The History of Pattern Woven Textiles Lecture 9.1.2015 Tuulia Lampinen, Doctoral candidate Aalto...
-
Upload
markus-jaggers -
Category
Documents
-
view
218 -
download
1
Transcript of The History of Pattern Woven Textiles Lecture 9.1.2015 Tuulia Lampinen, Doctoral candidate Aalto...
![Page 1: The History of Pattern Woven Textiles Lecture 9.1.2015 Tuulia Lampinen, Doctoral candidate Aalto University ARTS Department of Design Empirica research.](https://reader038.fdocuments.in/reader038/viewer/2022103004/56649cb75503460f9497c21a/html5/thumbnails/1.jpg)
The History of Pattern Woven TextilesLecture 9.1.2015
Tuulia Lampinen, Doctoral candidateAalto University ARTSDepartment of DesignEmpirica research group
![Page 2: The History of Pattern Woven Textiles Lecture 9.1.2015 Tuulia Lampinen, Doctoral candidate Aalto University ARTS Department of Design Empirica research.](https://reader038.fdocuments.in/reader038/viewer/2022103004/56649cb75503460f9497c21a/html5/thumbnails/2.jpg)
Technology, agriculture, trade
![Page 3: The History of Pattern Woven Textiles Lecture 9.1.2015 Tuulia Lampinen, Doctoral candidate Aalto University ARTS Department of Design Empirica research.](https://reader038.fdocuments.in/reader038/viewer/2022103004/56649cb75503460f9497c21a/html5/thumbnails/3.jpg)
Threads, yarns and cords
The Fishing Net of Antrea Bast of willow, circa. 8300 BCNational Museum of Finland
Stones AgesPaleolithic (2,6 million – 10.000 BC)
About 38.000 BC, La Quina, France
First findings of thread creations from vines, sinew and gut.
Mesolithic and Neolithic(12.000-5.500 BC) (9.000-2000 BC)
Toolmakers grasped the meaning of twisting. Materials: Bast from willow and linden, linen from flax and hemp, nettles and ramie, followed by cotton.
![Page 4: The History of Pattern Woven Textiles Lecture 9.1.2015 Tuulia Lampinen, Doctoral candidate Aalto University ARTS Department of Design Empirica research.](https://reader038.fdocuments.in/reader038/viewer/2022103004/56649cb75503460f9497c21a/html5/thumbnails/4.jpg)
Lenght of the fibre
- Flexible but inelastic- Lustrous- Strong- Impervious to water
At least 4000-3000 BC thread making was sophisticated.
![Page 5: The History of Pattern Woven Textiles Lecture 9.1.2015 Tuulia Lampinen, Doctoral candidate Aalto University ARTS Department of Design Empirica research.](https://reader038.fdocuments.in/reader038/viewer/2022103004/56649cb75503460f9497c21a/html5/thumbnails/5.jpg)
Twisting, looping and interlacing
![Page 6: The History of Pattern Woven Textiles Lecture 9.1.2015 Tuulia Lampinen, Doctoral candidate Aalto University ARTS Department of Design Empirica research.](https://reader038.fdocuments.in/reader038/viewer/2022103004/56649cb75503460f9497c21a/html5/thumbnails/6.jpg)
Warp-weighted, back strap and horizontal ground looms
![Page 7: The History of Pattern Woven Textiles Lecture 9.1.2015 Tuulia Lampinen, Doctoral candidate Aalto University ARTS Department of Design Empirica research.](https://reader038.fdocuments.in/reader038/viewer/2022103004/56649cb75503460f9497c21a/html5/thumbnails/7.jpg)
Densities, widhts and eveness
![Page 8: The History of Pattern Woven Textiles Lecture 9.1.2015 Tuulia Lampinen, Doctoral candidate Aalto University ARTS Department of Design Empirica research.](https://reader038.fdocuments.in/reader038/viewer/2022103004/56649cb75503460f9497c21a/html5/thumbnails/8.jpg)
How to get towards today?
Group work: Search with the keywords 2-4 pictures of characteristic fabrics. Take a few notes of each.1. Medallion, Antinoe, Egypt2. Hunting scenes, Byzantium3. Persian, Safavid, Lampas4. Damasc, Velvet, Alto-basso, Italy, Spain 5. Brocade, Gold6. Pomegranade, Tulip, Cintamani
![Page 9: The History of Pattern Woven Textiles Lecture 9.1.2015 Tuulia Lampinen, Doctoral candidate Aalto University ARTS Department of Design Empirica research.](https://reader038.fdocuments.in/reader038/viewer/2022103004/56649cb75503460f9497c21a/html5/thumbnails/9.jpg)
Repeats, warps and wefts Suaire de Saint Victor, martyr Perse
VIII century, Cathedral of Sens, France2 warps: 34-39ends/cm1 ground, 1 bindning
4 wefts: 160-180 picks/cmBeige, yellow, blue, white
To econimise a gesture:Every 4th shuttle is not let off from hand. Change in colour order can cause a small defect in the jonction of two colours.
