The Best of Greece

Greece is, of course, the land of ancient sites and architectural treasures—the Acrop-olis in Athens, the amphitheater of Epidaurus, and the reconstructed palace at Knos-sos among the best known. But Greece is much more: It offers age-old spectacularnatural sights, for instance—from Santorini’s caldera to the gray pinnacles of rock ofthe Meteora—and modern diversions ranging from elegant museums to luxuryresorts. It can be bewildering to plan your trip with so many options vying for yourattention. Take us along and we’ll do the work for you. We’ve traveled the countryextensively and chosen the very best that Greece has to offer. We’ve explored thearchaeological sites, visited the museums, inspected the hotels, reviewed the tavernasand ouzeries, and scoped out the beaches. Here’s what we consider the best of the best.

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1 The Best Travel Experiences• Making Haste Slowly: Give yourself

time to sit in a seaside taverna andwatch the fishing boats come and go.If you visit Greece in the spring, takethe time to smell the flowers; thefields are covered with poppies,daisies, and other blooms. Even inAthens, you’ll see hardy species growing through the cracks in con-crete sidewalks—or better yet, visitAthens’s Ancient Agora, which willbe carpeted with a dazzling variety ofwildflowers. See chapter 6, “Explor-ing Athens.”

• Island-Hopping in the Cyclades:Though the Cyclades are bound byunmistakable family resemblance,each island has a unique personality.Distances between islands are small,making travel by ferry pleasant andlogistically straightforward (at least inprinciple). If you are traveling in theoff season, when you do not needhotel reservations, don’t plan toomuch in advance and allow yourselfto “go with the flow”—a tactful way of

preparing you for the unexpected inisland boat schedules! See chapter 10,“The Cyclades.”

• Leaving the Beaten Path: Persistagainst your body’s and mind’s signalsthat “this may be pushing too far,”leave the main routes and majorattractions behind, and make yourown discoveries of landscape, villages,or activities. For instance, seek out achurch or monastery such as MoniAyios Nikolaos outside Metsovo—you may be rewarded by a movingencounter with the church and itscaretaker. When you visit theCycladic Islands, consider a base onTinos, which is very popular withGreeks but attracts hardly any for-eigners. See “Metsovo” on p. 528.

• Exploring the Naturalists’ Greece:There is a Greece beyond thecolumns and cafes—a land of ruggedterrain and wildflowers and birds andother natural phenomena. Sign upfor a special tour (see chapter 2,“Planning Your Trip to Greece”), or

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go it alone with one of the severalbeautifully illustrated handbooksavailable, such as Oleg Polunin’sFlowers of Greece and the Balkans(Oxford Univ. Press); or Birds ofEurope (McGraw-Hill), by BertelBruun and Arthur Singer. And don’tforget your binoculars!

• Sunrise, Sunset: Get up a little ear-lier than usual to see the sun rise(preferably from the Aegean, illumi-nating the islands). Then watch itsink over the mountains (anywhere inGreece, but try not to miss the sun-sets that change the Ionian Sea fromthe deepest blue to a fiery red).

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2 The Best of Ancient Greece• The Acropolis (Athens): No matter

how many photographs you’ve seen,nothing can prepare you for watchingthe light change the marble of thebuildings, still standing after thou-sands of years, from honey to rose todeep red to stark white. If the crowdsget you down, remember howcrowded the Acropolis was during reli-gious festivals in antiquity. See p. 181.

• Nemea (Peloponnese): This gem of asite has it all: a beautifully restoredstadium, a handsome museum, evenpicnic tables with a view of theromantic Doric temple. Look for thethree long-standing columns—andseveral newly restored and reerectedones. If you’re lucky, you may seeNemea’s archaeologists at work lov-ingly reconstructing and reerectingmore columns from the temple’snorth facade in their ambitiousrestoration project. See p. 268.

• Olympia (Peloponnese) & Delphi(Central Greece): Try to visit bothOlympia, where the Olympic Gamesbegan, and Delphi, home of the Del-phic Oracle. That’s the only wayyou’ll be able to decide whetherOlympia, with its massive templesand shady groves of trees, or Delphi,perched on mountain slopes over-looking olive trees and the sea, is themost beautiful ancient site in Greece.See chapters 8 and 12.

• Palace of Knossos (Crete): A seem-ingly unending maze of rooms and

levels and stairways and corridors andfrescoed walls—this is the MinoanPalace of Knossos. It can be packed atpeak hours, but it still exerts its powerif you enter in the spirit of thelabyrinth. King Minos ruled over therichest and most powerful of Minoancities and, according to legend, hisdaughter Ariadne helped Theseus killthe Minotaur in the labyrinth andescape. See p. 307.

• Delos (Cyclades): This tiny isle, just3.2km (2 miles) offshore of Myko-nos, was considered by the ancientGreeks to be both the geographicaland spiritual center of the Cyclades;many considered this the holiestsanctuary in all of Greece. The exten-sive remains here testify to the island’sformer splendor. From Mount Kin-thos (really just a hill, but the island’shighest point), you can see many ofthe Cyclades most days; on a veryclear day, you can see the entire archi-pelago. The 3 hours allotted by excursion boats from Mykonos orTinos are hardly sufficient to explorethis vast archaeological treasure. Seechapter 10.

