BUYING THE PERFECT

ENGAGEMENT RING

the definitive guide to

M A K E I T M E A N M O R E

CONTENTS

INTRODUCTION 1

GETTING STARTED 3

RING STYLES 8

DESIGN YOUR RING 18

DIAMONDS 21

GEMSTONES 30

PRECIOUS METALS 37

CARING FOR YOUR RING 41

ETHICAL SOURCING 43

Planning on popping the big question? Congratulations! Now that you’ve made one of life’s biggest decisions, your next step will be to find the perfect engagement ring. But where do you begin? With so many different factors to consider, it can be difficult to know where to start.

For more than a decade, Ingle & Rhode has helped thousands of couples find their perfect engagement ring. Now, we’re passing

on our knowledge to you through this comprehensive guide. Combining expert advice with years of experience, we’ve included answers to all the most important questions.

We hope that you’ll find this both informative and enjoyable. If you have any questions at all, please feel free to give us a call on 020 7499 2012 or drop us an email at enquiries@ingleandrhode.com.

INTRODUCTION

ABOUT THE AUTHORS

When searching for an engagement ring in 2006, Ingle & Rhode co-founder David Rhode was unable to find a jeweller who could tell him where any of their diamonds came from or under what conditions they were produced. The more David searched for a ring, the more he discovered about blood diamonds, dirty gold and child labour. Wanting to make a change, David and his friend Tim Ingle decided to create a truly ethical fine jewellery brand as an alternative to traditional out-of-touch luxury brands.

TOGETHER, DAVID AND TIM LAUNCHED A PIONEERING FINE JEWELLERY BUSINESS THAT HELPS TO REDUCE ENVIRONMENTAL DAMAGE, ENSURE HIGH STANDARDS OF HEALTH AND SAFETY AND FAIR PAY FOR MINERS, AND SOURCES ONLY CONFLICT-FREE, TRACEABLE DIAMONDS AND GEMSTONES.

Each and every piece of jewellery we’ve created has been made in the UK, and all of our materials can be traced back to their source; from our Canadian diamonds to our Fairtrade gold and recycled platinum.

Our clients come from all walks of life, but whatever their background or budget, they all share the same desire – to choose a high-quality piece of jewellery without compromising on their ethical, social and environmental beliefs.

We continue to lead the way as an ethical fine jewellery brand and have been named by Vogue as,

“one of London’s number one jewellery destinations.”

Find out more about our ethical sourcing policies in chapter eight.

Tim Ingle & David Rhode, Co-Founders of Ingle & Rhode

WE’VE CREATED THOUSANDS

OF ENGAGEMENT RINGS USING

ONLY ETHICALLY SOURCED,

TRACEABLE PRECIOUS METALS

AND GEMS.

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CHAPTER ONE

GETTING STARTED

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We commissioned a survey of 500 women who had just got engaged and asked them if their preference would be to select their own engagement ring. Of those whose partner chose the ring for them, nearly three-quarters said it was the right thing to do. The good news is, from that same group, nearly 90% said were happy with the ring.

If you’re unsure about what type of engagement ring your partner would like, there are three steps you can take to help spark inspiration.

1. REMEMBER, IT’S ALL ABOUT HER

It’s easy to get caught up in the buying process, but your fiancée-to-be will be the one wearing the ring for the rest of her life. Make sure you keep her at the front of your mind every step of the way.

2. LOOK FOR CLUES IN WHAT SHE OWNS

Think about her personal style and the clothes she wears. Does she prefer to keep things practical or is she more modern? If you’re still not sure, have a look in her jewellery box. If an engagement ring clashes with her current jewellery, then it’s probably not the right one.

3. ASK A FRIEND OR A FAMILY MEMBER

This can be tricky as you run the risk of her nearest and dearests ruining the surprise. If you do feel that you can trust them to keep your secret, getting a second opinion can help to give you an extra boost of confidence and keep you on the right track.

If you’re still uncertain, then your best option is to check if you can exchange or refund the ring if she doesn’t like it. Most good jewellers will offer a 30-day returns policy on rings from their collection. Just make sure you know their terms and conditions before you buy. Custom-made rings are generally not exchangeable or refundable, so you need to be fairly confident before deciding to go down this route.

THREE SIMPLE STEPS TO GETTING IT RIGHT

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Some people will tell you that you should spend between one- and three-months’ salary on an engagement ring. However, rather than focusing on a multiple of salary, we recommend that you think about what’s affordable for you.

IN A RECENT SURVEY, WE FOUND THAT

40% OF MEN IN LONDON SPEND BETWEEN

ONE- AND TWO-MONTHS’ SALARY,

COMPARED TO 33% IN SCOTLAND AND

NORTHERN IRELAND. IN SOME PARTS OF

THE UK, SIGNIFICANT NUMBERS OF MEN

SPEND LESS THAN A FORTNIGHT’S SALARY.

You should budget enough so you can buy a ring you really like, but you shouldn’t spend so much that it impacts on your overall quality of life. It isn’t always the case that bigger is better. It’s far more thoughtful to invest time and effort into thinking about what she would really like, instead of just spending a large amount of money.

HOW MUCH SHOULD I SPEND ON THE RING?

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HOW CAN I MAKE SURE I GET

THE SIZE RIGHT?

Unless you ask her to have her finger measured, or you already know her size, then you may not be able to get her ring size 100% right. But this isn’t necessarily a problem.

One thing you can do is borrow a ring from her jewellery box and get it measured. Just try to remember which finger you’ve seen her wear it on.

If it’s the fourth finger of the right hand, then it’s likely to be accurate within a size or so for her engagement finger. If it’s a ring she wears on her middle finger, then it’s likely to be between one and four sizes too big for her engagement finger.

