The Brazilian Table - DDV CULINARY...we answer frankly according to their interests. We love it, and...
Transcript of The Brazilian Table - DDV CULINARY...we answer frankly according to their interests. We love it, and...
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TheBrazilianTableYaraCastroRobertsRichardRoberts
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THEBRAZILIANTABLEDIGITALEDITIONV1.0
Textexceptpreface©2009YaraCastroRobertsPrefacetext©2009RichardRobertsPhotographs©2009RichardRoberts,pages2,10,14,30–31,38,51,112–13,122–23,146,
150–51,155,192
Photographs©2009MartySnortum,pages55,61,63,65,91,95,97,105,131,135,141,145,163,165,167,181,184,189,191,195,197
AllotherphotographsfromShutterstock,Inc.
Allrightsreserved.Nopartofthisbookmaybereproducedbyanymeanswhatsoeverwithoutwrittenpermissionfromthepublisher,exceptbriefportionsquotedforpurposeofreview.
GibbsSmith,PublisherPOBox667Layton,UT84041
Orders:1.800.835.4993www.gibbs-smith.com
LibraryofCongressCatalog-in-PublishingDataISBN-13:978-1-4236-0315-3
ISBN-10:1-4236-0315-X1.Cookery,Brazilian.I.Roberts,Richard,1937–II.Title.
TX716.B6R622009641.5981—dc22
2008042798
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Tomyparents,BelitaandEtienne,whorevealedtomehowessentialthetableanditspleasuresare.
Tomygrandchildren,ShaneandMaya:maytheyfollowthetradition.
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TheBrazilianTableTableofContents
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Foreword
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Acknowledgments
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Preface
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Introduction:BrazilattheTable
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BrazilianIngredients
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TheCookingoftheAmazon
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TheCookingofBahía
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TheCookingofMinasGerais
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TheCookingoftheCerrado
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TheKing’sTable
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TheImmigrants’Table
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FruitsoftheLand
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ResourcesandBibliography
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MetricConversionChart
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ForewordBrazilisacountrythesizeofacontinent.FromtheAmazonrainforestinthenorthtothePampasinthesouth,thescenerysweepslikeacinemascopecatalogueofbreathtakingbeauty.Thepeopleareasvariedasthescenery:NativeIndians,Portuguese,Africans,Japanese,Italians,Germans,Lebanese,andotherscometogetherdailytomixandmingleandmakeBraziloneofthemostdiversenationsintheworld.IloveBrazil.AndIdelightedinYaraRobert’sloveofhernativelandthefirsttimewemetoveradecadeago.WebothunderstoodthatBrazil’scookingwasasamazingasitshistory.
Brazil’scookingholdsnosecretsforYara.InTheBrazilianTable,shetakesthereaderonaculinarytourofthecountrysheobviouslylovesandknowswell.Fromthepalmoil–hueddishescreatedbytheenslavedAfricansofSalvadordaBahíatothedishesinspiredbythePortugueseroyalcourtspassingthroughthefoodofthenativepeoplesoftheAmazonregion,withagraciousnodtothenation’snewerimmigrants,andasalutetoherhomestateofMinasGerais,Robertsisanabletourguide.Shenotonlytemptsuswithmouthwateringdishes,shealsogivesusaprimeronBrazilianculinaryhistoryandregalesuswithanecdotesfromherchildhoodalongtheway.
Thejourneyisafascinatingonefilledwiththebrighttastesofmangoes,pineapples,andcoconut.ItintriguesthecookwithdishesthatputnewtwistsonfavoritefoodssuchasRoastChicken,King-Style,StuffedwithFarofa,anddelightswithinnovationssuchasCornCrèmeBrûléethatcouldonlycomefromthiscountryofbountyandwonder.ItchallengesthefoodhistorianwithitsrevelationofaculinaryculturethatislittleknowntotheEnglish-speakingworld.Finally,itthrillsarmchairtravelersandculinaryomnivoreswithitsbrilliantphotography,muchofitbyYara’shusband,RichardRoberts.Whetherreadingoreating,TheBrazilianTableoffersasatisfyingmealthatwilldelighteyes,mind,andpalate.
—JessicaB.Harris
Professor,author,andculinaryhistorian
January2009
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AcknowledgmentsIwouldliketothankthefollowingpeople:
ToRichard,forhislove,forbeingthebestpartnerthroughoutourlives,andforhisguidanceforthisbook.Tomydaughter,Danielle,andherhusband,Randall,fortheirloveandforthewonderfulfamilytheyhavecreated.
Tomybrother,Marcio,andhiswife,Eliza,andmynieces,ThaísandNatascha,andtheirfamiliesforthejoyfulanddeliciousmealswehavesharedtogether.Tomycousins,Roger,Dee,andHelenRobertsfortheirfondnessandsupport.ToRobertoandJoannaCiruffo,AnneMarieBruno,VivianMester,CeciliaFrigerio,ChristineFox,myheartythanks,andtoallmyfriendsinBrazil,France,Mexico,theUnitedStates,andCanadaforthefun,thecheering,andvitalenthusiasm.
ToJoséAlbertoNemer,andArleteandEduardoAndradeinMinasGerais,forsharingtheir“Minas”withme.TochefBetoPimentelinBahía,whosetouroftherestaurantkitchen“ParaisoTropical”andhisgardenoftropicaldelightsmademytastebudsjump!TochefTeresaPaim,andAnieteLimaandtheirfamiliesfortheirgraciousnessandBahíanhospitality.ToLaísCastroandfamilywhowarmlyhostedRichardandmeinBelém.ToAbelardoBacelarandAndréaGonçalveswhotookusaroundthisamazingcity.ToAnibal,DesiréeandLorenaLimawhomadeusfeelathomeintheirhomeinGoiânia.TochefChrisIsaacforunlockingthesecretsofthecookingoftheCerrado.
ToMarthaCintraLeiteinParaty,anartistandgreatassociate,whocreatesdazzlingtabledecorations,addingmorepleasurestothedinnersatthecookingschool.Toourkitchenassistants,TatianaLemos,MárciaHelenaGomes,andSimonePimentafortheirdedicationandprofessionalexchanges.ToLaurentSuaudeau,CarlaPernambuco,FelipeBronze,RobertaShudback,andDadetteMascarenhasfortheirinspiringrecipes.
Tomyagent,SallyBrady,forherconfidenceandenthusiasm.Andfinally,toGibbsSmithforofferingmeauniqueopportunitytoshareBrazilthroughoutthisbook,andtothetalentedteamwhoproducedanelegantandattractivebook.
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PrefaceIt’seightintheevening,“curtaintime.”Withinafewminutes,eightpeoplewillarriveatourhousefordinner.YaraandIdon’tknowthemnordotheyknowus—yet.Westartwithabriefpreviewoftheeveningasweservecaipirinhas,batidas,andsoftdrinks.ThenYarainvitesthosewhoareinterestedtomovetothekitchenwithherandtohelpwithorjustwatchthepreparationofthedinnertocome.Afewminutesaftershebeginstoshowhowtomakeeachdishonthemenu,manyparticipantsdecidetodonaprons,washhands,andjoininthepreparation.Afterahalfhourorso,asenseofplaybeginstoenlivenintheparticipantsadesiretolearn,andthatsetsoffjokes,cheering,andgentleheckling.Ithasbecomefun.
Characteristically,thefoodsheprepareswithourguestsisallfromBrazilianingredients,withrecipesthataretraditional,adapted,orwhollycreatedbyaBrazilian:YaraCastroRoberts—yourchef,writer,andguidethroughthisbook.Duringdinner,shetellsthestoryoffoodinBrazilfromitsearliestdaystothepresent.
Atthetable,theconversationflowsfreelyandrangeswide.GuestswhoarenewtoBraziloftenquestionbothofusaboutwhatit’s“really”liketolivehere,andweanswerfranklyaccordingtotheirinterests.Weloveit,andwecanidentifyandcommunicatewhatweloveaboutit,namely,itspeopleanditsbeauty.WithBrazilians,conversationquicklybecomesoneyouwouldhavewitholdfriends.
We’veentertainedpeoplefromavarietyofbackgrounds,interests,andnationalities.TherehavebeenvacationingbusinessmentouringBrazilonmotorcycles,backpackingstudentsstayingathostels,akingandqueen,nobelauriateauthors,artists,professors,chefs,coupleswithchildren,grandparents,theyoung,andtheold.Afterawhile,wewonderediftherewassomecommonalityinthisvariety.Onedayitdawnedonusthatallourguestshadtwosimplebutsalientqualitiesincommon.First,eachonewascuriousabouttheworldatlarge.Second,eachhadthequalityoffeeling“comfortableinhisorherownskin”(aliteraltranslationfromtheaptFrenchphrase—biendanssapeau).Nowadinnercomposedofpeoplewhosharethosetwoqualitiesisgoingtobe...fun.Andtheyhavebeen.TowardtheendoftheeveningatourBrazilianTable,guestsoftenexchangeaddressesnotjustwithusbutalsowitheachother.WecallwhatwedohereinParatytheAcademyofCooking&Other
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Pleasures,and,bythetimetheyleave,guestsunderstandthatwereallymeanitwhenweanswer,“Youare,”whenweareaskedthequestion,“Whataretheotherpleasures?”Ofcourse,thereisalsothevisualpleasureofthetabledecorationthatissettofiteachregion,usingonlyanaturalpaletteofflowers,seeds,fruits,palmfronds,andlocalartsandcrafts.
Wedoallthisinfourlanguageswhentheneedarises,sincewe’rebothfluentinEnglish,Portuguese,Spanish,andFrench.Whenthere’smorethanonelanguageatourtable,peopletendtosettleonsomeformofEnglish,andthenon-Englishspeakersaremorecomfortablesincetheyknowtheycanretreatwithusintotheirownlanguage(aslongasit’snotoneofhundredswedon’tspeak!).
Thefunthateveryonehasatourtableisbasedinsomepartonthefactthatitalllookseffortless.Anditisreally,yetit’sourownparticularsetofskillsandlifeexperiencesthathelpproducethatease.Thatlifeexperienceincludeshavinglivedandworkedinfourdifferentcountriesonthreecontinents.
YaraisBrazilian.ShewasborninBeloHorizonte,thedaughterofamotherwhodirectedacateringbusinessandafatherwhowasanewspaperjournalist.HerprofessionshavespannedballetdancinginBrazil,achilddevelopmentcareerbasedonaspecialistdegreefromtheSorbonneandpracticeinParisandtheUnitedStates,andbeingachefforthelasttwentyyearswithformaltrainingatBostonUniversity.ThefirstarticleaboutherinthepressoccurredmanyyearsagowhenNancyJenkinscoveredherinTheNewYorkTimes.ShewentontodoaseriesofcookingprogramsforWGBHinBostonthatwasnominatedforanEmmy.Sixyearsago,wemovedbacktoBrazilandstartedtheschool.Again,thepresshasbeengenerous,andwe’vebeencoveredinnewspapers,magazines,andtravelguidesintheUnitedStatesandEurope.
IamanAmerican.IwasborninParisofaFrenchmother,wholaterdirectedartgalleriesinNewYork,andanAmericanfather,whoranengineeringcompaniesinthechemicalindustryinEuropeandtheUnitedStates.IwenttotheuniversityandgraduateschoolatPrincetonandYaleandmadeacareerinbusiness.First,Ileddivisionsoflargemulti-nationalcompaniesintheUnitedStatesandinLatinAmerica.ThenIopenedmyownmanagementconsultingbusinessandconcludedthatcareerbyinitiatingamergeroftwomultibillion-dollarcompanies.NowIcananddodevotefulltimetophotography.
Eachofusgrewupinhouseholdswheredinnerwassacred,conversationwasimportant,andguestswereconstantandcherished.Soatdinner,wealwaysdrawoutourguestsandneverleaveanyonesilent,sincewe’relikelytofind
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outourguestsandneverleaveanyonesilent,sincewe’relikelytofindsomethingincommonwithalmosteveryone.
WewritethisfrombeautifulParaty—aseventeenth-centurycolonialvillagewithcobblestonestreets,soundsofchildrenplaying,nocarsinitshistoriccenter,andtheclip-clopofthehorse-drawncarriagesthatregularlytourthevillage.Inaddition,thevillageisatthecenterofatwenty-mile-widecirclethatcontainssomeofthemostvariednaturalbeautyintheworld.BehindParatyisthelushandmountainousAtlanticcoastforest(theMataAtlantica)fullofrivers,coolwaterfalls,andwildlife.Alongthecoastarelongwhite-sandbeacheslinedwithfruittrees.Seawardisanarrayofthirtyislandswherewecananchorforadiveintoemerald-greenwater,stopforlunch,andswimwiththefishbetweencourses.Andmostimportantareitsresidents.Theyareafriendlyandtalentedgroup,includingfamilieswhohavelivedhereforgenerations,atruesampleofBrazil.It’sbecauseoftheatmospheretheyhavecreatedthatweboughtahouseheretwenty-fouryearsago.Sixyearsago,afterrebuilding,westartedlivinginitandwenowspendninemonthsoftheyearhere.WewriteofParatywithgratitude,becauseitsbeautyanditsconsequentattractionforabroadrangeofpeopleiswhathasenabledustodowhatwedoandnowforYaratowritethebookyouholdinyourhands.
—RichardRoberts
Tocontactus:
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Introduction:BrazilattheTableWhateverhappensthroughthehistoryofacountry,regardlessofitssize,richness,orculturalorpoliticalimportance,muchhappensatthetable!
Ofcoursetherearethewars,alliances,andmisalliances;marriagesbetweenkingsandqueens;revolutions;climatechanges;thefallandtheriseofleaders;andtheresettlementofpeoplestobeconsidered.
