The Clotherie Magazine Fall 2014 - Celebrating The Life of Greg Eveloff
-
Upload
tyler-ludwig -
Category
Documents
-
view
224 -
download
3
description
Transcript of The Clotherie Magazine Fall 2014 - Celebrating The Life of Greg Eveloff
The Clotherie Cover
I N M E M O R I U M
“WHAT COUNTS IN LIFE IS NOT THE MERE FACT THAT WE HAVE LIVED.
IT IS WHAT DIFFERENCE WE HAVE MADE TO THE LIVES OF OTHERS
THAT WILL DETERMINE THE SIGNIFICANCE OF THE LIFE WE LIVED.”
MAGAZINE
THE
greg eveloff
Celebratingthe life of
FALL 2014/WINTER 2015 • ISSUE 20
8160 E. Butherus Drive Ste 5 Scottsdale, AZ 85260
(480) 556-9931www.spivakfinancial.com
Please visit our On Demand Retirement Planning Seminar:
www.spivakfinancialpresents.com
HOW BIG IS YOUR RETIREMENT SHORTFALL? WILL YOUR MONEY LAST AS LONG AS YOU DO?
HOW WILL INFLATION IMPACT YOUR RETIREMENT? HOW WILL TAXES AFFECT YOUR INCOME AND CASH FLOW?
THESE ARE SOME OF THE QUESTIONS THAT KEEP PEOPLE UP AT NIGHT. SIMPLY VISIT OUR WEBSITE BELOW AND SEE WHY PEOPLE ARE CALLING THIS A LIFE CHANGING
EXPERIENCE FOR THEIR RETIREMENT PLANNING!
Securities and Advisory Services offered through Centaurus Financial. Inc., a registered broker/dealer member FINRA and SIPC.Supervisor Branch: 2300 E. Katella Avenue Ste 200, Anaheim, CA 92806 (714) 456-1790. Centaurus Financial and
The Spivak Financial Group are not affiliated companies.
Our Mission is to help ensure the long term financial security of our clients, their families and their businesses by helping them to grow, protect, manage, and pass on their assets consistent with their stated goals and objectives.
* Investment Advisor / Wealth Management Services* Retirement Planning* Income Distribution Techniques* IRA / Qualified Plans* Life Insurance Strategies* Disability Income and Long Term Care Planning* Estate Transfer Strategies* Comprehensive Financial Planning* Alternative Investments* Employee Benefit Plan Design
W
T H E C L O T H E R I E M A G A Z I N E • F A L L & W I N T E R 2 0 1 4
2 5 0 2 E A S T C A M E L B A C K R O A D • P H O E N I X , A R I Z O N A 8 5 0 1 6 • 6 0 2 9 5 6 8 6 0 0 • W W W . T H E C L O T H E R I E . C O M
Welcome to our 20th edition and fall 2014 issue of The Clotherie Magazine. While we
welcome this new season with a heavy heart and a touch of sadness, we embrace it with
gratitude and thanks.
“What counts in life is not the mere fact that we have lived. It is what difference we
have made to the lives of others that will determine the significance of the life we lived.”
This was the credo by which Greg lived his life. He touched so many people with his
smile, a casual conversation or a simple kind gesture. He was not only blessed, but he
was a blessing. He was the most generous, selfless, compassionate, loving man you could be lucky
enough to know. If he touched your life, he left an imprint on your soul.
We are dedicating this 20th edition of The Clotherie Magazine to Greg...along with a collection of classic articles on fashion, travel,
trends, and more, the magazine will be devoted to memories, stories, and loving tributes shared by family, friends and colleagues. All of
the proceeds will be donated to one of Greg’s three favorite charities: Boys and Girls Club of Greater Scottsdale; Cortney’s Place; and
Phoenix Suns Charities.
Beyond our dedication to customer service and providing an exceptional shopping experience, The Clotherie is committed to serving
and generously giving back to the community. Check out our Holiday Certificate (page 57) - “Get Rid of the Old, Get Something New”
and help out the Boys and Girls Club of Greater Scottsdale.
We will miss Greg’s contagious smile and his joyful laughter, but his legacy will live on forever. We owe our deepest gratitude to our
great state, to our many loyal customers like yourself, and to our family of dedicated Clotherie employees that have all contributed to
making this business such a success for more than 45 years! We promise to continue to live by the same traditions and bring you the finest
selections of designer apparel for years to come. See you at The Clotherie soon!
With gratitude,
Mikki Eveloff
I S S U E T W E N T Y • T H E C L O T H E R I E M A G A Z I N E
3 Welcome
6 Celebrating the LIfe of Greg Eveloff
16 The Clotherie — Out and About
18 Clotherie Events
20 Sartoria Partenopea
22 Men’s Trend Report
28 Cadillac ELR
32 Discomfort Zone
36 The Incomparable Lauren Bacall
40 50 is the New 13?
46 Paradise Island
50 Beyond the Basics
54 The Evolution of Times Square
56 Techtoyz — Google Glass
58 On the Whiskey Trail
62 On the Cheap
64 Circle of Gentlemen
66 Charitable Giving of the Phoenix Suns
22p
Todd Tufts • Editor in Chief/Publisher/Creative DirectorLeslie C. Smith • Assistant Editorial Director Larry Stuart • Art Director
Stephen Lewis • Assistant Copy Editor Vence Vida • Production Manager/Designer Kyle Boyer • Designer
The Clotherie Magazine is published by Tufts Communications, 1201 E. 5th Street, Suite 1009 • Anderson, IN 46012T: 765-608-3081 • E: [email protected] • © 2014, Tufts Communications. All rights reserved. Printed in the USA.
c o n t e n t s
6] T H E C L O T H E R I E M A G A Z I N E
Greg began his illustrious retail career at eight years old when
he worked for his father, Sam, opening and closing the back door
for customers at Marcus Department Store in Council Bluffs Iowa.
Growing up in the family business, retail was in his blood. Greg
turned his passion into reality and headed to Arizona State Univer-
sity where he graduated in 3 ½ years with a degree in marketing
and retail. With job pickings slim and a wedding to his fiancé, Mikki
looming only a month after graduation, he decided that moving
back to Iowa and sliding into the family business was the best deci-
sion. Well, even though he loved his family and loved the business,
Iowa was not the place for them. They packed their bags, no pro-
spective jobs in sight, no place to live and headed west.
Greg interviewed for three retail positions and accepted a sales
position at The Clotherie, telling Mikki, “I will keep looking…there
has to be something better.” From salesman, to manager, Greg did
not always pride himself on product, but on customer service and
building relationships with his clients. This was what truly mattered
most to Greg…his clients were like “family.” He built three gener-
ations of clients and prided himself on those relationships.
“Doing what you love is the cornerstone of having abundances in
your life.” I cannot think of a quote that embraces Greg’s passion for
The Clotherie and his employees more. The Clotherie was Greg’s
fourth child. He gave it so much love, attention and nurturing. This
was one of our few arguments because I often felt like second fiddle,
but that’s also what made us work. Greg had such a passion, drive,
and commitment to be the best that he could possibly be….not
just a retail store, but a place where people came to feel welcome.
A place where people returned again and again because it felt like
“home.” I do believe he succeeded…
As CEO of The Clotherie, Greg took The Clotherie to new soar-
ing levels winning numerous prestigious awards in the retail indus-
try. He was most proud of being named Best of Class Gold Standard
by Esquire Magazine, voted #1 Men’s Store in Ranking Arizona for
Arizona Business Magazine since 1997, and being honored as one
of the top 20 stores in the country with the prestigious award from
MR Magazine. He was also extremely proud of his long-running
relationship with the Phoenix Suns, whom The Clotherie continues
to sponsor after 33 years.
Two years ago, Greg expanded his retail organization and opened
Bonafide Goods and R & R Surplus at Union at Biltmore Fashion
Park. Bonafide Goods is Phoenix’s first micro-haberdashery, which
offers contemporary clothing, hats and accessories for the younger
demographic, along with a women’s active wear store for working
out or hanging out.
Greg loved his employees; they were more like his friends who
worked hard for him and they worked together. His legacy carries on.
in memorium
the life ofgreg eveloffCelebrating
greg eveloff
8] T H E C L O T H E R I E M A G A Z I N E
I was blessed to have Greg in my life for over 40 years. Some called
our life together a fairytale, and, until August 30th we lived the “happily
ever after.” “When I first saw him, I smiled because I knew.” For me, it
was love at first sight…he may have taken a little twisting, but I nabbed
him pretty quick and fast. After a sudden change of events that brought
me back to ASU in 1974, I spotted Greg from a balcony and told my
roommate, “I’m going to marry that guy.” One week later we went out
on our first date…three months later we were engaged…and, as they say
in fairytales, the rest is history. Was it perfect? I believe so, because we
always knew how to find our way back when the going got tough. Greg
was my soul mate, my best friend. Just 2 months ago we planned to
renew our vows in 2016 for our 40th anniversary, but our real goal was
to be together for 75 years! Well…I guess God had different plans for us.
Greg had so many roles in his family life and he played each one with
perfection. He was an amazing son to Leona and Sam brother to Mark
and Roz. My family embraced him as a son and brother from the begin-
ning, dropping the “in-law” from the get-go due to his endearing and
generous heart. But, his greatest role in life was being a father…there
was no greater joy to Greg. He adored his children and grandchildren and
was so incredibly proud of their accomplishments. He carried a wallet
full of pictures that dated back so many years that they were yellowed,
crushed and crinkled. One of his last cherished moments (among many)
was walking Ashley down the aisle at her wedding and doing a special
choreographed dance with her that night. He spent so many years feeling
guilty because he worked tirelessly while the kids were growing up, but
he was juggling career and family as best he could. He would run from
the store to a tennis tournament and back to the store; he would race out
from a customer to watch Ashley dance at an ASU game or competition.
He tried not to miss a thing. He wanted to be ten people all the time;
that was probably his greatest gift and downfall all at once. He was our
superhero and thought he could be everyone else’s too.
Greg loved celebrations and he never did it in a small way. He loved
surprises, especially when it came to surprising the kids or me. He was
never good at saying “no” and, if he did, it was usually because he had
something up his sleeve. He pulled a big one off on me for my birthday
this past July. I guess it was our ultimate celebration together…our last
big bang. I did the same for him in February and in our 40 years together
it was the first time I was every really successful at truly surprising him.
It was awesome…he said it was his best birthday ever!
Even though Greg’s life of 60 years was cut way too short, I believe
we lived a life that was full…full of love, family, happiness. What more
could we ask for? In the past ten years we traveled as a family to places
we only used to dream about. We celebrated life everyday. As corny as it
may sound, Greg was my hero, in the true essence of the word. He taught
me so much about love, life, kindness and myself. I will cherish all of
those memories, but it is the little things I will miss most. ..his six o’clock
call as he drives home from work…a random text saying “I Love You!”…
his smile…holding hands…his kids…and even his raucous snore…what I
wouldn’t give for one more snore.