Most engagement rings will likely need resizing after the proposal, but this isn’t an issue and usually only takes a few days. At Ingle & Rhode, we offer a complimentary resize.

It’s worth being cautious if you’re thinking of choosing a ring with diamonds all the way round the band. These are harder to resize.

For some people, a ring that is big enough to pass over their knuckle is too big once it is actually in place on their finger (i.e. it feels loose except over the knuckle) The best solution for this is to add sizing beads (small ‘domes’ of gold or platinum) to the inside of the ring. This allows the ring to pass over the knuckle, but stops it from feeling loose once it’s on.

If you can borrow your partner’s ring and bring it in, we can measure it for you. If that’s not possible, use our sizing chart on the next page to estimate the size. UK ring sizes run from A (the smallest) to Z (the largest).

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RING SIZING CHART

This ring sizing chart is intended to help you obtain an estimate of the size of a ring, but for the greatest accuracy, please have a ring or your finger measured by a member of the Ingle & Rhode team.

1. Print at 100%. Make sure you do not select the ‘scale to fit page’ or ‘shrink to fit page’ options.

2. Place the ring over the circles below. Ideally, the ring should be of a similar width and style to the one you wish to purchase.

3. The ring’s size corresponds approximately to the letter in the smallest circle that completely fills the inside of the ring.

Ring Sizing Chart

This ring sizing chart is intended to help you obtain an estimate of the size of a ring, but for the greatest accuracy, please have a ring or your finger measured by a member of the Ingle & Rhode team.

1.

2.

3.

4.

Print at 100%. Make sure you do not select the ‘scale to fit page’ or ‘shrink to fit page’ options.

Check print size.This line should measure 10cm

Place the ring over the circles below. Ideally, the ring should be of a similar width and style to the one you wish to purchase.

The ring’s size corresponds approximately to the letter in the smallest circle that completely fills the inside of the ring.

www.ingleandrhode.co.uk020 7499 201214 Gees Court, London W1U 1JW

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Instructions

CHECK PRINT SIZE. THIS LINE SHOULD MEASURE 10 CM.

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CHAPTER TWO

RING STYLES

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There are many different engagement ring styles to choose from. From understated solitaires to beautiful trilogies, elaborate vintage styles and more, the options are endless.

Having such a vast amount of choice can be great, but it can also be a little daunting.

A good place to start is to think about what would best suit her personality. Ask yourself what her individual style is like. Is she classic or modern? Romantic or glamorous? Or maybe she likes all things minimalistic?

You should also give some thought to her lifestyle. Is she quite active or a little more laidback? It’s important to make sure that the ring will fit into her routine and won’t get in the way of her daily activities.

To help simplify the process, we’ve narrowed down the selection to five groups. By cutting down a vast amount of options, you can focus your search and avoid being overwhelmed by all the possibilities.

WHAT STYLE OF RING SHOULD YOU CHOOSE?

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Solitaire (1ct Serenade Ring)

WITH A STRIPPED BACK, SIMPLE DESIGN LIKE

A SOLITAIRE, A GOOD QUALITY DIAMOND IS

ESSENTIAL, SO IT’S WORTH TAKING THE TIME

TO CHOOSE THE RIGHT STONE.

FIND OUT MORE ABOUT CHOOSING A

DIAMOND IN CHAPTER 4.

SOLITAIRE

CLASSIC AND ELEGANT

Simple but striking, the solitaire is the most timeless of all engagement rings. It’s also the most popular.

Set with a single gemstone, a solitaire could be the perfect match for your partner if she has an elegant and understated style. Not only is a solitaire a true classic, but it works well with nearly all sizes and shapes of stones. It’s also unlikely to clash with any other jewellery she has or any of her favourite clothes.

It’s also important to choose the right gem size. Typically, a larger finger is flattered by a slightly wider band but may require a bigger stone for it to remain in proportion. For slim fingers, a dainty band might be better suited and will work well with a smaller gem.

HOW MANY CLAWS SHOULD A RING HAVE?

If you choose a claw-set solitaire, you will need to decide how many claws you would like it to have. Here’s what we recommend:

Four claws This will give a round brilliant cut diamond a square appearance.

Six claws This will emphasise a round brilliant cut diamond’s roundness.

Eight claws This number of claws will create a more vintage look.

You can find out more about setting types later in this chapter.

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Trilogy (Sapphire Trio Ring)

TRILOGY DESIGNS TEND TO WORK BEST IF YOU

COMBINE STRAIGHT-EDGED SHAPES WITH OTHER

STRAIGHT-EDGED SHAPES, WHILE ROUNDED SHAPES

WORK WELL WITH OTHER ROUNDED SHAPES.

SO, AN OVAL GEMSTONE FLANKED BY TWO SMALLER

ROUND STONES WOULD WORK QUITE NICELY.

TRILOGY OR THREE-STONE

TIMELESS AND STYLISH

Like the solitaire, the trilogy engagement ring is another timeless classic. As the name suggests, it features three stones, with the central stone usually being the largest.

This configuration is said to represent your past, present and future. The trilogy style has grown in popularity due to the media coverage of Meghan Markle’s engagement ring.

It’s also a versatile choice as you can combine diamonds with coloured gemstones, such as rubies, sapphires or emeralds.

The trilogy ring would best complement someone who loves a timeless look with a twist. You could keep things traditional with three round diamonds or opt for a more contemporary feel with three emerald cut stones.

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AN EDWARDIAN STYLE RING OFFERS

A SOFT VINTAGE FEEL WITH MORE

DELICATE SETTINGS INSPIRED BY NATURE,

WHILST VICTORIAN STYLE ENGAGEMENT

RINGS CAN BE QUITE EXTRAVAGANT

WITH OPULENT DETAILING AND

ELABORATE SETTINGS.

