Jungdung Kangri 6160m Expedition 2013 PXR

SummeryIn August 2013 James Monypenny (UK) & Cory Hall (Canada) established two new routes to the

central and true summits of Jungdung Kangri. They also came close to completing a third new route on the face. This is the post expedition report.

ContentsThe North Face of the unclimbed Jungdung Kangri 6060m...................................................................1

Summery...............................................................................................................................................1

Objective...........................................................................................................................................3

Background information....................................................................................................................3

Location.............................................................................................................................................3

Approach...........................................................................................................................................3

Previous expeditions to the area.......................................................................................................3

Red tape............................................................................................................................................3

Style...................................................................................................................................................3

Backup...............................................................................................................................................4

The team...........................................................................................................................................4

Contact details...................................................................................................................................4

Budget...............................................................................................................................................4

Note...................................................................................................................................................4

Appendix...............................................................................................................................................5

Maps..................................................................................................................................................5

...........................................................................................................................................................6

Other useful maps and guides.......................................................................................................6

Logistics Company.............................................................................................................................7

History – peaks climbed.....................................................................................................................7

References / Sources of Information:................................................................................................7

Photo Gallery.....................................................................................................................................8

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.........................................................................................................................................................17

Relevant experience of the team.....................................................................................................17

ObjectiveThe previously Unclimbed and Un-attempted Jungdung Kangri 6160m.

Background informationSheltering in the rain shadow of higher Himalayan peaks, the Nubra Valley is a (almost) high altitude desert, often expedition-friendly when other areas are drenched by monsoon. It was opened to foreign expeditions as recently as 1994, and remains relatively unfrequented. The village of Hundar is close to the restricted zone, valleys further west are currently inaccessible unless accompanied by the appropriate number of India climbers and with the IMF and military permission. There are still many 5-6000 meter peaks that remain unclimbed. It would seem that Jungdung Kangri is the prize of the area, and has not been attempted due to its technical natural, lack of easy decent, and lack of knowledge of its existence. See the Appendix section for a list of peaks that have been climbed in the area.

LocationJungdung Kangri is situated between two previously climbed peaks of Dawa 5,890m and samgyl 5,810m. Jungdung Kangri is located between the Palzampiu Tokpo valley (to the NW) and the Sniamo Valley (to the SE). These valleys are part of the Ladakha mountain range.

ApproachFly from Deli to Leh or travel to Leh by bus via manali (this road is long and arduous, yet scenic; if you have the time it’s excellent by motor bike). 5 hour drive, by shared Jeep, from Leh over the Kardung La pass, into the Nubra Valley to the village of Diskit. 1 hour Taxi ride to Hundar (3150m). At the time of writing there is a jeep track still under construction from Hundar to Wachan. Enquire in Diskit or Hundar regarding the possibility of taking a Jeep to Wachan. Otherwise it is a five hour walk on a well-defined path from Hundar to Wachan. There a several small houses at Wachan in which it is possible to stay the night. At Wachan the Thanglasgo and Palzampiu Tokpo valleys meet. Several more hours walking up the Palzampiu Tokpo valley and traverse left into a smaller valley leading to the base of Jungdung Kangri. Near the foot of the glacial moraine there is flat grassy areas with running water and near by cragging on good rock; an ideal BC.

Previous expeditions to the areaThere have been a number of previous expeditions to visit the area, those by westerner groups have been with the UK based Expedition companies BSES and Jagged Globe from 2007 onward. Therefore a number of non-technical peaks have been climbed in recent years. See the appendix for a list of previous expeditions and the peaks climbed. A few expedition companies are starting to visit the Nubra Valley area but are mainly operating on the North South Traverse of the Thanglasgo valley (a six day trek) with two days to access the area and three days to acclimatise in Leh.

Red tapeIn order to access the area, an inner line permit is required (to cross the Kardung La pass and to enter the Nubra Valley) as well as a permit from the IMF. To gain an inner line permit many trekking agencies in Leh can assist. Several ILP’s may be required in order to stay for several weeks. Some of the well-connected trekking agencies may be able to acquire just one extended ILP. Permission from the IMF should be gained before departing, however the IMF’s representative in Leh (named Sri Sonam Wangyal) may be able to issue permission, but this is by no means a guarantee and may well require a bottle or two of whiskey and listening to allot of his stories about climbing and athletics.

For peaks below 6500m peak fees are $500 for a team of two, and $200 for each extra team member.

StyleWe took no bolts, and no fixed rope. Of the three routes we climbed, the two “non-face” routes were climbed in a single push, alpine style. We occasionally used pitons, and of course left some anchors on our decent. On the face we climbed in Alpine-big-wall style, with the second jugging and carrying the one pack.Future teams attempting the face may need to consider a bolt kit; unless very experience aid climbers.

EquipmentWe used a larger three man tent as a BC, and a single skin tent on the glacier as an ABC. We used a jet boil whilst climbing on the face & at ABC and otherwise used an MSR multi fuel stove at BC. Fuel canisters are available in Leh, as is petrol. We bought all our food in Diskit, where an adequate range of food items are available. We had a healthy sized rack, 60m halfs and one single, jumars, pitons, micro wires and nuts, aiders etc. The Swiss map of the area is available in Leh, or just print out a copy from this report. I’d recommend a warmish boot eg. Phantom guides or baturas. I used spantiks and my feet were always adequately warm (apart from our unplanned bivi).

