It’s not just the chocolate that’s hot in Tulum, the boho-chic resort on Mexico’s Caribbean coast is emerging as an upmarket gourmet destination. Words Chris Dwyer Illustrations Tim Cheng

Technicoloured Dream Coast

60 TRAVEL

Shut

ters

tock

A lot of destinations lay claim to the world’s best beaches but Tulum, two hours’ drive south of Cancun in Mexico’s sun-kissed Caribbean state

of Quintana Roo, may just win the prize. Endless stretches of perfect white sands bring in visitors from around the world, and a bohemian, barefoot luxury vibe pervades the town.

Throw in brilliant local cuisine – including serious helpings of regionally produced chocolate – and you have a true gourmet destination. If proof were needed, Noma chef René Redzepi has long been a fan of the town and will be opening his acclaimed Copenhagen restaurant – named the world’s best restaurant four times between 2010 and 2014 – in Tulum for six weeks from mid-April to late May. At a cool US$600 a head, the Noma pop-up shows just how much Tulum has grown and the sort of visitors it attracts.

Gettingtherecouldn’tbesimplerasthere’sonlyoneroadinandout,thecoastalhighwaythatrunsallthewayfromgaudyCancuntothesleepyborderwithBelize.Therearetwodistinctpartstothetown:thepueblo,ortownproper,whichisacoupleofkilometresinland,andthebeachstrip,alongstretchofhippiechicbars,restaurants,cabanasandboutiquesknownastheBoca-PailaRoad.Thepuebloisgrittier,thebeachstripconsiderablyprettier,butbothhavetheircharms.

Tulum’s remarkable history traces back to the end of the mighty Mayan civilisation as one of the last cities they built and inhabited, from the 13th to 15th centuries. The cliffside Tulum ruins are truly breathtaking, overlooking the perfect azure waters and baby-powder beaches of the Caribbean coast. The ruins are very popular, but heading there first thing in the morning or at night ensures you don’t feel swarmed as you admire the Temple of the Frescoes and the Temple of the Descending God, two of the most remarkable remnants.

Thereafter Tulum’s main attractions are relaxing on the beach, eating and drinking, and indulging in retail therapy – not exactly hardships. Shopping is a favourite pastime on the beach strip with its quirky and funky boutiques such as KM33, Caravana and Mr Blackbird.

When it comes to dining, the beach strip has higher-end options and pricing, while the pueblo is full of superb local eateries where you can dine like a king for less than US$4. We returned time and again to Taqueria Honorio to join constant lines of locals waiting for sensational hand-pressed tacos. Pork with crispy chicharron (crackling) and vibrant salsa was a standout, but everything was delicious.

Vegan dining spot Restaurare is good enough to convince even committed carnivores and features

Clockwise from left:

Traditional Mexican carpets at a souvenir shop; street graffiti; and divers in the Grand Cenote just outside of Tulum

62 TRAVEL

Cha

rlie

Mar

chan

t

Shut

ters

tock

Shut

ters

tock

Hotel Nômade Hotel Nômade may be the priciest option, but it’s also the coolest. Great food in two restaurants, countless cabanas on the beach and deluxe cottage accommodation make this the place to be seen.

Carretera Tulum-Boca Paila KM 10.5 Tulum 77780, Quintana Roo, MexicoT +52 984 873 3087

Hotel SanaraEco-chic and wellness abound at Hotel Sanara – the name is Spanish for “you will heal”. The design is fantastic and the beach is beautiful and calming.

Carreterra, Boca Paila KM 8.1 Tulum 77780, Quintana Roo, MexicoT +1 310 933 6408

IberostarMore akin to Asian luxury resorts, Iberostar has five hotels in Quintana Roo. Iberostar Quetzal is a drive away but offers top amenities and service as well as Mayan ruins on the property.

Avenue Xaman-Ha Lote Hotelero 2, Fracc. Playacar Playa del Carmen 77710, Quintana Roo, MexicoT +52 984 877 2000

CurrencyATMs and currency exchanges are everywhere. The rate is generally 20 pesos to US$1, so don’t stray far from this rate.

TransportationBicycles are the eco way to get around and your accommodation may provide them free. Otherwise, taxis are plentiful and there are cheap local shared minibus shuttles to beaches and sights.