Gregger…we started our lives together in Maui on our honeymoon 38
years and one half years ago, and I guess you wanted us to part ways there
too. I will miss you every day for the rest of my life. A piece of my heart is
eternally missing. I know you are at peace. I know you are finally getting
the rest you so well deserve, probably sipping on a Jameson’s. Sleep well
my love…until we meet again.
— Mikki
the life of
with family and friendsgreg eveloffCelebrating
in memorium
Mikki and Greg Eveloff
10] T H E C L O T H E R I E M A G A Z I N E
Aside from being the best father a son could dream of, my dad was also
my best friend, my greatest mentor and will always be my hero. There are
no words to express the joy I felt in every moment I shared with him on
this earth. The way my dad lived life each and everyday is something that
I aspire to in the days, months and years ahead. My mom and dad have
provided me with the best blueprint on how to live life; work hard, be
persistent and passionate, but always remain caring and compassionate.
Do what is right and always be kind to people. Always go the extra mile
for others and appreciate those in your life.
I was blessed to have spent over 33 years with my father and will
never forget all the great memories, talks, walks, lunches, Suns games,
and moments that we spent together. My father made a lasting impact on
almost every person that he came across. Most importantly, he influenced
me to be the best person I could be each and every day. He was always
there during the great times, but, more importantly, was that much more
present during the tough times in life. I am so blessed to be your son and
best friend, Dad! Thank you for everything you taught me and for being
you. I will greatly miss the daily texts wishing me to have a great day and
telling me “you loved me,” as well as the nightly calls on your way home
from the store where we would chat about life and each other’s days.
Now, as he would have said, Dad…”sleep good, sweet dreams, I love
you.” I will miss you and love you with all my heart every second, minute,
and hour for each day the rest of my life…You were truly the best and I
am blessed to call myself your son! I love you always!
You are my best friend. You are the best father, husband and person
I’ve ever met (or known) in my life. Your heart, your love, your self-
lessness will live on forever. I’m going to cherish every moment, tickle,
phone call, text that we spent together. I’ve “listened” to everything you
attempted to teach me, and it sunk in, Dad! I love you more than life
itself. I am so blessed to be your son and best friend. This is not goodbye
Dad. You will live in my heart every moment of every day. Thank you for
all the hugs and kisses we shared. Your legacy will continue through me.
Relax and rest in peace my best friend. I will make you proud every day
Dad. Thank you Dad. One last leg tickle and kiss until we see each other
again. So blessed and loved. I love you Dad…always!
— Ryan
Dad, my best friend, my role model, my superman, the first man I ever
loved, my angel…I cannot thank you enough for everything you did for
me, taught me, and for all the love you showered me with throughout the
years. I have no idea how I landed the jackpot to have you as my father.
We had a special bond that I was so blessed to share with you. You made
Ryan and Greg Eveloff
Greg and Ashley Eveloff
in memorium
We love and miss you very much!
The Henig Family
Greg, you will be sorely missed and
forever in our heartsLove, Craig and Dayna Henig
eloved brother and son - We dropped the in-law nearly 40 years agoeliable. Greg was happy to go out of his way to do a favor for you-no matter what it wasne of a kindicest guy you have ever metmile – his lit up any room he walked intoind to everyone and always made each person feel like they were importantmazinmazingly generous to friends and family alike
unny with an infectious laughlways the first to call each of us on our birthdaysikki brought you into our family – we are so grateful that she eyed you from the balcony at ASUmpeccably dressed. We need to say no moreoved talking and watching sports - especially the Sunsou will be sorely missed by the entire Bronska Family. We love you, Greg.
12] T H E C L O T H E R I E M A G A Z I N E
me laugh at the worst of times, and taught me not to sweat the small
stuff. You always made me feel like the prettiest girl in the room and
could never tell me enough how proud you were of me. Well dad, I am so
very proud of you! Always have been, and always will be. You were and
are truly one-of-a-kind. The genuine kindness and compassion you had
for your family, friends, and absolute strangers is something I hope to live
up to. You make us all want to be better people. You were an angel on
earth, and now the best, most handsome guardian angel I could imagine.
I wish I could hug you one more time, laugh with you one more time,
and dance with you one more time. Keep shining down on us with that
infectious, beautiful smile. I love you so much dad. As you would say,
“It’s not goodbye, it’s see you later.” Cheers, daddy. Thank you for the
amazing memories. I love you forever and always. Your baby girl.
— Ashley
Gregger…In 2007 I started working at The Clotherie and remember
Greg immediately took me under his wing to show me the other side
of Men’s Fashion - something a little red head from Utah had NO idea
about. From folding pocket squares to making sure the suits were put
away right, I never expected the amount of life lessons about friend-
ship and good-heartedness I would experience each day. Every person he
spoke to or that walked into the store had a significant experience or bond
that Greg would never pass on talking about. Whether it be their kid’s
graduation, a Bar Mitzvah, a recent trip, or even just a casual conversation
about life, Greg would know all the details and most importantly always
listen. He taught me the value of being a good listener, and through the
incredible support of his friends and family I know that everyone he met
took a bit of that value with them. He knew how to “hug his customer.”
These lessons not only carried on at the store, but also every moment I
spent with him. It’s hard to fathom the amount of love and compassion
one individual could share or even possess. The life lessons, signs of self-
lessness, and ultimate value on family is something I can only hope to
bring in the next chapter of life without you by my side. I thank you every
single day for giving me the ultimate love, friend, and best friend that any
person would be lucky to have…Ashley Elizabeth. I owe you the respect,
and wish to carry on the amazing legacy that no other loving person has
given me. I love you always my Greggerino…— Tyronsky, A.K.A Tyler
colleagues Greg and I started within a month of each other at The Clotherie in
1977. He had a great background and I was new to the industry. Ulti-
mately over the years I quit three times, the third time to open my own
store. Over the next twenty years Greg and I stayed in touch and talked
shop. In 2011 I sold my store and once again was hired back at The Cloth-
erie. Greg always was one to give me another chance. And another and
another. It’s hard to imagine being in this industry without him.
— Tom Simon ⎯
Greg…Thank you for the wonderful memories…Love… — Joe Tiseo
⎯
Thank you! Thank you! These words are completely inadequate for
what you have meant to me over the years. Your untiring acts of kindness
always humbled me. Knowing you has made a huge difference in my
life. Each day I see you around every corner! All of my life I will recall
the years of joy in working with you daily and the funny ways you had in
expressing a resolution to a problem. I miss you and thank you so much
again for being part of my life. Sincerely —Barclay Weishuff
I liked Greg the moment I met him. I knew working for him would be
a great experience. It was. What I didn’t know is how much I would grow
to love him, and his family as well. He always treated us with respect and
compassion, all the while inspiring us to do better, to BE better. I miss
him everyday. His smile, his positive energy, and how he made me feel
will forever be etched in my heart and mind. I am a better person for
having known Greg. My favorite memory? All of them. I treasure each
and every one. Love you Greg. — Lisa Harrow
⎯
in memorium
Dear Greg and Mikki,
Thank you for shining that ray of sunshine into so many lives including ours. You both truly have a gift for spreading happiness to other people and making this world better place!
With Gregs passing we all suffered a tragic loss of brightness and With Gregs passing we all suffered a tragic loss of brightness and color in all of our lives. We can only be grateful for the precious time that we spent with him.
With Greg gone let us hope that we can somehow convey his sense of style,class and color to our fellow man. Whether the colors be Teal,Berry or Slate!
We all know that our dear Mikki will continue to bring joy and We all know that our dear Mikki will continue to bring joy and smiles to everyone, knowing that the Greggers beautiful infectious smile will be looking down on us all.
Love and peace to you, Greg and Mikki.
Sincerely,
The Ludwig Family
I met Greg in 2002. As a concert promoter, I decided that jeans and shirts just weren’t appropriate attire, and was referred to Greg. I had three sport jackets made (all were awesome) and found my new addiction in Canali dress shirts...I bought more than I ccould count. A short time later I went to Greg for my first of 16 suits from him, and his excitement that it would be on the stage at Carnegie Hall was fun to see. Over the years, I would send him pics of the suits (didn’t matter as much that I was wearing them!) on the sthem!) on the stage at Carnegie, and he was always very happy to see them. I would also send him pictures of the Zegna store on 5th Avenue with a message, “I’m on my way in, what should I buy?” Never bought anything, but Greg’s responses were hysterical! I called Greg in the fall of 2013 with a request – I had an EXACT copy of the jacket Paul MMcCartney wore in 1965 at Shea Stadium, and I wanted a suit made to match. He was a bit hesitant as it’s a Nehru collar type affair, but he agreed to do it. I sent the jacket to Italy, and picked the fabric from a few that Greg sent, and about 6 weeks later went to The Clotherie for a final fitting. I have to say, I had NEVER seen Greg’s face light up like it did. It is a beautiful suit (admittedly not de rigueur by today’s styles) and just one example of the fine work he did. We had many, many great talks, and I talks, and I owe a great deal of my knowledge of quality clothing to him – which is a small fraction of what he knew.
Thank you my friend. I will forever miss that great smile.
– MARK JOHNSON -
To a great friend, thanks for being so gracious and kind to our entire family.
You’re forever in our hearts and minds.The Santy FamilyDan, Liza, Josh and Jackson
14] T H E C L O T H E R I E M A G A Z I N E
A young, fairly inexperienced boutique manager walked unexpect-
edly into the world of Greg Eveloff. Not really knowing the hard
work I was capable of doing, Greg put his trust in me as he has done
for so many others. If all bosses could learn from Greg on how to
treat employees or just random acquaintances, everyone would feel
as important and loved as he made us feel.
We had little games that we would play as the time passed slowly
some days, sending inspirational, yet funny text messages. He enjoyed
that so much that we found his doppelganger in a little suited doll
that we mounted in the front of the store and called it Saint Gregory.
I will forever miss Greg and all of our little antics and the powerful
smile that he brought into my world every day. — Sia Segraves
⎯
You were present. You were there the day I met my husband. The
day we married, the day our child was born. You were supportive.
You stood by us in times of uncertainty, sheer happiness, and incon-
solable grief. You were an integral part of our family Greg. The loss
is insurmountable, but the imprint of love, kindness, and wonderful
memories will always be with us. Thank you Greg, we love you so.
— Cathyanne Cockrill
16] T H E C L O T H E R I E M A G A Z I N E
Out & AboutGOOD TIMES AT THE CLOTHERIE — CANALI
TRUNK SHOW WITH PETER SCHMID!
When Peter Schmid comes to town for The Canali Trunk Show, people listen. Rolling into town from New York with the latest fashion trends from Canali, Peter offered a plethora of fabric choices and stylings. Our clients enjoyed selecting from the new Fall 2014 Canali color stories…grey with accents of burgundy and blue mixed with brown creating an eggplant tone. Peter also previewed the Canali Spring 2015 line focused on cobalt blue with lavender tones; teal/turquoise; and pearl grey with hues of blue. As usual, the trunk show was a blend of shopping, socializing, and schmoozing with the best of the best at The Clotherie.