VINTAGE

SOPHISTICATED AND ROMANTIC

If your fiancée-to-be is a true romantic at heart or has a retro-inspired look, she may be dreaming of a vintage style engagement ring. Antique designs can be truly unique and ornate, whilst evoking the elegance of a by-gone era.

An heirloom design can feature various intricate details, such as delicate filigree, milgrain effects or scrollwork patterns. Many antique-style rings can also be embellished with hand engraving, pavé diamond accents or opulently adorned halos for added charm.

Vintage (Oval Diamond Pavane Ring)

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Art Deco (Bellecanto Ring)

ART DECO

ELEGANT AND ECLECTIC

If your fiancée-to-be has an affinity for all things sophisticated, then an Art Deco style ring may be the perfect choice.

The ‘Roaring Twenties’ saw the rise of the Art Deco Movement and the rejection of the extravagant styles of the Victorian and Edwardian eras. Instead, jewellery designers favoured sleeker creations that exuded glamour and opulence.

From geometric configurations to fanned motifs and abstract shapes, Art Deco designs tend to boast straight edges and bold lines. They often combine diamonds with coloured gemstones too.

IF YOU’RE BUYING AN ART DECO

STYLE RING AS A SURPRISE, MAKE

SURE YOU REALLY THINK ABOUT

YOUR PARTNER’S STYLE AS IT CAN

BE QUITE A SPECIFIC TASTE.

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‘Starry Night’ bespoke ring

IF YOU’RE STRUGGLING TO FIND INSPIRATION,

OUR HIGHLY SKILLED DESIGNERS CAN

WORK WITH YOU TO CREATE SOMETHING

TRULY UNIQUE. OR IF YOU ALREADY HAVE

SOMETHING IN MIND, THEY CAN HELP YOU

BRING YOUR VISION TO LIFE.

BESPOKE

COMPLETELY UNIQUE

Although a classic solitaire or trilogy can be beautiful, a traditional ring isn’t to everyone’s tastes. If your partner has a completely individual style, then she may prefer something more alternative to reflect her one-of-a-kind personality.

Whether it’s a rare gemstone or unconventional shapes, a bespoke piece can be created to suit any fiancée-to-be.

If you’re struggling for inspiration, just look around you – the opportunities are endless. From her favourite work of art to her most treasured travelling experience or even a coveted item of clothing from her wardrobe, a spark of imagination and a wave of creativity can be drawn from almost anywhere.

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SELECTING A SETTING STYLE

Another important decision to make when choosing an engagement ring is selecting the setting. There are advantages and disadvantages to each setting, so it’s important to consider style and lifestyle when making this choice.

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CLAW SETTING

WHAT IS IT? This setting consists of the stones being held in place by metal claws, usually four to six

PROSThe claws can help to emphasise the diamond and create a classic, elegant design.

CONSThis setting is very popular and can look similar to other rings.

BEZEL SETTING

WHAT IS IT?A border of metal wrapped around the diamond.

PROSThe stone is kept secure and protected. This is an especially good choice if your partner has an active lifestyle.

CONSThis setting’s distinctive look is not to everyone’s taste.

Bezel Setting (Minuetto Ring)

Claw Setting (1ct Serenade Ring)

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TENSION SETTING

WHAT IS IT?The way the metal is crafted uses tension or pressure between two ends of the band to hold the stone in place.

PROSClean, elegant and modern look with a large proportion of the diamond on display.

CONSThe diamond may be less secure than other settings.

CLUSTER SETTING

WHAT IS IT?Instead of single stone, a cluster uses several stones together.

PROSThis style can give the illusion of a bigger diamond.

CONSCluster settings have a vintage feel, which may not appeal to everyone.

PAVÉ SETTING

WHAT IS ITThis setting features small diamonds which are set in the band or around the main diamond.

PROSWorks well if you like a more extravagant and opulent look.

CONSResizing can be difficult if the ring is pavé set around a significant proportion of the band.

Tension Setting (Enigma Ring)

Pavé Setting (La Stravaganza Ring)

Cluster Setting (Primavera Ring)

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CHAPTER THREE

DESIGN YOUR RING

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THE BESPOKE EXPERIENCE

If you can’t find something from an existing collection, then why not consider going bespoke? From the initial design process to hand-finishing touches, our talented designers and expert craftsmen and women can help you to create a beautifully ethical ring that’s unique to you.

Find out more at www.ingleandrhode.co.uk/bespoke/experience

THREE REASONS TO DESIGN A BESPOKE RING

• Make something wholly personal to your partner.

• Create a one-of-a kind ring.

• Work one-to-one with our design team who will sketch your designs and advise on the diamonds, gemstones and metals required to create your bespoke ring.

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ONE CLIENT’S BESPOKE

EXPERIENCE

One client told us that his girlfriend’s favourite artwork is Vincent Van Gogh’s ‘Starry Night’, and that this should be the inspiration for her engagement ring.

It was an intriguing idea, and it would require a bit of work to translate this raw concept into a design.

The first step was for us to pencil sketch a couple of possibilities to show to the client, and fortunately we were able to come back to him quickly with a configuration that he liked.

Next, we needed to find a central diamond to work within this design. Having made many ‘swirl’ style engagement rings, we knew that a central diamond of between 0.3ct and 0.5ct could work well, and arranged to show the client a selection to choose from. Once he’d picked one, we went on to model the ring in 3D virtual space, using Computer Aided Design software (CAD).

The CAD design process went through a couple of iterations before the client was fully satisfied, and we went on to make the actual ring. When our client proposed, his partner was overwhelmed and thrilled to receive something so unique and special.

