THAT OLD SAYING “MAY YOU LIVEIN INTERESTING TIMES” is especiallyapt when applied to the world ofdrinks, where there’s never been asmuch innovation on tap as there istoday. Drinks infused with localflavours celebrate their origins likenever before, often reflecting broadersocietal trends such as healthier,zero-waste lifestyles and the wideruse of cannabis. Here are a few ofthe drink trends worth watching, andtasting, this summer.

WASTE NOT

The movement toward creating lesswaste has caused a wave of in-novation in the drinks industry, asproducers look for ways to repurposefood waste in all its forms. Grocerystores are starting to sell substandardfruits and vegetables at a discountunder the Naturally Imperfect banner.Brewers are starting to think aboutrepurposing surplus food much like

to develop the distilling process thattakes milk permeate and turns it intoa very drinkable spirit named Vod-kow. Milk permeate is the liquidwaste that’s left behind from milkafter the fats and proteins are re-moved to make cheese, ice creamand butter. For farmers, this processrelieves them from having to man-age the waste while generating abeneficial revenue stream, especiallyvaluable in these times of tariff-driventrade wars.

“It’s a way of turning trash intocash,” Sismondo says, “but it’s alsosolving a big waste problem, whichused to be disposed of on the landor poured into local streams, harm-ing fish life.”

Best of all, it’s delicious. “Peoplefind it incredibly smooth to drinkstraight up, on its own,” McDonaldsays. Vodkow will be available inLCBO outlets this summer, or head toAlmonte near Ottawa to taste it atthe source.

Second Harvest has done with itsawareness-raising Been a Slice beerbrewed from stale bread by theCommon Good Beer Co.

Christine Sismondo, drinks expertand co-author of the forthcomingbook Canadian Spirits: The EssentialCross-Country Guide to Distilleries,Their Spirits, and Where to ImbibeThem, has seen the movement atwork behind the bar.

“Bartenders are boiling up leftoverlime husks to make housemade limecordials. And I’ve tasted some prettyextraordinary faux amaro made inhouse by Robin Goodfellow at[Toronto cocktail bar] Pretty Ugly.”

‘TURNING TRASH INTO CASH’

Another zero-waste effort is at workin Ontario’s dairy industry, whereOmid McDonald and his partners atDairy Distillers have developed avodka from cow’s milk. McDonaldworked with the University of Ottawa

WHAT’S ON TAP THIS SUMMERFrom vodka made from waste to drinks made from cannabis compounds, innovation is everywhere

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TASTE ONTARIO

FROM WINERIES TO BREWERIES TOFARMERS’ MARKETS, foodies haveseveral options for summer road trips inOntario. But for those who like to indulgein sharp cheddar, double-cream brie orcave-aged gouda, there’s an entire traildedicated to all things cheese in OxfordCounty.

“We’re cheese county,” says GabrielleBossy, tourism officer for the County ofOxford.

She’s not joking around:The county ishome to Canada’s first cheese co-op andcheese-making school and features thelongest-running cheddar factory, BrightCheese and Butter, which has operatedfrom the same building since 1874. EveryApril, the region also plays host to theDairy Capital Cheese Fest, an event thatcelebrates local cheese makers, artisans,restaurants, breweries and wineries.

The county’s cheese makers havescooped up 48 awards over the past sixyears. So it’s the place to find — andsample — signature cheeses from aroundsouthwestern Ontario.

The drivable Oxford County CheeseTrail has 24 stops across the county,where one can experience such uniqueflavours as deep-fried cheese curds, brieice cream, paneer bread pudding andOxford cheese arancini (stuffed rice balls).

“It’s about getting a taste of theregion,” Bossy says.

“At last count we had something like14 different countries represented bycheese in Oxford. Because Canada is sucha melting pot of nationalities, you reallydo see that reflected [in the products].”

Along with restaurants serving cheesycreations, two cheese makers on the trailoffer tours: Mountainoak Cheese in NewHamburg and Gunn’s Hill Artisan Cheesein Woodstock. Gunn’s Hill just launchedits Affinage 101 Experience, where thecheese maker puts you to work, washingrinds of cheese.

“It’s a really hands-on experience,”Bossy says. “You get to learn about howhe ages cheese … and it ends with afondue party. It’s so fun.”

Another hands-on experience can befound at Tree to Table in rural Oxford,where visitors create their own charcuterieboard in the shop of a local woodworker— and then, of course, enjoy a spreadof local cheese.

And Ride the Bine, a beer, wine andcider tour company, just launched itsBeer Flights & Cheese Bites tour inOxford County, featuring pairings of localcheese alongside award-winning craftbrews. Wineries also offer tours, such asSprucewood Shores Estate Winery, wherevisitors learn how to pair cheese withwine.

It’s impossible — at least for one’swaistline — to visit all 24 stops in oneday, so some local hotels offer OxfordCounty Cheese Trail packages, includingElm Hurst Inn & Spa, Château la Motteand R Wee Inn. The Elm Hurst package,for example, includes accommodation ina deluxe room, chilled sparkling winefrom Burning Kiln in Turkey Point, artisanchocolates from Chocolatea in Ingersolland a gourmet cheese tray from OxfordCounty cheese artisans.

Many Ontario cheese shops are alsopromoting local cheese makers — alongwith artisanal products that can’t befound in the grocery store.

“We have a strong focus on local andCanadian cheese,” says Jenny Ball, own-er, (aka “the Big Cheese”) of DoverCheese in Port Dover. “We bring in a lotof local and Canadian cheeses in thesummer months because we spend a lotof time educating people from out oftown. They’ll never feel rushed to get outthe door here.”

Ball chooses products based on thequality of the milk. At Gunn’s Hill, forexample, the dairy comes from thefamily farm next door, which creates the‘terroir’ of the cheese.

What makes Ontario cheese unique,however, is its variety. In Montreal, forexample, a lot of cheese is washed-rind.

“They’re making dynamite cheese butthey’ve got a style,” Ball says.

“Here we have a lot of options —you’re not going to go to Gunn’s Hilland then walk up the road and find theexact same cheese.”

