The Best of Ecuador

Ecuador likes to boast that it is really four distinct destinations: the GalápagosIslands, the Amazon basin, the high Andean Sierra, and the Pacific coast. In fact, it’smuch more. Quito offers up both colonial gems and modern pleasures. Cuenca is yetanother colonial treasure, with the Inca ruins of Ingapirca nearby. You can visit notonly the rainforests of the Amazon basin, but also the cloud forests of Mindo andBellavista, the dry forests of the southern Pacific lowlands, and the high-altitudeparamo of the Central highlands. Active travelers can ride horses on the Andeanplains, or mountain bike down the slopes of active volcanoes. Bird-watchers can addto their list from the more than 1,600 species found here. With so much physical andcultural variety, there are plenty of excellent experiences and adventures for any typeof traveler. Below is a selective list of some of the best that Ecuador has to offer.

1 The Best Purely Ecuadorian Travel Experiences

1

• Stepping Back in Time in ColonialQuito: Founded in 1534, Quito wasthe first city to be declared a WorldHeritage Site by UNESCO. Its OldTown seems in many ways to havechanged little over the centuries. Walkthe rough cobblestone streets and visitthe numerous, beautifully restoredcolonial-era churches, monasteries,convents, private mansions, and pub-lic plazas—you’ll feel as if you’ve trav-eled back in time. See chapter 5.

• Straddling the Equator: The coun-try isn’t called Ecuador for nothing—the equator passes right through it.Don’t miss the chance to have yourphoto taken with one foot in eitherhemisphere. There are several populartourist attractions and marked spotswhere you can do this. My favorite,though, is the new Quitsato Mitaddel Mundo Monument (& 09/9701-133; www.quitsato.org), locatedjust off the highway from Quito toOtavalo. See p. 135.

• Eating Cuy: You’ll see them roastingon spits at little stands along thehighways, or on sidewalks in citiesand towns. You’ll also find them onthe menus of some of Ecuador’s fan-ciest restaurants. It’s guinea pig to meand you. The skin is served crisp andcrackling, and you’ll have to work toget much meat from cuy. But whenit’s good, it’s moist and flavorful. Seerestaurant reviews throughout thebook.

• Searching for the Fountain of Youthin Vilcabamba: The small and iso-lated village of Vilcabamba is said tohave a disproportionately high num-ber of centenarians. Most folks creditthe clean water, air, and living. Whileit may not actually add years to yourlife, this is a great place to come for aquiet getaway with superb scenery.And whether or not there’s any sci-ence behind it, a spa treatment or twoat Madre Tierra (& 07/2640-269;www.madretierra1.com) or Hostería

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The Best of Ecuador

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T H E B E S T P U R E LY E C U A D O R I A N T R AV E L E X P E R I E N C E S 3

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THE BEST OF NATURAL ECUADORThe Beaches West of Atacames 1Cajas National Park 6Cotopaxi National Park 10Cuicocha Lake 13The Galápagos Islands 19Isla de la Plata 3The Rainforests of Ecuador's El Oriente 15

THE BEST OUTDOOR ADVENTURESClimbing Cotopaxi Volcano 9Playing Cowboy or Cowgirl on the High Mountain Paramo 9Scuba Diving in the Galápagos Islands 20Surfing Lonely Waves Along Ecuador's Pacific Coast 2Watching Whales Breach & Breed off the Pacific Coast 4White-Water Rafting & Kayaking 8

THE BEST BIRD-WATCHINGThe Cloud Forests of Mindo and Bellavista 12El Oriente 16The Galápagos Islands 17Podocarpus National Park 5

THE BEST FAMILY DESTINATIONSBaños de Agua Santos 7El Telefériqo & Vulqano Park 14The Galápagos Islands 18Hacienda La Alegría 112019

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Izhcayluma (& 07/2640-095 or 09/9153-419; www.izhcayluma.com)will definitely cure whatever’s ailingyou at the moment. See chapter 8.

• Starting Off Your Day with a Glassof Tree-Tomato Juice: Don’t be putoff by the name, nor think that ittastes anything like a traditionaltomato. A tree tomato (tomate deárbol or tamarillo) is a unique fruitserved just about every which way inEcuador. My favorite is the juice,although you’ll also find tree toma-toes in salads; cooked into jam; orboiled, peeled, sweetened, and servedas dessert.

• Riding on the Roof of a Train Pastthe Devil’s Nose: Earthquakes, land-slides, and volcanic eruptions havewiped out most of the rail-line thatused to connect Quito to Guayaquil.The one remaining operational sec-tion is also one of the most spectacu-lar, a white-knuckle ride of sharpswitchbacks and hairpin turns downthe side of a steep rock mountainaffectionately known as The Devil’sNose. See p. 199.

• Buying a Panama Hat: You shouldn’tleave the country without buying oneof these stylish straw wonders, whichare made in Ecuador, not Panama (for

an explanation, see p. 211). Cuenca iscurrently the primary center for pro-duction of Panama hats; HomeroOrtega P. & Hijos (& 07/2809-000;www.homeroortega.com) is that city’stop manufacturer, and also has shopsin Quito. True aficionados mighteven head to the small towns of Mon-tecristi or Jipijapa to find their specialsuperfino headpiece. See chapter 8.

