara County.

During the ground breaking ceremony

held on May 5th, Peter Zeliff, CEO of

H2Gro, said that the company would

move to its new location at the very beginning of 2007. Its

hydroponic greenhouse will be powered only by methane

and will allow for the creation of nearly 100 jobs in the

Seneca Falls community. The energetic exploitation and the

maintenance of the main generator will create 340 more

jobs in this sector of “clean” energy.

– B.B. (following a report in The Finger Lakes Times)


NOTES & NEWS

Deforestation, erosion, desertification – Panama is looking

for and finding solutions. With the help of a few friends, the

country is attempting to save its fragile and rich ecosystems.

Its rain forests harbour a diversity that is second only to that

of the Amazon.

Panama has only just begun to focus on attracting eco-

tourists since the 1999 transfer of control over the Panama

Canal from the United States. Panama’s nature, it is said,

is comparable to that of neighbouring Costa Rica, but it is

less crowded with tourists. In and near the capital, Panama

City, many nature reserves and attractions allow one to

discover the natural flora of the region: visitors can choose

between the large Parque Natural Metropolitano, the

Centro de Exhibiciones Marinas, located on the causeway

or the Parque Nacional Soberania, on the western side of

the Canal, where birdwatchers gather (Panama sustains

over 80% of North American shore birds that winter in its

mangrove swamps). One advantage of having the Canal is

that it requires nature along its sides as a water catchment

system (although erosion and lack of water are important

and rising environmental issues in Panama as everywhere

else).

In 2007, a new museum should add to Panama City’s natural

attractions. The Museum of Biodiversity, also known as the

Bridge of Life Building, has been designed by none other

than Frank Gehry. Located in the Amador area of Panama

City, at the tip of a causeway on the

Pacific entrance to the Panama Canal,

the museum will be the first and only

dedicated to presenting the diversity and

complexity of life on Earth. The project

is being developed in cooperation

with the Smithsonian Institute, the

Universidad of Panama, and the ARI

(Interoceanic Region Authority).

The museum will be hard to miss – its

pavilions will have bright colourful roofs,

visible from afar, to create “a jagged and

twisting silhouette that will be a clear

representation of the forces of nature

that shape our world.”

The museum will sit within a botanical

park – one designed by Edwina von

Gal, a self-taught gardener/landscape designer who

boasts clients such as Calvin Klein and who fell in love with

Panama’s natural beauty. In the public plaza at the end of

the planned frog pond reflecting pool, Ms. von Gal sees a

corutu, a great canopy tree that will provide shade. “We’re

not trying to put in a rain forest”, she told the New York

Times, “The whole idea of the park is that it’s a bridge to

the real thing. Out here, people will be able to touch and

smell plants most suitable to urban gardens.” Most of the

plants will be native.

In fact, Ms. von Gal and other well-to-

do Americans have started buying land

– and building eco-friendly homes away

from home using local materials and

labor – in Panama, planting native trees

on eroded hill sides and bringing nature

back to what it once was. They work

with the locals, proving to them that some

cash crops – vanilla, for example – can

grow in its native land again, but only in

forested areas! The group is “pooling their funds to buy up

old cattle ranches before developers buy the land for high-

rise resorts, casinos and golf courses.” It very well may be

that we will look at Panama, years from now, as an example

of human intervention to save what was almost destroyed.

– H.J. Sources: New York Times, wikipedia.com

Panama Baro Colorado Islands (Photo: Panama forest flora and fauna association)

Rubén Blades, Panama’s Tourism Minister (Photo: EPASA Archives)

Preserving nature

in Panama

Photo: Crea

Phot

os: S

yste

m D

(La

uren

t), S

.D. S

ong

/ Uni

vers

ity

Of H

ong

Kong

1�VOLUME 2 – ISSUE 1 THE INDOOR GARDENER

TIPS & TRICKS

Germination is a period where life starts aGain, a crucial step in the development of your indoor and outdoor plants – that is why it is so important to provide the seeds with the proper nutritive elements so they can successfully Germinate.

The TechniqueFirst, you must choose a good, well-drained soil with a

neutral pH (7.0). I suggest you use a commercial soil mix

such as Pro-Mix – it is sterilized and has a balanced pH. Mix

three parts of Pro-Mix‚ to one part worm casting compost

and one part perlite or vermiculite. Pour the soil into ten-

centimetre diameter pots and mix in five millilitres of

Mycorise‚ an agent that contains an endomycorrhizal fungi

which lives in total symbiosis with plant roots.

You must then make a nutritive solution with which to wet

and enrich the soil. If your water is strongly chlorinated, I

suggest you fill your water containers and let them rest for a

24-hour period, in order to allow the chlorine to evaporate.

Natural water springs are ideal. Mix five millilitres of liquid

marine algae per litre of water.

I always advise people to “start” the plant seeds three days

before the full moon: the moon’s attractive effect greatly

improves the success rate, and it accelerates the germination

period. It takes most seeds between two and seven days to

crack their shell. The roots grow in the 14 days following

germination.

To start the germination cycle, pour some nutritive solution

into a pot and soak the seeds in that water for 12 hours. At

the same time, wet your clay pots and place them under a

lamp in what will become their new environment. The pots

will thus be ready to welcome the plantlets.

Place the seeds on this dirt. Carefully observe the seed’s

shape. It must not be pushed in too deep – only enough for

it to be covered, pointing up (its shape resembles a falling

drop of water). When the seeds

crack, their natural tendency is

to shoot a first root down to

send the seed’s head upwards

(see illustration).

LightingModerate lighting is ideal for

germination. Full spectrum

fluorescent tubes are excellent.

A window sill can also do,

but you must ensure that the

temperature remains between

20 and 25°C and that the

surface is not cold.

To increase your chances

of success, use small plastic

domes to create a greenhouse

effect – this will increase the

humidity rate to 60 to 80%.

Wipe the excess condensation

once a day to allow as much light in as possible. If you

have opted for fluorescent lighting, the tubes can safely

be put right in contact with

the domes. If you are using

a high intensity discharge

lamp, however, place it 1.2

meters above the plantlets.

If you have no domes, make

sure the top layer of soil

stays moist (a light daily

spraying should suffice). As

soon as the shoots are above

the soil, remove the domes

to re-establish a normal

humidity level (40 to 50%).

If you want to plant your seeds outdoors, start by well

turning the soil, and plant them the same way. You should,

however, plant more seeds than you want plants, because

some of the seeds will be eaten by birds and small animals.

The early June full moon period is an ideal starting point for

this endeavour.

Cuttings and plantlets well started indoors will give you

bigger yields.

Happy germination!

seed germination By Bordy Lachance


TIPS & TRICKS

Horticulturists and plant lovers know that putting mulch

on the ground offers many advantages. Much retains the

soil’s water, which means fewer waterings. Mulch improves

the structure of soil and protects it against temperature

variations. Mulch prevents weeds and feeds the soil by

decomposing. Of all available mulches, however, which one

should you pick?

A few decades ago, researchers at Université Laval have

demonstrated that ramial chipped wood (RCW) is the ideal

amendment. Numerous experiments done in forested and

agricultural areas and in landscaping have allowed the experts

to see a regeneration

of the soil, the return of

its natural fertility and

melanization (the soil

becomes darker) caused

by the transformation

of lignin into humus.

This lignin creates high

quality humus. Humus is

essential: it improves the

physical, chemical and

biological properties of

soil. It stores the minerals

naturally found in the soil,

and those minerals can

then be made available

to the plants via micro-

organisms.

CRW is made up of hardwood tree branches of less than

seven centimetres in diameter, made into chips. Branches of

a larger diameter and trunks should not be used, because

they can lead to a nitrogen deficiency in the soil. They also

contain very few nutrients and the tree-protection products

contained in the trunk could be harmful to the soil. If you

want to use conifer branches, they cannot form over 20%

of the whole. That is because conifers produce substances

(tannins and phenols) that can hinder the growth of

herbaceous plants. The lignin of conifers is also different

from that of hardwoods, and it produces a humus that is

specifically intended for organisms that prefer an acidic

environment.

According to researchers, CRW is the mulch that produces

the most stable humus because small diameter branches

are very rich in young lignin and in proteins. The smaller

the branches, the highest their nutriment concentration is.

Branches also contain other elements, such as cellulose,

sugars, starches, hemicellulose, amino acids, enzymes and

mineral salts.

Some fungi (basidiomycetes or white mould) transform

lignin into humus; they are the only living organisms that

can perform such a transformation. To help the organisms

perform their task, the CRW mulch must be incorporated

into the soil – because fungi need moisture – but not too

deeply – because they also need air. Once that is done,

other useful organisms, such as springtails and mites, will be

attracted by the fungi, which they eat. Springtails and mites

will in turn allow some

bacteria that feed on

their waste to multiply.

These bacteria then

feed protozoa, the earth

worm’s favourite dish.

Earth worms, it has been

demonstrated, are much

more attracted to CRW

than they are to compost.

The presence of all these

micro-organisms creates

diversity and makes

the soil a stable habitat

where each organism

and each plant benefits.

The spectacular results observed on soil during experiments

demonstrate the many advantages of using CRW:

• All soil structures have been remarkably improved.

• The humus formed retains 15 times its weight in water; it

thus allows for better draught resistance.

• Parasites are less virulent because of the increased

biodiversity.

• Product quality has improved: more dry matter and

improved flavour.

• Yield increases have been noted, notably the second year

after the CRW application (up to 300% for strawberries).

• In strawberries, an exceptional root development

was observed, as well as the natural appearance of

mycorhiza with beneficial effects on the available level of

phosphorous.

• The pH of acidic soils increased.

Photo: Jessy Caron

CRW Mulch By Jessy Caron

Phot

o: Je

ssy

Caro

n

In landscaping, CRW mulch can be beneficial for all shrub,

perennial or annual plant beds, but it is mostly used around

trees and shrubs and on garden aisles. A 10-centimetre

layer can be put down around trees and shrubs and a five

centimetre layer around herbaceous plants, depending of

the plant’s development. You should nonetheless avoid

placing CRW directly on trunks to avoid trunk mould. You

will then only need to add some CRW each year, because

it decomposes slowly. Ideally, the chips should not be too

coarse (two to four centimetres in diameter) to increase the

contact surfaces for soil micro-organisms, which ensures

that the material is well digested. The CRW must not be

too finely shredded, however, to prevent it from forming

a water-proof layer. To preserve adequate aeration, the

thicker the layer, the coarser the chips should be.

CRW is obviously one of the best mulches and amendments

available, given its high nutrient content and the presence

of lignin which forms a very stable humus, which in turn is

beneficial to the organisms living in the soil and hence for

the plants.

The only problem with CRW is its availability. The

only companies that sell it are pruning companies and

municipalities, and we cannot be sure that all the branches

used had a diameter of less than seven centimetres. Another

way to get CRW would be to rent or buy a wood chipper,

but in this case you must make sure that the investment

can be made profitable, i.e., the quantity of branches to be

chipped must be worth the effort.

Simplified Hydroponics as an Appropriate Technology to Implement Food Security in Urban AgricultureBy Martin Caldeyro-Stajano Ing. Agr. (M.Sc.)


INDUSTRYPhoto: A

quafood

1) Urban agricUltUre Planting in cities is becoming increasingly popular as a result

of demographic growth and because it is a source of food

and of jobs, providing city dwellers with an income. This

situation, however, gives rise to much concern. Despite the

fact that urban agriculture is a suitable solution for dwellers

of urban areas and the urban periphery, these people live

in places where facilities, community infrastructure and

other services that ensure a proper quality of life are usually

absent.

Cultivation techniques applied in these cases include the

growing of fruits and

vegetables based on

the traditional model

of soil agriculture

(organic), where it is

possible to make the

most of household

waste as well as

of the manure of

domestically raised

animals. This apparent

advantage of organic

crops, stemming from

the use of household

waste and the resulting

decrease in its volume,

is nevertheless one

of the main health

hazards for the people who consume this produce, and

constitutes the greatest double-edged sword of the model.