Sometimesthetablemaynotevenlooklikeatable;itmightbeamatorarugundertheskyorashadytreeorinatent.Inspiteofitsmode,thetableisthescenewhereappealingfactsthatarecloselyattachedtothehistoryofplacesandpeoplesarerevealed.
AndBrazilhasnotbeenanydifferent.
Itallstartedinthe1500swiththeencounterbetweenthePortugueseandthenativesincoastalBrazil.ThefactthatthePortuguesedidn’tbringwomenwiththemcreatedanincomparableopportunityforculturalexchanges.
Oneofthoseexchangesoccurredbecausethecunhãs,theIndianwomen,wereinchargeofthecookingforthenewlyarrived.Theycookedinthewaytheyknewbest,whichwastogrill:placingseafood,game,fruits,andvegetablesdirectlyonthemoquém,awoodedplatformabovethefirethattheIndiansusedforcooking.Thefoodwasoftenwrappedinleaves.ThenativesandthePortugueseatetogetheraroundalargewovenmatofpalmtreeleaves.Onit,thefamiliarIndiandishesweresidebysidewiththenewfoodsthePortugueseeitherhadbroughtorhadcultivatedinthenewland,allpreparedbythehandsofthecunhãsandservedwithlargeamountsofhotpeppersandroastedmaniocflour.
Bysharingfoodaroundthisrustictable,astrongculturalassimilationtookplacethatprobablyhelpedtocraftthefusionofracessoimportantintheformationofBrazilianculture.
TheAfricansbeganarrivinginBrazilinthemid-sixteenthcentury.Althoughtheycameasslaves,theyhadbelongedtowell-organized,developedsocietieswithstrongtraditionsandrichculturesexpressedinagriculturalmethods,themanufactureofattractivecookingutensils,andagreatcuisine.
TheAfricanwomenwereskillfulcooks,knowinghowtostewandhowtobake
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TheAfricanwomenwereskillfulcooks,knowinghowtostewandhowtobaketopreservefoods.OncelivinginBrazil,theAfricanslaveslookedaround,asgoodcooksandchefsdo,identifyingingredientsthatlookedfamiliar.TheyalsolearnedfromtheIndianwomenhowtousethenativeherbs,fruits,roots,andvegetables.Theythenaddedthefamiliarcoconutmilk,palmoil,peanuts,andokratothecooking...andsoontheyhadtakenovertheirmaster’skitchen.
Inthemaster’skitchen,theAfricanwomanlearnednewdishes,butshealsoslippedinthesameingredientssheusedinherownslavekitchen,enticinghermasterandhisfamily’spalates.Theseingredientsthenbecameindispensabletotheslaveowner’stable.
Inthekitchenofthesenzala(theslaveheadquarters),theAfricanwomancookeddisheswiththeleftoveringredientsfromthemaster’skitchenandenrichedthemwithherfavoritefragrantingredients.Mostofthesedisheswerealsocookedfortheorixás(Africangods)aspartoftheceremoniesofCandomblé,thereligiousritesthathavesinceblossomedinBrazil.
Gatheredaroundtheirrespectivetables,mastersandslavescametoappreciatethesamefoods,andtheirethnicitiesbegantoblendtogether.
Notlongafter,newsofgoldandsemipreciousstonesbeingdiscoveredineasternBrazilspreadtosettlementsandvillagesalongthecoast.Tensofthousandsofpeoplejoinedorganizedgroupstofindwealththousandsofmilesawayfromtheirownhomes.Thismovementinlanddramaticallychangedthewaythecountrydeveloped.PrimitivehamletsdevelopedalongtheeffluentsoftheSãoFranciscoRiverand,toalesserextent,alongtheeffluentsoftheRioGrande.ThisensembleofminesandtheirsettlementswasnamedMinasGerais,orGeneralMines.
Afterdecadesofdifficulttimesinthisregion,includingshortagesoffood,aprosperousperiodfollowedinthemid-1700s.Townssprouted,andrichnessandwealthbegantopavetheroadfortheMinasGeraisregiontobecometheepicenterofcolonialpolitics.
InwealthytownssuchasOuroPretoandDiamantina,someresidentshadaccesstoafewingredientsthatcamefromPortugal,suchasapricots,prunes,andraisins,andspicessuchascinnamon,nutmeg,andcloves.Thepresenceoftheseingredients,usedonlyonspecialoccasions,wasevidencethatsuchapersonhadpoliticalconnectionswithPortugal.
Thetablesettingwasalsorefinedandelegant,withtableclothsembroideredbyhandandmadewithlinenandlace.Crystal,silver,andbeautifulchinawere
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handandmadewithlinenandlace.Crystal,silver,andbeautifulchinawerebroughtfromEngland,India,andMacao.
Dishessuchasmarinatedroastedporkloin,wholesucklingpig,bakedstuffedquail,chickenstews,anddazzlingdesserts,allwithstrongPortugueseinfluence,becamepartoftheBraziliantable.TheAfricanwomeninchargeofthecookingpairedwiththePortugueseladiestomastertheuseofsugartomakecandiedfruits,caramelizeddesserts,andsumptuouscakes.
Theseeleganttableswiththerefineddishesmighthavesettheidealstagefortheexchangeofideasaboutpowerandpolitics,oneofthosebeingthefirstmovementsfortheindependenceofBrazil.
OnarainyNovemberdayin1808,thePortuguesePrinceRegentDomJoãoVI,withtheroyalfamilyandthousandsofmembersofhiscourt,hurriedlyleftLisbonandboardedshipsforBrazil.ThemotivewasNapoleon.DuetothealliancebetweenPortugalandEngland,Napoleon’sinvasionofPortugalhadbecomeinevitable.WhenNapoleon’sarmylandedinLisbon,theyfoundthecitypoorandnear-empty,thetreasuryandtheroyaltygone.Byevacuating,theprincehadguaranteedthethroneandavoidedthehumiliationofbeingconquered.
Whatfollowednextweredisagreeabletimesfortheroyalfamilyandtheircourtiers,whofoundthemselvesinthetropicssufferingfromtheheat—andeverythingelse!
RiodeJaneiro,theirfinaldestination,wasadormanttowntotallyunpreparedtowelcomesuchhonorableresidents.ThePaçoImperial—theadministrationcenterandSãoCristovãoPalace—becametheofficialresidence,anditwasnotsuitabletoaccommodatetheroyalfamilyandtheirentourage.Butimprovementsweremaderapidly.Eleganthousesandofficialbuildingswereconstructed,thetownstreetswerecleaneddaily,andsoonRiodeJaneirobecameanattractivetownwiththeaters,publicgardens,pavedstreets,andsquares—allwithEuropeaninfluence.
Withthearrivaloftheroyalfamilyandthousandsofnobles,newfoodingredientssuchasalmonds,tea,andpistachiosbegangracingBraziliantables.Whileblackpepper,wheatflour,oliveoil,wine,andspiritshadbeenavailableearlier,theirsupplyandqualityhadbeenveryinconsistent.Withthearrivalofthecourtthischanged,andregularsuppliesandhigherqualityoftheseproductswereensured.
EventhoughmostofhisfoodcamefromEurope,DomJoãointroduced
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EventhoughmostofhisfoodcamefromEurope,DomJoãointroducedBrazilianfoodsuchasguavatothemealsofthepalace.Likewise,hissonPedroIdevelopedapreferenceforthecombinationofriceandbeans.DomJoão’sfavoritedishwasroastchicken,which,apparently,hecouldeatmorethanonceaday.AccordingtothePortuguesehistorianAnaRoldão,amongthemanycookswhocamewiththeroyalfamily,Alvarengawassaidtobetheonethekingpreferredtomakehischicken.
Rio’ssocietybecameusedtotheelegantdinnersgivenbytheroyalfamily,whereimportantvisitorsfromEuropewerealsoentertained.Theroyalcuisineincludedsauces,decorateddishes,theconsumptionofbreads,salads,complexdesserts,andwine—allindicatingastrongFrenchinfluence.Gradually,Brazilianingredientswereincorporatedintothedishes,helpedalongbytheAfricanwomenwhoparticipatedinthecooking,whothrewtheirzestaswellasnewingredientsintotheroyalpotsandpans.
Thecourtbanquetsusuallylastedthreetofourhours,andastrictetiquettecodeandanintimidatingsetofrestrictiveformalitiesdominatedtheaccompanyingceremonials—proceduresunfamiliartoalmosteveryonelivinginBrazil.
Itdidn’ttakelongfortheBraziliansandthePortugueselivingincolonialBraziltoinsinuatetheirnaturalexuberance,spontaneousbehavior,andinformalattitudeintothediningexperience,gracefullycircumventingtheusualhabitsofEuropeanroyaltyandthusredefiningtheBrazilianroyaltable.
ImmigrantsfromothercountriesstartedtoarriveinBrazilattheendof1808,butthegreatmajoritycameinthemid-nineteenthcenturyasaconsequenceofthelong-awaitedabolitionofslavery.
Brazilwasthenayoungrepublicwithaworkforcethatwasinsufficientforthecountry’sgrowth.ThiscoincidedwithawaveofemigrationthatwassweepingEurope.TheBraziliangovernmentattractedGermanandItalianimmigrantstothesouthbygivingawaylandtofamilieswhowouldworkit.LaterimmigrantsworkedintheextensivecoffeeplantationsinthestateofSãoPaulo.
WiththeGermanscamedishesofsmokedporkandcoldcuts,andbeer.TheGermanwomenbroughttheirhomerecipesforpastriesandcoffeecakes,whicharecommonlyfoundtodayinmanybakeriesandcafésalloverBrazil.Beer,themostpopularalcoholicbeverageinBrazil,wasprobablyGermany’smostimportantcontributionandhasbecomeaflourishingindustryinthecountry.
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TheItaliansfloodedthecountrywiththeirdown-to-earthculinarytechniquesfrombothnorthernandsouthernItaly:thefabulouspastasandpizzas,cheeses,andicecreamsintheircuisine;thecareofprivatevegetableandherbgardens;andasavoir-fairethatisimprintedtodayinBrazilians’souls!Italiansparticipateddirectlyinthecreationofrobustfoodbusinesses,theearlybasisforthefoodindustryinBrazil.
Inthe1930s,JapaneseimmigrantsarrivedinthestatesofSãoPauloandParanátoworkinthecoffeeplantations.Graduallytheyturnedintosmall-andmid-sizelandownersandnowdominatethefruitandvegetableindustryofthewholecountry.Inrecentyearstheyhavemigratedtourbancenters,wheretheyoccupyimportantpositionsinscienceandserviceindustries.TopicturethecityofSãoPaulowithouttheJapaneseisimpossible,notonlybecauseofthepresenceof1.5millionJapaneseandJapanesedescendants(thelargestJapanesepopulationoutsideJapan),butbecauseoftheirparticipationinallaspectsofBrazilianlife.
ThehighqualityoffreshproduceandflowersfoundinBraziltodayiscertainlyduetothededicationoftheJapaneseandtheirknowledgeoffarming.Theircropsofallkindshaveshapedthecookingofthewholecountry,establishingstandardsofquality.JapanesefoodshopsinSãoPauloareliterallyoneveryothercorner.TheyarecheekbyjowlwithtraditionalBrazilianfoodshops,andsushicountersareespeciallypopularinallthemajorBraziliancities.
TheLebanesestartedtoimmigratetoBrazilattheendofthenineteenthcentury,escapingfromthedifficulteconomicsituationintheircountry.MostwenttoRiodeJaneiroandSãoPaulo,andsmallnumberswenttothestatesofMinasGerais,Amazonas,andPará.Theyinitiallyplayedanimportantroleinthetextiletradeandalsointheretailclothingbusiness.Morerecently,theLebanesehavebecomeprominentinthemedicalworldaswellasinpolitics.
Todaytherearearound7millionLebanesedescendantsinBrazil,ahighernumberthantheLebanesepopulationlivinginLebanon.MostofthemareChristians,butthereisalsoalargenumberofMuslimandJewishLebaneselivingharmoniouslyinBrazil.ArabfoodsorArabingredientscanbepurchasedinalmosteverytowninBrazil.Braziliansperceivethosefoodsandingredientsascommon,ratherthanexotic,andtheyareincludedintheirusualcooking.
TherearefancyLebaneserestaurantswithextensivemenusaswellasfast-foodplacesthatserveArabfingerfoods,whichBraziliansenjoyassnacksbetweenmeals.
ImmigrantstoBrazilhaveplayedaninvaluableroleinthecountry’scultureand
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ImmigrantstoBrazilhaveplayedaninvaluableroleinthecountry’scultureandeconomy,andBrazilianshavewelcomedtheminsuchawaythattheimmigrantsdon’tthinkofthemselvesasnon-Brazilian.TheimmigrantswhohavebroughttheirfoodsanddishestoBrazilhaveenrichedforeverthecountry’salreadyfascinatingcuisine.
ArrivinginaBrazilianhomeforatypicalSundayfamilylunch,onemayfindasucculentlasagna,amint-flavoredcrackedwheatsaladnamedtabbouleh,aplatterofcolorfulsushifromatake-outplace,andaflakystrudel—allalternatingwithsalads,aroastporkwithtutuMinasGerais-style,theBahíanchickenxim-ximwithpalm-oilfarofa,andastewedfishwithpirãofromtheAmazoncuisine.Allofthesesavorydishesareplacedonthetableatthesametime;thepresentationisfamily-style.