From tours to tastings,there is no shortage of waysto sample a vibrant cheeseculture right here in Ontario

CHEESE, TURN TO PAGE T3

FARM-TO-TABLE FRESHNESS

For culinary tourists, there are hundreds of places to travel and treatsto sample this summer. The bounty of our province allowsfor local ingredients that make everything taste better.

PHOTO COURTESY OF THE CHEF’S TABLE

CHEESE,PLEASE

FIRED UP

The best barbecues: The competitive streaks of grill masters come out this summer, with tasty results PAGE T3

CLOSE BY

A treasure trove of hands-on culinary experiences can be found in southwestern Ontario PAGE T5

STARTING OUT

Student chefs will amaze you with their inspirational fare and world-class skills PAGE T6

DRINKS, TURN TO PAGE T3

FEASTS FOR THE SENSES

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IT’SMORNINGATTHEANNUALNIAG-ARA Summer Daze BBQ Competitionand John Thomson is getting ready tostart cooking. Smoke is in the air— thealluring, meat-tinged kind that turnsheads and tempts nostrils. For manyCanadians, it’s the sweet backyard per-fume that signals summertime.

“Looking around, you see otherpeoplewhoare competing and they’reexhausted, because they’ve been upall night,” says Thomson, an Ottawa-based Canadian National BBQ Cham-pion.

“Meanwhile, people like me areworking fast and furious.”

He lifts the lid of the smoker wherehe has had the ribs on for an hour andspritzes them with pineapple juice,which he says makes the meat some-what sweet and pairs well with pork,and checks to ensure themeat ismoist.

“I’ve tailoredmy cooking so that it’sbest as a one-man program,” Thom-son says. Aside from being a barbecuecompetition road warrior, he’s a foun-der and the Greater Ontario chapterlead of the non-profit Canadian BBQSociety (CBBQS). The organization pro-motes barbecue culture, competitionsand education across Canada.

This year, Thomson plans to returnto the Summer Daze competition,which is slated for Aug. 24 toAug. 25 inNiagara Falls,Ont. andhelps spread theword on how amateur barbecue cook-ers can get involved and compete.

In barbecue competitions, Thom-sonandhis fellowcompetitors cook forthe judges. In these cases, the Cana-dian public rarely gets to sample themeat, he says, due to stricter event reg-ulations thanmanyplaces in theUnitedStates.

But competition organizers dowantto attract people, somany are buildingtasting components into their events,aswell asmixing inentertainment, ven-dors and other draws. The SummerDazeCompetition, for example, includ-ed a chicken wing cooking contest lastyear and the public sampled the eats.

So, if you’re looking to attend a bar-becue event, make sure you read thepromotions and knowwhat’s availableto the public and what’s not.

Thomson, who owns and operatesEatapedia.com and offers his ownclasses to budding grillers, wants tospreadhis strongenthusiasmforevery-thing related to barbecuing across Can-ada.

He is the organizer of Canada’slargest barbecue competition, whichhosts 75 teams from all over NorthAmerica. The Capital BBQ Festival isheld every year in Ottawa.

This year, CBBQS has introduced a“backyard barbecue program” that isaimed at equipping people with theskills and knowledge to run their ownbarbecue contests.

Do Canadian andAmerican tastes inbarbecue differ?

“Well, Canadian barbeque is likeAmerican barbeque, but maybe a littlebit sweeter,” Thomson says. “Kansas-style barbeque is super sweet andCan-adians lean in that direction, though

I’m not sure why.”What 90 per cent of Canadians ac-

tually dowhen they say they are barbe-cuing is grilling. They fire up the pro-pane, cook thedishandshut it down, allwithin an hour, usually.

“Canadians generally like meat drip-ping off the bone and sauce all overtheir faces,” Thomson says.

One traditional definition of classicbarbecue is “cooking lowand slow, andtaking your time, usually over an indi-rect heat source,” he says.

This usually means bigger cuts ofmeat, such as pork shoulders, briskets,ribs and whole chickens, cookedaround 225F or 250F for six to 18 hours.

Whilemanyof us consider ourselvesto be no slouches behind the grill,friends and family likely see room forimprovement.

So, here are Thomson’s top five tipsfor making a great barbecue.

TIP #1

Equip yourself with the right tools. Youdon’t need a lot, so forget hankering af-ter, say, a solar-powered grill scrubberor any other seemingly cool but unnec-essary gadget. Just a good pair of tongsand an instant-read thermometer willdo fine.

TIP #2

Start small.Manypeoplestartwithhugefires and then wonder why they burneverything. Don’t underestimate theamountofheatbeingprovidedbysmallfires.

TIP #3

Indirect cooking,where the heat sourceis not directly beneath your food, is agreat way to grill without charring,burning or drying your product.

TIP #4

It’s readywhen it’s ready. Don’t stress ifyour food takes 15 minutes longer thanplanned. It’s barbecue. Chill, enjoy thesmell and build the anticipation.

TIP #5

Cook first, sauce after. Barbecue sauce isa greatway to add additional flavours toyour food, but most sauces have highsugar contents,whichwill burnwell be-fore your food is cooked. Think of bar-becue sauce as an accessory, not themain ingredient.

THE SIZZLINGSCENTSOF SUMMERBarbecue competitions are fun to watch and grillmasters have tips to make you excel at barbecue, too

Barbecue experts say it’s important not to sauce too early, because it can burn quickly. Grill your meat first,then sauce at the end. SHUTTERSTOCK PHOTO

THERE IS GRILLING AND THENTHERE IS KNOWING what you aredoing while grilling. There’s a bigdifference. Anyone can turn on abarbecue on high heat and char asteak. But how much more en-joyable would be the barbecueexperience be if you had graduatedfrom grilling class?

The Weber Grill Academy inVaughan, Ont. is a three-hour,interactive barbecue class led byWeber Grill masters Michael Cliveand Damien Chong. Students grillon gas and charcoal grills to createmeals complete with dessert. Theylearn to brine and make spice rubsfor beef, poultry and pork, andlearn the finer points of grilling,roasting, baking and smoking.

Clive says students who come tohis program are quite motivated toup their game.

“People’s interest and under-

standing of food today is prettysophisticated to begin with,” hesays.

The most common mistakepeople make coming into theprogram is lifting the lid of thebarbecue too often. The temptationis always there to look in on yourfood. Knowing the cook time andhaving patience is key.