• Vergina (Northern Greece): In thebrilliantly designed museum here,you can peek into what may havebeen the tomb of Alexander theGreat’s father, Philip of Macedon.Nearby, more than 300 burialmounds stretch for miles across theMacedonian plain. See p. 593.

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Sea o f Cre t e CRETE

IerapetraAyia Galini

Rethymnon Ayios NikolaosIraklion

Chania

Piraeus

Skiathos

Skopelos

Corfu

Paxos

Lefkada

IthakaKefalonia

ZakinthosAthensCorinth

NafplionEpidaurus

Mycenae

Argos

Megalopolis

Andritsena

SpartaMistra

Monemvassia

Kythira

Githio

Areopolis

KalamataPilos

Olympia

Kyllini

Patras

Delphi

Volos

Thessaloniki

Megara

Thebes

LivadiaMessolongi

Agrinio

Astakos

Vonitsa

Praveza

Arta

KarpenissiLamia

Larissa

Karditsa

Trikkala

Ioannina

KalpakiElassona

Kastoria

EdessaGiannitsa

KilkisSerres

Loutra Edipsou

IONIAN ISLANDS

SARONIC GULF

ISLANDS

MACEDONIA

EPIRUS THESSALY

CENTRALGREECE

PELOPONNESE

FORMER YUGOSLAV REPUBLICOF MACEDONIA

ALBANIA

Mt. Parnassus

Tripoli

Metsovo Meteora(Kalambaka)

ZAGORI

Igoumenitsou

Pirgos

Pella

Vergina

Dion

KozaniStratoni

PelionPeninsula

AdriaticSea

�

IonianSea

Mediterranean Sea

Mt. Olympus

Lake Pamvotis

Lake Pamvotis

Tirana�

MediterraneanSea

AegeanSea

AegeanSeaAthensAthens

CRETECRETE

0 25 mi

0 25 km

GREECE

Greece

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To Crete(approx. 60 milesfrom mainland)

Donoussa

Kea

Anafi

Amorgos

Simi

Patmos

Kalimnos

Karpathos

Mykonos

Delos

Siros

ParosNaxos

Ios

Santorini

Tinos

Andros

Serifos

Sifnos

Milos

Alonissos

Skyros

Antiparos

Samos

Hios

Lesvos(Mitilini)

Limnos

Samothraki

Thasos

Rhodes

Xanthi

Alexandroupolis

Kimi

Karystos

Izmir

NORTHEASTERNAEGEAN ISLANDS

CYCLADES

DODECANESE

THRACETURKEY

TURKEY

BULGARIA

Mt. Athos

Folegandros

EVVIA

Kos

Sounion

Drama

KomotiniKavala

SPORADES

Aegean SeaLake

Pamvotis

Sea of Marmara

Ikaria

Mountain

AegeanSeaAthens

CRETE

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GREECEGREECE

T H E B E S T O F A N C I E N T G R E E C E 9

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3 The Best of Byzantine & Medieval Greece• Mistra (Peloponnese): This Byzan-

tine ghost town has streets lined withthe remains of homes both humbleand palatial, as well as some of themost beautiful churches in all ofGreece. If you have the energy, climbto the top of the defense walls for thesuperb view over the plain of Sparta.Try to visit in spring, when Mistra iscarpeted with wildflowers. See p. 277.

• Church of Panagia Kera (Kritsa,Crete): If Byzantine art seems a bitstilted and remote, this strikingchapel in the foothills of easternCrete will reward you with its unex-pected intimacy. The 14th- and 15th-century frescoes are not onlystunning but depict all the familiarbiblical stories. See p. 338.

• The Churches of Thessaloniki(Northern Greece): Thessaloniki’sByzantine churches are the finest notjust in Greece but in the entire world.From tiny Osios David to toweringAyios Dimitrios, these churches boastmosaics and frescoes that give youastonishing glimpses of the artisticgrandeur of the mighty Byzantineempire. See p. 570.

• Nea Moni (Hios, NortheasternAegean): Once home to 1,000monks, this 12th-century monasteryhigh in the interior mountains ofHios is now quietly inhabited by oneelderly but sprightly nun and twofriendly monks. Try to catch one ofthe excellent tours sometimes offered

by the monks. The mosaics in thecathedral dome are works of extraor-dinary power and beauty; even in thehalf-obscurity of the nave, they radi-ate a brilliant gold. Check out thesmall museum, and take some timeto explore the extensive monasterygrounds. See p. 615.

• Monemvassia (Peloponnese): Longcalled “The Gibraltar of Greece,” thisrocky promontory crowned by amedieval citadel and church has onlyone real street (just wide enough fortwo donkeys to pass each other), nocars, cobbled lanes, beautifullyrestored stone houses (some of whichare now hotels), and views that stretchforever over the sea. See p. 280.

• A Clutch of Castles: Acrocorinth,Argos, Mistra & Nafplion (Pelo-ponnese): Some of these castles haveancient foundations; all were addedonto by the Franks, Venetians,Byzantines, and Turks. Several wereused as fortresses as recently as WorldWar II. See chapter 8.