ThereisnorightorwrongtotheorderinwhichBrazilianfoodiseaten.Eachpersonmakeshisorherownselectionfromthedishespresented—akintoapainterwhochoosesfromapaletteofcolors.Sincethereisnodefinedorderorprocesstotheservingoreatingoffood,itcanbesaidthatthepeopleatthetablearetheultimatechefsattheBraziliantable!
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BrazilianIngredientsManioc
Themanioc,aplantfromtheEuphorbiaceousfamily,oncecalledtheQueenofBrazilbyhistorianLuisdaCâmaraCascudo,isthebackboneofBraziliancuisine.Fromnorthtosouth,easttowest,Braziliansfromallsociallevelsusetheplantinmanywaysandinavarietyofforms,resultinginarangeoffabulousdishes.ThelovestorybetweenBraziliansandmaniocisillustratedinthetaletoldbyanEnglishmantravelingontheNegroRiverin1849:
...wefoundthisnativewhowaslostintheforest.Helookedundernourished,confused,andcoveredwithblisters;hesaidhewasstarvingbecausehedidn’teatfortendayssincetherewasnomaniocflour!Withallthegiftsfromtheforestsandtherivers,thenativedidn’tconsiderthemasfood:iftherewasnomaniocflour,therewasnofood(Cascudo1983).
Themaniocisaperennialshrubbyplantthatcangrowuptotenfeet(threemeters).Ithasjoinedstemsandshiny,darkgreenleaves,anditsthickrootsgrowparalleltotheground,spreadinginalldirectionslikeagigantichandwithwide-openfingers.Therootsareenlargedbythehighconcentrationofstarchandaretheprincipalsourceofnutrientsfortheplant.
ManihotesculentaoriginatedinCentralandSouthAmericamaybefivethousandyearsago,mostprobablyinBrazil.Itlikestropicalclimateswithhighlevelsofhumidity,althoughitmaygrowwildalmostanywhere.Itisamongthetenmostimportantedibleplants,anditisalsothestarchiestone.
ThroughoutBrazil,manioc,whichisalsoknownasaipimandmacaxeira,growsonsmallfarms.JustliketheAmerindianshavebeendoingforhundredsofyears,thefarmerscutstakesfrommatureplants,stickingtheminthegroundonlandsthatarenotsuitabletocultivateothercrops.Althoughtheplantsrequiresufficientmoisturethethreefirstmonths,theycanresistandsurviveextremedrought,beinghighlyadaptabletosoilswithlowfertility.Maniochasalsoproventobeextremelyresilienttobugs,insects,andplagues.
Theplantmaturestoitsharveststagebetweensixandtwelvemonths.Thecropisstillreapedmanually,bycuttingoffthetopthree-fourthsoftheplant,pullinguptheroots,andthenseparatingtherootsfromeachother.Onceharvested,the
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uptheroots,andthenseparatingtherootsfromeachother.Onceharvested,therootsneedtobeconsumedimmediatelyorprocessedintoflourorjuicetobeproperlystored.Thefreshrootsstarttodeterioratewithinthreetofourdaysafterharvesting,so,inordertoreachthemarkets,theyhavetobewaxed,packedinplasticbags,orfrozen.
Theleaves,calledmaniva,arealsousedincooking.InBrazil,theyarepickedatanytimeduringthegrowthoftheplant,and,becausetheleavesalsodeterioraterapidly,theyhavetobecookedorpreparedthesameday.SellersinthelocalmarketsinmajorAmazonregiontownsfinelygrindtheleavesinameatgrinderandthenboilthemmanytimesforseveralhourstoremovethetoxinspresentintheplant.Theresultingpaste(maniva)isthensoldtocustomers.Oneexceptionaldishusingmanivaiscalledmaniçoba,whichismadewithvariouscutsofporkandisusuallypreparedforspecialcelebrations.
ThePortuguese,duringthetimeofslavery,tookmanioctoAfrica,firstintheformofaflourprovisionandthentocultivateit.ManiocgrewalongthecoastofWestAfricauntilthe1700s,whenitspreadtoEastAfrica,Madagascar,India,Ceylon,andIndonesia,whereitisknownascassava.
Amongthehundredsofspeciesknowntoday,therearetwomaintypesthatareusedincooking.Thesmall,sweetmaniocrequiresasimpleprocesstoremovethetoxins.Itisusedincookingtomakesoups,purées,dumplings,andstews.Thelarger,bittervarietyisusedtomakeflourorstarchandrequiresalongerprocesstoremovethecyanide.Thisvarietyisusedtomakecakes,breads,anddesserts.
Themaniocrootsarerichinhighlydigestiblecarbohydrate(upto30–35percent),butarelowinprotein(1–2percent)andfat(lessthan1percent).Theyalsohavesignificantamountsofcalcium(50mg/100g),phosphorous(40mg/100g),andvitaminC(25mg/100g).Althoughtherootislowinprotein,theleavesareagoodsourceofit(23percent),plusvitaminsandminerals.
Maniocanditsvariousproductsplayanimportantroletopeoplewhohavewheatallergiesandcoeliac(celiac)disease.Themaniochasbecomeagreatresourcebecauseofitsversatility.Itcanbeusedinavarietyofdishes;thefreshmanioc,forinstance,isusedtomakesoups,salads,stews,andsidedishes.Thestarchyflourcansubstituteforwheattothickensaucesandtobakecakes,pies,andcookies;theroastedcoarseflourmakesdishesthatresembleMoroccancouscousandisusedtostuffvegetables,fowl,fish,andmeat.Thetapiocaisagreatbasicingredientforallkindsofsoupsandfordessertssuchascustards,ice
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cream,andtapioquinha,aBrazilianversionofthecrepe.Itwasinallfairnessthat,whentravelinginBrazilinthe1600s,PholcalledtheplantManihotutilissima(themostusefulmanioc).
Byanyofitsnames—mandioca,manioc,yucca,orcassava—therootoncecalledtheQueenofBrazilisnowonitswaytoexpanditssovereigntytotherestoftheworld.Infact,todaymaniocprovidesabout30percentoftheworldwidesupplyofrootsandtubersandisthebasicfoodforover800millionpeoplearoundtheglobe.
HeartsofPalm
Brazil’sIndiansusedthenativepalmtrees,juçaraandaçai,formanypurposeslongbeforethePortuguesearrivedinthe1600s.Itstraditionalusesincludedmakinghousesandstructuresfromthetrunk;weavingrooffabric,baskets,andsievesfromtheleaves;cookingandeatingitsberriesorprocessingtheberries(ornuts)intooilandflour;grindingtherootstomakelarvicide;andusingthinnerstripsofitswoodtomakebows,arrows,spears,andfishweirs.However,theconsumptionofheartsofpalmwasnotcommon.Soonecanimaginethesurpriseofabandofsixteenth-centuryPortuguesetravelersinthecostalrainforestofBrazilwhentheycameuponagroupofIndianseatingatree.Atleastthat’swhatitseemed.TheIndianswere,infact,eatingthesoftinsidesofapalmtree.
Sincethen,theconsumptionofheartsofpalmhasgrownwidelybecauseofitsdelicatetaste.It’satastethathintsofartichokeheart,asparagus,andnuts,andyetiscompletelyunique.TheoriginalsourcehasbeenthebeautifuljuçaraandaçaipalmtreesthatgrowwildinthecostalrainforestofBrazil;theycanreachaheightoffiftyfeet(aboutfifteenmeters),andtheirlongunitaryleavesgiveawispyshadeastheyswayinthewind.
Today,thereisanewsourceofheartsofpalm.Thediscoveryofwildtreeswithpromisingcharacteristicsandsubsequentplantbreedingoverthelastdecadehaveproducedaspeciesofpalmtreecalledpupunha,withcharacteristicsthatmakeitidealforgrowingcommerciallyondedicatedplantations.Thousandsoftreescangrowonjustfiftyacresoffertilevalleyland.Theyarefullerandshorterthantheirwildcousins,perhapsreachingonlytwenty-fivefeethigh(sevenandahalfmeters).
Themaincharacteristicthatmakesthisnewspecieseconomicallyandecologicallyattractiveisthatseveralsmallershootsgrowfromthebaseofits
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ecologicallyattractiveisthatseveralsmallershootsgrowfromthebaseofitstrunk.Farmerscancutoneortwoshootsfromeachtreeeverytwelvetoeighteenmonthsandleavethecentraltrunkuntouched,whichwillcontinuetogrowmoreshootsoveritsusefullifeoftentotwentyyears.
Eachcuttingisaboutthreefeetlong(onemeter)andtwotofourinchesthick(fivetotencentimeters).Afterthegreenandhardoutercoveringisstrippedaway,thewrappedconcentriclayersoftheheartofthepalmareexposed.Theselayersare,infact,thefutureleavesofthetreethatwillgrowoutfromtheshootastheplantgrows.Thecuttingisslightlyconical,andspecificusesvarywiththethicknessofthecrosssections.
Theonlyinconvenienceinthenatureofthisfoodisthatithasashortshelflifeafterharvesting.Refrigeratedfreshheartsofpalmhaveamaximumshelflifeoftwoweeks,andinthefieldunderthesuntheymustbebroughttoaprocessingplantwithinafewhours.Processing,withoneexception,consistsofpreservingcutsectionsofheartsofpalminbrineinglassjarsorcans,andsteam-heatingthesecontainerstocompleteandensurepreservationforshipping,exporting,anddistributing.BrazilexportsheartsofpalmtotheUnitedStatesandEurope.
TheexceptionisahappyoneifyoulivecloseenoughtotheplantationsaswedoinParaty,andasdoresidentsofRiodeJaneiroandSãoPaulo.Therewecanbuyfreshheartsofpalm,andthatisatruedelicacy.Thetasteoffreshheartsofpalmismuchmoreintensethanthatofpreserved.ItisreasonenoughtocometoBrazilandtasteityourself.
Meanwhile,thekeytodistributingthefreshproductatlongdistancesisspeedandrefrigeration.Justasfreshseafoodisair-shippedtoJapanfromtheNorthAmericanPacificCoast,freshBrazilianheartsofpalmmayyetbecomeavailableinselectstoresintheUnitedStates.
DendêPalmOil
Dendêoilordendém,asitisknowninAngola,takesusonatripintohistory.WithitsoriginontheAfricancontinent,thepalmoiltreewastakenandsuccessfullygrowninseveralotherregionsintheworldduetoitseasyadaptationtonewenvironments.
Surprisingly,accordingtohistoriansincludingBrazilianCamaraCascudo,insomeAfricanregionsdendêappearstohavebeenusedasabodyoil.Whenappliedexternally,itenhancesthebodywithflatteringreflectivehighlights
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appliedexternally,itenhancesthebodywithflatteringreflectivehighlightsduringdanceperformancesandalsoappearstocorrectdiscolorationofdarkerskin.
InsomeareasofAfrica,palmoilhadanestheticuse;inothers,itwasusedincooking.ItwasinthislattercapacitythatitcametoBrazilaround1759,becomingoneofthemostimportantingredientsofBraziliancuisine.
Fordecadesthecommerceofpalmoilwasparalleltotheslavetrade,anditwasshippedtoBrazilinlargeamounts.Apparentlyduring1798,asmanyas1,050gallons(4,000liters)oftheoilwerebroughttoBrazilfromAngolaandtheislandofSãoToméinordertofulfilltheneedsofthevastnumberofAfricanslivinginBrazil.Butitdidn’ttakelongforPalmaspinosatobeplantedinBrazil,and,accordingtoPortuguesehistoricaldocuments,by1802thetreewastotallyacclimatizedinthisland,becomingapermanentelementofthelocallandscape.
Nevertheless,itwasinSalvadoranditssurroundings—withitsdensedemographicconcentrationofAfricanslaves—wherethelargestplantationsofpalmoilgrewtobeindispensabletoBahíancuisineandtheritesofCandomblé.SincetheAfricanslavewomenwereinchargeofmostofthecooking,theyskillfullysucceededinincorporatingdendêintothecuisineoftheirmasters.Thus,dendêbecameapermanentingredientinBraziliancuisine,anditisusedtocookdishesmadewithfish,seafood,andpoultrysuchasthevatapá,Bobó,andxim-xim.
Thepalmoiltreeisimposing,sometimesreachingfiftyfeet(fifteenmeters)high.Ithaslongleavesmeasuringthreefeet(onemeter),whosebasesarecoveredwiththorns.Thepalmoiltreeplantationisbeautiful.Whenthetreesarelinedupinrows,theycreateashadycorridor,and,whenthewindblows,theleavesundulateinagraciousdancewiththesoundofsplashingwaves.
Thelightyellowflowersgrowinlargebunchesunderneaththetopleavesofthetree,andit’sfromthemthatthestunningfruitsblossom.Blackinthebeginning,thefruitturnsintoavibrantreddishorange,indicatingthatthefruitisripe.
Thepalmoilisextractedfromselectedripenutsbypressure,eitherindustrially,withmachinesproducingtheoilonalargescale,orbyanartisanalmethod,whichresultsinamuchsmallerproduction.Regardlessofthemethodused,thefruithastobesiftedthroughalargestrainer,andthenthenutsareboiledslowlytocookthehardcenter.
Intheartisanalmethod,thepressureisappliedbypressingthenutsunderalarge
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Intheartisanalmethod,thepressureisappliedbypressingthenutsunderalargestonewheelturnedbyanimalsorbycrushingthenutsinamillturnedbyanelectricengine.Immediatelyafterbeingpressed,thenutsarewashedinalargesink,wheretheyreleasetheiroil.
Afterabitmoreprocessing,theoilisbottledandsoldinmarketsthroughoutBrazil.Thereareseveraloftheseartisanalpalmoilproducersonthe“dendêroute”betweenthetownsofIlhéusandSalvador.DuringthemonthsofJanuarythroughFebruary,whentheoilproductionisatitspeak,thearomaofdendêfillstheair,andhundredsofbottlesofthisdeliciousingredientaredisplayedontheroadsides,wheretheyglowunderthehotBahíansun.
