The Best of Israel, Jordan & Sinai - Wiley...The Best of Israel, Jordan & Sinai A journey to Israel...

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The Best of Israel, Jordan & Sinai A journey to Israel is a journey to a place where the past and present call out to trav- elers in astonishing ways. There are layers of meaning everywhere you turn in this intense land, and why not? The history and legends of this country lie at the very heart of Western civilization’s consciousness. Israel is amazingly dramatic and diverse, the more so when you realize the entire country is the size of New Jersey. When you find yourself in the silent, haunting desertscape near The Dead Sea, spotting ibexes on sheer cliffs that are dotted with caves like those in which the Dead Sea Scrolls lay hidden for more than 18 centuries, it can be hard to believe that less than 60 minutes away is the 19th-century East Euro- pean ghetto world of Jerusalem’s Orthodox Mea Shearim quarter. A few blocks away from Mea Shearim you’ll find the labyrinthine medieval Arab bazaars of the Old City, with ancient church bells and calls to prayer from the city’s minarets punctuating your wanderings. Hop into a sherut (shared taxi) to Tel Aviv on downtown Jerusalem’s Jaffa Road, and in less than an hour you’re in a world of white skyscrapers, surfboards, and bikinis on the beach, with the Mediterranean lapping at your feet. Two hours to the north, and you can be exploring ruined Crusader castles in the green forests of the Galilee mountains. As a visitor and long-term resident, I have had the opportunity to see Israel from a number of different perspectives. Thirty-five years ago, the country was an austere, no- frills society—Israelis lived with few luxuries, and the spartan life was part of the national ideology. Today, Israeli society is frenetically inventive, the country’s economy is boom- ing, the standard of living has skyrocketed, and many surveys rank Israel’s per capita income among the top 20 in the world. Israel is becoming a nation with a lively sense of style and a taste for the good life. Luxury and better-quality hotel accommodations and resorts have popped up all over the country, and visitors will find an interesting array of fine restaurants and shopping opportunities geared to Israeli society at large rather than to visitors. With the Israeli-Jordanian and Israeli-Egyptian peace treaties, a journey to Israel can also easily include an excursion to the fabulous ancient Nabatean city of Petra in Jordan, or a diving or snorkeling odyssey off the Sinai Peninsula. But amid Israel’s busy swirl of exoticism, ancient sites, shopping malls, and crowded highways, you can still find young, idealistic kibbutzim and communities in the Negev, where new immigrants and old-timers are reclaiming the land from the desert as they learn how to live on it, appreciate its wonders, and make it truly their own. This book will help direct you, as an independent traveler, to some of the best and most authentic experiences Israel has to offer. Israel is an easy country to explore and get close to if you know the ropes. I hope to lead you to experiences that will be both personal and rewarding. 1 COPYRIGHTED MATERIAL

Transcript of The Best of Israel, Jordan & Sinai - Wiley...The Best of Israel, Jordan & Sinai A journey to Israel...

Page 1: The Best of Israel, Jordan & Sinai - Wiley...The Best of Israel, Jordan & Sinai A journey to Israel is a journey to a place where the past and present call out to trav-elers in astonishing

The Best of Israel,Jordan & Sinai

A journey to Israel is a journey to a place where the past and present call out to trav-elers in astonishing ways. There are layers of meaning everywhere you turn in thisintense land, and why not? The history and legends of this country lie at the very heartof Western civilization’s consciousness.

Israel is amazingly dramatic and diverse, the more so when you realize the entirecountry is the size of New Jersey. When you find yourself in the silent, hauntingdesertscape near The Dead Sea, spotting ibexes on sheer cliffs that are dotted withcaves like those in which the Dead Sea Scrolls lay hidden for more than 18 centuries,it can be hard to believe that less than 60 minutes away is the 19th-century East Euro-pean ghetto world of Jerusalem’s Orthodox Mea Shearim quarter. A few blocks awayfrom Mea Shearim you’ll find the labyrinthine medieval Arab bazaars of the Old City,with ancient church bells and calls to prayer from the city’s minarets punctuating yourwanderings. Hop into a sherut (shared taxi) to Tel Aviv on downtown Jerusalem’s JaffaRoad, and in less than an hour you’re in a world of white skyscrapers, surfboards, andbikinis on the beach, with the Mediterranean lapping at your feet. Two hours to thenorth, and you can be exploring ruined Crusader castles in the green forests of theGalilee mountains.

As a visitor and long-term resident, I have had the opportunity to see Israel from anumber of different perspectives. Thirty-five years ago, the country was an austere, no-frills society—Israelis lived with few luxuries, and the spartan life was part of the nationalideology. Today, Israeli society is frenetically inventive, the country’s economy is boom-ing, the standard of living has skyrocketed, and many surveys rank Israel’s per capitaincome among the top 20 in the world. Israel is becoming a nation with a lively senseof style and a taste for the good life. Luxury and better-quality hotel accommodationsand resorts have popped up all over the country, and visitors will find an interesting arrayof fine restaurants and shopping opportunities geared to Israeli society at large ratherthan to visitors. With the Israeli-Jordanian and Israeli-Egyptian peace treaties, a journeyto Israel can also easily include an excursion to the fabulous ancient Nabatean city ofPetra in Jordan, or a diving or snorkeling odyssey off the Sinai Peninsula. But amidIsrael’s busy swirl of exoticism, ancient sites, shopping malls, and crowded highways, youcan still find young, idealistic kibbutzim and communities in the Negev, where newimmigrants and old-timers are reclaiming the land from the desert as they learn how tolive on it, appreciate its wonders, and make it truly their own.

This book will help direct you, as an independent traveler, to some of the best andmost authentic experiences Israel has to offer. Israel is an easy country to explore andget close to if you know the ropes. I hope to lead you to experiences that will be bothpersonal and rewarding.

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C H A P T E R 1 . T H E B E S T O F I S R A E L , J O R D A N & S I N A I6

• Visiting the Dome of the Rock andthe Temple Mount (Jerusalem):Built by the early Islamic rulers ofJerusalem in A.D. 691 on the site ofthe Temple of Solomon, the Dome of the Rock is one of the most beau-tiful structures ever created. It is thecrown upon a 4,000-year tradition ofWestern monotheistic belief. Onecan spend hours on the TempleMount soaking up the atmosphereand the dazzling views. You mightfirst visit the Temple Mount on atour, but come back and experiencethe power of this extraordinary placeon your own. See p. 173.

• Journeying into the Past at MeaShearim: Mea Shearim is the Has-sidic Jewish quarter of Jerusalem, lit-tle more than a century old, but inthe dress and customs of its inhabi-tants and in its tangle of courtyardsand alleyways, it is a miraculouslysurviving fragment of the world ofEastern European Jewry that disap-peared forever into the Holocaust. Avisitor to Mea Shearim may feel like adreamer wandering the past. Manyvisitors will revere the strict disciplineand religious devotion evident inMea Shearim; others will be troubledby its many constraints. But a walkthrough these streets will give youinsight into the powerful traditionsthat continue to make Israel unique.See p. 205.