Since urban soil and the inputs applied for fertilization

purposes are the main source of disease, this gives rise to a

major flaw in the food safety of the end product.

Organic soil agriculture, when used in a rural environment,

presents significant advantages and a relatively low

pollution risk when planting takes place in conformity with

certain standards. However, if it is transferred to an urban

environment, the situation changes considerably due to the

conditions under which the crops are produced.

Conventional crops sown on soil require the proper

environment, so one must take into account the quality

of the soil and water on which

they rely, as plants absorb any

existing pollution. The main soil

and water disorders observed in

most cities are the following:

SoilS

The soils of urban areas and

of the urban periphery are

contaminated to a large

degree, especially in those areas

where the population is socio-

economically disadvantaged.

Once the soil has been

contaminated, it shall remain

polluted for many years.

Wastewaters from cesspools,

which overflow or have

overflowed in the past, leave their microbial load in the soil

and can even contaminate the crops grown there.

Figure 1. View of a settlement in the urban periphery in Latin America, adjacent to contaminated water sources.

Soils containing heavy metals (lead, chromium, cadmium,

etc.) are most common in the presence of polluting

industries that use these metals. In the case of lead, it can

also be the residue of car batteries laid to waste on the spot

for several years. There are other contaminants which are

easily overlooked, such as emissions from motor vehicles

burning gasoline with lead and flaking paint from the walls

of houses, which peels off and falls to the ground where

it stays for many years. That is why some environmental

scientists advise against planting adjacent to homes,

highways and roads, since the plants absorb these toxic

elements and transfer them to the crops that the family

consumes, with serious health consequences, especially in

the case of children (Raloff, Janet 2003).

Landfill soils, where garbage or materials of unknown history

have been dumped, on which people later settle, with their

dwellings and crops, remain unsafe if untreated.

Water

This is another constraint of the urban milieu, since the areas

where these low-income dwellers are located do not have

easy access to drinking water and sewerage (Figure 1). The

ground and surface water sources there may be considered

low quality because of the high contamination levels of the

following:

• Bacteria, protozoa and viruses, because the water

sources are near cesspools or sanitary landfills. They are

increasingly present when the absence of a sewerage

network is coupled with high population density.

• Excess of nitrates: as a result of the over-fertilization of

farmland which reaches the urban environment through

the water tables and impinges on the ground water.

Additionally, there are fertilizers used in residential

gardens, etc.

• Pesticides: as a result of their use in farming.

• Toxic chemicals: as a result of industrial residue (fats,

soaps, detergents, solvents, tanning chemicals, heavy

metals, etc.) and farming wastes (pesticides).

Ideally, programs implemented by international and

governmental agencies and non-governmental organizations

should take into account Good Agricultural Practices (GAP)

when contemplating planting in soil in cities. Several tests

should be carried out on the soil and water sources, and

appropriate pollution management practices should be

applied.


INDUSTRYPhoto: A

quafood

Manure and solid organic wastes are harmless and they

are an effective fertilizer, but only when properly treated

(Guide To Reduce Microbial Hazard In Food To A Minimum,

In The Case Of Fresh Fruit And Vegetables, Food and Drug

Administration, USA, 1998). Such programs should also

include other measures, such as educating the population

on how to achieve a safe end product. Nevertheless, as a

result of the dizzying development pace of cities, soil and

especially water are subject to environmental factors which

are extremely dynamic – they facilitate pollution, dispersion

and, over time, compromise the continuity of efforts geared

to controlling factors that guarantee food safety.

2) Food SecUrityAccording to the “Rome Declaration on World Food Security

and World Food Summit Plan of Action” (Rome, FAO

1996), food security “exists when all people, at all times,

have physical and affordable access to sufficient, safe and

nutritious food to meet their dietary needs enabling them

to lead a healthy and active life.”

Even when a country has sufficient food at the national

level, foodstuffs must be equitably distributed, they must

be of good nutritional quality and people must be able to

afford them. Foodstuffs must also be safe. According to the

Pan American Health Organization (PAHO), safe foodstuffs

are those which are fit for human consumption, nutritional

and pleasant and that do not harm consumers.

At the World Food Summit held in Rome (in 1996),

governments promised to strive to cut by half the number of

people who did not have access to food security conditions

by 2015. Before 1996, there were 817 million people in

developing countries. In the beginning, national policies

were successful, and the malnourished

population initially dropped to 778 million

in 1997 but it then rose to 798 million

in 1999-2001 (FAO – The State of Food

Insecurity in the World, SOFI 2003).

This stated goal will be very difficult to

achieve unless food security in cities is given

the priority it deserves. The perception in

the early 21st century is that urbanization

will continue and increase.

According to the UN Food and Agriculture

Organization (FAO), on average 50%

of the world’s population lives in cities,

ranging from 22% in China to 72% in

Latin America.

2.1) Food SecUrity and itS relationShip With Water QUality, diSeaSe and MalnUtrition

Apart from the quality of water for irrigation purposes, in

the context of water quality, disease and malnutrition, it

is important to consider the water used to wash fruit and

vegetables for personal consumption. The poor quality of

water used by urban populations without basic utilities

in place contributes to the likelihood of a high degree of

contamination being present in the produce grown and

washed under such conditions, i.e. it is not safe for human

consumption (Guide to Reduce Microbial Hazard in Food to

A Minimum, in the Case of Fresh Fruit And Vegetables. Food

and Drug Administration, USA, 1998).

In a given social and environmental context, urban pollution,

coupled with the scarce availability of safe foodstuffs, is

directly linked to the existence of the so-called water-borne

gastro-intestinal diseases (hepatitis, diarrheas, parasitic

mites and pinworms, leptospirosis), which are a recurrent

problem in populations where basic needs are unfulfilled,

especially among children. “Diarrhea, for instance, is one of

the five leading causes of death worldwide in children under

5 years of age” (Stineke Oenema, FAO/RLC 2001).

Gastro-intestinal diseases reduce the nutrient absorption

efficiency in humans, causing malnutrition, which in

turn minimizes a person’s immune defences, facilitating

re-infection or diminishing personal development.

3) SiMpliFied hydroponicS (Sh) Simplified Hydroponics, which was developed in Latin

America, is a suitable technological package that can be

easily adapted to the conditions of urban areas and the

urban periphery, in the following ways.

Firstly, the production system is isolated

from the soil. Planting takes place at a

convenient height, where soil pollution

has no impact. It allows for vegetables to

be produced “without soil” and in small

physical spaces. Plants are grown in

water containers or in low-cost natural

substrates (sand, rice husk, pumice, etc.).

With this system, it is possible to grow

a vast range of vegetables, for example

lettuce, tomatoes, carrots, celery,

watercress (Figure 2), eggplants, beans,

parsley, wild radish, leek, strawberries,

melons, aromatic and medicinal plants,

etc.Figure 2. Safe watercress and lettuce

Phot

o: A

quaf

ood

Use of limited space. One of the main advantages of Simplified

Hydroponics is the possibility of using urban spaces which

until now had not been considered adequate for growing

food (patios, small gardens, party walls, balconies, rooftops)

(Figure 4).

Use of hanging pipes – as an option, fruits and vegetables

can be grown in these, thus optimizing space, passing from

using m2 to m3 (Figure 3).

High efficiency in the use

of irrigation water, where

water is recycled and does

not pollute the environment

(Figure 3).

Pest, disease and weed control.

Simplified Hydroponics

facilitates the adoption of

Integrated Pest Management

(IPM) programs. There is also

a significant reduction in the

use of chemicals once used

to control pests and weeds.

Moreover, neither the produce

nor the environment are

contaminated by chemicals

(Figure 4).

Higher yields and shorter times between harvests. Hence, the

total output is greater than in conventional soil systems.

Easy to learn – the technique is easy to understand, it

does not require prior knowledge and concrete results are

achieved quickly.

Simplified Hydroponics is not highly technological and

requires only household labour, generally supplied by

women (Figures 4 and 5).

Use of recycled materials – it is possible to use recycled

materials to build growing systems.

Subsequently, growers can use materials they already have

on hand, e.g. wood, disposable packaging materials, etc.

(Figures 4 and 5).

Simplified Hydroponics is a source of income from direct

sales, for family or community owned micro-enterprises.

In simple terms, it is possible to grow high quality, safe

foodstuffs using Simplified Hydroponics techniques. Fruit

and vegetables have a high biological and dietary value.

Crops for household consumption are harvested when

they are ready to be used. Hence, the produce is fresh and

Figure 3. Strawberries grown upright in plastic boxes, plastic and PVC pipes, at a home-made con-venient height above the ground irrigation system which recycles

the water and nutrients.


INDUSTRYPhotos: A

quafood

retains its nutritional and medicinal properties (vitamins,

minerals, phyto-nutrients, etc.). As a result of these

benefits, the technique is being promoted by FAO/RLC as

part of its Urban Agriculture strategy for the production

of vegetables in limited spaces

in urban and peri-urban areas

(Popular Hydroponics Gardens

by J. Izquierdo – FAO/RLC, 1994

and PH&G No. 71).

In order to achieve maximum

quality, the availability of good

potable water is essential. This

drinking water may come from

the municipal tap water system,

it may be clean rainwater, or it

may be filtered and chlorinated.

To a large extent, this is made easier because of the low

water volume needed for Simplified Hydroponics.

Currently, the use of Simplified Hydroponics technology is

not widespread. Among the factors that account for this are

the following:

• Scarce dissemination of information concerning the

benefits of the technology.

• Constraints regarding the availability of trained technicians

with a working knowledge of Simplified Hydroponics and

who produce the nutrient solution locally and at a low

cost.

• Prevalence of the organic agriculture paradigm, where

fertilizers are seen as toxic. It would be valuable for

Simplified Hydroponics programs

of this nature to be implemented

by governments, municipalities,

non-governmental organizations

and international agencies. Such

programs could train more

technicians to teach Simplified

Hydroponics and provide easier

access to nutrient solutions.

To ensure food safety to the end

consumer, there needs to be a

plan from seed to plate. Such a

plan needs to look at familiar cost-

effective rainwater catchment

systems and/or water purification using chlorine and simple

filters. It is also necessary to continue researching more

options that can be adapted to the urban environment.

Fortunately, successful experiences with Simplified

Hydroponics are available, applied to urban locales with low

income populations. These programs started as a result of

private and governmental initiatives, including international

programs. These organizations have

found that Simplified Hydroponics

is a good alternative for producing

safer urban crops and they have

committed themselves to long-term

results.

conclUSionLow-cost Simplified Hydroponics

should be encouraged as one of

the basic tools for urban agriculture

worldwide, where it can be adapted

to conditions in urban and peri-urban areas to enhance food

security.

About the author:

Martin Caldeyro-Stajano is the President of the Uruguayan

Hydroponics Society (ASUDHI), an international consultant

and a regular contributor to Practical Hydroponics and

Greenhouses.

Sources:• Juan Izquierdo-Cesar Marulanda, “Popular Hydroponics Gardens”,

FAO/RLC, 1994.

• FAO, “Rome Declaration on World Food Security and World Food

Summit Plan of Action”, November 1996, Rome.

• Food and Drug Administration (FDA), US Department of

Agriculture Centers for Disease Control

and Prevention, “Final Guidance:

Guide to Minimize Microbial Food

Safety Hazards for Fresh Fruits and

Vegetables”, 1998.

• Stineke Oenema. “Home Food

Security”, FAO/RLC, 2001.

• FAO, “The State of Food Insecurity

in the World”, SOFI, 2003.

• Raloff Janet, “Leaden gardens”,

Science News; vol. 164, Nº 23,

Dec 6, 2003.

Email: [email protected] Website: www.chasque.net/aquafood

Figure 5. View of a family hydroponic system in the backyard of a house, using SH techniques, made of

simple materials. This garden is making the most of the party wall under the leadership of a woman. Yellow

traps catch insects (IPM).

This article was previously published in Australia by the magazine Practical Hydroponics and Greenhouses

Figure 4. Small family greenhouse (10 m2)

AQUAFOOD is a consultant company, which dedicates to :

• Develop and execute social hydroponic projects.• Develop and execute commercial hydroponic projects.