• Drinking Chicha: Homebrewedliquor made from fermenting corn,potatoes, yuca, and just about any-thing else on hand, chicha is consumedby indigenous peoples throughoutthe Andean highlands as well as inthe lowland forests of El Oriente.Most chicha is relatively mild, but ifyou drink enough of it you’ll defi-nitely feel its effects—especially athigh altitudes. See chapters 7 and 11.

• Taking a Tour through the Amazonwith an Indian Chief: Born to mis-sionary parents and reared among theCofán people of Ecuador’s Amazonbasin, Randy Borman is the tribe’sofficial chief. He’ll guide you on amultiday tour through the Cofánlands and villages, and you’ll learnabout and experience Cofán tradi-tions, skills, cuisine, and culture. Seep. 305.

C H A P T E R 1 . T H E B E S T O F E C U A D O R4

2 The Best of Natural EcuadorWith natural delights ranging from theGalápagos Islands to snowcapped volcanicpeaks, and from Amazon lowland rain-forests to high Andean paramo, Ecuadoris a naturalist’s wonderland. Whether ornot you want to hike or climb, bird-watchor simply admire the innate beauty, you’llfind plenty of natural wonder here.

• Cuicocha Lake: Formed thousandsof years ago in the extinct crater of amassive volcano, this beautiful, clearblue lake is a popular destination.You can choose between hikingaround the rim of the crater, or

scrambling down for a boat ride onthe waters of the lake. The lake isnamed after the popular dish cuy(guinea pig), because locals thoughtthe islands in its center resembledguinea pigs. See p. 146.

• Cotopaxi National Park: Compris-ing 33,393 hectares (82,480 sq. miles)surrounding the park’s namesake andemblematic volcano, this is Ecuador’smost popular national park, after theGalápagos. At 5,897m (19,348 ft.),the snow-covered Cotopaxi is thecountry’s second highest peak, and

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allegedly the highest active volcano inthe world. Tour options here rangefrom leisure hikes at lower elevations,to full-on summit climbs, with arange of other options, from moun-tain biking to horseback riding tocamping. The best general tour oper-ators running trips to Cotopaxi areMetropolitan Touring (& 02/2988-200; www.metropolitan-touring.com);and Surtrek (& 02/2231-534; www.surtrek.com). For hard-core climbingand adventures, try Cotopaxi.com(& 02/2909-640; www.cotopaxi.com) or Safari Ecuador (& 02/2222-505; www.safari.com.ec). See chap-ters 4 and 7.

• Cajas National Park: Located justoutside Cuenca, this beautiful nationalpark is famous for its 232 high mon-tane lakes and misty cloud forests. It isalso an excellent place for hiking andbird-watching. Easily accessible, it’s agreat change of pace from the cobble-stone streets, colonial-era churches,and Panama hat shops of Cuenca. Seep. 219.

• Isla de la Plata: The crowning jewelof Machalilla National Park is Islade la Plata, an offshore island oftentouted as “the poor man’s Galápagos.”Whether or not that’s an appropriateor even worthy moniker, Isla de laPlata offers excellent bird and wildlifeviewing and snorkeling. What’s more,late June through early October, youhave the good chance of seeing hump-back whales on the boat ride out tothe island. On land, Machalilla hassome fabulous trails and beaches. Seechapter 9.

• The Beaches West of Atacames: Ingeneral, Ecuador is not a great beach

destination. It certainly can’t hold acandle to beaches found in theCaribbean, South Pacific, or evenMexico or Costa Rica. However, therelatively short section of Pacific coastwest of Atacames has several smalland beautiful beaches. Sua and Sameare my favorites, but Atacames itself,as well as Tonsupa, Tonchigue, andGalera, are also pretty. And for some-place really unique and isolated, youcan head to the small island ofMuisne. See chapter 10.

• The Rainforests of Ecuador’s ElOriente: When Amazon rainforestsare mentioned, most people think ofBrazil. But Ecuador’s El Oriente is avast area of lowland tropical rainfor-est that is part of the Amazon basinwhich feeds and forms the AmazonRiver. In fact, Francisco Orellana,who first named and navigated theAmazon River, began his long jour-ney here in Ecuador. Over 500species of birds and some 15,000species of flora can be found here, aswell as fresh-water dolphins, 11 dif-ferent species of monkeys, anacondas,caimans, and jaguars. See chapter 11.

• The Galápagos Islands: Ecuador’sprime attraction is a naturalist’s para-dise. In fact, if we were talking reli-gion, this would be Holy Ground. Itwas here that Charles Darwin devel-oped many of his ideas that wouldlater emerge as the Theory of NaturalSelection and the Theory of Evolution.Not only are the Galápagos famousfor their wildlife—on land, in the sea,and in the air—but this unique andisolated volcanic archipelago is aunique living geology laboratory. Seechapter 12.

T H E B E S T H I S TO R I C A L S I T E S & M U S E U M S 5

3 The Best Historical Sites & MuseumsFrom the ruins and relics left behindby pre-Columbian peoples to the ornatecolonial-era churches, monasteries, and

convents built by the Spanishconquistadors—not to mention the workof iconic Ecuadorian artist Oswaldo

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Guayasamín—Ecuador contains a wealthof fascinating historical sites and muse-ums.

• Iglesia de San Francisco (Old Town;Quito): Quito’s first church, SanFrancisco remains one of its mostimpressive, especially when you factorin the attached monastery, museum,massive altar, and wide stairwayascending from the plaza. The churchand its ornate interior are in themidst of a major restoration, whichshould only make this classic, colo-nial-era church that much moreimpressive. See p. 118.