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CHAPTER FOUR

DIAMONDS

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THE FOUR C’S

Before you buy a diamond, you’ll need to familiarise yourself with the four Cs: colour, clarity, carat and cut. These four factors will have a major impact on how the diamond appears to your eye. The four Cs also influence how valuable a diamond is. A gemologist will assess a diamond on these four parameters and will issue it with a certificate confirming the diamond’s grades.

To ensure you choose the right diamond for your engagement ring, it’s important that you understand and recognise the differences in diamond quality.

1. CARAT

A carat (ct) is the unit used to measure a diamond’s weight. One carat equals 0.2 grams. As carat weight increases, the value of a diamond increases exponentially. For example, a 1ct stone will cost more than twice as much as two 0.5ct stones of the same quality.

2. COLOUR

Diamonds are usually colourless or near colourless (some may be slightly yellow). The less colour the diamond has, the more valuable and rare it is.

The grading of colour is alphabetical starting at D (completely colourless) down to Z (very strongly tinted). The differences between the premium grades (D–G) are very subtle, but you may notice an increase in colour below an H. Where budget allows, we recommend choosing G colour or better.

You can also consider ‘fancy coloured’ diamonds, which include yellow, pink and blue diamonds.

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3. CLARITY

Almost all diamonds will have some form of imperfection. This can include natural blemishes on their surface and inclusions within their crystal structure. These imperfections have names such as clouds, feathers, and needles, which describe their appearance under magnification. A diamond with few or no inclusions will have greater clarity and, in turn, be more valuable and rarer.

The grading of clarity ranges from FL (flawless), meaning the diamond has inclusions or surface blemishes that are visible at 10x magnification, all the way down to I1, I2 and I3 (included).

A VS2 graded diamond or higher is usually a good choice as it shouldn’t have any visible inclusions. Stones graded SI1 or below may not be ‘clean’ to the naked eye. The diamond may appear clean initially, but inclusions can become visible later when the diamond loses its cleanliness through everyday wear. Although the diamond can be cleaned to restore its brilliance, you can’t necessarily un-see an inclusion.

4. CUT

The cut of a diamond refers to the stone’s proportions, polish and symmetry which are graded on a scale from poor to excellent. It’s worth insisting on a stone with premium cut grades. A diamond which has been cut correctly will sparkle brighter and appear more brilliant.

Find out more about the four Cs at www.ingleandrhode.co.uk/the-4cs

CONFLICT-FREE AND TRACEABLE

At Ingle & Rhode we believe in a fifth C:

Conflict-free.

We only source ethical diamonds that we can

trace back to the mine of origin. This way

we can guarantee that all of our diamonds

are conflict-free.

Find out more about our ethical sourcing

procedures in Chapter 8.

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DIAMOND SHAPES

A diamond’s ‘cut’ can also refer the shape of the stone. There are a handful of specific shapes that make up the majority of diamonds on the market.

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ROUND BRILLIANT CUT

The most popular of all diamond shapes, it’s easy to see why the round brilliant is such a sought-after choice. With every facet angled to reflect maximum light, it radiates brilliance and offers the most sparkle of all shapes.

WHAT MAKES IT SPECIAL?Not only does a round diamond exude opulence, but it’s also a very safe choice as it works perfectly in all setting styles; from vintage to traditional.

PRINCESS CUT

Modern and versatile, the princess cut is a brilliant diamond with a square cut. Its four corners give it a more contemporary appearance.

WHAT MAKES IT SPECIAL?Another highly popular choice, a princess cut also works well in almost any style and setting.

It combines stepped faceting seen in emerald cuts and Asscher cuts with the triangular facets

of a brilliant cut, however unlike emerald cut and Asscher cut, it has right angled corners and offers

more sparkle than either of these due to its brilliant cut.

OVAL CUT

Offering a twist on a traditional shape, an oval diamond is similar to a round brilliant diamond, but with a greater length/width ratio.

WHAT MAKES IT SPECIAL?Compared to the round brilliant, an oval will tend to have a larger crown area relative to its weight, which means that at any given weight the oval will tend to seem larger. This can be helpful if you are aiming to maximise your diamond’s perceived size within a given budget.

EMERALD CUT

Perfect for showing off the clarity of a diamond, an emerald cut offers an elegant look with straight edges and clean lines.

WHAT MAKES IT SPECIAL?Unlike the sparkle of a round brilliant, an emerald cut ring is usually step cut which creates a mirrored effect with flashes of light.

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ASSCHER CUT

Similar to the emerald cut diamond, the Asscher cut offers a vintage look and is distinguished by its square shape. The facet structure in an Asscher cut diamond requires a high clarity stone as inclusions can be more visible.

WHAT MAKES IT SPECIAL?With its straight lines and large step facets, the Asscher cut produces a ‘hall of mirrors’ effect that can look quite striking.

MARQUISE CUT

First commissioned by King Louis XV, a marquise cut is another unique shape that

radiates vintage charm.

WHAT MAKES IT SPECIAL?An advantage of a marquise cut diamond is that it prioritises carat weight and looks bigger than

other stones of the same weight. Like the oval cut, a marquise is also a great choice if the wearer would

prefer a style that elongates the finger.

CUSHION CUT

A beautiful choice, this cut features a square shape with rounded edges like a pillow.

WHAT MAKES IT SPECIAL?The modern cushion cut evolved from the old mine cut, which was the most popular shape for a diamond until the early twentieth century. While modern cushion cut diamonds are shaped like old mine cuts, with a ‘soft’ square or pillow shape (giving rise to the name), their faceting is similar to the round brilliant cut. As a result, they tend to sparkle more than the older stones.