• A Profusion of Byzantine Churchesin the Cyclades: The fertile country-side of the island of Naxos is dottedby well-preserved Byzantine chapels.Parikia, the capital of Paros, has theByzantine-era cathedral of PanagiaEkatondapiliani. Santorini boasts the11th- to 12th-century church of thePanagia in the hamlet of GoniasEpiskopi. See chapter 10.

4 The Best Beaches• Arvanitia (Nafplion, Peloponnese):

After a vigorous and tiring day ofsightseeing, this small municipalbeach can seem like the best inGreece. Handy changing rooms andshowers make this a great place for a

quick break between exploring theruins at Mycenae and taking in a playat Epidaurus. See p. 256.

• Plaka (Naxos, Cyclades): Naxos hasthe longest stretches of sea sand inthe Cyclades, and Plaka is the most

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beautiful and pristine beach on theisland. On its 4.8km (3-mile) stretchof mostly undeveloped shoreline,you can easily imagine yourself asRobinson Crusoe alone on his island(bending the plot to include a fewsunbathing Fridays). If you needabundant amenities and a moreactive social scene, you can alwayshead north to Ayia Anna or AyiosProkopios. See p. 389.

• Paradise (Mykonos, Cyclades): Par-adise is the quintessential partybeach, known for wild revelry thatcontinues through the night. Anextensive complex built on the beachincludes a bar, taverna, changingrooms, and souvenir shops. This is aplace to see and be seen, a place toshow off muscles laboriously acquiredduring the long winter months. Seep. 397.

• Lalaria Beach (Skiathos, Sporades):This gleaming, white-pebble beachboasts vivid aquamarine water andwhite limestone cliffs with naturalarches cut into them by the elements.Lalaria is not nearly as popular nor as

accessible as Skiathos’s famous Kou-kounaries, which is one of the reasonsit’s still gorgeous and pristine. See p. 497.

• Megalo Seitani (Samos, Northeast-ern Aegean): Megalo Seitani and itsneighbor, Micro Seitani, are situatedon the mountainous and remotenorthwest coast of Samos. Therearen’t any roads to this part of theisland, so the only ways to reach thebeaches are by a short boat ride or arather long (and beautiful) hike. Youwon’t regret taking the trouble, sinceboth beaches are superb: Micro Sei-tani’s crescent of pebbles in a rockycove, and Megalo Seitani’s expanse ofpristine sand. See p. 607.

• Vroulidia (Hios, NortheasternAegean): White sand, a cliff-rimmedcove, and a remote location at thesouthern tip of the island of Hioscombine to make this one of the mostexquisite small beaches in the north-eastern Aegean. The rocky coast con-ceals many cove beaches similar tothis one, and they rarely becomecrowded. See p. 617.

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5 The Best Scenic Villages & Towns• Monemvassia & Nafplion (Pelo-

ponnese): Everyone says it, and foronce, everyone is right: Nafplion isthe loveliest town in the Peloponnese,and Monemvassia is the region’s mostspectacular village. Thanks to thespeedy hydrofoils (Flying Dolphins),you can visit both spots and decidefor yourself which has the best cafes,castles, and sunsets. See chapter 8.

• Chania (Crete): Radiating from itshandsome harbor and backdroppedby the White Mountains, Chania hasmanaged to hold on to much of itsVenetian Renaissance and later Turk-ish heritage. Wander the old town’snarrow lanes, filled with a heady mix

of colorful local culture, and enjoy itscharming hotels, excellent restau-rants, interesting shops, and swingingnightspots. See p. 315.

• Hora (Folegandros, Cyclades): In thistown huddled at the edge of a cliff,one square spills into the next, itsgreen and blue paving slates outlinedin brilliant white. On a steep hill over-looking the town is the ornate churchof Kimisis Theotokou, often illumi-nated at night. The church’s icon ofthe Virgin is paraded through thestreets of Hora with great ceremonyand revelry every Easter Sunday. Mer-cifully free of vehicular traffic, Hora isone of the most beautiful and least

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spoiled villages in the Cyclades. See p. 362.

• Yialos (Simi, Dodecanese): Theentirety of Yialos, the main port ofthe tiny, rugged island of Simi, hasbeen declared a protected architec-tural treasure, and for good reason.This pristine port with its extraordi-nary array of neoclassical mansions isa large part of why Simi is known as“the jewel of the Dodecanese.” See p. 446.

• Ermoupolis (Siros, Cyclades): In the19th century, this was the busiestport in the Cyclades. Today, it is stilla hub for island travel and retains anastonishing number of handsomeneoclassical governmental buildings,ship sheds and factories, and eleganttown houses. Walk uphill from theharbor to Ano Siros (upper Siros) andyou’ll find an old kastro (fortress) anda miniature whitewashed Cycladicvillage. See p. 419.

• Skopelos Town (Skopelos, Spo-rades): The amazingly well-preservedSkopelos, a traditional whitewashedisland port town, is adorned every-where with pots of flowering plants.It offers some fairly sophisticateddiversions, several excellent restau-rants, a couple good hotels, and lotsof shopping. See p. 502.