• La Compañía de Jesús (Old Town;Quito): There’s so much gold andgold leaf adorning this unbelievablyornate 17th-century baroque churchthat I often feel the need for sun-glasses. In fact, the Jesuits who builtthis church incorporated several sunsymbols, which some say was a nodto the Incas who preceded them onthis spot. The level of detail andartistry on display here is unparal-leled. See p. 120.

• Museo Nacional del Banco Centraldel Ecuador (New Town; Quito):Ecuador’s largest museum is alsoarguably its best. The anthropologicaland historical displays of the pre-Columbian inhabitants are extensive,interesting, and beautifully displayed.There are also very good collectionsof colonial-era and religious art, aswell as a fine representation ofEcuador’s best modern art and artists.See p. 122.

• Fundación Guayasamín (Bellavista,Quito): Oswaldo Guayasamín wasEcuador’s greatest and most famousmodern artist. His striking largepaintings, murals, and sculptures hadan impact on artists across LatinAmerica and around the world.This extensive museum displays bothhis own work and pieces from his

collection. Combined with the neigh-boring Capilla del Hombre, this is amust-see for any art lover or LatinAmerican history buff. See p. 123.

• Catedral Nueva (Cuenca): This mas-sive cathedral took over 80 years tocomplete. Its two towering bluedomes dominate the skyline ofCuenca, especially when viewed fromone of the hillside lookouts outsidetown. Don’t miss a chance to tour itsbeautiful inside, which has whitemarble floors, stained-glass windows,and a Renaissance-style main altar.See p. 207.

• Museo del Banco Central (Cuenca;& 07/2831-255): This modernmuseum features an excellent collec-tion of archaeological finds and relics,ethnographic displays, and colonial-era figurative and religious art; it’salso built right on top of a major Incaceremonial site that has been semi-excavated. As if that weren’t enough,there are extensive botanical gardenshere, a small aviary, and llamas roam-ing the grounds. See p. 208.

• Ingapirca (outside of Cuenca):Ingapirca is the greatest survivingInca ruin in Ecuador. A visit here willallow you to appreciate the famousInca masonry, with its seeminglyimpossibly tight joints. Even beforethe Incas arrived, this spot was inhab-ited by the Cañari, and some of theiroriginal constructions are also on dis-play. The site is believed to have beensacred to both the Cañari and Incas.See p. 220.

• La Tolita (North Pacific coast): Thisunique archaeological site is found ona small island outside San Lorenzo. Itis believed to have been inhabited byone of the oldest pre-Columbian cul-tures, a people skilled at working withgold, silver, and even platinum. Onewhole beach here contains millions ofshards of ancient pottery. See p. 290.

C H A P T E R 1 . T H E B E S T O F E C U A D O R6

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• Museo Antropológico y de ArteContemporáneo (Guayaquil; & 04/2327-402): Large, modern, and welllaid out, this is Guayaquil’s bestmuseum. There are extensive archae-ological collections here from allover Ecuador, as well as a wonderfulwing dedicated to contemporary

Ecuadorian art. One of the best fea-tures of this museum is its prizedlocation at the northern end ofGuayaquil’s Malecón 2000, allowingeasy access (before and/or after) toboth the popular riverside boardwalkand neighboring Cerro Santa Ana.See p. 240.

T H E B E S T O U T D O O R A D V E N T U R E S 7

4 The Best Outdoor AdventuresEcuador’s varied landscape, ecosystems,and natural wonders make it a prime des-tination for adventure travelers, withopportunities to participate in a widerange of adventure sports and activities.

• Climbing Volcán Cotopaxi:Although it’s actually only the secondhighest peak in the country, Cotopaxiis Ecuador’s most coveted summit. At5,897m (19,348 ft.), this is noleisurely climb, yet most people inreasonably good condition, with theproper guides and acclimation, canreach the top. The views on the wayup, at the summit, and coming backdown are spectacular. Cotopaxi.com(& 02/2909-640; www.cotopaxi.com) and Safari Ecuador (& 02/2222-505; www.safari.com.ec) aretwo excellent operators who can getyou to the snowcapped summit. Seechapters 4 and 7.

• Playing Cowboy or Cowgirl on theHigh Mountain Paramo: In Ecuador,cowboys are called chagras, and thechagra tradition is alive and well.Whether you sign on for a short ride oractually get to join in a round-up ofwild bulls or horses, you’ll feel like achagra as you ride your steed over therugged scrub of the high Andeanparamo. Hacienda La Alegría (& 02/2462-319; www.haciendaalegria.com)offers multiday rides. See chapters 4and 7.

• Watching Whales Breach & Breedoff the Pacific Coast: From late Juneto early October, humpback whales

congregate in large numbers offEcuador’s Pacific coast. They come tothe warmer waters from Antarctica tomate, give birth, feed, and nurse theiryoung. The whales here are verysocial, and often give spectacular dis-plays of breaching. Whale-watchingtours are offered up and down thiscoastline, but Salinas and PuertoLópez are your best bases for settingout on a whale-watching excursion.See chapter 9.

• Surfing Lonely Waves along Ecua-dor’s Pacific Coast: Surfers love iso-lated or undiscovered breaks, andEcuador is loaded with them. In fact,even the most crowded breaks herecould be considered deserted by Cal-ifornia standards. Beach and pointbreaks can be found up and down thePacific coast. Montañita and Canoaare the country’s top surfing destina-tions, and good bases to use for yoursearch for the perfect wave. See chap-ters 4, 9, and 10.

