Textile Internship Vardhman
Transcript of Textile Internship Vardhman
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SUMMER INTERNSHIP REPORT
2015
Sagar Sehrawat
Semester V
Department of Fashion Technology
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NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION
TECHNOLOGY
CERTIFICATE
Certifed that this project report is the bonafdework o Sagar Sehrawat who carried out the
project work under my supervision.
MENTOR
SUBMITTED BY:
Mr. Neeraj Jaiswal Sagar
Sehrawat
ssociate !roessor Sem. "
#$%&'
N(%&) *angra
*+,-!-/
SIGNATURE
SIGNATURE
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Acknowledgement
This Internship Proved to bridge the gap between the theoretical and Practical
Aspects of textile Field. It was a great pleasre to be part of Vardhman !rop. All
Than"s to my institte #IFT$ %angra for providing me the opportnity for getting the
practical "nowledge at sch an eminent company.
I am very than"fl to the whole Vardhman !rop for providing me the best possible
facilities and good environment dring the period of my internship. I ac"nowledge
deep gratitde towards each and every employee of the grop for providing me with
their valable time.
I wold li"e to express my deep gratitde to my mentor &r. #eera' (aiswal for his
patient gidance$ enthsiastic encoragement and sefl criti)es of this research
wor".
I wold also li"e to than" my *atch mates and the faclties of #IFT$ %angra for their
views and ideas for the given topic. This proved ot to be really helpfl for the
Pro'ect.
Finally$ I wish to than" or ++$ &r. Sarabh +hatrvedi for his spport and
encoragement throghot the pro'ect.
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OBJECTIVE OF INTERNSHIP
To nderstand the concept of spn yarn prodction$ dyeing$ printing and finishing of
yarns$ testing and their )ality aspects both technical as well as for commercialprpose.
The machinery featres$ machine and material process parameters have been
described in detail in the areas as mentioned below,
Assignment 1
-bservations to be made and information to be docmented on the arn
manfactring and winding section,
A. /aw material storage and inspection section.
*. *low room section.
+. +arding section.
D. Drawing section.
0. +ombing section.
F. /oving section.
!. Spinning section.
Assignment !
-bservations to be made and information to be docmented on the weaving section
Assignment "
-bservations to be made and information to be docmented on the Dyeing section
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Assignment #
-bservations to be made and information to be docmented on the different
Departments li"e Testing$ 1ality +hec"$ and &anagement etc.
TABLE OF CONTENTS
-.+roup !rofle0. ssignment - #Spinning processes'
. ssignment 0 #1eaving processes'/. ssignment #$yeing processes'2. ssignment / #$i3erent $epartments with
processes involved'4. 5earning 6utcomes
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$RO%P PROFI&E
V'(d)m'n!rop is a leading textile conglomerate in India having a trnover of 2344
million. Spanning over 56 manfactring facilities in five states across India$ the
!rop bsiness portfolio incldes arn$ !reige and Processed Fabric$ Sewing
Thread$ Acrylic Fibre and Alloy Steel.
Vardhman !rop manfactring facilities inclde over 7$44$444 spindles$ 89 tons per
day yarn and fibre dyeing$ :44 shttle less looms$ :4 million meters per annm
processed fabric$ ;; tons per day sewing thread$
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MISSION
V'(d)m'naims to be world class textile organiBation prodcing diverse range
of prodcts for the global textile mar"et. V'(d)m'nsee"s to achieve
cstomer delight throgh excellence in manfactring and cstomer service
based on creative combination of stateCofCtheCart technology and hman
resorces. V'(d)m'nis committed to be responsible corporate citiBen.
PHILOSOPHY:
Faith in bright ftre of Indian textiles and hence contined expansion in
areas @which we "now best.
Total cstomer focs in all operational areas.
Prodct to be of best available )ality for premim mar"et segments throghT1& and ero Defect Implementation in all fnctional areas.
!lobal orientation targeting at least 54E prodction for exports.
Integrated diversificationprodct range expansion.
GorldCclass manfactring facilities with most modern /HD and process
technology.
Faith in individal potential and respect for hman vales.
0ncoraging innovation for constant improvements to achieve excellence in
all fnctional areas.
Accepting change as a way of life.
Appreciating or role as a responsible corporate citiBen.
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HISTORY
The indstrial city of ?dhiana$ located in the fertile &alwa region of +entral Pn'ab
is otherwise "nown as the &anchester of India. Githin the precincts of this city is
located the +orporate head)arters of the Vardhman !rop$ a hosehold name in
#orthern India. The Vardhman !rop$ born in % and 0> in
addition to the domestic mar"et. Adherence to systems and a tre dedication to
)ality has reslted in obtaining the coveted IS- :445 IS-
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*'(ns
arn &anfactring is the ma'or activity of the grop acconting for 9< percent of the
grop trnover. Vardhman is virtally a spermar"et of yarns$ prodcing the widest
range of cotton$ synthetics and blended$ !rey and Dyed yarns and =and %nitting
arns$ in which Vardhman is the mar"et leader in India. The grop has twenty one
prodction plants with a total capacity of over 7.7 lacs spindles$ spread all over the
contry. In many of the yarn mar"et segments$ Vardhman holds the largest mar"et
share. Vardhman is also the largest exporters of yarn from India$ exporting yarns
worth more than >SD 575 million.
PERFORMANCE:
Dring the last
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response system for addressing cstomer needs. A highCtech inChose sampling
nit and a design stdio enable Vardhman to provide cstomers with the most
innovative prodcts. Vardhman has also implemented 0nterprise /esorce Planning
K0/PL System to provide facilities li"e online trac"ing of orders.
HUMAN RESOURCES:
The hman resorce development at Vardhman is aimed at enabling people
discover their tre potential. The company endeavors to provide opportnities to
experiment with a strong cltre bilt arond talent$ team wor"$ competitive spirit$
continos learning$ trst and transparency. The wellCdesigned system of"nowledge dissemination across varios levels ensres access to intellectal capital.
The "nowledge ban" facilitates individal growth and excellence. Vardhman believes
that winning leaders are teachers and winning organisations always encorage and
reward teaching. The bsiness processes$ organisational strctre and day to day
operating mechanism promote teaching for developing a stream of yong leaders.
The calibre and professionalism of its people has helped Vardhman achieve and
maintain its leadership in the competitive environment of today. The !rop has
initiated a nmber of hman resorce development processes to facilitate
consistent improvement in performance$ prodctivity and effectiveness.
Vardhman believes in continos learning and adapting to change as a way of life.
Preparing for transformation$ the !rop has designed elaborate training and
development programmes that encompass the technical$ managerial$ behavioral
and spirital growth of its employees. Vardhman Training and Development
+entre at ?dhiana$ caters to the distinct needs of its employees$ where training
programmes are condcted throghot the year by inChose and external faclty.
&anav Vi"as %endras and 1ality +ircles are also similar initiatives where trained
faclty impart reglar training$ especially to wor"men. Apart from this$ managers
participate in training at some of the best instittes li"e the =arvard *siness
School K>SAL$ Institte of &anagement Development KSwitBerlandL$ IS* and II&s in
India. Vardhman sincerely believes that when technology converges$ people willma"e all the difference.
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THE SOCIAL DIMENSION:
As a commitment to the society and the wor"force$ Vardhman has provided
schools for the children$ fnctional residential complexes for employees and
wor"ing women hostels for single women wor"ers. #meros recreational activities$
sports programmes and cltral events dring festivities are reglarly organised.
*esides these$ the +ompany rns medical camps to meet the health re)irements of
the people.
Sri Arobindo +ollege of +ommerce and &anagement in ?dhiana and the
Arobindo Pblic School at *addi K=imachal PradeshL are stellar examples of howVardhman is involved in providing specialised edcation and improving
competence levels in the society at large. /esponding to the call for inclsive
growth$ Vardhman !rop has started a +apability 0nhancement Training
Programme for socially nderCprivileged stdents on reglar basis. The training
aims at enhancing the employability of nderCprivileged stdents belonging to
schedled castes$ schedled tribes and other bac"ward classes.
The Vardhman !rop made earnest efforts to increase the income of cotton
growing farmers by imparting training to them on varios aspects of cotton
cltivation throgh @Village Adoption Programme. As a reslt of these efforts$ the
cotton prodctivity of the adopted villages increased manifold and has crossed the
national cotton prodctivity average.
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ENVIRONMENTAL CONSCIOUSNESS:
Decreasing green belts and ever increasing polltion has become the bane of
moderniBation. Vardhman has always made a conscios effort not only to preserve
the environment arond s bt also to contribte its mite towards bilding a better
world. A corollary of this consciosness is visible in the best polltion control
devices and practices. Vardhman has also increased green cover across all
manfactring nits. !oing frther$ Vardhman grop actively pioneered the setting
Cp of #imba !reenfield Pn'ab ?imited$ a company dedicated to solid waste
treatment$ storage and disposal in the State of Pn'ab$ India.
+%A&IT* ,ANA$E,ENT TECHNI+%ES
At Vardhaman $)ality management techni)es are given a lot of credit and are
followed religiosly. -ne of the ma'or )ality management techni)es followed by
them is Total Prodctive &aintenance KTP&L.
