SCULPTURED TERRY

SHIVRAJAN JAISWALFINAL YEAR-2012-16

IICT, BHADOHI

`Woven pile fabrics

Filling pile fabrics(corduroy, velveteen)

Warp pile fabrics(velour,velvet)

Slack tension weave fabrics( terry cloth)

Over wire fabrics(frieze, plush)

PILE FABRICS: MANUFACTURING METHODS

Other methods involved

Knit pile fabrics (knitted terry cloth, sliver pile knits)

Chenille yarn fabrics(drapery , upholstery)

Tufted pile fabrics(furlike fabrics, carpets, tufted-

napped blankets)

Flocked pile fabrics (flocked draperies, carpets etc.)

TERRY –A SLACK TENSION WOVEN PILE FABRIC

Terry cloth: • A terry cloth is a fabric which is made with loop pile on one

or both sides generally covering the entire surface or forming patterns and are used for their absorbency properties.

• When a terry is woven on a terry loom it is only in loop pile form but after taken off the loom, it can be converted into cut pile or both to produce diferent characterstics fabric.

• In the production of terry fabrics two warps are processed simultaneously: the ground warp with tautly tensioned ends and the pile warp with lightly tensioned ends.

• A special weaving method enables loops to be formed with the lightly tensioned warp ends on the fabric surface. With the basic method known as three-pick terry, three picks form a pick group.

• By means of a special device on the weaving machine, two picks are inserted at a variable distance –the loose pick distance – from the cloth fell. The loose pick distance is varied according to the desired pile height.

TERRY LOOM

1. Pile warp beam

2. Guide roller

3. Pile tensioning beam4. Ground warp tensioner5. Ground warp stop motion

6. Pile warp stop motion 7. Ground warp beam8. Sley gear with dynamic drive9. Cloth take up roller10. Cloth beam

11. Shed formation by a shedding device

Rapier terry weaving machine- With sley drive mechanism to form sculptured effect by varying pile heights through changing the position of sley at beat up.

• This represents a three pick terry woven on a terry loom,• The two picks are bounded by plain weave construction and

the pile forming yarn forms the float of two picks and is immediately bound by the third single pick .

• So that when the pick is beaten at the third pick by a special reed; the float then forms the loop pile.

SIMPLE TERRY WEAVE STRUCTURE

SCULPTURED TERRY MANUFACTURING Sculptured terry can be manufactured at two stages of terry

cloth manufacturing-• During weaving: 3,4,5 or higher pick groups are manufactured

simultaneously on the loom to produce terry with diferrent plie heights and thus forming a sculptured fabric.

• During finishing i.e after weaving : the simply woven terry fabric is embossed according to design, the loops that remain taut are sheared(cut) and the pile area that flattens are brushed to form high or low sculptured effect.

Long loops

Short loops

• This is a seven pick terry design used for sculptured terry production.• Two separate loose pick group are inserted for varying pile height as

decided by the warp float. • They are fully beaten at the seventh pick and sixth pick to form large and

small loops.• In this design –two pile warp and two ground warp are taking part to form

loops above and below by keeping them up or down during weaving through their individual harnesses.

SCULPTURED TERRY WEAVE STRUCTURE

1st pile warp2nd pile warp

reed

picksLoop from 1st pile warp

Loops from 2nd pile warp

Ground warps

TERRY CLOTH MANUFACTURING STEPS

Ground warp Pile warp Weft

Warping Warping

Sizing Sizing

Drawing in

Winding

Weaving

Finishing( tentering, printing, sculpturing etc.)

• Terry plus 800,Picanol,Belgium• Picanol 2004, from Belgium • Tsudakoma 2005, from Japan• Terry version of G6200 rapier weaving machine, Sulzer Textil,

Switzerland

LOOM MANUFACTURERS

REFERENCES

• Textiles, fifth edition by Norma Hollen, Jane Saddler, Anna L Langford

• Magazine-terry fabrics with exclusive pattern, Sulzer Technical Review 2/98

• Handbook of Weaving, Sulzer, by Sabit Adanur, Ph.D

thanking you, dhnyawad !