Allofthepalm-oilhistorycomestogetherbysixo’clockintheafternoononthestreetsofSalvador:groupsofwomenalldressedintheirtypicalBahíanaoutfitsfryacarajésinpuredendêoil.Whenallthestovesarelitandthedendêoilishot,onefeelsinebriatedbythearomareleasedfromallofthefryingpans.PeoplefromallwalksoflifelineuptoenjoyanacarajépreparedbytheirfavoriteBahíana!
Dendêoilisthemost-usedoilinBrazilaftersoybeanoil.ItisrichinvitaminA(fourteentimesmorethancarrots),butitlosesthispropertywhenitisusedtocookathightemperatures.
ItscompositionalsoincludesthevitaminBcomplexandtheantioxidantvitaminC.Althoughithasnocholesterol,itisveryrichincalorieswithasaturatedfatcontentthatdoesn’tactagainstLDL,the“badcholesterol.”
Thepalmtreeplanthasanatypicalcharacteristic:nothingfromtheplantgoestowaste.Anorange-coloreddendêoilisextractedfromthepulpofthenutandisusedtocooktraditionalAfricandishes.Thesameoil,whenrefined,becomesclearandodorlessandisappropriatetouseinsaladsandinthefoodindustry.Anotherclearoilisextractedfromtheseedfoundinthenutandisusedtoproducemargarineandoil.Theoutsideskinofthenutisutilizedtoproduceasphaltandfertilizer,and,finally,thefiberleftafterallofthepreviousprocessingisusedtofirefurnacesformachineboilers.
Cachaça
AssisValente,oneofBrazil’sbestandmostpopularcomposers,wroteasongdescribingayoungBrazilianmanwhogoesoutearlyinthemorningwearingashirtwithbrightstripesandholdingatambourineinhishand.Heswingshisbodyashewalksdownthestreet.Hestopsinthelocalbarand,insteadofhaving
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bodyashewalksdownthestreet.Hestopsinthelocalbarand,insteadofhavinghisregularmorningrepastoftoastedbread,butter,andtea,heasksforastraightshotofcachaça!
OneofthemostpopularCarnivalsongsdescribeshowcachaçaisindispensabletolife:apersonmaylackeverything,frombreadtoriceandbeanstoevenmoneyandlove...butnowayonecansurvivewithoutcachaça.
CachaçaisnotonlythenationaldrinkinBrazil,butitisalsoaconceptandanentity.Braziliansmakereferencetoitasifithasamagiccharmandpowertowhichonemustbowandeventuallysurrender.CachaçaisessentialtoCandomblérites,andtherearesomepeoplewhosaythatitattainsone’ssoul.TheworditselfhasbecomepartofthevernacularandBrazilianpopularculture.Whensomeoneenjoysanactivityoranavocationorshowsaninfatuationwithsomeone,wesayinBrazilthat“(it)hasbecomehisorhercachaça.”Itsignifiesasortofsurrenderdependency.
Cachaça—calledaguardente,pinga,orparatyindifferentregionsofthecountry—istheproductofthedistillationoffermentedsugarcanejuice,withanalcoholstrengthbetween38and48percentbyvolume.ItisthemostpopularalcoholicbeverageinBrazil,andlegallytheterm“cachaça”isreservedforthesoleuseofproductmadeinBrazil—thesamewaythattheFrenchreserve“champagne.”
Historically,cachaçaisdirectlylinkedtotheintroductionofsugarcaneandtheproductionofsugarinBrazilduringthemid-1500s.Theslaveswhowereworkingatthesugarmillsdiscoveredthatthegarapa,thecookedsugarcanejuicethatwasleftstanding,wouldferment,turningintoanalcoholicbeverage.Apparentlyinthebeginning,thebeveragewasgivenonlytoslavesattheendoftheirworkday,butsoonitbecameapopulardrinkconsumedbyalltypesofpeople.Withtheincreaseofdemand,cachaçadistilleriesproliferated,andcachaçaturnedintothefavoritealcoholicdrinkofthewholecolony,becomingathreattobagaceira,aPortuguesebrandymadewithgrapes.
InMinasGeraisduringthegoldrush,forexample,theconsumptionofcachaçawassuchthataroyalcourtorderof1743prohibitedthedistilleriesinallMinasGerais,probablystartingcachaça’sfirststepsonitslongsocialundergroundhistory.(Onlyinthe1990sdidcachaçaexitthissocialstigmatogainstatusandnationalandtheninternationalrecognition.)
Withtheexcuseofproducingsugar,peoplecontinuedtosecretlyproducecachaça,whichpromptedthecourttoattachhightaxationontheBrazilianbeverage.
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beverage.
Later,duringthefirstmovementsforindependence,cachaçawasconvertedtoapoliticalstatementwhenBraziliansserveditinsteadofPortowineduringimportantreceptions.
TodaytherearetwowaysofmakingcachaçainBrazil:artisanalandindustrial.Thetwodiffermarkedly,intermsofmanufacturingprocessandquality.Artisanalcachaçasareproducedandsoldunderfourthousandbrandsbyoverthirtythousandsmalldistilleriesspreadacrossthecountry.Eachartisanalproducermakesbetweentwoandeightthousandgallons(7,600to30,300liters)peryear,andit’samongtheseproducersthatonenormallyfindsthebettercachaças.Artisanalcachaçaaccountsforlessthan10percentofthetotalBraziliancachaçaproductionof360milliongallons(1.4billionliters)peryear.
Tomakeagood-qualityartisanalcachaçaandtoavoidthedeteriorationofitsjuice,thesugarcanehastobeusedwithintwenty-fourtothirty-sixhoursafterbeingcut.Toextractthejuice,thestemsarewashedandthenpressedthroughlargemetalrollerstoseparatethejuicefromthebagasse.Thejuiceisthenfilteredandfermented.Sometimesaleaveningsuchasfubá(cornmeal)isused;ricebranasaflavorenhancerisalsosometimesaddedbeforefermentation.Thefermentationlastsbetweenonetothreedays,andthentheliquidisdistilled,cooled,andfilteredagain.
Duringthedistillationprocess,thefirstliquidstoappear,calledthe“head,”carrythemostvolatileby-productsandthispartisoftendiscarded.Asthedistillationcontinues,thesecondpart,calledthe“heart,”iscollected.Theheartcomprisesthequalitycachaçathatisbottledand/oraged.Thethirdparttocomefromthedistillationiscalledthe“tail,”whichcomprisestheleastvolatilepartandisusuallydiscarded.
Theagingofthecachaçagivesthefinaltouchtothedrink.Themostappropriatematerialinwhichtostoretheagingcachaçaiswoodbecausewoodenhancestheoxidationthatoccursbetweentheinteriorandtheexterior.ThemostusedwoodsareEuropeanoak,Europeancedar,andtheBrazilianwoodsumburana,freijó,andjequitibá.Theidealagingtimeiseighteenmonths,althoughafewveryspecialcachaçaareagedfortenormoreyears.Thequalityofthewoodbarrelsandtheagingprocessfinishthecachaça,promotingasmoothertaste,adistinctaroma,andarangeofcolorsgoingfromclearwhitetogoldenyellow.Eachartisancachaçahasitsproducer’suniqueandunmistakablecharacteristics,justlikeanartpiece.
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Theotherkindofcachaçaproductionisindustrial.Here,thesugarcaneispressedmultipletimesandissometimessteam-treatedtoremovethelastofitssugarcontent.Chemicalcatalystsareusuallyaddedtothefermentationsteptoimprovetheyieldofalcoholfromthesugarandtoreducethefermentationtimetoanhourorso.Thedistillationstepiscontinuousratherthanbatch,usingtalldistillationcolumnsthatreceivethefermentedliquidfromaseriesoffermenters.Thecolumnseparatesthehigh-andlow-vaporpressureproductsandisusedforsubsequentchemicalextractionoftheremainingalcohol.Giventhemethod,industriallyproducedcachaçaismuchmoreeconomicalthanartisanal,and,whileitcanbequitegood,itgenerallydoesn’treachthehigher-qualitylevelsoftheartisanalcachaça.
Therearetwowaysofdrinkingcachaça.Oneistodrinkitasacocktailmixedwithfruitandice;theotheristodrinkitwithoutembellishment.
Thebest-knowncocktailwithcachaçaisthecaipirinha,thenationaldrinkmadewithcrushedlimes,ice,andsugar.Althoughtherearemanyversionswithotherfruits—pineapple,mango,kiwi,cashewfruit,orstarfruit—theclassiccaipirinhaismadewithlimes.
Inaway,caipirinhahasliberatedthecachaçafromitssocialundergroundstatusbytakingittotheBrazilian“salons,”thefancybarsandrestaurants.Fromthereithasgonetotheworld;caipirinhatodayhasbecomeoneofthemostpopulardrinksfoundinbarsandrestaurantsallovertheworld.
Theothercocktailisthebatida,alsomadewithallkindsoffreshtropicalfruitsortheirfrozenpulp,sugar,andlotsofice,allmixedinablenderandservedsupercold.Inbothcasestheappropriatecachaçaisanonagedone.
Thetraditionalwaytodrinkcachaçaisinitspureform.Cachaçaservedpuremustbefromareputabledistillerythatusesahigh-qualityagingprocess.Itistraditionallyservedinsmall2-ounce(50milliliter)clearglasses.Toreallytasteandappreciatethedrink,onetakesasipandletstheliquidlingerinthemouthforacoupleofminutes...thenletsthecachaçaslidearoundthetongue...andslowlyswallowsit,feelingthearomaandsavoringtheaftertaste.Cachaçaservedwithamealharmonizessurprisinglywellwithsomedishesandingredients.Storingitinthefreezerandservingitcoldgivesitapleasantliqueur-liketexture.
TheincreaseoftheconsumptiontogetherwiththepopularityoftheBrazilianalcoholpromptedthegovernmenttoimposeregulatorymeasuresinordertoprotecttheindustry.Asaresult,PresidentFernandoHenriqueCardoso(inoffice
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protecttheindustry.Asaresult,PresidentFernandoHenriqueCardoso(inoffice1995–2003)signedalawinFebruary2001establishingtheword“cachaça”asthenametobeusedexclusivelyforsugarcanealcoholmadeinBrazil.ThisactwasfinalizedbyanotherlawinJune2006signedbyPresidentLuisInáciodaSilva(inoffice2003–2011),whichcontainsbetterspecificationsonthecachaçaandthecaipirinhadrink.
ItappearsthattherestoftheworldisgettingreadytojoinBraziliansinsingingtheeulogytothecachaçaandclaiminghowirresistibleitis.
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CachaçaisBrazil'snationaldistilledspirit.
Pequi
OnasunnymorningsometimeduringthemonthofJanuary,acertainperfumefloatsintheairandaflusterhappensintheCerrado:beescomeflyingfrommanydirections;birdsofallkindsandsizesapproach,singingwithpassion;and
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themammalsoftheCerrado(coatis,armadillos,anddeer)unexpectedlycomeoutfromtheirhabitats.Next,peoplebegintoassembleingroupsaswholefamiliesgettogetherwiththeirfriendsfortheexpectedgreatday:thepickingofthepequi.
Thepequi(sometimespelledaspiqui)isanativefruitoftheCerradoandwasinusebythelocalIndianswhentheearlyPortugueseandbandeirantes(Brazilianexplorers)arrived.Itisaroundfruitthesizeofasmallorangewithabrightyellowcolorlikearicheggyolk.
Whatcharacterizesthepequiisthestrengthofitsdistinctivearomaandtaste.Botharesopowerfulthatpequiproducesequallystrongreactionsforconsumers.Somelovepequiandfinditadelicacy;otherssimplycannotstandit.
Thepequizeiro,orpequitree,isthesymboloftheCerrado.Itmayreachthirtyormorefeet(tenplusmeters),presentingauniquecanopyeasilyrecognizedfromfaraway.Thetrunkandthebranchesaretwistedandcoveredbyathickbarkofanashygreycolor.Theeight-inch(twentycentimeter)leavesgrowthreetoastem,arehardwithirregularends,andarecoveredbyashinydown.
Thepequizeiro,whichisapleasuretoviewatanytime,becomesmagnificentwhenitblossomsduringthemonthsofSeptemberthroughDecember.Theflowersarespectacular.Amixoffivepinkandlightyellowindependentpetals—aboutthreeinches(eightcentimeters)indiameter—surroundspistilsthatburstbrilliantlyfromthecenterlikefireworksinanightsky.
AroundOctobertheflowerturnsintofruit.ByFebruarythepickingofthematurefruitisatapeak,andpequifloodsthemarketsofGoiásandMinasGerais.Vendorsimprovisestalls,piletheyellowcoreinapyramidshape,andsellthepequibymeasuringitoutinone-litertincans.Ortheytakethewholepequifromabasket,openitwithalargeknife,andfreshlydeliverthefruittopequiexperts.
Onthosedays,insomecitieshundredsofmilesawayfromthedistantCerrado,thestrongaromaofthisexoticfruitisnoticeable.
ThepequitreegrowsalmostanywhereintheCerrado,but,accordingtoinhabitants,thetreesthatareisolatedseemtoproducemorefruit.Thereisapopularsayingthatthepequitreepreferslonelinessratherthantobeclosetoothertrees.
Thepequiisdeeplyrootedintheregion’spopularculture.TheIndiantribes
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Thepequiisdeeplyrootedintheregion’spopularculture.TheIndiantribesfromtheXinguRiverregionsaythatthehummingbirdsandcaimansarethetrueownersofthepequi.