18] T H E C L O T H E R I E M A G A Z I N E
New StoresJonathan Adler: First-in-the market store and internationally recog-
nized design brand offering decorative objects tabletop collections,
bedding, bath accessories, gifts, candles, furniture, rugs, pillows, and
lighting.
OOO!: Outside of Ordinary, this store offers a variety of
unique specialty gifts, jewelry, apparel, accessories, home furnish-
ings and much more in UNION.
Forge Pizza: A new wood fire pizzeria featuring Neapol-
itan-style pizzas cooked in an imported wood-burning oven, along
with soups, salads, sandwiches, and more in UNION.
Short Leash Hotdogs: Local favorite serving a
unique twist on a classic favorite with a multitude of toppings and
unique combinations in UNION
Coming in 2015Arhaus: A unique, high quality, well designed home furnishings
store, projected to open in October 2015 in former Border’s space.
Events“Great Places”: Beginning in November, Biltmore Fashion Park will
be showcasing unique, artistic and functional outdoor living spaces
throughout the center designed by local, independent furniture de-
signers. Designers represented include Greg Hankerson, Vintage
Industrial Furniture; Cody Carpenter, Architectural Concrete Inte-
riors; Brandon Boetto, Slabhaus. For more information, visit shop-
biltmore.com.
Movies in the ParkJoin us for classic favorites under the stars!
Friday evening at 7:30 PM on the center lawn.
December 5: Frozen
December 12: It’s a Wonderful Life
News & EventsNovember Winter Closet Clean Out Promotion
for Boys and Girls Club of Greater Scottsdale “Bring in the Old, Get Something New”
begins November 29th through December 24th, 2014
S P E C I A L E V E N T S A T T H E B I L T M O R E
store happenings
S P E C I A L E V E N T S A T T H E C L O T H E R I E
AwardsEsquire Magazine once again honored The
Clotherie as one of the finest men’s spe-
cialty stores in the country as one of the
Gold Standard Stores, Esquire Magazine is
renowned for its expertise, knowledge, and
advice in men’s fashion for over 80 years.
The Clotherie, celebrating it’s 46th year, is
proud to receive this prestigious award that
salutes the stores that “continuously raise
the bar on what it means to be the best in
the business.”
Check it OutVisit our BRAND NEW website www.theclotherie.com for the
latest in Clotherie news, blog, fashion updates, magazine, and
so much more!
The Clotherie online store at www.theclotherie.com/on-
line-shop which features a wide selection from favorite de-
signers…new fashions and exclusive vendors including Alberto,
Eton and more.
Thanks to all of our Facebook friends! Pass the word to friends and
family so we can continue to grow…catch up on Clotherie news,
link to the Online Shop, and so much more! Continue to join us on
Facebook or follow us on Twitter!
AG Adriano GoldschmiedAgave
Alden ShoesAllegri Outerwear
Baade IIBill Lavin Belts
Borgo 28CanaliCodice
CornelianiCulturata ShirtsDonald Pliner
Dion TiesEdward Armah Pocket Rounds
Ermenegildo ZegnaEton
EurofashionGardeur
Gendarme CologneGeoff Nicholson
Georg RothGianetto Portofino
Giorgio ArmaniGravati Shoes
HauptInternational Laundry
Italo FerrettiJ. Brand Jeans
J. Paul Face CareJack Lipson Shirts
Jack VictorJet Lag
John SmedleyLBM 1911
Left Coast TeesMac JeansMason’s
Michael ToschiNat Nast
Nikky CapriPantherella
PYARaffi
Robert ComstockRobert Talbott
SamuelsohnSand
Saroria PartenopeaSwim
Tailor VintageTateossianThaddeus
To Boot by Adam DerrickTrussiniTulliani
W. KleinbergZanellaZ Zegna
THE CLOTHERIE APPAREL COLLECTIONS FOR
AUTUMN/WINTER 2014
Inspired by Passion.
The objective is to take the brand in the new millenniumproducing what Vittorio Genna ”.
PRESENT DAY
cooperate with Angelo Blasi and his son Mauro in the lead of Sartoria Partenopea.
(Advanced Logistic for Aerospace).This encounter gives life to a new company: SGB, acronym of their three surnames, which opens a new era of development and success of the brand Sartoria Partenopea on the market of international luxury. The common objective is to take the brand in the new millennium with great results
Today the company is considered an excellence in fashion and is proud of a very high percentage of foreign buyers. The constant confronting with the tailors, the attentive choice
combine innovation and tradition at their best.
THE ORIGIN OF PARTHENOPE
The origins of the city of Naples is rooted in the well-known myth of the Siren Parthenope.Ulysses, coming back from the Trojan war, had been warned by the sorceress Circe against the chant of the Sirens living on the rocks opposite Positano, which today are called “Li Galli”.The Sirens charmed, with their seducing call, the passing sailors who, subjugated by the chant, lost control of their vessels crashing in the rocks. Ulysses made his men plug their ears with wax and tied himself to the ship’s mainmast. When he tried to break loose his companions fastened him more tightly, so the ship moved past and they were safe. The Sirens were divine, but not immortal and, because of this failure, they killed themselves leaping from the rocks. The dead body of the siren Parthenope was found among the rocks of Megaride (where
venerated and worshipped her, and gave the village her name.
on the hill of Sant’Aniello in Caponapoli, under the foundations of the church of Santa Lucia, built on the temple dedicated to Parthenope, on the isle of Megaride, under Castel dell’Ovo.The name Naples instead, comes from Neapolis, New City, name that the Greek gave to it after the new settlement, erected in the harbour area. However to this day Naples is often called by its ancient name and the adjective Partenopeo is used to show belonging to the city. Sartoria Partenopea, in its name, brings the ancient Neapolitan tailoring tradition of which it is impeccable expression.
THE ORIGIN OF PARTHENOPE
The origins of the city of Naples is rooted in the well-known myth of the Siren Parthenope.Ulysses, coming back from the Trojan war, had been warned by the sorceress Circe against the chant of the Sirens living on the rocks opposite Positano, which today are called “Li Galli”.The Sirens charmed, with their seducing call, the passing sailors who, subjugated by the chant, lost control of their vessels crashing in the rocks. Ulysses made his men plug their ears with wax and tied himself to the ship’s mainmast. When he tried to break loose his companions fastened him more tightly, so the ship moved past and they were safe. The Sirens were divine, but not immortal and, because of this failure, they killed themselves leaping from the rocks. The dead body of the siren Parthenope was found among the rocks of Megaride (where
venerated and worshipped her, and gave the village her name.
on the hill of Sant’Aniello in Caponapoli, under the foundations of the church of Santa Lucia, built on the temple dedicated to Parthenope, on the isle of Megaride, under Castel dell’Ovo.The name Naples instead, comes from Neapolis, New City, name that the Greek gave to it after the new settlement, erected in the harbour area. However to this day Naples is often called by its ancient name and the adjective Partenopeo is used to show belonging to the city. Sartoria Partenopea, in its name, brings the ancient Neapolitan tailoring tradition of which it is impeccable expression.
The origins of the city of Naples is rooted in the well-known myth of the Siren Parthenope. The Sirens charmed, with their seducing call, the passing sailors who lost control of their vessels crashing in the rocks. Ulysses made his men plug their ears with wax and tied himself to the ship’s mast. The Sirens, because of this failure, killed themselves leaping from the rocks. The dead body of the siren Parthenope was found among the rocks of Megaride (where Castel dell’Ovo stands today). The inhabitants venerated and worshiped her, and gave the village her name. Sartoria Partenopea brings the ancient Neapolitan tailoring tradition of which it is impeccable expression.
In 2006 Angelo Blasi have been awarded the title “Master of Labour”.
THE HISTORY
Angelo Blasi’s passion for tailoring is the legacy of a family that is proud of a tradition lasting over 100 years in the production of high quality suits which are exported all around
learning all the trade secrets.In 1996 he founds Sartoria Partenopea, with 30 employees, some of whom come from the old company and who decided to follow him in this new ambitious project. The passion for tailoring and the attention to the quality of garments have allowed Sartoria Partenopea to be a company always at the peak of success and in constant growth, proud of a 5000 square
Angelo Blasi begins to export his suits in Japan and USA, until he corners, with his unique style and the great quality of his creations, the Eastern market. Moreover he is one of the promoters of Classico Italia, elegant sector of Pitti, and is known in the whole fashion business.
Republic, conferred by the President of the Republic to the Italian citizens who stand out for singular merits of skill, industriousness and good moral conduct, which involve the title of “Master of Labour”.
Angelo Blasi’s passion for tailoring is the result of a proud family legacy producing and exporting high quality suits around the world. For 22 years, he honed his skill working in the family clothing business. In 1996 Blasi, along with some of his trusted family empoyees, founded Sartoria Partenopea. Passion for fine tailoring and relentless attention to quality has allowed Sartoria Partenopea to be a company always at the peak of success and in constant growth. In 2006, Angelo Blasi receives the prestigious Work Merit Star and Master of Labour title, an honor from the President of the Italian Republic to Italian citizens who stand out for singular merits of skill, industriousness, and good moral conduct.
Inspired by Passion.
20] T H E C L O T H E R I E M A G A Z I N E
In 2011, two entrepreneurs from Camponia, Vittorio Genna and Fulvio Scannapieco, joined with Anglo Blasi and his son, Mauro, in the management of Sartoria Partenopea. Angelo and Mauro Blasi’s passion and experience are strengthened by Vittorio Genna and Fulvio Scannapieco’s financial and managerial competence. The new leadership brings life to the company under the name SGB, an acronym of their three surnames. This opens a new era of development and success for the brand in the market of international luxury. The goal is to take the brand into the new millennium with renewed vigor, producing what Vittorio Genna defines as “high-flying tailoring.” Today the company is known for excellence in fashion and is proud of its strong popularity around the world. The constant consultation with the expert tailors, the attentive choice of fabric, and the creation of refined garments result in exceptional quality, the perfect combination of innovation and tradition at their best.
designer spotlight
Inspired by Passion.
22] T H E C L O T H E R I E M A G A Z I N E
The overall look for this fall and the winter beyond comes across as sleek but not restrictive. Clothes follow the body without clinging to it, so more emphasis gets placed on the natural broad-ness of the upper torso than on the narrower legs. Tailored pieces stick to a two-button silhouette, but some three-piece and dou-ble-breasted suits have also been thrown into the mix as options. As for casual clothes, pared-down classics with the occasional distinctive detailing rule. And — just in case this winter turns out anything like the last — designers have seen to it that we’ll have plenty of thick fabrics and layered effects to select from.
b y L E S L I E C . S M I T Hdesigner spotlight
h e r e a r e s o m e m o r e h i g h l i g h t s o f t h e 2014/15 m e n s w e a r s e a s o n :
t u r t l e n e c k s go anywhere and with anything. From a fine knit worn with a suit or a sportcoat to a bulkier ver-sion worn under a loose shirt, jacket or peacoat, like the one shown here. The turtleneck is one wardrobe item that consistently hits the mark.
m o h a i r p u l l o v e r s , either solidly colored or in gradu-ated ombré shades, add some welcome warmth and surface interest to your fall wardrobe. They go particularly well with this season’s new dark-wash denims.