Total Prodctive &aintenance is a maintenance program which involves maintaining
plants and e)ipment. The goal of the TP& program is to mar"edly increase
prodction while$ at the same time$ increasing employee morale and 'ob satisfaction.
TP& brings maintenance into focs as a necessary and vitally important part of the
bsiness. Down time for maintenance is schedled as a part of the manfactring
day and$ in some cases$ as an integral part of the manfactring process. The goal
is to hold emergency and nschedled maintenance to a minimm.
TP& starts with 9S. Problems cannot be clearly seen when the wor" place is
norganiBed. +leaning and organiBing the wor"place helps the team to ncover
problems. &a"ing problems visible is the first step of improvement.
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J'-'nese Te(mEnglis)T('nsl'tion
E./i0'lent Ste(m
Seiri -rganisation Sort
Seiton Tidiness Systematise
Seiso +leaning Sweep
Seiketsu Standardisation Standardise
Shitsuke Discipline Self C Discipline
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&otal !roductive Maintenance instructions and
methods have been put up in the actory to
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+hief &anagingDirector
,R2 S2P2 OS3A&
0xective Director
,R2 SACHIT JAIN
ViceCPresidentK+ommercial HAdministrationL
+hief&anager
0xective$-fficers H
Staff
&anagersKAccontsF=/F+osti
ngF+ommercialL
0xective$-fficers H
Staff
Vice PresidentKProdctionL
,R2VINEET PAN4E*
Asst. VicePresident
K0ngineeringL
,R2 4HEERAJ
,EHTA
+hief &anagerKGorstedL,R2 J2S2
RE5HI
0xective$-fficers H Staff
ProdctionSpervisors
Gor"men
Senior &anagerKSpinning < HSpinning 5L
,R2 VASANT BISEN
0xective$-fficers H Staff
Prodction
Spervisors
Gor"men
&anager KDye=oseL
,R2 AT%&
VER,A
0xective$-fficers H
Staff
Prodction
Spervisors
Gor"men
OR$ANI6ATIONA& STR%CT%RE
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ASSI$N,ENT7 1
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7,6 S!(NN(N+ M(55S #8/999
S!(N$5:S'
!,6$7C&(6N $:&(5S
Number o production halls ; 2
7N(& - #
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7N(& / #
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-pening H Sorting
&ixing
*lowroom
+arding
PreC+ombing
+ombing
Draw Frame
Speed Frame
/ing Frame
Ginding
+onditioning
Pac"ing
PROCESS F&O3 OF COTTON SPINNIN$
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B&O3ROO,OPENIN$8 SORTIN$ AN4 ,I9IN$
This process involves opening of fibre bales and opening tfts of cotton into smaller
tfts and removal of foreign materials. &ixing and sorting is done to, /edce the cost of raw materials =ave a niform distribtion of different types of cotton
&oistriBe the cotton and allow them to open p
Ghile mixing$ it shold be considered that fibres shold have identical properties li"e
length$ strength etc. Price$ color and grade of cotton shold be of approximately
same )ality. -ptimm amont of different varieties shold be mixed to "eep the
)ality p to the mar". Soft waste shold be added as per re)irement.
,i:ing The material from the compressed bales are torn into small floc"s manally
and stored into the mixing room for
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Tec)nic'l S-eci;ic'tions ;o( Cotton
Cotton Varieties Usedi. (C;6 K34ELii. SC8 K;4EL
Bale Size 59 x in ;t2?
AREA
>in s.2
Ft2?
,ATERIA& STORA$E
1
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# 99 39.5 84 69
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In the blowroom$ inpt is being fed in the form of cotton bales and the otpt appearsin the form of floc"s. The main fnction of blow room is the opening$ cleaning and
mixing of bale.
The main identifiable imprities are being removed by the machines at the farming
stage$ the process is called ginning. !inning process removes the main imprities
li"e seed coats$ hair$ stones$ plastic$ 'te$ cords etc. After ginning cotton bales are
formed in the compressed form. 0ach bale weighs approx #ITCI consists of 5 lines, ?ineCI and ?ineCII. 0ach line is formed by
the lay down of bales in the form of stac" one over another$ approximately 94 in
nmber.
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&ixing can also be done at this stage by creating a lay down which consists of two or
more varieties$ in the approximate ratios$ according to the endCprodct re)irement.
Blowroom= 5aydown o cotton bales beore miing and sorting
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7N(%56C*
C6N$:NS:,
MD( %561
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Unifloc A-10
&anfactrer, /I0T0/
This machine is sed plc" the floc"s ot of the laid down bales$ basically with the
help of sction. It consists of a ta"eCp nit which is connected by vacm. It has 5
types of rollers, < beater roller and 5 stripper roller.
The 5 stripper rollers consist of metallic blades on its srface$ which penetrate inside
the bales for better grip on both the sides.
In between are the main rollers i.e. the beater rollers$ which again have got spi"es on
its srface. Its main fnction is to open the compressed bales and plc" ot the
fibers$ so that they can be sc"ed by the pnematic action.
Traversal speed of ta"e C p nit M
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In addition$ the wor"ers also pic" the noticeable trash by hand li"e, hair$ 'te$ plastic$
paper$ stones etc. they also open the bnch of fibres manally.
TRANSPORTATION PIPES:
The floc"s plc"ed in >nifloc" throgh chteCfeed system$ Kthe pipes tiliBe
pnematic action to pass on the plc"ed fibresL get more opened$ while travelling
throgh the dct. In between there is also a metal detector which detects the
presence of any metal pieces inside the floc"s and the damper diverts it into the
waste bag.
Sorting and Miing done by the 7niGoc Machine.
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The dctspipes have been given color coding,
Sr.
#o+olor +ode Fnction of Pipeline
Diameter
of Pipes
KmmL
?ocation
< !reen &aterial
Transportation
;44 In all machines K*lowroom and
+ardL
5 *le Gaste Transportation 554$;44$9
94
&F+$ +VTC;$ +omber
; ellow &icrodst
Transportation
;44 ?VSA$ +VTC;$ SPCF$ +ard
6 /ed Fire Diversion ;44 &F+$ &P&$SPCF$ +ard
In case of spar" inside the F*% pipes de to frictionmetal particles$ the entire
material inside the dcts is diverted otside the nit for preventing the fibre from
spreading.
CONDENSER:
&anfactrer, TrtBschler
-nce the material has been passed throgh the metal detector$ it goes to the
+ondenser where the heavy particles are sc"ed and they fall down. Ths$ in this
way the material is frther cleaned.
MAXI FLOW:
&anfactrer, TrtBschler
The material is dropped in the machine by gravity throgh the +ondenser and
advances with the beater action. The dst and contamination is separated and falls
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down. The material is removed from the maxi flow with the help of sction from the
maxi machines.
SEPARATOR:
&anfactrer, TrtBschler
=eavy Particle Separator is simple e)ipment wor"ing on aeroCdynamics principle.
The machine removes contaminations in the mixing sch as metal parts and other
heavy imprities which may otherwise case damage to expensive blow room and
carding machinery.
MPM:
&anfactrer, TrtBschler
sta=
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The mltiCmixer ensres a good blending at the beginning of the spinning process
which is essential for a niform distribtion and representation of all fibre
components into the yarn crossCsection. This needs to be achieved dring the
spinning processes as it cannot be achieved by the later processes alone. Proper
blending avoids variation in rnning conditions$ yarn strength$ niformity and dye
ta"eCp. The mltiCmixer is sally available in 6$ 8 or 7 chambers. In Vardhman$
there were two lines one containing the 8 chamber &P& and the other containing an
7 chamber &P&.
CVT-
&anfactrer, TrtBschler
This is another machine which is sed for cleaning of the material. First of all$ the
feed roller feeds the material inside the machine. Then it passes throgh three
spi"es beater of increasing spi"e intensity$ which carries ot the opening. It has a
color contamination sorter K++SL.
Gidth of the machine,
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SECUROMAT:
&anfactrer, TrtBschler
Foreign fibre detection ta"es place at the end of the blowroom line and directly
before the cards$ where the opening degree of the fibres has reached a maximm
vale$ the foreign parts$ however$ still exist in a coherent form.
The separation of the foreign parts is effected by means of ;5 compressed air
noBBles K
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CAR4IN$
&anfactrer, ?a"shmi /eiter
#o. &achines,
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The cylinder is having the main fnction of opening and cleaning the fibres.
The main fnction of the doffer is to collect the fibres from the cylinder and deliver
them in the form of a web. The fnction of the lic"erCin is brea"ing and opening of the
tfts of cotton and pass them onto the cylinder withot retaining any of them.
To get optimm performance from the varios elements of a card$ it is essential to
se the right type and right combination of wire clothing. The metallic wire particlars
which cold inflence the carding process are, wire width$ wire point density$ tooth
angle$ shape and height.
+arding performance can be improved by increasing the nmber of teeth cross wise
along the width of the card. This has led to the development of finer rib wires. The
doffer is clothed with a wire which has a higher trapping and holding power than the
cylinder wire. Ths it has a greater point density than cylinder wire.