“Looking isn’t cooking,” Clivesays.

“Keep the lid down until it’s timeto flip your foods or until the foodis near doneness. Keeping the liddown traps in the heat and deli-cious flavours. People tend to flipthe food too much. In mostly allcases, foods only need to beflipped once during grill time.”

Students learn tips and tricks toensure grilling success, such as howto light a charcoal grill, use the rightgrilling accessories and perfect direct

and indirect cooking methods.Clive says he grew up in an

environment where there was a lotof barbecuing. His parents wouldoften invite over friends and familyto entertain and chill around thegrill. That’s where he got the barbe-cue bug.

“It comes as no surprise that myfavourite style of food has alwaysbeen grilled food,” he says.

The Weber Grill Academyopened in 2014. Becoming a WeberGrill Master involves thousands ofhours of grill time and extensivetraining, so students have thebenefit of learning from a pro.

The three-hour class costs $125per person. Students get to eattheir grilled creations from the classand take home leftovers.

The Mobile Grill Academy offers32 classes in cities across the coun-try.

ELEVATE YOUR GRILL GAME

JUNE 21 TO 22

The community of Ayr, Ont.,southwest of Cambridge, hoststhe The Ayr Charity BBQ, whichincludes a certified barbecuejudge class in which participantslearn how to judge a barbecue.Part of the judging process istasting chicken, ribs, pork andbrisket. ayrcharitybbq.com

AUG. 9 TO AUG. 11:

Beer, Bourbon & BBQ in Toronto,at the Grounds at Hotel X, com-bines the best in barbecue andbeverages. Enjoy craft beers,

bourbon cocktails and see morethan 20 vendors from acrossOntario compete for the BestBarbecue Title. beerbourbonbar-becue.ca

AUG. 9 TO AUG. 11:

The County of Haliburton hoststhe Haliburton Ribfest at HeadLake Rotary Park and will includerib teams from Alabama andOklahoma. Barbecue smokedribs will be available to tastealong with other festival food.There will be children’s entertain-ment and live music. ontariof-estivalgroup.com/event/halibur-ton-ribfest

For those who aren’t into grillingand barbecuing themselves, orwho can’t wait for a ribfest orbarbecue event coming up, theprovince offers thousands ofrestaurants that specialize inbarbecue. There is probably onenear you.

For instance, In Alliston, Ont.,northwest of Toronto, PeakeBarbecue specializes in Texas-style barbecue, especially brisket,cooking theirs for 12 or morehours in oak and maple smoke.Peake sources much of theirproduce locally.

Why not try to explore yourlocal barbecue offerings thissummer?

BARBECUE EVENTS IN SOUTHERN ONTARIO THIS SUMMER

La Jolie Cheese Shop in Aurora alsopromotes local farmsteads andcheesemakers, “to encourage andsupport cheese makers as opposed tolarge commercial industries,” saysowner Jane Kemp.

“So we have cheeses like BackForty— he’s pretty solo and has hisown sheep but it’s a large enoughproduction that he does go through abroker.”

Different animals, and differentbreeds, produce different types ofmilk; it depends on the climate, theirenvironment and their diet.

That’s why the same style ofcheese, using the same traditionalcheesemaking techniques, can tasteso different depending on that “ter-roir”.

“[Canada] is younger in the gamebut we’re coming up with uniquecheeses based on terroir,” Kemp says.

“In Kapuskasing, they say the grassis amazing and the milk is gold stan-dard because of the climate and thehardiness of the animal. You’re goingto get a different type of milk than acow lounging around in southernItaly.”

But with so many cheese makersand cheese shops in Ontario, foodiescan also design their own cheese trail,whether they’re heading to cottagecountry or going for dinner in Niag-ara. Niagara Parks, for example,features a number of restaurants withFeast On certification along its park-way, preserving the culinary experi-

ences of the Niagara River Corridor.Feast On is a certification program thatrecognizes businesses committed tosourcing Ontario grown and madefood and drink.

“We work with 100km Foods [alocal food distribution company], sowe do source directly within 100kilometres,” says Ryan Moran, seniormanager of marketing with NiagaraParks.

That includes local cheese makers,such as Upper Canada Cheese Com-pany in Jordan Station. While localcheeses can be found in Feast Onrestaurants and on seasonal prix fixemenus, the Niagara Pop-up DinnerSeries typically features cheese on themenu.

“We choose unique locations upand down our parkway and set up adinner there,” Moran says, whetherthat’s an al fresco meal in Old Fort Erieor at a Gothic mansion overlookingNiagara Falls.

There’s also the annual Cooks andChefs Apprentice Dinner, which seeksto tell the culinary story of NiagaraParks: local growers, brewers, pro-ducers and providers. And cheese, inits many forms, is becoming a biggerpart of that story.

BEER PAIRINGS

Cheese isn’t just meant for wine; itpairs perfectly with craft beer. Andbeer drinkers can learn a few tips at

Haliburton Highlands Brewing. Itssummer kitchen will offer charcuterieboards that pair with its award-win-ning premium ales.

The brewery is located on-site atAbbey Gardens— a destination in itsown right. This former gravel pit isnow a community project that part-ners with local growers, producersand artisans to build the local foodeconomy.

“It’s the complexity and variety offlavours that are possible in beer thatmake for some interesting pairings,”says Jewelle Schiedel-Webb, whoowns Haliburton Highlands Brewingalong with her husband.

Spruce Kveik, for example, aNorwegian-style farmhouse alebrewed with locally sourced spruce,pairs well with a three-year-agedgouda fromMountainoak Cheese inNew Hamburg.

The cheese, with a dry, Parmesan-style texture and crusty salt deposits,“has a boldness to stand up to a beer.”

Visitors will be able to choose beerand cheese pairings on the brewery’spatio and buy their favourite cheesesat the Abbey Gardens Food Hub.

In addition to its regular offeringssuch as a four-year-aged cheddar fromSt. Albert Cheese Factory, “we will befeaturing a number of special cheeseson rotation,” Schiedel-Webb says, “tospecifically complement some of the25 special small-batch brews we willbe releasing weekly from Victoria Dayto Thanksgiving.”