• An Evening Stroll through OldJaffa: The beautifully restored Cas-bah of Old Jaffa is probably the mostromantic urban spot in the country,filled with galleries, shops, cafes,restaurants, and vistas of minaretsand Crusader ruins set against thesunset and the sea. See p. 276.

• Exploring the Eastern Shore of theSea of Galilee: The Sea of Galilee is

Israel’s greatest natural treasure, andits lyrical shores were the birthplace ofChristianity. It is also almost miracu-lous in its loveliness—a sapphire/turquoise freshwater lake surroundedby the mountains of the Galilee andthe Golan. The eastern shore is lessdeveloped and gives you a betterchance to feel the lake’s poetry. Thereare eucalyptus-shaded beaches whereyou can have a late afternoon swimand picnic and watch the silver-and-lavender twilight descend behind themountains on the western shore ofthe lake, which sparkles with thelights of farm settlements and kibbut-zim. See chapter 10.

• Freewheeling in the Galilee: This isthe place to rent a car for a few daysand explore Israel’s most beautifulcountryside—forested mountains,rushing streams, waterfalls, andoceans of wildflowers in late winterand early spring. Among the region’streasures are ruined Roman-era syna-gogues, Crusader castles, ancientchurches, and the walled Casbah ofAkko beside the Mediterranean.There are also the warm, sparklingwaters of the Sea of Galilee to swimin from April to early November. Seechapter 10.

• Touching the Desert: These are notjust endless sandy wastes; the desertsof Israel encompass the unworldlyand ethereal Dead Sea; the mysteri-ous, abandoned Nabatean cities ofAvdat and Shivta; the hauntingfortress of Masada; canyon oases; andvast erosion craters that are geologicalencyclopedias of past eons. Theselandscapes were the crucible in whichmonotheism was born. Don’t let thedesert be just a 45-minute ride to TheDead Sea on a tour bus from Jeru-salem. If you can, spend the night at

1 The Best Travel Experiences

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T H E B E S T T R AV E L E X P E R I E N C E S 7

Israel

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the guesthouse at the base of Masadabefore you make the ascent at dawn.Camp overnight in the dramaticRamon Crater, or visit one of theinventive, idealistic Negev/Arava Val-ley kibbutzim. See chapter 11.

• Snorkeling in the Red Sea: The RedSea, with its coral reefs, is an awe-inspiring natural aquarium. Rich withtropical marine life, it’s one of the bestplaces on earth for scuba diving andsnorkeling. At the Coral Beach NatureReserve just south of Eilat, there’senough to fascinate experts, yet won-ders are accessible to all levels of swim-mers—dazzling fish abound even inwaist-deep water. Experienced diverscan scuba dive at the Coral Island, afew miles down the coast from Eilat,or make an excursion into the Egypt-ian Sinai to the even more extraordi-nary reefs off Nuweiba, Dahab, andthe legendary Ras Mohamed at Sharmel Sheik. See chapter 11.

• Sampling the Music Scene: Israelhas an oversupply of magnificent

musicians; even suburbs of Tel Avivand small cities such as Beersheva arehome to orchestras that would be theenvy of many world capitals. Youmay find the Israel PhilharmonicOrchestra performing at Tel Aviv’sMann Auditorium, or the acclaimedRishon-Le-Zion Symphony Orches-tra giving a visiting concert at theHaifa Auditorium. But also look outfor an outdoor performance of Car-men in the Valley of the Sultan’s Pool,just at the foot of the walls ofJerusalem; a night of Mozart at the2,000-year-old Roman amphitheaterbeside the sea at Caesarea; Yemenitewedding singers or Arabic oudistsperforming at free municipal concertsinside Jerusalem’s Jaffa Gate; IsraeliAfrican-American blues and jazzmusicians at clubs in Tel Aviv; or fes-tivals such as the Chamber MusicDays at Kibbutz Kfar Blum, the RedSea Jazz Festival in Eilat, or theJacob’s Ladder Folk Festival held eachsummer in the Galilee.

C H A P T E R 1 . T H E B E S T O F I S R A E L , J O R D A N & S I N A I8

People come to Israel to touch the past.The events that occurred here in ancienttimes and the stories and legends thatarose in Israel are firmly planted in theminds of more than a billion peoplethroughout the world.

• City of David: Now the Arab villageof Silwan (in the Bible, Siloam), thisis the oldest part of Jerusalem, locatedon a ridge that slopes downhill justsouth of the present Old City. David,Solomon, and the prophets walkedhere. By late Roman times, warfarehad advanced to the point where thisarea was too low to be easily defendedand it was left outside the walls ofJerusalem. The ancient gardens ofSiloam inspired the Song of Songs.Now an overgrown orchard of fig and

pomegranate trees, watered by thesame Gihon Spring that was used bythe prophets to anoint the kings ofJudah, the gardens still stand at thefoot of modern-day Silwan. The Cityof David is best visited on an organ-ized tour or with a guide. See p. 213.

• Northwest Shore of the Sea ofGalilee: This enchantingly lovelycorner of the lake, in many ways thebirthplace of one of the world’s greatreligions, was the landscape of Jesus’ministry. Centering on the ruins ofCapernaum (once a fishing town,and the site of St. Peter’s house), andTabgha, where the multitudes werefed with the Miracle of the Loavesand the Fishes, the shoreline is domi-nated by the Mount of Beatitudes.

2 The Most Evocative Ancient Sites

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Churches and archaeological excava-tions mark the locations of New Tes-tament events. See chapter 11.

• Bar’am Synagogue: In the northernGalilee, near the Lebanese border,this is the best-preserved and perhapsmost beautiful of the many ruinedsynagogues of antiquity. Built in the4th century A.D., it was once the cen-terpiece of a small town in the breath-taking wooded mountains of thisnorthern region. See p. 407.

• Masada: Located on an almost inac-cessible mesa/plateau high above the

shores of The Dead Sea, Herod builtthis legendary palace fortress in about10 B.C. In A.D. 73, more than 75years after Herod’s death, it becamethe final stronghold of the FirstRevolt against Rome. Here the lastJews to live under their own rule(until the creation of the State ofIsrael in 1948) committed suicide onthe eve of their conquest by Romanarmies. Even without the drama ofMasada’s last stand, the site is one ofhaunting, audacious magnificence.See p. 444.

T H E M O S T I M P O R TA N T H O LY P L A C E S 9

The great sacred sites all possess extraor-dinary power, mystery, and beauty, atleast partly conveyed upon them by cen-turies, if not millennia, of reverence. Theownership and histories of Israel’s holyplaces are often a matter of contentionand debate, not only among the threegreat monotheistic religions, but alsoamong sects within these religions. Theselistings are in the order in which theyappear in this book.