• White-Water Rafting & Kayaking:With high Andean peaks plungingdown to coastal lowlands in twodirections, Ecuador is blessed with ahost of white-water rivers perfect forrafting and kayaking. The small townof Tena, in El Oriente, is the country’shot spot for these sports, with easyaccess to everything from Class IIIto Class V rapids. The most popularrivers are the Upper Napo, or RíoJatunyacu, and the Río Misahuallí.There are also opportunities accessible

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from Quito and other cities aroundthe country. Ríos Ecuador (& 06/2886-727; www.riosecuador.com) is an excellent operator withoffices in both Tena and Quito. Seechapters 4 and 11.

• Scuba Diving in the GalápagosIslands: While most visitors spendtheir time marveling at the turtles,iguanas, boobies, and finches, divingthe Galápagos may just provide thearchipelago’s most rewarding wildlife-viewing opportunities. The rich and

protected waters here are home tolarge quantities of sealife, fromschools of hammerhead sharks, tomanta rays, to large masses of jacks,barracuda, and other schooling fish.Lucky divers enjoy playful encounterswith sea lions and penguins. Yourbest bet for enjoying the diving is tosign up for a cruise on a dedicateddive boat. You can also book divetrips out of Puerto Ayora or PuertoBaquerizo Moreno. See chapters 4and 12.

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5 The Best Bird-WatchingEcuador is home to some 1,600 species ofresident and migratory birds. With such awide range in ecosystems, altitude, ter-rain, and habitat, you’ll have to travelaround the country some to get a fullsense of the diversity. Many of the popu-lar birding destinations in Ecuador havespecies counts well over 300 to 400.Below, I list some of the top bird-watch-ing spots. See chapter 4, and the individ-ual destinations, for more information.

• Enjoying the Mists and Multitudeof Species Found in the CloudForests of Mindo & Bellavista:Cloud forests are unique ecosystems,renowned for their biological abun-dance. Located under 2 hours northof Quito, the cloud forests of Mindoand Bellavista are rich and rewardingstops for birders and nature lovers ofall stripes. Over 400 species of birdshave been recorded here, and expertsbelieve the actual count is muchhigher. El Monte (& 09/3084-675;www.ecuadorcloudforest.com) andBellavista Cloud Forest Reserve(& 02/2116-232; www.bellavistacloudforest.com) are two excellentlodges from which to base your bird-watching expeditions of this area. Seep. 136, as well as chapter 4.

• Spotting Some of the More Than600 Species in Podocarpus National

Park: This remote national park runsfrom a high of 3,700m (11,811 ft.)down to some 1,000m (3,281 ft.)above sea level, and contains ecosys-tems that range from high paramo tocloud forest and rainforest. The mostcommon jumping-off points for visit-ing here are Loja and Vilcabamba. Ifyou’re looking for an excellent per-sonal guide, contact Jorge Luis atCaminatas Andes Sureños (& 07/2673-147) See p. 227.

• Catching Sight of Hundreds ofSpecies in El Oriente: The mid-elevation and lowland rainforests ofEcuador’s El Oriente are prime bird-watching areas. Many lodges in thisregion have on-site bird-species liststhat number 400 or more. Severalspecies of macaws frolic overhead,while the prehistoric hoatzin inhab-its the low branches of riversidetrees. Just about any of the lodgesin El Oriente can be considered topbird-watching destinations, but I rec-ommend the Napo Wildlife Center(www.napowildlifecenter.com), whichhas a couple of parrot licks right ontheir grounds, where as many as sev-eral thousand mixed flock parrotsmay gather on any day to extract min-erals and nutrients from an exposedclay river bank. See chapter 11.

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• Seeing Endemic Species on theGalápagos Islands: What can yousay? From the 13 species of Darwin’sfinches, to the only subtropical pen-guin, to the unique flightless cor-morant, the Galápagos provide the

greatest one-stop spot to check off awhole host of once-in-a-lifetime birdsfrom your life’s list. In fact, aroundhalf of all the bird fauna on the Galá-pagos is endemic, meaning you canonly see them here. See chapter 12.

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6 The Best Destinations for Families• El Telefériqo & Vulqano Park

(Quito; & 02/3250-076; www.teleferiqo.com): If you spend anytime in Quito, and if you have kids intown, this is a must-stop. The fastand thrilling ride up the mountain inthis cable-car gondola is usuallyenough to put a smile on most kids’faces, and there’s also an amusementpark (Vulqano Park) at the base of thecable car. See p. 118.

• Hacienda La Alegría (Aloag; & 02/2462-319; www.haciendalaalegria.com): This beautiful old hacienda isalso a working farm. Kids can watchand even lend a hand when the cowsare milked. Horseback riding is thespecialty, and they have particularlygood horses, trails, and trainers forintroducing young riders to the sport.Their safety concern and record areexemplary. See p. 171.

• Baños de Agua Santa: While bestknown as a backpacker and adven-ture-travel hot spot, Baños is alsogreat for kids. Vacationing Ecuado-rian families come here, and many ofthe hotels and resorts cater to fami-lies. Sangay Spa-Hotel (& 03/2740-490; www.sangayspahotel.com) has aton of excellent facilities and activitiesgeared towards all ages. See chapter 7.