• Teach hydroponics, through courses and lectures.• Promote vegetable hydroponic production as urban agriculture.

• Promote the use of aromatic plants.

AQUAFOOD - Cno. Servando Gómez 2491- Montevideo - UruguayTelefax: +598 2 6002299 - E-mail: [email protected]

www.chasque.net/aquafood

Ing. Agr. (M. Sc.) Martin Caldeyro StajanoConsultor InternacionalInternational Consultant

www.chasque.net/asudhi Available in English and Spanish


BOTANYPhotos: D

ave Guillem

ette

Perhaps during a recent walk you have noticed that where

there are flowers there are always insects? Since plants cannot

move, they have had to learn to exploit their environment –

it is a question of survival of the species. Flower production

is one method to take advantage of pollinating insects that

go from male to female flowers. Once flowers were created,

nature gave them different techniques to attract insects;

perfume is one of those. Whether it smells like a rose or like

rotten meat, each plant’s odour has its own use – and that

is what we shall explore.

Plants Emit PErfumEs to…-attract Pollinating insEcts

Some plants emit perfumes to attract insects. Foraging

insects bring pollen along and deposit it without intent on

a neighbouring flower, now fertilized. Flowers have varied

odours, and for a reason: each type of insect has particular

olfactive sensibilities and flowers do not all wish to attract

the same type of insect. Some plants, such as orchids, emit

little or no perfume – in that case, it is their shape which will

attract insects.

-rEPEl HErbivorEs Some plants, such as patchouli, emit odours that can repel

come animals and insects that would otherwise take a bite

out of the plant. This principle is at the basis of companion

gardening, where one repulsive plant is coupled to a

cultivated plant and keeps the insects at bay.

-EliminatE comPEtition

Plants secrete some substances that can prevent the

germination of seeds from other varieties up to a certain

distance. Some trees, such as the beech, secrete toxic

substances through their roots and thus limit the root

progression of other varieties of trees that are looking for

the same minerals. It is thus not surprising that beeches

tend to slowly eliminate other tree varieties to create a

monoculture.

-Warn of a DangEr

When an animal eats a large quantity of leaves, some tree

species become toxic and send a signal to other trees of

the same species growing nearby, for them to also become

toxic. A study was done in

1979 with potted willows.

Caterpillar-infected and non

infected plants were placed

in the same room. Two weeks

later, the defence mechanism

of all the plants, infected or

not, was active. That is to say

that plants communicate…

HoW DoEs it Work?Plants are able to emit odours because they can produce a

volatile compound called phenol. Phenols are benzene-based

and can travel long distances in the air or the wind. In many

cases, these gases are chemical signals aiming to generate

a physiological reaction within the plant, insect or animal

that perceives them. Some phenols, called flavonoids, are

responsible for the colouring and the smells used by plants

to attract pollinating insects. Phenols can even be released

in the air to attract an insect that feeds on the pest insect!

Phenolic compounds are at the core of allelopathy, the

plant’s capacity to inhibit the growth of other plants within

the same ecosystem. These volatile gases can be emitted by

all parts of the plant, and they form, more or less, a tree’s

alphabet!

victim or attackEr?Plants have found many ways to protect themselves against

predator organisms, and the roles are now reversed.

Herbivores are being manipulated by the many plants in their

environment and plants are no longer the victim. Insects

and mammals pollinate the flowers, spread the seeds and

eat plants – but not just any one of them, and not in too

large a quantity, or they could spread the word and react in

great number!

morPHological cHangE, PHysiological DEvEloPmEnt

PErfumE, alWaysby DavE guillEmEttE

For those who enjoy sitting by a fountain in the park, or

by a mountain stream to relax with the soothing sound of

running water, I am here to tell you how you may bring

that experience into your home by creating an indoor water

feature that is both relaxing and easy to maintain. Whether

you call it a fountain, a water garden or an indoor stream,

most water features are composed of the same basic parts:

• A reservoir to hold the water

• A small water pump to move the water

• A structure for the water to flow over (rocks, wood, or a

sheet of glass)

Once you have the basic elements you may add items to

personalise your feature. Many people like to incorporate

ambient lighting and plants into their fountains to add a

natural look that complements the sound of running water.

This may easily be done and does not make maintenance

any more difficult. Some may wish to adapt the feature to

be a water fountain for pets. If you decide to make a feature

for animals, be sure to think about what plants, if any, you

incorporate into the feature, because a thirsty cat may also

decide to snack on your bamboo if it is accessible.

Indoor water features have

become very popular and

are often available at home

and garden centers all year

round. Whether you want a

pre-fabricated one that sits

on a shelf or want to try your

hand at making your own,

the materials needed are

usually easy to obtain.

I will tell you about

some of the

styles of water

f e a t u r e s

available and how to start your own.

The quickest and easiest way to have an indoor water

feature is to go to a home and garden center to look at what

is available. Most stores that carry them have a selection of

styles and sizes. Some specialty garden centers will tend to

have a larger selection ranging from 15 centimetres high to

1.8 meters high, all ready to receive water and be plugged

in, so do a bit of looking around before you buy and you

will have a better chance of finding one that fits well in your

home.

The more ambitious may decide to make their own. Here

are some hints on how to go about doing just that and what

is required as far as planning and materials.

Planning your design is the most important part of the

process: it will determine the lifespan, efficiency and look of

the final product and will also give an indication of how long

it will take to complete and how much it is going to cost.

I like to start by finding where I want the water feature to

be. Knowing how much sunlight and how much household

traffic that area gets are major factors in placing the water

feature, especially if you plan to add plants. Think about

the people and pets in your home and the likelihood of the

water feature getting bumped or knocked over. Always

keep in mind the water aspect of your feature – an overflow

could mean water damage in your home or someone else’s

if you live in an apartment. Water is heavy (1 gallon weighs

8.35 lbs, i.e. 1 litre weighs 1 kilogram); if you do not support

the weight of a water feature properly, it could collapse,

and cleaning up a collapsed water feature is not relaxing.

So armed with the possible setbacks in mind, pick a safe

and accessible spot, and remember that you still want to be

able to see it as well as hear it. With any fountain or trickling

water feature, there is a chance that some water may splash

a bit, so be careful around furniture and electricity and do

your best to build a structure that will deter splashing. The

area chosen will then help dictate how large or small you

want to build your feature.

Another option is to set up an aquarium with aquatic plants.

It is less maintenance than one with fish and may be just as

beautiful and rewarding. For this you will need an aquarium

with a water pump, water heater, gravel or stones to hold the

plants in place and aquatic plants, all of which are available at

pet shops, usually as an aquarium start-up kit (not including

the aquatic plants). Aquarium sizes and plant species vary a

great deal and aquarium stones and gravel come in many


GARDEN DESIGNPhoto: A

quasculpture

Indoor Water Features, by edWard Jackson

colours, so it is fairly easy to find something that suits

your home. Setting up is quite easy. Place the aquarium in

your chosen location on a solid surface – because once an

aquarium is full of water, it may be too heavy to move and

might collapse a shelf or small table. Be aware that direct

sunlight will affect water temperature and may encourage

algae growth on the inside walls of the aquarium, which

may block light thus affecting plant growth, so select your

plants and the location of the aquarium accordingly.

Once you have chosen a location, fill the aquarium halfway

with water. Without plugging it in, place the water pump

where it will be when the aquarium is running – some

are mounted on the side of the aquarium and others are

submerged in the aquarium itself. Then place the water

heater in a similar manner – heaters are also either side-

mounted or submerged. Both the heater and the pump will

be plugged in later.

Now you are ready to add the gravel or stones you have

selected to hold the plants in place. Most stones and gravel

need to be rinsed under running water before they are

added to the aquarium, as dust on them may clog your

water pump. I recommend placing them in a strainer and

running warm water over them while gently stirring with

your hand to help loosen any dirt on the gravel or stones.

Now that they have been rinsed you may place them in

the aquarium. It is best to add them slowly rather than

dumping them in all at once, not just because you could

crack the aquarium but because of the displacement of

the water created by adding the stones or gravel. It is the

same principle as filling a bath tub to its full capacity then

climbing in: water will be displaced and overflow. With the

pump and heater in place, slowly add water to the half-filled

aquarium to raise the water level. If you want the sound of

trickling water, simply leave a 2-centimetre gap between the

water surface and the return spout of the water pump. For

a louder water running sounds, lower the water level in the

aquarium, but be sure that it is not too low for the water

pump or heater to work; if it is too low the pump will be

“running dry” and eventually it will burn out the motor and

stop working and heaters may explode if they are run dry.

Water pumps need to be submerged or have water running

through them at all times and heaters need to be in water to

work properly. Now that the water is at the level you want,

plug in and turn the pump and heater on to let the water

circulate. This will give you an idea of how quiet or loud your

water sounds are.

Once everything is running to your satisfaction and all the

gravel and stones are in place, the next step is introducing

plants to the aquarium. I prefer to leave the aquarium running

without plants for at least a week once the water and gravel

are in place, just to let the water quality stabilize as far as

temperature and pH. You may also add aquatic plant food to

prepare the water for when the plants arrive.

This step is not completely necessary,

but if you are able to be patient it

will provide a stable environment

for the new plants. Remember that

no matter where you acquire your

aquatic plants, they are coming from

a healthy, stable environment (or else

they wouldn’t be growing) and throwing

them into an aquarium of cold, unstable,

nutrient-free water could be enough to kill them, so try to

be patient during the set up process. It will save you return

trips to buy new plants. When selecting your plants, talk

to the salespeople about what you hope to achieve with

your aquarium and let them know that there will be no fish

to provide the plants with natural nutrients. They should

be able to guide your selection and tell you of appropriate

plant nutrients. When you are ready to add the plants, there

are a few things to keep in mind while arranging them in

the aquarium. Water pumps have an intake where water is

drawn into the pump – there is a suction current created,

which can pull plants into the pump if they are too close, so

try to keep plants away from the intake area of your water

pump. Another thing to consider is the spacing between

plants, because as they grow they will spread out in all

directions, even under the gravel and stones, so don’t place

them too close together or they may compete for space and

choke one another out.

After about a week you will notice better growth because

the plants do need time to adjust to their new environment.

Over all, it is about a two week process to set everything up

and have a healthy, stable aquatic garden. It may of course

be done in an hour if you must, but my experience with all

plants is that patience yields better harvests.

In the second part of this article, we will discuss other types

of indoor water features.

Phot

o: S

piri

t Ele

men

ts

31

GARDEN DESIGN


Photos: Aquasculpture, M

ontrealGALLERY

Aquasculpture…


PLANT HEALTH

When you need to give plants – especially valuable plants, heirlooms, rare species, friends’ plants

that you are responsible for while they are away – an adequate nutritive solution that is neither too

strong nor too weak, questions arise: which brand should you use and, within the available brands,

should you make a horizontal choice, using one line of products, or a vertical association of specific

products from different brands? There are many possibilities, an infinite quantity of associations

and opinions all over the spectrum.

I – A Question Of Personal Choice And Of Experience! (B.B.)Trusting one brand over others starts with the preparation of soil. Some gardeners prefer to mix

their own soil using their favourite products, as this gardener states on his personal web site

(http://perso.club-internet.fr/kills/pages/nutri.html): “If you buy soil, you will probably not need

to give nitrogen to the plants, but I prefer mixing my own soil because I do not have faith in

commercial soil mixes. I know at least one large brand of soil that made a great quantity of potting

soil using pondage water that contained too much boron, and nothing could grow in it. With

extremely valuable exotic plants, I cannot allow myself to believe the opinion of strangers to make

my soil. To be sure that it is well made, you must make it yourself.”

Plant Foods – Part 3Choosing A Nutritive Solution: Using A Complete Line Of Products

From The Same Brand Or Combining Many? by, William S.Burns on Begonia Rex caused by too much sun exposure.

Inset: Burns on a strawberry plant, caused by nutritive deficiencies.