WeatherThe weather nearly always came from the south east or the south. Many days it was cloudy, and would often snow in other valleys but not too much in our valley. In our three weeks there it got progressively colder and seemed to snow more frequently. The snow flurries where never to strong or violent, and did not prevent us from climbing on our successful routes, however strong spindrift and worsening storm clouds formed a large reason for our retreat from the face.

The teamJames Monypenny 25, UK.Cory Hall 25, Canada.See the appendix for information on the teams climbing CV.

Contact detailsName: James MonypennyEmail Address: jamesmonypenny@hotmail.com james@gibbon-adventures.co.uk Phone Number: (+44) 01276858696

New routes

ItineraryAugust 17th Travel Leh – Diskit – Hundar.18th- Walk from Hundar to Brok Yoma19th Walk Brok Yoma to Base camp.20th Climb on base camp crag21st Walk to ABC22nd Climb Central summit via “The Shaft of Justice” TD+23rd Return to Base camp24th & 25th Rest days26th Walk to ABC27th-28th Face attempt29th Return to base camp30th-31st rest at base camp1st return to ABC2nd Climb the True summit via the “Monypenny – Hall of fame” route.3rd return to base camp4th Walk to Brok Yoma5th Walk to Hundar and return to Leh.

Budget-Costs are Per Person:Travel to and from country: £650 for international flightsTravel within country: £250 (Including £150 flights from Delhi to Leh)Peak fees and Liaison Officer Expenses if appropriate: £20 Inner line permits Logistics fees $100Local employment costs: £70 Mules and Mule handlers. Food and accommodation in country: £300Insurance costs: £349Miscellaneous (details and costs): £55 visa, £10 fuel.

Appendix

Maps

Figure 1 Map of the Nubra Valleys

Other useful maps and guidesThe area is well mapped to 1:150000 and the maps are GPS compatible generally, the detail on the complicated terrain however is not great and some peaks are not even indicated.

MapLadakh Zanskar North, 1:150,000, GPS compatible, published by Editions Olizane. Available from Stanfords Bookshop in London.

GuidesLonely Planet Guide to India Trekking in Ladakh by Charlie Loram, Trailblazer Publication Trekking and Climbing in the Indian Himalaya by Harish Kapadia, Trekking & Climbing Guides.

Logistics CompanyWe have been in contact with, and will most likely use Rimo Expeditions to help with permits, transport and Mules.Rimo ExpeditionsMotup and Yangdu, Hotel

Figure 3 Map including the Approach, & BC in Palzampiu Tokpo Vally

Figure 2 Map of Primary Objective "JungDung Kangri" point 6,060m

Kanglhachen Complex, Leh,Ladakh – 194 101, J&K Indiawww.rimoexpeditions.com

History – peaks climbed Jagged Globe Expedition in 2007 Yangchan Kangri (5,710m)

Jagged Globe Expedition 2008 Mani Kangri (5,742m)

Jagged Globe Expedition 2009 Sahib Chasa (6,078m) & Unnamed Peak (5,700m) from Thanglasgo Valley

Jagged Globe Expedition 2011 Singh Kangri (5,900m)

Jagged Globe Expedition 2012 Daha Ri (6,150m) and Bhote Ri (6,151m).

Dawa Peak - 5,890m – First ascent in the late 1990’s by Dawa Sherpa.

Samgyal - 5,810m - First ascent by Samgyal Sherpa in the late 1990’s.

Geshi - 5,500m+ - Climbed within last 3 years by Rimo and Jagged Globe.

Kangsalmathung - 5,770m -Climbed by Jagged Globe and Rimo in August 2007, from the south.

Peak 3 - 5,980m – Attempts recorded from the North in 1930’s summited by BSES team in

August 2008.

Peak 2 - 5,717m Climbed by BSES group in 2008

Other sources of Information:Chris Horobin’s Thanglasgo Valley Expedition report 2010http://aaj.americanalpineclub.org/climbs-and-expeditions/asia/india/ladakh-zanskar/2010-thanglasgo-valley-peak-5850m-by-c-horobin/

Chris Horobin’s Blog, 2011 BSES expedition Nubra valleyhttp://chrishorobin.wordpress.com/ladakh-2010/

Mark Horrell’s Diary from the Jagged globe 2007 expeditionhttp://www.markhorrell.com/diaries/070909.html

Andy Ruck’s Expedition report 2008 Thanglasgo Valley with BSES.http://aaj.americanalpineclub.org/climbs-and-expeditions/asia/india/ladakh-zanskar/2010-thanglasgo-valley-big-rock-candy-mountain-dawa-peak-kangsaimathung-peak-2/

Jagged Peak Previous Expedition. Overview & report from 2007http://www.jagged-globe.co.uk/news/reports_list.html?id=167#photo-galleryhttp://www.jagged-globe.co.uk/news/reports_read.html?id=628http://www.jagged-globe.co.uk/news/reports_read.html?id=624

Rimo Expeditions, trekking itinerary, Nubra Valleyhttp://www.rimoexpeditions.com/itenirary.php?TripNow=RINU&RegionNow=&Tab=

This report can be used and copied for the purposes of research. For further information please email: Jamesmonypenny@hotmail.com