THE INDEX · bought fashion online in the prior three months, this month, it is more than 50%. In...

THE

INDEXTHE

INDEXin partnership with

Part 1

The sectors, The Channels, The Formats and The Behaviours

Tracking the current behaviours and the future intentions of the British fashion shopper

I N PA R T N E R S H I P W I T H

MAY 2020

TheIndustry.fashion The Sectors, The Channels, The Formats and The Behaviours | Tracking the current behaviours and the future intentions of the British fashion shopper | 2

The Introduction

Given non-essential retail was closed in the UK from 23 March

to 15 June, 22 June and 29 June in England, Wales and Scotland

respectively, anyone wanting to buy fashion was obliged to

go online (only supermarkets with fashion offers and certain

branches of Marks & Spencer where a few essential items were

made available next to Food Halls offered any physical fashion

retail experience).

We quiz shoppers on how they have shopped over the past

THREE months so we will still pick up shoppers who have been

to stores in this survey, though as you will see this has been

diminished considerably. The big question for retailers clearly

will be whether shoppers will return to stores now that they are

open. Footfall has been up (in the second week after lockdown it

was up 7.7% week on week, according to BRC Shoppertrak) and

those shoppers who have made the effort to go out have had

clear buying intent.

However, as a separate question this month, we asked shoppers

whether they were ready to get back to the shops straight away,

or within the next month, with less than half (48%) saying they

would. Some 23% said they would not be expecting to return

until much later in the year with a similar number saying they

will not be back in the near future.

Clearly the mere ability to open stores is not enough to entice

customers back and with local lockdowns and job uncertainty

likely to be a feature of the rest of the year, retailers are in for

a rocky ride. In Part 2 of our study we will show you exactly

how 100 top names are performing and how they are perceived

by consumers.

Welcome to Part 1 of our major monthly study into the behaviours of the UK fashion shopper, The Index, produced in partnership with Klarna. In this study conducted just as non-essential retail was about to emerge from lockdown we get a view of how people had been shopping for fashion, and how their attitudes towards shopping for fashion have been affected, during the most extraordinary set of trading conditions of our generation.

ONLINE-ONLY RETAILER

HIGH STREET/ MAINSTREAM

FASHION RETAILER

VALUE STORE/ SUPERMARKET

SPORTS/ACTIVE RETAILER

PREMIUM FASHION RETAILER

LUXURY RETAILER

NONE OF THESE 0%

61%

43%

42%

32%

18%

8%


The Sectors

However, it’s clear that shoppers’ priorities were focused on

essential items as, last month when we asked the same question,

50% had bought clothes in value chains or supermarkets and

some 55% had been to the high street.

Now online has an 18 percentage point lead over its nearest rival,

the high street, compared to last month’s 4 percentage point

lead. Clearly this is not surprising, but as we discussed in the

introduction, the question is whether shopping behaviours have

been changed for good.

Consumers, and in particular those in the older age brackets,

had been the most reluctant to shop online in the past, preferring

physical stores. Now, as that age group is the most vulnerable to

COVID-19, the equation has been turned on its head.

Look at the table overleaf giving the age breakdowns of online

shoppers. Last month just 34% of over-65s told us they had

bought fashion online in the prior three months, this month, it is

more than 50%. In the 54-64 year age group, last month 43% said

they had bought fashion online, now that figure has risen to 56%.

Now they have experienced online shopping, will they go back?

When asked which type of fashion retailer they had visited in the past three months 61% of our consumers told us they had visited online-only retailers, while 43% had visited the high street and 42% had visited value stores or supermarkets. The latter had been able to offer clothing through its stores, which were still permitted to open during lockdown.

Which of the following have you shopped for fashion (including accessories and footwear) in the past 3 months?


The Sectors continued

35%

47%45% 45%

38% 39%40%44%

42% 43% 45%

38% 38%41%

44%

OV

ER

AL

L

MA

LE

FE

MA

LE

GENDER AGE REGIONS SEG

16-2

4

25

-34

35

-44

45

-54

55

-64

65

+

NO

RT

H

MID

LA

ND

S

SO

UT

H

LO

ND

ON

AB

C1

C2

DE

18%

22%

15%

21%

28%

22%

17%15%

10%

15%17% 17%

31%

22%

14%

OV

ER

AL

L

MA

LE

FE

MA

LE


16-2

4

25

-34

35

-44

45

-54

55

-64

65

+

NO

RT

H

MID

LA

ND

S

SO

UT

H

LO

ND

ON

AB

C1

C2

DE

Value store/supermarket (either online or in-store)e.g. George at Asda, Matalan, Primark