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,'c)ine S-eci;ic'tions
C'linder Speed 694C944 rpmLi!kerin Speed
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PRE7CO,BIN$
Githin the overall spinning process$ the combing operation serves to improve the
raw material. Its se in the prodction of medim$ medim fine and fine yarns
enables a positive effect to be exerted primarily on the following yarn characteristics,
arn evenness arn strength
+leanliness
Smoothness Visal appearance
0limination of short fibres prodces an improvement mainly in the staple length of
the fibre$ bt it also affects the fineness of the raw material. Since noil is on average
finer than the original raw material$ the micronnaire vale of the combed sliver is
slightly higher than that of the feed stoc". The varios machines sed are,
Sli0e( &'- ,'c)ine
&anfactrer, ?a"shmi
It is the preparatory process for combing. The basic prpose of this machine is to
mix different card can slivers$ for homogeneos mixing to ensre niformity amongthe fibers. It is sed to convert the leading hoo"s into trailing hoo"s. It also eliminates
wastes. Drafting arrangement N 68
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,'c)ine s-eci;ic'tions
Linear $ensit' o# Sli*er ed 6.7 gmm"ate o# eed 39C
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This machine performs the combined fnction of sliver lap and ribbon lap. Its ma'or
advantage is that it ta"es less time than the two machines combined.
CO,BIN$
&anfactrer, ?a"shmi /eiter
&odel, 036
#mber of &achines, :
The main ob'ectives are,
0limination of short fibres
0limination of remaining imprities
0limination of large proportion of neps Straight and paralleliBation of fibres
The inpt of this machine is 7 laps. The waste of coming is termed as @noil @.
The lap is passed throgh a top comb which has got 58 needles or pins per cm. The
fnction of this top comb is to catch the short fibres ot of the lap. It is followed by
another brsh roller which consists of plastic bristles on its srface to catch the fibres
flying arond. After the combing action$ the laps pass throgh three sets of rollers$ of
which top ones are covered with rbber and bottom ones are made of steel. The
material then passes throgh a condenser acting as a gide and calendar roller to
form a sliver. Top clearer is present in the machine to ta"e care of the fly being
generated.
,'c)ine S-eci;ic'tions
,um&er o# eads 7Length o# a!hine 9.
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Tec)nic'l S-eci;ic'tions
,oil +er!entage 7C59Eeed Lap Weight 85.9 gmmeed Lap Width ;44 mmeed Lap $iameter (max) 694 mm$eli*er' Speed ;5 mminLength o# Sli*er in .ne Can 6444 m-ime -aken #or .ne Can
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4RA3 FRA,E
&anfactrer, ?a"shmi
&anfactrer, /I0T0/
The main ob'ectives areJ
ParalleliBation and e)aliBation of fibres.
Dobling *lending
/emoval of hoo"s
/edcing the co N efficient of variation among the fibres
There are two types of drawframes,
Single )e'd, in which one can is formed from dobling of 8 slivers.
4o/le )e'd, in which two cans are formed. 0ach can is from dobling of six slivers.
&ain featres of /S* drawframe are,
It is e)ipped with atomatic can changer system.
It featres an ato leveller. A particlar fineness vale for the sliver is being set in
the machine. Variation of O
K
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?D-8,um&er o# $eli*eries 5Can Changing S'stem Atomatic"oller Weighing PnematicCalendar "ollers Weighing Pnematic
Can $iameter
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4(';ting, it is the process where the sliver is attenated by means of exerting
a pll on it with sets of rollers. This process ensres that the sliver increases
in length and the mass per nit length is decreased. Twisting it is the process where the attenated sliver is given rotational
twists by means of the rotator movement of the spindle Ro0ing, it is the otpt of the speed frame. It ta"es a highly redced
thic"ness Kmass per nit lengthL in comparison of the sliver. The roving is
stored on bobbins and these forms the feed pac"age for the ring frame.
The existence of the speed frame is 'stified by the fact that the sliver cannot be fed
directly to the ring frame$ firstly de to the very high draft re)irement at ring frame
and secondly$ de to the very large space re)irement in ring frame section.
Therefore$ the need for the speed frame is to impart draft to the sliver to prepare it
for the ring frame and twist to provide strength to roving.
&ain parts of speed frame,
C(eelN =ere$ the cams carrying the D.F. sliver are being placed. The fnction
of creel is to let the sliver reach the drafting Bone$ withot any obstrction the
drafting Bone$ withot any obstrction. The drafting Bone$ withot any
obstrction$ the main parts of creel are as follows,
C(eel (olle(s, it consists of sliver gides$ which rotate with the help of creel
roller. Sli0e( g/ide, sliver gide sholdnt be worn ot so that the sliver doesnt get
abraised de to friction.
4(';ting GoneN this is the main portion of the machine$ where the thic" sliver
is converted into thinner one by applying appropriate draft. Its main parts are
as follows, Sli0e( g/ide, the sliver from the creel reaches first to the sliver gide of the
drafting Bone. This gide is located on a traverse plate. Its siBe and color
varies acc. To the sliver han". The gide sholdnt be worn ot and no cotton
fibres shold be trapped in between. Bottom d(';ting (olle(s, there are three rollers made of steel arranged at
e)al distances according to the length of the machine,
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;. bac" bottom roller
All the other parts of the machine which are re)ired to provide draft to the
sliver rotate with the help of these rollers.
Nose'( -l'te 'nd s-'ce(N In between the front and middle bottom roller$
lies a plate which is called nosebar plate. -n this plate lies a s)are shaped
piece made of Al$ which is called spacer. The siBe of the spacer varies
according to the roving han". Its siBe N no. KIn mmL is mentioned over its
srface itself. This spacer decided the gap between the 5 aprons. In a
machine$ all the spaces shold be of e)al siBe and any roving shold not be
made withot spaces$ as it wold affect the )antity of the roving
Bottom 'nd to- '-(onN *ottom apron rns between bottom roller$ nosebar
plate and tension plley. The tension plley provides proper tension to the
apron. In between these two aprons$ the sliver$ after drafting$ forms the roving.
That is why$ it is very important that the aprons shold not be worm ot or
loose. They shold be cleared p$ time N to time. So that they cold rn
withot any obstrction$ otherwise the no. of brea"ages can increase and the
)ality can deteriorate.
To- '(mN The arm placed over the bottom rollers is called top arm$ which
consists of ; rollers, front pair$ bac" pair and cradle rollers. The top arm
presses the top rollers over the bottom ones$ then pnematic pressre
becase of which the slivers$ after passing throgh the drafting Bone$ ta"e the
form of roving. The top arm shold be cleaned reglarly for good )antity.
S-indle -'(tsN S-indle, spindles are positioned in front of the top arm on a rail. Spindles are
rn throgh gear mechanism. *obbin and flyer are placed on the spindle. To
rotate the bobbin separately$ the bobbin rail also consists of gears. The bobbin
rail move p and down throgh Qbilding motion becase of which the roving
gets wond over the bobbin. Fl=e(, the part which helps to wind the roving over the bobbin is call flyer. A
Qtwist master is placed over it$ which helps in imparting twist to the roving$
which comes from the drafting Bone. There is a finger on one side of the flyer
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which "eeps the roving nder pressre while it is being wond over the
bobbin. Se-'('to(, the steel plate lying between drafting Bone and flyer is termed as
separator$ which prevents the mingling of bro"en roving with the ones$ nearby.
&achine sholdnt be rn when separator is down position.
$e'(ing -'(ts, gears are placed on the right side of the machine$ which are
responsible for providing necessary motion to the different necessary motion
to the different parts of the machine. F'nit is placed on the left side of the machine. There is a separate motor for
rnning the fan. *elow each delivery lies a sction pipe$ whose other end
goes to the sction dct. Inside the dct$ there are 5 photocells. *ecase of
the fan$ sction is generated in the whole dct. *ecase of which bro"en
roving gets sc"ed inside. The moment$ this roving passes in between the 5
photocells$ the machine stops atomatically. The waste of the fan mst be
cleaned time to time.
FA%&TS OC%RRIN$ IN SPEE4 FRA,E
Simple Machine
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The main falts that occrs in the otpt of speed frame are as follows
A. 4o/le (o0ing, when$ one roving brea"s and clings to the srronding roving$
while the machine is in rnning position.
/easons,
?ess amont of pressre in the sction tbe.
The sction tbe gets clogged becase of cotton flff
Separator is not positioned correctly
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*. C/ts in t)e (o0ing,
/easons,
+ts in the sliver dring drawframe only
Incorrect N pressre of the top arm.
/bber of top roller is having cts or worn ot
Gorn ot apron
Gorn ot twist master and flyer finger.
+. %nd(';ted (o0ing,
/easons,
?ess pressre from top arm
Incorrect setting of temperatre and hmidity
Incorrect setting of brea" draft$ gage$ spacer etc. according to the
re)ired cont.
