Tea Room Treasures of Budapest! (Winter 2014)
18
Tea Room Treasures of Budapest! Winter 2014-2015 Issue Special Edition -Celebrating A Great British Tradition Abroad Historic Kavé hazak of Budapest Gerbeaud Café Ruszwurm Confectioners & Café Central Café Gerloczy Kavé haz
description
As a special treat for fellow seekers of the celebrated British tradition of Afternoon Tea, the winter issue of Tea Room Treasures goes in search of the bohemian experience in that great Eastern European city of Budapest!
Transcript of Tea Room Treasures of Budapest! (Winter 2014)
Tea Room
Treasures
of
Budapest
Winter 2014-2015 Issue
Special Edition -Celebrating A Great British Tradition Abroad
Historic Kaveacute hazak of Budapest Gerbeaud Cafeacute Ruszwurm Confectioners amp Cafeacute
Central Cafeacute
Gerloczy Kaveacute haz
Tea Room Treasures of Budapest
Tea Room Treasures
of Budapest
Tea Notes As a special treat for fellow seekers of the celebrated British tradition of Afternoon Tea the winter issue of Tea Room Treasures goes in search of the bohemian experience in that great Eastern European city of Budapest
While not typically considered a lsquotearsquo capital Budapest is well-known for its coffee housesmdashor Kaveacutehazak From opulent hotels to hidden backrooms the kaveacutehaz (singular) became the gathering spot for artisans poets and literary notables During the rise of communism local kaveacutehazak were labelled as anti-government establishments that were brewing more discontent than coffee
Although coffee is the Hungarian capitolrsquos mainstay tea aficiona-dos will enjoy sampling some of Eastern Europersquos tantalizing teas So sit back with your favorite lsquofeketeacute s cseacuteszersquo (coffee cup) and enjoy a visual taste of the kaveacutehazak of Budapest
~CA Eccles
2
Inside this issue Tea Notes 2
Map of Budapest 4
Kaveacutehaz History 6
Cafeacute Gerbeaud 8
Rusrzwurm Confect 10
Central Cafeacute 12
Gerloczy Kaveacutehaz 14
Special Thanks 16
Spring Issue Preview 16
About the Authorhelliphellip 17
Image Credits
Image credits all images and content provided by CA Eccles unless other-wise indicated All works under
copyright restrictions
Front Hungarian parliament in
Budapest along the River Danube
Left Chandeliers and drapery of a
kaveacutehaz
Back Streets of Budapest in the morning
copy CA Eccles 2014 All rights reserved
Winter 2014-2015
ldquoThere are few hours in life more agreeable
than the hour dedicated to the ceremony
known as afternoon teardquo (Henry James
The Portrait of a Ladymdash1843-1916)
3
Tea Room Treasures of Budapest Ruszwurm Confectioners and Cafeacute
Central Kaveacutehaz
4
Winter 2014-2015
Gerbeaud Kaveacutehaz
Gerloczy Kaveacutehaz
(Base map and callouts courtesy of Google Maps)
Hungaryrsquos
Coffee Origins
Coffee was introduced to
Hungary by Turks in the
16th century during the
reign of the Ottoman
Empire Originally
coined ldquoblack souprdquo cof-
fee became an integral
part of the culture and
social growth of the re-
gion New twists on the
old standard include ldquoice
coffeerdquo (ice cream
whipped cream choco-
late and coffee) and
ldquoEdenrdquo (espresso milk
chocolate and coconut)
ldquoA mathematician is a device for turning coffee
into theoremsrdquo Renyi Alfred (1921-1970)
The Kaveacutehaz a brief history There is still something ve ry bohemian about Budapestrsquos coffee houses or kaveacutehazak where literary notables poets and artisans of the 19th century debated
politics religion and romance
At the height of the coffee-culture in Budapest in the early 19th century the city boasted over 400 separate kaveacutehazak The coffee culture flourished under the Austro-
Hungarian Empire and the local kaveacutehaz witnessed lively debates between Populists championing the rights of peasants and the rigid communist parties spouting
the doctrine of social realism
But as communism swept through Europe kaveacutehazsak were forced into closure cited as being too ldquouniquerdquo or were secret meeting locations for
anti-establishment poets
Crowning of Franz Josef and Elisabeth as king and queen of Hungary
1867 (courtesy Wikimedia Commons)
5
6 6 6
Tea Room Treasures of Budapest
Antique candelabra
Budapest
Coffee mdash the
Hungarian way
Coffee is big business world-wide from the Starbucks and Costa Coffees to the Mc Cafeacutes Todayrsquos chain coffee houses cater to the people-
on-the-go culture
Hungarians also like their morning cup of java but prefer the traditional style of enjoying a super strong espresso either in the opulence of a restored grand hotel or in a classic
baroque cafeacute
International coffee chains are found in Budapest but it is no sur-prise that locals still prefer the traditional in-dependent kaveacutehaz
An antique rocking horse hangs at the entrance of
the Gerloczy Kaveacutehaz
With the fall of the Berlin Wall in 1989 and the subsequent collapse of the Soviet Union many of Budapestrsquos historic cafeacutes reopened and were renovated and again became
the center of social cultural and political engagement
Today equally spirited conversations on climate change or austerity measures can be heard in kaveacutehazak throughout Budapest Historic establishments such as the Central Kaveacutehaz or Ruszwurm Confectioners and Cafeacute as well as newer cafeacutes lining the streets of Budapest are bursting with locals and tourists alike adding to the vibrancy of the coffee culture and
all while enjoying a strong coffee or a nice cup of tea
A cup of organic Earl Grey at Gerbeaudrsquos
6
Winter 2014-2015
ldquoIf this is coffee please bring me some tea if this
is tea please bring me some coffeerdquo
Abraham Lincoln (1809-1865)
Menu The dessert menu is long and varied with cakes confectioneries sundaes walnut cream-filled
pancakes and more
The Bistrorsquos menu includes the classics goulash and Szekely cabbage (pork and sauerkraut stew) as well as western favorites beef or pork burgers and Turkey lsquocordon
bleursquo
Hours______
Open daily from 9am
until 9pm
Bistro hours 12pm
until 10pm
Access_____
Vorosmarty Square is a pedestrian shopping district but with easy access via the metro
Vorosmarty station
Contact_____
Tel +36 1 429 900 wwwgerbeaudhu
gerbeaudgerbeaudhu
Cafeacute Gerbeaud (East side of Danube)
One of Europersquos most famous cafeacutes operating since the mid 19th century Gerbeaud oozes
opulence and tradition
Perched on the northern side of Vorosmarty Square on the east side of the Danube (the old city of Pestside of Budapest) Gerbeaudrsquos was established by a Swiss pastry chef Emile Gerbeaud in 1858
Gerbeaudrsquos once catered to the more upscale clientele and elements of that once-upon-a-time grandeur are still seen today through sparkling chandeliers and exquisite
mahogany woodwork
Gerbeaudrsquos occupies a long stretch of Vorosmarty Square providing excellent views into
the Christmas Market
Cafeacute Gerbeaud Vorosmarty ter 7-8 1051 Budapest
Cafeacute Gerbeaud was the first stop on my tour of kaveacutehazak and I was not disappointed I opted for organic Earl Grey tea with blue blossoms accompanied by a Gerbeaud classicmdashthe Somloi sponge cake with sponge-custard blended cake covered with takoj aszu (a full-bodied sweet dessert wine but in this case cooked with bitter chocolate) whipped cream and topped with grated walnuts thickened chocolate syrup and chocolate stems Ordinarily I shy away from desserts cooked with alcohol as I am not a fan of the usually-present alcohol taste However the takoj aszu was barely discernable serving to enhance the
nutty-custard cake
7
Tea Room Treasures of Budapest
ldquoAll of the staff agree Somloi sponge cake is the favoriterdquo
Festive floral arrangements adorn a glass dessert display (above) one of many sparkling chandeliers adding to Gerbeaudrsquos grandeur
(right)
8
Winter 2014-2015
Menu The list of cakes pastries and desserts is too exten-sive to list But classics include the buttery Boer crescent the Tirol Strudel (named for one of the founders) and classic round pastries made with potatoes cheese or cab-bage Or try a traditional pogacsa (Hungarian scone) if you prefer something a little less sweet A variety of teas coffees and cap-puccinos are also available
Hours______ Spring-Fall 9am-8pm
Winter 1000am-700pm
Access_____
Walkers can take a tram from the base of Chain Bridge to the Castle district Parking is limited and mostly for residents
Contact_____ Tel +36 1 375 5284 Website
wwwruszwurmhu
Ruszwurm Cafeacute (West side Castle District)
Just to the west of Matyas
Templom (St Matthewrsquos
Church) is one of Budapestrsquos
oldest and most traditional
coffee houses It opened in 1827
and was favored by Hungaryrsquos
Queen Elisabeth One owner
was jailed after the Revolution-
ary war (1848-1849) and today
the kaveacutehaz is run by the last
Hungarian confectionary family
Ruszwurmrsquos is very popular with
locals and tourists especially on
the weekends The seating area is
cozy so it is best to visit on a day
when you can leave your back-
pack behind
I highly recommend visiting
the website (be patient) before
your visit for a brief history of
Ruszwurm and a trip back in
time to the ldquogood ole daysrdquo
I decided to stock up on desserts ordering two house favorites Ruszwurm Kreme (3-4 inches of vanilla-almond cregraveme sandwiched between two flaky pastries and dusted with confectionersrsquo sugar) and Dobos cake (11 layers of alternating sponge and chocolate cream with a brittle toffee topping and chocolate sprinkles down the side) Rather than tea I opted for a double-cregraveme hot chocolate dusted with of
course more chocolate
Szentharomsag utca 7 1014 Budapest Hungary
9
Tea Room Treasures of Budapest
Dobos cakersquos 11 layers of heaven (top) A bowl of artistically styled oranges with cloves served as an organic air freshener (above) glass mug of double-cregraveme hot
chocolate (right)
10
Winter 2014-2015
ldquoThe Dobos cake is really 11 layers of heaven all on one platerdquo
Menu Central Cafeacutersquos menu is extensive with signature drinks Cafeacute Pepperino the Kapuciner and the Central Kaveacute with al-mond liquor caramelized nut and whipped cream For meals the menu in-cludes Magyaros reggeli (eggs sausage and onion with Hungarian cheese spread and garden vege-tables) and a variety of soups salads and plated meals such as black cod fillet and chicken with plum sauce Central rsquos own unique twist on the American classic cookie is the Central Oreo Keksz two dark chocolate bis-cuits with a white choco-late cream in the center
Hours______ Open daily from 800am
until 1100pm
Access______
Central Cafeacute is just south of the Ferenciek tere (Metro) line and is only 4 blocks east of the Dan-ube
Contact_____
Tel +36 1 266 2110
Website
wwwcentralkavehazhu
Central Cafeacute (east side near Elizabeth Bridge) One of the oldest ldquoVienna-stylerdquo cafeacute-restaurants in Budapest is the Central Cafeacute It opened in 1887 as the grandest of all of Budapestrsquos historic cafes Central Cafeacute was not only a place where poets converged It also served as the gathering place for staff and writers of Nyugat the literary periodical publishing then perceived revolutionary
articles Like other kaveacutehazak in Budapest the Central was closed by the communist government It was one of the first to reopen following the fall of communism in 1989 The vaulted ceilings are only out-matched by the leather and mahogany furniture but together they hold the history of
Budapestsrsquo tumultuous past
Central Cafeacute was unusually quiet during my mid-day stop according to the hostess Construction had blocked of two of the four streets on Centralrsquos corner The ambience was only enhanced as the big band era songs echoed in the high ceilings For this visit I opted for the classic Eszterhazy tortamdasha traditional Hungarian cake named after Prince Paul III Eszterhazy de Galanthamdashwhich is a multi-layered confection-er of buttercream sponge cake walnut paste and a white sugar glaze This delicious treat is easily identified by its spider-web like decoration on top To this nutty delight I added a pot of Earl Grey with honey