• The Western Wall (Jerusalem): Part ofa vast retaining wall built by Herodaround the Temple Mount, this is themost visible structure remaining fromthe Second Temple complex. Judaism’sgreat legacy to the world is spiritual,but the massive stones of the Wall,each with its perfectly carved border,are testimony to the physical grandeurof the ancient Jewish world. Over thecenturies, this enduring fragment ofThe Temple complex has come tosymbolize the indestructible attach-ment of the Jewish people to the landof Israel. For more than 1,000 years,under Islamic governments, the Wallwas the closest point that Jews werepermitted to approach to the placewhere the ancient Temple of Jerusalemonce stood. Because of the sanctity of

the Temple Mount itself, very obser-vant Jews do not go farther than theWall to this day. See p. 172.

• Dome of the Rock (Jerusalem): A glo-riously beautiful Islamic shrine, builtin A.D. 691, covers the rock believed tohave been the altar or foundation stoneof the First and Second Temples.According to Jewish tradition, the rockwas the altar upon which Abrahamprepared to sacrifice Isaac; Islamic tra-dition holds that it was Abraham’s firstson, Ishmael, the father of the Arabicpeople, whom Abraham was calledupon to sacrifice, either at this rock orat Mecca. The rock is also believed tohave been the point from which theProphet Mohammed ascended toglimpse heaven during the miraculousnight journey described in the 17thSura of the Koran. See p. 173.

• Al Aqsa Mosque (Jerusalem): On thesouthernmost side of the TempleMount, built in A.D. 720, this is thethird-most-important Muslim placeof prayer after Mecca and Medina.See p. 174.

• Church of the Holy Sepulcher(Jerusalem): Christianity’s holiest place,this church covers the traditional sitesof the crucifixion, entombment, and

3 The Most Important Holy Places

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resurrection of Jesus. Built about A.D.330, the complex is carefully dividedamong the Greek Orthodox, RomanCatholic, Armenian Orthodox, Cop-tic, Syrian, and Ethiopian churches.See p. 181.

• Mount of Olives (Jerusalem): Over-looking the Old City of Jerusalemfrom the east, the mount offers asweeping vista of the entire city. Here,Jesus wept at a prophetic vision ofJerusalem lying in ruins; in the Gar-den of Gethsemane, on the lowerslope of the mount, Jesus was arrested;and the ridge of the Mount of Olivesis the place from which, according totradition, Jesus ascended to heaven.An encampment site for Jewish pil-grims in ancient times, the Mount ofOlives contains Judaism’s mostimportant graveyard. See p. 209.

• Baha’i Gardens (Akko): At thenorthern edge of Akko, this sitemarks the tomb of the founder and

prophet of the Baha’i faith, Baha’Allah. As such, it is the holiest placefor members of the Baha’i faith. Seep. 319.

• Baha’i Shrine & Gardens (Haifa):The shrine was built to memorializethe remains of one of the Baha’i faith’smartyrs, Bab Mirza Ali Muhammad,who was executed by Persian authori-ties in 1850. See p. 345.

• Mount Sinai (Sinai Peninsula,Egypt): Controversy still rages overwhich of the Sinai’s mountains is thetrue site where the Ten Command-ments were given to Moses, but thetraditional identification of MountSinai is very ancient. An isolatedByzantine monastery at the foot ofthe mountain adds to the mysteriousaura. The view from the top ofMount Sinai at dawn is among themost awe-inspiring sights you willever see. See p. 481.

C H A P T E R 1 . T H E B E S T O F I S R A E L , J O R D A N & S I N A I10

Important but (Currently) Off-Limits Sites

Two very important religious sites in Israel are set in the chaotic West Bank.At press time this is an area for which the U.S. State Department has issuedthe highest warning against visiting (and we subsequently do not reviewanything in this area inside this book). Check the State Department websitebefore you head out, and do not attempt to visit the following spots unlessthe warning has been lifted.

The Tomb of the Patriarchs in Hebron, on the West Bank, is the burialplace of Abraham, Isaac, and Jacob, as well as their wives, Sarah, Rebecca,and Leah (Rachel, the second wife of Jacob, is buried in Bethlehem). It’s sur-rounded by massive walls built by King Herod, and venerated by both Jewsand Muslims. Rights to this place are a point of bitter contention betweenthe Islamic and Jewish worlds.

The Church of the Nativity in Bethlehem marks the site of Jesus’ birth-place. It is the oldest surviving church in the Holy Land; the Persians sparedit during their invasion in A.D. 614 because, according to legend, they wereimpressed by a representation of the Magi (fellow Persians) that decoratedthe building.

Tips

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T H E B E S T L O S T A N C I E N T C I T I E S 11

Israel and neighboring Jordan are filledwith ruins of lost, ancient cities fromevery part of their long histories. In Hero-dian-Roman times, the population ofJudea and the Galilee may have beenaround three million. Almost 2 millenniaof wars, religious rivalries, persecutions,and misgovernment drove the populationdown to less than half a million by thestart of the 19th century. Even knowledgeof the location of many ancient sites wasforgotten. Now, dazzling physical monu-ments to the past are being recovered at arapid pace.

• Caesarea (on the coast between TelAviv and Haifa): Built by Herod asthe great harbor and seaport of hiskingdom, this was the splendidadministrative capital of RomanPalestine. There are vast impressiveruins of the Roman city (includingtwo theaters), as well as of the Cru-sader-era city, made all the moreromantic by the waves lapping at theancient stones. Caesarea was animportant Byzantine Christian city,but it is not a biblical site. See p. 302.

• Zippori (Sepphoris, near Nazareth):Though not an overly dramatic site,this cosmopolitan Jewish-Hellenisticcity, close to Nazareth, was the capitalof the Galilee in Roman and Talmu-dic times. Especially interestingbecause it may have been familiar toJesus, Zippori’s highlights include acolonnaded street; a mosaic syna-gogue floor depicting the zodiac; andthe beautiful mosaic portrait of awoman dubbed “the Mona Lisa ofthe Galilee,” recently discovered in alate Roman-era villa. See p. 362.

• Megiddo (Armageddon, about 32km/20 miles southeast of Haifa): Thistown stood in the path of invadingarmies from ancient to moderntimes. It is an encyclopedia of Near

Eastern archaeology, with more than20 levels of habitation from 5000B.C. to A.D. 400 having been discov-ered here. Among the newest discov-eries here are the detailed mosaicfloor of a Byzantine-era church—per-haps the earliest building specificallydesigned as a church ever discovered.The famous ancient water tunnel ofMegiddo, dug from inside the forti-fied town to the source of water out-side the walls in the 9th century B.C.,is a miracle of ancient engineering.See p. 367.

• Korazim (Galilee): A Roman-Byzan-tine–era Jewish town in the hills justnortheast of the Sea of Galilee, this isa beautiful place, with sweepingviews of the water. Portions of ruinsstill stand. A black basalt synagogue,with beautifully carved detailing, andsome surrounding houses, also oflocal black basalt, give a good idea ofwhat the more than 100 towns oncelocated in this area must have beenlike. See p. 388.