Premium fashion retailer (either online or in-store)e.g. Jigsaw, John Lewis, Ted Baker

61% 59%62%

67%70%

62% 62%56%

51%

61%57%

65% 63% 64%

57%

OV

ER

AL

L

MA

LE

FE

MA

LE


16-2

4

25

-34

35

-44

45

-54

55

-64

65

+

NO

RT

H

MID

LA

ND

S

SO

UT

H

LO

ND

ON

AB

C1

C2

DE

Online-only retailere.g. ASOS, Amazon, Boohoo

47%

37%40%

42%45% 46%48%

46%44%

37%

41% 41%38%

48%

43%

OV

ER

AL

L

FE

MA

LE

MA

LE


16-2

4

25

-34

35

-44

45

-54

55

-64

65

+

NO

RT

H

MID

LA

ND

S

SO

UT

H

LO

ND

ON

AB

C1

C2

DE

High street/mainstream fashion retailer (either online or in-store)e.g. Topshop, Marks & Spencer, Next


The Sectors continued

32%

49%

44%41%

29%27%

16%

35%

30%

39%

25%29%

31%33%

45%

OV

ER

AL

L

MA

LE

FE

MA

LE


16-2

4

25

-34

35

-44

45

-54

55

-64

65

+

NO

RT

H

MID

LA

ND

S

SO

UT

H

LO

ND

ON

AB

C1

C2

DE

12%

3%

5%

7%

8%

18%

16% 15%

11%

5%

3%2%

9%

7%8%

OV

ER

AL

L

MA

LE

FE

MA

LE


16-2

4

25

-34

35

-44

45

-54

55

-64

65

+

NO

RT

H

MID

LA

ND

S

SO

UT

H

LO

ND

ON

AB

C1

C2

DE

Sports/active retailer (either online or in-store)e.g. JD Sports, Sports Direct, Nike

Luxury retailer (either online or in-store)e.g. Net-A-Porter, Harvey Nichols, Selfridges


The Channels

We can see a dramatic shift in consumer behaviour when examining these charts. When it comes to how shoppers bought fashion in the past three months, some 63% went online only.

Clearly lack of choice has driven this behaviour but in the

six months leading up to COVID-19 these behaviours had barely

changed with somewhere in the region of 54% of consumers

buying via both physical and digital channels, now just 25%

did that with only 12% going in-store only.

When we look at preferences though, as opposed to actual

behaviour, retailers with stores have cause to be a little more

optimistic. In every age group, shopping in-store is by far their

preferred method for buying clothes, with millennials

(25-34 year olds) being the least enthusiastic.

However, with the in-store retail experience somewhat

compromised post-lockdown, it will be interesting to analyse in

the coming months whether those preferences shift. Clearly one

of the main benefits of shopping in-store is the ability to try an

item on. With many stores forced to close their fitting rooms or

offer them on a limited basis, one of physical retail’s key USPs

could be lost for the time-being.


The Channels continued

When shopping for fashion, which is your PREFERRED method?