and lemon
Karolyi Mihaly utca 9 1053 Budapest Hungary
11
Tea Room Treasures of Budapest
ldquoYoung people old people and people with fami-
liesthey all come to Central to socializerdquo
13
Classic Eszterhazy torta (top) Cakes and pastries under glass (above)rsquo
Central Cafeacutersquos signature mugs (right)
12
Winter 2014-2015
Menu Gerloczy caters to any taste serving classic cui-sine for breakfast lunch and dinner From backed-fresh croissants and Viennese sausages to squid in rustic sauce or paprdelle with giant shrimp and duck liver Although less focused on desserts you can enjoy classics such as cregraveme brule or lemon tart or enjoy Asian lemongrass cake Gerloczyrsquos chefs are also very creative when it comes to choco-
late
Hours______
Open daily from 7am to 11pm but ldquotea timerdquo is
from 400pm to 600pm
Access_____
Gerloczy is located on its namesake ldquoGerloczy streetrdquo situated at the crossroads of Gerloczy and Vitkovics Mihaly streets Only taxis resi-dents and permit holders can enterpark in the square but there are two car parks nearby with discounts for guests
Contact_____ Tel +36 1 501 4000
Website wwwgerloczyhu
Gerloczy Kaveacutehaz (east side of Danube)
One of the more unusual of Budapestrsquos kaveacutehazak is Gerloczyrsquos which also offers guests elegant accommodations The building dates from 1892 and is in the early Parisian-style to include bistro outdoor dining Gerloczy is also famous for its Hollywood links with rumors of Steven Spielberg shooting a scene for the movie ldquoMunichrdquo inside
the kaveacutehaz as a replacement for a Parisian bistro The interior both upstairs and downstairs is very reminiscent of European style and there is a real sense of nostalgia with the soft sounds of Louis Armstrong playing in the background There is both indoor and outdoor seat-ing and lively conversations are
readily available
Rather than have cakes or sweets I opted for a light brunch selecting the ham and cheese in a light and flakey puff pastry Adorning the pastry was mountain of sprigs and lettuce with a drizzle of oil and vin-aigrette dressing and I topped it off with loose leave Earl Grey tea in a
signature Gerloczy Cafeacute
The pastry oozed with several French cheeses another specialty of Gerloczyrsquos Parisian food repertoire which enhanced the flavor of the
smoked ham This was a fabulously rich and filling brunch
Gerloczy st 1 1052 Budapest Hungary
11
Tea Room Treasures of Budapest
ldquoA kaveacutehaz with a littlelsquo slice of Parisrsquordquo
15
Ham in puff pastry with fresh salad (top) Locals socializing in a classic setting (above)
Loose-leaf Earl Grey in a signature mug (right)
12
Winter 2014-2015
For the next edition of lsquoTea Room Treasuresrsquo we shake off those winter blues and welcome Spring with a tour of tea rooms in East Anglia Betty Bumbles Vintage Tea Rooms (St Neots) Woodford Mill Tea Room (Ringsted Northamptonshire) The Barn Tea Rooms (Burwash Manor Cambridge)
Spring 2015 Issue Preview
A special thanks to the staff and management of each of the kaveacutehazak highlighted Everyone was kind warm welcoming and accommodating Owners kindly provided historic details and allowed me to tour their establishments And despite my non-existent language skills locals happily provided me with their views on socialism democracy and poetry mdashand of course their favorite cakes and sweets
Special Thanks (Koumlszoumlnoumlm)
13
Tea Room Treasures of Budapest
CA Eccles WriterPhotographer
Member Royal Photographic Society
ArchaeologyHeritage Group
Travel Group
DocumentaryVideo Journalism
Channel 7 Film Production Company
Set Photographer
PADI-certified SCUBA Diver
Earth is home to billions of people with rich cultures traditions histories and perspectives Writer and photographer Cindy A Eccles (aka CA Eccles) seeks to capture these and other wonders of life through both word and sight Her goal bridge geographic and cultural divides to build trust and tolerance so that we can all appreciate and celebrate our uniqueness and
commonalities with mutual respect
Cindy has advanced degrees in archaeologyanthropology and international relations and a post-graduate degree in journalism She has published both fiction and non-fiction works including former Senator William Coxonrsquos papers (1930-1960) on his pursuits to understand and document petroglyphs Cindy also writes for the Heritage Daily magazine on issues
concerning risks to world heritage
Separately Cindy contributes to travel magazines and news outlets on a variety of travel-related topics You can also follow her travel blogmdashldquoON the Beaten Pathrdquomdashhighlighting travel experiences to lesser known gems within already popular tourist destinations One does not need to travel ldquooff the beaten pathrdquo
to have a memorable and unique experience
Cindy is also a professional photographer with interests in the landscape travel and heritage genres Images from her series on life in Sanliurfa Turkey was exhibited by the Los Angeles Pho-to Festival in April and Cindyrsquos images and articles have been published by the Royal Photographic Society heritage and trav-
el magazines
You can keep up with Cindyrsquos adventures and view her latest photo galleries by visiting wwwcaecclescom and she can be
reached by email at caecclescaecclescom
CindyEccles
CA Eccles
14
Winter 2014-2015
wwwpixotocomcaeccles
copy CA Eccles 2014 All rights reserved
Tea Room Treasures of Budapest
Tea Room Treasures
of Budapest
Tea Notes As a special treat for fellow seekers of the celebrated British tradition of Afternoon Tea the winter issue of Tea Room Treasures goes in search of the bohemian experience in that great Eastern European city of Budapest
While not typically considered a lsquotearsquo capital Budapest is well-known for its coffee housesmdashor Kaveacutehazak From opulent hotels to hidden backrooms the kaveacutehaz (singular) became the gathering spot for artisans poets and literary notables During the rise of communism local kaveacutehazak were labelled as anti-government establishments that were brewing more discontent than coffee
Although coffee is the Hungarian capitolrsquos mainstay tea aficiona-dos will enjoy sampling some of Eastern Europersquos tantalizing teas So sit back with your favorite lsquofeketeacute s cseacuteszersquo (coffee cup) and enjoy a visual taste of the kaveacutehazak of Budapest
~CA Eccles
2
Inside this issue Tea Notes 2
Map of Budapest 4
Kaveacutehaz History 6
Cafeacute Gerbeaud 8
Rusrzwurm Confect 10
Central Cafeacute 12
Gerloczy Kaveacutehaz 14
Special Thanks 16
Spring Issue Preview 16
About the Authorhelliphellip 17
Image Credits
Image credits all images and content provided by CA Eccles unless other-wise indicated All works under
copyright restrictions
Front Hungarian parliament in
Budapest along the River Danube
Left Chandeliers and drapery of a
kaveacutehaz
Back Streets of Budapest in the morning
copy CA Eccles 2014 All rights reserved
Winter 2014-2015
ldquoThere are few hours in life more agreeable
than the hour dedicated to the ceremony
known as afternoon teardquo (Henry James
The Portrait of a Ladymdash1843-1916)
3
Tea Room Treasures of Budapest Ruszwurm Confectioners and Cafeacute
Central Kaveacutehaz
4
Winter 2014-2015
Gerbeaud Kaveacutehaz
Gerloczy Kaveacutehaz
(Base map and callouts courtesy of Google Maps)
Hungaryrsquos
Coffee Origins
Coffee was introduced to
Hungary by Turks in the
16th century during the
reign of the Ottoman
Empire Originally
coined ldquoblack souprdquo cof-
fee became an integral
part of the culture and
social growth of the re-
gion New twists on the
old standard include ldquoice
coffeerdquo (ice cream
whipped cream choco-
late and coffee) and
ldquoEdenrdquo (espresso milk
chocolate and coconut)
ldquoA mathematician is a device for turning coffee
into theoremsrdquo Renyi Alfred (1921-1970)
The Kaveacutehaz a brief history There is still something ve ry bohemian about Budapestrsquos coffee houses or kaveacutehazak where literary notables poets and artisans of the 19th century debated
politics religion and romance
At the height of the coffee-culture in Budapest in the early 19th century the city boasted over 400 separate kaveacutehazak The coffee culture flourished under the Austro-
Hungarian Empire and the local kaveacutehaz witnessed lively debates between Populists championing the rights of peasants and the rigid communist parties spouting
the doctrine of social realism
But as communism swept through Europe kaveacutehazsak were forced into closure cited as being too ldquouniquerdquo or were secret meeting locations for
anti-establishment poets
Crowning of Franz Josef and Elisabeth as king and queen of Hungary
1867 (courtesy Wikimedia Commons)
5
6 6 6
Tea Room Treasures of Budapest
Antique candelabra
Budapest
Coffee mdash the
Hungarian way
Coffee is big business world-wide from the Starbucks and Costa Coffees to the Mc Cafeacutes Todayrsquos chain coffee houses cater to the people-
on-the-go culture
Hungarians also like their morning cup of java but prefer the traditional style of enjoying a super strong espresso either in the opulence of a restored grand hotel or in a classic
baroque cafeacute
International coffee chains are found in Budapest but it is no sur-prise that locals still prefer the traditional in-dependent kaveacutehaz
An antique rocking horse hangs at the entrance of
the Gerloczy Kaveacutehaz
With the fall of the Berlin Wall in 1989 and the subsequent collapse of the Soviet Union many of Budapestrsquos historic cafeacutes reopened and were renovated and again became
the center of social cultural and political engagement
Today equally spirited conversations on climate change or austerity measures can be heard in kaveacutehazak throughout Budapest Historic establishments such as the Central Kaveacutehaz or Ruszwurm Confectioners and Cafeacute as well as newer cafeacutes lining the streets of Budapest are bursting with locals and tourists alike adding to the vibrancy of the coffee culture and
all while enjoying a strong coffee or a nice cup of tea
A cup of organic Earl Grey at Gerbeaudrsquos
6
Winter 2014-2015
ldquoIf this is coffee please bring me some tea if this
is tea please bring me some coffeerdquo
Abraham Lincoln (1809-1865)
Menu The dessert menu is long and varied with cakes confectioneries sundaes walnut cream-filled
pancakes and more
The Bistrorsquos menu includes the classics goulash and Szekely cabbage (pork and sauerkraut stew) as well as western favorites beef or pork burgers and Turkey lsquocordon
bleursquo
Hours______
Open daily from 9am
until 9pm
Bistro hours 12pm
until 10pm
Access_____
Vorosmarty Square is a pedestrian shopping district but with easy access via the metro
Vorosmarty station
Contact_____
Tel +36 1 429 900 wwwgerbeaudhu
gerbeaudgerbeaudhu
Cafeacute Gerbeaud (East side of Danube)
One of Europersquos most famous cafeacutes operating since the mid 19th century Gerbeaud oozes
opulence and tradition
Perched on the northern side of Vorosmarty Square on the east side of the Danube (the old city of Pestside of Budapest) Gerbeaudrsquos was established by a Swiss pastry chef Emile Gerbeaud in 1858
Gerbeaudrsquos once catered to the more upscale clientele and elements of that once-upon-a-time grandeur are still seen today through sparkling chandeliers and exquisite
mahogany woodwork
Gerbeaudrsquos occupies a long stretch of Vorosmarty Square providing excellent views into
the Christmas Market
Cafeacute Gerbeaud Vorosmarty ter 7-8 1051 Budapest
Cafeacute Gerbeaud was the first stop on my tour of kaveacutehazak and I was not disappointed I opted for organic Earl Grey tea with blue blossoms accompanied by a Gerbeaud classicmdashthe Somloi sponge cake with sponge-custard blended cake covered with takoj aszu (a full-bodied sweet dessert wine but in this case cooked with bitter chocolate) whipped cream and topped with grated walnuts thickened chocolate syrup and chocolate stems Ordinarily I shy away from desserts cooked with alcohol as I am not a fan of the usually-present alcohol taste However the takoj aszu was barely discernable serving to enhance the