PEAR CUT

Striking and unusual, the pear or ‘tear drop’ shape makes a statement with a tapered point on one end.

WHAT MAKES IT SPECIAL?The pear cut diamond is a modified brilliant cut with 58 facets, and the ideal proportions are generally thought to be when the length is about 1½ times the width. The elongated pear shape can have a flattering effect on the hand, making your fingers look longer and more slender.

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HOW ARE DIAMONDS PRICED?

Although the four Cs are the main factors in determining the price of a diamond, there are many other factors that can impact and influence a diamond’s value. However, that’s not to say all diamonds are priced equally. Here’s a few things to consider.

Diamonds are priced per carat. For example, a 0.5ct diamond might have a carat price of £2,000. This means that the price of the stone is 0.5 x 2,000 = £1,000. It may come as no surprise that larger diamonds tend to be more expensive than smaller stones. However, a good rule of thumb is that if you double the size of a stone, the price is likely to be more than double too.

Another thing to be aware of is that carat prices can increase drastically at round numbers. It’s often the case that the price of a 1ct diamond differs greatly than that of a 0.99ct diamond, sometimes by 10-20%.

THE RAPAPORT DIAMOND REPORT

The diamond industry’s pricing system is called the Rapaport Diamond Report (or Rap List). This price list is released every Friday and describes the carat price for each category of loose diamonds. This list just offers an indication of pricing and there is no requirement to sell at the prices listed.

The Rap List only takes into account colour, clarity and size. It doesn’t factor in a diamond’s cut, polish or symmetry. This means that stones often trade below the listed Rapaport Price. For example, if two diamonds fall into the same category on the Rap List but are trading at different prices, it’s probably because one has a better cut, polish and symmetry, or because the other has significant fluorescent. Although these factors impact on a diamond’s appearance, the biggest influencers on price are colour and clarity.

Find out more about diamond pricing at www.ingleandrhode.co.uk/about-us/blog/how-diamonds-are-priced

WHAT DIAMONDS DO WE RECOMMEND?

1. You should only purchase a diamond with premium cut, polish and symmetry grades as this is what determines the sparkle.

2. Make sure the diamond’s colour and clarity scores are comparable, e.g. VS1 with G colour. Avoid diamonds which score extremely highly in one category but are only mediocre in another.

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DIAMOND CERTIFICATES AND

LABORATORIES

A diamond is deemed certified if it has been independently graded by a gemological laboratory. The best-known and arguably most reputable organisation offering these reports is the Gemological Institute of America (GIA). Other well-known providers of gemological reports include the American Gemological Society (AGS), the Diamond High Council (HRD) in Antwerp, and the International Gemological Institute (IGI).

It is unusual for diamonds below about 0.3ct to come with a gemological report due to the cost of certification. However, be wary of jewellers selling larger diamonds without a certificate, or diamonds they have certified themselves. Although it may sometimes be necessary to source an uncertified diamond, there is a risk that the quality will be lower than you have been led to believe.

Find out more about diamond certificates at www.ingleandrhode.co.uk/diamond-certificates

A NOTE ON FLUORESCENCE

Approximately one in three diamonds will glow under ultraviolet light – a natural phenomenon known as fluorescence. This is usually caused by the presence of nitrogen as a trace element impurity in diamond.

Diamonds with a very strong fluorescence may have a ‘milky’ or ‘oily’ appearance. These rare stones are known as ’overblues.’ It isn’t advisable to buy strongly fluorescent diamonds, but in certain cases it might be a good idea. For example, if you want a slightly bigger stone you will get a lower price.

If you are quoted a price for a diamond that looks too good to be true, it’s likely that it will have something wrong with it like strong fluorescence.

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WHAT ARE LAB-CREATED

DIAMONDS?

Simply put, lab-created diamonds are man-made. They are real diamonds, but they are produced in a laboratory by recreating the conditions under which diamonds are produced in nature. These laboratories have highly controlled environments and use advanced technical processes.

The only way to tell the difference between a lab-created diamond and a natural diamond is through specialised equipment at a gemological laboratory. A jeweller viewing a gemstone with a 10x magnification loupe would be unable to tell the difference.

PROSThere are three main advantages to choosing a lab-grown diamond. The first is that the production of a lab-grown stone has a lower environmental impact than a mined diamond. However, lab-created diamonds are produced from graphite, which is itself mined, and the process of converting graphite to diamond uses very large amounts of energy in order to create very high temperatures and pressures.

Secondly, you can also be assured that lab-created diamonds do not come from conflict zones. And lastly, lab-created diamonds are more affordable than natural diamonds of a similar size and quality.

CONSThe main disadvantage of a lab-grown diamond is that it lacks the romantic appeal of a natural gemstone, unlike mined diamonds, all of which were created billions of years ago through natural geological processes.

RECYCLED DIAMONDS

Re-using a diamond from an inherited piece of jewellery can make for a really nice memento and can be used to create a ring with an extra-special meaning behind it.

Before you re-use any diamond, it’s always a good idea to send it to a gemological laboratory for inspection to check the condition of the stone. A simple inspection by a gemologist may cost as little as £25, but if you’re planning to sell the stone, you might consider having a full certificate, which typically costs in the region of £100, depending on the size of the stone.

A WORD ON HEARTS AND ARROWS

Hearts and arrows diamonds are round brilliant cuts which possess exceptional symmetry and an extremely precise cut. A diamond with this cut has a pattern of eight grey arrows which point in to the centre when viewed from above with a gemstone viewer (as shown here). When viewed from below, the pattern that appears is eight hearts with their bases pointing towards the middle. These shapes are caused by the way the facets are configured to block light from certain directions. This pattern can only be seen when the diamond is cut in the exact right way.