Photos: Bruno Bredoux & SA

DEF

As for nutrients, whether we use the same product line

or we alternate, the most important thing is not to use a

heavy hand. Some indoor gardeners have acquired with the

years the necessary experience to combine and associate

brands: one product for cuttings, one for growth, another

for flowering, etc. It works because they have tested their

brand associations throughout the years. A beginner or an

uncertain gardener will rather use a complete product line.

Some gardeners think it is better to alternate; others, after

costly experiments, prefer to use only one product line, which

allows them not to question everything. A gardener burnt

by a destroyed crop due to over-fertilization caused by the

successive application of several nutrient

brands exclaims (as reported

on his discussion forum):

“Now I use all the nutrients

from the same brand and I

feel more at ease. I only add

the BN-Zym bio-catalyst

[Bio-Nova-brand enzymes,

editor’s note], because it

gives me good results. I rinse

the substrate once every two weeks with BN-Zym.

Other than that, I only use nutrients from the same brand.

No more mixing products from two companies!”

Manufacturers, of course, recommend that we use their

entire product line. It is sometimes good, however, to listen

to the advice of your hydroponic products salesperson. If

you hesitate, ask the salesperson for his or her professional

advice – it is based on foolproof experience. Public quality

labels can also be interesting, if not an unavoidable point

in favour of certain brands. A plant requires the perfect

association of at least 17 nutritive elements to grow well

– you are thus justified to hesitate and think things over

before finding the products that will help it the most. The 17

essential elements are the following: light, carbon dioxide,

hydrogen, nitrogen, phosphorous, potassium, calcium,

sulphide, molybdenum, iron, manganese, magnesium,

boron, copper, zinc and chlorine. This list, however, is not

exhaustive. Depending on the plant varieties grown, all kind

of other macronutrients and micronutrients are required,

from trace minerals to fresh ashes to granite dust!

A nutritive deficit is easily identifiable through the burns

that can appear on your plant’s leaves. Some companies

have specialized in the diagnosis of nutritional deficiencies

from a photograph or a scan of the affected leaves! Most of

those companies offer a complete analysis and recommend

product lines from companies they are affiliated with.

Once again, your gullibility and your confidence will be put

to the test. Each gardener must weigh the evidence and

decide whom to trust. The SADEF is a French company

(SARL) with 33 employees, based in Alsace (Aspach-le-

Bas, Upper Rhine) that specializes in environmental and

agronomic analysis and expertise. The company has an

analysis lab to answer the international requests for analysis

related to plant nutrition (www.sadef.fr). According to its

motto, “Agriculture – whether French, European, even

international – is more and more contractualized, both on

a production level (food safety requirements, maintenance

of soil production potential, etc.) and on an environmental

constraint level (respect of directives on nitrate, phosphorous

follow-up, livestock waste, spreading of garbage plans, etc.)

Analysis performed by laboratories officially recognized for

their competence and impartiality will allow us to meet the

agro-environmental world’s expectations as well as those of

citizen consumers.”

All this mostly tends to confirm how plant nutrition is a

serious, regulated and sensitive field. In this issue, William S.

from Growing Edge Technologies

(G.E.T.) gives us the best

method to follow to use

his company’s complete

product line. The

products, collectively,

are called “G.E.T. The

Power”.

II – A Family Of Nutriments: Get The Best Out Of The Growing Edge Technologies (G.E.T. The Power) Products! (William S.)

It involves a bit of extra work, but as with any project that

I have ever worked on, I found that a little extra care made

for many years’ worth of fine enjoyment! Each of our B &

B Hydroponic Gardens store managers has been taught this

plant feeding method: feel free to ask any of them more

specific questions regarding your specific applications.

As a plant goes through its natural stages of development,

its needs for certain mineral elements increase. Using G.E.T.’s

Power Products charged elements is recommended for the

overall health of the plant. These products are designed to

deliver that extra mineral element, which a plant requires Phot

os: B

io N

ova

& B

runo

Bre

doux

3�VOLUME 2 – ISSUE 1 THE INDOOR GARDENER

PLANT HEALTH

Freshly fertilized

dahlia shoots.

for development. Timing is everything! When applied at

the proper time, the plants can benefit greatly. Do not use

more than the recommended amounts until you are familiar

with the product. Experiment with a few plants and see the

results; try the product at different strengths and different

times. We use very pure, high-grade mineral elements.

You can use this family of products with any nutrient

solution, soil or hydroponics.

1) The ChartPrepping soil : add all dry ingredients, mix thoroughly

together (Soil-less soil 107 l, Bat Power 250 ml, Kelp Power

250 ml, Gel Power 250 ml, Coal Power, lime (use a fine grit

lime) 750 ml).

The Aroma Formula: Start building the nutrient solution

using 12 ml of the Aroma Formula VA & VB concentrates

(for vegetative growth) and 20 ml of the MB (Micro Base)

concentrate per 10 litres of water for hydroponics and 15

litres of water for soilless soil. Change the nutrient solution

every four days. Monitor the leaf colour to see if you need to

increase or decrease the amount of VA & VB concentrates.

When the leaves are light green, it usually requires an

increase of one ml of concentrate or more. When the

leaves are dark green, hold or lower the amount of A& B

concentrates. Always use 20 ml of the MB concentrate. For

herbs, flowers and vegetables, use VA & VB with MB from

seedling to the beginning of flowering or fruit production;

at this time, switch to FA & FB with MB. Start mixing the

Aroma Formula FA & FB solutions, 1 ml over the level that

you were at during the vegetation stage. Keep increasing or

decreasing based on the colouring of the leaves. Always use

20 ml of the MB concentrate. There are growers who only

use 19 to 22 ml of the A& B concentrates, staying with a

normal growth rate, which is highly recommended.

Cuttings: use Power Thrive at the rate of 4 ml per litre of

water. Use nutrient solution at 3 strength.

Transplanting: use Power Thrive at the rate of 4 ml per litre

of water and use Power Transplant.

Vegetation f irst 8 days:

a) use Power Thrive at the rate of 2 ml per litre of water.

b) use Power Start at the rate of 2 ml per litre of water.

Vegetation: use Power Start at the rate of 3 ml per litre of

water.

Vegetation last week: use Power PreFlowers at the rate of 3

ml per litre of water.

Flowering: use Power Preflowers at the rate of 3 ml per litre

of water.

Flowering boost: use Power To Bloom at the rate of 1 ml

(1 gram) per 10 litres of water. Four days later use Umph

Power.

Flowering boost 4 days later: mist Umph Power at the rate of

4 ml per litre of water.

Last 4 weeks f lowering: use Power Fruit Set at the rate of

3 ml per litre of water for the last four weeks of flowering.

(Power Start, Power PreFlowers, Power Fruit Set can be used

as a growing medium drench, but also can be used as a

foliar mist at the rate of 10 ml per litre of water).

Last week of f lowering: use the Rinse Solution at the rate of 1

ml per liter of water. Depending on the shade of green you

have, will take between – light green, 3 days, – dark green,

observe 8 days, – of the Rinse Solution.

Hydroponics or plants planted in soilless soil: use Sea Power

at the rate of 5-10 ml per litre of water.

Humic fertil ization: Humic Power a) soil: soak at 15 ml per 4 litres of water.

b) hydroponics: 15 ml per 10 litres of water.

c) soil to hydroponics: use at least three times per crop.

(May be used every time you water plants).

Fulvic fertil ization: Fulvic Power at the rate of 2 ml per litre

of water; mist plants once every two weeks.

a) soil: soak at the rate of 5 ml per 10 litres of water.

b) hydroponics: mix 1 ml per litre of water.

Warning: When trying something new, always test it on a few

leaves or branches to make sure the product is compatible

with your nutrient formula program. We are always trying

our products at different stages and strengths. This allows

us to find out what way works best, but

you as the gardener will be monitoring

your plants with a daily visit. And as

the gardener, you will find out what

will work best for you. So follow our

instructions and then experiment.

�0THE INDOOR GARDENER VOLUME 2 – ISSUE 1

PLANT HEALTHPhoto: Burns on B

egonia Rex caused by too much sun exposure (Bruno Bredoux).

2) The “G.E.T. The Power” Products• The Aroma FormulaGarden plants don’t just thrive on the Aroma Formula but

exceed their normal growth potential, with dynamic flowers

and better overall health. G.E.T. has separated the various

components and trace elements necessary for growth into

five concentrated nutrient solutions, two for vegetative

growth (VA & VB), two for flowering (FA & FB) and a chelated

trace element compound {MB) used throughout the entire

growth cycle. Adding the micro base separately ensures

that these trace elements are not damaged by unfavourable

pH levels. The Aroma Formula’s unique properties also

enhance the aromatic oils

produced by most herbs,

resulting in a dense rich

fragrance, which lends

itself to any meal.

• Power ThrivePower Thrive is not a plant food. Power Thrive is a carefully

formulated blend of vitamins and natural plant hormones

derived from kelp, for use during all phases of plant

development. Our chemist has

discovered a unique way of

extracting the valuable growth

potential from kelp, one of the

world’s fastest growing plants.

Power Thrive helps your plants

survive during stressful periods

of growth, especially when

starting seeds, transplanting,

or taking cuttings. Power Thrive

also ensures a stronger, more

vigorous vegetation growth.

When used during flowering, blooms become more vibrant

and the fruit quality is enhanced.

• Power To BloomTypical vegetation stage to flowering stage of plants.

Just a powder fertilizer?

No! It’s a proven flower

enhancer! Power to

Bloom’s unique chemistry

makes it work. When

applied at the right time,

it provides your plants

with plenty of flower

power. Plants will flower

so profusely that you will notice significant changes in three

to four days. And wait until you see the results of the second

application!

Power To Bloom should be used once plants are starting to

bloom heavily, at about the third week of flowering. You

will notice flowers starting to be reproduced like crazy; at

this time, add Power To Bloom. Allow plants to utilize the

fertilizer for two weeks before the next application.

• Umph PowerWhen a plant is growing at a very

rapid rate, some or all of the elements

will be utilized at a very fast pace. We

recommend misting your garden with

Umph Power. Umph Power is formulated

to provide key mineral elements that,

when applied as a foliar mist onto the

leaves, will bring out the oils.

• Rocket PowerUpward fluctuations in your nutrient solution’s pH is a sign

that your plants are feeding heavily and are in great health.

A continual drop in pH indicates

that the plant is fighting off a

virus or bacterial infection in

the root zone. Using fertilizer

programs that have pH buffers

is not an option, and it’s not

as easy to continually monitor

soil or soilless mediums. Rocket

Power is designed to increase

the health of a plant by giving

it pure mineral elements and a

kick-start of growth so that it

can get a head start and fend

off its disease. Use also if the

surface of the leaves is dull – healthy leaves have a vibrant

shine to them. Note: Apply to the root zone only!

• The Rinse SolutionMost gardeners use water to flush the excess fertilizer

salts from their plant roots, so that

the remaining nutrients are utilized.

This ensures that the harvested plant

contains fewer nitrates but it restricts

the production of sugars and starches

and slows the plant’s development.

The Rinse Solution provides fast acting

sugars and starches that fuel growth

�1VOLUME 2 – ISSUE 1 THE INDOOR GARDENER

PLANT HEALTHPh

otos

: B &

B H

ydro

poni

c G

arde

ns —

Illu

stra

tion

: Ann

a K

anar

as

while still allowing the plant to deplete the remains of

certain mineral elements in its system. More growth, more

fruit, better taste!

• Power StartThis Power formula produces fast results on young plants.

Power Start helps to build stronger, larger, and healthier

plant stock and roots, which

are needed to achieve high

yields of fruit and vegetables.

Apply Power Start at the

first stage of foliage growth

and continue every five to

seven days.

• Power PreFlowerThis unique formula is for blossom set.

We formulated Power PreFlowers to be

high in phosphate to stimulate the setting

of blossoms on garden plants. Power

PreFlowers is recommended at the first

signs of blossoms. Always spray in the

early moming, apply every five to seven

days.

• Power Fruit SetThis formula is designed to increase the

setting of fruits, pods, tubers, etc. Apply

Power Fruit Set when the plants are at

about 70% bloom and 30% fruit. Always

spray early in the morning. Apply Power

Fruit Set every five to seven days.