nutty-custard cake
7
Tea Room Treasures of Budapest
ldquoAll of the staff agree Somloi sponge cake is the favoriterdquo
Festive floral arrangements adorn a glass dessert display (above) one of many sparkling chandeliers adding to Gerbeaudrsquos grandeur
(right)
8
Winter 2014-2015
Menu The list of cakes pastries and desserts is too exten-sive to list But classics include the buttery Boer crescent the Tirol Strudel (named for one of the founders) and classic round pastries made with potatoes cheese or cab-bage Or try a traditional pogacsa (Hungarian scone) if you prefer something a little less sweet A variety of teas coffees and cap-puccinos are also available
Hours______ Spring-Fall 9am-8pm
Winter 1000am-700pm
Access_____
Walkers can take a tram from the base of Chain Bridge to the Castle district Parking is limited and mostly for residents
Contact_____ Tel +36 1 375 5284 Website
wwwruszwurmhu
Ruszwurm Cafeacute (West side Castle District)
Just to the west of Matyas
Templom (St Matthewrsquos
Church) is one of Budapestrsquos
oldest and most traditional
coffee houses It opened in 1827
and was favored by Hungaryrsquos
Queen Elisabeth One owner
was jailed after the Revolution-
ary war (1848-1849) and today
the kaveacutehaz is run by the last
Hungarian confectionary family
Ruszwurmrsquos is very popular with
locals and tourists especially on
the weekends The seating area is
cozy so it is best to visit on a day
when you can leave your back-
pack behind
I highly recommend visiting
the website (be patient) before
your visit for a brief history of
Ruszwurm and a trip back in
time to the ldquogood ole daysrdquo
I decided to stock up on desserts ordering two house favorites Ruszwurm Kreme (3-4 inches of vanilla-almond cregraveme sandwiched between two flaky pastries and dusted with confectionersrsquo sugar) and Dobos cake (11 layers of alternating sponge and chocolate cream with a brittle toffee topping and chocolate sprinkles down the side) Rather than tea I opted for a double-cregraveme hot chocolate dusted with of
course more chocolate
Szentharomsag utca 7 1014 Budapest Hungary
9
Tea Room Treasures of Budapest
Dobos cakersquos 11 layers of heaven (top) A bowl of artistically styled oranges with cloves served as an organic air freshener (above) glass mug of double-cregraveme hot
chocolate (right)
10
Winter 2014-2015
ldquoThe Dobos cake is really 11 layers of heaven all on one platerdquo
Menu Central Cafeacutersquos menu is extensive with signature drinks Cafeacute Pepperino the Kapuciner and the Central Kaveacute with al-mond liquor caramelized nut and whipped cream For meals the menu in-cludes Magyaros reggeli (eggs sausage and onion with Hungarian cheese spread and garden vege-tables) and a variety of soups salads and plated meals such as black cod fillet and chicken with plum sauce Central rsquos own unique twist on the American classic cookie is the Central Oreo Keksz two dark chocolate bis-cuits with a white choco-late cream in the center
Hours______ Open daily from 800am
until 1100pm
Access______
Central Cafeacute is just south of the Ferenciek tere (Metro) line and is only 4 blocks east of the Dan-ube
Contact_____
Tel +36 1 266 2110
Website
wwwcentralkavehazhu
Central Cafeacute (east side near Elizabeth Bridge) One of the oldest ldquoVienna-stylerdquo cafeacute-restaurants in Budapest is the Central Cafeacute It opened in 1887 as the grandest of all of Budapestrsquos historic cafes Central Cafeacute was not only a place where poets converged It also served as the gathering place for staff and writers of Nyugat the literary periodical publishing then perceived revolutionary
articles Like other kaveacutehazak in Budapest the Central was closed by the communist government It was one of the first to reopen following the fall of communism in 1989 The vaulted ceilings are only out-matched by the leather and mahogany furniture but together they hold the history of
Budapestsrsquo tumultuous past
Central Cafeacute was unusually quiet during my mid-day stop according to the hostess Construction had blocked of two of the four streets on Centralrsquos corner The ambience was only enhanced as the big band era songs echoed in the high ceilings For this visit I opted for the classic Eszterhazy tortamdasha traditional Hungarian cake named after Prince Paul III Eszterhazy de Galanthamdashwhich is a multi-layered confection-er of buttercream sponge cake walnut paste and a white sugar glaze This delicious treat is easily identified by its spider-web like decoration on top To this nutty delight I added a pot of Earl Grey with honey
and lemon
Karolyi Mihaly utca 9 1053 Budapest Hungary
11
Tea Room Treasures of Budapest
ldquoYoung people old people and people with fami-
liesthey all come to Central to socializerdquo
13
Classic Eszterhazy torta (top) Cakes and pastries under glass (above)rsquo
Central Cafeacutersquos signature mugs (right)
12
Winter 2014-2015
Menu Gerloczy caters to any taste serving classic cui-sine for breakfast lunch and dinner From backed-fresh croissants and Viennese sausages to squid in rustic sauce or paprdelle with giant shrimp and duck liver Although less focused on desserts you can enjoy classics such as cregraveme brule or lemon tart or enjoy Asian lemongrass cake Gerloczyrsquos chefs are also very creative when it comes to choco-
late
Hours______
Open daily from 7am to 11pm but ldquotea timerdquo is
from 400pm to 600pm
Access_____
Gerloczy is located on its namesake ldquoGerloczy streetrdquo situated at the crossroads of Gerloczy and Vitkovics Mihaly streets Only taxis resi-dents and permit holders can enterpark in the square but there are two car parks nearby with discounts for guests
Contact_____ Tel +36 1 501 4000
Website wwwgerloczyhu
Gerloczy Kaveacutehaz (east side of Danube)
One of the more unusual of Budapestrsquos kaveacutehazak is Gerloczyrsquos which also offers guests elegant accommodations The building dates from 1892 and is in the early Parisian-style to include bistro outdoor dining Gerloczy is also famous for its Hollywood links with rumors of Steven Spielberg shooting a scene for the movie ldquoMunichrdquo inside
the kaveacutehaz as a replacement for a Parisian bistro The interior both upstairs and downstairs is very reminiscent of European style and there is a real sense of nostalgia with the soft sounds of Louis Armstrong playing in the background There is both indoor and outdoor seat-ing and lively conversations are
readily available
Rather than have cakes or sweets I opted for a light brunch selecting the ham and cheese in a light and flakey puff pastry Adorning the pastry was mountain of sprigs and lettuce with a drizzle of oil and vin-aigrette dressing and I topped it off with loose leave Earl Grey tea in a
signature Gerloczy Cafeacute
The pastry oozed with several French cheeses another specialty of Gerloczyrsquos Parisian food repertoire which enhanced the flavor of the
smoked ham This was a fabulously rich and filling brunch
Gerloczy st 1 1052 Budapest Hungary
11
Tea Room Treasures of Budapest
ldquoA kaveacutehaz with a littlelsquo slice of Parisrsquordquo
15
Ham in puff pastry with fresh salad (top) Locals socializing in a classic setting (above)
Loose-leaf Earl Grey in a signature mug (right)
12
Winter 2014-2015
For the next edition of lsquoTea Room Treasuresrsquo we shake off those winter blues and welcome Spring with a tour of tea rooms in East Anglia Betty Bumbles Vintage Tea Rooms (St Neots) Woodford Mill Tea Room (Ringsted Northamptonshire) The Barn Tea Rooms (Burwash Manor Cambridge)
Spring 2015 Issue Preview
A special thanks to the staff and management of each of the kaveacutehazak highlighted Everyone was kind warm welcoming and accommodating Owners kindly provided historic details and allowed me to tour their establishments And despite my non-existent language skills locals happily provided me with their views on socialism democracy and poetry mdashand of course their favorite cakes and sweets
Special Thanks (Koumlszoumlnoumlm)
13
Tea Room Treasures of Budapest
CA Eccles WriterPhotographer
Member Royal Photographic Society
ArchaeologyHeritage Group
Travel Group
DocumentaryVideo Journalism
Channel 7 Film Production Company
Set Photographer
PADI-certified SCUBA Diver
Earth is home to billions of people with rich cultures traditions histories and perspectives Writer and photographer Cindy A Eccles (aka CA Eccles) seeks to capture these and other wonders of life through both word and sight Her goal bridge geographic and cultural divides to build trust and tolerance so that we can all appreciate and celebrate our uniqueness and
commonalities with mutual respect
Cindy has advanced degrees in archaeologyanthropology and international relations and a post-graduate degree in journalism She has published both fiction and non-fiction works including former Senator William Coxonrsquos papers (1930-1960) on his pursuits to understand and document petroglyphs Cindy also writes for the Heritage Daily magazine on issues
concerning risks to world heritage
Separately Cindy contributes to travel magazines and news outlets on a variety of travel-related topics You can also follow her travel blogmdashldquoON the Beaten Pathrdquomdashhighlighting travel experiences to lesser known gems within already popular tourist destinations One does not need to travel ldquooff the beaten pathrdquo
to have a memorable and unique experience
Cindy is also a professional photographer with interests in the landscape travel and heritage genres Images from her series on life in Sanliurfa Turkey was exhibited by the Los Angeles Pho-to Festival in April and Cindyrsquos images and articles have been published by the Royal Photographic Society heritage and trav-
el magazines
You can keep up with Cindyrsquos adventures and view her latest photo galleries by visiting wwwcaecclescom and she can be
reached by email at caecclescaecclescom
CindyEccles
CA Eccles
14
Winter 2014-2015
wwwpixotocomcaeccles
copy CA Eccles 2014 All rights reserved
Tea Room Treasures
of Budapest
Tea Notes As a special treat for fellow seekers of the celebrated British tradition of Afternoon Tea the winter issue of Tea Room Treasures goes in search of the bohemian experience in that great Eastern European city of Budapest
While not typically considered a lsquotearsquo capital Budapest is well-known for its coffee housesmdashor Kaveacutehazak From opulent hotels to hidden backrooms the kaveacutehaz (singular) became the gathering spot for artisans poets and literary notables During the rise of communism local kaveacutehazak were labelled as anti-government establishments that were brewing more discontent than coffee
Although coffee is the Hungarian capitolrsquos mainstay tea aficiona-dos will enjoy sampling some of Eastern Europersquos tantalizing teas So sit back with your favorite lsquofeketeacute s cseacuteszersquo (coffee cup) and enjoy a visual taste of the kaveacutehazak of Budapest
~CA Eccles
2
Inside this issue Tea Notes 2
Map of Budapest 4
Kaveacutehaz History 6
Cafeacute Gerbeaud 8
Rusrzwurm Confect 10
Central Cafeacute 12
Gerloczy Kaveacutehaz 14
Special Thanks 16
Spring Issue Preview 16
About the Authorhelliphellip 17
Image Credits
Image credits all images and content provided by CA Eccles unless other-wise indicated All works under
copyright restrictions
Front Hungarian parliament in
Budapest along the River Danube
Left Chandeliers and drapery of a
kaveacutehaz
Back Streets of Budapest in the morning
copy CA Eccles 2014 All rights reserved
Winter 2014-2015
ldquoThere are few hours in life more agreeable
than the hour dedicated to the ceremony
known as afternoon teardquo (Henry James
The Portrait of a Ladymdash1843-1916)
3
Tea Room Treasures of Budapest Ruszwurm Confectioners and Cafeacute
Central Kaveacutehaz