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CHAPTER FIVE

GEMSTONES

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HOW TO CHOOSE A GEMSTONE

Colourful, beautiful and unique, it’s easy to see why gemstones have risen in popularity. As seen on celebrities and royalty alike, such as Kate Middleton, Elizabeth Hurley and Victoria Beckham, choosing a vibrant gem can really add character and charm to your

engagement ring. But where do you begin?

Although there are many different types of gemstones, the most sought-after stones are diamonds, rubies, sapphires and emeralds, also known as ‘the big four’. All gemstones are measured on the Mohs scale, which indicates the relative hardness of the gem. Diamond

is the hardest and scores 10 on the Mohs scale. It is four times harder than ruby and sapphire which score 9. It’s really important to consider the

hardness of a stone before purchasing it, as if it is too soft it will not stand up well to everyday wear and tear.

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ALL ABOUT SAPPHIRES

Ever since Prince William proposed to The Duchess of Cambridge, the desire for sapphires has increased. Bold and alluring, a sapphire is a great choice if you want an alternative to a diamond. But before you say ‘I do’ to something blue, there are a few things you should know.

HOW HARD ARE SAPPHIRES?

Sapphires are very hard, scoring a 9 on the Mohs scale of hardness, but are still not as hard as diamonds which score a 10. Although sapphires are more prone to damage than diamonds, they are more durable than emeralds and are better suited to withstanding wear and tear.

SAPPHIRES VS DIAMONDS

Like all gemstones, the size of a sapphire is expressed by its carat weight, with 1 carat equal to 0.2 grams. As a sapphire is denser than a diamond, the sapphire will be smaller than a diamond of the same weight.

WHAT OTHER COLOURS ARE AVAILABLE?

Although most sapphires are blue, they also come in a range of pinks, yellows, purples, oranges and greens. Many people prefer a rich royal blue or peacock shade as they tend to look good under various light sources. It’s important to note that pale stones can appear washed out under bright daylight, while very dark sapphires don’t work well under lower light.

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WHAT ABOUT ZONING?

When the colour of a sapphire is unevenly distributed it creates patches of light and dark. This is known as zoning and can give sapphires a slightly stripy appearance. Sapphires are often cut in a way that makes zoning not visible when the stone is viewed from above. This means that with an appropriate setting, the zoning will be invisible in the finished piece.

DO ALL SAPPHIRES HAVE INCLUSIONS?

It’s very rare to find a sapphire that is entirely free of natural blemishes or inclusions. If the sapphire has one or two small inclusions, it’s usually considered acceptable. If you do have your heart set on a flawless sapphire, they can be extremely expensive.

WHAT TREATMENTS SHOULD YOU

BE AWARE OF?

Unless you are told otherwise, you should assume that a sapphire has experienced heat treatment. This technique is so common and well established that it’s generally not thought necessary to disclose it. The process itself helps to improve the colour and clarity of a sapphire and leaves it in a secure state that won’t change over time.

If a sapphire is deemed so good that it doesn’t need treatment, then the stones will be sent to a laboratory for certification and will be supplied with paperwork to confirm ‘no evidence of thermal enhancement.’ These certified unheated sapphires tend to trade at a significant premium.

Primavera

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ALL ABOUT RUBIES

Rubies not only radiate beauty and elegance, but they also score a 9 on the Mohs hardness scale making them a great choice to withstand everyday wear and tear.

They also come in a range of shades from orange-red to pure red and purple-red, with the finest and most sought-after rubies exhibiting an intense, vibrant red.

HOW VALUABLE ARE RUBIES?

Clarity plays a big part in the value of a ruby. The better the clarity, the more expensive the stone. Flawless rubies are exceptionally valuable. However, most rubies have visible blemishes or inclusions which can come in many forms, such as feather-like cracks or grain crystals.

ARE RUBIES HEAT TREATED?

The colour and clarity of rubies can be enhanced through a heating process. This process is very common and has been practiced for many of years. So, when considering a ruby, you should probably assume it has been heat treated, unless you are advised otherwise.

ARE THERE ANY OTHER TREATMENTS

TO BE AWARE OF?

Apart from heating, there are other treatments that rubies can be exposed to, such as lead glass filling, flux heating and beryllium diffusion. These treatments can disguise problems with a stone’s colour or clarity and can, on occasion, cause structural weaknesses in the gem.

These treatments can significantly undermine the value of a ruby and should always be disclosed. So if the ruby seems remarkably well-priced and there aren’t any obvious issues with colour or clarity, then it’s likely to have been subjected to one or more of these treatments.

If you are in any doubt, then you should get the stone checked by an independent gemologist – no reputable supplier would object to this request.

DID YOU KNOW?

The most desirable colour of a ruby is called ‘pigeon’s blood’,

which is a rich, intense red.

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ALL ABOUT EMERALDS

Admired for their captivating beauty and rarity, emeralds have been coveted for centuries by the likes of Cleopatra, Elizabeth Taylor and, more recently, by Angelina Jolie.

Although an emerald makes for a striking choice, they have some unique properties that make them different to the rest of the ‘big four.’ So, it’s important to be aware of all the facts before committing to an emerald engagement ring.

WHAT SHADE ARE THE FINEST EMERALDS?

Emeralds are a member of the beryl family of gemstones, with the finest emeralds being a pure green or green with a hint of blue. These shades are often the most desired too.

Flawless emeralds are very rare and exceptionally valuable. Nearly every emerald will have some visible blemishes or ‘inclusions’, which can include impurities, tiny fractures or growth lines. With budget in mind, it’s up to you whether a not completely flawless emerald would bother you or not.

