ROUTE TO QUALITY

MATERIAL TESTING

Ankur Saxena

Testing ensures that a product meets the buyers contractual requirements

Fitness for purpose or intended use

It ensures that the product meets the legal and regulatory criteria of the country of Import.

What is TESTING ?

Is TESTING

a PAIN or

GAIN ?

CONFIRMS the quality of textile merchandise ,

at any point in the production chain & REDUCES costly mistakes

LIMITS any Customer Liability

GAINS Continuous Orders

Gets you PEACE of Mind

Above all

11 22

4433

TestingTesting

a a PROCESSPROCESS

not

an an ACTIVITYACTIVITY

Country StandardU.S.A. AATCC, ASTMCanada CANAustralia ASJapan JISGermany DINU.K. BSEurope ENIndia ISInternational ISO

Testing Standards Testing Standards

Different Markets haveDifferent Markets have different testing requirementsdifferent testing requirements

International Standards for Textile Testing

AATCC - American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists

ASTM - American Society for Testing and Materials

ISO - International Organization for Standardization

BS - British standards DIN - Deutsches Institut fur Normung CAN - Canadian Norms JIS - Japanese Industrial Standards EN - European Norms

Sample Conditioning Sample Conditioning controls the

moisture content in test sample

& ensures reliable

results

EquipmentEquipment Right Selection of Equipment Is essential for performing the tests based on testing method & country of destination

Instrument Calibration Instrument Calibration needs to be done periodically.

It is essential for optimum performance

of testing machine & Accuracy of results

Result EvaluationResult EvaluationInvolves assessment by

trained color technologists&

experts in

Dark Room

Accreditation Accreditation

Recognition

by International and National Technical bodies,

for quality systems and processes.National Accreditation Board for Testing and Calibration Laboratories

Testing ensures that a product meets the buyers contractual requirements

Fitness for purpose or intended use

It ensures that the product meets the legal and regulatory criteria of the country of Import.

What is TESTING ?

Fitness for purpose or

intended use Color should not fade on repeated

washing.

Color should not fade when exposed to sun

It should not shrink or expand too much after washing.

Appearance should remain same as original on usages.

Meets Functional properties Antibacterial, Stain Release etc Better comfort – Moisture management Wrinkle Free - Easy Care

Safety

Small Part

Sharp points and edges

Button, Snap etc.: pull test

Drawstring, Tie etc.

To avoid potential hazards for the user which become apparent on everyday use, especially the children

Child Safety Tests

Potential Choking Hazards due to -

Filling material like Pellets in bean bags ( due to seam failure or malfunctioning of zipper lock system)

Swallowing Small parts like buttons or embellishments

Strangulation Hazard – Draw Strings Sharp Edges and Sharp Points

Accidentally left in filling material of cushions etc. Metallic accessories like zippers or buttons

In response to ever changing governmental regulation, regulatory testing is essential to minimize risk and protect the interest of both manufacturers and consumers.

Let us see certain legality issue which have become important.

Compliance with Government Regulations

Legality Issues

Fiber Identification – Most countries importing apparel and soft home furnishing products require fibre identification labels that indicate the fibre type and percentage of fibre components.

Some countries even use fibre composition to classify quota categories.

Different fibers have different import duty structure.

Purpose – to protect both consumers and producers from deceptive advertising and mislabeling of textiles and clothing.

Fibre Content Labeling

Regulation RequirementsRegulation Requirements

Only Fibers > 5% are permitted on labelFibers < 5% must be disclosed as “Other Fiber” or “Other Fibers”

97% Cotton3% Other Fiber

97% Cotton3% Silk

Fiber Content Labeling

Regulation RequirementsRegulation Requirements

96% Cotton4% Spandex

96% Wool4% Nylon

Exception: unless functional

Stretch Strength

Legality Issues

Care Label Instructions – Many countries have mandatory or voluntary standards for care label instructions that apply to apparel or soft home furnishing products.