ForthepeoplelivingintheCerrado,thepequidoesnotbelongtoanyonebecauseitbelongstoall.Everyonehastherighttopickit,whetheritgrowsinpublicorprivateland,fencedorunfenced—infact,that’sthereasonpeoplesayitshouldneverbefenced.ThepequiisasspecialastrufflesinFranceandItaly;itispartoftheenvironment,and,recently,peopleareseeingthecommercialvalueofpreservingandincreasingtheproductionofthefruit.
ThetraditionaldishesmadewithpequiarethecenterpiecesofcookingintheCerrado,andtheyarefoundatalltables,regardlessoftheperson’ssocialstatus.Besidesitsgastronomicandculturalvalues,thefruitalsohaslinkstopopularmedicine.Thepit,whenprocessed,isconsideredtobeanaphrodisiac,anditisalsousedtotreatasthma,bronchitis,andcolds.
Todaytheindustryofthepequihaschangedagreatdeal,fromthefarmingoftheplanttothemanufacturingofavarietyofproductsmadewithitsfruit,convertingthepequiintothe“newgoldoftheCerrado.”
Theproductsmadewithpequiincludeoilextractedfromitspitandusedinsmallamountstosautéfoods,toperfumesavoryandsweetsauces,andtoseasonmeats.Thecreamofpequihasamoredelicatetasteandisaddedtostewsandcakes.Itisoftensoldinsmallglassjars.Theliqueurofpequiisappropriateforflambéingandisusedtoenrichfruitsaladanddesserts.Theyellowfleshofthefruitispreservedinfinebrineandisstoredandsoldintallglassjars.Itisusedinmoresubstantialdishesthataskforthetextureofthefruitandastrongertaste.Nexttofreshpequi,thefreshestformofpequitobuyisfrozenpulp,whichisusedinsavorydishes,sweets,andadeliciousicecream.
AmongthepequiloversanddefendersisClovisJosédeAlmeida,whosecompanyworkswiththefruitsoftheCerrado,includingpequi.HiscompanyshipstheproducttothelargestsupermarketsandgourmetstoresinBrazil,anditisnowintheprocessofsellingtothemarketsofItaly,Germany,andJapan.
Byincreasingthedemandfortheproduct,ClovisandseveralothercompanyownersareconvincingpeopleintheregiontofarmthismajesticplantinanenvironmentallyfriendlywaytopreservethisamazingproductoftheBraziliansavannah.Peopleareencouragedtoeitherpreservethepequitreestheyalreadyhaveontheirlandand/orgiveawayseedlingstoplantmore,thusincreasingthenumberofpequitrees.
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TheCookingoftheAmazon
JeandeLèry,aFrenchmantravelinginBrazilin1557,appearedperplexedwiththepungencyofnatureandthemanycuriousspeciesofBrazilianflora.Hewroteabouthowmuchhewasintriguedbythenewworldhewasdiscovering.Nothingseemedtohaveescapedhisaccurateobservation.
Hesaw,forinstance,thatnativesharvestededibleberriesfromtheaçaipalm
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Hesaw,forinstance,thatnativesharvestededibleberriesfromtheaçaipalmtree.Todayharvestingisstilldonewithaclimb.
TheMagicRoot
DeLeryalsowroteaboutanunusualplanttheBraziliannativescultivated:“Thisplanthasasoftstemanditlooksfragilelikeahempplant.ThemostadmirablethingaboutthisplantisthefactthattheIndiansbreakapieceofit,digaholeintheground,andcarelesslyplantit:threemonthslaterthisplanthasgrownimpressivethickroots”(Cascudo1983).OthertravelerssuchasHansStadenandGabrielSoaresdeSouzamentionedatuberthattheynameda“yam,”duetoitsappearance,thattheysawtheIndianseat.Infact,iftheyhadaskedtheIndiansaboutthetuberthatwasindispensabletotheirdiet,theywouldhavebeentolditwasmanioc.
Allchroniclersofthetimesexhaustivelywrote,described,narrated,andregisteredminisculedetailsaboutthepreparationofthecountlessflours,porridges,broths,andcakes,allmadefromthistuberthatPohlhadclassifiedinthesuperlativeasManihotutilissima.
Ifthecultivationofmaniocwasunchallengingandfast,theprocessofmanufacturingthevariousproductsdemandedtime,patience,andorganization.Itwastheprocess,notthecultivation,thathaddeterminedthesedentarylifetheBrazilianIndianshadadopted.
ManiochadbeenvitaltothedietoftheBraziliannativeandhadbeentheaxisaroundwhichIndianlifeturnedforoverfivethousandyears.Givenitscentrality,italsobecameasubjectofmythandlegend.
Therearemanylegendstoldaboutthemanioc.TheoneIpreferredtohearwhenIwasgrowingupisthesameIchoosetotelltodaytomygrandchildrenandgrandnephewsforitsmagicalsimplicity.
Alongtimeago,inthemiddleoftheAmazonforesttherewasatribelivinginacommunityofocas(tallhuts),whichformedataba(Indianvillage).Onedaythetuixau,thechiefofthetaba,learnedthathisdaughterwaspregnant,althoughshedidn’thaveahusband.Herfatherbecameveryangryanddemandedthatthegodssomehowpunishhisdaughter.
NinemonthslatertheyoungIndiangavebirthtoabeautifulgirl,who,tothesurpriseofthewholetaba,hadverywhiteskinandbegantotalkandwalk
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surpriseofthewholetaba,hadverywhiteskinandbegantotalkandwalkimmediatelyafterbirth.ThebabygirlwasnamedMani,whichmeans“white”intheTupilanguage.Mani’sbirthmadethewholetribehappy,andthatyeartherewerenowars,andtherewasanabundanceoffood.
ThenwhenManiwasonlyoneyearold,shesuddenlydied!Shewasn’tillandnoaccidenthadhappened;shejustclosedhereyesandneveropenedthemagain.
Thewholetribebecamesadandunhappy,warseruptedagain,andthefishandgamedisappeared.
Maniwasburiedinsidethesameocawhereshehadlived.Everyday,followingthetribetradition,hermotherwenttotendMani’stomb.
Aftersometimehadpassed,somethingextraordinaryhappened:aplantnoonehadseenbeforestartedtogrowonMani’stomb!Everybodywasamazedtoseetheplantgrowingandgrowingandgrowing...
Thewholetribewasquitedisturbedanddecidedtoconsultwiththeirpajé(shaman).Afterthemeetingwasover,thepajéorderedthatMani’sbodyberemovedfromthatsiteandburiedsomewhereelse.
Everybodygatheredaroundthetomb.TheelderIndiansopeneditandfoundtotheirsurprisethatMani’sbodywasnotinside!Rather,astheydug,intheplaceofMani’sbodytheyencounteredthickroots.Therootswerelargewithacoarse,darkskinthatcontrastedwiththeinside,whichwasimpeccablywhite.
Theydecidedtoboiltheroot,and,astheytastedit,theyconcludedthatsuchasweetanddeliciousrootwasagiftfromthegodTupã!Mani’srootswerethengrowntofeedtheIndiansandavoidayearoffamine.
TheIndianscalledtherootMani-oca,orMani’splant,becausetheplantgrewfromMani’stomb.
ThisnarrativeofthewaythisextraordinaryplantdevelopscloselyreflectsthewaythedailylifeofagroupofIndiansunfolds,howtheyusetheirtime,andhowtasksaredistributedamongtheresidentslivinginthetaba.
ThemethodIndiansusetodaytoprocessmaniocismuchthesameasitwascenturiesbefore,anditsmanyproductsarestillusedforthesamekindofcooking.Itiscommontofindcharmingandrusticcasasdefarinhaincommunitiesaroundtheregion,wherepeoplebringtheirownmaniocand,by
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usingthetraditionalprocessinheritedfromtheIndians,makethevariousproductsfromthisgeneroustuber.
Thecommercialprocessinginvolvesthesamestepsbutusesdifferent(and,ofcourse,bigger)equipmentforeachstep.Inparticular,thestepofseparatingtheliquidcontentofthemaniocisdonebylargepressesthatbeardownonthemaniocchips,leavingthemalmostdry,beforetheyaremovedintothegas-firedtoastingpans.
Themaniocplantgrowsyearroundandhasproventobeextremelyresilientagainstdiseaseandinsects.Theplanthasathin,leafystalkandgrowsfiveorsixfeet(1.5to1.8meters)high.Therootoftheplantisthemaniocitself,anditgrowshorizontallyunderonlyafewinchesoftopsoil.Onehasonlytopulltheplantoutofthesoilbyitsstalktorevealandharvestthemanioc.
Asinoldentimes,todaythewholetribeisinvolved,insomecapacity,withmanioccultivationandproduction.
Themaledecideswheretoplant.Hepreparesgardensofmaniocbycleaningtheundergrowth,cuttingthetrees,andburningthedriedwood.Thewomenbringthestalkstheytookfromapreviousgardenandplantthemintheground,leavingabouttwofeet(.6meters)ofspacebetweeneach.
Lessthanayearlater,themaniocfromtheseplantsisreadytobeharvested.That’sthemomentwhenthetribegetsorganizedandbeginsgatheringeverythingnecessarytoprocessthemanioc.Thetribewillstopworkingonlywhentheyhaveprocessedallofit.
Thewomenareinchargeoftheharvestingand,workingtogether,theydigouttheroots,peelthem,andwashthepeeledmaniocsintheriver.
Afterthat,theytakethemanioctothehousetobegrated.There,youngwomenjointhegroupsittingonthefloor,andallgratetheroots,usinglargegratingboardsmadefromshells,whichtheyplaceacrossthemouthofaceramicpotoragourd.Thesloppymashiscollectedinthepot.
Therearedifferentwaystopresstheliquidout,andoneofthemisbyusingtheinterestingIndiantooltipiti.Thetipitiisafive-foot-long(1.6meters)cylinderaboutfiveinches(12.7centimeters)across.Itismadeofbias-wovenstripsofpalmleaf.Thiscombinationofmaterialandgeometryallowsthetipititoconstrictwhenitispulledlengthwise,sortoflikeagiantChinesefingerpuzzle.
Gratedmaniocisstuffedintothetipiti,whichisthensuspendedfromarafter
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Gratedmaniocisstuffedintothetipiti,whichisthensuspendedfromarafterandattachedtoahundred-poundweightatitsbottomend.Thusconstricted,thegratedmaniocemitsaliquidstarch,whichstreamsoutthebottomofthetipitiintoagourd.Thegourdsarethenstoredwetinbeautifulbasketskeptintheocas.Nowtheprocessofdecantingthejuicestarts.Themaniocjuiceisboiledwithfragrantnativeherbsformanyhoursinalargeceramicpotoveranopenfireinordertoremoveanycyanoticacid.
Whenthedecantingprocessisdone,menremovethepotfromthefireandplaceitintheopenairtocool.Withgreatenthusiasmeverybodygathersaroundthepot,andthemenpourthecooledliquidintosmallindividualgourds.Traditionally,theyofferitfirsttothewomenandthentoalltheothermenpresentatthissocialoccasion,celebratingthefirstgiftofthismagicplant.Therestoftheliquidisthenstoredtobelaterusedinvariousdishesandbeverages.Whatisleftatthebottomofthegourdbecomesaviscous,starchy,gumlikeproductthatwillbeprocessedseparately.
Thenthewomenremovethefibermassofgratedmaniocfrominsidethetipitiandtakeittothetribe’siapuna(oven)tobedriedandroasted.Likealltheotherutensilsusedtocookandeat,thewomenmanufacturetheirowniapuna,whichisalarge,roundearthenwaretrayonaroundbaseunderwhichafireislit.
Usingatoolthatresemblesahoe,awomanpatientlypushesthefiberslowlyinever-largercirclessothemaniocisuniformlyroasted.Thisprocessofdryingandroastingmakesthemaniocflour,anddrivingoutthewaterisessentialforitslong-termstorage.
Thelaststepinprocessingmaniocisthemakingofthetastytapioca,obtainedfromthestarchcollectedfromthebottomofthegourdsthatwasstoredinthebaskets.
Thewetstarchishand-pressedthroughasquare,wovenpalm-leafstrainerthatformsthestarchintolittleballs.
Thestrainedlittleballsarecollectedbelowonawoodentrayandarebroughttotheiapunatobecookedanddried.Theminusculelittleballspopwiththeheatastheyreleaseadelicatesweetaromathatimpregnatesthewholeplace.Thissoundisidenticaltothesoundofroastingpopcorn.Theproductofthisroastingistapiocaflour,sometimescalledbeiju.Tapiocaisusedtopreparesoups,porridges,anddesserts.Itisalsousedtomakedeliciousthincrepescalledtapioquinha,servedforsnacksandbreakfast.
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Attheendofthislongandcarefulprocess,thefamilieshavefourpreciousmaniocproducts.Theseproductsserveasabasefortheirfoodovermostoftheyear.Indeed,thestaplethemaniocprovidesisthesourceofnumerousdishesthathavemadeIndiancookingdistinctiveandunchangedthroughoutcenturies.Onedishispirão,asortofporridgemadewiththeroastedmaniocflour,fishbroth,andtheherbnhambi,akindofcoriander;anotherisfarofa,asidedishbasedonmaniocflourtowhichalmostanyextrafoodthatishandythatdayisaddedandthenfriedorroastedinthemanioc.Inquitayamaniocisamixofhotpeppersandarusticformofsaltcollectedfromseawater(thisiseatenbythenativeslivingonthecoast),andpaçocaisapoundeddryfishmealmixedwithmaniocflour.Thentherearesoupsandstewsmadewithfreshhotpeppersandtucupi,theuniquebrothproducedwiththejuiceextractedfromthemaniocwiththetipiti.