T R E N D R E P O R Ts m a l l t o u c h e s t h a t r a c k u p b i g s t y l e p o i n t s t h i s s e a s o n
PHOTO COURTESY OF CODICE
PHOTO COURTESY OF ALBERTO
CANALI_TODD_TUFTS_Sept.indd 1 05/09/14 15:04
24] T H E C L O T H E R I E M A G A Z I N E
l a r g e c h e c k s carry on the updated grunge trend that’s been prevalent in the past few seasons. Strong red plaids and buffalo checks work well in wool over-shirts and outerwear; dark green tartans are best in jacket bodies, hats and scarves.
c r o c o d i l e is the faux skin of choice, showing up stamped into leather in out-erwear pieces, sweater trim and carry-all bags. For all other leather options — in-cluding classic motorcycle jackets fitted with heavy-duty steel zips — choose a smooth or waxed black leather.
h a n d - h e l d c a r r i e r s are growing in popularity, although twin-handled gym bags are still viable. Look for slim portfolio styles and computer cases sized for today’s tablets.
t i e s l i d e s set neckwear close to the chest, in keeping with today’s narrower suit silhouette. Because of higher vest and jacket button placements, slides are properly posi-tioned at the mid-sternum point. There are some fantastic designs out there that truly make a statement, like this dragon one, by John Hardy.
PHOTO COURTESY OF CARL GROSS
PHOTO COURTESY OF CARL GROSS
PHOTO COURTESY OF ALBERTO
PHOTO COURTESY OF ALBERTO
PHOTO COURTESY OF MASONS
v a r s i t y j a c k e t s , although pretty much unheralded by style-watch-ers, turned up in virtually every designer collection this season. These waist-length outdoor garments — most showing regular set-in sleeves but several sporting baseball-style raglan sleeves — make for perfect pairing with any casual ensemble. Whether done up in plain wool or patterned in black-and-white graphs or a houndstooth check, built in a traditional heavy melton with leather sleeves or upgraded straight to suiting fabric, offered with a classic knit stand-up collar or a fleece-enhanced fold-down collar, these bombers are da bomb — not to mention this year’s number one wardrobe draft pick.
t w o - t o n e e n s e m b l e s lighten up autumn’s generally dark palette. In a world filled with black and charcoal, a single hue can provide vital visual relief. Consider wearing an azure blue crewneck with a gray suit or a camel overcoat atop a mono-chrome black outfit. Warm furnishings — in brown shades such as caramel, cinnamon and milk chocolate, or purpled hues from plum to raisin — provide a further feast for the eyes.
26] T H E C L O T H E R I E M A G A Z I N E
t h i c k - s o l e d f o o t w e a r in both dress and casual combinations offers proportional balance to today’s slimmer trousers and the layered, sometimes boxy torsos above. Prominent welting occurs along the sides of shoes; an-kle-high boots most often come with the type of indented lug soles found on construction or hiking boots.
PHOTO COURTESY OF ALBERTO
PHOTO COURTESY OF ALBERTO
Mr_magazine__fw_formal_adv.indd 1 17/06/14 14:17
PHOTO COURTESY OF ALBERTO
designer spotlight
Cadillac’s ELR is a visual masterpiece. Its aggressive stance,
chiseled edges, and tornadic 20-inch rims give the vehicle the
impression of a stalking predator, crouched low, ready to tear
up the pavement between itself and its destination. And yet, the
Cadillac ELR is not a sports car. It is a $75,000 luxury hybrid.
The interior of the car is phenomenal in its execution. A rich
mix of materials composes the graceful sanctuary inside the
muscular beast. A beautiful micro-fiber headliner, hand-stitched
leather, gorgeous burl grain, and satin chrome accents define the
luxurious cockpit. The interior aesthetic is the perfect compliment
to that of the exterior. Dynamic lines allude to the car’s sharp
outer contours and the fine materials add to its sultry allure. In
terms of appearance, Cadillac could have hardly done better.
Cadillac got a lot of things right in creating the ELR. The car
shares many attributes with GM’s Chevrolet Volt, but adds flair
where the Volt is lacking. By going to extremes in order make
the ELR a cool hybrid, GM has accomplished a surprising feat by
making a hybrid that actually turns heads.
The ELR is fit with an astounding amount of technology. Ca-
dillac is showing us what the future looks like, and it’s looking
more and more like a car that can drive itself.
Boasting radar-driven Adaptive Cruise Control, the ELR is ca-
pable of monitoring the speed of the car in front of it and maintain-
ing a distance set by the driver. Automatic Collision Preparation
and Intelligent Brake Assist bring another level of safety to the
system. These features provide a progression of alerts, and if nec-
essary, will even apply brake pressure to bring the vehicle to a
complete stop to help avoid a collision. Yet another feature helps
the driver safely change lanes. Side Blind Zone Alert uses radar to
sweep the side of the car. If a vehicle enters your blind spot, an
icon on the outside of the rearview mirror warns you of its pres-
ence. Rear Cross-Traffic Alert functions similarly, except that the
radar scans the area behind and to the sides of the vehicle to warn
the driver of oncoming traffic through the use of haptic vibrations
delivered through the driver’s seat.
Other features focus less on safety and more on creating a
pleasant and relaxing driving experience. Bose Active Noise Can-
cellation continuously monitors generator noise and sends out
acoustically opposite signals to reduce unwanted sound in the
cabin. A laundry list of other features improves the overall com-
fort within the vehicle. The front seats of the car are adjustable
28] T H E C L O T H E R I E M A G A Z I N E
Cadillac ELR
THE ALL NEW 2015 ESCALADE
Sometimes on our journey through life, we are fortunate enough to meet those that make a lasting impression. When I remi-nisce about Greg, I feel this overwhelming gratitude for the impact he made in our friendship and the lives of so many. I hold dear...the wonderful memories and feel so blessed that our worlds connected. His presence radiated to all those he touched and he will be dearly missed. With love & sincerity ~ Paul Glans
Please call Paul Glans, General Sales Manager, at 480-386-6373 for more information.
in twenty different ways so you can truly find the most com-
fortable position for the ride. The seats are also automatically
heated when the car senses that the temperature outside is freez-
ing. There is also plenty of leg-room for those lucky enough to sit
in the front of the car, however the back seats are rather diminu-
tive and suitable only for children or contortionists.
Four distinct drive modes are available, with each serving a
different purpose. Tour Mode uses the energy stored in the bat-
tery first before transitioning seamlessly to the gas-powered gen-
erator when needed. This mode provides the smoothest ride as
well as the highest average fuel efficiency. Sport Mode is a bit of a
novelty and doesn’t drastically improve performance, but it tight-
ens the steering and suspension settings and also advances the
throttle response. Mountain Mode preserves the electric power
to be used when climbing steep grades, which can increase your
fuel efficiency when traveling through mountainous terrain. Hold
Mode reserves the charge of the battery to be used at the driver’s
discretion. It’s ideal for those who want to save electric range for
stop-and-go city driving.
Due to its increased weight, the ELR does not get the same
kind of mileage as some of the smaller hybrids, but compared
to the average sedan, it’s sure to produce and economic im-
provement. The ELR can travel thirty-seven miles exclusively
on electricity stored in the battery, which means that for daily
commutes, there’s a chance you’ll be burning no fuel. Indus-
try-leading Extended Range Electric Vehicle (EREV) technology
produces a full driving range of 340 miles through the combi-
nation of pure electric driving and an efficient, range-extending
generator. In the end, the vehicle’s fuel efficiency depends greatly
on the distance of travel — the shorter, the better.
Sadly, the aggressive appearance of the vehicle is not mim-
icked in the way it drives. With a top speed of 107 mph and little
acceleration to speak of, the ELR finally betrays its true identity
as a hybrid. What appears to be a fierce hunter is actually a rather
tame animal. However, as long as you know what to expect, the
drive is far from disappointing. The ELR is exceptionally smooth,
and its electric power steering is appropriately light. Assisted by
traction control, the car responds to inputs better than any other
front-drive hybrid on the road.
Certainly, there is a market for GM’s new luxurious hybrid.
Its sculpturesque form is sure to attract the art enthusiast more
than its performance will appeal to gear heads, but the latter
demographic lost interest at the word “hybrid,” anyway. It will
be interesting to see if Cadillac’s creation will pick up steam or
prove that the public is not yet ready for a hybrid in this price
range. For those willing to foot the bill, the ELR is an excep-
tional vehicle, designed with precision and care, and executed
to near perfection.
30] T H E C L O T H E R I E M A G A Z I N E
32] T H E C L O T H E R I E M A G A Z I N E
discomfort zone
Why should you bother? Well, because it does a person good
every once and a while to remove himself from automatic pilot,
to take the controls and do a slip-slide or a loop-de-loop, just for
the fun of it. It’s proof that he still can still shake things up a bit,
even if this only entails exchanging brown shoelaces for saffron
ones or donning a wool tie in Black Watch tartan or placing a
separate vest under a single-breasted suit.
It is true, too, that some men must summon up real nerve to
even marginally alter their wardrobe’s trajectory and that doing
so may cause them initial discomfort. For example, a guy in-
vited to a patio party daring to wear an apple-green cashmere
crewneck rather than his normal charcoal-gray wool or a salm-
on-colored windbreaker instead of a beige one could start wor-
rying about attracting too much attention. But is standing ever
so slightly apart from the crowd such a bad thing after all?
b y L E S L I E C . S M I T Hself expression
Consider as well how much awareness we actually have of other people’s attire. Odds
are, any comment that might arise would involve speculation about whether our
friend has gotten himself a fresh haircut or a new pair of glasses.
We all tend towards the familiar. But this season, try giving yourself and your wardrobe a lift by picking up at least one
clothing item that comes in a different shape, pattern, or color than you’re used to.
34] T H E C L O T H E R I E M A G A Z I N E
Once he has braved a single episode such as this and come through it
with flying colors, our guy will start to realize how small wardrobe ma-
neuvers can really kick the red needle on his confidence level into higher
RPM. Suddenly, he is wearing his clothes instead of allowing them to
wear him. There’s an added interest in getting dressed in the morning and
a fresh stride to his walk. People begin to notice these little attitudinal
differences with approval — females in particular. And any flak that hap-
pens to come his way, say, attempted ribbing from a male co-worker, can
be easily deflected by asking: “Haven’t you ever wanted to try something
new?” No matter what the co-worker’s answer, he’ll be in the wrong.
So by all means, go for the gusto. See what your dark-wash denims
look like topped with a softly constructed tweed sportcoat. Wear a pair
of socks in a bright jewel tone instead of defaulting to the regular dress
black or casual white. Check out what a slim-line or double-breasted suit
can do for you. Replace that ordinary polo knit with a turtleneck or that
solid-shaded cotton shirt with one in a royal purple gingham. Boost your
style quotient and your self-assurance will reach new heights.