• Gamla (Golan Heights): Littleremains of this small Roman-era Jew-ish city located on a dramatic ridge inthe Golan Heights. This site has astory chillingly similar to that ofMasada—but the number of deadwas far greater. In A.D. 67, at thebeginning of the First Jewish Rebel-lion against Rome, Gamla was over-run by Roman soldiers, and as manyas 9,000 townspeople flung them-selves from the cliff, choosing deathover subjugation. This dramatic siteis especially beautiful amid late-win-ter wildflowers and waterfalls. Aruined synagogue, one of the few thatcan be dated from the Second Templeperiod, survives and is a good placefor contemplation. See p. 419.

4 The Best Lost Ancient Cities

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• Bet Shean (Jordan Valley): This placehas been continuously inhabited forthe past 6,000 years. A vast, Roman-Byzantine city with colonnadedstreets and a theater that could house5,000 people once stood here,although by the 19th century, BetShean was a small village. Remnantsof earlier civilizations can be seen onthe ancient tel (Hebrew for a moundcomposed of layers of cities) abovethe Roman ruins. See p. 421.

• Petra (Jordan): One of the great won-ders of the world, yet forgotten foralmost a thousand years, this leg-endary 2,000-year-old Nabatean city

carved from the walls of a hiddendesert canyon is now the highlight ofexcursion tours into Jordan fromIsrael. The entire Petra experience,including the trek into the canyon,has an air of adventure and mystery—especially if you plan 1 or 2 nights (ormore) at Petra and give yourself timeto get a feel for the place early in themorning and in the evening, beforethe hordes of visitors arrive. Petra andother treasures in Jordan are easilyaccessible from Israel by tour or inde-pendent travel arrangements. Seechapter 12.

C H A P T E R 1 . T H E B E S T O F I S R A E L , J O R D A N & S I N A I12

Israel’s diverse landscapes and unusualnatural phenomena provide opportuni-ties for interesting outdoor pursuits,many of which you might never havethought of in connection with a trip here.

• Digging for a Day: Joining anarchaeological dig as a volunteerrequires a definite commitment oftime, money, and backbreaking labor.However, you can often arrange todig for a day and get a close-up lookat the hard work and thrills involvedin bringing so much of Israel’s historyto light. Contact the MunicipalTourist Information Office in Jeru-salem for current options. The dig-ging season is during the dry summermonths. See p. 85.

• Hiking to Gamla: A beautiful trailthroughout the year, in late winterthis 1- to 2-hour hike in the Golantakes you past wildflowers, streams,and waterfalls. The reward at the endof the trail is the dramatic ruined cityof Gamla (see “The Best Lost AncientCities,” above). The countryside isalso dotted with prehistoric dolmensand Stone Age tombs. This walkbrings you into contact with nature,archaeology, and a very moving piece

of Israeli history. Plan additional timefor the return walk, although a shortertrail is also available. See p. 419.

• Camel Trekking in the RamonCrater (Negev): In the Negev High-lands, near Mitzpe Ramon, this geo-logical encyclopedia can be visited ona speedy, bone-dismantling jeep touror on a rather arduous hike. Or youcan experience the mysterious quietof the desert as you explore the crateraccompanied by a guide, with acamel to carry your water and equip-ment. This traditional approach totrekking can be arranged for a varietyof itineraries as well as for overnightcamping and Bedouin-style cook-outs. Travel agencies in MitzpeRamon can set it up for you at rea-sonable prices. See p. 451.

• Diving and Snorkeling the Reefs ofEilat: The Red Sea coral reefs areamong the most interesting and easilyaccessible in the world; anyone whocan swim even moderately well cansnorkel and enjoy the underwaterscene. Eilat is home to a number ofdiving schools offering short- andlong-term programs, plus classes inunderwater photography. Once you’ve

5 The Best Nature & Outdoor Experiences

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seen the coral reef just off the shores ofsouthern Eilat, you can graduate to adive cruise of the more extensive reefsof the Coral Island. See p. 462.

• Diving at Dahab (Sinai Peninsula):Just across the border from Eilat arethe Sinai Peninsula’s extraordinaryreefs and clear, light-filled waters.Reefs teeming with exotic marine lifeextend all the way down the coast; per-haps the most famous is the suicidal

Blue Hole, off the town of Dahab (butnot recommended by this book). Atthe southernmost tip of Sinai, justbeyond the resort center at Sharm elSheik, is the reefy paradise of theEgyptian National Park at RasMohamed. Diving schools in Eilatand good Eilat travel agents and dis-counters can arrange diving-packageexcursions to Sinai. See p. 483.

T H E B E S T B E A C H E S 13

Israel’s four seas (the Mediterranean, theSea of Galilee, The Dead Sea, and theRed Sea) offer an amazing variety ofswimming experiences. The beaches ofIsrael look beautiful, but be careful aboutgoing in the water. Unusually strong rip-tides, whirlpools, and undertows alongthe Mediterranean coast can claim thestrongest swimmer. Never swim inunguarded areas. Along much of thecoast, especially north of Tel Aviv, thebeaches seem sandy, but a few steps intothe surf, and you’re standing on a rockyshelf—not a good place to be when wavescome crashing down. Pollution is also aserious problem, as it is throughout theMediterranean. Israel’s beach standardsare much higher than those of mostMediterranean countries, but on manydays, garbage from other countries swirlsalong the coast. At Nahariya, Akko, andthe Poleg Nature Reserve (8km/5 milessouth of Netanya), which have nosewage-treatment plants, I would hesitateto put a toe, no less my head, in thewater. Expect beaches to be lively; Israelisplay compulsive paddleball on any stretchof beach they’re on, regardless of sleepingsunbathers in the line of fire. And watchout for sea urchins and stinging coral inthe Red Sea and the burning medusas(jellyfish) that attack the Mediterraneanbeaches in July.

• Gordon Beach (Tel Aviv): Perhapsthe most accessible place to sample

the Mediterranean, this free munici-pal beach has showers and a friendlymix of Israelis, new Russian immi-grants, and tourists from luxuryhotels. There are nearby places totake a break for a snack or meal, thesand is passably clean, and when thetide is clear, the beach is a pleasure.See p. 278 for more on the city’sbeaches.

• Aqueduct Beach (just north of Cae-sarea): An ancient Roman aqueductgives this beach its name and travel-poster ambience. There are no show-ers or amenities except on summerweekends, when vendors sell drinksand snacks. Not good for swimmingif the water is rough, but on calmdays, as you float in the Mediter-ranean and gaze at the romanticruins, you know it’s not Blackpool orthe Jersey Shore. See p. 305.