Cheese: The same type made the same way will taste differently depending on the terroir

Foodies can design their own cheese trail and the Niagara region hasno shortage of local cheese makers. PHOTO COURTESY OF NIAGARA PARKS

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T4 G THE GLOBE AND MAIL | SATURDAY, JUNE 15, 2019

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His friend Whiteduck Ringuette wasgiven a mission to bring traditionalfood back to his people.

“That is romantic in a sense,” Tusca-no says. A heavy diet of refined wheat,sugar and salt made people sick overtime. Whiteduck Ringuette, who grewup north of North Bay, Ont., where hisfather was a hunter and fisher, has rei-magined what traditional Indigenousfood could look like.

He was raised on wild game, fishand seasonal berries. He tapped localmaple trees and cooked over outdoorfire pits at hunt camps.

Identifying, sourcing and reclaim-ing the traditional Anishnawbe diet isone small way of countering the ef-fects of the oppressive residentialschool legacy and generations of trau-ma in the Indigenous community.

“But the First Nations food sover-eignty journey will take all the effortsof many allied Nations to complete thecircle of healing,” Whiteduck Ringuettesays. “Each generation will learn andbenefit greatly through this under-standing.”

June is the busiest month for thecatering business – not surprisingsince National Indigenous PeoplesDay is on June 21.

A big seller these days is Three Sis-ters Stew, a native nutrient-rich dishmade of three “symbiotic plants” –squash, beans and corn. Corn providesthe foundation for the beans to climb,beans provide nitrogen for the soil andsquash protects the ground aroundthem, retaining moisture.

For Whiteduck Ringuette, and oth-ers, food serves as a bridge betweenIndigenous and non-Indigenous com-munities, especially as people gravi-tate more to farm-to-table eating andseek out healthy and holistic nutrition.

“It’s the best way to bridge it,” hesays.

In Halton Region east of Toronto,Jody Harbour of the Indigenous Edu-cation Advisory Council, says Indige-nous cuisine is an ideal platform forreconciliation, “considering the socialcharacteristics of the restaurant andhospitality industry.”

“There is nothing like a meal madewith love and shared while nurturingrelationships,” she says.

Lori Harris, who runs a Six Nationsof the Grand River Territory cateringcompany, says the growing popularitycomes down to the fact Indigenouspeople simply want a healthier rela-tionship with food. Her menu includescorn soup, Three Sisters Soup, Indiantacos, Indian cookies as well as wildgame, venison with wild rice, mush-rooms, onions and bacon.

“We need to do ourselves a favourand start eating the oldway,” she says.

streets is tiny – two long picnic-styletables with benches, and three barstools and a counter next to the frontwindow.

The United Nations Declaration onthe Rights of Indigenous People hangson awall, alongwith photography andartwork, and a small collection of FirstNations handmade goods and prod-ucts: medicine woman soap, bathbombs, books on how to grow foodon your balcony, moccasins and ball-caps, bags of Moccasin-Jo coffee.

NishDish Marketeria and Catering isthe brainchild of chef Johl WhiteduckRinguette, who is Anishnawbe:Ojibwe and Algonquin First Nations.

“It’s not just a restaurant,” White-duck Ringuette says.

The original mission was to buildon his successful catering business go-ing back 12 years and continue to re-claim native food sovereignty —which aims to support and build Indig-enous economies of food, includingproducers, suppliers and sellers —and bring traditional, healthy foodback to his people. Diabetes runs ram-pant across the First Nations popula-tion. Whiteduck Ringuette says Nish-Dish stays away from gluten and dairy,and cooks a lot with grains, vegetablesand the protein that comes from fish,buffalo, elk and bison.

The response from non-Indigenouspeople to the restaurant and its menuhas been, in Whiteduck Ringuette’swords, “truly extraordinary”.

When NishDish launched two yearsago, Clinton Street was shut down fora party for 800 people from the neigh-bourhood. Whiteduck Ringuette callsNishDish more of a community placewhere Indigenous and non-Indige-nous people can gather, in a relaxedenvironment. An education about In-digenous food is the impetus.

There are four restaurants in the citynow that offer Indigenous food.

Hywel Tuscano, Whiteduck Ring-uette’s business partner and also achef, says that NishDish, located nextto several Korean restaurants and closeto a corner spot that serves shawarmaand across the street from a taco place,is part of the culinary richness of To-ronto. But Indigenous food is still newto many Canadian palates.

“When I describe the restaurant topeople, using the word ‘aboriginal’ or‘Indigenous’, they don’t know whatthat means,” he says.

That is reflective of a “lost culture”,Tuscano says, and a lack of visibilitythat native culture has in larger Cana-dian culture. What was lost, he says,was a food foundation for his culture,with native people “not being con-nected to the land anymore becauseof removal.”

and salad, duck breast with duck egg,and wild rice casserole and salad, andbison, boar, or veggie breakfast sand-wiches, among other offerings.

Themenu (specifically Anishnawbecuisine) varies daily, depending on theproduct that is sourced. The restaurantat the corner of Clinton and Bloor

IN THE CENTRE OF TORONTO’S KO-REATOWN on Bloor Street West, oneblock east of Christie Pits, sits one ofthe only restaurants in the city thatserves traditional Indigenous food.

On today’s menu, detailed on achalkboard next to the cash register, isa bison sausage plate with wild rice

FOOD BRINGS COMMUNITIES TOGETHERRestaurants that servetraditional Indigenousfood help native peoplereturn to their rootsand expose others to ahealthy culinary history

A great place to try one is atProject Giggle Water, a cocktail bar onDundas Street West in Toronto, whereyou can sample from its list of ‘PGcocktails’, each one as complex andinteresting as the high-octane variety,Sismondo says.

“And this is right in the heart ofhipster territory where there used tobe bourbon bars, and now you havea really nice cocktail bar with fournon-alcoholic drinks right off the bat.That’s a huge change.”

SOURS AND FERMENTS

After decades of quaffing sugary softdrinks, Canadians are developing ataste for sour, from fermented kom-bucha tea and sour and salty wheatbeers called gose, to the ubiquitouspickleback, which is a bar shot ofwhiskey chased with a shot of picklejuice. A search for sour beer on theLCBO site brings up 50, confirming ashift to the sour side has alreadybegun.