Even a small change-up in your normal clothing
pattern can do you a world of good
discomfort zone
self expression
etonshirts.com – facebook.com
/etonofsweden
f ine swedi sh sh irt maker s ince 1928
Eton_ad_July.indd 1 2014-08-04 08:29
Bacall
b y T I M G R I E R S O Nscreen legend
Lauren BacaLLT H e I n c O M P a r a B L e
36] T H E C L O T H E R I E M A G A Z I N E
Even after all this time, there’s something strange about seeing Lauren Bacall in color. Maybe it’s because some of her greatest work was in film noir, but she’s always seemed better suited to black-and-white — to a bygone, romanti-cized vision of the silver screen that probably never actually existed. It’s not just me: Bacall herself longed for a career that was part of Hollywood’s early years. “If I could have lived as an actress in any period,” she once said, “it would have been the 1920s — I would have loved to have been part of that speakeasy era.” But she came of age at a different time. And then life intervened. Bacall was born in New York City in Sep-tember 1924. Her name was Betty Joan Perske, and her father, whom she refers to as a “bastard,” ran out when she was five. Bacall came from her grandmother, who was Bacal. (Lauren would come later when she moved to Hollywood.) Initially, she wanted to be a dancer, but she tried acting and modeling. “I didn’t think I was ever any good,” she told the Guardian about her modeling days. “I didn’t look at all like any of the other fabulous-looking creatures.” Her luck changed, though, when she appeared on the cover of Harper’s Bazaar in the spring of 1943. Filmmaker How-ard Hawks’s wife Nancy saw the 18-year-old on the front of the magazine and mentioned to her husband that he ought to think about casting her in something. A year later, her first film hit theaters. To Have and Have Not, the story goes, came together when Hawks made a bet with author Ernest Hemingway that he could make a movie out of Hemingway’s worst novel, which Hawks deemed to be To Have and Have Not. Whether you agree with Hawks’s assessment of the source material, the film (which differs sharply from it) is a classic, and Bacall was on her way, now dubbed Lauren due to Hawks’s prompting.
“It was Howard Hawks who changed my life,” Bacall told Vanity Fair in 2011. “Despite all of his great accomplish-ments — Bringing Up Baby, Scarface, some of the best pictures to that date — his one ambition was to find a girl and invent her, to create her as his perfect woman. He was my Svengali, and I was to become, under his tutelage, this big star, and he would own me.”
12/16/1924 - 8/12/2014
38] T H E C L O T H E R I E M A G A Z I N E
But as much as Hawks wanted to control her — and, apparently, sleep with her — he lost Bacall to her costar. When Bacall had gone to see Casablanca with her aunt a few years earlier, she hadn’t been overly impressed with Humphrey Bogart. “[Aunt] Rosalie was mad about Humphrey Bogart,” Bacall wrote in her 1978 memoir By Myself. “I thought he was good in it, but mad about him? Not at all. She thought he was sexy. I thought she was crazy.” That all changed when she filmed To Have and Have Not with Bogart. Although he was married, Bogart kissed her one night while visiting her trailer. Soon, they were an item — and soon after that, a love story onscreen mirrored one off it. As film critic Leonard Maltin described To Have and Have Not, “It’s one of these instances where it’s quite possible that we are eyewitnesses to an actor or actress falling in love, and while good actors make us believe that all the time, there has to be some extra kick when it’s real.” Fame and love were hers now, as well as the establishment of her famous persona. Smoky voice — she finally gave up cigarettes in the 1980s — but also tough, funny, and vulnerable all at once, Bacall was sexy because, even at a young age, she exuded an adult sophistication. That’s all encapsulated in the movie’s most famous line, her character Slim telling Bogart’s Steve, “You know how to whistle, don’t you, Steve? You just put your lips together and” — pausing just long enough — “blow.” It’s delivered with utter confidence and nonchalance, which is even more impressive considering how intimidated she was at first about being in front of the camera. It was Hawks’s suggestion that she calm herself by putting her chin down and looking up that gave birth to her trademark sultry stare, which suggested a lifetime of experience and street smarts in someone so young. Fresh from her star-making turn in To Have and Have Not, Bacall had other successes, costarring with Bogart in The Big Sleep — the trailer declared “They’re Together Again!” — Dark Passage, and Key Largo, all in glorious black and white. The two were married in 1945, and while she looked at their life together as some of her happiest years, it took a toll on her career. “He had told me that he wouldn’t marry me if I wanted a career,” she said in 2005. “He had been married already to three actresses, each time a disaster. And I was so mad about him I said, ‘Of course. Absolutely. I only want to be with you.’’’ She still acted — her 1950s highlights include How to Marry a Millionaire and Written on the Wind — but by the time he died in 1957, her stardom was more related to being married to Bogart than to her own fine work. “My obit is going to be full of Bogart, I’m sure,” she once said. “I’ll never know if that’s true. If that’s the way it is, that’s the way it is.” She left Los Angeles behind, moved to New York, and focused on theater. She won two Tonys for lead actress in musicals, for Applause and Woman of the Year. And she kept popping up in films — Sidney Lumet’s Murder on the Orient Express in 1974, Robert Altman’s Health in 1980 — but she seemed to have mostly left that life behind. “You can’t imagine how beautiful L.A. was then,” she said about moving to Hollywood as a young girl. “Of course, it’s all ruined now.” If movie fame had faded, her life kept marching forward. She married Jason Robards, their divorce one of the major topics covered in By Myself, which won her the National Book Award. Whether it was speaking honestly about her marriages or trying to break with the notion of how the traditional mother should behave, Bacall has never lost the toughness she portrayed onscreen at an early age. “I remember my oldest son, Steve, saying to me once, ‘I don’t ever remember seeing you with an apron on,’’’ Bacall once said. “And I thought, ‘That’s right, honey, you did not.’ That was his concept of what a mother should be.” And she’s never lost that no-nonsense attitude either. “There have always been rumors about me: Oh, she’s very difficult. Be careful of her,” she wrote in By Myself. “People who don’t know me — even some people who do know me — know that I say what I think. Very few people want to hear the truth. Bogie was like that, my mother was like that, and I’m like that. I believe in the truth, and I believe in saying what you think. Why not? Do you have to go around whispering all the time or playing a game with people? I just don’t believe in
that. So I’m not the most adored person on the face of the earth. But I wasn’t put on earth to be liked. I have my own reasons for being and my own sense of what is important and what isn’t, and I’m not going to change that.” She demonstrated that beautifully while doing press for Birth, the 2004 film that starred Nicole Kidman as a woman convinced that a ten-year-old boy is the reincarnation of her beloved dead husband. A reporter asked Bacall, a film legend, what it was like to work with Kidman, another legend. Bacall cut off the reporter: “What is this ‘legend’? [Kidman] can’t be a legend, you have to be older.” It was the sort of comment that we almost never see in the film press since celebrities are so careful not to ruffle any feathers. But it wasn’t said out of spite; it was a simple fact. “What I meant was that her career is just beginning,” Bacall later clarified to the Guardian. “She is won-derfully talented, a working actress. I hate these labels, I hate categories. Why do they have to burden her with all that? Legends are all to do with the past and nothing to do with the present.” Bacall probably understands that as well as anyone. When she shows up in a movie now, there’s a sense that a regal presence from another time has somehow beamed in to our universe. No doubt her decision to focus on being a mother and a wife curtailed her career, a choice with which professional women in many different fields must contend. But like her modest assessment of her acting ability, she seems to be at peace with how things played out. “I put my career in second place throughout both my marriages and it suffered,” she has said. “I don’t regret it You make choices.” As for her talent: “I don’t consider myself a great actress. I’m just trying to stay alive, actually. I think I’m good, and I’ve learned a lot, certainly, mostly in the theater. I’ve been sloughed off movies for years. But what can you do? That’s life.” A pretty great one, actually.
BacaLL was sexy Because, even aT a yOung age, sHe exuded an aduLT sOPHIsTIcaTIOn.
Lauren Bacall and Humphrey Bogart in To Have and Have Not
Hyde.Pk.PHX.Brand.Clotherie.2OL.indd 1 10/27/14 11:54 AM
Hyde.Pk.PHX.Brand.Clotherie.2OL.indd 1 10/27/14 11:54 AM
40] T H E C L O T H E R I E M A G A Z I N E
A high-level expert appears on CNN to discuss the first
Malaysian Airlines disaster attired in a tails-out plaid shirt,
shorts, and sandals. Elton John, now in his mid-60s, shows
up at a recent concert wearing a top-to-bottom Adidas
track suit. On every street in America, middle-aged men and
seniors alike amble about our streets wearing jeans, sweatshirts,
running shoes, and baseball caps. Yes, there’s something to be said
about being comfortable — and casual clothes that one has always
worn possess a warm familiarity about them — but is that any excuse
for your wardrobe letting the team down so badly?
There comes a certain time in life — most experts pinpoint it at around
age 35 — when wearing youth-oriented styles becomes as sad and silly as
a 80-year-old in a ponytail. It’s the same fork in the road where tattoos
stop looking cool and start people wondering if you’ve ever been to prison,
when walking around without a shirt on in the summer turns heads for all the
wrong reasons, when nobody congratulates you right after you’ve told them
that you’re wearing the same size jeans as you did in college.
Men not wanting to appear older is as endemic in America as overeating,
yet this problem receives very little media attention — likely because the bulk
of reporters and editors out there would themselves fall into the same sorry
category. So how do you carry off casual without looking like you’ve raided
your teenage son’s (or grandson’s) closet?
Well, you can begin by realizing that just because that jacket or trou-
sers, or what have you, can still technically be worn doesn’t mean you
b y L E S L I E C . S M I T Hsensible attire
50 IS THE NEW 13?Everybody gets older. So why are so many men still wearing the same casual clothes they did in their teens?
PHOTO COURTESY OF CARL GROSS
42] T H E C L O T H E R I E M A G A Z I N E
should actually wear it. Go through your dresser drawers and rigorously
get rid of any T-shirt that bears a slogan or a large logo. The same holds true
for any piece of clothing sporting the logo of a mall outlet that caters to the
under-25 crowd, as well as any piece of clothing that comes with a hood or
cargo pockets. While you’re tossing the place, if you happen to run across some
plastic shoes, up to and including high-topped athletics, Crocs, and flip-flops,
tip them in the recycling bin too.
Next, take serious stock of what’s left. That basketball/baseball/hockey/foot-
ball jersey, once it’s been cut up into small pieces, would make a great addition
to the rag bag. (We know this act will prove difficult if not impossible for you
to perform, so why not make your wife extra-happy by giving her the scissors?)
Pretty much all your other garments that flaunt athletic striping should go in a
big pile for the Goodwill box. Allow the next generation to scoop these out of
sensible attire
PHOTO COURTESY OF HETTABRETZ
PHOTO COURTESY OF CARL GROSS
/34HERITAGE /34HERITAGE /34HERITAGE
44] T H E C L O T H E R I E M A G A Z I N E
second-hand stores for their ironic content, since irony on older men
simply looks tragic. Although you may still be in pretty good shape, zippy
stripes on track pants, socks, rugger shirts, and ski jackets belong on real
athletes who could conceivably have a shot at competing in the next Olym-
pics.