• The Galápagos Islands: Many of theGalápagos cruise ships and tour com-panies offer specific family-orientedtours. There is tons to see and do, andplenty of science, nature, and adven-ture to keep the whole family inter-ested and entertained. Tauck (& 800/788-7885 in the U.S. andCanada; www.tauck.com) is an excel-lent soft-adventure company withdistinctive family package tours tothe Galápagos. See chapter 12.

7 The Best Luxury Hotels• JW Marriott Hotel (Quito; & 800/

228-9290 in the U.S. and Canada,or 02/2972-000 in Ecuador; www.marriotthotels.com): With an impos-ing glass-atrium-covered lobby, gor-geous rooms, attentive service, andgood restaurants, this is the best largeluxury hotel not only in Quito but inall of Ecuador. The pool, spa, andrecreational facilities are excellent, asare the business services. See p. 103.

• Plaza Grande (Quito; & 02/2566-497; www.plazagrandequito.com):One of Quito’s newest hotels ishoused in an old classic-colonial

home that was once the residence ofone of the city’s founding fathers.The meticulous restoration here iscomplemented by over-the-top lux-ury and personalized service. In addi-tion to that you will be sleeping inthe heart of Old Town, right off thePlaza de la Independencia (PlazaGrande). See p. 107.

• Hotel Dann Carlton (Quito; & 02/2249-008; www.hotelesdann.com):The Dann Carlton is in many waystwo hotels in one, combining theambience and attention of a smallboutique hotel with all the amenities,

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facilities, and services of a luxury busi-ness-class hotel. Higher-floor roomshave excellent views. See p. 109.

• La Mirage Garden Hotel & Spa(Cotacachi; & 800/327-3573 in theU.S. and Canada, or 06/2915-237;www.mirage.com.ec): Arguably themost exclusive and opulent boutiquehotel in the country, La Mirage offersrefined accommodations, fine dining,and a spectacular spa. If that’s notenough, a range of excellent hikesand adventure activities is available,and Otavalo is just a few minutesaway. See p. 151.

• Luna Runtun (outside of Baños deAgua Santa; & 03/2740-882 or 03/2740-665; www.lunaruntun.com):With a breathtaking setting in theshadow of Volcán Tungurahua, thisluxury spa offers up relaxations andrejuvenation, as well as a full plate ofadventure activities and tours. Theviews from the rooms and suites arespectacular, and the spa here is one ofthe best in the country. See p. 191.

• Hilton Colón Guayaquil (Guaya-quil; & 800/445-8667 in the U.S.and Canada, or 04/2689-000 inEcuador; www.guayaquil.hilton.com):Guayaquil gets a lot of business trav-elers and hordes of folks overnight-ing on their way to and from theGalápagos Islands; this is the tophotel in town. The large rooms arewell-appointed and some have goodviews. There are plenty of restaurantand nightlife options here, includ-ing a modern casino, and the hotelprovides easy access to both the air-port and downtown Guayaquil. Seep. 243.

• Royal Palm Hotel (Santa CruzIsland, Galápagos; & 05/2527-409;www.royalpalmgalapagos.com): Thisis the most luxurious hotel on theGalápagos, and one of the plushest inthe whole country. Every room hereis gorgeous, but you’ll want to splurgeand get either a villa or a suite. Seep. 346.

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8 The Best Moderately Priced & Budget Hotels• Hotel Vieja Cuba (Quito; & 02/

2906-729; viejacuba@andinanet.net):Beautifully restored and wonderfullylocated, this Mariscal-district hotelprovides great value. Hardwoodfloors, mosaic-tile bathrooms, a cen-tral courtyard fountain, and an excel-lent restaurant are just some of theperks. See p. 105.

• Hotel San Francisco de Quito(Quito; & 02/2287-758; www.sanfranciscodequito.com.ec): Offeringtidy and comfortable rooms in awonderfully preserved 17th-centuryconverted home, this is my favoritebudget option in Quito. This hotel issituated in the heart of Old Town.You get colonial charm and a greatdeal all in one. See p. 108.

• Hacienda Guachala (Cangahua,Cayambe; & 02/2363-042; www.guachala.com): Dating back to 1580,this rustic old hacienda provides allthe colonial-era vibe and experienceoffered up by its more fancy brethren,at very reasonable prices. Granted,the rooms are quite rustic, but you’llhave the undeniable feeling of stayingat what was once a thriving colonial-era hacienda. A host of tours andactivities are available, including anumber of horseback-riding adven-tures. See p. 152.

• Finca Chamanapamba (Baños deAgua Santa; & 03/2742-671; www.chamanapamba.com): With a per-fect setting, awe-inspiring views,neighboring Chamana waterfall, and

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comfortable accommodations, this isan excellent choice in the Baños area.I particularly like the waterfall-viewbalconies found around the grounds.The owners can arrange a numberof tour and adventure options. Seep. 192.

• Posada del Angel (Cuenca; & 07/2840-695; &/fax 07/2821-360; www.hostalposadadelangel.com): It’s hard tobelieve you can find such a charmingroom in such a charming convertedold colonial home for such a bargain.The building is over 120-years old, yetthe place is lively and cheery. There area couple of classic interior courtyards,and second floor lounge areas. If youwant more privacy, and a bit of a view,ask for a room on the third or fourthfloor. See p. 215.