• Transplant PowerGive your transplants an added boost of growth during

this critical time in their life – remember getting kicked out

of the womb and those first few minutes of life when you

cried? You wanted back in there! Well, think about the poor

plant you just ripped out of the incubation tray and shoved

under a harsher, much stronger light. Now you need to use

Transplant Power with its vitamin-

enriched gel. Transplant Power

sticks to the root ball and doesn’t

easily wash away like most water-

soluble fertilizers. It provides the

roots with the mineral elements

that the plant needs for a healthy

start. The growth potential of

Transplant Power is enhanced

when mixed with plant hormones – such as Power Thrive

– before use.

• Fulvic PowerFulvic Power is a gold-coloured liquid that,

when applied as a foliar spray, will give

plants a growth spurt or more flowering

power. When applied to the soil, it will cause

the roots to expand rapidly, looking to fuel

their growth. More roots means healthier

plants. (Fulvic Power is a by-product of the

manufacturing of Humic Power.)

• Humic PowerHumic acid helps the plant with its cationic and anionic

exchange and results in more mineral elements flowing

through the vascular system. Humic Power releases many

minerals, vitamins, amino acids and

growth enhancing compounds,

for faster vegetation growth

and increased flower formation.

Humic Power also has buffering

capabilities for pH and high salt

content and promotes better

germination rates among seeds.

• Kelp Power and Sea PowerFor hundreds of years, island farmers have gathered kelp,

washed out the sea salt and spread the dried kelp out on

their fields before planting. With Sea Power, your plants

can continue to benefit from the power

of kelp during all stages of their growth

development. Sea Power is a liquefied kelp

concentrate that, like Kelp Power, contains

many growth regulators and mineral

elements. Sea Power is processed with

fresh water to minimize any alteration in

growth potential due to harsh chemicals.

• Gel PowerPowerful Gel Power is a synthetic polyacrylamide with a

potassium salt base. It is a safe, non toxic polymer used

in all horticultural applications. When used according to

the application rates, Gel Power can reduce irrigation

frequency by 50% and last three to five

years. Gel Power is specifically designed for

the horticultural and agricultural industry

to reduce the transplanting shock, reduce

the stress from drought and to increase the

aeration of the soil. Gel Power holds a lot of

water; 5 ml of Gel Power will retain 500 to

750 ml of water.


PLANT HEALTH

BWGS is a Proud Distributor of Sunleaves Garden Products.

7854 N. SR 37 Bloomington, IN 47404

2247 N. Plaza Drive Visalia, CA 93291

Get the new Gardener’sDigest - available now.96 pages of great products and info.Ask for it by name.

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Most complete up-to-datelisting of Sunleaves® products.

Indoor_Gardener_SLnewweb.qxd 5/22/06 4:47 PM Page 1

Photos: B & B H

ydroponic Gardens

Phot

os:

BWGS is a Proud Distributor of Sunleaves Garden Products.

7854 N. SR 37 Bloomington, IN 47404

2247 N. Plaza Drive Visalia, CA 93291

Get the new Gardener’sDigest - available now.96 pages of great products and info.Ask for it by name.

BWGS 800-316-1306 BWGS WEST 888-316-1306fax 800-316-1264 fax 800-316-1264

Our business-to-business website continues to set the standard.• Easy Online Ordering• Downloadable POS literature

and MSDS data sheets• Easy Online Freight Claims• Online Return Authorizations

Downloadable product instructions & warranty information.

Find a store near you withour online store locator!

Most complete up-to-datelisting of Sunleaves® products.

Indoor_Gardener_SLnewweb.qxd 5/22/06 4:47 PM Page 1

��THE INDOOR GARDENER VOLUME 2 – ISSUE 1

PLANT HEALTH

There finally is an ecological and natural solution for fly

control. The solution? Using microscopic beneficial worms

called threadworms or nematodes.

To Each InsEcT ITs nEmaTodEThere are many species of nematodes.

Each species attacks specifically a

limited number of harmful pests.

Some nematodes attack beetles,

some attack lepidoptera, others

attack diptrous insects, and some

species attack more than one group of

pests. The most efficient nematodes

to use against fly larvae are called

Steinernema feltiae.

The most common flies controlled by

S. feltiae are, among others, sciarid

flies, small fruit flies and houseflies

WhEn To apply nEmaTodEsIt is advised to apply nematodes as soon as you observe

adult flies or find larvae or pupae. For use outdoors, apply

nematodes at dusk or under cloudy conditions.

WhErE To apply nEmaTodEsNematodes must be applied on organic substrate, soil, coco

fibre or on rock wool. They can also be introduced in a drip-

irrigation system or in other types of irrigation systems. Keep

in mind, however, that these small beneficial worms are not

fish: they can only survive in water for a few hours. Never

apply nematodes directly to the plant or its leaves.

An EcologicAl Solution AgAinSt Fly ProblEmSPar Daniel Gingras

Phot

os: G

uy B

élai

r, Bi

bion

& A

EF G

loba

l Inc

.

Nematodes can also be used outdoors. You can use them,

for example, in compost, manure or in a vegetable garden

to control onion maggots, carrot flies or cabbage flies.

Why UsE nEmaTodEs?Nematodes are useful because adult flies often are disease

carriers and because fly larvae can affect the growth of

plants.

S. feltiae efficiently control the larvae of many fly species

and diptrous insects that develop in organic matter. When

they find larvae, the small worms penetrate them through

natural orifices such as the mouth, anus or others. Once

in the blood stream, the nematodes release symbiotic

bacteria that proliferate and cause the larvae’s death. The

nematodes then develop by feeding off of the insect’s

carcass. A few days later, thousands of tiny worms leave

the carcass, bringing along the symbiotic bacteria. They are

ready to infect other live larvae. Because of this mode of

reproduction, the gardener will see the largest quantity of

dead larvae a few days after the treatment, and

not immediately after it. The nematode-infested

larvae are usually brown, grey or black

arE ThEy dangEroUs For planTs and hUmans?Nematodes present no danger for plant health

or human health. They do not affect plant

growth.

WhErE can I gET nEmaTodEs?At AEF Global inc., a Québec-based company

that is specialized in the research, development

and commercialization of ecological solutions

for the control of pests, diseases and weeds. The company

can be reached at 1 866 622-3222, extension 114. For more

information, see its web site: www.aefglobal.com.


INDUSTRY

Through time, humanity on occasion has come up with quantum leaps in technology.

Hydroponics, the printing press, electricity, the light bulb, the radio, the TV, HID

lighting, the Internet, and, yes, high intensity fluorescent indoor grow lights. They are

a complete paradigm shift, a new way of looking at things.

Stephen R. Covey has said, “If you want to make small changes in your life, change your

attitude and change your behavior. If you want to make quantum leap changes, then

change your paradigm!” Indoor growing with high intensity fluorescent systems is just

that: a quantum leap in indoor gardening. It means less heat and more production at

less than half the energy consumption. It also means plants that are happier, healthier,

and produce a greater yield.

In multiple controlled tests, we have documented a 25% increase in production with

half the wattage for vegetative growth. We have seen 210 to 220 watts outperforming

400 watts metal halide lamps and 420 to 440 watts

outperforming 1000 watt metal halide lamps. Not only

did the plants produce more – they were healthier, with

tighter internodal spacing and a hardier stem wall. The

hardier plants also acclimated much better to being

transplanted outdoors.

For some of us who have been indoor gardeners for over

30 years, this was unbelievable. I thought I was very wise

when I said “Fluorescents are good for the first inch of

growth – if that. Spindly, low production, weak plants,

etc.” And yet! At no time in my life have I enjoyed eating

my words more.

Para Lumen Paradigm ShiftHigh Intensity Fluorescent Plant Growth – T5 and TT105

By Charles Winslow Photo: Charles Winslow

Pioneer light above peppers

Pioneer light above peppers

Roots of peppers grown under a Pioneer light

Compared peppers under a HID light

High intensity fluorescents offer many advantages. Because

the units consume half the energy, you can gang more

units on a 15 amp system. The units can be hung vertically

or horizontally for additional lower canopy plant lighting.

With less heat emitted, more units can be run with less

ventilation, closer to the plants. The lamps have a much

longer life than metal halides. Finally, their light spectrum is

closer to daylight.

Most gardeners know that a plant’s canopy is very good at

preventing light from reaching the lower parts of the plants.

With vertical lighting, this is no longer a problem. When the

plants go into flowering, additional T5 or TT105’s can be

hung on the sides of the plants or a sodium fixture can be

placed over the canopy and the T5/TT105 can be moved to

the sides for an increased production.

In the last month, we have done several transfers of

hydroponic plants from indoor gardens to outdoors. The

basil under T5’s performed beautifully with no loss. The

peppers grown under a 1000-watt sodium lamp took a

60% loss. The new fluorescent lights drastically add new

value and production for indoor gardening.

Vertical Pioneer light


INDUSTRY

It appears that in a side-by-side trial, the Satellite II fluorescent light surpasses metal halide lights.

In a three-month, side-by-side test, habañero pepper plants growing under a 210-watt Sunleaves Satellite II fixture exhibited healthier, more compact growth than habañero peppers grown under a standard 400-watt metal halide lamp. Aside from the spacing and the type of light offered, the growing conditions of the pepper plants were identical: hydroponic system, type and amount of nutrients, substrate and light cycle duration.

All plants were grown in continuous aeration hydroponic systems. In each system, a submersible pump suctioned to the bottom of the nutrient reservoir continually splashed Technaflora’s Recipe for Success vegetative growth formula onto the roots. The pepper plants were started in horticultural grow plugs and then placed in plastic net cups containing expanded clay pellets.

With regard to light intensity, the Satellite II, equipped with two full-spectrums TT-105 fluorescent “grow” bulbs, emitted a total of 21,000 lumens and the metal halide lamp put out 30,000 lumens. The pepper plants were positioned as near each light as possible without scorching – 46 centimetres from the metal halide lamp and 10 centimetres from the fluorescent fixture. Despite the marked difference in total lumen output, light meter readings taken at the plant canopy level registered higher for plants growing under the Satellite II. Plants received 18 hours of light daily.

Photo: Charles Winslow

, Agriculture &

Agro-Food Canada &

How

ard Resh

THE TEST: The Satellite Fluorescent Light II TestBy Charles Winslow

Figure 1 – On the left,

habañero pepper seedlings

grow under the metal

halide lamp while seedlings

on the right grow under

a fluorescent light.

Note: metal

halide and

fluorescent

lights are

contained

on each

side with

the help of

a hanging

Mylar divider.

Figure 2 – Pepper plants

growing under the metal

halide lamp on the left

appear slightly taller

and paler than plants

growing under

fluorescents

on the

right.

Figure 3 – In addition to

setting some early blooms,

the plants growing under

fluorescents exhibit more

compact growth with

visibly shorter inter-nodal

spacing.

Figure 4 – The pepper

plants on the left have

now set some blooms,

but, overall, the vegetative

growth looks “leggy”

with very long inter-nodal

spacing. The plants on the

right have larger

leaves and

denser

growth.

Peppers under Pioneer light

PARTICIPATE IN OUR DRAW FOR SUSCRIBERS2 PRIZES – 1 WINNER

Prizes will be awarded by draw among the subscribers (all subscription slips received by Green Publications as of August 31, 2006). We will contact the winners and put them in touch with the companies, who will then tell them how to claim their prize. By participating in this context, the winners accept that their name and city of residence be published in the magazine. This draw is only available for subscribers residing in Canada or the United States.

The Jurassic Products are proud to offer you 4 containers of 1kg of their nutritive supplements for all growth phases:* accelerate growth;* increase stem and trunk strength;* optimize flowering.

Value: 4 x 111.98$, i.e. 447.92$ on the whole.

Distributed by: www.megawatthydro.com or 1-800-575-2515or Jurassic Products: 1-888-381-5252

“Everything you always wanted to know about hydroponics, but didn’t know where to look!”