Reasonable Basis -You must have proof or testing certificate that the method recommended is the best method for that garment.“Dry Clean Only” means washing will damage the garment.

Care Labeling Regulation Requirements

Care Label Must Contain: Washing Method & Temperature Washing Cycle (Normal, Gentle, etc.) Bleach Instruction Drying Method & Temperature Ironing Instruction Warnings if necessary

Care Labeling Regulation Requirements

Care Label Must Be: Permanently Attach Legible during useful life of garment Written in English or other language Appropriate Care Symbols

Flammability Testing

1. For apparel, it is especially important that the materials used are in compliance with the flammability regulations.

2. In particular, adult apparel and children’s sleepwear have specific requirements that must be acceptable before importing or selling a product.

3. Also important to follow are the regulations for curtains, upholstery, rugs and carpets.

4. Hats, gloves, Footwear are exempted

Eco-Friendly Textiles 1. The trend of green consumerism has been

extended to textile and apparel products. 2. Major European and USA textile product

buyers have responded to this public awareness by viewing their textile products from an ecological viewpoint and are establishing relevant requirements.

3. Eco-Testing targets environmental protection and/or consumer health and safety.

4. Besides Governmental control there are other Consumer Protection activities from Non-Governmental Organizations (NGOs), especially in Germany and other EU countries

THINK GREEN

Banned Substances

Formaldehyde pH Value Heavy Metals Pesticides Azo Dyes Allergenic Disperse dyes Carcinogenic dyes Nickel in accessoriesChromium VICadmiumPhthalatesPolyvinyl Chloride (PVC)Chlorinated PhenolsPentachlorophenol (PCP)Tetrachlorophenol (TeCP)Polychlorinated Biphenyls (PCB)Organotin Compounds

Ph Value - High Alkaline Ph - Skin Irritation

Formaldehyde Content Respiratory Troubles,

Allergies Skin Inflammation

Penta Chloro Phenol - PCP Cancer Inducing

AZO Dye Stuffs Cancer Inducing Allergic Reactions

Optical Brightners Skin Diseases

Softening Agents Skin Allergies Increase water consumption

Nickle in Jewellery Skin irritation/ Skin Cancer

THINK GREEN

Now, lets look at

Some Basic Tests done on Apparels &

Textiles

Colourfastness Tests Washing Rubbing Water Perspiration Light

Dimensional Stability Durability Tests

Tensile Strength Tear Strength Seam Properties Pilling Abrasion

Color fastness Properties

Colorfastness is Resistance to change color.

Parameters affecting colourfastness properties:

Selection of coloring matter or dyes Dyeing process parameters

• (Time, Temperature/Pressure, m:l Ratio, pH) Dyeing Process After treatment

Colourfastness to Washing

You must have observed that the fabric losses colour resulting from detergent solution & abrasive action during hand or machine washing.One garment do stains other garments when washed together.

Change in colour and staining of adjacent fabrics are assessed in this test.

Test Method: ISO 105 C06

Machine and Material

Laundering machine : Laundrometer Stainless steel canister Stainless steel balls Teflon fluorocarbon gaskets Detergents Multifibre strip/ Cotton adjacent

fabric Scales for rating test results

Assessment of Colourfastness and Staining

The assessment is being done using grey scales by-

Visually comparing the difference in colour or contrast between the untreated and treated specimens with the differences represented by the scale.

Visually comparing the difference in colour or the contrast between the stained and unstained adjacent fabrics with the differences represented by scale.

GREY SCALES FOR STAINING & COLOR CHANGEGREY SCALES FOR STAINING & COLOR CHANGE

Interpretation of the grades

Grade 5 - NO CHANGE

Grade 4 - SLIGHT CHANGE

Grade 3 - NOTICEABLE CHANGE

Grade 2 - CONSIDERABLE CHANGE

Grade 1 - SEVERE CHANGE

The end result of any colorfastness test is a grade given to the tested sample.