• Hostería Alándaluz (south of PuertoLópez; & 04/2780-686; www.

alandaluzhosteria.com): An environ-mentally conscious and eclectic col-lection of rooms and bungalows on abeautiful spot along the Pacific coast,this is one of my favorite beach hotelsin all of Ecuador. Rooms come in awide range of styles and prices, fromsemi-rustic doubles to almost opulentsuites. Even the least expensive optionsare quite nice. Heck, you can evencamp here. See p. 261.

• Hotel Sol y Mar (Puerto Ayora, IslaSanta Cruz; & 05/2526-139): Whenyou can score an ocean-front roomwith a balcony on the GalápagosIslands for under $50 (£25), youknow you’ve found a good deal.Accommodations here have tastefuldecor, and the common areas arewonderfully inviting. See p. 348.

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8 The Best Ecolodges & HaciendasTwo distinct, yet in some ways similar,lodging options in Ecuador are small,converted old haciendas and isolatedecolodges. While the haciendas tend to belocated on the high Andean plains, theecolodges are mostly found in the Ori-ente or the Amazon basin. Both tend tobe small and isolated, and nature-viewingand active adventure activities are theorder of the day.

• Hacienda Cusín (San Pablo delLago, Otavalo; & 06/2918-013;www.haciendacusin.com): This 17th-century hacienda was sold originallyat auction in Spain by King Phillip II.It’s located just outside of Otavalo,beside the pretty San Pablo Lake.Accommodations, food, and serviceare all top-draw, and the surroundinggardens and volcano views are delight-ful. See p. 150.

• Hacienda Zuleta (Angochahua,Imbabura; & 02/2228-554; www.zuleta.com): With sprawling grounds;

a working cheese, cattle, and horsefarm; and the largest original entranceplaza of any hacienda in Ecuador, thisplace exudes authenticity. Once thehome of President Galo Plaza, andstill in his family, the hacienda offerswonderful and comfortable rooms,tasty family-style meals, and a host oftour options. Horseback riding isexcellent here. They also have a con-dor rescue project on their grounds.See p. 154.

• Black Sheep Inn (Chugchilán,Cotopaxi; & 03/2814-587; www.blacksheepinn.com): This isolatedhigh-altitude eco-lodge is built on ahillside overlooking a beautiful rivercanyon. Situated about midwayalong the famed Quilotoa Loop, thisis hands-down the best place to staywhile taking part in the hiking, bik-ing, trekking, and other adventuresavailable in this pretty and pristinearea. See p. 178.

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• Hacienda Leito (outside Patate,Baños; & 03/2859-328; www.haciendaleito.com): This isolatedhacienda provides a fabulous mix ofold and new. The original ranchbuilding, with its original cobble-stone driveway, central fountain, andantique artworks and furnishings, is aclassic example of a colonial-Spanishhacienda. But the brand-new andextensive spa, up-to-date rooms, andfree Wi-Fi let you know you’re in the21st century. See p. 183.

• Hacienda San Augustín de Callo(Lasso, Cotopaxi; &/fax 02/2906-157; www.incahacienda.com): Mypick for the most unique hacienda inEcuador, this place is built inside theruins of both an Inca palace and acolonial-era monastery. Some of therooms here have walls laid by Incamasons, with their distinctive stonework. All are stunning and unique,with artistic touches that range fromhand-painted murals to workingstone fireplaces. See p. 170.

• Hostería La Andaluza (Chuquip-ogyo, Chimborazo; & 03/2949-370;www.la-andaluzaec.com): Located onthe outskirts of Riobamba, in theshadow of Chimborazo peak, thisconverted old hacienda is the besthotel for many miles around. Arelaxed and cozy vibe and colonial-era authenticity are prevalent. Therestaurant here is excellent, and anumber of activities are available. Seep. 200.

• Kashama (outside of Santo Domingode los Colorados; & 02/2773-193;

www.kashama.com): This is a beauti-ful and relaxing jungle lodge and spaset on the shores of the Río Blanco.Creative design elements and artytouches abound. The inviting poolfeatures a tall, sculpted waterfall, andthe excellent spa here offers a widerange of treatments and cures. Allsorts of tours and adventures are alsooffered. See p. 298.

• Napo Wildlife Center (lower RíoNapo; &/fax 02/2897-316; www.napowildlifecenter.com): Run as ajoint venture with the local AñanguQuichua community, this, like Kapawi(see below), is one of the top ecolodgesin the Amazon basin. The 10 lakefrontbungalows are rustically luxurious, andthe guides, food, and service aresuperb. Tours and adventures areoffered, including visits to local indige-nous communities and tours of therivers, lagoons, and creeks of this low-land rainforest region. See p. 312.

• Kapawi Ecolodge & Reserve (onthe Río Pastaza; & 800/613-6026 inthe U.S. and Canada, or 04/228-5711 in Ecuador; www.kapawi.com):This pioneering ecolodge is locateddeep in the Amazon rainforest amongthe villages of the Achuar tribe. Youcan only reach Kapawi on a privatecharter flight, and the isolation is partof the charm. Beautiful cabins (builton stilts over a black-water lagoon),great food, and fantastic guides don’thurt, either. This place provides atop-notch Amazon rainforest experi-ence. See p. 322.

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10 The Best Bed-and-Breakfasts & Small Inns• Mansión del Angel (Quito; & 800/

327-3573 in the U.S., or 02/2557-721 in Quito; www.mansiondelangel.com.ec): With crystal chande-liers, Oriental rugs, and four-poster

beds, this boutique hotel offers all theelegance and style of a bygone era, inthe heart of Quito’s New Town.Located steps away from the bustleand blur of all the restaurants and

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clubs of the Mariscal district, thisplace is a quiet and calm oasis inside.See p. 104.