OtherelementsoftheIndiandietthathavesodeeplyinfluencedBraziliancuisinearefishandgame,heartsofpalm,corn,sweetpotatoes,somebeans,and,mostofall,anextraordinarynumberoffantasticfruitsandhotpeppers.
TraditionalCooking
AccordingtoPeroVazdeCaminha(thescribefortheKingofPortugal),whenthePortuguesearrivedinthe1500s,theywereamazedwiththevariety,fragrance,taste,andcolorsofthefruitstheysawinthenewland.Healsoreportedextensivelyaboutthequalityandquantityofredandyellowhotpeppers,thepopularchilies.Thesechilies,fromtheCapsicumbaccatumfamily,areusedabundantlyindishesfromtheAmazonregion,andtheyarecommonlyusedalloverBrazil.InBrazil,however,hotspicesareusuallyservedonthesidesothattheiruseisoptional,contrastingwithcountrieslikeMexicoandIndiawherehotspicesareusuallyalreadyincorporatedintothedishandarethusunavoidable.
TheheartoftheAmazonianIndianhouseistheirbarbecue,knownbythemasthemoquém.AlmostallEuropeans,whotraveledinBrazilfromthesixteenthcenturyonatemealspreparedbythecunhãs(Indianwomen)onthisnativebarbecue.Again,itwastheFrenchmanJeandeLèrywhodescribedthemoquémindetail:
Ateachcornerofafour-foot-longsquare,Indiansplantaforkedpoleaboutthreefeethigh.Thentheymakeafour-foot-squarehorizontalgridfromsticks
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spacedoneinchapart.Vinessecurethesesticksandthenthegridisfixedatopthefourpoles.Eachfamilyhasitsownmoquém.Usingselecteddrywoodstoavoidsmoke,theylightalowfireandslowlystartgrillingthemeatsbyturningthemaroundeveryquarterofanhouruntiltheyarethoroughlycooked.Sincetheydonotusesaltaswedo,thisistheonlywaybywhichtheyseemtobeabletopreservetheirfood(Fernandes2002).
Themoquém,aneffectivetoolusedtocookallkindsoffoodsfromgame,fish,andfowlstovegetablesandfruits,isalsoextremelyefficientinfixingtheflavorandcolorofthefoodandpreservingthefood’scharacter.
Thecunhãs,praisedbythePortugueseasbeinggoodcooks,usedinterestingstrategiestogrillfoodsonthemoquém.Oneofthemwastowrapthefoodinlargeleavessuchasthepacova(anativebanana)andplaceitonthemoquémtobecooked.Thetravelersofthetimesclaimedtheresultwastrulysuccessful:foodnotonlykeptitsnaturalmoisture,butthetastewasintensifiedandtheleavescouldbeeatenaswell.Interestingly,thenativesspreadcopiousamountsofhotpeppersontheirfoodthatapparentlymademanyEuropeanssicktotheirstomachs.
Anothernativewayofcookingwasusingclaypotsandgourds.Thecunhãspreparedsoupswiththetucupi,suchasquinhapiraandtacacá,aswellashotalcoholicbeverageslikecaxiriintheclaypots.
Thegourds,usedcommonlyaseatingutensils,haveremainedpopularandarestilllargelyusedtoday.Theycomefromafruitthatgrowsonarobustvine,andtheirshaperesemblesaroundsquashlocalscallcuias.
Duringthe1600s,JesuitstravelinginthenewlandnotedintheirjournalsthatBrazil’sindigenouspeoplehadanobviouspreferenceforliquidfoods,preferredtoeatmanysmallmealsaday,andthattheyintenselydislikedsalt.
Thetacacá,adelicioussoupservedingourds,isextremelypopulartoday.Thistypicalnativedish,thatseemsnottohaveequivalentinanyothercuisine,ismadewithtucupi,garlic,theherbjambu,driedshrimp,andthestarchymaniocflour.Byfiveo’clockintheafternoon,vendorsareonthestreetsinmanyneighborhoodsofBelémandManaussellingtacacá.Residentshavetheirfavoritecartswheretheystopfortheirafternoontacacá.
Belém
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InthebeautifulcityofBelém,onefeelstransportedtoanotherworldwheretropicaltemperatures,luxuriantforests,andriversflowingfromeverywhereformaremarkableestuaryfullofallsortsoflife!
ThedocksontheGuamáRiverdatetothelatenineteenthcenturyandhavebeenbeautifullyrestoredtoday.
SomeoftheriverboatscomingandgoingfromBelém’sdockscarrypassengers,whileothersareloadedwithfish,vegetables,andfruitscomingfromdistantshorestobedeliveredtothemarketVeroPeso.ThisastonishingmarketistheheartofthecityofBelém,andasaheart,itseemsthatitneverstopspumping!
Asearlyasthreeo’clockinthemorning,hundredsoflargeandsmallboatsaretightlypackedfourdeepalongtheright-anglepier.Theboatsarriveloadedwithaprofusionoffishandshellfish,caughtinthegenerouswateroftheriversoftheAmazonbasin,whichwillbeshippedandsoldtofishmarketsincitiessuchasNewYorkandLondon.
Oncethere,thefishtakeonnewnames:pargobecomesCaribbeanredsnapper,ciobaiscalledredtail,andcatuáisstrawberryfish.Hundredsofmenworkfreneticallyintheopen-airmarketliftingwoodenboxesfilledwithheavymassesoffish.
Amazingly,theycarrytheheavyloadsskillfullybalancedontopoftheirheads.Walkingfast,theytaketheboxestobeweighedontheold-fashionednineteenth-centuryscalesalongthepier.
Moneychangeshandsrapidlyasthetradersdecidethevaluesofthemerchandiseoftheday.Thefisharesoldatpricesthatvaryaccordingtothequantity,thusfollowingtheoldlawofsupplyanddemand.
Oncethetransactionsarefinished,thestrongportersdeliverthecontentstothenumeroustrucksthathavebeenwaitingacrossthesquare.Thesevaluablefisharelaidonthickbedsoficeonthefloorsofthetrucks,thusassuringthat,afteralongjourney,theyarrivefreshattheirfinaldestination.
VeroPeso
Tothesideofthefishmarketisthelate-nineteenth-centurybuildingoftheVeroPeso.Consideredahistoricallandmark,itisalsothecity’siconwithitsunmistakabletwosteeple-liketowersandironstructure.
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Infrontofthetowersarehundredsofstalls,displayingafantasticarrayofregionalfruit,hotpeppers,herbs,andthevariousmaniocproducts.
Thefruitfillsthemarketwithanextraordinaryvarietyofcolorsandaromas.Ononesidearepilesandpilesofaçaípresentedinattractivebaskets.Cashewfruit,yellowandred,arebeautifullyarrangedinacircularshape,exhalingtheirinimitablefragrance.
Thegrotesque-lookingfruitcupuaçúisalsosold.Itisteninches(25.4centimeters)longandweighsabouttwopounds(.9kilograms),butithasarichpulpthatisusedinconcoctingfinedessertslikesorbetsandmousses.Andfromitsfattynuts,itispossibletoextractapaste(similartothecacao),whichproducesadeliciouschocolate!
Enthusiasticmerchantsgiveallkindsofinformationandadviceabouttheproductstheysell,tellingstoriesandmythsthatlendamagicaltouchtothetransaction.
AwholesectionoftheVeroPesoisreservedforthemultiplicityoffreshherbsandgreens;sometimesusedasmedicines,theyarealsoindispensableingredientstothesplendidregionaldishes.Amongthemanyherbs,themostusedarethejambuandatypeofcoriandercalledchicória.
Thejambu,alsoknownasthewatercressofPará,isanintriguingherbthat,besideshavingaslightbittertaste,givesafunnysensationofnumbnessinthemouth.Thechicória,orParácoriander,hasasimilartastetocorianderanditsuseisessentialinthepreparationoftucupi.
VeroPesoalsohasaseriesofstandsdisplayingahugevarietyofhotpeppersofallkindsandcolors,fromdeepredtoyellow,pink,green,andpurple;eachonehasadifferenttasteanddegreeofpiquancy,andsomearedangerouslyhot.
Hundredsofbottlesofvibrantyellowtucupiareuniformlylinedalongacounteratthemarket.Eachbottleliststhenameofthetucupiproducer.Itseemsthatsomepeoplewillonlybuytucupifromaspecificsource.
Themaniocflours—moundsofwhite,starchygoma;sacsofshiny,roastedyellowandwhiteflour;crunchytapioca—areallmadeinthemaniocmillsacrosstherivers.Itisinterestingtoobservethelocalbuyerstastingtheflours:theyputaspoonfulintheirhandandliterallythrowitintotheirmouths.Itdefinitelytakessomeskillnottohavetheflourfallingalloverone’schinandclothes.
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clothes.
Itisremarkabletofollowthewaysfoodshavebeendisseminatedaroundtheworld!
WhenRichardandIaresittingaroundourBraziliantablewithourguests,itisalwaysfuntoseetheirsurprisedexpressionswhenItellthemthatthetapiocaflour,sopopulararoundtheworld,originallycamestraightfromthebackyardsofBrazilians.Asearlyasthemid-sixteenthcentury,thePortuguesebroughtitfromBraziltoGoaandMacao,andfromthereitspreadtoSouthAsia,Europe,andtheUnitedStates.Andtheyareenlightenedthateventheword“tapioca”isfromtheTupilanguage.
GuestsaresurprisedtolearnthattheAfricanswhoreturnedhomefromBrazilinthenineteenthcenturybroughtwiththemsomeofthedishesthataresopopularinNigeriatoday.ThesedisheswerecreatedduringtheslaveryperiodbyAfricanwomenwhocookedwithnativeIndianingredientsonBrazilianstoves.
TheylovetohearthatthecashewnutwemunchonforsnacksandappetizersandthatisusedinAsiancuisineistheprincipalpartofafragrantandcolorfulfruit.TheIndianscallitacauí,andlikethetapioca,itwasfirsttakenfromBraziltoAfricaandIndiabyPortugueseships.
TheyaredelightedtofindoutthatthechiliessocommontodayinThaicuisineoncecamefromAmazonIndians’gardens!
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TheRecipesoftheAmazon
AppetizersandSalads
BrazilianGardenSalad
Serves6
Vinaigrette
1tablespoonsalt1teaspoonblackpepper1teaspoonnutmeg2tablespoonslimejuice5teaspoonsorangeflowerblossom(optional)Juicefromorangesections(below)1teaspoonorangezest6tablespoonsoliveoil
Salad
1cuppeeledandjuliennedchayote4cupslettuce,washedanddried2cupswatercress,picked,washedanddried1cuppeeledandsectionedorange,savingthejuice1(14-ounce)canheartsofpalm,drainedandcutcrosswisein1/2-inchslices
Vinaigrette
1.Inasmallbowl,mixthesalt,pepper,andnutmegtogether.Whiskinthelimejuice,theorangeflowerblossom,thejuicefromtheorangesections,andtheorangezestuntilyouobtainahomogeneousmixture.Addtheoliveoil,whiskinginvigorously.
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Salad
2.Inamedium-sizebowl,pourin3teaspoonsofthevinaigretteandaddthechayote.Tossgently.Presstoremovetheexcessandreserve.Proceedinthesamewaywiththelettuceandthewatercress,tossinggently.
3.Onalarge,flatservingdish,spreadtherestofthevinaigretteinthecenterofthedish.Placeapileofthegreensinthemiddleofthedish,makingitashighaspossible.Arrangethechayotearoundthegreens,andthendecorate,alternatingtheorangesandtheheartsofpalmontopofthechayote.
4.Pourtheremainingdressingaroundthesalad.
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ShrimpSoupwithBrazilNutMilk
Serves6
4-1/2cupsmilk,divided2cupsshrimpbroth,divided1/2cuptapiocaflour1cupBrazilnuts1/2cupmedium-hotwater,divided2ripetomatoes,peeledandseeded1cupchoppedonion,divided(1/2cupfinelychopped)1/2cuppeeled,seededandchoppedredbellpepper2tablespoonsoliveoil2garliccloves,peeledandchopped2poundsmedium-sizeshrimp,peeled,deveinedandwashed1bouquetgarni(2sprigsparsley,1bayleaf,2sprigsscallions)Salttotaste1-1/2teaspoonsbutter1teaspoonachiotepowder
1.Heat1cupmilkand1cupshrimpbroth.Placethetapiocainatrayandpourthehotliquidoverit,mixinggentlywithafork.Coverandreserve.
2.Placethenutsinafoodprocessororblenderwithjustenoughhotwatertocoverthem.Processfor2–3minutesoruntilitbecomesapaste.Placethepasteinacleannapkinandplaceoveraglassmeasuringcup.Pourtheremaininghotwateroverit.Withonehand,holdthecornersofthenapkintogethertightlyandtwistthenapkinwiththeotherhand.Twistthenapkinasyoupressthebottomofthenapkinwherethepasteis.Presshardto“milk”thegratedBrazilnut.Youshouldgetabout1/2to1cupofBrazilnutmilk.Reserve.
3.Inafoodprocessororablender,processthetomatoes,onion,andbellpepperuntilitturnsintoapaste.
4.Inamedium-sizesaucepan,warmtheoliveoilandsautéthegarlicuntilthegarlicislightlygolden.Addtheshrimp,theprocessedvegetables,andthe
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garlicislightlygolden.Addtheshrimp,theprocessedvegetables,andthebouquetgarni.Seasonwithsalt.Stirwellandallowtocookabout5minutesoruntiltheshrimpturnspink.Removefromtheheatandreserve.
