Tera Win-Design Riggingwebjam-upload.s3.amazonaws.com/tera_win-design_rigging___3564e… · Rigging...

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Rigging guide - Win-Design (silver) spars 1. Join the mast by inserting the mast top section into the mast bottom section. The mast top section for the Pro sail is longer than the mast top section for the standard Sport sail - make sure you use the right section for the sail (note: the sail rivet in the mast top section, if present, should be at the top of the mast) 2. Push the mast top section in until it hits the stop (about 30cm overlap) 3. Slide the front sleeve of the sail over the mast until the mast top reaches the top of the sail

Transcript of Tera Win-Design Riggingwebjam-upload.s3.amazonaws.com/tera_win-design_rigging___3564e… · Rigging...

Page 1: Tera Win-Design Riggingwebjam-upload.s3.amazonaws.com/tera_win-design_rigging___3564e… · Rigging guide - Win-Design (silver) spars 1. Join the mast by inserting the mast top section

Rigging guide - Win-Design (silver) spars

1. Join the mast by inserting the mast top section into the mast bottom section. The

mast top section for the Pro sail is longer than the mast top section for the standard

Sport sail - make sure you use the right section for the sail (note: the sail rivet in the

mast top section, if present, should be at the top of the mast)

2. Push the mast top section in until it hits the stop (about 30cm overlap)

3. Slide the front sleeve of the sail over the mast until the mast top reaches the top of

the sail

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4. Lift the mast and sail over the mast plate on the deck

5. With the mast upright, lower the end through the mast plate ensuring that the

retaining button is in line with the slot in the mast plate. When the mast is fully in, rotate

it through 180 degrees, so that the button is under the back of the plate thus preventing

the mast from falling out if the boat goes upside down after a capsize.

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6. Place the outer end of the boom through the strap on the outer corner of the sail (see

photo for point 10)

7. Pass the kicking strap loop over the front end of the boom and then over the button

on top of the boom

8. Push the boom jaws onto the mast just above the plastic sleeve

9. Thread the sail downhaul line from the kicking strap eye through the sail eye and

down to the cleat (rope not shown)

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10. Thread the sail outhaul line from the cleat through the boom end fitting, through the

sail eye and back to the boom end fitting. Tie a knot in the end.

11. The boom padded cover can be closed around the outhaul line and it can still be

adjusted

12. Tie the mainsheet end to the transom bridle. To set up a 2:1 mainsheet a block can

be attached to the bridle rope and the main sheet passed through the block and back to

tie off at the boom end

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13. Thread the mainsheet through the boom blocks and loop(s) in the boom padding,

and back down to and through the mainsheet block in the cockpit.

14. Tie a knot in the mainsheet so that the boom cannot pass beyond square to the hull

centreline when sailing (this is important, as otherwise the mast could rotate and release

from the mast gate if the boat is inverted, possibly resulting in damage caused by the

mast)

15. Place rudder on transom with the rudder blade fully up (uphaul line pulled tight).

Ensure that the tiller and tiller extension pass under the mainsheet bridle.

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16. After launching the rudder is lowered by releasing the uphaul line and the elastic

may then be pulled tight. The rudder is designed to knock back automatically if you hit

the ground, but you should always remember to pull the daggerboard up when sailing

back to a beach.

17. The daggerboard can be inserted when the water is deep enough (attach the

daggerboard to the hull with the length of elastic tied to the daggerboard lift rope). If you

run aground hard with the daggerboard down you should check that the hull has not

been punctured at the front or trailing edge of the daggerboard slot. Special ‘shock

absorbing’ pads have been fitted at these points to reduce the risk of damage, and these

can be replaced if damaged.

18. It is normally best to leave the kicking strap loose while launching and tension it as

appropriate when sailing.

MAINTENANCE

A Tera requires very little maintenance. Just check from time to time that the fittings are

soundly fixed and working properly. If used on the sea it is recommended that the boat,

fittings, ropes, mast, boom and sails are washed with fresh water from time to time.

The Tera hull is stiff and robust, but it will dent if subjected to point loading. However,

dents and scratches will not harm the structure of the boat and you will still be able to

use it.

The rudder and daggerboard are moulded plastic and very strong and hard wearing, but

you should not leave them in the sun for long periods of time or leave them in the boat

under the cover, or they might warp. Try to store them hanging or lying flat.

The hull may distort over time if not supported properly supported when stored. Avoid

point loads and do not store the boat for long periods on its side.