• Hotel Café Cultura (Quito; &/fax02/2224-271; www.cafecultura.com):Hip and European in feel, this cozyMariscal hotel features unique, artis-tically designed and decorated rooms,an excellent restaurant, and super serv-ice. Hand-painted murals abound,and many of the bathrooms are worksof art in themselves. See p. 104.

• Hotel Santa Lucía (Cuenca; & 07/2828-000; www.santaluciahotel.com): Set right in the heart of colo-nial Cuenca, in a house that dates to1859, this is one of the best boutiquehotels in Ecuador. The colonial vibeis maintained throughout, but therooms also feature plasma-screen tel-evisions and free Wi-Fi. The centralcourtyard here is home to a toweringmagnolia tree, as well as an excellentrestaurant. See p. 214.

• Mansión Alcázar (Cuenca; & 800/327-3573 toll-free in the U.S. andCanada, or 07/2823-918 in Ecuador;

www.mansionalcazar.com): Like theSanta Lucía (above), this charminglittle hotel is housed in a remarkablywell-restored old colonial mansion.The Alcázar has a pretty garden andseveral sumptuous sitting areas andlounges. See p. 213.

• Madre Tierra (Vilcabamba; & 07/2640-269 or 09/3096-665; www.madretierra1.com): This fun, funky,and arty little hotel is a great retreat.The accommodations, featuring cre-ative design touches, are all unique.There are stunning views from manyof the rooms as well as from the com-mon areas, and the hearty, healthycuisine here is legendary. See p. 231.

• Vistalmar (Manta; & 05/2621-671;www.vistalmarecuador.com): Fromthe two large jade horses near theentrance to the large Buddha sculp-ture in the main lounge area, you’ll bestruck at every turn by the art, sculp-ture, and decor here. When that stopspiquing your interest, you can marvelat the ocean views from the hillsideperch. See p. 275.

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11 The Best Restaurants• Café Mosaico (Quito; & 02/2542-

871): With an eclectic menu, con-vivial ambience, and outstandingview over Old Town Quito, the CaféMosaico is a must-visit spot. Come abit before sunset and hopefully you’llbe able to snag a table with a view. Itgets very crowded here, and for goodreason. See p. 113.

• El Nispero (Quito; & 02/2226-398): While Ecuadorian cuisine istasty enough, this upscale place takesthe traditional fare and, in the wordsof a famous TV chef, “kicks themup a notch.” Traditional dishes andingredients are treated to creativepreparations and pairings, althoughthe chef never strays too far from hissource. See p. 114.

• Zazu (Quito; & 02/2543-559):Brash and bold, Quito’s hippest newrestaurant is also one of its most sat-isfying. The Peruvian-born chef useshis native sensibility, fresh local ingre-dients, and ample imagination to cre-ate a consistently successful string ofnew and exciting dishes. Just abouteverything on the menu shines, butmy favorite way to dine here is totrust the chef and sign on for hisnightly tasting menu. See p. 114.

• Hotel Ali Shungu (Otavalo; & 06/2920-750): Housed inside a popularhotel, this is my favorite restaurant inOtavalo. The healthy and creativeinternational cuisine is served in a cozyand inviting ambience. Locally grownorganic produce is used wherever

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possible. This is a welcome treat forbreakfast, lunch, or dinner. See p. 149.

• Café Hood (Baños de Agua Santa;& 03/2740-573): A popular back-packer hangout, this cozy restaurantserves everything from Mexican bur-ritos to Pad Thai, with a wide rangeof international and vegetarian dishesfilling out the long menu. After eat-ing you can browse the book-swaplibrary, play a board game, or minglewith fellow travelers. See p. 193.

• Villa Rosa (Cuenca; & 07/2837-944): Excellent Ecuadorian cuisine ismatched with an elegant setting andsuperb service in this Cuenca restau-rant. Although traditional Ecuado-rian dishes are the mainstay here,they often are given little twists andturns that set them above what you’llfind at most other local joints. Thisplace is almost always busy—and it’sclosed on most weekend evenings—so reservations are essential. Seep. 217.

• Lo Nuestro (Guayaquil; & 04/2386-398): Elegant and relaxed, this is thebest place in Guayaquil to enjoy clas-sic Ecuadorian cooking in a refined

setting. The restaurant is located a lit-tle outside downtown, but it’s defi-nitely worth the ride. See p. 246.

• Sea Flower Restaurant (Same; & 06/2733-369): It’s almost worth a trip toEcuador’s Pacific coast just to dine atthis delightful spot. Presentations areeye-catching, and the food servedlives up to the fanfare. Be sure to havea reservation—this place fills up fast.See p. 294.

• The Marquis Restaurant (Tena;& 06/2886-513): You’ll be as sur-prised as I was to find a relatively finedining experience in such a remoteand rural town. Grilled meats are thespecialty here, and the restaurantdoes an excellent job with them. Thenightly three-course prix-fix menu isan excellent deal. See p. 318.

• La Garrapata Restaurante (PuertoAyora; & 05/2526-264): Good foodand a relaxed ambience are whatyou’ll find at what’s probably themost popular restaurant on the Galá-pagos. You’re just steps from theocean, and the seafood here is excel-lent. On weekends there’s often livemusic. See p. 349.