Other sour drinks gaining tractionare shrubs, switchels and ciders.Popular in Victorian times, switchelsand shrubs are a refreshing mix ofvinegar and fruit or botanicals. A visitto some of Toronto’s historic mu-seums this summer could include ataste of shrub using fruit picked fromtheir own gardens, topped withsparkling water.

CBD-INFUSED BEVERAGES

If Colorado’s recent history withcannabis product development is anyguide, Canadians will experience aflood of new beverages featuring thenon-psychotropic compound CBD(cannabidiol) in the next few years.

In October, marijuana edibles (anddrinkables) will be legal across thecountry, and CBD will make its wayinto cold-brew coffees, teas, lemon-ades and beer. As consumers growused to the idea of drinking theircannabis, we can also expect to see itshowing up in wines, colas, coconutwater and sparkling tonics as well.

For now, CBD-infused drinks arebeing tested out at private events,but product development is wellunder way, and the race is on todevelop the first big CBD drink brand.A nice cold Canna-Cola, anyone?

PRIVATE LABELLING

“Custom everything” is a thing in thebar world, Sismondo says, withhotels ordering custom gins for theirbars and restaurants ordering customlabels from Ontario wineries. NowNiagara Parks has gotten into the act,with its own specially commissionedsession ales. Niagara Parks’ long-standing partnership with the culi-nary program at Niagara Collegemade a similar venture with thecollege’s teaching brewery an easydecision, according to Ryan Moran,Niagara Parks’ director of marketing,

“Each year since 2016, we’veworked with them to produce aprivate label session ale that ties intosomething that is going on that year.In 2016, we celebrated the 100thanniversary of the cable car acrossthe Gorge, and, in 2017, it was Voy-ageur Ale to honour the original,pre-European explorers of Canada.This year, we’ve created somethingcalled Table Rock 1885 Ale to markthe redevelopment of the Table Rockbuilding at the brink of the Falls.There’s been a restaurant at TableRock since the 1920s, so we’re tryingto recall that history as well as refer-encing the year that Niagara Parkswas created.”

LOW-OCTANE

Zero-alcohol drinks are on the rise;just don’t call them mocktails, whichin the bartending world signifieswholly uncreative drinks like thecranberry soda. Until recently, zero-proof cocktails had been an after-thought on most bar and restaurantmenus. Today, the hippest bars andbartenders are employing the sameingenuity and techniques to devel-oping the low-and no-alcohol sidesof the menu. “Everyone is tired ofhaving just one drink when there’s somuch to try, so some people willhave one strong drink and then a lowor non-alcoholic drink after, to bal-ance it out,” says Sismondo.

So, the days of virgin Caesars areover, and the new world of placebo,low-octane, sessionable, Temper-ance, suppresser, Prohibition – orwhatever you choose to call them –drinks, is in vogue.

Drinks: Getting a taste for new flavoursFROM PAGE T1

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THE QUEST FOR GREAT FOOD anddrink leads to many innovative,hands-on culinary experiencesacross southwestern Ontario. Theregion offers a treasure trove ofways to appreciate the passion andartistry of local producers.

Experiential tourism is flourishingas people look for meaningfulencounters with what they eat, saysShep Ysselstein, owner of Gunn’sHill Cheese, a small artisan cheesemaker nestled within the rolling hillsof Oxford County.

Gunn’s Hills is catering to thisgrowing demand by giving cheesefans a behind-the-scenes look atwhat it takes to create award-winning cheese.

In its Affinage 101 workshop,guests have the opportunity towash rounds in the aging room,taste cheese at various stages ofmaturation, and finish with a tastyfondue.

“People really love it,” Ysselsteinsays.

“It’s an authentic experience thatgives them a chance to do some-thing unique.”

At Chocolatea in Ingersoll, ownerCindy Walker allows those whohave signed up for Truffle Camp tocome into her kitchen and roll uptheir sleeves to uncover the secretsof artisan chocolate making. Thisactivity involves plenty of sampling,of course, and the opportunity forguests to assemble 12 of their owncreations.

“Everyone enjoys getting theirhands literally covered in chocolate,”she says.

The truffle-making workshop alsogave Walker the chance to shareher passion for local ingredients,like cream and lavender, and thepartnerships she has formed in thearea.

“I am a very hands-on person,so it only made sense that I offerwhat I love to do,” she says.

Vanessa Stewart, owner of Va-nessa’s Bees, echoes the sentiment.

The apiary tour and honey-tasting activity her company hostsat Long Point Eco-Adventures, inPort Rowan, has been getting a lotof ‘buzz.’

Guests of all ages have had thechance to slip into beekeeping suitsand explore the inner workings ofbeehives.

“They come away with a newappreciation for such a tiny littlebug with a bad reputation – thanksto stings,” Stewart says.

“The stories of honey bees'natural history and behaviours arereally impressive and participants arequite fascinated by what they learn.They’re also surprised to find outthat honey from different plantspecies have varying flavours.”

Sharing her knowledge andraising awareness of the contribu-tion bees make is important forStewart.

“I want to provide an opportuni-ty for more people to understandbees and what they provide for us.”

Bringing attention to environ-mental issues is also something thatmotivates David Schonberger, ownerof Ottercreek Woodworks, in Bur-gessville.

The From Tree to Table experi-ence takes guests on a guided walkthrough the Carolinian forest beforeheading to the workshop to designand make their own live-edgecharcuterie board with expert guid-ance on how to use a variety ofwoodworking tools.

“It gives me a chance to shinethe spotlight on the important roleof the forest,” Schonberger says,“and … why it needs to be pre-served.”

The response from guests to hisexperience has been overwhelming-ly positive, Schonberger says. Infact, he recently earned Ontario’sSouthwest 2018 Innovative Experi-ence of the Year award.

He says many participants leavecomments about memories thatworking with wood evokes. “[Theexperience] leaves them with a fullheart,” he adds.

For those seeking to learn moreabout the culinary and culturalhighlights of London, one of Onta-rio’s largest cities, try ExperientialWalking Tours.

Throughout the tour, a localculinary expert tells the stories andhistory behind a city that hasearned a reputation as a dynamicdestination for food lovers.