4
Winter 2014-2015
Gerbeaud Kaveacutehaz
Gerloczy Kaveacutehaz
(Base map and callouts courtesy of Google Maps)
Hungaryrsquos
Coffee Origins
Coffee was introduced to
Hungary by Turks in the
16th century during the
reign of the Ottoman
Empire Originally
coined ldquoblack souprdquo cof-
fee became an integral
part of the culture and
social growth of the re-
gion New twists on the
old standard include ldquoice
coffeerdquo (ice cream
whipped cream choco-
late and coffee) and
ldquoEdenrdquo (espresso milk
chocolate and coconut)
ldquoA mathematician is a device for turning coffee
into theoremsrdquo Renyi Alfred (1921-1970)
The Kaveacutehaz a brief history There is still something ve ry bohemian about Budapestrsquos coffee houses or kaveacutehazak where literary notables poets and artisans of the 19th century debated
politics religion and romance
At the height of the coffee-culture in Budapest in the early 19th century the city boasted over 400 separate kaveacutehazak The coffee culture flourished under the Austro-
Hungarian Empire and the local kaveacutehaz witnessed lively debates between Populists championing the rights of peasants and the rigid communist parties spouting
the doctrine of social realism
But as communism swept through Europe kaveacutehazsak were forced into closure cited as being too ldquouniquerdquo or were secret meeting locations for
anti-establishment poets
Crowning of Franz Josef and Elisabeth as king and queen of Hungary
1867 (courtesy Wikimedia Commons)
5
6 6 6
Tea Room Treasures of Budapest
Antique candelabra
Budapest
Coffee mdash the
Hungarian way
Coffee is big business world-wide from the Starbucks and Costa Coffees to the Mc Cafeacutes Todayrsquos chain coffee houses cater to the people-
on-the-go culture
Hungarians also like their morning cup of java but prefer the traditional style of enjoying a super strong espresso either in the opulence of a restored grand hotel or in a classic
baroque cafeacute
International coffee chains are found in Budapest but it is no sur-prise that locals still prefer the traditional in-dependent kaveacutehaz
An antique rocking horse hangs at the entrance of
the Gerloczy Kaveacutehaz
With the fall of the Berlin Wall in 1989 and the subsequent collapse of the Soviet Union many of Budapestrsquos historic cafeacutes reopened and were renovated and again became
the center of social cultural and political engagement
Today equally spirited conversations on climate change or austerity measures can be heard in kaveacutehazak throughout Budapest Historic establishments such as the Central Kaveacutehaz or Ruszwurm Confectioners and Cafeacute as well as newer cafeacutes lining the streets of Budapest are bursting with locals and tourists alike adding to the vibrancy of the coffee culture and
all while enjoying a strong coffee or a nice cup of tea
A cup of organic Earl Grey at Gerbeaudrsquos
6
Winter 2014-2015
ldquoIf this is coffee please bring me some tea if this
is tea please bring me some coffeerdquo
Abraham Lincoln (1809-1865)
Menu The dessert menu is long and varied with cakes confectioneries sundaes walnut cream-filled
pancakes and more
The Bistrorsquos menu includes the classics goulash and Szekely cabbage (pork and sauerkraut stew) as well as western favorites beef or pork burgers and Turkey lsquocordon
bleursquo
Hours______
Open daily from 9am
until 9pm
Bistro hours 12pm
until 10pm
Access_____
Vorosmarty Square is a pedestrian shopping district but with easy access via the metro
Vorosmarty station
Contact_____
Tel +36 1 429 900 wwwgerbeaudhu
gerbeaudgerbeaudhu
Cafeacute Gerbeaud (East side of Danube)
One of Europersquos most famous cafeacutes operating since the mid 19th century Gerbeaud oozes
opulence and tradition
Perched on the northern side of Vorosmarty Square on the east side of the Danube (the old city of Pestside of Budapest) Gerbeaudrsquos was established by a Swiss pastry chef Emile Gerbeaud in 1858
Gerbeaudrsquos once catered to the more upscale clientele and elements of that once-upon-a-time grandeur are still seen today through sparkling chandeliers and exquisite
mahogany woodwork
Gerbeaudrsquos occupies a long stretch of Vorosmarty Square providing excellent views into
the Christmas Market
Cafeacute Gerbeaud Vorosmarty ter 7-8 1051 Budapest
Cafeacute Gerbeaud was the first stop on my tour of kaveacutehazak and I was not disappointed I opted for organic Earl Grey tea with blue blossoms accompanied by a Gerbeaud classicmdashthe Somloi sponge cake with sponge-custard blended cake covered with takoj aszu (a full-bodied sweet dessert wine but in this case cooked with bitter chocolate) whipped cream and topped with grated walnuts thickened chocolate syrup and chocolate stems Ordinarily I shy away from desserts cooked with alcohol as I am not a fan of the usually-present alcohol taste However the takoj aszu was barely discernable serving to enhance the
nutty-custard cake
7
Tea Room Treasures of Budapest
ldquoAll of the staff agree Somloi sponge cake is the favoriterdquo
Festive floral arrangements adorn a glass dessert display (above) one of many sparkling chandeliers adding to Gerbeaudrsquos grandeur
(right)
8
Winter 2014-2015
Menu The list of cakes pastries and desserts is too exten-sive to list But classics include the buttery Boer crescent the Tirol Strudel (named for one of the founders) and classic round pastries made with potatoes cheese or cab-bage Or try a traditional pogacsa (Hungarian scone) if you prefer something a little less sweet A variety of teas coffees and cap-puccinos are also available
Hours______ Spring-Fall 9am-8pm
Winter 1000am-700pm
Access_____
Walkers can take a tram from the base of Chain Bridge to the Castle district Parking is limited and mostly for residents
Contact_____ Tel +36 1 375 5284 Website
wwwruszwurmhu
Ruszwurm Cafeacute (West side Castle District)
Just to the west of Matyas
Templom (St Matthewrsquos
Church) is one of Budapestrsquos
oldest and most traditional
coffee houses It opened in 1827
and was favored by Hungaryrsquos
Queen Elisabeth One owner
was jailed after the Revolution-
ary war (1848-1849) and today
the kaveacutehaz is run by the last
Hungarian confectionary family
Ruszwurmrsquos is very popular with
locals and tourists especially on
the weekends The seating area is
cozy so it is best to visit on a day
when you can leave your back-
pack behind
I highly recommend visiting
the website (be patient) before
your visit for a brief history of
Ruszwurm and a trip back in
time to the ldquogood ole daysrdquo
I decided to stock up on desserts ordering two house favorites Ruszwurm Kreme (3-4 inches of vanilla-almond cregraveme sandwiched between two flaky pastries and dusted with confectionersrsquo sugar) and Dobos cake (11 layers of alternating sponge and chocolate cream with a brittle toffee topping and chocolate sprinkles down the side) Rather than tea I opted for a double-cregraveme hot chocolate dusted with of
course more chocolate
Szentharomsag utca 7 1014 Budapest Hungary
9
Tea Room Treasures of Budapest
Dobos cakersquos 11 layers of heaven (top) A bowl of artistically styled oranges with cloves served as an organic air freshener (above) glass mug of double-cregraveme hot
chocolate (right)
10
Winter 2014-2015
ldquoThe Dobos cake is really 11 layers of heaven all on one platerdquo
Menu Central Cafeacutersquos menu is extensive with signature drinks Cafeacute Pepperino the Kapuciner and the Central Kaveacute with al-mond liquor caramelized nut and whipped cream For meals the menu in-cludes Magyaros reggeli (eggs sausage and onion with Hungarian cheese spread and garden vege-tables) and a variety of soups salads and plated meals such as black cod fillet and chicken with plum sauce Central rsquos own unique twist on the American classic cookie is the Central Oreo Keksz two dark chocolate bis-cuits with a white choco-late cream in the center
Hours______ Open daily from 800am
until 1100pm
Access______
Central Cafeacute is just south of the Ferenciek tere (Metro) line and is only 4 blocks east of the Dan-ube
Contact_____
Tel +36 1 266 2110
Website
wwwcentralkavehazhu
Central Cafeacute (east side near Elizabeth Bridge) One of the oldest ldquoVienna-stylerdquo cafeacute-restaurants in Budapest is the Central Cafeacute It opened in 1887 as the grandest of all of Budapestrsquos historic cafes Central Cafeacute was not only a place where poets converged It also served as the gathering place for staff and writers of Nyugat the literary periodical publishing then perceived revolutionary
articles Like other kaveacutehazak in Budapest the Central was closed by the communist government It was one of the first to reopen following the fall of communism in 1989 The vaulted ceilings are only out-matched by the leather and mahogany furniture but together they hold the history of
Budapestsrsquo tumultuous past
Central Cafeacute was unusually quiet during my mid-day stop according to the hostess Construction had blocked of two of the four streets on Centralrsquos corner The ambience was only enhanced as the big band era songs echoed in the high ceilings For this visit I opted for the classic Eszterhazy tortamdasha traditional Hungarian cake named after Prince Paul III Eszterhazy de Galanthamdashwhich is a multi-layered confection-er of buttercream sponge cake walnut paste and a white sugar glaze This delicious treat is easily identified by its spider-web like decoration on top To this nutty delight I added a pot of Earl Grey with honey
and lemon
Karolyi Mihaly utca 9 1053 Budapest Hungary
11
Tea Room Treasures of Budapest
ldquoYoung people old people and people with fami-
liesthey all come to Central to socializerdquo
13
Classic Eszterhazy torta (top) Cakes and pastries under glass (above)rsquo
Central Cafeacutersquos signature mugs (right)
12
Winter 2014-2015
Menu Gerloczy caters to any taste serving classic cui-sine for breakfast lunch and dinner From backed-fresh croissants and Viennese sausages to squid in rustic sauce or paprdelle with giant shrimp and duck liver Although less focused on desserts you can enjoy classics such as cregraveme brule or lemon tart or enjoy Asian lemongrass cake Gerloczyrsquos chefs are also very creative when it comes to choco-
late
Hours______
Open daily from 7am to 11pm but ldquotea timerdquo is
from 400pm to 600pm
Access_____
Gerloczy is located on its namesake ldquoGerloczy streetrdquo situated at the crossroads of Gerloczy and Vitkovics Mihaly streets Only taxis resi-dents and permit holders can enterpark in the square but there are two car parks nearby with discounts for guests
Contact_____ Tel +36 1 501 4000
Website wwwgerloczyhu
Gerloczy Kaveacutehaz (east side of Danube)
One of the more unusual of Budapestrsquos kaveacutehazak is Gerloczyrsquos which also offers guests elegant accommodations The building dates from 1892 and is in the early Parisian-style to include bistro outdoor dining Gerloczy is also famous for its Hollywood links with rumors of Steven Spielberg shooting a scene for the movie ldquoMunichrdquo inside
the kaveacutehaz as a replacement for a Parisian bistro The interior both upstairs and downstairs is very reminiscent of European style and there is a real sense of nostalgia with the soft sounds of Louis Armstrong playing in the background There is both indoor and outdoor seat-ing and lively conversations are
readily available
Rather than have cakes or sweets I opted for a light brunch selecting the ham and cheese in a light and flakey puff pastry Adorning the pastry was mountain of sprigs and lettuce with a drizzle of oil and vin-aigrette dressing and I topped it off with loose leave Earl Grey tea in a
signature Gerloczy Cafeacute
The pastry oozed with several French cheeses another specialty of Gerloczyrsquos Parisian food repertoire which enhanced the flavor of the
smoked ham This was a fabulously rich and filling brunch
Gerloczy st 1 1052 Budapest Hungary
11
Tea Room Treasures of Budapest
ldquoA kaveacutehaz with a littlelsquo slice of Parisrsquordquo
15