• Ein Gev Resort Village Beach (Seaof Galilee): The freshwater Sea ofGalilee is warm and cleansing, spiri-tually as well as physically. You haveto be a guest at the Ein Gev ResortVillage to be allowed to use the beachhere, but it’s the prettiest one on thelake, with a date palm grove andthick lawns stretching down to thewater, which is relatively free of foot-stubbing rocks. Just to the south ofEin Gev are several miles of eucalyp-tus-shaded beaches along the road (in

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summer there’s a parking fee); they’rerockier underwater, but very pleasantwhen not crowded with weekenders.Late afternoon often brings realbreakers to the eastern shore of thelake; twilight here is soft and magical.See p. 391.

• Ein Gedi Beach (Dead Sea): Every-one should experience swimming inThe Dead Sea, the amazing body ofwater at the lowest point on the faceof the earth. Extremely high salt con-tent makes you feel like a cork. andit’s impossible to keep much of your-self underwater. The mineral-rich seais believed to be therapeutic, but willsting any cuts on your skin, and ifyou stay in too long, you’ll be pick-led. Ein Gedi Beach offers freshwatershowers as well as a cafe. Even in win-ter a desert dip may be possible. Seep. 442.

• Coral Beach Nature Reserve (Eilat):The nature reserve has staked out astrip of beach alongside Eilat’s bestreefs. Here you can snorkel amongdazzling fish and coral formations,

and even take interesting scuba expe-ditions. Snorkeling gear is for rent,and there are showers and changingareas. Not good for ordinary swim-ming—you must beware of burningcoral and spiny sea urchins. See p. 460.

• Dolphin Reef Beach (Eilat): A goodchoice for everyday swimming in theRed Sea, Dolphin Reef is the mostpicturesque beach in Eilat, withthatched palapas and a resident dol-phin population, free to come andgo, leaping and frolicking not farfrom where people can swim. See p. 460.

• Hilton Dahab Resort Beach (SinaiPeninsula, Egypt): If you want toreally beach out for a few days at acomfortable resort with a quiet, dis-tant, end-of-the-earth ambience andviews of the Arabia mountains facingyou across the Red Sea, this is theplace. The waters here offer goodopportunities for swimming andsnorkeling. See p. 483.

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Israel’s museums are relatively new, inno-vative, and interactive. They display thediscoveries of the past, of the self, and ofnationhood that are happening so inten-sively every day in Israeli society. Themost interesting museums are those thatcould only be found in Israel.

• Israel Museum (Jerusalem): Althoughit only opened in 1965, in 4 decadesthe Israel Museum has made its placeon the world museum map. Its great-est treasures are beautifully exhibitedand include a number of the DeadSea Scrolls; a dazzling, all-encompass-ing collection of archaeological findsfrom Israel; a vast treasury of worldJudaica and costumes; and excellentcollections of primitive, pre-Colum-bian, European, and modern art.

There’s also an enticing Children’sWing. Much of the museum will beclosed for renovation through 2009.See p. 196.

• L. A. Mayer Memorial Museum ofIslamic Art (Jerusalem): An under-visited treasure with an excellent col-lection of Islamic and Middle Easternart, clocks, and well-chosen specialand visiting exhibitions. See p. 198.

• Sir Isaac and Lady Edith WolfsonMuseum (Jerusalem): Right in theheart of Jerusalem, this little-knowngem consists of a large but intimateprivate collection of Judaica from allover the world. It is exhibited on thefourth floor of Heichal Shlomo, theGreat Synagogue complex on KingGeorge Street. See p. 198.

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• Yad VaShem Memorial and Holo-caust Museum (Jerusalem): Thislarge complex is a memorial to the sixmillion Jews killed by the Nazis dur-ing World War II. A major focus ofthe complex is the new (2005)museum. Here, in ways that put ahuman face on the staggering num-bers of victims, the history of theHolocaust is traced using actual filmfootage, videos of personal interviewswith survivors, historical documents,artifacts, and personal items—somedonated by survivors and accompa-nied by stories of unimaginable heart-break. Other parts of the complexinclude an archive that gathers andstores information about individualvictims, memorial structures, gardens,and commemorative installations. Novisitor can leave here unaffected. Seep. 199.

• Bet Hatfutzot/Diaspora Museum(Tel Aviv): Not a museum in terms ofdisplaying actual genuine artifacts, BetHatfutzot is rather a vast ensemble ofmultimedia exhibits that illustrate thehistories of Jewish communities

throughout the world. It’s fascinatingand fun, and the special visiting exhi-bitions are always worthwhile. See p. 269.

• Eretz Israel Museum (Tel Aviv):This museum covers many aspects ofthe land of Israel, including its natu-ral history, flora and fauna, archaeol-ogy, folklore, and traditional crafts.Highlights include a bazaar filledwith craftspeople demonstratingskills from antiquity such as glassblowing, olive pressing, weaving, andpottery making; an extraordinary col-lection of ancient glass; and excava-tions of a tel (ancient mound) locatedright on the grounds of the museum.See p. 272.

• Tel Aviv Museum of Art (Tel Aviv):Notable for strong collections ofIsraeli and contemporary European(including Russian) art, as well as itsJaglom Collection of Impressionistand post-Impressionist art. There is alively program of public events, per-formances, and special exhibitions.See p. 273.

T H E B E S T L U X U RY H O T E L S 15

The hotel scene in Israel is presently inthe process of a change. After 6 years of atourism slump, when almost no hotelswere renovated or rooms redone, touristsare returning, and with them, carpenters,plumbers, and decorators to brightenestablishments that had become wornand shabby. During the time span of thisedition, many hotels we’ve described asneeding to redecorate will probably do so.International chains have been better atkeeping up standards and have alreadybegun ambitious renovation programs.Although new hotel construction hasbeen at a standstill in Israel since 2000,these plans are ready to go forward if thequiet security situation continues to hold.Inside Israel, hotel rates are beginning to

rise in response to higher demand. In Jor-dan and Sinai, you’ll find wonderful newhotels with rooms still going at bargainrates.

• David Citadel Hotel (Jerusalem; & 02/621-1111). Rival to the KingDavid (see below), this newest luxuryhotel in Jerusalem is architecturallyinteresting, lively, and offers excellentfood services, including a great sushibar. Most of the light, modern roomsoffer Old City views. See p. 126.

• King David Hotel (Jerusalem; & 02/620-8888): Built in 1930 during theBritish Mandate, the King David has outlasted the British Empire and continues to sail on; it’s elegant and

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up-to-date in every way. The Nubian,fez-adorned lobby attendants of the1930s are no longer here, but theKing David is thick with atmosphereand ambience, and VIPs from HenryKissinger to Barbra Streisand seem topop up here. The gardened swimmingpool and views of the walls of the OldCity are a real plus. See p. 126.