Color Evaluation – New Technology

•Spectrophotometers

•Digi- Eye

The reason is transfer of colourant from the surface of a colored yarn or fabric to another surface or adjacent area of the same fabric principally by rubbing.

Test Method: ISO 105 X12

A girl wearing blue embroidered skirt sits in car having white seat upholstery. And when she leaves the car the seat covers are stained blue.

Colorfastness to Rubbing

Machine and Material

Motorized or manual crock meter

Crock clothDistilled water, Blotting paperGrey Scales (Staining)Colour matching cabinet.

This test is used to check transfer of color from wet textile to the surface of other textile material or adjacent area of the same fabric when the two surfaces are in prolonged contact with each other

This may lead to cross staining………

Sometimes, wet clothing or products may be left in the washing machine or in a bucket for a period of time & remain in contact with other fabrics before drying.

Test Method: ISO 105 E01

Color Fastness to Water

Material and Equipments

Perspirometer Multifibre Test fabric

(0.8cm, unfused). Balance with weighing

accuracy +/- 0.001 g. Drying Oven Grey scale for

staining, Grey scale for color

change. Blotting paper

Human perspiration is acidic/alkaline in nature which sometimes causes colour change in colored textile materials and staining to other adjacent textile material..

Colourfastness to Perspiration

Test Method: ISO 105 E04

Material and Equipments

Perspirometer Multifibre Test fabric

(0.8cm, unfused). Balance with weighing

accuracy +/- 0.001 g. Drying Oven Grey scale for staining,

Grey scale for color change. Blotting paper pH meter

A specimen of coloured textile in contact with other fiber materials (multifibre) is wet out in simulated perspiration solution, and then subjected to a fixed mechanical pressure and temperature for defined time. The specimen is then dried and evaluated for colour change & staining.

As human body temperature is around 38 deg C, the test is performed at same temperature.

Colorfastness to Perspiration

After washing procedure, clothes are dried in sun…..

Window curtains are exposed to direct sunlight…

Beachwear is subjected to prolonged sun exposure…

Sometimes, change in color is observed when Textiles are exposed to direct sunlight…

Test Method: ISO 105 B02

Color fastness to Artificial Sun Light

The samples are placed in special holders and exposed to artificial daylight produced by a special light source which mimics the action of sunlight, but in a more intense manner so as to speed up the fading effect.

A standard (blue wool reference) is also exposed with the sample and the colourfastness is being assessed by comparison of the colour change of the exposed portion to the unexposed portion of the test specimen using scale or blue references used.

Color fastness to Artificial Sun Light

A textile that can maintain it's original shape after use and care is said to be dimensionally stable.  .

Test method: ISO 5077/6330

Did you ever have a sweatshirt that shrunk? Is it now above your waist. How about a pair of jeans that got real tight after the first washing and shorter on the length.

Dimensional Stability

This test method is intended for the determination of dimensional changes in woven & knit fabrics / garments, when subjected to repeated automatic laundering procedures commonly used at home.

The dimensional changes of textile specimen subjected to washing are measured using pair of bench marks applied to the fabric before washing.

Test procedure – ISO 5077/6330

Machine and Material - ISO 5077/6330

Automatic washing machine Automatic tumble dryers Conditioning and drying racks Facility for drip drying and line drying Detergent Ballast Indelible ink marking pen Measuring tape or rule Weighing balance

Important bench mark locations for different garments

Shirt - Collar, Collar Band, Body Lengths, Sleeve Lengths, Width at chest and Cuffs

Trousers - Front rise, Back rise, Inseams, Outseams, Waist and Seat

Pajama Top - Lengths, Sleeves, Hem and Chest

Pajama Bottom - Inseams, Lengths, Hip and Waist

Uniform/Dress - Bodice lengths, Skirt lengths, Sleeve lengths, Shoulders, Chest, Waist, Hip and Hem

Blouse - Lengths, Sleeve Lengths, Shoulders, Chest and Waist

Skirt - Lengths, Hem, Hip and Waist

Test Procedure - ISO 5077/6330

After sample marking, weigh the sample and enough ballast to make required load.