Ham in puff pastry with fresh salad (top) Locals socializing in a classic setting (above)
Loose-leaf Earl Grey in a signature mug (right)
12
Winter 2014-2015
For the next edition of lsquoTea Room Treasuresrsquo we shake off those winter blues and welcome Spring with a tour of tea rooms in East Anglia Betty Bumbles Vintage Tea Rooms (St Neots) Woodford Mill Tea Room (Ringsted Northamptonshire) The Barn Tea Rooms (Burwash Manor Cambridge)
Spring 2015 Issue Preview
A special thanks to the staff and management of each of the kaveacutehazak highlighted Everyone was kind warm welcoming and accommodating Owners kindly provided historic details and allowed me to tour their establishments And despite my non-existent language skills locals happily provided me with their views on socialism democracy and poetry mdashand of course their favorite cakes and sweets
Special Thanks (Koumlszoumlnoumlm)
13
Tea Room Treasures of Budapest
CA Eccles WriterPhotographer
Member Royal Photographic Society
ArchaeologyHeritage Group
Travel Group
DocumentaryVideo Journalism
Channel 7 Film Production Company
Set Photographer
PADI-certified SCUBA Diver
Earth is home to billions of people with rich cultures traditions histories and perspectives Writer and photographer Cindy A Eccles (aka CA Eccles) seeks to capture these and other wonders of life through both word and sight Her goal bridge geographic and cultural divides to build trust and tolerance so that we can all appreciate and celebrate our uniqueness and
commonalities with mutual respect
Cindy has advanced degrees in archaeologyanthropology and international relations and a post-graduate degree in journalism She has published both fiction and non-fiction works including former Senator William Coxonrsquos papers (1930-1960) on his pursuits to understand and document petroglyphs Cindy also writes for the Heritage Daily magazine on issues
concerning risks to world heritage
Separately Cindy contributes to travel magazines and news outlets on a variety of travel-related topics You can also follow her travel blogmdashldquoON the Beaten Pathrdquomdashhighlighting travel experiences to lesser known gems within already popular tourist destinations One does not need to travel ldquooff the beaten pathrdquo
to have a memorable and unique experience
Cindy is also a professional photographer with interests in the landscape travel and heritage genres Images from her series on life in Sanliurfa Turkey was exhibited by the Los Angeles Pho-to Festival in April and Cindyrsquos images and articles have been published by the Royal Photographic Society heritage and trav-
el magazines
You can keep up with Cindyrsquos adventures and view her latest photo galleries by visiting wwwcaecclescom and she can be
reached by email at caecclescaecclescom
CindyEccles
CA Eccles
14
Winter 2014-2015
wwwpixotocomcaeccles
copy CA Eccles 2014 All rights reserved
3
Tea Room Treasures of Budapest Ruszwurm Confectioners and Cafeacute
Central Kaveacutehaz
4
Winter 2014-2015
Gerbeaud Kaveacutehaz
Gerloczy Kaveacutehaz
(Base map and callouts courtesy of Google Maps)
Hungaryrsquos
Coffee Origins
Coffee was introduced to
Hungary by Turks in the
16th century during the
reign of the Ottoman
Empire Originally
coined ldquoblack souprdquo cof-
fee became an integral
part of the culture and
social growth of the re-
gion New twists on the
old standard include ldquoice
coffeerdquo (ice cream
whipped cream choco-
late and coffee) and
ldquoEdenrdquo (espresso milk
chocolate and coconut)
ldquoA mathematician is a device for turning coffee
into theoremsrdquo Renyi Alfred (1921-1970)
The Kaveacutehaz a brief history There is still something ve ry bohemian about Budapestrsquos coffee houses or kaveacutehazak where literary notables poets and artisans of the 19th century debated
politics religion and romance
At the height of the coffee-culture in Budapest in the early 19th century the city boasted over 400 separate kaveacutehazak The coffee culture flourished under the Austro-
Hungarian Empire and the local kaveacutehaz witnessed lively debates between Populists championing the rights of peasants and the rigid communist parties spouting
the doctrine of social realism
But as communism swept through Europe kaveacutehazsak were forced into closure cited as being too ldquouniquerdquo or were secret meeting locations for
anti-establishment poets
Crowning of Franz Josef and Elisabeth as king and queen of Hungary
1867 (courtesy Wikimedia Commons)
5
6 6 6
Tea Room Treasures of Budapest
Antique candelabra
Budapest
Coffee mdash the
Hungarian way
Coffee is big business world-wide from the Starbucks and Costa Coffees to the Mc Cafeacutes Todayrsquos chain coffee houses cater to the people-
on-the-go culture
Hungarians also like their morning cup of java but prefer the traditional style of enjoying a super strong espresso either in the opulence of a restored grand hotel or in a classic
baroque cafeacute
International coffee chains are found in Budapest but it is no sur-prise that locals still prefer the traditional in-dependent kaveacutehaz
An antique rocking horse hangs at the entrance of
the Gerloczy Kaveacutehaz
With the fall of the Berlin Wall in 1989 and the subsequent collapse of the Soviet Union many of Budapestrsquos historic cafeacutes reopened and were renovated and again became
the center of social cultural and political engagement
Today equally spirited conversations on climate change or austerity measures can be heard in kaveacutehazak throughout Budapest Historic establishments such as the Central Kaveacutehaz or Ruszwurm Confectioners and Cafeacute as well as newer cafeacutes lining the streets of Budapest are bursting with locals and tourists alike adding to the vibrancy of the coffee culture and
all while enjoying a strong coffee or a nice cup of tea
A cup of organic Earl Grey at Gerbeaudrsquos
6
Winter 2014-2015
ldquoIf this is coffee please bring me some tea if this
is tea please bring me some coffeerdquo
Abraham Lincoln (1809-1865)
Menu The dessert menu is long and varied with cakes confectioneries sundaes walnut cream-filled
pancakes and more
The Bistrorsquos menu includes the classics goulash and Szekely cabbage (pork and sauerkraut stew) as well as western favorites beef or pork burgers and Turkey lsquocordon
bleursquo
Hours______
Open daily from 9am
until 9pm
Bistro hours 12pm
until 10pm
Access_____
Vorosmarty Square is a pedestrian shopping district but with easy access via the metro
Vorosmarty station
Contact_____
Tel +36 1 429 900 wwwgerbeaudhu
gerbeaudgerbeaudhu
Cafeacute Gerbeaud (East side of Danube)
One of Europersquos most famous cafeacutes operating since the mid 19th century Gerbeaud oozes
opulence and tradition
Perched on the northern side of Vorosmarty Square on the east side of the Danube (the old city of Pestside of Budapest) Gerbeaudrsquos was established by a Swiss pastry chef Emile Gerbeaud in 1858
Gerbeaudrsquos once catered to the more upscale clientele and elements of that once-upon-a-time grandeur are still seen today through sparkling chandeliers and exquisite
mahogany woodwork
Gerbeaudrsquos occupies a long stretch of Vorosmarty Square providing excellent views into
the Christmas Market
Cafeacute Gerbeaud Vorosmarty ter 7-8 1051 Budapest
Cafeacute Gerbeaud was the first stop on my tour of kaveacutehazak and I was not disappointed I opted for organic Earl Grey tea with blue blossoms accompanied by a Gerbeaud classicmdashthe Somloi sponge cake with sponge-custard blended cake covered with takoj aszu (a full-bodied sweet dessert wine but in this case cooked with bitter chocolate) whipped cream and topped with grated walnuts thickened chocolate syrup and chocolate stems Ordinarily I shy away from desserts cooked with alcohol as I am not a fan of the usually-present alcohol taste However the takoj aszu was barely discernable serving to enhance the
nutty-custard cake
7
Tea Room Treasures of Budapest
ldquoAll of the staff agree Somloi sponge cake is the favoriterdquo
Festive floral arrangements adorn a glass dessert display (above) one of many sparkling chandeliers adding to Gerbeaudrsquos grandeur
(right)
8
Winter 2014-2015
Menu The list of cakes pastries and desserts is too exten-sive to list But classics include the buttery Boer crescent the Tirol Strudel (named for one of the founders) and classic round pastries made with potatoes cheese or cab-bage Or try a traditional pogacsa (Hungarian scone) if you prefer something a little less sweet A variety of teas coffees and cap-puccinos are also available
Hours______ Spring-Fall 9am-8pm
Winter 1000am-700pm
Access_____
Walkers can take a tram from the base of Chain Bridge to the Castle district Parking is limited and mostly for residents
Contact_____ Tel +36 1 375 5284 Website
wwwruszwurmhu
Ruszwurm Cafeacute (West side Castle District)
Just to the west of Matyas
Templom (St Matthewrsquos
Church) is one of Budapestrsquos
oldest and most traditional
coffee houses It opened in 1827
and was favored by Hungaryrsquos
Queen Elisabeth One owner
was jailed after the Revolution-
ary war (1848-1849) and today
the kaveacutehaz is run by the last
Hungarian confectionary family
Ruszwurmrsquos is very popular with
locals and tourists especially on
the weekends The seating area is
cozy so it is best to visit on a day
when you can leave your back-
pack behind
I highly recommend visiting
the website (be patient) before
your visit for a brief history of
Ruszwurm and a trip back in
time to the ldquogood ole daysrdquo
I decided to stock up on desserts ordering two house favorites Ruszwurm Kreme (3-4 inches of vanilla-almond cregraveme sandwiched between two flaky pastries and dusted with confectionersrsquo sugar) and Dobos cake (11 layers of alternating sponge and chocolate cream with a brittle toffee topping and chocolate sprinkles down the side) Rather than tea I opted for a double-cregraveme hot chocolate dusted with of
course more chocolate
Szentharomsag utca 7 1014 Budapest Hungary
9
Tea Room Treasures of Budapest
Dobos cakersquos 11 layers of heaven (top) A bowl of artistically styled oranges with cloves served as an organic air freshener (above) glass mug of double-cregraveme hot
chocolate (right)
10
Winter 2014-2015
ldquoThe Dobos cake is really 11 layers of heaven all on one platerdquo
Menu Central Cafeacutersquos menu is extensive with signature drinks Cafeacute Pepperino the Kapuciner and the Central Kaveacute with al-mond liquor caramelized nut and whipped cream For meals the menu in-cludes Magyaros reggeli (eggs sausage and onion with Hungarian cheese spread and garden vege-tables) and a variety of soups salads and plated meals such as black cod fillet and chicken with plum sauce Central rsquos own unique twist on the American classic cookie is the Central Oreo Keksz two dark chocolate bis-cuits with a white choco-late cream in the center
Hours______ Open daily from 800am
until 1100pm
Access______
Central Cafeacute is just south of the Ferenciek tere (Metro) line and is only 4 blocks east of the Dan-ube
Contact_____
Tel +36 1 266 2110
Website
wwwcentralkavehazhu
Central Cafeacute (east side near Elizabeth Bridge) One of the oldest ldquoVienna-stylerdquo cafeacute-restaurants in Budapest is the Central Cafeacute It opened in 1887 as the grandest of all of Budapestrsquos historic cafes Central Cafeacute was not only a place where poets converged It also served as the gathering place for staff and writers of Nyugat the literary periodical publishing then perceived revolutionary
articles Like other kaveacutehazak in Budapest the Central was closed by the communist government It was one of the first to reopen following the fall of communism in 1989 The vaulted ceilings are only out-matched by the leather and mahogany furniture but together they hold the history of
Budapestsrsquo tumultuous past