• American Colony Hotel (Jerusalem;& 02/627-9777): This beautiful,atmospheric, gardened enclave was a19th-century pasha’s villa. As aninternational meeting place betweenthe worlds of East and West Jeru-salem, it attracts journalists, writers,archaeologists, and all sorts of VIPs.It’s probably the most savvy, romanticspot in the Middle East. Some of thesuites, furnished with antiques andtraditional crafts, are as splendid asanything you’ll find in the region, yetprices are comparatively reasonable.The hotel’s Saturday-afternoonluncheon buffet is famous through-out the country. See p. 133.

• Mount Zion Hotel (Jerusalem; & 02/568-9555): This lesser-known four-star standout features lovely gardens,interesting architecture, a large swim-ming pool, and the most dramaticvistas of the Old City, Himmom Val-ley, and the Mount of Olives of anyJerusalem hotel. See p. 131.

• Tel Aviv Sheraton Hotel & Towers(Tel Aviv; & 03/521-1111): Themost fun of Tel Aviv’s luxury hotels—right on the beach, but steps awayfrom the city’s restaurant and gallerydistrict—feels like an urban resort.The restaurants here are probably thebest of any hotel in the country,topped off by the inventive (andkosher) Olive Leaf (p. 251). Mediter-ranean views from many of the guestrooms, complete with dazzling sun-sets, are a plus, as is the very efficientbusiness center. See p. 244.

• Tel Aviv Hilton (Tel Aviv; & 03/520-2240): With an unequaled staff,business center, and CYBEX healthclub, the Hilton is the doyen of TelAviv’s beachfront hotels. Suites andbetter-category rooms are beautifullyfurnished and decorated; the shel-tered beach offers a resort atmos-phere; and the kosher sushi bar hintsat the Hilton’s role as a center forbusiness and tourism exchangesbetween Asia and the Middle East.See p. 248.

• Dan Carmel Hotel (Haifa; & 04/830-3010): With sweeping viewsfrom its site at the top of the CarmelRange, as well as a careful staff and arelaxing, gardened pool enclave, thishotel, built in the 1960s and a bitdated for some, reigns as Haifa’s best.The better guest rooms, with views ofthe bay, are nicely decorated andworth the extra money. Lower-cate-gory rooms still have a style thatrecalls the Eisenhower era. See p. 334.

• The Scots Hotel (Tiberias; & 04/671-0710): With its 19th-centurybuildings, beautiful terraces, and gar-dens looking out on the Sea ofGalilee, this well-run, four-star hotelseems almost like a villa on the Italiancoast. Run under the auspices of theChurch of Scotland, it welcomes vis-itors of all faiths. All rooms weretotally rebuilt in 2004, but the“antique rooms” in an older buildinghave special character. See p. 377.

• Herods Palace Hotel Complex(North Beach, Eilat; & 08/638-0000): Opened in 1999, this block-buster’s public areas are the mostsumptuous in Israel. With architec-tural touches echoing Middle Easterntraditions and staff at times costumedin “ancient” garb, the effect may seema bit Hollywood-esque, but the gor-geous spa, the vast pool, and the

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excellent service are not fantasies. TheRed Sea is steps away. See p. 468.

• Four Seasons Sharm el Sheik (Sharmel Sheik, Sinai, Egypt; & 69/360-3555): This establishment is themost atmospheric and luxurious ofSinai’s many new superluxury resorts.It’s designed in a low-rise, gardenstyle that suggests a whitewashedEgyptian/North African village. TheFour Seasons offers rooms, suites,and private villas overlooking the RedSea; a good snorkeling reef; diving,swimming, and snorkeling facilities;and every amenity you could want.See p. 484.

• Mövenpick Resort Petra (Petra, Jor-dan; & 962-03/215-7111): Right atthe entrance to Petra National Park(which makes more than one forayinto Petra each day possible), the

Mövenpick is the best blend of contemporary and traditional MiddleEastern design in the region. Withoutbeing kitschy, public areas are atmos-pheric and exciting. The rooftop cafeat night is an easy place for travelersto meet and swap experiences underthe stars. See p. 498.

• Taybet Zaman Hotel and Resort(Petra, Jordan; & 962-03/215-0111):The stone houses and lanes of anabandoned Bedouin village in themountains above Petra (a 20-min.drive away) have been turned into therooms and passageways of a charm-ing, atmospheric, quality resort. Vis-tas are awesome, and each room isuniquely decorated with Bedouincrafts. The village market is a shop-ping arcade, and local country musi-cians serenade at night. See p. 498.

T H E B E S T VA L U E H O T E L S 17

This selection of hotel choices runs fromsplurges to economy strategies; eachestablishment offers something special.

• Saint Mark’s Lutheran Guest House(Jerusalem; & 02/626-8888): Beau-tiful, atmospheric, and immaculate,with gardens above the main Arabbazaar, this is the best possible placeto stay in the Old City and one of themost remarkable little hotels in thecountry. See p. 121.

• Jerusalem Inn Hotel (Jerusalem; & 02/625-2757): Just a short walkfrom the Old City, and 11⁄2 blocksfrom Zion Square and the bustlingBen-Yehuda and Yoel Salomon malls,this small hotel offers tidy, no-frillsdoubles with a touch of style andexcellent beds (blankets covered byduvet sheets). The management con-stantly upgrades rooms with newequipment, yet rates are kept reason-able for this level of quality. See p. 124.

• YMCA Three Arches Hotel (Jeru-salem; & 02/569-2692): This is inno way your average YMCA; instead,it’s a respected hotel frequented bysavvy travelers. You get a well-appointed double in a landmarkbuilding (designed by the same archi-tect who created New York’s EmpireState Building), right across the streetfrom the famed King David Hotel.Rooms are scheduled for updating.See p. 129.

• Saint Andrew’s Church of ScotlandGuest House (Jerusalem; & 02/673-2401): With its own gardens and vis-tas of the Old City, this Church ofScotland hospice is one of the mostdramatic vantage points in WestJerusalem. Rooms are simple butcomfy, and open to guests of allfaiths. Public areas are freshly reno-vated. See p. 132.

• Jerusalem Hotel (East Jerusalem; & 02/628-3282): A small place run

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by a well-informed, attentive family,the Jerusalem Hotel offers a pleasantgarden restaurant with live music anumber of times a week and a generalatmosphere that makes it seem like avery affordable version of therenowned American Colony Hotel.See p. 137.

• Hotel Cinema (Tel Aviv; & 03/520-7100): This new, amusingly inven-tive hotel, right on Dizengoff Square,is a monument to the Bauhaus andart moderne movements that are somuch a part of Tel Aviv’s heritage.Though it’s great fun and centrallylocated, the Hotel Cinema is a fewblocks from the beach, where most ofthe city’s hotels are clustered. See p. 249.

• Hotel de la Mer (Tel Aviv; & 03/510-0011): In a city with an oversup-ply of faceless medium-range hotels,this new little gem, just across the roadfrom the beach, is a real find. Thefresh, pleasant rooms are designedaccording to the principles of fengshui. See p. 247.

