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I S S E Y M I Y A K E
Miyake is considered the
first Asian fashion designer
to gain renown worldwide.
Known for blending
the flowing fabrics and
textile designs of the East with modern
technology and production methods of
the West, he experimented with natural
and synthetic fibers and advanced textile
science. The winner of nearly every
fashion award, he is known to dislike the title “fashion
designer” and prefers to be considered an artist whose
medium is fabric. Two of Miyake’s most popular lines
are the Pleats Please prints that are permanently pleated
yet flexible, and A-POC (A Piece of Cloth), a
single, ready-to-wear piece of clothing. The
Issey Miyake label also appears on numerous
non-clothing items, including perfume, hosiery,
and home furnishings.
Miyake was born in 1938, in Hiroshima, Japan, and was seven years old when the atomic
bomb was dropped on that city during World War II. His mother, a teacher, was badly
burned by the bombing and died four years later of complications. In an illness unrelated
“
“
to the bomb, Miyake suffered from a bone-marrow
disease at age ten. Ironically, it was the American
occupation in Japan that gave Miyake an introduction to
western culture.Miyake’s interests turned to the artistic
even as a child, and with dreams of being a dancer and
an artist, he took an interest in the pictures of fashions in his sister’s glamour
magazines. Admiring the
way clothes could drape
the human body to make
a statement, he decided
By the way, Marilyn Monroe was a size 14
Words like ‘important’ and ‘controversial’
inevitably surface when you examine
the lengthy career of German composer
Karlheinz Stockhausen. A few facts to
kick off. He pioneered electronic music in
“variable form”. He has written graphical
scores that can be read from any direction.
Inspired by dreams of flying, he has
written works for a string quartet where
each participant performs from their own
helicopter hovering aWbove the concert
hall. In short, he does things none of us
really understand but sound really
quite impressive.
I AM GOING TO BE A GREAT ACTRESS .
I don’t want to be remembered as a
person with Aids,
I want to be remembered as a person with ideas.
Leigh Bowery
unique
26.03.61 - 31 .12 .94
Leigh Bowery (1961-1994), undoubtedly one of the most
controversial and avant-garde personalities of the 80’s.
“About Leigh Bowery” aims to be a photographic cross-
section of the deeds of the artist, performer, fashion
designer, aspiring pop star and object of art that Leigh
Bowery has been. Though almost unknown in Italy, he has
changed the visual language of fashion, and his personality
influenced people
like Lucian Freud,
Boy George,
Antony & the
Johnsons and
David LaChapelle,
who all have shared
and spread his
avant-garde ideas.
For his ability to
change identity,
Leigh Bowery can
be considered as an
authentic witness of
the protest against
s t anda rd i z a t i on
and conservatism,
thus representing
the uniqueness
of every life that
does not accept
rules of conduct
or appearance, in a
pure new-romantic
style, bringing out the individual with the expressive
freedom of genius. Bowery offers himself in an image
that - in a transgender vision - goes beyond the separation
of masculine and feminine appearances and behaviour by
means of the body and clothes, originating new concepts
of glamour and beauty. Leigh Bowery is one of the most
extreme interpreters of the historical context he lives in:
the one of the abolition of every limitation in favour of
complete experimentation and contamination among the
languages of music, art, fashion and design. It is the decade
of Margaret Thatcher (1979-1990), the birth of MTV
(1981), the fall of the Berlin wall (1989), the release of Like
a Virgin (1984) and other music hits like Thriller (1982).
Moreover, with tv, and especially with the promotional use
of music videos, visual impact becomes essential for every
artist willing to enter the commercial circuit. Fergus Greer
and Johnny Rozsa met Bowery and collaborated with him
from 1986 to 1994,
when he passed
away because of
HIV. Through a
series of portraits,
both photographers
give to those who
could not meet
him a real visual
guide of Leigh
Bowery and all he
created with his
own image. Johnny
Rozsa collaborates
with Bowery in a
photo shooting
for the creation of
Christmas Card.
With an unusually
emotional view
for a fashion
p h o t o g r a p h e r ,
Rozsa depicts
Bowery’s genuine
transformism, which sacrifices the wearability of the dress
in favour of the show. As well as actively collaborating
with him, Fergus Greer is also a dear friend of Bowery’s:
he released the “Leigh Bowery Looks” book, with
previously unreleased photos. It is Wexactly with this
visual account that the more intimate acquaintance
between the two emerges. Greer captures al the profound
and hard work that Bowery carries on around his body.
“I try to have the best possible image thanks to my
individuality and expressiveness”. (Leigh Bowery)v