By now, your casual wardrobe should be whittled down to three cot-
ton-weave shirts and your favorite pair of jeans. You love those jeans.
Sure, they’re a bit worn and torn in places and have a few stains here and
there, but you’ve broken them in just right over the years and…guess
what? Out they go. (The shirts can stay.)
Then out you go to get a new pair of denims that fit you properly
at the waist, give a bit of definition to your backside, offer a trim but
not tight line to your legs, and don’t puddle down around your heels.
Although you fondly recall how hot you looked back in the day in those
chalk white or tomato red five-pockets, do not indulge in them now.
A dark-wash indigo is classic and retains its attraction long after other,
trendier colors fade.
You will build your new, age-appropriate attire on this foundation,
choosing wisely sourced garments from a real, grown-up men’s store.
You will still look relaxed but way cooler in the eyes of others. And
whenever you require a reminder of what not to don, simply check out
what actor and comedian Russell Brand (age 40) is currently wearing.
PHOTO COURTESY OF CARL GROSS
sensible attire
46] T H E C L O T H E R I E M A G A Z I N E
Paradise IslandM A U R I T I U S
After Mark Twain was bowled over by the beauty of Mauritius, he quoted an islander, saying “that Mauritius was made first,” by God, “and then heaven.”
The island, in the Indian Ocean east of Madagascar, remains a place where luxury, charm, and character are elevated by soul. Elegant resorts among the world’s fin-est tropical hideaways vie to highlight Zen, Feng Shui, or Ayurvedic credentials, and a sense of natural harmony is as important as Givenchy spas, personal butler service, and champion-designed golf courses. Add the distinctive-ness of varying coastal resort settings, a soaring mountain backdrop here, and a genuine fishing village vibe there.
Mauritius offers all the touchstones of other tropical beacons in terms of pristine, palm-bedecked white sand beaches, blue lagoons, and a lush interior full of natural
wonders. But it adds a brilliant cultural melting pot vibe where French, British, Indian, Chinese, and Dutch influ-ences mix sweetly. If there’s a festival to be had, Mauri-tians hop aboard irrespective of which particular gods are the excuse for the party!
This cultural mix sprinkles Mauritius with historic sites many tropical getaways could only dream of. At-mospheric Buddhist temples rub shoulders with opulent Catholic shrines, while the ten-meter tall sacred Hindu statue of Shiva by the crater lake of Grand Bassin is a must-get snap. Add colonial mansions worthy of star-bill-ing in World of Interiors, plus tea and sugar plantations steeped in colorful history. This is an island truly blessed with perfect outings for travelers wanting more for their long-haul buck than uninspiring fly and flop.
tropical getaway
In Memory of a dear Friend......Thanks for the good times.
Take Eureka House, an elegant 1830 Creole mansion by the River Moka, where British and French aristocrats lived the life of Reilly amid magnificent gardens. Now you can enjoy this ravishing antique-filled time capsule stuffed with period arts and antique Chinese and Indian furniture, complemented by garden trails and river waterfalls. Refuel at the Old Kitchen restaurant with island dishes such as smoked marlin or dry beef curry with pumpkin fricassé and peanut rougaille.
For a different poke into grand colonial lifestyle, hit the 1850s Château de Labourdonnais, a tropical take on Italian neo-classical style. Its orchards and spice groves are a scented riot of nutmeg, clove, and papaya, a green paradise grazed by giant Aldabra tortoises. The chateau restaurant is excellent, and you can discover the joys of Mauritian rum by way of aperitif or digestif at the adjacent Rhumerie des Mascareignes.
If you fancy something not quite as strong, earn yourself a cuppa on the island’s Tea Trail. Founded in 1892, Bois Chéri
mauritius island
is the biggest and oldest plantation, offering a museum and a tea factory where you can taste some of its 42 varieties of tea while soaking up pan-oramic views across the south of the island. The Domaine des Aubineaux, meanwhile, centers on a colonial house decorated with 17th-century East India Company gems. Both plantations offer fantastic afternoon teas — yes, with scones — more memorable than any grand British hotel!
Make time to dip into some of the island settlements too, kicking off in the bustling 17th-century capital Port Louis. Browse upmarket duty-free stores on the Caudan Waterfront, sniff and snap in the technicolor food market, check out a real-life dodo skeleton at the Natural History Museum, and then dream of skipping across the lake of giant water lilies in the vast 300-year-old Botanic Garden. And if you’re feeling lucky, you could try and win back your airfare with a flutter at Champs de Mars, one of the world’s oldest racecourses.
Mahebourg, where the Dutch landed in 1598, was capital before Port Louis and remains a bastion of old-school Mauritian style with a pink-
48] T H E C L O T H E R I E M A G A Z I N E
tropical getaway
Beach beds, umbrella, and jetty on the beach on Mauritius Island
Sunset at a luxury Mauritus resort
Port Louis Mauritius city skyline
The beauty of the links in Mauritus
Local band playing and dancing Sega. It has origins in the music of slaves on the island and is usually sung in Creole.
Waterfalls at the park in Chamarel
paved waterfront where rustic restaurants beckon before or after a visit to the island’s main history museum, housed in dreamy 18th century splendor. Village hideaways like Triolet and Bananes, meanwhile, offer a chance to get close to daily island life with a pew at a local bar or snacking on deli-
cious street food like dhal phuri (the island’s best comes from Dewa’s in Rose Hill), while soaking up the color and hubbub of the daily food markets in almost every town. A good choice is Chamarel, whose surroundings include some of Mauritius’s top natural attractions: the verdant rainforest of the Black Gorges National Park with its range of easy hiking options, the plunging silvery thread of the Chamarel Falls, plus the surrealistic geological folding simply dubbed the Seven Coloured Earths.
After a day of intrepid exploring, take a break from your resort restaurants with a dip into the island’s fine dining scene. Domaine de Bel Ombre (domainedebelombre.mu) is a candlelit restaurant set in a colonial mansion where fusion platters might include pheasant with tamarind confit. Reservations are essential; try for a balcony table. Or to try unforgettable Mauritius-style Chinese, head for Domaine Anna (domaineanna.net) in the middle of a cane field, approached on a torch-lit path. While it’s open for lunch, treat yourself to dinner in thatched waterside gazebos amid tropical gardens.
tropical getaway
mauritius island
For more luxe living, intimately memorable experiences abound through local operators such as Mauritius Attractions (mauritiusattrac-tions.com). Book a gastronomic dinner cruise on a luxury 1920s motor yacht departing nightly from Pointe aux Canonniers for fine dining on the ocean wave, or enjoy a taste of the high life by skipping off and over the water on an exclusive seaplane tour.
For a chance to swim with dolphins in the open sea rather than the shallows, consider a speedboat excursion to Benitiers Island that also includes alfresco lunch on the beach. Or go for an underwater sea walk! It’s ideal for non-divers. You’re whisked by speedboat from Grand Baie to a northern lagoon for a four-meter descent into a world of dazzling coral and curious tropical fish. Breathing and every other necessity is taken care of. You don’t even have to remove your glasses, though no one really needs to trouble Specsavers to see that Mark Twain chap was probably right about Mauritius and paradise.
T H E C L O T H E R I E M A G A Z I N E [49
Eureka Colonial House
Saint Aubin estate in Mauritius, the last
stop of the famous tea route
Giant Turle,Domaine du Chasseur
beyond the
b y L E S L I E C . S M I T Hmen’s fashion
Look closely — from tighty-whities to tube socks, you’ll notice that funda-
mental furnishings now often rise above the ordinary replacement market. One
look at their packaging will show you just how much structural engineering and
specialized fabrication has been expended on their design.
Men’s sock manufacturers, for example, boast of improved staying power with
less of that restrictive, elastic-y feeling. Toes, too, can be bolstered to avoid early
wear-through. The makers of men’s underwear, meanwhile, proudly detail how
waistbands and leg holes have been reformulated so as not to roll and pinch,
even while they prevent sagging and gapping over longer periods of usage. Mois-
ture-wicking properties have been added to the fabric to avoid chafing, and front
pouches feature reinforced seams for an easier fit.
Wardrobe fundamentals aren’t from Kansas any more
Wardrobe fundamentals aren’t from Kansas any more
basics
PHOTO COURTESY OF PANTHERELLA50] T H E C L O T H E R I E M A G A Z I N E
52] T H E C L O T H E R I E M A G A Z I N E
fundamental fashionLike the classic film The Wizard of Oz, ordinary black and white and
gray gives way to a rich panoply of colors and patterns, particularly where socks are concerned. Today’s hose knows how to rock the house with saturated solids and multi-hued polka dots, chevrons and stripes. Over the past couple of years, retailers have witnessed an explosion of con-sumer interest in interesting socks, worn with both casual and tailored ensembles. It’s as if everybody finally got the group email about ankle art being a great way to express your personality without overwhelming the rest of your outfit.
Another stealthy shift away from the everyday can be found inside the collars and cuffs of new dress shirts. Many labels jazz up these interior areas with offbeat shades and patterns — bold paisleys, stripes, or dots. The material’s mimicry of neckwear fabrics is no mere coincidence. When the shirt is worn buttoned up with a real tie attached, it represents the model of decorum. But remove the tie, pop open the collar and roll the cuffs, and suddenly you’ve got on a shirt with just enough visual stimula-tion to say “casual” and “business” in the same breath.
Away from the office, nothing could be more down-home than chil-laxing in a pair of sweatpants. Designers have recognized this fact and are now dealing with it in a manner pleasing to both the wearer and others around him. Luxury loungewear is a growing category, offering sweats that everyone can get into. You’ll see the same drawstringed, elasticized waistband and gray-shaded knit format, but the fabric itself will be of the very best — double-faced cashmere for the most part; even light suede or suiting flannel can apply.
Yes, as you’ve guessed, you will pay a higher price for these pants, shirts, underwear, and socks that move beyond the usual basic replace-ment market. But remember, too, all of these items are worn directly next to the skin. Apart from upping your stylishness, you’ve got the best reason in the world not to stint: your own quite personal comfort.
PHOTO COURTESY OF HAUPT
beyond thebasics
54] T H E C L O T H E R I E M A G A Z I N E
NYCnew years city
T H E C L O T H E R I E M A G A Z I N E [55
NYC imes Square has been the site of huge New Year’s Eve celebrations for the public since 1904. In that year, Adolph Ochs, publisher of the New York Times, used the inaugural festivities to publicize his newspaper’s new
25-story headquarters, which had moved from Park Row near City Hall in the Financial District to the intersection of Seventh Avenue, Broadway, and 42nd Street.