MegaWatt Hydro-Culture is proud to offer you a Future Brite™ HID, HPS 400 watt ballast: * designed for any growth environment; * increased luminosity; * covers large surfaces with fluorescent lighting; * decreased electricity usage (27 to 37%); * very light electronic ballast; * superior performance.

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ATTENTION: EXPIRES AT THE END OF August 2006 (Source: T.I.G. — Vol.2 Issue 1)

GET THE MAGAZINE STRAIGHT TO YOUR HOME!

For the love of indoor gardening!Gardening indoors is not only providing motherly love for a few cacti in the living room:

it also includes growing tomatoes, strawberries and lettuce in industrial quantities.Such is the cornerstone of the magazine The Indoor Gardener, to cover the expectations

of the amateur indoor gardener as well as those of the commercial growerin charge of a farming operation.

ISSUE 1 - APRIL 2005ISSUE 2 - AUGUST 2005ISSUE 3 - OCTOBER 2005

ISSUE 4 - DEC. 2005

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PLANT PHYSIOLOGY

To understand what the root mass or the root system is, we

must first answer a few questions:

• What is its function and what does it do?

• It must then be defined, as there are many types of root

masses, and each takes a different form.

• Finally, we must know where the roots come from and how

they differ from the mass.

The root is the underground part of the plant, and it has two

functions: to fixate the plant in soil, and to feed the entire plant

through the absorption of water and of the nutritive

substances required for its development – the

root’s extension allows the plant to get

water from further and further layers. It is

important to note that the soil’s drainage

and irrigation play an important role in the

quality and quantity of the root mass and of

the nutritive exchanges.

The plant’s root system can take on many different

shapes and forms. There are, among others, primary roots,

secondary, capillary and tap roots. The root system can be made

up of a single large root (taproot) on which lateral or secondary

roots develop, as is the case for oaks, radishes, carrots, etc.

The root system can be made up of equally important roots

(fasciculated roots), each bearing many lateral roots, as in apple

trees and grains. Adventitious roots (roots of the strawberry

runners, of ivy shoots, etc.) are roots that come from a stem

or a rhizome.

Depending on the environment and the conditions, the roots

can sustain remarkable changes: there are buttress roots, that

seem to prop up entire trees (fig tree) or that seem to hold

it above the soil and water (as in many equatorial species),

creeping roots, sucker roots (as in the vanilla tree), etc.

When the cutting or the clone first starts, the cell that will

become a root cell is like all others. Under the influence

of a hormone – the auxin – contained in the rooting gel or

synthesized by the plant itself in smaller quantities, however,

the cell elongates to become a draft root, which will then

develop just like the seed’s radicle (see below), and the whole

of the roots will form the root system.

The first root to develop from a seed is the radicle. It comes

from the embryo contained in the seed and in a few days it

will shoot out ramifications that become the first secondary

roots. At the end of the primary root, we find the rootcap. It is

a kind of shield that protects the radicle and allows it to forage

through the substrate. Just behind the rootcap is the growth

zone where cells are constantly dividing. Above is the cellular

elongation zone, where the cells elongate and differentiate

under the influence of the auxin. Then comes the maturing

zone, where the cells take on their final shape. The exterior

layer of cells in the maturing zone, the epidermis, bears the root

hair. The root hair are the root’s main absorption agent – the

sap (water and minerals) is first diffused through the root hair’s

cell wall, then travels through the root’s conductive vessels and,

finally, through those of the stem, to finally reach the leaves.

The water and mineral salts that the hair pumps go through the

bark to reach the root core and the conductive tissues. The xylem

allows the xylem sap to go up to the leaves (photosynthesis)

and the phloem allows elaborated sap to go back down to the

roots (storage).

Elaborated sap contains glucose (C6H

12O

6), a monosaccharide∞,

an energy source for plants, which will be transformed into

cellulose or starch during one of the plant’s three mains

metabolisms, the carbohydrate

metabolism, or glycogenesis. The

sugars are stored in the roots in

that form, starch or cellulose.

Starch and cellulose are glucose

polymers or polyosides, complex

sugars following a (C6H

10O

5)n

formula. Cellulose is responsible for

the branches and stem’s rigidity and gives plants their fibrous

structure. Starch and cellulose are the plant’s energy reserves.

The plant uses these carbohydrates in different ways:

• as an immediate source of energy (because of respiration) to

function, grow, reproduce, absorb nutritive elements, etc.

• to store energy reserves: for example, before winter, the plant

stores sugars as starch. These reserves allow it to survive

winter and to start growing again early in the spring.

• to form plant tissue: sugars can be transformed (proteins,

lipids or complex sugars) into leaves, wood, flowers, fruit,

roots, etc.

The bigger the root mass, the most water and nutrients it

can grab, and the most energy reserves it can set aside. More

energy means a more abundant yield, which brings us back to

the beginning: more roots, more fruits!

∞ Simple sugars always contain C, O and H. To be more precise, they always

contain the same number of C and O and twice as much H, so a simple

sugar always follows the general formula (CnH

2nO

n)x times.

More roots, More Fruits By Red from Hydro-Sciences

Photos: D.R

.


RECIPE

Red cabbage is

the tenderest

and the softest

of all cabbages

and is too often

reserved for raw salads. A member of the headed cabbage

family, red cabbage is not only different by its pigmentation

but also because it is the headed cabbage with the firmest

head. Beware: if the red cabbage is too dark, if its color

resembles that of purple ink, it is no longer good to eat.

In any case, to avoid bloating, we recommend combining

red cabbage to carminative herbs (cumin, caraway) or to

condiments like fennel seeds. Here then is a traditional

German recipe that is gustatory, digestible, amusing and

very nutritious.

You will need:• 1 large red cabbage (approximately 600 gr)

• 30 ml brown sugar

• 250 ml shortening (or cooking oil)

• 250 ml beef fat (or duck fat)

• 1 big onion, chopped

• 2 or 3 untreated tart apples

• 30 ml cider vinegar

• 1 large dash of crushed caraway seeds

• 1 bay leaf

• 2 cloves

• 1 thyme cluster (or wild thyme)

• salt

• pepper

• nutmeg (optional)

• beef broth (or cider)

In a cast iron terrine that can be used on a stovetop, melt

the brown sugar in the shortening (or cooking oil) and

the fat. When the sugar has melted in the fat, brown the

coarsely chopped onion. While the onion slowly becomes

golden, carefully chop the red cabbage to obtain thin slices,

as you would for cole slaw. When the onion is done, add

the chopped red cabbage and the tart apples, coarsely

chopped (they will taste better with the skin on, which is

why I suggest trying to get untreated apples).

Stir every once in a while for the ingredients to mix well.

Add the cider vinegar, the dash of crushed caraway seeds,

the bay leaf, the thyme or wild thyme, and the two cloves.

Salt and pepper to taste and add, if you so wish, the nutmeg

(but not too much!).

Cover and allow to simmer, stirring from time to time. Wet

with beef broth or cider when the cooking liquid evaporates.

The dish will be cooked when the red cabbage slices become

almost neon-coloured and almost translucent.

This dish is delicious as a side-dish to white pudding (it is

the traditional German Christmas meal), but also with white

sausage or white meat. Serve it with a nutmeg-perfumed

tart apple sauce.

Photos: Cover of the book “Cuisiner comme un chef à Paris”

(Parigramme), Kahuna Burger, & La Côte de Vincent.

CookingGary’s Grand-Mother’s Sourish Red Cabbage Recipe

(Transmitted through oral tradition)

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The new book by the team at Nature Technologies has just been released, and it is exclusively

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biological methods to use to plan the steps that will allow you to move from conventional culture

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to soil-less methods and even to outdoor field crops! This book will show you how using appropriate

biological methods will ensure the protection of your plants against disease, will reinforce nutrient

absorption, will help your plants eliminate toxins, bacteria and residue for a more significant yield. The

authors also explain how to develop the propagation of beneficial organisms, such as bacteria, specific

fungi, protozoa and nematodes. Light is shed on the mystery of beautiful healthy plants – you will know all

about basic biology and the chemistry cycle of the nutritive solution. Available online or at N.T.I., P.O. box

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GREEN WONDER GARDENING INC.22 Waddell Ave.Dartmouth, NS B3B 1K3Toll Free: (877) 845-6866(902) 466-1255www.greenwonder.com

2192 Route 102 Lincoln, New Brunswick, E3B 8N1

Phone: (506) 458-9208 Facsimile: (506) 459-1377 Email: [email protected]

"TIME IS MONEY, START GROWING TODAY

6 MONTHS NO INTEREST NO PAYMENTS!" "EXCLUSIVELY AT 21ST CENTURY GARDENING!"

Tracadie3717 Rue Principale506-395-6055

Edmundston 11 Crabtree 506-737-9982.

Dieppe 663 Malenfant Blvd. 506-388-9982

P.E.I.18790 Highway 1Desable, P.E.I.902-658-3182

St-John20 Bayside Drive506-657-9982

DEN HAAN'S GARDEN WORLD

exit 18 off 101Annapolis Valley, NS(902) 825-4722www.denhaansgardenworld.comwww.denhaansgreenhouses.com

4-2133 Royal Windsor driveMississauga, Ontario

L5J 1K5(905) 403-GROW (4769)

1-877-263-6287www.secondnaturehydroponics.com

GIVE YOUR PLANTS WHAT THEY NEED

Peterborough Hydroponic Center347 Pido Road Unit 32 Peterborough OntarioPhone/Fax 745-6868Toll Free 1-866-745-6868Manufacturer of PHC Garden Productswww.hydroponics.com [email protected]

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[email protected] with “submission” in the subject line and

we will get in touch with you.

COME AND GROW WITH US!

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& WIN!!!

Photos: Hesi.nl and S.C.


PLANT HEALTH

Thanks to HydroTek, who owns the American continent

distribution rights, the Dutch products Hesi, already well-

known in Europe, have recently landed in North America.

An Original Nutrient LineHesi-brand plant nutrients have been designed for three

different types of culture: in soil, in hydroponics and on

coco fibre. With each product, Hesi gives the customer a

calendar corresponding to the duration of growth and

flowering cycles in each of the three substrates, as well as a

schedule of the required use of each nutrient.

The originality of the new Hesi, Hesi-Hydro and Hesi-Coco

nutrients is that the company has chosen to market a unique,

pre-mixed product instead of splitting the nutrients in A +

B parts, as is the norm. This type of nutrient, as a unique

mixture, brings about many advantages for the gardener.

The product is easy to use, and also very stable. This stability

is required to preserve all of the product’s qualities, from

its packing to its distribution to the roots of the user’s

plants. The advantages are both financial and ecological:

less on-site handling, less time wasted dosing, fewer empty

containers to recycle, less storage space needed, etc.

S.C.’s Recipe With Hesi Products (Reproduced From His Blog)“After spending a month gathering information on Internet

forums and grow guides, I set up my small indoor garden

and placed by newborn plants within. Here are the steps I

followed for my first harvest, in hydroponics; I am using only

Hesi products, except for Bio-Nova’s BN-Zym biocatalyst.

Supplies: • Orion Hydroponic Mini-Centre and lighting support;

• Sylvania Metal Halide 400W bulb;

• Aquarium air stone placed in the reservoir next to the

pump;

• A hygrometer thermometer;

• Mylar-covered walls;

• 52m3/minute circulating fan;

• 140m3/minute air extractor placed at the top of the closet

for now but that will soon be moved to the bottom

of the door as an injector so that I can install an RVK

365 m3/minute air extractor instead.

Products and nutrients:I use the full line of Hesi products:• Hesi Root Complex;

• Hesi hydro growth;

• Hesi Super Vit;

• Hesi pH down;

• and Bio Nova’s BN-Zym biocatalyst.

Other characteristics:• Hydro system: drip irrigation

• Substrate: rock wool

• Seeds/types of plants to germinate: to be determined.

At first I put the seeds in germination pucks for 10 days

and on the eleventh day (D+11 from the beginning of

germination), I inserted the plantlets into rock wool cubes

that I had previously decompressed for 12 hours with an

adjusted-pH solution into which I added BN-Zym.