H'(d oin,
/easons,
?ess pressre on bac" rollers therefore thic" roving
high tension on the roving
more twist in the roving than the re)ired amont
D. So;t oin,
/easons,
less tension in the roving
less twist in the roving than the re)ired amont
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0. Flied 'nd ;l/;;ed oinJ
/easons,
in calclation of fly and flff from the srrondings into the roving
ncovered draw frame cans
not cleaning the rac"s and trolleys where bobbin are to be placed
F. St'ined oin,
/easons,
not cleaning the grease or oil on the machine dring maintenance cleaning
ncleaned hands of the wor"ers
dropping the bobbins on the floor
,'c)ine S-eci;ic'tions
,um&er o# Spindles
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#mber of &achines, 56
In the /ing Frame department$ yarns of re)ired cont are made from the bobbins.
=ere$ draft is being provided with the help of rollers and then twist is being imparted
with the help of spindle wond$ side by side. So$ the yarns made by this method are
wond on the ring bobbin.
Parts of a /ing Frame &achine are as follows,
C(eelN this is the top most part of the machine where the speed frame bobbin
is monted. The varios parts of the creel are ,
Boin )olde(, on the bobbin holder$ the simple bobbin holder$ the simple
bobbin is monted. It is denoted that the bobbin is monted properly and the
holder is not clogged. If it is so$ the roving will not be fed properly and there
might be some tension which can case brea"age and neps formation. C(eel (od, it is present between the drafting and the bobbin holder. It acts as
a gide for carrying the roving. /oving shold always come from above the
gide rod. 4(';ting 6oneN This is the most important one of the machine. =ere the
roving is stretched to from the yarn. Its varios parts are , Ro0ing g/ide, it is sed to gide the roving to the centre of the roving might
move otside the roller srfaces and generate waste. It is monted near the
bac" roller. Bottom (olls, the machine has three bottom rolls. -n top of the set of bottom
rolls$ there is the top arm. The top arm also has ; rollers and a cradle. The
cradle has spacers. Bottom '-(on To- '-(on, bottom apron is monted on the middle roller
and cradle of the bottom roller set. Top apron is monted on the middle roller
and cradle of the top arm. -n these aprons$ the roving thread opens p to
ta"e the form of final yarn.
S-indle 6oneN
S-indle, This is an important part of the machine which rotates with the helpof the spindle tape. This always rotates in the centre of the ring and the
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bobbin is lifted on it. If the spindle tape is not tightly$ attached the spindle may
stop. Ring 'nd Ring T('0ele(, it is a metallic ring on which the traveler holds the
yarn and moves along the periphery. The spindle moves p and down and
hence the bobbin gets filled. &'-/t )ook 'nd l'-/t ('il, before the thread gets wond on the bobbin it
passes throgh the lapt hoo". It shold have a proper gage. $e'(ing 6oneN this has all the gears and wheels which need to be oiled and
maintained. This area shold always be "ept covered to prevent the entry of
flff. F'n 6oneN this Bone consists of the main motor and the fan. *ecase of the
rotation of the fan at a high speed$ sction is generated and waste is sc"ed$
which gets collected in the waste box. Ghen this box gets filled completely$ all
the waste shold be ta"en ot from the box and it shold be cleaned so as to
avoid any chance of 'amming in the fan and parts malfnctioning. Jocke= P/lle= 'nd 4(/m P/lle= 6oneN the setting of the 'oc"ey plley
shold be correct$ otherwise the tape bar wold become ot of trac". It shold
not get 'ammed$ so it is cleaned from time to time. O0e()e'd Blowe( 6oneN the pressre with which the blower throws the air
shold not be bloc"ed with flff and they shold be properly set$ otherwise it
wold affect the )ality.
4i;;e(ent Colo/( Boins 'nd T)ei( Im-o(t'nce
In ring frame$ bobbins of different colors are sed li"e, red$ yellow$ ble$ white
etc. the color of bobbin varies according to the cont of yarn. Ghile the
prodction with bobbins of one color is going on$ the bobbins of other colors
shold be sed$ otherwise the mixing of varios varieties will occr and )ality
will get deteriorated. The weight of speed frame bobbin varies from
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,ing %rame
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,'in F'/lts T)'t Occ/( In Ring F('me
A! "O""IN FAULTS:
KiL Ring c/t 'nd l'ck oinSometimes$ the thread gets ct by the ring and
sometimes it gets ct by the ring and sometimes it gets blac"ened becase of the
ring. The main reasons of its occrrence are,
Improper setting of bobbin over the spindle becase of the
accmlation of hard waste over the spindle -ccrrence of doble roving in the speed frame bobbin Slight displacement of ring of ring rail.
KiiL Bottom s-oiled oin, if the yarn in the bobbin comes ot from the bobbin
and gets entangled then it is called bottom spoiled bobbin. Its main reasons are as
follows.
Improper setting of spindle
Improper setting of bobbin on spindle de to carelessness
Improper setting of bobbin on spindle de to tight bottom portion of the
bobbin
Improper setting of the reel rail
KiiiL O0e( ;illed oins, if the yarn from the pper position of the bobbin gets
entangled$ then it is called over filled bobbins. /easons,
>sing small bobbin than the re)ired siBe.
The machine still "eeps on rnning even when doff has been achieved.
KivL So;t oin,
?ess twist in the yarn becase of rotation of lower speed de to any reason.
?ess tension of traveller acc. to the cont.
KvL st'ined oin, reason , #ot wiping off the oil H grease.
>ncleaned hands of the wor"er.
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"! YARN FAULTS:KiL 4o/le (o0ing, &ingling of bro"en roving with the neighboring rovings of the creel.
&alfnctioning of sction tbe becase of bloc"age de flff.KiiL 3e'k ='(n,
-ccrrence of single roving in the speed frame bobbin.
?oose tape
+t tape
KiiiL*'(n wit) ;l/;;,
Inclcation of flff from the environment into the yarn.
Improper cleaning of the drafting Bone H other parts.
Dirty speed frame candrm.
>ncovered drmscans.
&alfnctioning of overhead blowers.
KivL*'(n sl/, yarn shold be niform in diameter. *t at some places$ the yarn
become fller$ where twist becomes less and the strength of the yarn redcesJ
which is called slb.
Improper pressre from the top arm.
Apron which is being ct.
Improper setting of the spacer.
KvL Ne--= ='(n, In the blow room$ de to the formation of bnches of fibres
which occr on the srface$ this defect arises. To reglate this$ care is ta"en
at blowroom$ carding and combing department.
KviL*'(n wit) t)ick 'nd t)in -l'ces, the yarn thic"ness shold be niform
everywhere$ bt when thic" H thin places arise in the yarn$ with the length
varying from 7C
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,'c)ine S-eci;ic'tions
Spindle eight 564 mmSpindle $iameter at -op
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3IN4IN$ SECTION
arn prodced in the ring frame in the form of bobbins is ta"en into the winding
section for the formation of large pac"age which is easily transported and varios
falts are removed dring the winding operation sch as thic" places$ thin places
and neps.
After winding$ the pac"age shold not contain the falts. The strength$ elongation at
brea" point and appearance shold not be altered and the )ality of splicing shold
be good. The weight of the cone prodced is 5.49 N 5.69 "g and
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The bobbins are attached on the spools and when the bobbins get exhasted$ new
bobbin is attached manally after every bobbin change$ splicing is done by the
machine for the identification of the conts of yarns. The machine follows the
following detection mechanism,
0lectronic sensors which detect the yarn brea"age and stop the machine.
This is done throgh capacitors.
,'c)ine S-eci;ic'tions
,um&er o# $rums on the a!hine 84
,um&er o# Bo&&ins on the Creel 9$istan!e Bet1een -1o Spindles
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(nspection o cones under 7" light
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CON4ITIONIN$
+onditioning of the cones is done manally$ i.e.$ room conditioning. The moistre
percent in the cotton yarns comes ot to be 3.6E. The material after conditioning
remains for
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Dorella Machine= set o cones are put in the machine or moisture
regaining
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PAC5IN$ SECTION
According to the re)irement of the byer$ the yarn pac"age is made as cone or
cheese form. Frther the yarn pac"ages are pac"ed in the following ways,
P'lette P'cking
This is done on resable palettes which are wooden stands on which the
cones are "ept in layers. After each layer of cones a cardboard is placed on
which frther cones is placed. The total weight of the palette is approximately
394 "g. This palette pac"ing is more cost effective as the cost incrred is only
of the cardboard sheets and plastic sheets. The following description is
mentioned on each palette.
+ont
?ot no.
#et weight
!ross Geight
0xcise no.
Date
!alette !acking
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C'(ton P'cking
The cones can be pac"ed in cartons. The following description is mentioned
on each carton.
Description
+ont #e
0xcise no.
+arton no.
!ross weight
#et weight
?ot no.
&he carton packing is less cost e3ective as the cartons are not
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&ixingK?aydownL
F variety o fbers) depending upon the output) are mied so as to make themuniorm.F Sandwich laydown takes place wherein a 49=/9 ratio o regular and high bulk fber is
laid.
GillowingF (nput= Small bale tut) 6utput= 6pen fber tut
+arding
F Separation o each and every fberF Sliver preparation
F (nput= 6pen sliver tut) 6utput= Card Sliver
?evellingK!ill *oxL
F (ncreasing uniormity o fbersF !arallelising the fbers
Simplex&achine
F (nput= 7niorm Sliver) 6utput= ,oving
/ingFrame
F&he drat is made according to the count o rovingFEarn is made out o roving.