In honor of the newspaper’s move to the area then called Longacre Square, the intersection was renamed Times Square. On April 8, 1904, New York Mayor George McClellan presided over the square’s official opening. In 1904 this relatively sparsely occupied area was well positioned to become a bustling place. On October 27, 1904, the IRT (Interborough Rapid Transit) subway officially began running from City Hall to 145th Street and Broadway. This nine-mile route served 28 stations. One was Times Square. IRT service expanded to the Bronx in 1905, to Brooklyn in 1908, and to Queens in 1915. By the late 1920s, five bus routes, eleven surface lines, four elevated train lines, five subway lines, and a ferry all had stops or terminals on 42nd Street, according to Alexander Reichel in his book Reconstructing Times Square.
On December 31, 1904, the Times celebrated the new year with fireworks at midnight. The newspaper estimated that 200,000 people crowded Times Square. In prior years, the public place to be on New Year’s Eve in the city was in Lower Manhattan near Trinity Church, where church bells rang to bring in the new year. But church officials were happy to see the celebration move away, because the crowd was frequently unruly.
Beginning in 1907, the Times started lowering a lighted ball from a flagpole to celebrate the event because city officials decided to ban fireworks for safety reasons. The idea of the ball drop came from the Western Union Company, according to Michelle Nevius and James Nevius in their book Inside the Apple: A Streetwise History of New York City. Each day at noon, Western Union lowered a metal ball from atop its headquarters on Lower Broadway.
Made of iron and wood, that first Times Square ball weighed 750 pounds. Even though the Times’ move in 1914 was not its last, the location of the ball drop has never changed, although the ball did not drop in 1942 and 1943 because of the blackouts
of World War II. Instead, organizers held a minute of silence and then played a recording of bells ringing. The ball has seen several evolutions over the years. By late 2012, it was12 feet in diameter and weighed 11,875 pounds. More than 2,600 Waterford Crystal triangles covered the entire outer surface. The ball drops about 70 feet during the one-minute countdown.
Beginning in 1956 and continuing through 1976, bandleader Guy Lombardo led his band in a televised New Year’s Eve celebration from various hotels in the city. About five minutes before midnight, the broadcast switched to Times Square, where a reporter covered events there before returning to Lombardo’s live music. But Lombardo had a long history of involvement with New York’s Eve broadcasts. Even before television, he had led his band in annual radio broadcasts, beginning on December 31, 1928.
Today, people interested in watching the event have multiple options. One could choose to join the crowd in the streets. The event is free, and no tickets are required. Police usually start directing pedestrian traffic to viewing locations around 3:00 p.m., although this time is subject to change. As the crowd grows, the streets uptown from 43rd Street all the way to Central Park fill with people. But be warned, no portable restrooms are available for this hearty gathering of humanity. For people assembled in Times Square, the show officially ends at 12:15 a.m, and crowds clear fairly quickly (probably to the nearest public restrooms).
Another option would be to find a vantage point with a little more service. Scores of nearby restaurants and clubs invite paying customers inside to eat, drink, and ring in the new year. Of course, reservations are highly recommended.
If you’re not planning to attend in person, organizers of the event promise hours of live streaming via a free app for owners of Android mobile devices and the iPhone, iPod Touch, and iPad. And of course, most of us will join the party via television. Beginning in 1972, Dick Clark, television producer and creator of American Bandstand, covered the ball drop in Times Square for a worldwide television audience. Currently aired by ABC, the most recent edition of Dick Clark’s New Year’s Rockin’ Eve is hosted by Ryan Seacrest, the principal host since 2005. Clark passed away in April 2012.
T H E E V O L U T I O N O F T I M E S S Q U A R E
56] T H E C L O T H E R I E M A G A Z I N E
techtoyzspotlight
Gone are the days (and nights) where we sink our heads into our smart-phones, iPads, and computers, dipping into the data pool that so consumes us and keeps us from getting out there and living in the real world! Hooray! Google Glass has arrived! Er, nearly so anyways. According to Google, Glass was created to “be there when you need it and get out of your way when you don’t.” The first Glass units have been with early adopters (who had to sign up to a lottery for the privilege) since April 2013, and Google is using this semi-public testing period to fine-tune the device for general consumption, as well as get the world used to the idea of wearables. But time is ticking, and the general public is getting anxious to dive into this new tech toy.
What is Google Glass?
Google Glass is a wearable computer built into spectacle frames so that you can perch a display in your field of vision, film, take pictures, search, and translate on the go, as well as run specially designed apps. These spectacles might just be a spectacle of design and style too! Google has just inked a deal with Italian eyewear powerhouse Luxxotica to design future frames.Google Glass uses a miniature display to put data in front (or at least, to the upper right) of your field of vision, courtesy of a prism screen. The screen is designed to be easily seen without obstructing your view. Glass responds to voice commands, as well as taps and gestures on the touch-sensitive bar that runs along the side of the frame. You can start a search with “Ok Glass,” and take a photo or launch an app with a command phrase or a tap of your finger. Google Glass runs a version of Android, so developers can easily create apps that take advantage of its unique display and input methods. The early Google Glass apps provide a neat glimpse into the potential of the headset. You’ll be able to use Google Maps to get directions, although without a built-in GPS receiver, you’ll need to tether Glass to your smartphone. Several third-party developers have announced apps for services, in-cluding Evernote, Skitch, and Path. Apps being developed include those that could pop up news headlines on request or an airline app to show how much time is left before you have to board your flight. Google has snapped up voice specialists DNNresearch, whose voice recognition tech could give Glass the ability to translate words being spoken to you into your own language on the display. Obviously you’ll need a WiFi connec-tion or a hefty data plan if you’re in another coun-try, but it’s certainly a neat trick if it works.
Stylish Design
Glass is designed to be lightweight and as unobtrusive as possible. The frame will come with adjustable pads for comfort and is strong but light. It features a touchpad along one arm for silent interaction.
Google is trialing several different designs that will enable Glass to be attached to existing frames for those who already wear glasses. The deal with Luxxotica leaves us to believe that future glasses will be more natural in appearance.
Google Glass Specs
Current versions of Glass offer a 640 x 360 display. According to Goo-gle, the display is “the equivalent of a 25-inch high definition screen from eight feet away.” A 5-megapixel camera that can capture video at 720p res-olution is built into the frame. The rechargeable battery lasts for about a full day of fun, although that’s with the standard typical use caveat, which probably excludes a lot of video capture or playback. There are 16GB of flash memory built into the device, although only 12GB is currently available for user storage. The device will sync to your Google Drive, giving you a place to stash your photos and video clips as well as documents and files you can call up from the cloud. Bluetooth and Wi-Fi will be built in, but there is no GPS chip, so the Glass will probably work best alongside an Android phone for full Google Maps functionality. You can, however, pair it with any Bluetooth-enabled phone, and we would expect some support for iOS at least. Sound will be produced through bone conduction transfer — vibrating your skull to transmit to your eardrum. An optional mono earbud will be available as well.
Google Glass currently comes in five colors: charcoal, tangerine, shale, cotton, and sky.
Consumer versions to come could
offer a different palette.
technology
JAC
KV
ICT
OR
.CO
M
JV_Tufts_Half_F2014_1.indd 1 14-07-25 12:52 PM
58] T H E C L O T H E R I E M A G A Z I N E
Whisky has its own liquid poetry. Sip it and you talk, or sing. My Scottish cousins can be almost eloquent about the drink it-self. It is, they say, an education. As richly cultural as wine.
This started me thinking. If wine has terroir — the special traditions, soils, sunny hillsides that end up affecting its taste on your tongue — what about alcohol distilled from grain? Would it matter if it came from sacks of barley that had ma-tured in Indiana? Or did Scotland and Ireland (supposedly the birthplace of the drink, with records dating back to 1405) have something no one else could claim?
I began to map out a trip to those distillery-dotted coun-tries to try to find out. But since I am a whisky amateur, not an aficionado, I’d want to get a full-fledged vacation out of my route. It wouldn’t be a string of cellar tastings. I wanted plates of potatoes and meat pies in pubs, philosophical walks by the sea, and whatever local quirks I could find.
Landing in Dublin, I am met by morning and by rain. I head directly to the first distillery on my list. This one belongs to Jameson, and it’s a replica of how its Bow Street warehouse might have looked when Irish whisky was made here back in the 1780s, when the company was founded.
Unlike Scotches, which are double distilled, Irish whiskies are distilled three times for smoothness, and I’m especially eager to see what Jameson has to show visitors since it’s cur-rently North America’s most-requested brand. One of the things it has are mannequins like you might see in a museum. Replica workers stack up barrels. Realistic cats glare at tour-ists, guarding the grain.
One of the best parts for me is learning a little about the label’s master barrel-makers, or coopers. I pore over a list of cooper nicknames. “Duck-Egg” Byrne was an admired crafts-man here. “Snowball” Mills another. Not to mention the leg-endary “Nizzler” Brannigan. None of them seem to be on duty at the moment. But, well, I can tell, these are men I would have liked to drink with.
I catch a bus the next morning for County Cork to check out Jameson’s Midleton distillery, about 160 miles southwest.
It’s been drizzling throughout the night and there’s so much green in the landscape that even tree-trunks seem tinged with it. This could be moss, I think. Or it could be jet lag.
b y P E T E R M A N D E Lwine and spirits
WHISKYTRAIL
ON THE
Lightning in a bottle.By the time we arrive, I’m more than ready for a dram. It
turns out I am not disappointed. Along with other samples, I enjoy some sips of 12-year-old Midleton Distillery Reserve, which eases down as if it were a rare and gentle sherry. Ac-cording to the guide who’s pouring, Irish whisky is not just a popular drink at the moment — “It’s on fire.” It’s a lighter taste, he tells us, than Scotches. “Easier drinking. A gateway, you might say, for the ladies.”
On to Kilbeggan in County Westmeath, which, I’ve read, dates back to the mid-1700s. It’s one of two distilleries in Ireland that bill themselves as the oldest in the world. Here I find some tastes of the history I’ve been craving. There’s a waterwheel from the 19th century that creaks and splashes as it turns, and I’m delighted that a good chunk of the origi-nal machinery is still in place, including an old steam engine which roars into action on special days.
After my time at Kilbeggan, I do a tour and tasting at the last Irish distillery on my list, Bushmills, which has a list of regulations for us lucky visitors: No mobile phones, no pictures, and no food allowed. But, should we require them, “ear protectors are available on request.” Bushmills, we discover, scoffs at Kilbeggan’s lineage, bragging that its own roots go back even farther, to 1608. I don’t have hopes of sorting this battle out, and I depart from Bushmills to continue my journey.
For my Scotch whisky tastings, I head for Islay (pronounced “eye-lah”), the southernmost island in Scotland’s Inner Heb-rides, which is only about 25 miles north of the Irish coast. Sometimes called the Queen of the Hebrides, Islay is known
Shots of courage.
Exclusive fabric by Loro Piana, “Extreme”
for its strong peaty flavors. Scotches distilled here tend to be single malts, as opposed to the blends I’ve mostly encoun-tered in Ireland.