• Ein Gev Resort Village (Sea ofGalilee; & 04/665-9800): The EinGev kibbutz has bungalows, caravans,and basic doubles set amid eucalyptusand date palm groves right on theshores of the Sea of Galilee. It’s a par-adisiacal place to unwind and swimthe warm waters of the lake. The kib-butz runs an excellent fish restauranta mile down the road. Book this on a kibbutz package, and the pricebecomes very reasonable. See p. 391.

• Vered HaGalil Guest Farm (Galilee;& 04/693-5785): Set in the hills afew miles north of the Sea of Galilee,this intimate, family-run place beganas a simple horseback riding lodgeand over 4 decades has slowly beenturned into a small Garden of Eden.It offers a variety of rustic, charmingaccommodations and well-informed,

personal attention; you don’t have tocome here for riding, but if you do,the programs are probably the best inthe country. See p. 393.

• Ruth Rimon Inn (Safed; & 04/699-4666): In a country with few reallyromantic, atmospheric hotels, thisinn, a collection of beautiful build-ings from Ottoman times, is a winnerand an example of what might bedone elsewhere in the country. A stayhere helps make the often-elusivemagic of Safed more tangible. See p. 402.

• Masada Guest House and YouthHostel (Masada; & 08/995-3222):Right at the base of Masada, over-looking The Dead Sea, this new,beautifully designed Israel YouthHostel Association establishment isvirtually a hotel. The hostel gives youthe option of overnighting in thedesert and making the ascent toMasada in the cool dawn hours. Seep. 448.

• Kibbutz Ein Gedi Resort Hotel(Kibbutz Ein Gedi, Dead Sea; & 08/659-4222): A wonderful alternativeto the big spa hotels along The DeadSea, Ein Gedi Kibbutz is a beautiful,internationally recognized botanicalgarden of rare plants and trees thathave been planted in a once-bleakpiece of desert over the past 45 years.There are indoor and outdoor swim-ming pools; spectacular desert vistas;archaeological sites; and free use ofthe kibbutz’s Dead Sea Spa and DeadSea beach. Look for discounts on kib-butz packages. See p. 443.

• Isrotel Ramon Inn (Mitzpe Ramon;& 08/658-8822): This efficient,comfortable hotel close to the won-ders of the Ramon Crater opens upthe interior of the Negev to travelerswho do not want to stay in rudimen-tary accommodations. The staff willconnect you to all kinds of hiking,

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biking, and nature activities, and theindoor swimming pool and outstand-ing home-style buffet are nice tocome home to after a day exploringthe desert. See p. 452.

• Three Arava Valley Kibbutzim:Lotan, Yahel, and Ketura (AravaValley): Half an hour north of Eilat,these kibbutzim, founded largely byNorth Americans, are known fororganic farming and inventive recy-cling projects. They offer wonderfulprograms in desert touring and ecol-ogy, a blanket of stars at night, simpleaccommodations, and delicious meals.Each is a paradise in it own way and a

chance for travelers to experience thevision and idealism at the heart ofIsrael’s rebirth. See p. 455.

• Isrotel Riviera Club (Eilat; & 08/630-3666): A block from the beach,this informal hotel has units that canaccommodate two to four people andare equipped with kitchenettes, TVs,and other useful amenities. Althoughnot a kibbutz guesthouse, a room herecan be booked as part of the KibbutzGuest House Package (p. 90), makingthis the most affordable way to havenonscruffy accommodations in costlyEilat. See p. 470.

T H E B E S T L U X U RY D I N I N G 19

Until the 1980s, it was almost consideredanti-Zionist to spend money and efforton gourmet cuisine. Israel was a practical,egalitarian society, and good, healthfulfresh food was all that was necessary tocreate a sturdy population. But peoplecannot live by falafel alone, and Israel hasdeveloped a group of truly fine, personalrestaurants, many rooted in French tradi-tion, but also exploring the cuisine tradi-tions of Mediterranean cuisine.

• Darna (Jerusalem): Craftsmen andinterior designers from Morocco werebrought to Jerusalem to create thisauthentic, atmospheric glatt kosherrestaurant that celebrates the tradi-tions of Israel’s large Moroccan Jew-ish population. The fine Moroccancuisine matches the graceful serviceand ambience. Totally wonderful. Seep. 142.

• Canela (Jerusalem): A chic, carefullydesigned, contemporary setting; apianist at a white grand piano (Monnights); and pampering service thatincludes valet parking are touchesthat help make this the best of thecity’s new crop of top-drawer kosherrestaurants. The menu is Continental

and strong on meat; prices are notnearly as exorbitant as at the compe-tition. See p. 151.

• Arcadia (Jerusalem): Jerusalem’smost sublime French and Mediter-ranean restaurant offers a charming,unique setting and an ever-changingmenu that’s elegant and inventivewithout being pretentious or glitzy.See p. 154.

• American Colony Hotel ArabesqueRestaurant (Jerusalem): The Satur-day luncheon buffet in the ArabesqueRestaurant is a Jerusalem tradition,with a romanticized atmosphere aswell as a vast, all-you-can-eat buffetof excellent Middle Eastern and Con-tinental choices. Sadly, this treat isonly for lunch and only a once-a-week affair. See p. 133.

• The Olive Leaf (Tel Aviv): With aninventive menu of nouvelle cuisinethat’s actually hearty, filling, and pre-pared within the rules of kashrut,plus a view of the Mediterranean, thisis the best hotel restaurant in Tel Aviv(in the Sheraton Hotel and Towers),and one of the three best kosherchoices in Israel. The decor, like the

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menu, is elegant without beingphony or glitzy. Great luncheondeals. See p. 251.

• Carmela Be Nachala (Tel Aviv): Setin an antique, veranda-laden buildingthat might have been transportedfrom the 19th-century AmericanSouth, this is a top choice for charm,ambience, and an ever-changing,inventive menu in the French/Mediterranean tradition. Half-por-tions are encouraged so you can sam-ple more of the menu. See p. 255.

• Orca (Tel Aviv): Chef Eran Stroit-man serves a constantly changingmenu that’s the toast of Tel Aviv,amid a marvelous 1930s art modernesetting. The downstairs bar is amongthe most chic in town (with amazingtapas); the restaurant’s food is filling,delicious, and fascinating. See p. 256.

• Catit (Tel Aviv): Fabulous Chef MeirAdoni has created a menu filled withsome of the richest, most lavishdishes in Tel Aviv to critical acclaimand awards. The setting is quiet and charming but not dramatic. See p. 259.

• Cordelia (Jaffa): Located in an eclec-tic and candlelit romantic Jaffa build-ing, Cordelia is an example of food astheater and like nothing else in Israel.Chef Nir Zook’s ever-changing menuis designed to surprise, amaze, shock,and usually please. See p. 266.

• Mul Yam (Tel Aviv): The seafoodhere is the freshest and most exotic inIsrael, jetted in from all over theworld, expertly prepared, and servedin a comfortable, informal setting.Israelis love it. See p. 264.