HESI Products: A Formula Adapted To Growth And Flowering By V.G. and S.C.

Phot

os: H

esi.n

l and

S.C

.

For my first reservoir solution, I prepared a 10-litre solution

with:

• 5mL/L of water of Hesi Root Complex;

• 1 drop/5L of Hesi Super Vit;

• 1,5mL/L of water of Hesi Hydro Growth.

This gave me a 0.4 EC. The pH seems to have stabilized

around 6, but I test it often and I correct it as required with

Hesi’s pH Down. During the day, the temperature is at 25°C.

I don’t yet know about night-time, because I have only just

purchased my thermo/hygrometer. As for humidity, since

I started the meter it has varied between 40 and 45%.”

(Source: S.C.’s blog – www.forum.com/sujet-36064-2).

A Few Details on Hesi-Brand’s Newest Products• Hesi Super Vit is a product made up of 25 vitamins and of

trace minerals, which create a concentrated stimulant for an

improved growth and flowering. This product accelerates

plant metabolism while activating the hormones responsible

for growth and flowering. It also reinforces the formation of

heavy, luxurious, coloured and perfumed flowers. Hesi Super

Vit can be used in any of the three growing environments

for which Hesi products have been designed.

• Clonfix is a rooting powder designed to perfectly adhere

to the stem, hence favouring the formation of new roots

on the cutting. This rooting stimulant is recommended

for the propagation by cuttings in substrate destined for

hydroponics, such as rock wool or coco cubes. Integrated

into Clonfix is a complex mix of vitamins, minerals,

trace minerals and an anti-microbial agent to ensure

the protection of your new plants.

Hor

ticul

tura

l Nov

eltie

s Deluxe Lighting with eLux BallastsNew eLux 600-Watt Electronic Ballasts are the latest in

horticultural lighting technology. Internal microprocessors

have replaced the mechanical components found in

common HID ballasts to give eLux ballasts increased long-

term efficiency and lumen maintenance. Both of the 120-

and 240-volt eLux models are factory tested and guaranteed

by a two-year warranty and their competitive pricing makes

them as affordable as they are dependable. Wall-mountable

eLux ballasts measure 38 x 15 x 14.6 cm, weigh less than

three kilos each, include a detachable 2.5 metre power

cord and are compatible with most HID

cordsets, including the Sunleaves

cordset. Stop by your

local year ‘round garden

center to find out more.

K.B.

Long Life Net CupsMade of reinforced black plastic, Long Life Net Cups withstand

multiple uses and support most types of growing media.

Available in 7.6 and 14 cm sizes, these durable net cups are

compatible with several hydroponics systems and are also

great for gardeners making their own

one-of-a-kind set up. Long Life Net Cups

are hitting shelves nationwide

– stock up with a visit to your

favourite hydroponics supplier.

K.B.

Natural NutrientsSoil and hydroponics gardeners can nourish plants, increase

overall yields, and sweeten the flavour of their favourite

fruits and vegetables naturally with the complete new line

of Hydro-Fusion nutrients. Sweet & Heavy is the three-part

program with Prime (0-0-1), Grow (3-1-4) and Bloom (2-

6-4) while Sugar Peak Vegetative (3-1-5) and Flowering (2-

4-5) constitute the convenient two-part formulation. Each

Hydro-Fusion component supplies easily-assimilated macro-

and micro-nutrients

derived from molasses

and marine-bird and

bat guanos. Visit your

local year ‘round garden

center to find out more.

K.B.

The Fluorescent FrontierCool-operating Sunleaves Pioneer fluorescent fixtures are

particularly suited for supplementing high intensity light

during hot summer months. Available in four-, six- and eight-

tube configurations, Pioneer fixtures boast distinctive wide-

dispersion reflectors to cover a generous growing area and

include either Sunleaves VitaLUME T5 grow or bloom tube

types. Depending on tube quantity, the output of Pioneer

Grow fixtures range between 16,800 and 33,600 lumens,

while Pioneer Blooms range between 17,600 and 35,200

lumens. Great for beginners and experts alike, Pioneer

fixtures are user-friendly and guaranteed by a five-year

warranty. Find additional information on Sunleaves Pioneer

fixtures and replacement

VitaLUME tubes online at

www.sunleaves.com.

K.B.

Sunleaves Aurora ReflectorsSimplifying indoor garden expansion, Sunleaves Aurora and

Aurora 6 Reflectors have been designed to work together to

achieve optimal coverage and effectively control dark spots

when interconnected. Measuring 45 x 33.5 x 28 cm, each

Aurora features retainer tabs to secure an optional safety

lens as well as a standard socket receptacle for compatibility

with most remote ballasts. Every Aurora 6 also comes

flanged and includes the tempered glass lens, making them

perfect candidates for active ventilation, especially in gardens

receiving carbon dioxide supplementation.

Point your browser to www.sunleaves.

com to see the complete line of

Sunleaves garden products and

find out where to buy in your area.

K.B

Grotek® Seedling Heat Mat and Heat Mat ThermostatThe best temperature at the root

zone is between 27–20ºC (80–

68ºF). The heat mat will warm

the growing medium

up. And to keep the

heat mat temperature accurate, use the heat

mat thermostat. It works like a min/max

thermometer that ensures heat accuracy

while you are away. It will even let you know

temperatures in your grow room when you’re

out of town!

W.S.


SHOPPINGPhotos: W

orm’s W

ay & B &

B Hydoponic G

ardens

Phot

os: A

tam

i, A

.R.I.

& G

reen

Air


SHOPPING

The ARI Reactor MX120 Carbon Filter The Reactor MX120 is the ideal carbon filter and scrubber for small

areas. Its main advantage is the ease with which you can replace

the carbon: simply remove the two thumb-screws to release the

fan. Once the fan is removed, pour out the old used carbon and

replace with a new bag of ARI carbon. Then, pop the fan back into

place, reinstall the thumb-screws and the filter is ready for use.

The Reactor MX120 now features an engineered MERV-8 prefilter

with a tackified antimicrobial biocide tested under ASHRAE 52.25 -

with an average efficiency of 49%. Multiple units can be deployed

in an environment, although the unit is also perfect for small

closets and similar enclosures. The filter comes complete with an

integrated hanging hook and a 1.8-meter power cord.

The Reactor MX120 was always made of wood, but now it is

available in metal too. It is just as easy to refill, and is very similar

to its wood counterpart. There are a few differences: there are no

pre-filters on the metal version, and it has been powder-coated to

an attractive matte black finish. The metal version has no hanging

hook, and has two hasps instead of the handy thumb-screws.

Specifications

Carbon mass 365 g

Dimensions 12 x 12 cm

Carbon bed width 65 mm

Internal carbon surface 419750 m2

Carbon type Coconut shell virgin activated carbon flake

Ducting None - scrub application

Recommended air flow 105 CFM integrated fan

Weight 2.27 kg

Construction Metal / wood / cast aluminum

Sheet metal 24 g galvanized

Special treatments Inside/outside with preservative / waterproof coating

H.J.

Presenting Green Air Products’ 24-DT-1 24-Hour Dual Timer and 24-CT-1 24-Hour Timer with Cooling ThermostatThe 24-DT-1 features two independent 24-hour clock timers in one

housing. Each synchronous motor driven time switch has 96 non-

detachable 15 minute on\off trippers, a separate power cord and a

duplex outlet. Function indicator lights display outlet power mode.

Use for lighting, pumps, solenoids, relays, fans, etc. Each duplex

outlet offers 10 amp switching capacity at 120 VAC.

For the basics in garden room control, the

24-CT-1 combines a timed duplex

outlet with a thermostatically

controlled duplex outlet. Ideal

for operating lighting, CO2

equipment, watering systems,

fans, etc., the 24-CT-1 provides

a simple economical control

solution for small greenhouses

and indoor gardens. The internal

thermostat offers a 7 degree comfort zone and

the outlets operate independently – neither

defeating the other. Operates on 115 VAC with

12 amp switching.

Constructed with the same top quality components

and corrosion resistant black anodized chassis, like all Green Air

Products controllers, the 24-DT-1 and 24-CT-1 are built to last and

perform for years to come.

For more information on these or other Green Air Products

equipment, call (800) 669-2113 or visit www.greenair.com.

T.I.G.

Atami’s Root Aid Atami America is pleased to announce that its highly anticipated rooting gel has joined the B’Cuzz propagation product family.

B’Cuzz Root-Aid gel has been recently approved by the CFIA. This formulation has been designed specifically for the

retail hydroponics market. B’Cuzz Root Aid Gel combines both indole-3-butyric acid (IBA), naphthalene acetic

acid (NAA) and several proprietary inert compounds which make this gel the most advanced and effective

rooting product to be introduced to the retail hydroponics market. The combination of NAA and IBA will

ensure your cuttings root rapidly and, most importantly, a larger number of roots will be the ultimate result.

IBA as a stand alone rooting hormone will degrade over time and is light sensitive. Hormone levels will thus vary according to when the

product was manufactured and how long it has been stored at a retail outlet. The addition of NAA ensures stability so no matter when

gardeners purchase B’Cuzz Root-Aid Gel, they can be assured they will get the consistent hormone levels required to achieve maximum

performance. B’Cuzz Root Aid Gel is available in 2 oz, 4 oz and 8 oz. www.atami.com. D.M.


SHOPPING

Herb Science – Acme Series from 147 488 Canada Inc.An independent manufacturer who plays with the big boys!

Quality and price-wise, the products will surprise you and

you will find them a place with the big brand

products. The three-step Acme Series fertilizer

– a mixture of three parts, easy to use, enriched

with fulvic acid, pH-adjusted – is declined as

follows: Acme Micro, Acme Grow and Acme

Bloom.

Combined to Herb Science’s Miracle Thrive B-

1– a high-quality formula containing auxins,

cytokinins and other necessary hormones –

these three parts strengthen the plant’s immune

system to increase its resistance to stress, pests

and disease. They also stimulate and accelerate

the growth and flowering development. Add

Mag-I-Cal, also from the Acme Series, and

you can use it anywhere to obtain a nutritive

supplement that contains magnesium,

iron and calcium, prevent burns caused by

overfertilization, provide basic elements for

an improved chlorophyll and a strong stem, as

well as a foliar spray that is very efficient once

added to the nutrient mix.

I tested this product line with the Organa-Add

products (see below). The results I got were

breath-taking: 45 centimetres of growth in

two weeks with expanded clay pellets and

using the recipes on the containers. It is also

very satisfying in soil – child’s play, really.

D. Lesage

Higrocorp’s Organa-Add 2-0-0 and 0-2-0 Combiner Organa-Add replaces powder products: it is a liquid

product, environmentally friendly, that leaves no residue on

plants. It is even easier to measure

in this liquid form. Among its many

advantages, it maximizes flowering

and the production of large fruit,

increases the nutrient absorption

rate, increases the photosynthesis

process and favours an improved

growth of crops, all the while increasing the quantities of

essential oils produced.

Used in combination with a hydroponic, aeroponic or in soil

fertilization program, the product will not clog emitters,

pipes or pumps. As a foliar spray, it is efficient on cuttings

and through all the steps of growth. Organa-Add is made up

of a combination of hydrolized proteins and organic vitamins

and chelates – it is a heterocyclic mixture, meaning that it

favours the formation of bioactive molecules. The results

are surprising, especially when tested with Herb Science’s

three step program.

D. Lesage

Seramis® Natural Clay Pellets Seramis® Natural Clay pellets are made from first rate

natural clays. They are then baked

following our orignal patented process

and transformed into porous granules,

capable of retaining over 100% their

weight in water and of giving it back to

the plant according to its needs.

T.I.G.

Dr Doom FumigatorsTotal Release Fumigators, the only Pyrethrum-

based fumigator available in Canada. They are

made with 0.40 pyrethrin and 2.0% PBO. No

residue. Pyrethrum breaks down within hours

for quick re-entry time. A very affordable

alternative to an exterminator. High pressure

fumigator. One spraying kills exposed stages

of mosquitoes, ticks, fleas, cockroaches, ants,

spiders, and flies. 150 grams.

G.