Instead of flying or boarding a ferry, I chip in for a share of a charter boat with some other Americans I’ve met. What we get is something called the Kintyre Express — a Storm Force–brand rigid inflatable speedboat. In minutes, we are shooting spray and ricocheting off the tops of whitecaps. This may be the Irish Sea, but in the glinting sunlight, it says Scotland, Scotland, Scotland: it is as blue as a loch.
My first Scottish distillery feels more convoluted than what I’ve seen so far. A study in shiny brass and scoured copper, Laphroaig is almost steampunk, with its valves and pipes and dials. If Willie Wonka owned a distillery instead of a choco-late factory, this would be it.
My tastes here are on the strong side. I feel like I’m swal-lowing liquid oysters that have been smoked over an open fire. But the label’s freshly whitewashed buildings and wa-terfront views make me linger long into the evening before heading to town.
Islay is a place of gorse and green. Bumps and ripples of land are neatly carpeted, and along the island’s sandy edge, flocks of sheep and clumps of cattle come very close to the sea. At the Bowmore distillery, the tour guide lets us climb up to the kiln that’s used for drying barley and pad around on the beach-like dunes of grain. One ingenious man flops down to wave his arms and make a barley angel — something everyone then has to try.
I’m down to my trip’s last dregs. One more tasting to do, at Lagavulin, and it is a good one. Maybe it is the coziness of carpet, the plates of marmalade and jam, a pre-drink bite of a scone, but the whiskies here turn out to be my favorites of all, including a 16-year-old single malt that seems a perfect blend of Irish easiness and Scottish strength of character: something distinctive in the nose and, slowly, sunset-to-gloaming, sliding down.
As we tourists complete our work with rows of glasses, we’re told to blurt out impressions of what is on the tongue. I’d like to shout my own impressions, but it would not go well. I realize that my tastes are strange. They’re mixed up with the names of coopers. With a mill wheel. With not quite seeing the puffins. With grain angels. And with nighttime rain. “Ireland!” I might yell. Or “Islay!” Everyone would turn. And I would have to try, with my final sips, to explain.
60] T H E C L O T H E R I E M A G A Z I N E
Outside Laphroaig distillery: a view of Laphroaig Bay
Lagavulin Distillery, located in Islay, Scotland
Bottoms up.
62] T H E C L O T H E R I E M A G A Z I N E
You know the old saying that if a deal seems too good to be true, it usually is? In recent years, we’ve all witnessed the rise of come-ons from retail outlets promising two, three, four, or more suits at a price you might consider unrealistically low for even one ensemble. You don’t have to be a genius to smell something peculiar about this situation, nor do you need to see the recent Saturday Night Live commercial parody suggesting these “disposable” suits are “cheaper to use than paper towels” to know that the quality is just not there. So, in honor of another comedy legend, David Letterman (due to retire this year), we present our top ten list of reasons why 2-fer suits are toxic to your sartorial health:
10. They might actually be toxic. You have no idea where the materials for these suits come from nor what kind of chemical treatments they’ve undergone. The retailer selling them likely has no idea either. Worst-case scenario, they could also prove, as the SNL sketch implies, to be highly flammable.
9. The suit’s label might truthfully claim 100% wool status. But what kind of wool is it and how short are its fibers? The poorer and shorter the fiber staple, the itchier and heavier a cloth feels on your body. Carpets, for example, can come in pure wool, but would you want to wear one? Material made from low-quality fibers offers zero resistance to wrinkling, and ordinary usage could cause the fabric to pill and pull away.
8. Instead of solid stitching, the bodies of these suits are mainly assembled with glue — not a terrific selling point should you require longevity past the first two months. On the plus side, they make for great tear-away garments if you happen to be a male stripper.
7. The suits’ collars and lapels are likewise glued. Try having them steamed or cleaned just once and see how quickly they become covered in unsightly, pimply bubbles.
6. The jacket’s interior construc-tion comes fused to its outer fabric, providing a stiff, unnatural appear-ance and allowing its owner about as much freedom of movement as a straitjacket.
5. An ensemble might look all right in a 30-second TV commercial. You, however, live in real time in the real world. You are not a fashion model and you can’t appear in public with half-hidden dress pins giving your gar-ment its agreeable shape.
4. Even with alterations, there is no way your suit’s collar, lapels, and chest won’t gape like a yokel’s mouth on his first visit to the big city.
3. Although the price might seem like the deal of the century, the wear simply isn’t there. If you amortize the cost of a proper suit over several years’ use, you’ll find it represents the much better bargain.
2. A good suit will conform to your body and fit even better over time. The best a bad suit ever looks is on its first day on the hanger. Every day that follows will be all downhill.
And the number one reason why you should never buy a cheap suit…
1. You’ll know you are wearing it. Nothing undermines a man’s confi-dence more than the sure and certain knowledge that he is faking it.
b y L E S L I E C . S M I T Hfashion don’ts
on the Cheap 10 good reasons to avoid 2-Fer suits like the plague
C O D I C E
Circle of Gentlemen
Circle of Gentlemen The Circle of Gentlemen company history officially dates back
to 2006, when two childhood friends launched a new kind of shirt.
The two founders, Janjaap van Gent and Michel van Kommer, de-
fied the trends of their time by creating a shirt collection featuring
high collars. Their design came straight from the heart and opposed
fashion trends which featured low collared shirts. The shirts were
designed with innovative technology that allowed the collar to stand
up straight; even after washing the shirt, there was no need to press
the collar! This type of collar was unique to its time and for that
reason, the company was successful in obtaining a patent for it. With
this innovation, they responded to a gap in the menswear market
and gained exclusivity within the entire fashion industry.
After achieving great success in The Netherlands and Belgium,
the owners decided it was time to take the collection to a whole
new level in the fashion world. They added contrast designs which
included paisley, florals and graphic prints, to the inside of the collar
stands. In the blink of an eye they went from a relatively unknown
brand to a brand making lots of noise in the fashion industry, chang-
ing the “appearance of the street view”. In only a few years, Circle of
Gentlemen expanded their distribution extensively throughout Eu-
rope and North America and created an internationally recognized
premium menswear brand.
Today, after eight successful years of business, Circle of Gentle-
men has evolved into a full men’s collection. With more than five
hundred points of retail in the upper-mid and high-level fashion
stores throughout the world, the brand takes pride in the level of
uniqueness for each detail and design. Circle of Gentlemen is con-
sidered to be an elegant and premium menswear brand that manag-
es to put a personal touch to the way they design.
64] T H E C L O T H E R I E M A G A Z I N E
designer spotlight
giving ofthe phoenix sunsCharitable
Phoenix Suns Charities was launched with the simple vision to give
every child in Arizona the opportunity to maximize his or her potential.
For 27 years, the Suns’ philanthropic arm has done just that, answering
the most pressing needs of Arizona children and their families. Almost
$15 million has been donated to 200+ charitable organizations.
Here are a few stories directly from kids’ whose lives have been
touched by the generous donations of Suns’ fans everywhere, who
have truly given from the heart:
To Steven Hunter, former Suns player and Community Ambassador
after speaking to young people at ‘Release the Fear’, “Thank you for
sharing your life lessons and your heart.” – E
“Thank you Phoenix Suns Charities for supporting the Be A Leader
Foundation 2013. We are the LEADERS of tomorrow!”
Joseph at the Ed Robson Family Branch Boys & Girls Club writes,
“I am sending a 5 All-Star Thank You for allowing me to discover my
love for basketball and find my family on the court.”
Phoenix Suns Charities and its donors truly do have a HUGE heart
for kids. While the Phoenix Suns organization donates tickets, sports
memorabilia, and thousands of community involvement hours to sup-
port Valley children each year, Suns Charities raises money to fund
important programs run by hundreds of non-profits that serve chil-
dren and families in most need. In addition to utilizing Suns’ resourc-
es to minimize expenses and maximize returns to our community,
Phoenix Suns Charities sports an all-volunteer board that thoughtful-
ly stewards the work of the charity. In the year ahead, an all-employee
committee of the Suns will read and select a majority of the grants in
order to better connect Suns Charities with the community efforts of
our dedicated employees.
In 2013, Phoenix Suns Charities’ annual $100,000 ‘Playmaker
Award’ grant was awarded to The Boys and Girls Club of the East Val-
ley so they could resurface all 8 of their basketball courts which can
now be safely used by over 74,000 children and families annually. Ad-
ditionally, in continuing support of Robert Sarver’s vision to improve
the graduation rate at Valley schools, the PSC Board of Directors ap-
proved additional funding of $150,000 to Central High School. Execu-
tive Director, Robin Milne, along with Suns Charities’ board members,
Suns broadcaster, Tom Leander, and Central High Principal, John Bi-
era, are continuing into year 3 of a program deemed “SunsCentral” that
has added teachers to classrooms in partnership with ASU iTeach AZ,
placed a focus on the individual through an enrichment series, and pro-
vided teachers and students with incentives to boost graduation rates
and the likelihood of a higher education.
Phoenix Suns Charities counts on its most generous donors, our
‘Playmakers,’ for their leadership gift of $100,000+ over 4 years to
provide the platform for our Suns’ family of marketing partners, Suns
Charities’ 88 business professionals, and loyal Suns fans to add to the
donation pool. These community visionaries know that together, and
with the future of our community in the hands of our young people,
each and every donation to Suns Charities builds a stronger tomorrow.
Questions or comments regarding Phoenix Suns Charities should be directed to Robin
Milne, Executive Director. 602.379.7948 or [email protected]
phoenix philanthropy
66] T H E C L O T H E R I E M A G A Z I N E
Greg and Mikki have been clients of ours for 14+ years and we've been regular customers at The Clotherie. We have
always admired how Greg ran his business which is the way we run ours... with Honesty, Integrity, and with a "What can we do? How can we help you?" attitude. Greg was a
class act, a true gentleman, and Greg truly was "the nicest guy you ever wanted to meet".We will miss him greatly and
will never forget Greg Eveloff.
A Tribute to Greg Eveloff
www.spivakfinancial.comSecurities and Advisory Services offered through Centaurus Financial. Inc., a registered broker/dealer member FINRA and
SIPC. Supervisor Branch: 2300 E. Katella Avenue Ste 200, Anaheim, CA 92806 (714) 456-1790. Centaurus Financial andThe Spivak Financial Group are not affiliated companies.
Greg and Mikki have been clients of ours for 14+ years and we've been regular customers at The Clotherie. We have
always admired how Greg ran his business which is the way we run ours... with Honesty, Integrity, and with a "What can we do? How can we help you?" attitude. Greg was a
class act, a true gentleman, and Greg truly was "the nicest guy you ever wanted to meet".We will miss him greatly and
will never forget Greg Eveloff.
A Tribute to Greg Eveloff
www.spivakfinancial.comSecurities and Advisory Services offered through Centaurus Financial. Inc., a registered broker/dealer member FINRA and
SIPC. Supervisor Branch: 2300 E. Katella Avenue Ste 200, Anaheim, CA 92806 (714) 456-1790. Centaurus Financial andThe Spivak Financial Group are not affiliated companies.