“Visitors appreciate the fact thatwe go the extra mile to connectlocals and visitors to homegrownartisan, small-batch products or anauthentic hands-on gastronomicexperience,” says Bryan Lavery,whose company Lavery CulinaryGroup created the tours.

Attendees enjoy curated culinaryexperiences, such as pop-ups, atasting tour of Covent GardenMarket that concludes with a cook-ing class, or an interactive tour ofthe Fork of the Thames.

Another destination with a richhistory is Windsor. The Drinks ofWalkerville tour traces the city’sroots with an exclusive hands-ontour of Hiram Walker & Sons.Participants are invited to sip fourtypes of whiskies inside the J.P.Wiser’s Brand Centre and under-stand why the city is called ‘Whis-keytown Canada.’

Then it’s off to Walkerville Brew-ery for a look at the brewing proc-ess and a visit to local hangout F&Bfor a sampling of two craft cocktailsthat are prepared by an expertmixologist.

Beer enthusiasts looking to learnmore should sign up for Brewer fora Day at The Grove Brew House, acraft brewery in downtown Kings-ville. Join the knowledgeable brew-ery team and be put to ‘work’learning, eating and tasting, pluslunch or dinner and a beer flight.

Participants leave with more thanjust memories. They’ll take home a20-litre keg, or a 10-litre equivalentin cans.

THE BEST OF THE SOUTHWESTOntario’s food and drink experiences cater to the senses

At Gunn’s Hill Cheese, guests can get a behind-the-scenes look, and taste, at how their artisan cheese ismade. PHOTO COURTESY OF GUNN’S HILL

At Chocolatea’s Truffle Camp, chocolate lovers can learn the secrets of making truffles and make their owncreations. PHOTO COURTESY OF CHOCOLATEA

“Visitors appreciate the factthat we go the extra mile.

Bryan LaveryOwner

Lavery Culinary Group

“I am a very hands-on person,so it only made sense that I

offer what I love to do.

Cindy WalkerOwner

Chocolatea

T6 G THE GLOBE AND MAIL | SATURDAY, JUNE 15, 2019

SPONSOR CONTENT

IF YOU’RE LOOKING FOR A UNIQUEDINING EXPERIENCE, escape the ordi-nary and discover how students atsome of the finest culinary colleges inCanada are pushing the boundaries ofgourmet food.

Notonlywill youhave the chance toindulge in the offerings of studentstesting their ability to create top-notchmenus, you’ll help in the developmentof tomorrow’s top chefs, invest in theCanadian culinary industry and boostlocal businesses. Plus, the experienceoften comes at a price that won’t breakthe bank – and that’s a cherry on top.

So, as youplanyour summerescap-es, addadashof adventure toyour reg-ular routine. Try a dish infusedwith notonly the freshest herbs and spices, butthe passion and ingenuity of futureMark McEwans. Go for a foodie roadtrip and spice up your summer – andpalate – at restaurants in three differentregions of the province.

BISTRO ‘67

When Ryan Cullen first began workingas a student at Bistro ‘67, hewas able totell his guests something few serverscould say.

“I could look at their plate, point outthe window and say, ‘I picked that car-rot for you this morning,’” Cullen says.

What Cullen’s referring to is theunique opportunity he had at the W.Galen Weston Centre for Food (CFF) inWhitby, Ont. Focused on field-to-forkand sustainable business practices, theone-stop-shop houses DurhamColleg-e’s programs in culinary, food andfarming, horticulture, hospitality train-ing and more.

It also features the elite on-site, stu-dent-run restaurant Bistro ‘67 and, justoutside its doors, there is an apple or-chard, a greenhouse, a post-harveststorage facility and nearly an acre ofland where students tend to every-thing from rhubarb to root vegetables.

Having everything on-site meantCullen, now field supervisor, could gofrom picking crops in the morning toserving in the bistro at night.

“It was field-to-fork for me, too,” hesays with a laugh. “This place reallybrings the two worlds together— thegrower and the chef — in one reallycool space,” he says. “For the students,it’s amazing.”

TRENDY DISHES,LOCALLY SOURCED

As CFF general manager Kelly O’Brienpoints out, it’s amazing for bistroguests, too.

“Since we’re a learning environ-ment, it ensures everything is on-trend,” she says, noting thatmenus arechef-approved, but student-created.“Some of the things they come upwith, I’m just like how [did you think ofthat]?” O’Brien says.

A quick glance at the menu and it’seasy to be enticed: from the searedMuskovy duck breast with PophamLane Farm blackcurrant and gingerglaze cauliflower and potato puréewith dandelion greens to the Black-enedKendalHillsGame farmhalf chick-en with Roma tomatoes and DC basilbeurre blanc, spring vegetables andsautéed purple potatoes, it’s unlikelythe word “novice” comes to mind.

What inspires student creationsthough isn’t hard to find – students arechallenged to use everything at theschool’s doorstep. And when theydon’t have what they need – theydon’t look far. The bistro, which holdsthe Feast On designation, prides itselfon supporting the community, work-ing with one local farm for chicken andmushrooms, for example, and another

nearby father-and-son duo for theircoffee.

CUTTING-EDGE COLLABORATIONS

Expert foodies will also be drawn toBistro 67’s cutting-edge collabora-tions. Partnering with local suppliersmeans many of their dishes and cock-tails are one of a kind.

For example, they recently teamedup with a distillery to create a uniquestrawberry gin, which will be used tomake cocktails at local restaurants. Thecollege has also joined forces with abrewery, collaborating on two brews:one, a sweet potato stout, and anotherthat will feature marigold, herbs andflowers that were all grown on-site bystudents and which will be served inthe bistro.

If that’s not enough to tantalize yourtastebuds,O’Brien says that everyyearstudents create a completely new item,such as the “cucumelon”.

“It looks like a small watermelon,but it tastes like a cucumber,” she says,adding that “pineberry” – that is, awhite strawberry with pineapple fla-vour – is also in the works.

“We might come up with a cocktailor something at a brewery,” she says.“It’s important to us to grow what wecan use and utilize.”

Which brings up another key focus:sustainability. The school has been sosuccessful at reducing food waste thatcompanies are looking tomodel someof their practices.