Brio Watering Can A classic! This 1.5 litre watering can is made of hot dip

galvanized metal. It has a handle, a plastic rose

head and a galvanized watering mesh.

Offered models are round or

oval, with a galvanized finish

– either natural or tinted

green and varnished.

T.I.G.

Oxo Pot Gardening Tools These tools, stored in a big plastic basket,

have a nonslip handle. In the basket,

you will find, among

others, pruning shears

with a loop for your

finger, a graduated

trowel, etc. Order

on www.oxo.com.

T.I.G.

Photos: Herb Science, D

r. Doom

, Oxo &

D.R

.

Photos: House and G

arden Van De Zw

aan


SHOPPING

1-component soil nutrient Over the last few years, this top seller has generated a high degree of customer satisfaction. Because of its unique composition and easy to use formula, many customers think this nutrient is by far the best there is.

house and Garden aqua flakes A&B is a complete base nutrient designed for recirculating hydroponic systems. Because of its smart nutrient composition, the solution remains fresh and pure. This allows for optimal nutrient uptake, feeding after feeding.

multi enzyme

Multi Enzyme is an extremely useful growth stimulator. It accelerates and simplifies the growth process and strengthens the plant’s immunity. The enzymes convert the nutrient into ready-to-use bits, making them easy to assimilate.

shootinG powder

This sparkling Bud Expander is the absolute best in the field of flower-ing stimulators. It gives visible results, can be combined with all basic nutrients, is packed in handy sachets, is simple to use and has been extensively tested.

a&B coco nutrient Coco requires an extremely precise composition of the various minerals, something you can safely leave to House & Garden. As soon as it was released, this excellently balanced nutrient gathered a following of commercial gardeners, making it an important player on the coco market.

roots excelurator

This powerful root stimulator ensures the explosive growth of the roots and rids the plant of brown roots, root disease, and mould.

Bud xlBud XL has the unique ability to extract sugars from the leaf of the plant and to transfer them to the fruit. The fruit is thus made sweeter and its taste is improved. Bud XL also increases the size and robustness of the flowers, resulting in an increased fruit production and a greater turnover.

topBooster

Top Booster is an excellent flowering stimulator that acts on the basis of potassium, phosphorus and Eddha-Fe (iron). These elements are crucial during flowering: potassium at the beginning of the flowering stage and phosphorus for the proper development of fructification. The Eddha-Fe additive ensures a better coloring of the leaves.

maGic Green

Magic Green is a boost, admin-istered trough foliar feeding, for mother plants, rooted and unrooted slips and growing plants. It is absorbed directly by the leaves and brings back the plant’s dark green color and vitality. Magic Green is a gentle plant agent that works within two days.

a&B hydro nutrients (for drain to waste systems)The smart composition of the various elements provides commercial gardeners with the ideal means of ensuring an optimal nutrition to the plants both in the growth and flowering stages.

Canadian Sales: Frank Pohl, 604-716-2150US wholesaler: Humboldt Whole-sale, 707-840-9932www.house-garden.ca

F.P. & H.J.

a&B soil nutrient

Never before have nutrients and soil been so well attuned. The unique composition of the nutrient ensures that soil and nutrients are used to their full advantage, which gives the plant optimal strength during the growth and flowering periods.

House A nd Ga rden Va n De Zwaa n Ma kes Its Nor t h A mer ica n DebutYou too ca n now d iscover t he nut r ient s a nd st i mu la nt s made i n t he Net herla nds .


Q & A

Q Hi!

I have a decision to make this year. My supplier has recommended Heavy

Harvest Spring, Summer, Fall & Sensi Grow and Sensi Bloom. Which one

do you recommend and which one is the best? Also, I am looking for

a product which will increase the root mass (Power Thrive or 10-52-10

but more potent)? I only use Pro-Mix, without adding anything... I know

I should, but what? I’m looking for quantity.

Thanks and happy growing to all!

Éric.

A Hi Éric,

It sounds like your supplier is pushing Advanced Nutrients and doesn’t know

what he is selling. The Heavy Harvest line is a slow release that you use

outside once every 4 weeks. Sensi Grow and Sensi Bloom are to be used as

a constant feed, in every watering.

If you are growing in your backyard or somewhere close, where you can

have a 100L reservoir and see your plants every day or two, I say go with

the Sensi Grow and Bloom 2+ program! I know it’s a bit expensive but

take a look at the Sensi Pro kits; it’s the easiest way to use all of Advanced

Nutrients technology.

When you are growing somewhere that you can only get to once a week or

less, slow release is the only way to go!

On every package of Advanced Nutrients there is a 1-800 number. You

should give them a call. The tech guy is really good!

2) A very long time ago I came across an article on the world’s largest living

organism. It turned out to be a fungus living on the roots of oak trees. This

particular oak grove was 4 kilometres in diameter. These trees were bigger,

healthier and grew much faster than trees in other oak groves in the area. It

was because the microorganism had colonized the entire root mass of the

grove. The symbiotic relationship between the fungus and the oak roots

is that the fungus can metabolize more of the available nutrients than the

roots can, delivering the nutrients in a form that is available to the plant.

These are nutrients that were never available to the plant before the fungus

transformed them.

I thought, “where can I buy some”? But it was only about

ten years ago that I found my first beneficial fungus

product. It was “Myke” from Premier Tech. I use it on

every plant: all of my house plants, all of my crop plants,

anything I ever transplant. I won’t plant without it.

Advanced Nutrients has two very powerful beneficial

fungus and bacteria products, “Piranha” and “Tarantula”,

along with “Voodoo Juice”.

The first time you use any or all of these products you should see a 50-200%

increase in root mass.

3) There are so many different Pro-Mix products

that if you choose the right product you will not

need to add anything. There is a specific Pro-Mix

for every application that you can imagine. For growing indoors use Pro-Mix

VP (Very Porous). For growing outdoors or in dry areas, use Pro-Mix H2O or

the hanging basket mix, which has water retention crystals. There is even a

brand new formula, Pro-Mix SOG. But your supplier may be limited to the

general purpose Pro-Mix BX.

Do, do, do!

Fred

P.S.: Mycorrhizal fungi have occurred naturally in the soil for 400 million

years. They form a close symbiotic relationship with plant roots. They are

called mycorrhizae (from the Greek “mukés”, meaning fungus, and “rhiza,”

meaning roots). However, in most soils that have been disturbed by residential

construction or intensive cropping practices with applications of fertilizers

containing pesticides and other chemical products, the mycorrhizae content

has considerably diminished, and has become insufficient to significantly

enhance plant growth. When mycorrhizal fungi colonize the plant’s root

system, they create a network that increases the plant’s capacity to absorb

more water and nutrients such as phosphorus, copper and zinc. This process

in turn enhances growth and favors rapid development of roots and plants.

A Hi Éric,

I don’t know if you are growing indoors or out, in soil or hydro, but here’s

what I know about the products.

The Spring, Summer & Fall series is commonly used in soil outdoors and the

Sensi Grow & Bloom are usually used with hydroponic systems. I haven’t

worked with either of those products; I use General Hydroponics’ Flora Nova

Grow and Bloom series when working with soil and Herb Science Acme

Series in hydro and am quite satisfied with the results. The one thing I add

to both is Advanced Nutrients’ Tarantula for a thick healthy root mass - it’s

a bit expensive but totally worth it. I noticed mild changes within three days

of applying it and mind-blowing results by the end of the second week of

vegetation. The thing to remember with Tarantula is that it is live bacteria

and peroxide (H2O

2) will kill the bacteria, so if you use peroxide in your water

you’ll have to stop.

Kick Start by GroTek also works very well on seedlings

and cuttings to develop great roots. Healthy roots

lead to a healthy plant, and thus a healthy yield.

Pro-Mix has a base of mild nutrients in it and will

sustain plants for a while on its own, but if you are

looking for a good yield you should add some food

every second or third watering.

Take care and be kind to your plants.

Herb Gardner

ONE QU ESTION… T WO A NSW ERS!We return to the question and answer formula which was met with enthusiasm in our first issue. Keep sending us your questions at [email protected]. Our experts are awaiting them impatiently!

Phot

os: D

.R.,

Adv

ance

d N

utri

ents

& G

roTe

k

Question:

Why is Dutch loose fill coir considered better than domestic soldcoir, such as “Just Coir®” by Sun Gro Horticulture?

Choose One Answer:

1. Costs more.2. More expensive.3. Cool Dutch name – English translation = soakingour naïve customers who don’t know any better.4. Extra ocean freight from Sri Lanka to Hollandand then to North America. 5. ALL OF THE ABOVE.

Answer key: Answer is 5.

Sun Gro Horticulture’s “Just Coir” is the top selling bag of loose fillcoir in the Western U.S. Why? Because Sun Gro Horticulture’s highquality standards require that every incoming load of coir is tested,flushed for excess salts and then re-tested to ensure thatEC’s are low and then packaged in our 2.0 cu. ft bag allthe while complying with our OMRI listed standards.

You want more? Sure, since you are not paying for allthat freight and the fancy Dutch name, “Just Coir” is moreaffordable and it is OMRI listed. Our goal is to provideour customers with a great product at a fair price.

And if you want more, a great new product is our BlackGold Cocoblend® which is an OMRI listed blend of coirfiber, Canadian Sphagnum peat moss, earthworm cast-ings and pumice. It is the fastest growing soil mediabeing sold within the Emerald Triangle in California. It isa fantastic blend that provides optimum water retentionplus high aeration capacity with nature’s fertilizer –earthworm castings.

Sun Gro Horticulture providing quality growing mediaunder the Sunshine® and Black Gold® brands since1929.

Is proud to present its First Growing Media Lesson

Available exclusively at an independent retailer near you.Call Sun Gro Horticulture CRC 1-877-842-3256 for more information.

www.sungro.com

Distributed in the United States by SunGro Horticulture Distribution, Inc 15831NE 8th Street, Suite 100 Bellevue, WA98008 USADistributed in Canada by Sun GroHorticulture Canada Ltd. 52130 RR65,PO Box 189, Seba Beach, AB T0B 2B0Canada© 2006 Sun Gro Horticulture Canada Ltd.Sunshine and Sun Gro are registeredtrademarks of Sun Gro HorticultureCanada Ltd. All Rights Reserved. © 2006 Sun Gro Horticulture Canada Ltd.Sunshine and Sun Gro are registeredtrademarks of Sun Gro HorticultureCanada Ltd. Black Gold is a registeredtrademark of Odin Enterprises II LLC. AllRights Reserved.

Distributed in the United States by Sun Gro Horticulture Distribution, Inc 15831 NE 8th Street, Suite 100 Bellevue, WA 98008 USADistributed in Canada by Sun Gro Horticulture Canada Ltd. 52130 RR65, PO Box 189, Seba Beach, AB T0B 2B0 Canada

© 2006 Sun Gro Horticulture Canada Ltd. Sunshine and Sun Gro are registered trademarks of Sun Gro Horticulture Canada Ltd. All Rights Reserved. © 2006 Sun Gro Horticulture Canada Ltd. Sunshine and Sun Gro are registered trademarks of Sun Gro Horticulture Canada Ltd. Black Gold is a registered

trademark of Odin Enterprises II LLC. All Rights Reserved.

While 'better' is always asubjective term, BlackGold® and Sunshine®

brands have been provid-ing quality growing mediato the Professional Growerand Garden Enthusiastsince 1929. Good honestsoil, providing good honestresults has always beenour way of doing business.No tall tales, no bogusboasts

"Greatest Tall Tales Ever Told"

I am not a crook - Richard Nixon

I did not have sexualrelations with thatwoman, Ms. Lewinsky- Bill Clinton

Read my lips,No new taxes- George Bush

Our soil is better than

Black Gold - Frightened competitor

Black Gold® and Sunshine® growing media.Because the only thing taller than their tales are plants grown in our soil.

?

1-800-842-3256www.sungro.com

The Indoor Gardener Magazine Volume 2—Issue 1 (Reissue)

Documents

Transcript of The Indoor Gardener Magazine Volume 2—Issue 1 (Reissue)