Central Cafeacute was unusually quiet during my mid-day stop according to the hostess Construction had blocked of two of the four streets on Centralrsquos corner The ambience was only enhanced as the big band era songs echoed in the high ceilings For this visit I opted for the classic Eszterhazy tortamdasha traditional Hungarian cake named after Prince Paul III Eszterhazy de Galanthamdashwhich is a multi-layered confection-er of buttercream sponge cake walnut paste and a white sugar glaze This delicious treat is easily identified by its spider-web like decoration on top To this nutty delight I added a pot of Earl Grey with honey
and lemon
Karolyi Mihaly utca 9 1053 Budapest Hungary
11
Tea Room Treasures of Budapest
ldquoYoung people old people and people with fami-
liesthey all come to Central to socializerdquo
13
Classic Eszterhazy torta (top) Cakes and pastries under glass (above)rsquo
Central Cafeacutersquos signature mugs (right)
12
Winter 2014-2015
Menu Gerloczy caters to any taste serving classic cui-sine for breakfast lunch and dinner From backed-fresh croissants and Viennese sausages to squid in rustic sauce or paprdelle with giant shrimp and duck liver Although less focused on desserts you can enjoy classics such as cregraveme brule or lemon tart or enjoy Asian lemongrass cake Gerloczyrsquos chefs are also very creative when it comes to choco-
late
Hours______
Open daily from 7am to 11pm but ldquotea timerdquo is
from 400pm to 600pm
Access_____
Gerloczy is located on its namesake ldquoGerloczy streetrdquo situated at the crossroads of Gerloczy and Vitkovics Mihaly streets Only taxis resi-dents and permit holders can enterpark in the square but there are two car parks nearby with discounts for guests
Contact_____ Tel +36 1 501 4000
Website wwwgerloczyhu
Gerloczy Kaveacutehaz (east side of Danube)
One of the more unusual of Budapestrsquos kaveacutehazak is Gerloczyrsquos which also offers guests elegant accommodations The building dates from 1892 and is in the early Parisian-style to include bistro outdoor dining Gerloczy is also famous for its Hollywood links with rumors of Steven Spielberg shooting a scene for the movie ldquoMunichrdquo inside
the kaveacutehaz as a replacement for a Parisian bistro The interior both upstairs and downstairs is very reminiscent of European style and there is a real sense of nostalgia with the soft sounds of Louis Armstrong playing in the background There is both indoor and outdoor seat-ing and lively conversations are
readily available
Rather than have cakes or sweets I opted for a light brunch selecting the ham and cheese in a light and flakey puff pastry Adorning the pastry was mountain of sprigs and lettuce with a drizzle of oil and vin-aigrette dressing and I topped it off with loose leave Earl Grey tea in a
signature Gerloczy Cafeacute
The pastry oozed with several French cheeses another specialty of Gerloczyrsquos Parisian food repertoire which enhanced the flavor of the
smoked ham This was a fabulously rich and filling brunch
Gerloczy st 1 1052 Budapest Hungary
11
Tea Room Treasures of Budapest
ldquoA kaveacutehaz with a littlelsquo slice of Parisrsquordquo
15
Ham in puff pastry with fresh salad (top) Locals socializing in a classic setting (above)
Loose-leaf Earl Grey in a signature mug (right)
12
Winter 2014-2015
For the next edition of lsquoTea Room Treasuresrsquo we shake off those winter blues and welcome Spring with a tour of tea rooms in East Anglia Betty Bumbles Vintage Tea Rooms (St Neots) Woodford Mill Tea Room (Ringsted Northamptonshire) The Barn Tea Rooms (Burwash Manor Cambridge)
Spring 2015 Issue Preview
A special thanks to the staff and management of each of the kaveacutehazak highlighted Everyone was kind warm welcoming and accommodating Owners kindly provided historic details and allowed me to tour their establishments And despite my non-existent language skills locals happily provided me with their views on socialism democracy and poetry mdashand of course their favorite cakes and sweets
Special Thanks (Koumlszoumlnoumlm)
13
Tea Room Treasures of Budapest
CA Eccles WriterPhotographer
Member Royal Photographic Society
ArchaeologyHeritage Group
Travel Group
DocumentaryVideo Journalism
Channel 7 Film Production Company
Set Photographer
PADI-certified SCUBA Diver
Earth is home to billions of people with rich cultures traditions histories and perspectives Writer and photographer Cindy A Eccles (aka CA Eccles) seeks to capture these and other wonders of life through both word and sight Her goal bridge geographic and cultural divides to build trust and tolerance so that we can all appreciate and celebrate our uniqueness and
commonalities with mutual respect
Cindy has advanced degrees in archaeologyanthropology and international relations and a post-graduate degree in journalism She has published both fiction and non-fiction works including former Senator William Coxonrsquos papers (1930-1960) on his pursuits to understand and document petroglyphs Cindy also writes for the Heritage Daily magazine on issues
concerning risks to world heritage
Separately Cindy contributes to travel magazines and news outlets on a variety of travel-related topics You can also follow her travel blogmdashldquoON the Beaten Pathrdquomdashhighlighting travel experiences to lesser known gems within already popular tourist destinations One does not need to travel ldquooff the beaten pathrdquo
to have a memorable and unique experience
Cindy is also a professional photographer with interests in the landscape travel and heritage genres Images from her series on life in Sanliurfa Turkey was exhibited by the Los Angeles Pho-to Festival in April and Cindyrsquos images and articles have been published by the Royal Photographic Society heritage and trav-
el magazines
You can keep up with Cindyrsquos adventures and view her latest photo galleries by visiting wwwcaecclescom and she can be
reached by email at caecclescaecclescom
CindyEccles
CA Eccles
14
Winter 2014-2015
wwwpixotocomcaeccles
copy CA Eccles 2014 All rights reserved
4
Winter 2014-2015
Gerbeaud Kaveacutehaz
Gerloczy Kaveacutehaz
(Base map and callouts courtesy of Google Maps)
Hungaryrsquos
Coffee Origins
Coffee was introduced to
Hungary by Turks in the
16th century during the
reign of the Ottoman
Empire Originally
coined ldquoblack souprdquo cof-
fee became an integral
part of the culture and
social growth of the re-
gion New twists on the
old standard include ldquoice
coffeerdquo (ice cream
whipped cream choco-
late and coffee) and
ldquoEdenrdquo (espresso milk
chocolate and coconut)
ldquoA mathematician is a device for turning coffee
into theoremsrdquo Renyi Alfred (1921-1970)
The Kaveacutehaz a brief history There is still something ve ry bohemian about Budapestrsquos coffee houses or kaveacutehazak where literary notables poets and artisans of the 19th century debated
politics religion and romance
At the height of the coffee-culture in Budapest in the early 19th century the city boasted over 400 separate kaveacutehazak The coffee culture flourished under the Austro-
Hungarian Empire and the local kaveacutehaz witnessed lively debates between Populists championing the rights of peasants and the rigid communist parties spouting
the doctrine of social realism
But as communism swept through Europe kaveacutehazsak were forced into closure cited as being too ldquouniquerdquo or were secret meeting locations for
anti-establishment poets
Crowning of Franz Josef and Elisabeth as king and queen of Hungary
1867 (courtesy Wikimedia Commons)
5
6 6 6
Tea Room Treasures of Budapest
Antique candelabra
Budapest
Coffee mdash the
Hungarian way
Coffee is big business world-wide from the Starbucks and Costa Coffees to the Mc Cafeacutes Todayrsquos chain coffee houses cater to the people-
on-the-go culture
Hungarians also like their morning cup of java but prefer the traditional style of enjoying a super strong espresso either in the opulence of a restored grand hotel or in a classic
baroque cafeacute
International coffee chains are found in Budapest but it is no sur-prise that locals still prefer the traditional in-dependent kaveacutehaz
An antique rocking horse hangs at the entrance of
the Gerloczy Kaveacutehaz
With the fall of the Berlin Wall in 1989 and the subsequent collapse of the Soviet Union many of Budapestrsquos historic cafeacutes reopened and were renovated and again became
the center of social cultural and political engagement
Today equally spirited conversations on climate change or austerity measures can be heard in kaveacutehazak throughout Budapest Historic establishments such as the Central Kaveacutehaz or Ruszwurm Confectioners and Cafeacute as well as newer cafeacutes lining the streets of Budapest are bursting with locals and tourists alike adding to the vibrancy of the coffee culture and
all while enjoying a strong coffee or a nice cup of tea
A cup of organic Earl Grey at Gerbeaudrsquos
6
Winter 2014-2015
ldquoIf this is coffee please bring me some tea if this
is tea please bring me some coffeerdquo
Abraham Lincoln (1809-1865)
Menu The dessert menu is long and varied with cakes confectioneries sundaes walnut cream-filled
pancakes and more
The Bistrorsquos menu includes the classics goulash and Szekely cabbage (pork and sauerkraut stew) as well as western favorites beef or pork burgers and Turkey lsquocordon
bleursquo
Hours______
Open daily from 9am
until 9pm
Bistro hours 12pm
until 10pm
Access_____
Vorosmarty Square is a pedestrian shopping district but with easy access via the metro
Vorosmarty station
Contact_____
Tel +36 1 429 900 wwwgerbeaudhu
gerbeaudgerbeaudhu
Cafeacute Gerbeaud (East side of Danube)
One of Europersquos most famous cafeacutes operating since the mid 19th century Gerbeaud oozes
opulence and tradition
Perched on the northern side of Vorosmarty Square on the east side of the Danube (the old city of Pestside of Budapest) Gerbeaudrsquos was established by a Swiss pastry chef Emile Gerbeaud in 1858
Gerbeaudrsquos once catered to the more upscale clientele and elements of that once-upon-a-time grandeur are still seen today through sparkling chandeliers and exquisite
mahogany woodwork
Gerbeaudrsquos occupies a long stretch of Vorosmarty Square providing excellent views into
the Christmas Market
Cafeacute Gerbeaud Vorosmarty ter 7-8 1051 Budapest
Cafeacute Gerbeaud was the first stop on my tour of kaveacutehazak and I was not disappointed I opted for organic Earl Grey tea with blue blossoms accompanied by a Gerbeaud classicmdashthe Somloi sponge cake with sponge-custard blended cake covered with takoj aszu (a full-bodied sweet dessert wine but in this case cooked with bitter chocolate) whipped cream and topped with grated walnuts thickened chocolate syrup and chocolate stems Ordinarily I shy away from desserts cooked with alcohol as I am not a fan of the usually-present alcohol taste However the takoj aszu was barely discernable serving to enhance the
nutty-custard cake
7
Tea Room Treasures of Budapest
ldquoAll of the staff agree Somloi sponge cake is the favoriterdquo
Festive floral arrangements adorn a glass dessert display (above) one of many sparkling chandeliers adding to Gerbeaudrsquos grandeur
(right)
8
Winter 2014-2015
Menu The list of cakes pastries and desserts is too exten-sive to list But classics include the buttery Boer crescent the Tirol Strudel (named for one of the founders) and classic round pastries made with potatoes cheese or cab-bage Or try a traditional pogacsa (Hungarian scone) if you prefer something a little less sweet A variety of teas coffees and cap-puccinos are also available
Hours______ Spring-Fall 9am-8pm
Winter 1000am-700pm
Access_____
Walkers can take a tram from the base of Chain Bridge to the Castle district Parking is limited and mostly for residents
Contact_____ Tel +36 1 375 5284 Website
wwwruszwurmhu
Ruszwurm Cafeacute (West side Castle District)
Just to the west of Matyas
Templom (St Matthewrsquos
Church) is one of Budapestrsquos
oldest and most traditional
coffee houses It opened in 1827
and was favored by Hungaryrsquos
Queen Elisabeth One owner
was jailed after the Revolution-
ary war (1848-1849) and today
the kaveacutehaz is run by the last
