The Gainsborough hotel in Bath

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Sep 16 2015 at 12:15 AM Updated Sep 16 2015 at 12:15 AM

The Gainsborough hotel in Bath makes communal bathing coolagain

By the end of last century, the tourist appeal of Bath's mysterious hot

springs had evaporated. Now the city's Roman heritage is coming

back to life, writes Robert Bevan.

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The Gainsbor ough Bath Spa's private, mineral-rich spring water supply bubbles in at 47 degrees.

by Robert Bevan

The much-delay ed opening of the Gainsborough Bath Spa hotel this northern

summer crowns a remarkable turnaround for the English spa resort of Bath. Housed

in a former hospital turned art school (the hotel is named for the painter Thomas

Gainsborough), the luxurious 99-room venue is unique in having bubbling hot spring

waters feeding its own private spa complex.

Bath was in a sorry state during the aftermath of World War II. During the Baedeker

Blitz, German bombers had targeted its magni!cent stone crescents and squares in

revenge for Allied attacks on historic German cities.

Even before then it had been in long-term genteel decline – no longer a place where,

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between regimental balls and promenades, fashionable Georgians took a dip in its

healing pools, the ladies sewing lead weights into the hem of their muslin frocks to

prevent a glimpse of something shocking.

While spa towns on the Continent retained their appeal, Brits took off to the Costa del

Sol in Spain on newly affordable package holidays. English spa towns such as Bath

were left behind as provincial retreats for elderly invalids looking to ease their painful

bones. Wheelchairs with carefully tucked tartan blankets bumped along the

pavements, supplanting leisurely carriage drives, elegant quadrilles and boating

jaunts along the River Avon.

Until the Gainsborough opened there was nowhere within Bath that aspired to the grand hotels found at the

thermal spa resorts of Europe.

A further blow to Bath came from below in 1978, when the deadly Naegleria fowleri

amoeba infected its main spring and a young swimmer died. Visitors were warned not

to touch the water, never mind drink it or bathe in it.

Bath might have become a tourist magnet, world famous for its architecture and a

UNESCO World Heritage Site. But its very raison d'être – the only hot springs in Britain

whose mysterious, bubbling waters had spooked the Celts and so entranced the

Roman invaders that they built a huge temple to the local watery goddess Sulis

Minerva and the tallest structure in Roman Britain as its bathhouse – had evaporated.

GRAND ASPIRATIONS

At the beginning of this century, determined efforts began to turn this situation

around. Its geology was scoured and new boreholes drilled to tap safe, amoeba-free

water and the magni!cent ruins of the Roman baths were furnished with a

fascinating underground museum.

John Lewis Radar 4-SeaterDrop-Leaf Dining Table

£450

A d v er t i s em en t

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3/5



One of the Gainsborough Bath Spa's 11 treatment rooms.

The 18th-century Cross Bath and Hot Bath pools were renovated and the hi-techThermae Bath Spa built adjacent by architect Nicholas Grimshaw (whose practice

also designed Melbourne's Southern Cross station). The Thermae offers

contemporary treatments as well as panoramas from a rooftop swimming pool across

the city skyline to the surrounding wooded hills in which Bath nestles, picturesquely.

It was pure rainfall on these hills 10,000 years ago that gushes up to feed the springs

today.

Until the Gainsborough opened as part of the YTL group and as a member of The

Leading Hotels of the World, across the street from the Thermae, there was nowhere

within the city that aspired to the grand hotels found at the thermal spa resorts of

Switzerland, Italy and Germany.

Its small bar, specialising in a magni!cent !zz of gin cocktails, is next to the hotel's

top-"ight restaurant, Johann Lafer at the Gainsborough, established by Lafer, a

Michelin-starred Austrian celebrity chef. It makes a welcome change from the thick-

pastried West Country pasties that seem to make up the bulk of most tourists' diet.

Despite excellent dishes and local produce including superb English cheeses, Lafer's

signature Asian notes and some rather elegant but stiff hotel interiors by US

designers mean the Gainsborough does miss a trick in not elaborating on Bath's

quintessentially English character.

But there is no denying the quality of the menu or of its rooms (from £285, room only)

with their burlwood cabinetry and marble bathrooms. Some rooms have views over

the rooftop bathers at the Thermae, others over the glass-roofed pool of the hotel's

Spa Village.

Here, the hotel's private, mineral-rich spring water supply bubbles in at 47 degrees. It

needs to be cooled a little before it can be enjoyed on a bathhouse "circuit" among the

faux-classical columns that mark your progress through three thermal pools, saunas

and steam rooms and an alcove where lavender-scented ice for a rub down pours

from the mouth of a stone lion.


4/5



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The aim is to recreate something of the ancient Roman art of bathing, but without

water made scummy by scraping strigils. There are 11 treatment rooms and three

suites where the spa water is piped direct to private baths.

HEALING POWERS

In another nod to tradition, the hotel's opening-day takings were donated to the Order

of St John of Jerusalem, which has been tending Bath's ill and indigent from a historic

muddle of buildings nearby since 1174.

When the monks arrived in Bath and established their abbey, the Roman temple and

bath buildings had long collapsed, vanishing almost into oblivion – the sacred spring

left to bubble from a swamp before a new enclosure for it was built within their

monastery. Elizabeth I granted responsibility for the healing waters to the city in a

charter of 1591 and in the following century its fortunes began to "ow once more.

It was not until the 18th century that archaeological digs began to properly unearth

the classical splendour of the Roman pilgrimage town of Aquae Sulis and the elegantsunken neoclassical cloister crowned with statues of Roman emperors and governors

enclosing the Great Bath was begun. The Georgian Pump Room above also survives

for drinking the mineral-rich water (or for taking afternoon tea, if you prefer).

Now that its spa hotel is in place, funds have recently been allocated towards Bath's

next task: the restoration of the Cleveland Pools, a unique Regency lido set among

trees and !elds on the edge of the city that fell into decay and closed in the 1980s.

Soon, hopefully, you will once more be able to glide to the pools from the centre by

boat.

After waxing and waning more than once, the most beautiful city in England has its

original purpose back.

The author was a guest of the hotel and The Leading Hotels of the World.

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5/5



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The Gainsborough hotel in Bath

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