TippingUnlike the US, tipping is not expected. Some places add a 10 per cent service charge, but a few extra dollars go a long way.

the region’s chocolate across a number of dishes. Mole sauce is a well-known and loved combination of cocoa and chillis, cumin, fresh coriander and other herbs, spices and secret ingredients that make it a true test of a Mexican kitchen. Restaurare’s version contains an incredible 52 ingredients – just don’t try asking for the recipe, as it includes local squash and mushrooms in an intoxicating combination. To follow, the “Choco Bite” lives up to its name with a decadent and delicious cake that will redefine how you see vegan desserts.

For more chocolate, it’s a pleasant drive inland to the picturesque colonial city of Valladolid, home to some of Quintana Roo’s cocoa legends. Chocolate Maya – to

give it its shorter name – is a museum and tasting spot a quick stroll from the town’s central plaza that celebrates all things cacao. History, production and chocolate vessels are all explained and on show, but the real treat is tasting the 10 flavours it produces, including chilli and a wonderfully aromatic ginger. A cup of hot chocolate is the perfect way to end the visit.

Back in Tulum, the sun sets in a blaze of colour setting the scene for mojitos like you’ve never tasted and chilli-rimmed margaritas prepared across the town as aperitifs or as a passport to a longer night of music, dancing and laughing. In this perfect little destination with chocolate at every turn, everything tastes sweet.

Above:

Saint Servatius in Valladolid, Mexico

1 First Things

First

Tulum’s fame is built around its stunning Mayan ruins. Get up early and watch the sunrise over the breathtaking 900-year-old beachside citadel. The endless beach calls for lazing, fish tacos, mojitos and snorkelling. After a siesta and a massage at Xocolate – a chocolate spa – check out the cooler-than-cool local stores for Mexican and international designs, before perfect margaritas, dinner and some moves in the bars in town and on the beach strip.

2 What to

Do

3 Where to

Stay

64 TRAVEL

Shut

ters

tock

Cha

rlie

Mar

chan

t

Cochinita PibilPibil pork is arguably the most famous dish of Quintana Roo, Tulum’s region, where it’s marinated in orange juices and achiote chilli before being slow-roasted. At TaqueriaElPaisa in Tulum pueblo, they cook it overnight in charcoal.

Grilled Seafood and Meat Noma’s René Redzepi says Hartwood is the restaurant of his dreams and dinner shows why. Wonderful seafood and meats are cooked over an open flame, under the stars and in the jungle. Magical.

Churros Hot chocolate has no better friend than churros – deep-fried dough sticks – and the dipping reaches new heights at family-friendly PannaeCioccolata in the pueblo.

TacosTacos are everywhere, so look for the cheapest options that attract the most locals. Our hands-down winner was TaqueriaHonorio, with sensational flavours running riot. Do not miss the lechon – roast pork – with crackling.

Guacamole Humble and laid-back local bar Batey is a reminder of how good guacamole can be, with a perfect blend of citrus and spice in a very generous serving.

4 Where to

Eat

For coffee

Ki’Bok serves easily the best coffee around. A family from California with roots in Seattle started this tiny downtown cafe and the ambience is very Tulum, very authentic, mixing design with sustainability around Mexican roots.

For a taco

Safari is a place on the beach with brilliant handmade tortillas and cocktails – you can always make a taco go with tequila.

For a romantic dinnerPosada Margarita’s Italian owners are pioneers in Tulum and the candles, setting, design and Italian food are perfect. It’s so romantic you’ll want 20 kids after going there.

A tequila experience

Gitano is a great bar and its Kisses in a Car [cocktail] is spicy with mezcal. It’s how I fell in love with Tulum and decided I wanted to live here.

Best views

Hotel Azulik is the sexiest place on earth – and I’m not afraid to say it. There are treehouses, gigantic Jacuzzis, swings and amazing views over the sea and jungle. It’s magical.

For a run The beach road where we’re located is the best running track in the world. At times it can feel like a live fashion show – Leonardo DiCaprio was here recently. The run from the Tulum ruins to Nômade Hotel is just less than 10km.

For beachside lounging

Nômade Hotel has a grill where you handpick your lobster and fish. The design is perfect.

To browse

At KM33, we support Latin American designers for women who like to collect beautiful pieces with a story behind them, such as the embroidered home goods, clothing and accessories by La Troupe, a company started in Tulum by three Argentinians.

Gael DeboiseGael Deboise runs KM33, a boutique on Boca-Paila Road offering Mexican and Latin American fashion and accessories to a discerning crowd. Alongside his trusty companion Cesar, a French bulldog, he reveals his favourite spots in the town he loves.

&QA Conversation with a local

66 TRAVEL