Hungarian confectionary family
Ruszwurmrsquos is very popular with
locals and tourists especially on
the weekends The seating area is
cozy so it is best to visit on a day
when you can leave your back-
pack behind
I highly recommend visiting
the website (be patient) before
your visit for a brief history of
Ruszwurm and a trip back in
time to the ldquogood ole daysrdquo
I decided to stock up on desserts ordering two house favorites Ruszwurm Kreme (3-4 inches of vanilla-almond cregraveme sandwiched between two flaky pastries and dusted with confectionersrsquo sugar) and Dobos cake (11 layers of alternating sponge and chocolate cream with a brittle toffee topping and chocolate sprinkles down the side) Rather than tea I opted for a double-cregraveme hot chocolate dusted with of
course more chocolate
Szentharomsag utca 7 1014 Budapest Hungary
9
Tea Room Treasures of Budapest
Dobos cakersquos 11 layers of heaven (top) A bowl of artistically styled oranges with cloves served as an organic air freshener (above) glass mug of double-cregraveme hot
chocolate (right)
10
Winter 2014-2015
ldquoThe Dobos cake is really 11 layers of heaven all on one platerdquo
Menu Central Cafeacutersquos menu is extensive with signature drinks Cafeacute Pepperino the Kapuciner and the Central Kaveacute with al-mond liquor caramelized nut and whipped cream For meals the menu in-cludes Magyaros reggeli (eggs sausage and onion with Hungarian cheese spread and garden vege-tables) and a variety of soups salads and plated meals such as black cod fillet and chicken with plum sauce Central rsquos own unique twist on the American classic cookie is the Central Oreo Keksz two dark chocolate bis-cuits with a white choco-late cream in the center
Hours______ Open daily from 800am
until 1100pm
Access______
Central Cafeacute is just south of the Ferenciek tere (Metro) line and is only 4 blocks east of the Dan-ube
Contact_____
Tel +36 1 266 2110
Website
wwwcentralkavehazhu
Central Cafeacute (east side near Elizabeth Bridge) One of the oldest ldquoVienna-stylerdquo cafeacute-restaurants in Budapest is the Central Cafeacute It opened in 1887 as the grandest of all of Budapestrsquos historic cafes Central Cafeacute was not only a place where poets converged It also served as the gathering place for staff and writers of Nyugat the literary periodical publishing then perceived revolutionary
articles Like other kaveacutehazak in Budapest the Central was closed by the communist government It was one of the first to reopen following the fall of communism in 1989 The vaulted ceilings are only out-matched by the leather and mahogany furniture but together they hold the history of
Budapestsrsquo tumultuous past
Central Cafeacute was unusually quiet during my mid-day stop according to the hostess Construction had blocked of two of the four streets on Centralrsquos corner The ambience was only enhanced as the big band era songs echoed in the high ceilings For this visit I opted for the classic Eszterhazy tortamdasha traditional Hungarian cake named after Prince Paul III Eszterhazy de Galanthamdashwhich is a multi-layered confection-er of buttercream sponge cake walnut paste and a white sugar glaze This delicious treat is easily identified by its spider-web like decoration on top To this nutty delight I added a pot of Earl Grey with honey
and lemon
Karolyi Mihaly utca 9 1053 Budapest Hungary
11
Tea Room Treasures of Budapest
ldquoYoung people old people and people with fami-
liesthey all come to Central to socializerdquo
13
Classic Eszterhazy torta (top) Cakes and pastries under glass (above)rsquo
Central Cafeacutersquos signature mugs (right)
12
Winter 2014-2015
Menu Gerloczy caters to any taste serving classic cui-sine for breakfast lunch and dinner From backed-fresh croissants and Viennese sausages to squid in rustic sauce or paprdelle with giant shrimp and duck liver Although less focused on desserts you can enjoy classics such as cregraveme brule or lemon tart or enjoy Asian lemongrass cake Gerloczyrsquos chefs are also very creative when it comes to choco-
late
Hours______
Open daily from 7am to 11pm but ldquotea timerdquo is
from 400pm to 600pm
Access_____
Gerloczy is located on its namesake ldquoGerloczy streetrdquo situated at the crossroads of Gerloczy and Vitkovics Mihaly streets Only taxis resi-dents and permit holders can enterpark in the square but there are two car parks nearby with discounts for guests
Contact_____ Tel +36 1 501 4000
Website wwwgerloczyhu
Gerloczy Kaveacutehaz (east side of Danube)
One of the more unusual of Budapestrsquos kaveacutehazak is Gerloczyrsquos which also offers guests elegant accommodations The building dates from 1892 and is in the early Parisian-style to include bistro outdoor dining Gerloczy is also famous for its Hollywood links with rumors of Steven Spielberg shooting a scene for the movie ldquoMunichrdquo inside
the kaveacutehaz as a replacement for a Parisian bistro The interior both upstairs and downstairs is very reminiscent of European style and there is a real sense of nostalgia with the soft sounds of Louis Armstrong playing in the background There is both indoor and outdoor seat-ing and lively conversations are
readily available
Rather than have cakes or sweets I opted for a light brunch selecting the ham and cheese in a light and flakey puff pastry Adorning the pastry was mountain of sprigs and lettuce with a drizzle of oil and vin-aigrette dressing and I topped it off with loose leave Earl Grey tea in a
signature Gerloczy Cafeacute
The pastry oozed with several French cheeses another specialty of Gerloczyrsquos Parisian food repertoire which enhanced the flavor of the
smoked ham This was a fabulously rich and filling brunch
Gerloczy st 1 1052 Budapest Hungary
11
Tea Room Treasures of Budapest
ldquoA kaveacutehaz with a littlelsquo slice of Parisrsquordquo
15
Ham in puff pastry with fresh salad (top) Locals socializing in a classic setting (above)
Loose-leaf Earl Grey in a signature mug (right)
12
Winter 2014-2015
For the next edition of lsquoTea Room Treasuresrsquo we shake off those winter blues and welcome Spring with a tour of tea rooms in East Anglia Betty Bumbles Vintage Tea Rooms (St Neots) Woodford Mill Tea Room (Ringsted Northamptonshire) The Barn Tea Rooms (Burwash Manor Cambridge)
Spring 2015 Issue Preview
A special thanks to the staff and management of each of the kaveacutehazak highlighted Everyone was kind warm welcoming and accommodating Owners kindly provided historic details and allowed me to tour their establishments And despite my non-existent language skills locals happily provided me with their views on socialism democracy and poetry mdashand of course their favorite cakes and sweets
Special Thanks (Koumlszoumlnoumlm)
13
Tea Room Treasures of Budapest
CA Eccles WriterPhotographer
Member Royal Photographic Society
ArchaeologyHeritage Group
Travel Group
DocumentaryVideo Journalism
Channel 7 Film Production Company
Set Photographer
PADI-certified SCUBA Diver
Earth is home to billions of people with rich cultures traditions histories and perspectives Writer and photographer Cindy A Eccles (aka CA Eccles) seeks to capture these and other wonders of life through both word and sight Her goal bridge geographic and cultural divides to build trust and tolerance so that we can all appreciate and celebrate our uniqueness and
commonalities with mutual respect
Cindy has advanced degrees in archaeologyanthropology and international relations and a post-graduate degree in journalism She has published both fiction and non-fiction works including former Senator William Coxonrsquos papers (1930-1960) on his pursuits to understand and document petroglyphs Cindy also writes for the Heritage Daily magazine on issues
concerning risks to world heritage
Separately Cindy contributes to travel magazines and news outlets on a variety of travel-related topics You can also follow her travel blogmdashldquoON the Beaten Pathrdquomdashhighlighting travel experiences to lesser known gems within already popular tourist destinations One does not need to travel ldquooff the beaten pathrdquo
to have a memorable and unique experience
Cindy is also a professional photographer with interests in the landscape travel and heritage genres Images from her series on life in Sanliurfa Turkey was exhibited by the Los Angeles Pho-to Festival in April and Cindyrsquos images and articles have been published by the Royal Photographic Society heritage and trav-
el magazines
You can keep up with Cindyrsquos adventures and view her latest photo galleries by visiting wwwcaecclescom and she can be
reached by email at caecclescaecclescom
CindyEccles
CA Eccles
14
Winter 2014-2015
wwwpixotocomcaeccles
copy CA Eccles 2014 All rights reserved
Hungaryrsquos
Coffee Origins
Coffee was introduced to
Hungary by Turks in the
16th century during the
reign of the Ottoman
Empire Originally
coined ldquoblack souprdquo cof-
fee became an integral
part of the culture and
social growth of the re-
gion New twists on the
old standard include ldquoice
coffeerdquo (ice cream
whipped cream choco-
late and coffee) and
ldquoEdenrdquo (espresso milk
chocolate and coconut)
ldquoA mathematician is a device for turning coffee
into theoremsrdquo Renyi Alfred (1921-1970)
The Kaveacutehaz a brief history There is still something ve ry bohemian about Budapestrsquos coffee houses or kaveacutehazak where literary notables poets and artisans of the 19th century debated
politics religion and romance
At the height of the coffee-culture in Budapest in the early 19th century the city boasted over 400 separate kaveacutehazak The coffee culture flourished under the Austro-
Hungarian Empire and the local kaveacutehaz witnessed lively debates between Populists championing the rights of peasants and the rigid communist parties spouting
the doctrine of social realism
But as communism swept through Europe kaveacutehazsak were forced into closure cited as being too ldquouniquerdquo or were secret meeting locations for
anti-establishment poets
Crowning of Franz Josef and Elisabeth as king and queen of Hungary
1867 (courtesy Wikimedia Commons)
5
6 6 6
Tea Room Treasures of Budapest
Antique candelabra
Budapest
Coffee mdash the
Hungarian way
Coffee is big business world-wide from the Starbucks and Costa Coffees to the Mc Cafeacutes Todayrsquos chain coffee houses cater to the people-
on-the-go culture
Hungarians also like their morning cup of java but prefer the traditional style of enjoying a super strong espresso either in the opulence of a restored grand hotel or in a classic
baroque cafeacute
International coffee chains are found in Budapest but it is no sur-prise that locals still prefer the traditional in-dependent kaveacutehaz
An antique rocking horse hangs at the entrance of
the Gerloczy Kaveacutehaz
With the fall of the Berlin Wall in 1989 and the subsequent collapse of the Soviet Union many of Budapestrsquos historic cafeacutes reopened and were renovated and again became
the center of social cultural and political engagement
Today equally spirited conversations on climate change or austerity measures can be heard in kaveacutehazak throughout Budapest Historic establishments such as the Central Kaveacutehaz or Ruszwurm Confectioners and Cafeacute as well as newer cafeacutes lining the streets of Budapest are bursting with locals and tourists alike adding to the vibrancy of the coffee culture and
all while enjoying a strong coffee or a nice cup of tea
A cup of organic Earl Grey at Gerbeaudrsquos
6
Winter 2014-2015
ldquoIf this is coffee please bring me some tea if this
is tea please bring me some coffeerdquo
Abraham Lincoln (1809-1865)
Menu The dessert menu is long and varied with cakes confectioneries sundaes walnut cream-filled
pancakes and more
The Bistrorsquos menu includes the classics goulash and Szekely cabbage (pork and sauerkraut stew) as well as western favorites beef or pork burgers and Turkey lsquocordon
bleursquo
Hours______
Open daily from 9am
until 9pm
Bistro hours 12pm