• Margaret Tayar’s (Jaffa): This placehas an unpretentious terrace by thesea, and an internationally acclaimedchef who’s a Tel Aviv legend and haswon international acclaim. The pricesare upper moderate, but Margaretcan cook up a leisurely tasting feast

for you. See also “Best ModerateDining,” below (p. 267).

• Yoe’ezer Wine Bar (Jaffa): Set insidethe cavernous arches of a Crusader-erabuilding, this is a gourmand’s paradisecreated by noted Israeli journalist andfood writer Shaul Evron. Here, atyour leisure, you can sample from anElysian collection of European andIsraeli wines, accompanied by won-derful breads and cheeses, or feast ona select menu of classic, richly pre-pared Continental cuisine. See p. 267.

• Helena (Caesarea): With vistas of thesea and a great young chef designingits menu, this restaurant, set amid theruins of Caesarea, is the most roman-tic spot in Israel for a gourmet meal,especially when the sun sets over theMediterranean. See p. 307.

• Picciotto (Zichron Yaacov): Namedfor its founder and former chef, anex-fighter pilot who has moved on tothe world of computers, this is adelightful Mediterranean restaurantset in a 19th-century cottage. It’s notcheap, but by Israeli standards is avery good value. See p. 310.

• Uri Buri (Akko): Chef/owner UriYirmias is a man who knows where toget top-quality fish and seafood andhow to prepare it, and who loves tosee customers enjoying his dishes.Seaside sunsets and the ambience ofOld Akko are extra pluses of thisquality, informal place. See p. 320.

• 1872 Hashmura Restaurant (Haifa):Named for the year in which thequaint stone mansion it occupies wasbuilt, this rustic French restaurant,strong on meat dishes, is an atmos-pheric choice for a special night out.It’s also surprisingly affordable. See p. 342.

• Decks (Tiberias): With a setting thatfloats on the surface of the Sea ofGalilee like a Fellini dream, Decksoffers luxurious meats expertly grilled

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over olive- and citrus-wood fires. Asan extra, you get a complimentarypost-dinner disco cruise. Decks is

kosher and a great choice for a mem-orable evening at upper moderateprices. See p. 380.

T H E B E S T M O D E R AT E D I N I N G 21

Israel is filled with interesting, affordablerestaurants ranging from authentic ethnicand natural Mediterranean to kosherIndian or Mexican and gracefully inven-tive French. In order to be accessible tokosher diners, many Israeli restaurantsoffer vegetarian-only menus that areimaginative and affordable. The follow-ing is a selection of unusual choices foratmosphere, good food, and good value,but you’ll find many other fabulousrestaurants listed throughout this book.

• Adom (Jerusalem): An atmosphericold Jerusalem stone building houses arelaxed place with heavenly food andupper-moderate prices that should behigher (but don’t tell them that). Seep. 149.

• Chakra (Jerusalem): The decor hereis inventive eclectic, and so is the cui-sine—unique dishes created by a chefwho loves spices and cooks his heartout, creating new tastes and mixinginfluences from all over the world.Besides the standard menu, there’s anightly tour de force of a dozen spe-cials. See p. 152.

• Village Green (Jerusalem): Thisinexpensive vegetarian cafeteria righton Zion Square is virtually a publicservice, and is the best place in townfor a healthy, hefty, fast meal.Lasagna, veggie pies, tasty soups, andsalads by weight top the menu at thiskosher L’Mehedrin restaurant. See p. 148.

• Spaghettim (Jerusalem): This fabu-lous restaurant offers a vast array ofspaghettis in fantastic sauces loadedwith fresh ingredients. The Jerusalembranch, set in an old Ottoman-eramansion with a delightful dining

garden, is an especially romantic loca-tion, but there’s also a branch in TelAviv. See p. 147 and 258.

• Levan at the Cinémathèque (Jeru-salem): The view of the Old Citywalls from the terrace here is breath-taking, the crowd is intelligent andstylish, and the menu is very afford-able. Salads, peasant sandwiches, anda good, reasonably priced pasta andfish menu are offered. In coldweather, the indoor dining room canbe smoky, but in good weather, ameal or dessert on the terrace is amust. See p. 161.

• Kohinoor (Jerusalem): This kosherIndian restaurant provides a rareopportunity for kosher visitors tosample well-prepared Indian cuisine.The all-you-can-eat luncheon buffetsare very affordable. The nonkosherTandoori restaurants (Tel Aviv, Eilat,and Herzlia) of the same chain areequally excellent, elegant, and a goodvalue. See p. 154.

• Manta Ray (Tel Aviv): On an emptystretch of beach between Tel Aviv andJaffa, this beach pavilion is open tothe sea, the sound of the waves, andthe Mediterranean sunset. It servesgreat medleys of tapas, stylishly pre-pared fish and seafood, and is a goodchoice for breakfast or leisurelylunches and dinners. See p. 266.

• Margaret Tayar’s (Jaffa): This is asmall, authentic place a short walkfrom trendy Old Jaffa, with a coveredterrace overlooking the sweeping TelAviv shoreline and a master cook wholoves to see people enjoying her cre-ations. Jaffa’s fishers adore Mar-garet—she gets first choice of the

11 The Best Moderate Dining

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Page 18: The Best of Israel, Jordan & Sinai - Wiley...The Best of Israel, Jordan & Sinai A journey to Israel is a journey to a place where the past and present call out to trav-elers in astonishing

catch. This is a one-woman tour deforce whose hefty, unforced dishes(including exquisitely grilled fish)have been lionized in Gourmet.Always call to confirm hours. This isone of the very best restaurants in thecountry at any price. See p. 267.

• Erez (Herzlia): Erez Komarovsky hascreated a one-man world of contem-porary Israeli cuisine served in a func-tional but bright, imaginative space.The entire concept draws on Israelitraditions of brashness, pragmatism,and a touch of poetry. It’s alwaysexciting, blessed with heavenly breads,and moderately priced, which makesthe taxi ride up from Tel Aviv aworthwhile investment. See p. 293.

• Abu Christo (Old Akko): Fresh fishand a covered dining terrace rightbeside the sea give this restaurant adelightful Greek Island harborsideambience. You can put together a

feast here, complete with MiddleEastern appetizers, for the price of asingle main course elsewhere. See p. 320.

• Ramon Inn Restaurant (MitzpeRamon, Negev): This hotel restau-rant serves the best food to be foundfrom The Dead Sea to the outskirts ofEilat. The evening buffet (get there at7pm) is filled with gently ethnic,home-style offerings. The large break-fast buffet, open to outsiders, offersexotic jams and fluffy, gourmet pitamade less than a minute before it’s onyour plate. See p. 453.

• Eddie’s Hideaway (Eilat): In atourist town at the end of the earth,where most restaurants plan for cus-tomers they’ll never see again, Eddieputs his heart into every meal andkeeps coming up with Continentaland Asian-touched menus that aredelicious and inventive. See p. 474.

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