HOW HARD ARE EMERALDS?

Emeralds are quite soft, measuring 7.5-8 on the Mohs hardness scale, compared with 9 for sapphire and ruby, and 10 for diamond. This means that you’ll need to be extra careful with an emerald ring as it can become damaged more easily through knocks and bumps. The emeralds inclusions are its natural weak spots, so if you do bump your ring against something hard, the inclusions can become more visible.

HOW WILL I KNOW IF IT HAS UNDERGONE

ANY TREATMENTS?

Many emeralds go through an oiling treatment to improve their colour and clarity. Over time, this may cause the stone to dry out and become less vibrant. If this does occur, vibrancy can be restored through re-oiling, which is straightforward and inexpensive. Oiling is acceptable if it has been disclosed and almost all emeralds will have traces of oil from the cutting wheel.

Some emeralds have their surface-reaching inclusions filled with glass or resin. Although this can superficially improve their appearance, it can leave the emerald vulnerable to changes in air pressure, heat and various chemicals. It’s a good idea to steer clear of dyed stones or ones that have been treated with glass or resin.

DID YOU KNOW?

Saturation refers to how intense the colour is; generally, the more intense the better. Tone refers to how light or dark

the stone is, with a medium tone (not too dark) generally considered the best.

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CHAPTER SIX

PRECIOUS METALS

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WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW

ABOUT PRECIOUS METALS

From platinum to white, yellow and rose gold, there are a number of options to choose from when it comes to deciding on a precious metal. The most popular choices for engagement rings are platinum and white gold. Although these metals may look similar, they have a few different qualities which you should be aware of.

It’s also important to think about what metal your partner will prefer. If you’re unsure, take a look at their existing jewellery as this will be the best indicator. If their preference is clearly rose gold, then the choice is simple. If they favour white metal, then you’ll need to choose between white gold and platinum.

GOLD VS. PLATINUM

Gold has been a desirable choice for years and is prized for its beauty, whereas platinum is rarer, more valuable and has better durability. Platinum is often regarded as the most luxurious of all precious metals.

To make the selection process easier, we’ve outlined six key considerations on the following page.

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1. COLOUR

The most obvious starting point when considering the differences between gold and platinum is their colour.

Gold is naturally yellow, though it is often alloyed (mixed with other metals) to form white gold or rose gold. Platinum on the other hand is a naturally greyish-white metal.

If you find yourself torn between white gold and platinum, there are a few useful facts to bear in mind.

Platinum in its unpolished state is actually a pale grey colour, but when it’s highly polished it becomes very reflective and takes on a bright white appearance.

In contrast, white gold has a slightly off-white colour with a hint of yellow even when polished, unless it is rhodium-plated (which most white gold is). In this case it takes on an even brighter white than platinum.

2. PURITY

It’s normal practice to mix platinum and gold with other metals to ensure a strong piece of jewellery. Platinum 950 is 95% pure with just 5% alloy. In comparison, 18ct white gold is 75% pure, with 25% alloys.

It’s often thought that 24ct gold (100% purity) is the most luxurious choice, however it doesn’t work well in an engagement ring. Gold at 100% purity is far too soft and is mainly bought as an investment. The best choice for fine jewellery is 18ct gold.

3. STRENGTH

Platinum is denser than gold and has a higher tensile strength meaning it stands up better to wear and tear over time. Its strength is an important consideration if you wish to create a delicate piece of jewellery.

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4. WEAR AND TEAR

No matter what your engagement ring is made out of, all jewellery will require a little maintenance at some point. It’s perfectly normally for an engagement ring to become scuffed over time.

Platinum can lose its shine, but this can be easily fixed with a quick polish. If a white gold engagement ring has been rhodium plated, the plate will eventually wear away to reveal the colour of the white gold beneath. If this happens, it’s easy to get a new rhodium plate applied.

5. PRICE

For obvious reasons, price is another important consideration when it comes to which metal you choose. As platinum is denser than 18ct white gold, a platinum ring will generally use more metal and therefore be more expensive than a gold ring.

6. SUSTAINABILITY

All mining has some sort of effect on the environment, but there are more ethical ways of sourcing precious metals.

If you are considering gold for your ring, you should think about sourcing from a Fairtrade supplier. By choosing Fairtrade gold, you can be reassured that the miners are paid fairly, that they work with good health and safety measures in place, that there is no child labour, and that strict environmental standards are maintained.

There is no Fairtrade alternative for platinum at present, but recycled platinum can be sourced instead, which reduces the impact of mining activity and its damaging effects.

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CHAPTER SEVEN

CARING FOR YOUR RING

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INSURING YOUR RING

An engagement ring is likely to be one of the biggest purchases you’ll ever make. So, it’s important to be protected in case it gets lost, damaged or stolen. Hopefully, this will never happen, but if it does you’ll be thankful you got your ring insured.

The good news is that if you already have home contents insurance, you may be able to get your ring included in your policy. Just make sure you check the terms of your policy carefully as it may only cover items up to a certain value. It’s also likely that you’ll need to get your ring added as a named item on your policy.

If you don’t have home contents insurance, or if you’re unsatisfied with your policy’s level of cover, you can get your ring covered with a specialist jewellery insurance policy. If your insurer requires a written valuation of your engagement ring, it can often be provided by the jeweller who supplied it.

CLEANING YOUR RING

No matter how well made it is, all engagement rings require a bit of love and attention from time to time. As most engagement rings are worn every day, it’s perfectly normal for them to be subjected to a little wear and tear.

Watch out for shampoos, moisturisers and make up as they can leave behind residues that can cause precious metals to look dull and obscure the sparkle of the diamond or gemstone.