Buying in-store

Buying online via desktop/laptop

Buying online via a tablet using a web browser

Buying online via a tablet using an app

Buying online via a smartphone using a web browser

Buying online via a smartphone using an app

Don’t know

KEY

54%

21%

6%

4%

7%

7%

OV

ER

AL

L

MA

LE

FE

MA

LE


16-2

4

25

-34

35

-44

45

-54

55

-64

65

+

NO

RT

H

MID

LA

ND

S

SO

UT

H

LO

ND

ON

AB

C1

C2

DE

54% 55% 52% 48%39%

49%56% 59%

65%58%

52% 54%45%

51%57%

21% 22%19% 23%

20%

19%

20%22%

22%

16%22% 22%

27%22%

19%

6%6%

7% 6%

7%

7%

6%6%

5%

5% 7% 5% 9% 7%6%

4%4%

4% 4%

5%

5%

4%3%

4% 4% 3% 6%4%

4%7% 6%

8%5%

15%10%

6%5%

7% 8% 7% 5%7% 7%

7% 6% 8% 13% 12% 9% 7% 7% 6% 7% 6% 8% 5%

When shopping for fashion in the past 3 months did you…

Buy online only

Buy in-store only

Buy both online and in-store

KEY

63%12%

25%

OV

ER

AL

L

MA

LE

FE

MA

LE


16-2

4

25

-34

35

-44

45

-54

55

-64

65

+

NO

RT

H

MID

LA

ND

S

SO

UT

H

LO

ND

ON

AB

C1

C2

DE

63%57%

70%59% 61% 59%

69%63% 65% 65% 63% 65%

56%62% 65%

12%15%

10%

8%9% 10%

11%16%

17%12% 13% 12%

11%10%

15%

25% 28%21%

33% 30% 31%20% 21% 17%

23% 24% 23%33% 28%

20%


The Formats

COVID is expected to lead to a shift in consumer preference away from shopping malls and city centres to locations with more open air and fewer shoppers in condensed areas with local high streets and retail parks set to benefit.

If you shop for fashion in a physical store, which location is your most preferred?

KEY

38%

38%

25%

OV

ER

AL

L

MA

LE

FE

MA

LE


16-2

4

25

-34

35

-44

45

-54

55

-64

65

+

NO

RT

H

MID

LA

ND

S

SO

UT

H

LO

ND

ON

AB

C1

C2

DE

38% 35%42%

30% 32%38% 42% 40% 43% 39%

33%43%

38% 36% 40%

38% 39%35% 57%

43%36%

35% 37% 26% 36%35%

36% 48%39%

36%

25% 26% 23%13%

26% 27% 22% 23%31%

26%32%

20%15%

25% 24%

High street

Shopping mall

Out of town retail park

Our figures show that in the space of a month retail parks have

grown in preference from 23% to 25% but, interestingly, the

appeal of shopping malls has increased from 34% to 38% while

high streets have dropped from 43% to 38%.

However delving behind the figures a bit more reveals a

generation gap. The shift in preference to malls is overwhelmingly

driven by younger consumers while older consumers are the ones

driving an overall modest shift in preference to retail parks. Last

month 27% of over 65s said they preferred retail parks while this

month that has increased to 31%. The shift in preference to retail

parks has also increased by 4 percentage points among 55-64

year olds.

Broadly speaking when it comes to the type of physical stores

shoppers prefer, there hasn’t been a great deal of movement,

except when it comes to supermarkets and this is interesting

because they have been the only physical locations that have

been able to offer clothing under lockdown.

Last month just 13% said they enjoyed shopping for clothes in

supermarkets the most, this month that has risen to 21%. As with

the shift in preference towards online and out of town retail parks,

could shoppers have discovered supermarkets’ fashion offers and

now realise the convenience of shopping there while buying food

and other household essentials? It will be interesting to see if the

shift remains permanent.


The Formats continued

Which type of fashion retailer, do you MOST prefer to shop at IN-STORE?

A chain store

A department store

A supermarket

An independent store

KEY

32%

32%

21%

16%

OV

ER

AL

L

MA

LE

FE

MA

LE


16-2

4

25

-34

35

-44

45

-54

55

-64

65

+

NO

RT

H

MID

LA

ND

S

SO

UT

H

LO

ND

ON

AB

C1

C2

DE

32% 32% 31% 30% 27%33% 28%

38%33% 31% 34% 30% 32% 32% 31%

32% 33% 31%26% 29%

33%33%

28% 40%33% 27% 35% 36% 32% 32%

21% 20% 21%

17%25%

21%21%

24% 16%21% 23% 21% 15% 17% 25%

16% 15% 16%28%

19%12% 17%

10% 11% 15% 16% 14% 17% 18%12%

Which type of fashion retailer do you MOST prefer to shop at ONLINE?

A chain store

A department store

A supermarket

An independent store

An online-only brand retailer

KEY

22%

21%

8%12%

36%

OV

ER

AL

L

MA

LE

FE

MA

LE


16-2

4

25

-34

35

-44

45

-54

55

-64

65

+

NO

RT

H

MID

LA

ND

S

SO

UT

H

LO

ND

ON

AB

C1

C2

DE

22% 20% 25% 22% 22% 19%24% 21% 25% 21% 24% 25%

19% 21% 24%

21% 22%20%

12% 16% 21%21% 27%

28%23% 21% 22%

17%20%

23%

8% 8% 7%

8%8%

10%9% 7%

5%

8% 8% 7%

8%7%

8%12% 12% 12%

11%14%

11% 8% 13%13%

13% 11% 11%

15%13%

11%

36% 38% 36%48%

41% 38% 37%32% 29%

35% 37% 35%42% 38% 34%


The Behaviours

Some 42% of shoppers said last month that they shopped for

fashion once a month or more, this month that has increased to

47%, which seems encouraging. However, when it comes to the

value and volume of clothes to be consumed over the coming

six months, the picture is less optimistic but still improved month

on month.