“Reducing food waste is big for us.We get creativewith howwe can trans-form food,” O’Brien says, noting theyonce had a surplus of beets so decidedtomake beet ketchup instead of throw-ing them away.

‘HEART AND SOUL’

Chuck Thibeault, executive director ofCentral Counties Tourism, says for tour-ists in the area, visiting Bistro ’67 andother local establishments is a mea-ningful way to experience the region.

“Agri-tourism is all about connect-ingwith food,” he says. “By combiningagriculture and tourism, families expe-rience an authentic way to enjoy therural landscapes and terroir of York,Durham and Headwaters, while in-dulging in amazing educational experi-ences focused on the sustainable de-velopment of organically, locallygrown food, craft beer, wine and alco-hol unique to our regions.”

As for the fact that Bistro ’67 relieson chefs-to-be, O’Brien assures guestswill have a premier dining experience.

“We have a dynamic, passionateteam, we oversee and mentor the stu-dents. … Everyone’s heart and soul isin it to be the best we can be and servethe best we can,” she says.

And the experience, Cullen says, isa special one.

“We’re really pushing the bounda-ries on the kind of culture we need tohave in our communities and ourtowns and our cities,” he says. “We’ve

lost that connection with food, andwe’re changing that paradigm a little. Ithink it’s a model that can be replicat-ed.”

THE CHEF’S TABLE

When you think of fine dining optionsin London, Ont., a city of about385,000 surrounded by farmland, youmight not expect themost internation-al culinary experience.

But thanks to The Chef’s Table, aFeast On-certified restaurant operatedby Fanshawe College’s School of Tou-rism, Hospitality and Culinary Arts,world-class dishes are infused withglobal inspiration.

“We have somuch cultural diversityamongst our student population. Icontinually find myself asking morequestions than I’m answering,” ChefKyle Fee says.

With more international studentsthan ever before in the program, itmeans that those grilling, grinding andglazing are also adding foreign flavourto the dishes they serve.

“Some of our students come upwith some incredible menu ideas.Some apply techniques fromhome, or

just really research andwant to attemptsomething new and different. Whenthis happens,weembrace it,” Fee says.

He also notes that some of the res-taurant’s diversity comes from blend-ing different areas of study together.The restaurant welcomes studentsfrom a range of programs, includingbaking and pastry arts, food and nutri-tion and culinary management.

FUNDAMENTALS AND TECHNIQUE

Just as students—roughly 150puttingtheir skills to the test at the restauranteach day — have the chance to inno-vate, Fee saysmenus are basedon fun-damentals and technique.

“We try to make everything, fromthe cheese on our caprese salad to thebacon on our burgers,” he says. “Wewant to expose them to a lot of tech-nique to broaden their understandingof what it takes to make those prod-ucts. Sure, they can come in a vacuum-sealed package or a bucket, but theydon’t have to.”

Jen Moore, marketing and commu-nications manager at Southwest Onta-rio Tourism Corporation, says TheChef’s Table is helping toput the regionon the culinary map.

“Ontario’s Southwest region is at-tracting some of the world’s top culi-nary talents, from chefs, wine makersand brewers to artisanal cheese mak-ers and organic farmers. This results ina booming farm-to-table, wine andcraft beer scene. It all starts with greatideas like The Chef’s Table at FanshaweCollege,” she says.

FRESH AND SEASONAL

Emma Rankin, restaurant, café andevents manager, says another worthyfeature of The Chef’s Table is thatmuchof the food is sourced locally, includingmeat, chicken, beef, coffee, tea andbrews.

“Our cocktail list always under con-stant review anddevelopment, andwelocally source products fromdistilleriesas well, so everything is fresh and sea-sonal,” she explains.

The restaurant is open for bothlunch and dinner, and the students —who work both front and back ofhouse — serve at special events aswell, such as a recent VIP dinner for theJuno Awards, which took place in Lon-don earlier this year.

At that exclusive event, students ranlive stations where they prepared spe-cially designed hors d’oeurves in frontof elite industry guests. Student-creat-ed dishes were also selected for themain menu.

GUESTS ‘LOVE BEING PARTOF THAT EXPERIENCE’

It’s that student-learning element thatexcites Fee the most.

“The thing that really energizes meis working closely with the students.Most of them are very passionate andeager to learn a topic that I’ve devotedover half of my life to. So, a lot of thetime it doesn’t feel like work,” he says.

Rankin says students are also ahighlight for guests.

“When you eat at the restaurant andexperience an event here, the guestsare so intrigued,” she says. “They justlove being part of that experience, andthey love supporting the learning ofthe younger generation.”

NIAGARA PARKS

They say if you can’t take the heat, youshould get out of the kitchen. If culi-nary students in a Niagara Parks ap-prenticeship program can prove any-thing, it’s that they can take it.

Learning how to poach, purée, scal-lop and sear all while serving guestsfrom all over the world at one of Cana-da’s premier tourist destinations meanthey’re not only working with a pres-sure cooker – they’re in one.

“Everyone’s a foodie now, guestshavehigher expectations than theydid30 years ago,” says Paul Pennock, di-rector of culinary services with NiagaraParks.

Pennock is referring to the impact ofInstagram and other social media sites

that have cultivatedmass followings offood lovers posting picture-perfect anddrool-worthy dishes.

“There’s high pressure. We have in-ternational guests – you need tomakeit exciting for them,” he says.

The Niagara Parks apprenticeshipprogram is in partnership with NiagaraCollege and the Ministry of Training,Colleges and Universities. Student ap-prenticesget to learn alongside leadingchefs at one of five fine dining, FeastOn-certified establishments in the re-gion, including the newly renovatedTable RockHouseRestaurant,whichof-fers a front-row view of Niagara Falls.

“We wanted to improve the sitelines to the falls, and we took time torevamp our menu, looking at whatdish is best for every single item, so ev-erything is new, unique and standswith our vision of being champions oflocal food and beverage,” Pennocksays of their flagship restaurant, whichreopened May 1.

The other Feast On-certified restau-rants are: Queen Victoria Place Restau-rant; Queenston Heights Restaurant;Whirlpool Golf Course Restaurant; andLegends on the Niagara Restaurant.