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12 The Best Shopping & MarketsEcuador is renowned for its artisans andtheir craftsmanship. Woven products,made from sheep, alpaca, or even vicuñawool, are perhaps the most well known,but a wide range of arts and crafts is pro-duced. The indigenous tribes of El Ori-ente weave bags and baskets and makeornamental jewelry from local products,while craftspeople and artists producehigh-end art, silver jewelry, and superfinoPanama hats in Cuenca.

• Olga Fisch Folklore (Quito; & 02/2541-315; www.olgafisch.com): OlgaFisch was a pioneer in recognizing andpromoting the artistry of Ecuador’sartisans and craftspeople. She helped

them refine and improve some oftheir designs. Today her shop-galleryremains the top place to go for thebest selection of high-end products.You’ll find everything here, fromclothing to ceramics to paintings. Youcan get chess sets, with pieces carvedfrom tagua nuts, or fine, one-off sil-ver and gemstone jewelry. See p. 126.

• Tianguez (Quito; & 02/2230-609;www.sinchisacha.org): Housed in amazelike series of rooms that feel likecatacombs under the San Franciscochurch, this is my favorite place toshop for handicrafts. Just about everycorner and region of the country isrepresented here, with pieces from

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the various Amazon basin indigenoustribes, as well as primitive paintingsfrom artisans of the central Sierra.You can buy trinkets for next to noth-ing, or fine works that will make adent in your wallet. See p. 126.

• Otavalo Market (Otavalo): This isthe most famous market in Ecuador,and perhaps in all of South America.Indeed, it’s the place to come for allsorts of locally made crafts, includingalpaca sweaters, rugs, and wall hang-ings, as well as a wide range of woodwork, primitive paintings, and jew-elry. Musicians can pick up some panpipes or a charango. See p. 144.

• San Antonio de Ibarra: It seems as ifeveryone in this little town inImbabura province is a woodcarver.Many of the works produced here arereligious in theme, and often of mon-umental proportion. Still, you can get

plenty of decorative and functionalpieces, and some that are easy enoughto carry home with you (the otherscan be shipped). See chapter 6.

• Cuenca: From Panama hats to locallyproduced handicrafts, fine art works,and one-off jewelry, Cuenca holds itsown against Quito and Otavalo as oneof the top shopping cities in the coun-try. Of particular interest are the vis-its to the actual Panama hat factoriesand the studio of renowned ceramicartist Eduardo Vega. See chapter 8.

• Galápagos Jewelry (Puerto Ayora;& 05/2526-044; www.galapagosjewelry.com): These folks have excel-lent one-off pieces, many in the shapeand image of local flora and fauna.Cast silver is their strong suit, butthey also work with stones and othermetals. They also have a couple ofoutlets in Quito. See p. 345.

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13 The Best After-Dark Fun• Mariscal District (Quito): The 4-

to 5-square-block area known asMariscal, in the heart of Quito’s NewTown, is chock-full of bars, clubs,discos, and restaurants. It’s busy hereevery night of the week, but espe-cially Thursday through Saturday.Consider starting off on the PlazaFoch with a pub crawl, but be carefuland use common sense, becausecrime against tourists is not unheardof here. See p. 130.

• Baños de Agua Santa: As befits abustling backpacker and adventure-tourist town, Baños has a rockingnightlife. If the rumblings of VolcánTungurahua keep you up at nightshere, stroll down Calle Eloy Alfaro,where you’ll find a string of bars,clubs, discos, and peñas. See p. 185.

• Café Eucalyptus (Cuenca; & 07/2849-157): Great tapas, an excellentwine list, locally produced tap beer,and top-notch call liquors combine

with a warm and welcoming ambi-ence to make this hands-down thetop after-dark gathering spot inCuenca. I like the couch seating nearthe fireplace, but the bar is also agood place to settle in. Or, if you’relooking for a little more privacy, headto the second floor. See p. 217.

• Montañita (South Pacific coast): Inaddition to their prowess on the sea,surfers are legendary for their après-surf sessions. Montañita is the topsurfer town in Ecuador, and the rau-cous nightlife it has is fed by the floodof local and international surfers. Seep. 254.

• Puerto Ayora (Galápagos): PuertoAyora has a surprisingly lively, albeitlimited, nightlife and bar scene.Bongo Bar (& 05/2526-264) is themost happening place in town atnight. It’s located on a rooftop andopens at 4pm but usually doesn’t getbusy until after 8pm. See p. 349.

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C H A P T E R 1 . T H E B E S T O F E C U A D O R16

14 The Best Websites about Ecuador• Latin America Network Informa-

tion Center (http://lanic.utexas.edu/la/Ecuador): This site contains a col-lection of diverse information aboutEcuador. It’s hands-down the bestplace for Web browsing, with helpfullinks to a wide range of tourism andgeneral-information sites.

• Vive Ecuador (www.vivecuador.com):This is the official website of theEcuadorian Ministry of Tourism.There’s a lot of information here,although much of it is quite basic and

the format can be hard to navigate attimes.

• Ecuador.US (www.ecuador.us): Thisis a large and comprehensive tourismEnglish-language site, with loads ofuseful information, history, and links.

• Quito Cultura (www.quitocultura.com): Although this site is in Span-ish, it’s the place to go to find outwhat concerts, art exhibits, and cul-tural activities and events are happen-ing in Quito.

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