• Metsovo (Western Greece): Steepslopes, ever-green conifers, stonehouses with slate and slanted roofs,stolid villagers in traditional clothing

speaking a Latin-based language—ifthis is Thursday, you must be inSwitzerland. But no, it’s Metsovo, inEpirus. Occasionally jammed withexcursionists, this mountain townstill comes through as an authenticlocale, refreshing in the summer andinvigorating in the winter ski season.See p. 528.

• Corfu Town (Corfu, Ionian Islands):With its Esplanade framed by a 19th-century palace and the arcaded Lis-ton, its old town a Venice-like warrenof structures practically untouchedfor several centuries, its massiveVenetian fortresses, and all thisenclosing a lively population andconstant visitors, here is urbanGreece at its most appealing. See p. 534.

• Piryi & Mesta (Hios, NortheasternAegean): These two small towns, inthe pastoral southern hills of Hios,are marvelous creations of themedieval imagination. Connected bytheir physical proximity and a sharedhistory, each is quirkily unique and adelight to explore. In Piryi, everyavailable surface is covered with elab-orate geometric black-and-white dec-orations known as Ksisti, a techniquethat reaches extraordinary levels ofvirtuosity in the town square. Mestahas preserved its medieval urban fab-ric and conceals two fine churcheswithin its maze of narrow streets. Seep. 616.

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6 The Best Islands• Hydra (Saronic Gulf Islands): Old-

timers keep waiting for Hydra, withits handsome stone mansions over-looking a picture-postcard harbor, tobe spoiled. After all, even beforeMykonos and Santorini, Hydra wasone of the first Greek islands to be“discovered.” So far, so good: Don-keys still outnumber motorcycles,

and the day-trippers who blitzthrough the appealing harborsideshops leave at twilight. That meansyou can almost always find the tableyou want at one of Hydra’s pleasantsmall restaurants. See p. 235.

• Crete: Whether for its rugged moun-tains or its countless beaches, itsancient remains or its ultramodern

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hotels, its layered history or itsintense people, Crete cannot bedenied. It is not just a distinctiveGreek island—it is a world untoitself. See chapter 9.

• Santorini (Cyclades): This isundoubtedly one of the most spectac-ular islands in the world. The streetsof Fira and Ia are carved into the faceof a high cliff, overlooking the circu-lar caldera left by an ancient volcaniceruption and now filled with thedeep-blue waters of the Aegean. Thesite of Akrotiri offers a uniqueglimpse into life in a Minoan city,frozen in time by the eruption 3,600years ago. Be sure to find out if thisspectacular site, which was closed tothe public at press time, has reopenedwhen you visit. Add to this the Firanightlife scene, and you’ll see whythis is one of the most popular (andovercrowded) summer vacation spotsin the Aegean. See p. 342.

• Siros (Cyclades): This tiny island hasit all: a vivacious, cosmopolitan capi-tal town; thriving beach resorts; and astarkly beautiful region of farmingcommunities, archaeological remains,and remote beaches to the north.Siros is also one of the centers of rem-betika, a form of Greek traditionalmusic with roots in Asia Minor. TheFragosiriani, a classic known through-out Greece, was composed by theSiriot Markos Vamvakaris, and you’resure to hear its simple and infectiousrhythms many times during your stayhere. See p. 417.

• Tinos (Cyclades): The island oftencalled the “Lourdes of Greece,”because of the church, Panagia Evan-gelistria (Our Lady of Good Tidings)with its healing icon, also has Venet-ian dovecotes; farm fields set off withhandsome stone boundary walls; andPirgos, the village of marble. Seechapter 10.

• Rhodes (Dodecanese): The island ofRhodes has everything a visitor couldwant—dazzling ancient and medievalruins, great food, spectacular beaches,and the hottest nightlife outside ofAthens—the one drawback being thateveryone knows it. See chapter 11.

• Skyros (Sporades): Winding roadsand remote beaches, one main townand a few minor villages, someancient legends and 20th-centurytales: Skyros’s charms remain perhapsthe most elusive of the four NorthernSporades. But though the islandremains a bit difficult to access andnot overstocked with touristy ameni-ties, Skyros also offers both a livinglocal culture and some natural wild-ness. See chapter 13.

• Corfu (Ionian Islands): With lushvegetation, some still undevelopedinterior and unspoiled coast, ancientsites and a 19th-century presence, adash of Italy and a dose of the cos-mopolitan, Corfu is a Greek islandlike no other. Tourism may be ram-pant, but Corfu’s attractions have sur-vived worse. See chapter 15.

• Hios (Northeastern Aegean): You’dthink that an island with such gor-geous beaches, exquisite medievaltowns, and remarkable scenerywouldn’t remain a secret for long.Despite the qualities that attract asmall group of devotees year afteryear, Hios remains surprisingly quiet.If you like the idea of getting awayfrom the tour buses, being alone on abeach to rival any in the Cyclades,and exploring towns that preserve thecontours of medieval life, Hios is foryou. Another benefit: The local hos-pitality hasn’t worn thin here, as it hason many of the more heavily touredislands. See chapter 17.