Atoconer
F ,emoval o unwanted deormities o yarn and converting the ring rame yarn into abigger package
+heeseGinding
F %or plied yarns
TF-F&wo %or 6ne twister where plied yarns are twisted in order to achieve the output.
/eeling
F :ither the yarn is packed ater this or it is sent to the dyeing house in the orm ohanks.
PROCESS F&O3 OF 3ORSTE4 SPINNIN$
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3I&&O3IN$
#mber of machines, nli"e the cotton spinning process$ in the worsted process Kwhere we to have to
process only synthetic fibresL$ there is no need of cleaning the fibres as they are
manmade.
Synthetic fber is ed in the 1illow Machine or opening and
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CAR4IN$
&anfactrer, Thibea$ Tatham and =ergeth
&odel #mber, +AC8
#mber of machines, 9
The carding process aims at forming a sliver. The fibres are individalised by means
of an extensive arrangement of nmeros cylinders. These are arranged so as to
open p the fibres to the optimm and ltimately to separate each single fibre.
The carding machines sed are @Thibea KmanfactrerL aero feed cards. These
cards are fed by means of pipes$ which are connected$ to the willow machine.
Inside these machines$ exists a complex arrangement of cylinders of varios siBes
and this arrangement is designed to optimally open the fibres. The otpt of these
machines is a sliver$ i.e.$ a loose rope of totally individalised fibres. This sliver is
stored in cans for transportation to the gill boxes.
3eig)t o; C'(d Sli0e( ;4C;9 "g
Fi(es %sed
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&EVE&&IN$ >$I&& BO9?
&anfactrer, Schlmberger
#mber of &achines,
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#o. of Faller 5 x 35Delivery +ans
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SI,P&E9
&anfactrer, #S+
#mber of &achines, ;
&odel #mbers, F&VC;5 K5 nmbersL$ F&C3 K< nmberL
The speed frame performs three ma'or fnctions,
Drafting, it is the process where the sliver is attenated by means of exerting
a pll on it with sets of rollers. This process ensres that the sliver increases
in length and the mass per nit length is decreased. Twisting, it is the process where the attenated sliver is given rotational twists
by means of the rotary movement of the spindle
Simple Machine
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/oving, it is the otpt of the speed frame. It ta"es a highly redced thic"ness
Kmass per nit lengthL in comparison of the sliver. The roving is stored on
bobbins and these forms the feed pac"age for the ring frame.
The existence of the speed frame is 'stified by the fact that the sliver cannot be fed
directly to the ring frame$ firstly de to the very high draft re)irement at ring frame
and secondly$ de to the very large space re)irement in ring frame section.
Therefore$ the speed frame imparts draft to the sliver to prepare it for the ring frame
and twist to provide strength to roving.
,'c)ine S-eci;ic'tions
,um&er o# $ra#ting Elements
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RIN$ FRA,E
&anfactrer, Ishi"awa
#mber of &achines, 58
This is the stage where the yarn is finally formed. The ring frame gives the final draft
and the twist to the roving received from the speed frame.
The mechanism sed consists of three sets of rollers for drafting and spindles for
providing twist to the yarn.
,ing %rame
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The process is carried ot with the help of rollers and the roving is drafted to a
re)isite mass per nit length. It also imparts the re)ired twist to the yarn throgh
the rotation of the spindle. The spindles have a very high rate of revoltions per
minte. This and some other criteria are ad'sted so as to ac)ire a definite level of
TPI$ i.e.$ twist per inch length of yarn.
The inpt in the ring frame is the roving received from the speed frame. This roving
is ltimately converted to @yarn.
,'c)ine S-eci;ic'tions
,um&er o# Spindles 644$ra#ting S'stem ;Bo&&in Length 554 mmSpindle Length 564 mmCapa!it'
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A%TOCONER
&anfactrer, (ehlafhor't and &rata
#mber of &achines, 8
The bobbins from the ring frame mc are collected in containers after their doffing
point has reached. In each container$ a doff slip is pt. This slip is important as it
contains the following details,
Spindle no.
&achine no.
+ont
Time
Date
#ame
This is important as the person is loading the bobbins for identifiable falts. Also they
are important for cont identification. 0ach order has a specific color bobbin allotted
to its lot. After this$ the trolleys are sent to the Atoconer &achines. This has the
fnction of forming bigger pac"ages in the form of cones which can be sed for
dobling and then twisting on the T.F.-.
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,'c)ine S-eci;ic'tions
anu#a!turer (ehlafhor't,um&er o# a!hines 9,um&er o# eads in one a!hine 84$iameter o# 2arn 3uide $rum :9 mmWidth o# Spli!ing Cham&er ;.9 mm+a!kage $iameter (maximum) ;58 mmCapa!it' 7.54"gspindleshift
Splicing is done side by side as the bigger packages are ormed
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TFO
&anfactrer, Vee'ay ?a"shmi
&odel #mber, V(
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,'c)ine S-eci;ic'tions
,um&er o# Spindles
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CHEESE 3IN4IN$
&anfactrer, Sarer Allma
#mber of &achines, 6
This step is carried ot in order to increase the twist of the yarn. The cheeses
prodced in the atoconer are wond onto bobbins sing this machine. A total of
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REE&IN$
This is the process which is carried ot in order to convert bobbins to han"s
depending pon the cstomers re)est. 0ach machine has 66 heads for preparing
66 han"s. Geight of the han" also depends pon the cstomers specifications.
#mber of &achines,
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PAC5IN$
For worsted spn yarns$ pac"ing is done in three ways,
=an" Pac"ing KAtomatic pac"erL +one pac"ing KPaletteL
+arton Pac"ing
uto packer
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FANC* *ARNS
Fancy yarns or novelty yarns are typically made of two or more strands which are
prodced to provide decorative srface effects. *ased on the prpose of yarn$ each
strand is referred to as the base yarn$ the effect yarn or the binder yarn.
The base yarn provides the strctre and strength$ the effect yarn creates a
decorative detail li"e loops and "nots and the binder yarn is sed to tie the effect
yarn and the base yarn if binding is necessary.
5?,= %lurry Earn) Boucle Earn) 5oop Earn
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Fancy yarns in Vardhman are prodced by for machines,
NEEDLE SPINDLE MACHINE
The effect yarn is ct by a blade so as to prodce the flrry effect after which it is
twisted with the base yarn.
&he triangular blade in the Needle Spindle Machine is usedto produce the %lurry e3ect
!roduction o %lurr Earn
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CROCHET MACHINE
This is a "nitting machine which wor"s on the principle of warp and weft yarn. The
yarn is firstly "nit and then it is ct by the blade in order to create effects li"e feather
and "nop. It is also sed to ma"e laces.
Crochet Machine
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HOLLOW SPINDLE FANCY TWISTER - EHP MACHINE
0=P machine is a mltiCprpose machine which is capable of prodcing most of
the effects. ?oop$ caterpillar$ bocle$ slb and "nop are some of them. These
effects are created by setting the speed of the drafts according to the effect
re)ired. For example$ for a loop effect$ the speed of the draft for base yarn
wold be lesser in comparison to the speed of the draft of the effect yarn. This
way more yarn is wond arond the base yarn in a shorter period of time creating
loops.
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ESP MACHINE
In this machine$ one yarn comes straight passing throgh the hollow spindle$
which is "nown as the base yarn$ while the other yarn which is the effect yarn is
wrapped arond the base yarn by a twister which moves arond the base yarn.
SE#UIN MACHINE
In this machine$ se)ins are added to the base yarn one by yarn or at reglar
intervals that are set depending on the re)irement. !arlands of se)ins are
loaded on the machine while the base yarn is fed from one side. -nce the
se)ins have been attached to the effect yarn it is twisted along with the base
yarn and finally wond on a cone.
SeIuins are kept on the top inside a very long inverted tube rom
where the seIuins are ed into the yarn periodically
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ASSI$N,ENT7 !
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Yarn from!"nn"n#$%&"on
YarnPr$!ara&"on
'ar!Pr$!ara&"on
'"n("n#
'ar!"n#
S")"n#
Draf&"n#*Dra+"n#
Loom"n#
'$f&Pr$!ara&"on
'"n("n#
'$a,"n#
AURO 'EA-ING MILLS(n uro weaving mills greige abric is produced. &he raw material is
provided by auro spinning mills.
&he uro weaving mills has the ollowing units in the production
department=
!reparatory unit
/ loom sheds
%olding and inspection unit
!lain) twill) satin) matt) oord) piIue cord weaves are produced on the
looms.
1et wise stretch abrics are also produced in uro weaving mills. (n wetcore spun yarns are used in which the core is o 5ycra.
$aily production o uro weaving mills? 9)999 ; -9)999 metres o
abric per day.
Pro%$ .o+ of +$a,"n#
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!,:!,&6,E 7N(&
&he preparatory unit has the ollowing sections=
1arping and rewinding section
SiHing section $rawing?in section
1,!(N+
&he process o arranging a convenient number o warp yarns that can be
collected in a sheet orm and wound on to a warperKs beam.
&he aim o warping is winding on one package to a certain number owarp?ends o a particular length. $uring warping) ends rom many winding
packages are wound on a common package to prepare a +ar! /$am.