WINERIES: ‘HARD TO KEEP TRACK’

Students in the program complete6,000 hours of training and gain expe-rience in all five Niagara Parks restau-rants. During that time, they serveweddings, corporate groups, individu-al travellers and families.

Students are challenged to createmenus with a smorgasbord of locallysourced foods and ingredients, wow-ing their guests with the freshest of fla-vours.

“We’re fortunate to have everythinghere–notonly the fruit belt (known forcherries, strawberries, peaches,plums, apples, pears and more) but anagricultural mecca,” Pennock says,noting the region has more than 100wineries.

“A newoneopens everyweek– it’shard to keep track,” he says, addingthat one of the region’s most under-stated treats are freshwater fish, includ-ing perch, pickerel, rainbow trout andarctic char.

“That’s something we’re proud tofeature in our restaurants,” he says.

In fact, with roughly 60 per cent offood and 90 per cent of their beverag-es locally sourced, David Adames, CEOof Niagara Parks, says, “As a self-sus-taining agency of the province of Onta-rio,wepride ourselves on providing in-spiring dining experiences that trulyshowcase a taste of place. At NiagaraParks we know that formany of our in-ternational visitors this may be theirfirst, true Canadian culinary moment,so we strive make sure that it is an un-forgettable one featuring the authenticflavours of Ontario.”

STUDENTS: ‘THE FOUNDATIONSOF OUR SUCCESS’

But what they’re also proud of is theprogram’s investment in Canada’s fu-ture chefs.

“It’s one of the foundations of oursuccess,” Pennock says of the appren-ticeship program. “It’s really importantto bring people into the industry, andit’s important to make sure we createan enticing environment, that we givestudents an opportunity to advanceand to learn.

“If we don’t invest in these things,therewon’t be anyone there to cook inthe future,” he adds.

For students, the opportunity tofoster their careers in a tourismhotspotis just as valuable.

“There’s wonderful foods andwines in the Niagara Region to focuson and showcase … so to have the op-portunity to work here, learning fromgreat chefs, it helps build their re-sume,” Pennock says. “You can beproud that you catered to visitors fromaround the world at one of the mostspectacular views.”

Just outside the doors of Bistro ‘67 in Whitby are an apple orchard, a greenhouse, a post-harvest storage facility and almost an acre of land where students tend to vegetables,making the dining experience there truly farm to table. PHOTO COURTESY OF BISTRO ‘67

FUTURE CHEFS WILL WOW YOUR PALATEFoodies can samplecreative dishes bystudents at restaurantsthat offer gourmet fare

At The Chef’s Table in London, world-class fare is infused with international flavours, thanks in part to thediversity of its student body. PHOTO COURTESY OF THE CHEF’S TABLE

“Everyone’s heartand soul is in it tobe the best we canbe and serve the

best we can.

Kelly O’BrienGeneral manager

W. Galen Weston Centre for Food

Product: TGAM PubDate: 06-15-2019 Zone: GTA Edition: 1 Page: SPReport_2838734 User: SLaloudakis Time: 06-03-2019 13:03 Color: CMYK

Named for the restaurant that was once located on this site, Table Rock HouseRestaurant presents visitors with a unique dining experience. Recalling thehistory of the location, showcasing dynamic local food stories through expertlycrafted seasonal menus, including recommended pairings, and all with a side ofone of the world’s most unrivalled views.

niagaraparks.com/culinary

WHAT’S OLD IS NEW AGAIN

WHAT DOES NIAGARA TASTE LIKE?

At Niagara Parks, a 133-year-old agency of the province of Ontario, we are committed to preservingand presenting the wonders of Niagara for the enjoyment of the world. From our inspiring naturalwonders— the falls themselves— and engaging heritage sites, to our breathtaking and reflectivehorticultural spaces, presenting experiences that invoke and excite your senses is what we do.

All senses.

Across the past number of years, our Niagara Parks Culinary team has explored how to truly presentthe tastes of Ontario and Niagara to the world. The answer was easy, look local.

Working with the Culinary Tourism Alliance under their Feast On certification program, our services andall of our five full-service restaurants, from the epic Table Rock House Restaurant to the serene QueenstonHeights Restaurant, feature a mandated minimum 25% food and beverage sourced from local Ontario

growers, producers, and providers.

In fact, Niagara Parks Culinary features up to 60% locally sourced food, and nearly 100% beverages.And we don’t stop there, even the talented cooks and chefs in our kitchens are locally sourced.

The Niagara Parks Apprenticeship Training Program, in association with Niagara College, is one ofthe largest of its kind in Canada.

From amazing Ontario orchards to the delicious dairies, from VQA wines to Ontario’s fast-growing craft beerand spirits scene, Niagara Parks is committed to supporting the many growers, producers and craftspeoplethat make up Ontario’s unique taste of place. And with five full-service restaurants and a slate of spectacular

events to choose from, you’ll know your meal will be just as unique as the land where it’s grown.

flavourBEGINS HERE

To learn more about Niagara Parks Culinary, our restaurants, and ourhighly anticipated Pop-Up Dinner series, visit niagaraparks.com/culinary

rageagainstthe RouTinE.

• Arvinda’s Spices & Chai• Bake Three Fifty• Blackjack BBQ• Blossom Moments• The Box Donut• Brød• Chocolatta Gourmet

Brigadeiros• Craft Chippery• Dal Moro’s Fresh Pasta

• Hale Coffee• Kingston Olive Oil Co.• La Carnita• Ma’s Best Gourmet Soups• The Macaron Boutique• MiDiCi• The Pie Commission• Pier 87

Fish Market & Grill• Plancha

• Secret Lands Farm• Seed to Sausage• Sugar King Factory• Sweet Jesus• Tao Tea Leaf• Village Juicery• The Wine Shop

& Tasting Room• and more

Tantilize your tongue with 25+ Artisinal Merchants and Restaurants

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What We’re AboutAt The Food District, we focus on offering

local, handmade, and high-quality foods in a

setting that embraces both new and old-world

food emporiums. Spanning 40,000 square feet,

The Food District offers an outstanding array

of specialty products as well as a space to

meet, explore, and share the love of food.

The Food District is located inside Square One

at 100 City Centre drive in Mississauga.shopFOODDISTIRCT.com/parking