Platinum or gold rings set with diamonds, rubies or sapphires can be easily cleaned at home. All you need is a little warm water and a soft toothbrush. Once you’ve cleaned the ring, gently dab it with a soft towel. Make sure you don’t use a hard brush as it could scratch the metal. You should also steer clear of any type of cleaning products as they can be far too abrasive.

If you feel that your ring needs a more professional clean, take it to your jeweller for a polish. This should help to restore it to its previous quality. For rings with other gemstones, such as emeralds or pearls which can scratch more easily, it’s best to get it cleaned by your jeweller.

HOW TO LOOK AFTER YOUR ENGAGEMENT RING

KEEP YOUR RING BOX ON YOUR BEDSIDE TABLE AND PUT YOUR

ENGAGEMENT RING IN THE BOX EVERY TIME YOU TAKE IT OFF.

YOU SHOULD AVOID LEAVING IT ON THE MANTELPIECE OF BY THE

SIDE OF THE SINK. THAT WAY, THERE’S ONLY ONE PLACE YOUR

RING COULD BE IF YOU THINK YOU’VE MISPLACED IT.

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CHAPTER EIGHT

ETHICAL SOURCING

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Many people are unaware that the creation of a beautiful engagement ring can cause environmental damage, human rights abuse and the exploitation of workers. These issues are often overlooked or ignored by most jewellery brands.

TIM SAYS:

“When it comes to engagement rings, diamonds are particularly problematic. ‘Blood’ diamonds are mined in war-torn countries where conflict is funded by the diamond trade. Here, diamonds signify worker exploitation and atrocious human rights abuses rather than romance

and commitment. Diamond miners are some of the poorest people on the planet and work in extremely dangerous conditions.

Not only this, but diamond mining has taken a huge toll on the environment across Africa and other parts of the world. In Angola,

mining has led to deforestation, soil erosion, and the relocation of local people. Elsewhere, wildlife has vanished, mines have been abandoned and

the landscape is now desolate after years of irresponsible exploitation.

Not to mention the metal band itself, with poorly sourced gold seeing one ring generate as much as 20 tonnes of waste.”

HOW TO SOURCE YOUR RING ETHICALLY

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To feel confident that your engagement ring is ethical and responsibly sourced, there are five questions you should ask before buying a ring.

1. AVOID CONFLICT DIAMONDS - BE AWARE THAT THE KIMBERLEY PROCESS ISN’T ENOUGH

When buying a diamond, you’ll hear a lot about the four Cs, but there is actually a 5th C that’s extremely important: conflict-free.

Pretty much every jeweller will say that their diamonds are certified by the Kimberley Process and that this means they are conflict-free. But this is no guarantee at all.

The process requires all rough diamonds to be transported in tamper-resistant containers when crossing international borders, with a forgery-resistant certificate and a unique number. Despite these regulations being in place, there are many gaps in the system and blood diamonds can still find their way to market.

2. CHECK TRACEABILITY

If you don’t know where your diamond came from, then you can’t be sure that it was ethically produced.

Only a small proportion of the diamonds on the market are traceable back to source. Canadamark is a scheme that makes this possible from some of the diamond mines in the Diavik and Ekati mines in Canada. A unique serial number is laser inscribed on each of the diamonds that’s registered under this scheme allowing it to be traced back to a specific piece of rough crystal.

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3. GO FOR FAIRTRADE GOLD

Opting for a ring made from Fairtrade gold can really make a difference to the lives of miners and the communities they live in. You can rest assured that miners from a Fairtrade mine are working in health and safety regulated conditions with fair wages and no child labour. Be sure to check if your jeweller is Fairtrade gold certified.

4. CONSIDER RECYCLED METALS

Choosing a ring made from recycled gold or platinum is another way you can reduce your environmental footprint of your ring. Recycled metals help

to reduce the demand for newly mined metals, which helps to avoid the damaging effects that mining has on the environment. There is also no

difference in quality whatsoever between new or a recycled metal.

At Ingle & Rhode we abide by our high ethical standards ensuring all our diamonds and gemstones are traceable back to source and we use only Fairtrade or recycled metals in our rings. All the design and craftsmanship that goes into creating our rings is done here in the UK.

5. ASK WHERE YOUR RING WAS (OR WILL BE) MADEMost of the jewellery bought in the UK has been manufactured in Asia. This is a cost saving approach for businesses here, but comes at

the expense of working conditions and pay as well as the quality of the finished ring. The best jewellery is not made this way. Your jeweller should

be able to tell you exactly where your jewellery was made, and ideally the names of the craftsmen and women who created it. For example, Ingle &

Rhode only use craftsmen and designers here in the UK so you know your ring hasn’t had to travel miles around the globe.

At Ingle & Rhode we abide by our high ethical standards ensuring all our diamonds and gemstones are traceable back to source and we use only Fairtrade or recycled metals in our rings. All the design and craftsmanship that goes into creating our rings is done here in the UK.

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THANK YOU

We hope this guide has helped you on your journey to buying the perfect engagement ring. If there is anything else we can do to help,

please don’t hesitate to contact us.

Read our clients’ testimonials at www.ingleandrhode.co.uk/about-us/testimonials

“Ingle & Rhode is one of London’s number one jewellery

destinations”

“Ingle & Rhode... the jewellers leading the way to cleaner,

greener gold.”

“Better shut the cabinet doors, I’m feeling involuntary

kleptomania coming on.”

“Ingle & Rhode is perfect for couples who want style and luxury with a conscience.”

“Ingle & Rhode... committed to ethical sourcing.”

“Ingle & Rhode produces beautiful pieces that you can wear with a clear conscience.”

Our customers say “Excellent” 9.7 out of 10 rating (as of June 2019)