R$"r$m$n& for +ar!"n#
&he tension o all wound ends must be uniorm and possibly
constant during all the time o withdrawal rom supply packages.
1arping should not impair the physical and mechanical properties o
the yarn.
&he tension should be moderate) to allow the yarn to completelyretain the elastic properties and strength.
&he surace o the warping package must be cylindrical.
predetermined length o the warping should be observed.
&he production rate o warping should be observed and it should be
as high as possible.
MACHINES USED
1arping machine= benniger ben?direct
No. o machines=
No. o bobbins= 4/9
Ma. Speed L -099 ,!M
,unning speed L 899?@99 ,!M
Creel capacity L 4/9 cones
1arp beam length L -899 m
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PROCESS
(n one warping machine only 4/9 threads can be wound on the warperKs
beam but the number o threads needed in the abric is much more than
that. So the number o threads is divided accordingly in a ratio and a
number o warp beams are created.
( warp must have mK threads) the total no. o ends as divided by a certain
no. NK no. o possibly eIual parts containing pK ends) which are wound on
a warping beam. 7pon warping nK beams with pK ends on each) a set o
beams with a total no. o ends mLp n is ormed which is necessary or
producing the given abric.
%or eample i the number o warp threads reIuired are -9)999. So) 09
warper beams are made each with 299 threads.
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Creel !ackage
Earn&ensioners
Earn stopmotionSensor
Earn guides
:pandingComb
+uide roller
1arperKsbeam
PASSAGE OF YARN IN DIRECT 'ARPING Ma%"n$
RE'INDING
,ewinding is done to utiliHe the remaining yarn in packages ater the
completion o warping beam and to orm big packages rom small
packages.
No. o rewinding machines= -
&ype= drum type winding
SI3ING
&he main purpose o siHing is to improve strength and abrasion resistance
o the warp yarns by causing the fbres to adhere together to make
smooth and to lubricate the warp yarns so that there is minimum riction
where they rub together various parts in the weaving process. SiHing
increases the abrasion resistance o the yarn. Soteners are added so the
yarn does not become brittle.
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SI3ING C$m"%a4
Starch
Binder
crylic base
Sotener
MACHINE
Machine= benniger siHing machine) sucker Muller siHing machine
No. o machines=
Creel capacity= 09
Ma. Speed = -02 M!M
,unning Speed = 9?89 M!M
PARTS OF SI3ING Ma%"n$
Creel Hone
SiHe bo
SiHe bo B
!re dryer
%inal dryer
1aing Hone
$ry split Hone
Comb
1eaverKs beam
Fa%&or A$%&"n# D$#r$$ of S")"n#:
Concentration
"iscosity o siHing liIuor
&emperature o siHing liIuor
Speed
SIueeHing pressure
T$ ")$ %om!o"&"on ($!$n( on man6 fa%&or:
&he fbrous materials which the yarn is made o3 &he twist o the yarn
5inear density o the yarn
Spinning method
&he density and pattern o weave o the abric to be produced
&ype o the weaving loom
Count o the yarn
DRA'ING7IN
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$rawing?in is the consecutive passing o warp ends through the drop
wires) healds and reed. $rawing?in is usually done manually and is time
consuming. $rawing?in is the fnal preparatory process.
Drop Pin
&he drop wire is a part o warp stop motion designated or stopping the
loom in case o warp breakage.
&he siHe and weight droppers depend on the linear density o the warp
yarn. +reater the warp linear? density) heavier must be the dropper.
Healds
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S$(("n#:1here the ends are separated by raising or lowering heald
rames #heddles' to orm a clear space where the pick can pass
P"%8"n#:1here the wet or pick is propelled across the loom by an air?jet)
a rapier or a shuttle
B$a&"n#7! or /a&&$n"n#:1here the wet is pushed up against the ell
o the cloth by the reed.
S$%on(ar6 Mo&"on
L$& o Mo&"on= where the warp is let o3 the warp beam at a regulated
speed to make the flling even and o the reIuired design
Ta8$ ! Mo&"on= &akes up the woven abric in a regulated manner so that
the density o flling is maintained
T$r&"ar6 Mo&"on: The stop motions: to stop the loom in the event of a
Thread break. The two main stop motions are the
1arp stop motion
1et stop motion
The principal parts of a loom are:
&he rame
&he warp?beam or weavers beam
&he cloth?roll
&he heddles and their mounting)
&he reed
MACHINES USED
"ardhman has / 5oom shed units. ll the units have air jet looms. ir jet
looms are shuttle less looms that use compressed air to propel the wet
thread.
ir jet looms are used or bulk weaving. (t reIuires an even yarn and good
Iuality o siHing. ir jet looms are used to produce basic weaves.
uro weaving mills have a total o 04/ air jet looms.
Count range= 9 9Oe to 89s singles)
#-9)-0)-/)-4)09)9)/9)29)49)9)89'#or lycra'
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A"r9$& 4oom:;2
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Jet looms take the wet yarn across the loom by using high speed air
blast noHHles.
&he drag orce o air carries the yarn rom one side to the other.
&he initial propulsion orce is provided by a main noHHle.
,elay noHHles #auiliary noHHles' along the shed produce additionalbooster jets to help carry the yarns across the loom.
&he abric width o air?jet loom is normally narrower than rapier or
projectile loom
Jet looms are aster than projectile or rapier looms #picks per
minute'.
other loom
parts
%or drawing yarns manually) use yarn drawer
*eep emergency button pressed i one has to work on loom
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Fo4("n# an( In!$%&"on
(n olding and inspection department the abric produced is inspected on
the basis o / point system and then olded or rolled as per customer
reIuirements and then the bales are sorted on basis o the number o
deects ound. &he bales are sorted in ) B and $ grades.
!urpose o this department is to check or deects on the woven abric roll.
&his is carried out on machines where the roll was monitored warp wise
against an illuminated background screen such that the lamina o the
abric was visible > the operator could stop > mark a deect where he
ound a deect in the abric.
> !o"n& INSPECTION S6&$m
5ength o deect in abric) either length or width points allotted
7p to inch -
6ver inch. 7p to 4 inch 0
6ver 4 inch upto @ inch
6ver @ inch /
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In!$%&"on
Fo4("n#*Ro44"n#
Ba4$
Sor&"n#
Ba4$Pa%8"n#
PROCESS FLO' OF FOLDING an( In!$%&"on
MACHINES
Inspection Machines
Machine= almac inspection machine
No. 6 machines= @
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ROLLING machines
Machine= lami l/29 #or 5ycra' and lami rolling machine #or 0 ply and
fne abrics'
No. 6 machines= 0
Folding MAHIN!"
Machine= lami olding machine
No. 6 machines= -
$eects noted $7,(N+ inspection
M"nor DEFECTS
Stain
Slub
Contamination
Ma9or ($f$%&
Bent pick
$ouble pick
&hick place
Stain mark
6ily wet
1et distortion
Stained pick
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&he deects are marked by tying a thread at the selvage where the deect
has occurred.
M
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1,!(N+S:C&(6N
$(,:C&1,!(N+
S:C&(6N51,!(N+
!reparatory 7nit
(n the preparatory unit the warp yarns are prepared or weaving. &he
preparatory unit consists o
1arping section and rewinding section
SiHing section
$rawing?in section
1arping S:C&(6N
D"r$%& +ar!"n#
(t is used or long runs o grey yarns) single colour yarns and simple
patterns o coloured yarns. (t can be used to make warp sheets. &he total
amount o coloured yarns involved is less than -2P o the total.
Suction devices are provided in between warping machines which suck all
the unwanted cotton fbres Gying.
MACHINES
MACHINE: Moenus Sucker +mbh#+ermany' Comwarp) Beninger
Ben?$irect
No. 6 machines= 0
Creel capacity= Moenus Sucker? 40 Beninger? 424
AM#I!NT ONDITION" IN $ARPING D!PARTM!NT
&emperature range= 0?9Qc ,elative humidity= 49?89P
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S (R (N+S : C & ( 6 N
S (R (N+* (&C
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!,:M(D:,!,:SS7,:
C66*:,S&6,+: ":SS:5
$,1(N+?(N $:!,&M:N&
MN75 $,1(N+?(N7&6M&(C $,1N+?
(N
1S
C5:N(N+ S:C&(6N
S")"n# ITCHEN
SiHe is prepared at the top Goor in the siHing kitchen and transerred to the
machine with the help pipes.
"i%ing APPART&"
"I'ING ingredients
&eoplast
Sonycryl
Mutton tallow
1ater
*etanol
ntistatic
S")"n# MACHINE
No. 6% MC Sectional Beam
Moenus Sucker= 6nly %or Sectional Beam.
"I'! PI( &P percentage
6pen :nd Earn?8P
Compact Earn?-0P
Carded Earn? -4P
Combed Earn? -4P
$,1(N+?in S:C&(6N
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(,J:& 566MS#0/A--8'
&S7$*6M RD
&S7$*6MRD@-99
,!(:, 566MS#4A/A0'
!(CN65 +&D
!(CN65 +MMD
$6,N(:, +!D
&otal loom = 00/
irjet looms = -/0 ,apier looms = 80
$rawing?in is the fnal preparatory process. uto drawing=
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+aiting is to replace old weaverKs beam) drop wires) healdwires) and reed
with new one.