• Sifnos (Cyclades): Sifnos is a greenisland of ravines, mountaintops, andpristine beaches. Despite its small size

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(a hardy walker can explore the entireisland on foot), Sifnos has numerousattractive small towns which can beused as bases for your explorations.Apollonia, in the central hills, offerselegant small-town civility, with theadded benefit of being the hub of an

excellent public transportation sys-tem. The kastro (castle), on its seasiderock, is the medieval locus of theisland, while Platis Yialos is a quietbeach resort. Don’t visit in August,when the island is mobbed with vaca-tioning Athenians. See chapter 10.

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7 The Best Places to Get Away from It All• National Garden (Athens): It’s all

too easy to overlook this oasis of calmand cool in the heart of Athens. You’lldiscover shady benches, a small cafe,a superb restaurant, and lots ofopportunities to enjoy watchingGreek families out for a stroll. Keepan eye out for the balloon sellers onweekends. See p. 200.

• Mount Likavitos (Lycabettus)(Athens): Walk up Likavitos at dawnand enjoy the sunrise over the hillsthat surround Athens. Come back forsunset, and you may encounter oth-ers strolling here, but the sounds (andsmells!) of Athens’s ferocious trafficwill be pleasantly distant. See p. 200.

• Folegandros (Cyclades): Most visi-tors to Greece once sailed past theformidable Folegandros cliffs enroute from the mainland to Santoriniand other islands; they’d catch aglimpse of the whitewashed kastrowalls perched 300m (984 ft.) abovethe sea. The beauty of Hora, the finebeaches, and the great walking trailsare no longer secrets, but if youarrive during the off season, Folegan-dros still offers a restful retreat.Largely free of the commercialismthat has engulfed so many Aegean

isles, Folegandros is now appearingon insider lists as “the” new place tovisit. See p. 360.

• Zagori & Vikos Gorge (WesternGreece): If the 40-some tiny villageslinked by roads lined with spectacularterrain are not enough, you can ven-ture into at least a section of one ofthe most spectacular gorges inEurope. Greeks and some Europeanshave long appreciated this undevel-oped corner of northwestern Greeceknown as the Zagoria. See p. 530.

• The Road Not Taken (Greece):Don’t fret if you take a wrong turn inGreece, whether it is on a street inAthens or a road somewhere in thecountry. Go with it! This may be thehighlight of your trip—the Athenianshop-owner who shows you picturesof his aunt’s family in Chicago whenyou stop to ask for directions; theyiayia (granny) next to you on thatboat that you caught after the boatyou wanted to catch had left; theschool child who quizzes you aboutwhy you came to Greece when youbump into him at an ancient site; thelittle village you chance upon becauseyou stumbled onto the road you didnot mean to take.

8 The Best Museums• National Archaeological Museum

(Athens): This stunning collection,which reopened after a major renova-tion in 2004, has it all: superb red-and black-figured vases, bronze stat-

ues, Mycenaean gold, marble reliefsof gods and goddesses, and thehauntingly beautiful frescoes fromAkrotiri, the Minoan site on theisland of Santorini. Unfortunately, at

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press time only the ground floor wasopen, but authorities promise thatthe entire museum will be open“soon.” See p. 192.

• Museum of Greek Popular MusicalInstruments (Athens): Life-size pho-tos of musicians beside their actualinstruments and recordings of tradi-tional Greek music make this one ofthe country’s most charming muse-ums. On our last visit, an elderlyGreek gentleman listened to somemusic, transcribed it, stepped intothe courtyard, and played it on hisown violin! See p. 192.

• Archaeological Museum of Iraklion(Crete): Few museums in the worldcan boast of holding virtually all theimportant remains of a major culture.This museum can do just that withits Minoan collection, includingsuperb frescoes from Knossos, elegantbronze and stone figurines, and

exquisite gold jewelry. The museumalso contains Neolithic, ArchaicGreek, and Roman finds fromthroughout Crete. See p. 307.

• Archaeological Museum of Chania(Crete): Let’s hear it for a truly engag-ing provincial museum, not one fullof masterworks but rather of repre-sentative works from thousands ofyears, a collection that lets us see howmany people experienced their differ-ent worlds. All this, in a former Ital-ian Renaissance church that feels likea special place. See p. 318.

• Archaeological Museum of Thessa-loniki & Museum of ByzantineCulture (Northern Greece): Theseside-by-side museums have fascinat-ing exhibits on the art and architec-ture of Thessaloniki and NorthernGreece from the earliest days throughthe Byzantine era. See p. 566 and p. 568.

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9 The Best of Greece’s Religious Treasures• Panagia Evangelistria (Tinos,

Cyclades): The most revered religiousshrine in Greece. See p. 411.

• Patmos (Dodecanese): For 2 millen-nia, this small island of more than300 churches has been hallowedground, a place of pilgrimage. TheMonastery of St. John the Divine andthe Cave of the Apocalypse, where St.John is said to have dictated the Bookof Revelation, are among the mostrevered and wondrous Byzantinetreasures in the world. See p. 461.