5.Inastockpot,heatthebutterandsautéthe1/2cupfinelychoppedonionuntilsoft.Addtherestofthemilkandshrimpbrothandallowtoboilgentlywhileaddingtherestoftheingredients.
6.Rubthetapiocamixturebetweenthepalmsofyourhandstocrumbleituntilitbecomestender.Additslowlytothestockpot,stirringwell.Foldintheshrimpwiththeblendedvegetables.Removebouquetgarni.RemovefromheatandslowlywhiskintheBrazilnutmilk.Salttotaste.Pourthesoupinto6servingbowlsandsprinkleachioteontopofthesoup.
7.Serveatonce.
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Tacacá(AmazonSoupwithShrimpandManiocStarch)
Serves6
1bunchescarole3bunchesjambuor2cupswatercress,washedanddried6cupstucupi1tablespoonsalt,plussaltforboiling5garliccloves,peeledandsmashed1bunchcoriander1gallonwater1poundmaniocstarch(polvilho)3hotchilies2poundssmallshrimp,deveined,washed,andblanched
1.Washanddrytheescaroleandfreshjambu.Cutinchiffonadeandreserve.
2.Inalargesaucepan,bringthetucupitoaboil.Lowertheheat;addthesalt,garlic,escarole,andcorianderandsimmer,covered,for30minutes.Reserve.
3.Ifthejambuisfresh,chopitupandcookwithwaterfor1/2hour.(Ifitisfrozen,blanchfor3minutes.)Drainandpresstoremovetheexcessliquid.Reserve.
4.Inastockpot,bring1gallonofwaterandsalttoboil.Lowertheheatandaddthestarchslowlythroughyourfingersasyouwhiskquicklytopreventlumps.Thismaytake10–15minutes.Letsimmerforanother15minutes,stirringwithaspoonuntilitturnsintoathickporridge.Removefromthestove,butkeepwarm.
5.Inasmallservingbowl,crushthechilieswith4tablespoonstucupiandreserve.
6.Toserve,pour1/2ladleofporridgeintoagourdorsoupbowl;add1cupoftucupiandthegreensovertheporridgeandthenacoupletablespoonsofjambu.Add5shrimpandservewiththehotsauceontheside.
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PatonoTucupi(TucupiDuckSoup)
Serves6
2garliccloves,peeledSaltandfreshlygroundpeppertotasteJuiceof2limes1bayleaf,crumbled2poundsduck,washed1/2cupwater5cupstucupijuice1/2cupjambu,sorrel,orwatercress,washedanddrained2cupschicory,washedanddrained,cutinchiffonade
1.Preheattheovento300degreesF.Inalargebowl,crushthegarlic,salt,pepper,limejuice,andbayleaf.Addtheduck;turntocoat.Coverandmarinateintherefrigeratorfor2hours,turningtheduckonce.
2.Placetheduckonarackinaroastingpan.Pourremainingmarinadeand1/2cupwaterintothepan.Placethepanonthelowerovenrackandroastfor1houroruntiltheskiniscrispandjuicesrunclearwhenthethighisprickedwithafork.
3.Coolandcutinto6pieces,removingthebackboneandwingtips.
4.Placetheduckinalargenonreactivesaucepanandbarelycoverwithwater;cookgentlyfor1hourovermediumheat.Addthetucupijuiceandsimmerfor30minutes.
5.Bringapotofwatertoaboilandplungeinthejambuorsorrelfor2minutes.Drainandchopthejambu,andaddtothetucupisoup.Ifusingsorrelorwatercress,adddirectlytothetucupi.Removetheduckpiecesfromthepan,separatethemeatfromthebones,andshredthemeatintosmallpieces.
6.Toserve,takeasoupbowlandplace1/2cupchicoryonthebottom,followedby5tablespoonsoftheshreddedduckand2cupsofthebroth.
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7.ServeasafirstcourseorasamaindishwithriceorFarofa.
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MainCourses
CaldeiradadePeixedoPará(ParáFishStew)
Serves6
4poundsmonkfishfilets6garliccloves2tablespoonschoppedcilantroJuiceof4limes3tablespoonsfreshchilies2tablespoonssalt6largenewpotatoes1bunchscallions,divided1bunchparsley,divided8cupsfishstock6tablespoonsoliveoil1poundmedium-sizewholefirmtomatoes1poundmedium-sizewholeonions,peeled1poundshrimp,withoutshells6boiledeggs,peeled4sprigscilantro,forgarnish
1.Washthefishfiletswithwater.Inamortar,crushthegarlic,cilantro,limejuice,chilies,andsalt.Placethemarinadeandfishinabowl,cover,andmarinatefor1hour.
2.Peelthepotatoes;placetheminabowlofcoldwaterandreserve.Tie1/2ofthescallionsand1/2oftheparsleytogetherwithstringtomakeabouquetgarni.
3.Inanearthenwarepotorabraiserpan,boilthefishstock,oliveoil,andthebouquetgarnifor10minutes.
4.Putinthepotatoes,lowertheheat,andcookthepotatoesfor8minutes.Distributethefish,thetomatoes,andtheonionsaroundthepanandtopwiththerestoftheherbs.Letitsimmergently,uncovered,for5minutes.
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restoftheherbs.Letitsimmergently,uncovered,for5minutes.
5.Arrangetheshrimparoundthepanandcookforanother5minutes.Cuttheboiledeggsinhalf,arrangethemaroundthepan,andsimmerforanother3minutes.
6.ServeatoncewithwhitericeorScaldedPirão.Decoratewithcilantrosprigs.
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AmazonStyleFish
Serves6
TomatoSauce
2tablespoonsvegetableoil1cupchoppedonions6garliccloves,peeledandchopped3tablespoonschoppedcilantroSaltandpeppertotaste1poundtomatoes,peeled,seeded,andquarteredor1(16-ounce)canwholetomatoes,quartered
2teaspoonsTabascosauceor1malaguetapepper,crushed
Fish
8teaspoonssalt,divided2tablespoonslimejuice6cupswater,divided6largeshrimp,peeledbutwithtailson6squaresofbananaleaf(foundinAsianfoodstores)or1–2wholeyoungbananaleaves(ifusingawholefish)
3poundswholetilefish,bonedandopeninbutterfly(headandtailon)or6fishfilets
FarofaGrilledBananasOnionConfit
TomatoSauce
1.Inamediumsaucepan,heatthevegetableoilandsautétheonionsovermedium-lowheatuntiltheysoften.Addthegarlic,mixingwell,andthenthecilantro.Stiracoupleoftimes.Seasonwiththesaltandpepper.Addthe
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cilantro.Stiracoupleoftimes.Seasonwiththesaltandpepper.AddthetomatoesandtheTabascoormalaguetapepper.Cookfor3minutesandsetaside.
Fish
2.Preheattheovento325degreesF.Inasmallbowl,combine4teaspoonssaltandthelimejuice.Reserve.
3.Inasmallsaucepan,bringtoboil2cupswaterwith4teaspoonssalt.Place2shrimpatatimeinthepanandcookthemfor2–3minutes.Removefromthepanandimmerseinicewater.Drainandreserve.
4.Ifusingfreshbananaleaves,inamedium-sizefryingpan,boil4cupswater.Usingtongs,carefullyimmerseonebananaleafsquareandblanchfor1–2minutes.Removeandstrain.Theleafisnowshinyandgreen.Repeatwithotherleavesandreserve.
5.Ifusingawholebananaleaf,passitrapidlyoveranopenflameuntiltheleafturnsshinyandsoft.
6.Placethebananaleafopenonthecounterandsprinklewith1teaspoonofthesaltedlimejuice.Placethefishfiletontopofthebananaleafandsprinkleagainwithanotherteaspoonofthesaltedlimejuice.Usingadessertspoon,spreadthetomatosauce1/2inchwidelengthwiseinthecenterofthefilet.Ontopofthat,buildalengthwisemoundoffarofa.Cutacoupleofpiecesofgrilledbananaandplacethemontopofthefarofa.Alternatewith2onionconfit;pressdownslightlywiththepalmofthehand.Gentlyrollupthefishsothecontentsremaininplace.Ithelpstocupyourhandsaroundthesideoftherollandpressinasthoughyouweremakingasnowball.Foldthebananaleafaroundthefishasifyouwerewrappingapresent,andpineachendwithatoothpick.
7.Ifyouareusingawholefish,youneedalargebananaleaf.Placethefishopenontopofthebananaleaf.Spread2–3tablespoonsofsaltedlimejuiceontheleafandplacethewholefishontheleaf.Fillthefishinthesamewayasdescribedabove.Closethefishandwrapitwiththebananaleaf,tyingitwithapieceofstringorusingatoothpick.
8.Placethewrappedfishinabakingdish.Pour1cupwateronthebottomofthepanandbakefor20minutes,or30minutesifmakingawholefish.
9.Toserve,openthebananaleaf,foldingitunderthefishfilet.Place1teaspoonofthetomatosauceontopofthefish.Carefullyplaceamedium-sizeshrimp
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ofthetomatosauceontopofthefish.Carefullyplaceamedium-sizeshrimpencirclingthetomatosauce.Place1tablespoonoffarofaontheplate,encirclingthefish,andbesideitplace2grilledbananasand2onionconfit.Servewithmalaguetasauceontheside.
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ShrimpJuquitaya
Serves6
Paste
1/2teaspooncoarsesalt6teaspoonsurucumorachiote1/2teaspooncayenne1/2teaspoonmalaguetapepper,seeded1tablespoonoliveoil1/2teaspoonlimejuice
Shrimp
1poundlargeshrimp,peeled,deveined,andwashed(leavethetailon)3poundspumpkin2cupswater1tablespoonsalt1cuporangejuice6piecesorangepeel1/2cupbutter4tablespoonsoliveoil,divided3tablespoonslimejuice,divided3cupswatercress,picked,washed,anddried,fordecorationSaltandpeppertotaste6teaspoonsurucumorachiote,forgarnish
Paste
1.Inamortar,grindtogethersalt,urucumorachiote,cayenne,andmalaguetapepper.Addtheoliveoilandlimejuiceandmix,makingapaste.
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Shrimp
2.Rubtheshrimpwiththepasteandletmarinatefor1hour.
3.Cutacircle1-1/2incheswidefromthelargestpartofthepumpkin.Inabraiserpan,boilenoughsaltedwatertocoverthepumpkinring,andcookthepumpkinringfor8minutes.Drainthepumpkin.Cleantheinnerpartofthecircle,removinganyfiberthathasremainedfromthecookingprocess.
4.Cuttherestofthepumpkinintolargechunks.Bringwater,salt,orangejuice,andorangepeeltoaboilinalargesaucepanandcookthepumpkinpiecesuntiltheybecomesoft.Drainandsave1cupoftheliquid.Peelthepumpkinand,usingapotatomasher,mashthepumpkintomakeapurée.Foldinthebutter,addsomeofthecookingliquid,andbeatwithaspoonuntilitbecomessmooth.Keepwarm.
5.Inaskillet,heat2tablespoonsoilandseartheshrimponbothsidesfor3–4minutes.Inthesameskillet,add2tablespoonslimejuiceanddeglazethepan,shakingacoupleoftimes.Keepitwarmandreserve.
6.Placethepumpkincircleinthemiddleofanattractiveplate.Filltheinteriorofthecirclewiththepuréeandarrangethegrilledshrimparoundthecircle.
7.Tossthewatercresswith1tablespoonlimejuice,2tablespoonsoliveoil,salt,andpepperandarrangeitaroundthepumpkincircle.
8.Sprinkleachioteorurucumaroundtheplateandserveatonce.
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FishBrochettewithPineapple
Serves6
2poundsfishsteaks(yellowtail,hake,orseawolf)2tablespoonsurucumorachiote2tablespoonscoarsesalt4tablespoonsoliveoil1medium-sizepineapple6skewers
1.Removetheskinsfromthefishandcuteachfishsteakinto2-inchsquares.Reserveandkeepcold.
2.Inasmallbowl,mixtheurucumwiththesaltandoliveoil.
3.Peelthepineappleandcutinto4pieces,lengthwise.Takeoutthecoreandcutthepineappleinto2-inchcubes.
4.Inalargebowl,tossthefishsquareswiththeseasonedoil.Drainthefishandreserveanyleftoveroil.Skewerthefishandthepineapple,alternatingthecubes.
5.Placetheskewersinabarbecuepreheatedto300degreesF.Grillfor4minutes.Beforeturningtheskewers,brushthemwiththeremainingoil.Whenthefishiscooked,servethebrochetteswithFarofaorManiocwithSautéedOnions.
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StuffedTomatoeswithManiocFlourandCashewNuts
Serves4
2largetomatoes,ripe2teaspoonssugar1/2cupcashewnuts,roasted1-1/2cupsFarofa4-1/2tablespoonsoliveoil,divided1/3cupcrumbledbluecheese1/2cupscallions,divided(1/4cupchoppedfinely)1cupwatercressandarugula,washedanddriedSaltandpeppertotaste
1.Washanddrythetomatoes.Cutoffasmallslicefromthetopofeachtomato.Placetomatoescut-sidedownonthecuttingboard.
2.Usingthepointofaparingknifeinaverticalposition,makeacircularincision1/2inchdeepand2incheswide.Youshouldendupwith2niceconicaltomatopieceswithapointattheend.Reservefordecoration.Corethetomatoes.
3.Sprinkletheinsideofthetomatoeswithsugarandturnthemupsidedownonaplate.Thetomatoeswillreleasesomewater.
4.Select4beautifulcashewnutsandsavethemfordecoration.Coarselycrushtherestofthecashewnutsandreserve.