Select specified water level or wash program as per instructions provided.

Add detergent as specified. Add test specimen and ballast to machine. Set the selected washing program. Dry the sample as per instructions. Condition the sample for min 4 h in the

standard atmosphere before evaluation.

Durability Tests or Physical Tests

Tear StrengthTensile StrengthSeam StrengthSeam SlippageBursting StrengthPillingAbrasion

This test method determines the tear force required to propagate a single-rip tear of defined length from a cut in the fabric when a sudden force is applied. In general the test is not applicable to knitted fabrics and woven elastic fabrics.

Test Conducted on Elmendorf Tear Tester

Tear Strength - Elmendorf

Test Method: ISO 13937-1

This test is used for determining the breaking strength and elongation of most textile fabrics.

Breaking force - the maximum force applied to a material carried to rupture.

Test Conducted on CRE Type Machine like INSTRON ( CRE is Constant Rate of Extension)

Tensile Strength

Test Method: ISO 5081

Seam Slippage

This test method is used to determine the resistance to slippage of filling yarns over warp yarns , or warp yarns over filling yarns, using a standard seam.It is used as an indication of the tendency of yarns to slip at a seam when stress is applied.

The result is that the yarns pull out but the thread and the

stitch doesn't rupture. Seam slippage is usually caused by poor fabric design (too loose of a weave) or too narrow of a seam margin.

Not using enough stitches per inch and a poor stitch balance

can also contribute to seam slippage.  

Test Method: BS 3320

STB: Sewing threads break, FTS: Fabric Tears at Seam, TPO: Threads pull out, FTJ: Fabric Tears at Jaw, FT: Fabric Tears

Interpretation of failure of seam

Seam Strength

This test method is used to determine the seam maximum force of sewn seams when the force is applied perpendicularly to the seam.

The test applies to the standard seam applied to fabric samples or the Production seam as received in finished garments.

This test does not predict actual wear performance of the seam since wear life depends on additional factors in addition to seam stressing.Test Method: ISO 13935 - 2

Seam Strength - ISO 13935 - 2

The five major contributors to seam

strength include 1. Fabric type and weight; 2. Thread type and size; 3. Stitch and seam construction; 4. Stitches per inch; and 5. Stitch balance.

Bursting Strength

Bursting Strength - force which is applied at right angles to the plane of the fabric, under specified conditions, which will result in the rupture of a textile.

This test is used to determine the resistance of textile materials to bursting using Hydraulic Diaphragm bursting tester

Applicable to knitted fabric where tensile

strength test is not suitable

Test Method: ISO 13938-1

Machine Used

The area of sample of fabric to test is clamped over an elastic diaphragm by means of a flat annular clamping ring, and an increasing fluid pressure is applied to the underside of the diaphragm until the specimen bursts.

Pilling Pills - we've all had them, we've

all done battle with them.

Pills are those tenacious little fuzz balls that sometimes appear on our garments.

Pilling

Pilling is a process of formation of fiber balls because of entanglement of surface fibres during wear. The propensity of pilling is determined by the rates of following parallel processes:- fibre entanglement leading to pill formation;- development of more surface fibre;- fibre and pill wear off.Fabric propensity to surface fuzzing and pilling is determined on Martindale Pilling Tester Test Method – ISO 12945 -2

Pilling - Visual assessment

5 - No Visual Change4 - Slight surface fuzzing and/ or partially formed

pills. 3 - Moderate surface fuzzing/or moderate pilling.

Pills of varying size and density partially covering the specimen

2 - Distinct surface fuzzing and/ or distinct pilling.Pills of varying size and density covering a large

proportion of specimen.1 - Dense surface fuzzing and / or severe pilling.

Thank You