• The Monasteries of the Meteora(Central Greece): Even from a dis-tance, the monasteries perched atopthe weird rock formations and mini-mountains of the Meteora are one ofthe most awesome sights in Greece.Inside, the monasteries are equallyimpressive, with fine collections ofmanuscripts, frescoed chapels, shymonks, and chatty nuns. See p. 487.

• Aslan Pasha Mosque & Cami atIoannina (Western Greece): Little ofGreece’s Turkish-Muslim phase hassurvived beyond the odd minaret, buthere on the promontory of the walledquarter of Ioannina are the still-solid,fine old mosque (now a museum),minaret, and school. Picturesquefrom afar, they speak up close ofIoannina’s—and Greece’s—diversepast. See p. 522.

• Mount Athos (Northern Greece):Only men can visit the Holy Moun-tain, where monks still live in isola-tion in some of the most isolated—and beautiful—monasteries in allGreece. If you can’t go to Athos itself,take heart: The boats from Ouranop-olis that cruise around the peninsulaoffer excellent views of the rugged,pine-clad promontory and some ofthe monasteries. See p. 598.

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10 The Best Resorts & Hotels• Andromeda Hotel (Athens; & 210/

643-7302): The city’s first serious“boutique” hotel, located on a won-derfully quiet side street, the classyAndromeda offers charm, comfort,and a reassuringly helpful staff. Seep. 166.

• Grande Bretagne (Athens; & 210/333-0000): Back for a return engage-ment and better than ever, Athens’spremiere hotel still overlooks the bestview in town if you have the rightroom: Syntagma Square, the Housesof Parliament and, in case you won-dered, the Acropolis. See p. 164.

• Malvasia (Monemvassia, Pelopon-nese; & 27320/61-323): The Malva-sia brought the concept of theboutique hotel to the Peloponnese.Each room in the Malvasia is differ-ent, with some of the nicest overlook-ing the sea; all are tastefully furnishedwith hand-loomed rugs and antiques.A visit here gives you the illusion ofstaying in the home of wealthy Greekfriends who have enormously goodtaste—and who just happen to beaway and have left the staff behind totend to your needs. See p. 282.

• Atlantis Hotel (Iraklion, Crete; & 2810/229-103): There are manymore luxurious hotels in Greece, butfew can beat the Atlantis’s urbanattractions: a central location, mod-ern facilities, and views over a busyharbor. You can swim in the pool,work out in the fitness center, sende-mail via your laptop, and thenwithin minutes enjoy a fine meal orvisit a museum. See p. 310.

• Doma (Chania, Crete; & 28210/51-772): A former neoclassical man-sion east of downtown, the Doma hasbeen converted into a comfortableand charming hotel, furnished withthe proprietor’s family heirlooms.

Although it’s not for those seekingthe most luxurious amenities, itsatmosphere appeals to many. See p. 320.

• Astra Apartments (Santorini, Cycla-des; & 22860/23-641): This smallhotel with handsomely appointedapartments looks like a miniaturewhitewashed village—and has spec-tacular views over Santorini’s famouscaldera. The sunsets here are not tobe believed, the staff is incrediblyhelpful, and the village of Imerovigliitself offers an escape from the touris-tic madness that overwhelms theisland each summer. This is a spot toget married in—or celebrate any spe-cial occasion here. See p. 354.

• Anemomilos Apartments (Folegan-dros, Cyclades; & 22860/41-309)and Castro Hotel (Folegandros,Cyclades; & 22860/41-230): Thesmall island of Folegandros has twoof the nicest hotels in the Cyclades,both with terrific cliff-top locations.The Anemomilos has all the creaturecomforts, traditional decor, and agood location (it’s just out of town),with a delicious pool and sea viewsthat stretch forever. The Castro, builtinto the walls of the 12th-centuryVenetian castle that encircles the vil-lage, has lots of character and the nec-essary modern comforts. See p. 363.

• Rodos Palace (Rhodes, Dodecanese;& 22410/25-222): The largest five-star hotel in Greece and possibly in theentire Mediterranean, this “palace”was decorated by the famed designerof the movies Ben-Hur and Quo Vadis.Located in Iksia, just outside Rhodescity, it offers all the amenities imagina-ble, including a family center—aresort within a resort designed to pro-vide the ultimate holiday for travelerswith children. See p. 436.

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• Hotel Nireus (Simi, Dodecanese; & 22410/72-400): Perfect island,perfect location, unpretentious, andtasteful. The views from the sea-fac-ing rooms, framed by the fluid swirlsof the wrought-iron balcony, definethe spell of this little gem of anisland. You’ll never regret one morenight on Simi, and here’s the place tospend it. See p. 450.

• White Rocks Hotel & Bungalows(Kefalonia, Ionian Islands; & 26710/28-332): For those who appreciateunderstated elegance, a shady retreatfrom all that sunshine, a privatebeach, and quiet but attentive service,

this hotel, located a couple of milesoutside Argostoli, can be paradise.See p. 551.

• Mediterranean Palace Hotel (Thes-saloniki; & 2310/552-554). Thishotel has it all: location (overlookingthe harbor, in the trendy Ladadikadistrict) and luxury. The lobby is, asyou might expect, seriously glitzy—but the really pleasant surprise is thecomfort and elegance of the guestrooms. The service is usually excel-lent. The two restaurants are goodenough to tempt you to dine here atleast one night rather than explorethe hot spots of Ladadika. See p. 580.