5.Justbeforeyoufinishcookingthefarofa,mixin3tablespoonsoliveoil,thecrumbledcheese,thecrushedcashewnuts,and1/4cupfinelychoppedscallions.Mixwellandreserve.
6.Turnthetomatoes,placethemonthecounter,andsprinklewithsalt.Usingaspoon,filleachtomatowith1/2ofthefarofamixture,pressinglightly.Topwiththerestofthefarofamixture,awholecashewnut,andacoupleofpiecesofscallion.Arrangeonasaladplatewiththetomatointhecenter.
7.Inamedium-sizebowl,tossthewatercressandarugulawithremainingoliveoil,salt,andpepper.Arrangearoundthetomatoes.Placeroundtomatotopby
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oil,salt,andpepper.Arrangearoundthetomatoes.Placeroundtomatotopbytheside.
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SideDishes
OnionConfit
Serves6
5-1/2cupswater,divided3cupssmallyellowwholeonions1tablespoonvegetableoil6tablespoonsbutter5teaspoonssalt
1.Bring5cupswatertoboilinapotandblanchtheonionsfor2minutes.Whentheyarecoolenoughtohandle,peeltheonionsandreserve.
2.Heatoilandbutterinaheavyskilletoverlowheat.Placetheonionsintheskilletandturnthemastheybecomegolden,shakingthepanconstantly.Addmorebutterifneeded.Keepshakingtheskillettomovetheonionsaroundinordertomakethemgolden.Itwilltakearound15minutes.
3.Whentheonionsaregoldenandcooked,turnofftheheatandlettheskilletcool.Pour1/2cupwaterandthesaltintotheskilletandsimmer,shakingtheskilletwellandscrapingthebottomofthepan.Letitcoolcompletelyandthenplacetheonionsinajar.Coveronionswiththeliquidfromtheskillet.Refrigerateupto3weeks.
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Farofa
Serves6
4tablespoonsoliveoilorbutter4garliccloves,finelychopped2cupsmaniocflour(preferablytheyellowkind)Saltandpeppertotaste
1.Inamedium-sizeskillet,heattheoilorbutteroverlowheatandsautéthegarlic.Whenthegarlicissoft,pourthemaniocflourthroughyourfingersasyoustirslowly,mixingitwiththebutter.
2.Whenallthefatisabsorbedbytheflour,gentlymixwithaspatula,movingtheflourfromonesidetotheothertoroastit.Thefarofaisreadywhenitchangescolorfromlightyellowtoamorevividyellow.Seasonwithsaltandpepper.
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GrilledBananas
Serves6
8bananas,firmbutnotgreen2tablespoonsvegetableoil4tablespoonsbutterOR6tablespoonsoliveoil
1.Peelthebananas.Placeabananaonacuttingboardand,usingonehandtosecureit,gentlyslicethebananainhalflengthwisewithasharpknife.Dothesamewiththeotherbananas.Reserve.
2.Inaheavyskillet,warmthevegetableoilandbutterortheoliveoil.Whenitstartsfoaming,place2halvesofthebananaatatimeintheskilletandgrillononesidefor3–4minutesoruntilgoldenbrown.Turnthebananagentlywithaspatulaandgrilltheotherside.
3.Removethebananasfromtheskilletandplacetheminaservingdish.
4.Serveatonceorheatintheovenonmedium-highheat,coveredwithfoil,for5minutes.
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ManiocwithSautéedOnions
Serves6
2poundsmanioc,peeled(freshorfrozen)1gallonwater3tablespoonssalt6tablespoonsbutter2cupsjuliennedonionBlackpeppertotaste2tablespoonsfinelychoppedparsley
1.Cutthepeeledmaniocinto4-inchcubes.Inalargepan,boilwaterwithsalt.Whenitcomestoahighboil,placethemaniocpiecesinthepan.Lowertheheattomedium-highandcookthemanioc,covered,untiltheybecomesoftbutnottothepointofdismantling.Removethemaniocfromthepan,reserving1cupofthecookingliquid.Keepthemaniocwarmandcoveredwithsomeofthecookingliquid.
2.Placethebutterinalargesautépanandsautétheonionsuntiltheyturnsoftandtransparent.Addthecookedmanioctothepanandshakeacoupleoftimestocoatthepieceswiththebutterandtheonion.Addthereservedcookingliquidandadjustforsalt,ifnecessary.Arrangethemaniocpiecesinaservingdishandcoverwiththeonionandthesauce.Sprinklewithblackpepperandchoppedparsley.
3.Serveasasidedishwithmeats,poultry,andfish.
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PirãoCozido(CookedManiocFlourPorridge)
Serves4
2tablespoonsvegetableoil1/2cupchoppedonion4garliccloves,chopped1/2cupchoppedredbellpepper1/2cupchoppedtomato1cupscrapsoffishSalttotaste2cupsoffishbroth1cupwater3/4cupmaniocflour1/4cupchoppedcilantro
1.Inamediumsaucepan,heattheoilandsautétheonionandthenthegarlic.Stir.Addbellpepper,tomato,andfish,mixingalltheingredients.Seasonwithsaltandletitcookfor3minutes.Removefromheatandplaceinfoodprocessor,addingthefishbrothlittlebylittle.Processuntilalltheingredientsarewellblended.
2.Inamediumbowl,mixtogetherthewaterandthemaniocflour.
3.Inamedium-sizesaucepan,placetheprocessedsauceoverlowheatandgentlypourthedissolvedmaniocintothepanandwhiskwell.Simmerfor5–8minutes,stirringconstantly.
4.Placethepirãoinaservingbowlandsprinklewithchoppedcilantro.
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PirãoEscaldado(ScaldedManiocPorridge)
Serves4
6cupsfishbroth4cupsmaniocflourSalttotaste1/4cupchoppedcilantro
1.Heatthefishbrothbutdonotboil.Placethebrothinashallowbowlandpourthemaniocflourslowlythroughyourfingersintothecenterofthebowl.Mixwithafork,makingcirclesuntiltheflourbecomeswetasitabsorbstheliquid,about2–3minutes.Salttotasteandsprinklewithchoppedcilantro.
2.Thisisasidedishservedwithstews.Itcanalsobepreparedonindividualplates.Inthiscase,eachpersonmakeshisorherownpirão.
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Desserts
AçaíMousse
Serves6
1/2cupplus2tablespoonscoldwater,divided2teaspoonsunflavoredgelatin4eggs,separated2tablespoonslimejuice3/4cupsugar1cupfrozenaçaípulp2tablespoonsaçaíliqueurPinchofsalt2tablespoonsconfectioners’sugar6sprigsmint,forgarnish
1.Place1/2cupwaterinabowlandsprinklethegelatinoverit.Letsitfor5minutessothegelatinexpands.Placetheeggyolksinaseparatebowlandbeatthemvigorously.Whiskin2tablespoonswaterasyoucontinuetobeat.Addthelimejuiceandkeepwhiskinguntilitfoamsandbecomeswhite.
2.Placethegelatinmixtureinamedium-sizesaucepanoverlowheat,mixingwithaspoonuntilitdissolves.Addthesugarallatonceandmixwelltocombinealltheingredients.Slowlyaddtheeggyolkmixture,whiskingwelltopreventtheeggsfromcurdling.Letsimmergentlyuntilitfoams.Turnofftheheatandkeepwhiskingfor3moreminutes.
3.Pourthemixtureintoabowlandallowtocoolfor10minutes.
4.Blendtheaçaípulpwiththeliqueur.
5.Whenthegelatinmixturehascooled,foldintheaçaímixture,gentlymixingthemtogether.Placethebowlinthefreezerfor15minutesoruntilthesidesoftheaçaicongealandthecenteroftheaçaiissoft.
6.Beattheeggwhiteswithapinchofsaltintoastiff,shinypeak.Addtheconfectioners’sugarandbeatagainfor10seconds.Taketheaçaibowloutofthe
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confectioners’sugarandbeatagainfor10seconds.Taketheaçaibowloutofthefreezer.Gentlyfold1/3ofthebeateneggwhitesintotheaçaímixture,makingcircularmotionswithaspatula.Addanother1/3oftheeggwhitesandfoldingently.Now,reversetheprocessandslowlypourtheaçaímixtureintothebowlwiththeeggwhitesandfoldinthesameway.
7.Take6wineglassesorservingbowlsanddistributethemousseequally.Refrigeratefor1hourandgarnishwithmintsprigs.
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BrazilNutCookies
Yields35
1/4poundBrazilnuts1/2cupbutter,softened1/2cupsugar,plus1cuptocoatthecookies1/2cupflour1/2cupcornmeal
1.Gratethenutsandreserve.
2.Inalargebowl,mixthebutterwith1/2cupsugar.Inanotherlargebowl,combinetheflourandnutswiththecornmeal.Addthecombineddryingredientstothefirstbowlandworkwellwithbothhandstomixtheingredientsuntilalargeballisformed.
3.Preheattheovento375degreesF.Coveracookiesheetwithparchmentpaper(donotgreasethecookiesheet).Place1cupsugaronaplate.
4.Rollatablespoonofcookiedoughintoaballthesizeofalargestrawberry.Rollthecookiesinthesugarandarrangetheminarowonthecookiesheet.
5.Bakefor10minutesoruntiltheyarelightgoldenbrown.Servethecookiesatroomtemperature.
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PudimdeTapioca(CaramelizedTapiocaFlan)
Serves8
2/3cupunsweetenedcoconutmilk1/2cupmilk1-1/4cupstapiocaflour5wholeeggs1(12-ounce)cancondensedmilk1tablespoonbutter1-2/3cupscream
Caramel
2cupssugar4tablespoonswater
1.Inasmallsaucepan,heatthecoconutmilkandmilk.Placethetapiocaflourinatrayandpourthehotmilkontopofit.Usingafork,gentlymakeacoupleoflinesinordertoallowtheliquidtogothroughthetapiocagrains(donotmixit).Letitsoakfor2hours.
2.Usinganelectricbeater,beattheeggsvigorouslyuntiltheyfoam.Addthecondensedmilkandthenthebutter.Asyoucontinuebeating,addthecreamandfinallythesoakedtapioca.
3.Forthecaramel:Placethesugarandwaterinasaucepanoverlowheatandsimmerthesugarslowly,watchingcloselysoitdoesn’tburn.Whenitbeginstoturnagoldencolor,turnofftheheat.Takeanovenproofmoldlargeenoughtohold5cupsandcoatitcompletelywiththecaramel.Setitaside.
4.Preheattheovento350degreesF.Gentlypourthetapiocabatterintothecaramelizedmold.Placealargerbakingpanintheovenandcarefullypour6cupsofboilingwaterintoit.Gentlyplacethecaramelizedmoldwithbatterinthecenterofthepanandbakefor50minutes.Checkdonenessbyplacingatoothpickinthecenteroftheflan:ifitcomesoutdry,theflanisdone.Allowtocool.
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cool.
5.Invertthemoldontoaservingplateandallowcaramelfromthemoldtoflowovertopoftheflan.
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CupuaçúIceCream
Serves8
1poundfrozencupuaçúpulp(youmayuseanyotherfrozentropicalfruitpulp)2-1/4cupscondensedmilk2tablespoonslimejuice
1.Inablender,combinethefrozenpulpandthecondensedmilk.Blendfor3to4minutes,stoppingacoupleoftimestounblockthefrozenpulpifnecessary.Addthelimejuiceandblendsomemore.
2.Pourthemixtureintoatransparentservingdishorstainlesssteeltrayandplaceinthefreezerforacoupleofhours.Servewithfruitsalad,cakes,orladyfingercookies.
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TapiocaBlinis
Serves8
3/4cuptapioca2eggyolks,lightlybeaten3eggwhites,lightlybeaten4-1/2tablespoonscoconutmilk1-1/2cupsmilk4-1/2tablespoonscachaça2tablespoonssugar2tablespoonsbutter
1.Spreadtapiocaevenlyinathinlayeronamedium-sizetray.
2.Inamediumbowl,combinetheeggyolks,eggwhites,andcoconutmilk.Mixwellandreserve.
3.Inasmallsaucepan,bringthemilk,cachaça,andsugartoaquickboil.Totempertheeggs,add1/4cupofthemilktothebowlwiththeeggsandwhisk.Gentlypourthetemperedeggsintothesaucepan,whiskingrapidly.
4.Pourtheliquidoverthetapiocaand,usingafork,makecirclesarounditsotheliquidsoaksintotally(donotmix).Coverandletsitfor2hours.
5.Cut3-inchcirclesinthetapioca.Justbeforeserving,heatamedium-sizeheavyskillet.Whentheskilletishot,placeadollopofbutterinit.Usingaspatula,place2circlesatatimeintheskillet.Searthetapiocablinisonbothsidesuntiltheyturngolden.
6.Place1blinionanindividualplateandserveimmediatelywithicecreamorsorbet.Garnishwithflowersormint.
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PineappleAluá
Serves8
1medium-sizeripepineapple8cupswaterSugar(optional)Mintleaves
1.Washthepineapplewell.Removetheskinbycutting1/4inchintothefruitsothepeelhasalayerofthefruit.Placethepineapplepeelsinsideanattractivetransparentjarandaddwater.Mixlightlyandletsitfor3hours.
2.Cutoutthecoreofthepineappleandcutthepineappleintosmallsquares.Placethepineappleinablenderandprocessuntilitbecomesliquid.
3.Usingajarandstrainer,straintheprocessedpineapplebypressinghardtogetthemaximumoutofthefruit.Addsugar,ifusingit.
4.Pourthejuiceintoicecubetraysandfreeze.
5.Toserve,pourthestrainedpinea