![Page 10: The History of Pattern Woven Textiles Lecture 9.1.2015 Tuulia Lampinen, Doctoral candidate Aalto University ARTS Department of Design Empirica research.](https://reader038.fdocuments.in/reader038/viewer/2022103004/56649cb75503460f9497c21a/html5/thumbnails/10.jpg)
BrocadeSupplementary patterning shuttles that work only in small parts
of the widht of the fabric.
![Page 11: The History of Pattern Woven Textiles Lecture 9.1.2015 Tuulia Lampinen, Doctoral candidate Aalto University ARTS Department of Design Empirica research.](https://reader038.fdocuments.in/reader038/viewer/2022103004/56649cb75503460f9497c21a/html5/thumbnails/11.jpg)
France, Lyon 17th-19th centuryc.1606 - Loom à la Grande Tire, c.1606, Claude Dangon, MilanIn use X-XIX centuries. Simple with separate cords and drawboy.
1687 - Loom à la Petit Tire/ au boutons, Galantier et Blache, AvignonIn use until XVIII century.Simple with a button at the end of cord. Designs with small repeats, for example 84 buttons.
1725 - Loom of Basile Bouchon, LyonFirst one to work with hooks and blades towards continuous perforated paper. Only one row of blades and all weaving face down.
1728-1734 - Loom of Falcon, LyonFour times more blades than in Loom of Bouchon. Rectangular cardboard pieces that where laced together.
c.1744 – Loom with the mechanique of Vaucanson, FranceInvention of an arm to hold the beater so that the shuttle can pass more automatically. Still the using the simple with the drawboy.
![Page 12: The History of Pattern Woven Textiles Lecture 9.1.2015 Tuulia Lampinen, Doctoral candidate Aalto University ARTS Department of Design Empirica research.](https://reader038.fdocuments.in/reader038/viewer/2022103004/56649cb75503460f9497c21a/html5/thumbnails/12.jpg)
Drawloom
![Page 13: The History of Pattern Woven Textiles Lecture 9.1.2015 Tuulia Lampinen, Doctoral candidate Aalto University ARTS Department of Design Empirica research.](https://reader038.fdocuments.in/reader038/viewer/2022103004/56649cb75503460f9497c21a/html5/thumbnails/13.jpg)
Warps and Wefts- Main warp or ground warp is constructing the basic structure of the fabric.- Bindning warp is bindning the patterning wefts.- Pile warp is making the cut or uncut loops of velvet.- Slushing warp is a decorative element where floats of warp are seen on top of the fabric
- Liseré weft is constructing the ground weave from selvedge to selvedge.- Lancé weft is going from selvedge to selvedge but not taking part in the ground weave.- Broché weft is always supplementary and making only small parts of the fabric.
![Page 14: The History of Pattern Woven Textiles Lecture 9.1.2015 Tuulia Lampinen, Doctoral candidate Aalto University ARTS Department of Design Empirica research.](https://reader038.fdocuments.in/reader038/viewer/2022103004/56649cb75503460f9497c21a/html5/thumbnails/14.jpg)
1804 Loom with Jacquard machineJoseph-Marie Jacquard(1792-1834)On top of previous Lyonnaise inventions he promoted `lantern´ which made possible the square `cylinder´ to turn ¼ at the time. No need for a drawboy! Later Breton and Skola made some improvements to the machine. In 1984-1988 and early 1990 the cards where replaced with computer floppies in part of the machines and in 2000 the most of the looms are in direct connection to computers.
![Page 15: The History of Pattern Woven Textiles Lecture 9.1.2015 Tuulia Lampinen, Doctoral candidate Aalto University ARTS Department of Design Empirica research.](https://reader038.fdocuments.in/reader038/viewer/2022103004/56649cb75503460f9497c21a/html5/thumbnails/15.jpg)
Added dia of loop fabricsStructure of terry cloth: -blue, red and green are warps- round grey balls weft
Structure of a weft velveteen, in this case called corduroy:-white and black `spagetti´are wefts-white balls are warp ends.