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11 The Best Restaurants• Daphne’s (Athens; & 210/322-

7971): As well as Pompeiian-stylewall frescoes and one of the nicest gar-dens in Athens, Daphne’s offers con-sistently delicious food. It makes youwonder why other Greek restaurantscan’t make supposedly simple disheslike eggplant salad or yogurt withquince taste this distinctive. Added toall this are strolling musicians—andthe owners and staff are so delightfulthat you hate to leave, even when youcan’t eat another prawn with toastedalmonds. See p. 172.

• Vlassis (Athens; & 210/646-3060):This small restaurant with a veryloyal following (ranging from promi-nent ambassadors to strugglingartists) serves traditional (paradisi-ako) Greek cooking at its very best. Atempting choice if you have only onenight in Athens—but be sure tomake a reservation. See p. 179.

• Varoulko (Athens; & 210/522-8400;www.varoulko.gr): In its new Athenslocation, with a menu that adds tastymeat dishes to its signature seafood,Varoulko continues to win plaudits.Everything here is so good that many

Athenians believe chef/owner LefterisLazarou serves not only the finestseafood in Athens, but some of thebest food in all of Greece. See p. 179.

• Nykterida (Chania, Crete; & 28210/64-215): We’re not saying that thelocation may influence your tastebuds here, but the spectacular viewsfrom this restaurant high above Cha-nia and Soudha Bay can definitelymake you feel as if you’re eating ameal like few others in Greece. See p. 322.

• Selene (Santorini, Cyclades; & 22860/22-249): The best restaurant on anisland with lots of good places to eat,Selene is one of the finest restaurantsin all Greece. The reason: OwnersGeorge and Evelyn Hatzyiannakisconstantly experiment with local pro-duce to turn out their own innovativeversions of traditional dishes. Inside,the dining room is elegant, while theterrace has a wonderful view over thecaldera. See p. 358.

• Petrino (Kos, Dodecanese; & 22420/27-251): When royalty come toKos, this is where they dine. Housedin an exquisitely restored, two-story,

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century-old stone (petrino) privateresidence, this is hands-down themost elegant taverna in Kos, withcuisine to match. This is what Greekhome cooking would be if yourmother were part divine. See p. 459.

• Venetian Well (Corfu, IonianIslands; & 26610/44-761): A bit

severe in its setting at the edge of asmall enclosed square in Corfu town,with no attempt at the picturesque,this restaurant gets by on its moreesoteric, international, and delicatemenu. It’s for those seeking a breakfrom the standard Greek scene. See p. 543.

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12 The Best Nightlife• Theater Under the Stars (Athens

and Epidaurus, Peloponnese): If youcan, take in a performance of what-ever is on at Odeion of Herodes Atti-cus theater in Athens or the theater atEpidaurus. You’ll be sitting wherepeople have sat for thousands of yearsto enjoy a play beneath Greece’s mag-ical night sky. See chapters 6 and 8.

• Mykonos (Cyclades): Mykonos isn’tthe only island town in Greece withnightlife that continues through themorning, but it was the first and stilloffers the most abundant, variedscene in the Aegean. Year-round, thetown’s narrow, labyrinthine streetsplay host to a remarkably diversecrowd—Mykonos’s unlimited abilityto reinvent itself has assured it of con-tinued popularity. Spring and falltend to be more sober and sophisti-cated, while the 3 months of summerare reserved for unrestrained revelry.See chapter 10.

• Rhodes (Dodecanese): From cafesto casinos, Rhodes has not only the

reputation but also the stuff to backit up. A good nightlife scene is ulti-mately a matter of who shows up—and this, too, is where Rhodes standsout. It’s the place to be seen, and ifnobody seems to be looking, youcan always watch. See chapter 11.

• Skiathos (Sporades): With as manyas 50,000 foreigners packing this tinyisland during the high season, themany nightspots in Skiathos town areoften jammed with the mostlyyounger set. If you don’t like themusic at one club, cross the street.See chapter 13.

• Corfu (Ionian Islands): If raucousnightspots are what you look for on aholiday, Corfu offers probably thelargest concentration in Greece. Mostof these are beach resorts frequentedby young foreigners. More sedatelocales can be found in Corfu town.Put simply, Corfu hosts a variety ofmusic, dancing, and “socializing”opportunities. See chapter 15.

13 The Best Natural Wonders• The Caves of Dirou (Peloponnese):

No one knows how far these cavesrun into the seaside cliffs of Dirou onthe Peloponnese’s Mani peninsula.You can get some idea of their vast-ness by taking a tour on one of theboats that explore this undergroundlabyrinth. See p. 283.

• Samaria Gorge (Crete): At 18km (11miles) long, the Samaria is the longestgorge in Europe. But although itswalls reach up to 500m (1,640 ft.)and at one point are only 2m (61⁄2 ft.)apart, it’s not the physical dimensionsthat attract thousands each year. Youcan credit the wildflowers, the cold

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stream, and the whole experience ofmaking your way from the heart ofCrete to its coast. See p. 324.