Machine= +:N*(N+:,
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$esigning plays an important role in marketing. t "ardhman) the people
who are in marketing deal with the customer and gives the designing
department about what is to be made and what is the demand o the
customer. Marketing sector gives the designing department inormation
regarding the sales.
"ardhman (ndustries creative department mainly deals with the designing
and development o checks and stripes and creative abrics with di3erent
weaves or suiting and shirting. &o achieve this) the unit ollows a certain
procedure.
!,6C:SS
Samples are made)
Sent to the Customers)
&he demand is identifed)
nd the reIuired design and Iuantity are supplied.
C:N&,5 !,6$7C& $:":56!M:N& C:N&:
#C!$C'
&his is the main head o the design and prototype department o
"ardhman &etiles. (t has main departments unctioning under it)
-. C$C= Creative $esign Cell0. !$C= !roduct $evelopment Cell. !ilot !lant
&he !ilot !lant has SiHing machines) / warping machines and -4 looms.
&hey deal with all types o yarns such as) "iscose) 5inen) cotton) polyester)
polyester cotton mi) core spun yarn #CSE') etc.
&he C$C department works on 0 seasons per year. part rom that) they
have the routine development team that unctions throughout the year on
trending designs and trends.
!,6$7C& $:":56!M:N& C:N&:,
,esearch
Selection o raw material
!rocess control
!rocess development !roduct testing
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Tuality assurances
Specifcation tests
(NS&,7M:N&S 7S:$ (N , > $ 5B
&ension meter) $igital thread counter ) 1eighing scale) Circular cutter)
Stirrer) &achometer) Shore hardness tester) Earn appearance tester)
utomatic twist tester) Single yarn strength) tester) Bess lay balance)
$esiccators) Moisture meter) &earing strength tester) 5ea strength tester)
,eract meter.
7,6 &:D&(5:S",$
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&he raw material or 7,6 &:D&(5:S Comes rom
uro 1eaving Mills
Mahavir Spinning Mills
+reige abric or piece dyed abric comes rom both uro spinning millsand Mahavir spinning mills. Earn dyed abric comes only rom Mahavir
spinning mills.
Aro T$&"4$ a for ma9or ($!ar&m$n&
-. !ersonnel > (, $epartment.
0. Commercial $epartment.. :ngineering $epartment./. !roduction $epartment.
T$ !ro(%&"on ($!ar&m$n& of Aro &$&"4$ " (","($( "n&o &$
fo44o+"n# $%&"on:
!reparatory section
$yeing section
%inishing section
(nspection and olding
&echnical section
!reparatory section
&he %abric rom the mills is received in the ollowing %orms=
,oll %orm
Bale orm
!allet orm
%irstly the grey cloth is send to technical department where the physicaland chemical testing o grey cloth takes place. ter testing o cloth) all
the reason is written in the dispo sheet by technical department and a
copy o all is send to all the concerned departments and now it is ready
or grey checking which is eamined on grey checking machine.
&hen abric ends are stitched so that a abric batch o longer length is
ormed. &his acilitates that processing can be carried out continuously.
&he abric ends are stitched together with help o stitching machines.
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&he abric received by uro tetiles contains many natural and chemical
impurities which have to be removed to increase the dye aWnity o the
abric and to add value to the abric.
PROCESSESS DONE "n &$ PREPARATORY SECTION 6pening and stitching o abric
!re?treatment
MerceriHation
Mechanical fnishes #seuding'
T6!$ of &"&%"n# ma%"n$&here are two types o stitching machine depending upon the type o the
abric.
!(C*S: MOC= ? 0 &hread #Japan' #or normal fnished material'
J7*( MOC= ? 2 &hread #Japan' #those material which are going to be
peached'
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!,:?&,:&M:N&
&he pre?treatment o abric is done to remove impurities) add value to the
abric and enhance its appeal.
!,6C:SS %561 6% !,:&,:&M:N&
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SINGEIN
G
DESI3IN
G
SCOURI
NG
BLEACHI
NG
'ASHIN
G
DRYING
Singeing
Singeing is the burning o3 o loose fbres sticking out o tetile goods. (t is
usually the frst step carried out ater weaving. Singeing is done through a
Game produced by propane and air.
Pr!o$
Clean abric surace
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,educe pilling
(ncreased wet ability.
(mproved visibility o the abric structure
$ecreased contamination through removal o Gu3 and lint.
MACHINES
No. o machines= 0
Machine -=
6stho3? senge #+ermany'
Speed= 9 metres per min
No. o burners= 0
!ressure= -0 milli bar
Machine 0=
Sando iron #Japan'
No. o burners= /
No. 6 Burners=/
+as 7sed= !ropane > air miture #82=-2'
ngle o gas burners= /2Q
&emp. 6 Game= rom 299 9C to -899 9C
No. 6 cooling cylinders= 2
!ressure o steam in 0 drying cylinders= 0 kgOcmsI.
No. 6 brushing rollers= 4pairs#moving in direction opposite to
abric'
S!$$( of fa/r"% a%%or("n# &o &$ fa/r"% a4"&6
SNo
FABRIC UALITY SPEED m*m"n@
- Bottom weight 49 ; 9
0. &op weight #Shirting' @9 ; -99
%or 0 ply 29?9
/ Earn dyed -09
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$e?siHing and Scouring
D$")"n# is the process o removing the siHe material rom the warp yarns
in woven abrics. &he siHe applied on the abric makes abric hydrophobic
and all other processing is carried in water as the medium so it isnecessary to remove the siHe.
S%or"n#::ven ater desiHing the abricKs absorbency is still the main
problem as it contains ats and waes #both added and natural'. &he main
purpose o scouring is to remove natural as well as added impurities
essentially o water repellent character as possible and make the abric
highly absorbent without damaging. (n the uro &etile desiHing and
scouring processes are conducted simultaneously at the same time in one
operation.
'a"n#: ter each washer) a nip roller and an epander roller is
provided) so that abric becomes ree o creases whenever it passes rom
one washer to another and also or the complete removal o impurities.
Pr!o$
,emoval o added impurities like starch
1eight loss
(mproved wet ability
TYPES OF DESI3ING
:nHymatic desiHing # or yarn dyed abrics'
6idative desiHing #or greige abric'
Pro%$
&he abric is frst washed with hot water in washer - to washer /. &he
temperature is @9 degree Celsius. $ue to the hot water wash 9?/9P siHe
is removed. &hen a cold wash is given to the abric in washer 2. &hen the
abric goes to the desiHing scouring saturator where it is padded with
chemicals and then sent to the reaction chamber? a where it is allowed tostay or some time so that the chemicals react with the abric. &he
scouring and desiHing chemicals are added in the same chamber.
C$m"%a4 $( "n DESI3ING %or"n# SATURATOR
Scouring agent= caustic soda# N6
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Ma%"n$
6ld perble machine= used or desiHing) scouring and bleaching
New perble machine= used or desiHing) scouring and bleaching
!ad steamer machine= used or enHymatic desiHing
Company= Sando iron #Japan' No. o machines=
Capacity o saturator tank= 299 lt.
CHEMICALS USED IN SATURATOR AND THEIR FUNCTIONS ARE
SODIUM PERSULPHATE: (t is an oidative $esiHing agent. &he
biggest advantage o using Sodium !ersulphate is its mode o
action. &he mode o action o !ersulphate is much aster and is
much more economical. &he padding o Sodium !ersulphate is doneat room temperature because o the act that other chemicals o the
saturator catalytically decompose it.
NaOH: (t is used as scouring agent or cotton abric.
SERRI 2UDI: (tKs a seIuestering agent
MORPON: (t is a wetting agent.
CONCENTRATION OF NaOH USED FOR DIFFERENT FABRIC
SNO FABRIC TYPE NAOH CONC GPL
-. -99P Cotton #BO1' 49
0. -99P Cotton 9s 29
. -99P Cotton #S
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!urpose
(mproved whiteness
5evel dyeing properties
Pro%$ter the reaction chamber? the abric is washed in hot water in washer -
to washer /. &hen the abric is given a cold wash in washer 2 to bring the
abric to room temperature. &hen the abric goes to peroide bleaching
saturator where it is padded with bleaching chemicals. &hen the abric
goes to reaction chamber?B where it is kept or some time so that reaction
takes place.
C$m"%a4 $( "n THE PEROIDE B4$a%"n# a&ra&or
Bleaching agent= hydrogen peroide Caustic soda= to make the p< alkaline
SeIuestering agent= to remove metallic particles which might tear
the abric
MACHINE
6ld perble range= bleaching with sodium hypochlorite
New perble range= bleaching with hydrogen peroide
C
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- -99P Cotton BO1 09 to 00
0 -99P Cotton #Shirting' -4
!olyesterOCotton -/
1ashing
&he abric ater passing through the pull out section o the reaction
chamber enters the our washers or e3ective washing. &emperature o
the washers is kept at 82 degree Celsius. &he counter current Gow o
water is used in all these washers so as to have a thorough washing o the
abric.
ter each washer there are nipping mangle) nip pressure o each washer
is kept to 0 ton. (n order to avoid ormation o creases the washers are
provided with an epander roll at their respective eits. ter every
washer is a dancer roll so as to maintain the adeIuate tension in the
abric. ter our washers there is a !laitor.