Some 51% of consumers over all will be buying MORE clothes in

the coming six months and almost three quarters of 16-24 year

olds will be doing so. Last month just 42% of consumers said they

would be buying more clothes.

But while consumers want more clothes, they want to spend less

on them with 44% saying they will spend more on clothing. With

stores currently discounting at the highest levels witnessed in

recent years to shift SS20 stock, it seems a very realistic ambition

for consumers to expect to be able to buy more clothes but pay

less for them.

Last month we had already seen a drop in the frequency of fashion shopping and the intention to buy, both in terms of value and volume, over the coming months. But we have seen some improvements this month as optimism clearly picked up in the face of lockdown lifting somewhat.


The Behaviours continued

Looking ahead at potential future fashion purchases in the coming six months, which best describes your intentions when it comes to the volume of the clothes you might purchase?

Intend to buy more fashion items

Intend to buy fewer fashion items

KEY

OV

ER

AL

L

MA

LE

FE

MA

LE


16-2

4

25

-34

35

-44

45

-54

55

-64

65

+

NO

RT

H

MID

LA

ND

S

SO

UT

H

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ON

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C1

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51% 55%48%

73% 68%61%

43% 40% 35%

51% 49% 50%62% 57%

45%

49% 45%52%

27% 32%39%

57% 60% 65%

49% 51% 50%38%

43%55%

51%49%

How often, typically, do you shop for fashion at the moment?

Once a week

One a month or more

Once every two months or more

Once every three months or more

Once every six months or more

Once a year or more

KEY11%

36%

23%

19%

9%

OV

ER

AL

L

MA

LE

FE

MA

LE


16-2

4

25

-34

35

-44

45

-54

55

-64

65

+

NO

RT

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SO

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H

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ON

AB

C1

C2

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11% 10% 12%19% 20%

12%7% 5% 5%

10% 10% 9%17% 13%

8%

36% 34%37%

48% 43%

41%

35%32%

26%

36% 34% 36%

39%39%

33%

23% 25%22%

20%21%

25%

24%28%

22%

21% 26% 24%

22%24%

23%

19% 18%19%

8% 13%15%

25%20%

27%

22% 17% 18%

16%17%

22%

9% 10% 7%4% 6% 9%

12%15%

9% 9% 10%5% 7%

11%

4% 5% 3% 4%


The Behaviours continued

Looking ahead at potential future fashion purchases in the coming six months, which best describes your intentions when it comes to the cost of the clothes you might purchase?

I intend to spend more on fashion items

I intend to spend less on fashion items

KEY

44%

56%

OV

ER

AL

L

MA

LE

FE

MA

LE


16-2

4

25

-34

35

-44

45

-54

55

-64

65

+

NO

RT

H

MID

LA

ND

S

SO

UT

H

LO

ND

ON

AB

C1

C2

DE

44% 49%38%

61% 57% 55%

36% 34% 30%43% 44% 39%

54%48%

38%

56%51%

62%

39% 43% 45%

64% 66% 70%57% 56% 61%

46% 52%62%


The Information

On behalf of TheIndustry.fashion, Savanta surveyed 2,000 UK consumers at the end of May

2020, all of whom had shopped for fashion in the previous three months. 49% of respondents

were male, 51% female. 18-24 year olds – 11%; 25-34 year olds – 19%; 35-44 year-olds – 17%;

45-54 year-olds – 17%; 55-64 year-olds – 13%, 65+ – 23%. Respondents were equally drawn

from key regions and professional backgrounds.

In Part 2 of The Index we will look at our 100 tracked brands and find out who’s shopping

them and how, plus we reveal our all-important Buzz Scores to reflect consumer sentiment.

If you would like to interrogate our data further (we have detailed breakdowns on each

answer and more information on categories of clothing shoppers buy for instance) or to

discuss bespoke research opportunities, please contact:

Antony Hawman

Chief Partnerships Officer

TheIndustry.fashion

[email protected]

020 3912 0002

For more information on Klarna, please visit:

www.klarna.com

THE INDEX · bought fashion online in the prior three months, this month, it is more than 50%. In...

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