• Santorini Caldera (Cyclades): Asyou approach Santorini by ferry, thewhitewashed cliff-top villages of Iaand Fira resemble at first a new dust-ing of mountain snow. Then the ferryenters the caldera, the cliff walls risesteeply on either side, and you’re sud-denly enclosed in a fantastic bowlwhose sides are formed of red, yellow,and ocher rock and whose surface isthe shimmering blue Aegean. Some3,600 years ago, the center of theisland was blown away in a colossalvolcanic eruption, leaving behind a

roughly circular depression in the seafloor and the crescent-shaped sliver ofrock known as Santorini. The bestplaces to view the caldera are thewalking path between Fira and Ia,and the cliff-top streets in either ofthe two towns. See p. 347.

• Vikos Gorge (Western Greece):With its wooded slopes, often taxingterrain, and rugged riverbed, VikosGorge in Epirus is in many ways atleast as impressive as the far better-known Samaria Gorge of Crete. Itsremoteness means that it is also farless frequented—and that muchmore a wilderness challenge. See p. 530.

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14 The Best Shopping• Traditional Arts & Crafts: So many

places in Greece pride themselves ontheir needlework that it is hard to sin-gle out even a few, but among thosefew would be Crete, Rhodes, andSkyros. Two places in Athens deservemention: The Center of Hellenic Tra-dition (59 Mitropoleos and 36 Pan-drossou) and the National WelfareOrganization (6 Ipatias and Apol-lonos). The Center offers ceramics,woodcarvings, prints—and one ofthe finest views of the Acropolis inAthens. The National Welfare Orga-nization contains hand-loomed rugsand silk embroidery done by villagewomen, as well as excellent copper-work and ceramics.

• Leatherwork: Both Rhodes andCrete feature local leatherwork, fromsandals to handbags, from belts tojackets. Pay attention to quality.

• Furs: Kastoria, in northwesternGreece, is the center of the fur trade,and fur products are everywhere.Athens, of course, sells expensive furcoats. Rhodes also features fur coats.Wherever furs are sold, be sure youknow what you are buying.

• Jewelry: It now seems that half ofGreece’s retail stores sell jewelry, soshop around. Much of it is really nodifferent than what can be found incities all over the world, but Athensdoes have major, internationallyknown jewelers such as LALAoUNISand Zolotas. Try Chania, Crete, forsophisticated local artisans’ work.Islands such as Santorini, Skiathos,and Rhodes have scores of storesappealing to the tourist trade.

• Ceramics: As with needlework, potsand ceramics of all kinds are to befound throughout Greece. Some ofthe more traditional may be found onChios, Crete, Mitilini, Sifnos, andSkopelos.

• Rugs/Weavings: Crete probablyoffers the largest variety of rugs andweavings. Metsovo has some distinc-tive textiles. If you like rag rugs,keep an eye out for kourouloudes onsale at small shops as you travel thePeloponnese.

• Wood: Corfu seems to be the centerof olive wood products—carvingboards, bowls, utensils. Rethymnon,Crete, also has a selection. In the

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Peloponnese, woodcarvings andutensils are often found in the villagesof Arcadia. Chios and Mitilini alsoboast wood-carving traditions.

• Icons and Ecclesiastical Books &Items: On the streets around theGreek Orthodox Cathedral (Metropol-itan) in Athens, you’ll find many shopsselling votive offerings, candles, andreproductions of icons. In Thessa-loniki, Apostolic Diakonta Book-store (& 2310/275-126) has a wideselection of religious items. Many ofthe most important religious shrines,such as Panagia Evangelistria on Tinos,and many convents and monasteries,including most of the Meteora monas-teries, sell reproductions of icons andother religious items. On Crete, thePetrakis couple in Elounda paint inter-nationally sought traditional icons.

• Museum Reproductions: Officiallyapproved, fine replicas of many famousmuseum pieces may be purchased atthe Archaeological, Byzantine, Benaki,Goulandris, and LALAoUNIS muse-ums in Athens; at the Archaeologicaland Byzantine museums in Thessa-loniki; and at official archaeologicalservice stores in Rhodes Old Town andin Rethymnon, Crete.

• Books: Whether you’re looking forbooks about Greece or books forvacation reading, in Athens the placesto go are Eleftheroudakis, Compen-dium, Reymondos, and Folia touBibliou. In Thessaloniki, seek outIanos.

• Natural Products: In the last fewyears, Greece has begun to producesuperb organic and natural products,including olive oil, honey, jams, andcosmetics. Keep an eye out for foodproducts with the Peloponnese, Gaea,Milelia, Nefeli, Yiam, and Staterlabels in groceries and delis. Goodplaces to look in Athens include mostspecialty food shops in Kolonaki, andthe Mesogaia delicatessen in thePlaka section of Athens. Green Farmin Kolonaki sells only organic pro-duce. Korres Natural Products(www.korres.com), including a widerange of herbal shampoos andlotions, and Apivita’s AromatherapyEssential Oils (www.apivita.gr), arenow carried in many pharmacies andcosmetics stores (such as the wide-spread Hondos Centers) throughoutGreece.

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