&his arrangement is in 65$ !:,B5: not in N:1 !:,B5:. &his !laitor is
used only when there is no urther processing like bleaching) or eample
abrics containing 5ycra are not chlorite bleached) so these are plaited at
this very stage. %or -99P cotton and !OC blends this !laitor is by?passed.
&he abric then passes through the cold washer so as to lower thetemperature to room conditions beore entering the chlorite saturator.
$,E(N+
&here are three "$,Ks to dry the abric. :ach o which consists o -9
drying cylinders) the last one consists o drying cylinders and cooling
cylinders) at the end) so as to cool the dried abric beore the !laitor plaits
it on the trolley. &he abric ater washing is passed through nip bowlshaving a pressure o 2 tons. &hen it passes through the frst drying range.
&he drying cylinders are steam heated. &he main steam pipe is having a
pressure o 4 kgOcm0 and so ar each drying range there is a pressure o 0
kgOcm0. :ach drying cylinder is provided with two steam lines. 6ne is or
heating the cylinders and other or removing ehaust steam. Cooling
cylinders are cooled with cold water.
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MerceriHation
MerceriHation is a treatment or cotton abric and thread mostly employed
to give cotton a lustrous appearance. Sodium hydroide #caustic soda
0/9gppl' is the chemical used in MerceriHation.
Pr!o$
(mprove dye aWnity and yield.
(mprove breaking strength.
(mprove dimensional stability.
(mprove chemical reactivity.
(mprove abric smoothness.
(mprove durability o abric
MACHINE
No. o machines= 0
Machine= sando iron merceriHation range #J!N'
!,6C:SS
&he abric ater the pre?treatment is sent or merceriHation. &he abric is
frst padded with caustic soda in caustic saturator - then the abric goes
to the timing cylinder where some time is given to the abric to react with
Na6
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FABRIC IS FEDUSING GUIDE
ROLLERS
CAUSTICSATURATOR 1
TIMINGCYLINDER
CAUSTICSATURATOR 2
TIMING
CYLINDER
FEED MANGLE
TENTER CHAIN
'ATERSHO'ERS :5@
'ASHER 17'ASHER ;
:HOT 'ASH@
'ASHER =:NEUTALI3ATIO
N@
'ASHER :COLD 'ASH@
-ERICAL
DRYING RANGE
PROCESS FLO' OF MERCERI3ATION
Mechanical %inishes #seuding'
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STITCHI
NG
PADDING 'ITH'ATER
DRYING
PASSING O-EREMERYROLLER
S
PASSING O-ER
BRUSHROLLER
PLAITER
Seuding or emeriHing fnish is given with a cylinder covered with emery in
order to make a raised nap even surace and give lustre to the abric.
&he abrasion due to the emery rollers gives the abric a smooth surace.
&he abric and the emery rollers move in opposite directions which causesabrasion o the abric surace.
MACHINES USED
No. o machines= 2
Machine -? /= etema #+ermany'
Machine 2= laer with 0/ drum rollers #(taly' #used or a more peached
surace'
Pro%$ .o+ of $("n#
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ASSI$N,ENT7 "
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*ARN 4*EIN$
At VA/D=&A#$*'(n d=eingis carried ot. &ostly han" dyeing is done.
ter sot packages o yarn are made the packages are loaded onto long
cylindrical rods which are mounted on the carrier. &hese rods have small
pores in it which allows movement o dyeing chemicals in and out during
dyeing process.
Earn dyeing can also be done in beam orm) i.e. instead o a cheeseY
beams o yarns are loaded in the carrier and dyed. &he beams o yarn
come rom Mahavir spinning mills and are dyed as it is and sent back or
weaving process.
&he cheeses have to be fed frmly in the carrier so that the packages are
not loosed during dyeing which causes uneven dyeing.
ter the dyeing process about 2 grams o yarn is sent or Iuality check) to
check whether the achieved shade is according to the customers demand
or not.
( not approved the dye recipe is corrected in the S!$M section #single
package dyeing machine' and the dyeing process or the bulk is again
carried out.
( approved then the cheeses are either dried in the rapid dryer or sent
urther to ,% dryer or drying.
&he beams are dried on the rapid dryer. &he whole carrier is ftted into the
dryer and the yarns are dried by means o heat.
"UL$IN%:
*l"ing is mainly done to give relaxation to the yarn$ which can otherwise create
problem of shrin"age in home landering.
To attain shrin"age at yarn stage.
To get even and better )ality yarns.
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To improve rnning characteristics of material.
*l"ing can be done by two methods
Gater bl"ing
Steam bl"ing
3'te( B/lking water bl"ing is done in a han" machine. The
temperatre in the machine is maintained at 74+. It ta"es abot
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&anfactrer, STAFFI N /.*. 0lectronics&achine Specifications,
Capa!it'
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HAN$ DYEIN% MACHINE- CA"INET DYEIN%:
#mber of &achines, ;5 K; are sample machinesL
&anfactrers, TngCShing$ ?orris *ellini$ Te"st
It is sitable of processing natral fibers$ synthetic and blends at temperatre lower
than
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&ain parts of machine
aL %ier bL Sampling devices
cL ?oaderdL Additional tan"eL +ooling water otletfL Steam trapgL Additional tan" drainhL Feed pmpiL Additional flow control'L Impeller"L Gater drainlL PlleymL Gater spply
nL +ooling water inlet direct heating
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HYDRO EXTRACTOR:
&anfactrer, &innetti Italia K-fficineL
#mber of &achines, 8
It is sed to remove excess water from han" after dyeing. It wor"s on the principle of
centrifgal force. The time re)ired to hydrate the cotton material is more than the
acrylic as cotton has more moistre regain than acrylic. If cotton is not properly dried
then it may create problems dring cone winding.
&achine Specifications,
Capa!it' 9 machines have ;4 "g capacity and $ department. &he temperature
o the dye is maintained with help o heating coils in the dissolving tank.
ter the fbre is dyed about 2 grams o dyed sample is sent or Iuality
checking) i the shade achieved is correct then rest o the processing is
carried on. ( not some corrections are made in the dye recipe and the
fbres are dyed again.
ter dyeing the water rom the fbres is etracted using a hydro etractor
and a cake is ormed. &he carrier is then emptied and the cake is placed
on the cake stand.
ter this the rest o the processing is done. %irst the cake o fbres is
broken in a cake breaker) i.e. the fbres are separated.
&hen the fbres pass through a series o tanks where washing is done so
that the etra dye is stripped o3. &he frst tank contains soap solution. (nthe second tank a hot wash is given. (n the net tank a cold wash is given
to bring the fbres to room temperature. (n the last tank sotening o the
fbres is done.
ter that the fbres are orwarded to the hopper 0 where the fbres are
slightly dried beore hydro etraction.
&hen water is etracted using hydro etractor. &hen again fbres are sent
to hopper where the fbres are separated rom each other. &hen tumble
dry is done.
ter tumble drying sorting o fbres is done) i.e. any fbres o di3erent
shade are taken out.
&hen the fbres are pressed and packed in a bale orm. &he bale contains
inormation like bale number) lot number) shade) siHe) weight etc.
END $
&he dyed fbres are used to create melange abrics. &hey are sent to
arihant spinning mills 5udhiana which is a part o "ardhman.
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LOADING AND PRESSING
PREPARATION OF DYE INTHE TAN
DYEING
UALITY CHEC
IF O HYDROETRACTION
EMPTYING OF CARRIER
CAE FORMED
C*: B,:*:,
1S
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Colour store
&he colour store has all the dyes used in the dyeing o fbres and yarns.
&he dye recipe is prepared in the colour store or bulk dyeing. 1hen an
order is placed the , > $ department prepares a colour recipe accordingto the colours available in the colour store. ter the recipe is tested it is
converted or bulk dyeing. &he recipe is given to the colour store where it
is prepared and given to the dyeing section.
SOME DYE Com!an"$
JakaHol
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the material going to the customer so that there are no complaints
regarding the Iuality o the product.
ASSI$N,ENT7 #
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,ATERIA& 4EPART,ENT
The main fnction of the material department is to procre the raw material in the
form of bales for the spinning process$ pac"ing material$ electrical material$ electrical
material$ machine spare parts$ oil and lbricants$ fel and bilding material$
frnitre and fixtres and administration e)ipments. It helps in providing the varios
re)est made by all the departments in an effective and efficient way so that there is
no wastage of time.
This department ensres that the nit never falls short of raw material wherever
re)ired. The process flow is as follows,
The corporate office at ?dhiana receives orders from varios byers for yarn
of specific cont and yarn
The office then allots the nits with the fnction of prodction needed to be
carried ot e.g. if the byers demand acrylic yarn$ the office will provide nit< with
the amont of yarn cont to be prodced.
The nits then sbmit their yearly re)irement of cotton or other raw material.
Their estimate of re)irement is calclated with the 0/P system. The 0/P system is
fed with all the details li"e, prodction per shift and material re)irement according to
the co