until 10pm
Access_____
Vorosmarty Square is a pedestrian shopping district but with easy access via the metro
Vorosmarty station
Contact_____
Tel +36 1 429 900 wwwgerbeaudhu
gerbeaudgerbeaudhu
Cafeacute Gerbeaud (East side of Danube)
One of Europersquos most famous cafeacutes operating since the mid 19th century Gerbeaud oozes
opulence and tradition
Perched on the northern side of Vorosmarty Square on the east side of the Danube (the old city of Pestside of Budapest) Gerbeaudrsquos was established by a Swiss pastry chef Emile Gerbeaud in 1858
Gerbeaudrsquos once catered to the more upscale clientele and elements of that once-upon-a-time grandeur are still seen today through sparkling chandeliers and exquisite
mahogany woodwork
Gerbeaudrsquos occupies a long stretch of Vorosmarty Square providing excellent views into
the Christmas Market
Cafeacute Gerbeaud Vorosmarty ter 7-8 1051 Budapest
Cafeacute Gerbeaud was the first stop on my tour of kaveacutehazak and I was not disappointed I opted for organic Earl Grey tea with blue blossoms accompanied by a Gerbeaud classicmdashthe Somloi sponge cake with sponge-custard blended cake covered with takoj aszu (a full-bodied sweet dessert wine but in this case cooked with bitter chocolate) whipped cream and topped with grated walnuts thickened chocolate syrup and chocolate stems Ordinarily I shy away from desserts cooked with alcohol as I am not a fan of the usually-present alcohol taste However the takoj aszu was barely discernable serving to enhance the
nutty-custard cake
7
Tea Room Treasures of Budapest
ldquoAll of the staff agree Somloi sponge cake is the favoriterdquo
Festive floral arrangements adorn a glass dessert display (above) one of many sparkling chandeliers adding to Gerbeaudrsquos grandeur
(right)
8
Winter 2014-2015
Menu The list of cakes pastries and desserts is too exten-sive to list But classics include the buttery Boer crescent the Tirol Strudel (named for one of the founders) and classic round pastries made with potatoes cheese or cab-bage Or try a traditional pogacsa (Hungarian scone) if you prefer something a little less sweet A variety of teas coffees and cap-puccinos are also available
Hours______ Spring-Fall 9am-8pm
Winter 1000am-700pm
Access_____
Walkers can take a tram from the base of Chain Bridge to the Castle district Parking is limited and mostly for residents
Contact_____ Tel +36 1 375 5284 Website
wwwruszwurmhu
Ruszwurm Cafeacute (West side Castle District)
Just to the west of Matyas
Templom (St Matthewrsquos
Church) is one of Budapestrsquos
oldest and most traditional
coffee houses It opened in 1827
and was favored by Hungaryrsquos
Queen Elisabeth One owner
was jailed after the Revolution-
ary war (1848-1849) and today
the kaveacutehaz is run by the last
Hungarian confectionary family
Ruszwurmrsquos is very popular with
locals and tourists especially on
the weekends The seating area is
cozy so it is best to visit on a day
when you can leave your back-
pack behind
I highly recommend visiting
the website (be patient) before
your visit for a brief history of
Ruszwurm and a trip back in
time to the ldquogood ole daysrdquo
I decided to stock up on desserts ordering two house favorites Ruszwurm Kreme (3-4 inches of vanilla-almond cregraveme sandwiched between two flaky pastries and dusted with confectionersrsquo sugar) and Dobos cake (11 layers of alternating sponge and chocolate cream with a brittle toffee topping and chocolate sprinkles down the side) Rather than tea I opted for a double-cregraveme hot chocolate dusted with of
course more chocolate
Szentharomsag utca 7 1014 Budapest Hungary
9
Tea Room Treasures of Budapest
Dobos cakersquos 11 layers of heaven (top) A bowl of artistically styled oranges with cloves served as an organic air freshener (above) glass mug of double-cregraveme hot
chocolate (right)
10
Winter 2014-2015
ldquoThe Dobos cake is really 11 layers of heaven all on one platerdquo
Menu Central Cafeacutersquos menu is extensive with signature drinks Cafeacute Pepperino the Kapuciner and the Central Kaveacute with al-mond liquor caramelized nut and whipped cream For meals the menu in-cludes Magyaros reggeli (eggs sausage and onion with Hungarian cheese spread and garden vege-tables) and a variety of soups salads and plated meals such as black cod fillet and chicken with plum sauce Central rsquos own unique twist on the American classic cookie is the Central Oreo Keksz two dark chocolate bis-cuits with a white choco-late cream in the center
Hours______ Open daily from 800am
until 1100pm
Access______
Central Cafeacute is just south of the Ferenciek tere (Metro) line and is only 4 blocks east of the Dan-ube
Contact_____
Tel +36 1 266 2110
Website
wwwcentralkavehazhu
Central Cafeacute (east side near Elizabeth Bridge) One of the oldest ldquoVienna-stylerdquo cafeacute-restaurants in Budapest is the Central Cafeacute It opened in 1887 as the grandest of all of Budapestrsquos historic cafes Central Cafeacute was not only a place where poets converged It also served as the gathering place for staff and writers of Nyugat the literary periodical publishing then perceived revolutionary
articles Like other kaveacutehazak in Budapest the Central was closed by the communist government It was one of the first to reopen following the fall of communism in 1989 The vaulted ceilings are only out-matched by the leather and mahogany furniture but together they hold the history of
Budapestsrsquo tumultuous past
Central Cafeacute was unusually quiet during my mid-day stop according to the hostess Construction had blocked of two of the four streets on Centralrsquos corner The ambience was only enhanced as the big band era songs echoed in the high ceilings For this visit I opted for the classic Eszterhazy tortamdasha traditional Hungarian cake named after Prince Paul III Eszterhazy de Galanthamdashwhich is a multi-layered confection-er of buttercream sponge cake walnut paste and a white sugar glaze This delicious treat is easily identified by its spider-web like decoration on top To this nutty delight I added a pot of Earl Grey with honey
and lemon
Karolyi Mihaly utca 9 1053 Budapest Hungary
11
Tea Room Treasures of Budapest
ldquoYoung people old people and people with fami-
liesthey all come to Central to socializerdquo
13
Classic Eszterhazy torta (top) Cakes and pastries under glass (above)rsquo
Central Cafeacutersquos signature mugs (right)
12
Winter 2014-2015
Menu Gerloczy caters to any taste serving classic cui-sine for breakfast lunch and dinner From backed-fresh croissants and Viennese sausages to squid in rustic sauce or paprdelle with giant shrimp and duck liver Although less focused on desserts you can enjoy classics such as cregraveme brule or lemon tart or enjoy Asian lemongrass cake Gerloczyrsquos chefs are also very creative when it comes to choco-
late
Hours______
Open daily from 7am to 11pm but ldquotea timerdquo is
from 400pm to 600pm
Access_____
Gerloczy is located on its namesake ldquoGerloczy streetrdquo situated at the crossroads of Gerloczy and Vitkovics Mihaly streets Only taxis resi-dents and permit holders can enterpark in the square but there are two car parks nearby with discounts for guests
Contact_____ Tel +36 1 501 4000
Website wwwgerloczyhu
Gerloczy Kaveacutehaz (east side of Danube)
One of the more unusual of Budapestrsquos kaveacutehazak is Gerloczyrsquos which also offers guests elegant accommodations The building dates from 1892 and is in the early Parisian-style to include bistro outdoor dining Gerloczy is also famous for its Hollywood links with rumors of Steven Spielberg shooting a scene for the movie ldquoMunichrdquo inside
the kaveacutehaz as a replacement for a Parisian bistro The interior both upstairs and downstairs is very reminiscent of European style and there is a real sense of nostalgia with the soft sounds of Louis Armstrong playing in the background There is both indoor and outdoor seat-ing and lively conversations are
readily available
Rather than have cakes or sweets I opted for a light brunch selecting the ham and cheese in a light and flakey puff pastry Adorning the pastry was mountain of sprigs and lettuce with a drizzle of oil and vin-aigrette dressing and I topped it off with loose leave Earl Grey tea in a
signature Gerloczy Cafeacute
The pastry oozed with several French cheeses another specialty of Gerloczyrsquos Parisian food repertoire which enhanced the flavor of the
smoked ham This was a fabulously rich and filling brunch
Gerloczy st 1 1052 Budapest Hungary
11
Tea Room Treasures of Budapest
ldquoA kaveacutehaz with a littlelsquo slice of Parisrsquordquo
15
Ham in puff pastry with fresh salad (top) Locals socializing in a classic setting (above)
Loose-leaf Earl Grey in a signature mug (right)
12
Winter 2014-2015
For the next edition of lsquoTea Room Treasuresrsquo we shake off those winter blues and welcome Spring with a tour of tea rooms in East Anglia Betty Bumbles Vintage Tea Rooms (St Neots) Woodford Mill Tea Room (Ringsted Northamptonshire) The Barn Tea Rooms (Burwash Manor Cambridge)
Spring 2015 Issue Preview
A special thanks to the staff and management of each of the kaveacutehazak highlighted Everyone was kind warm welcoming and accommodating Owners kindly provided historic details and allowed me to tour their establishments And despite my non-existent language skills locals happily provided me with their views on socialism democracy and poetry mdashand of course their favorite cakes and sweets
Special Thanks (Koumlszoumlnoumlm)
13
Tea Room Treasures of Budapest
CA Eccles WriterPhotographer
Member Royal Photographic Society
ArchaeologyHeritage Group
Travel Group
DocumentaryVideo Journalism
Channel 7 Film Production Company
Set Photographer
PADI-certified SCUBA Diver
Earth is home to billions of people with rich cultures traditions histories and perspectives Writer and photographer Cindy A Eccles (aka CA Eccles) seeks to capture these and other wonders of life through both word and sight Her goal bridge geographic and cultural divides to build trust and tolerance so that we can all appreciate and celebrate our uniqueness and
commonalities with mutual respect
Cindy has advanced degrees in archaeologyanthropology and international relations and a post-graduate degree in journalism She has published both fiction and non-fiction works including former Senator William Coxonrsquos papers (1930-1960) on his pursuits to understand and document petroglyphs Cindy also writes for the Heritage Daily magazine on issues
concerning risks to world heritage
Separately Cindy contributes to travel magazines and news outlets on a variety of travel-related topics You can also follow her travel blogmdashldquoON the Beaten Pathrdquomdashhighlighting travel experiences to lesser known gems within already popular tourist destinations One does not need to travel ldquooff the beaten pathrdquo
to have a memorable and unique experience
Cindy is also a professional photographer with interests in the landscape travel and heritage genres Images from her series on life in Sanliurfa Turkey was exhibited by the Los Angeles Pho-to Festival in April and Cindyrsquos images and articles have been published by the Royal Photographic Society heritage and trav-
el magazines
You can keep up with Cindyrsquos adventures and view her latest photo galleries by visiting wwwcaecclescom and she can be
reached by email at caecclescaecclescom
CindyEccles
CA Eccles
14
Winter 2014-2015
wwwpixotocomcaeccles
copy CA Eccles 2014 All rights reserved
Coffee mdash the
Hungarian way
Coffee is big business world-wide from the Starbucks and Costa Coffees to the Mc Cafeacutes Todayrsquos chain coffee houses cater to the people-
on-the-go culture
Hungarians also like their morning cup of java but prefer the traditional style of enjoying a super strong espresso either in the opulence of a restored grand hotel or in a classic
baroque cafeacute
International coffee chains are found in Budapest but it is no sur-prise that locals still prefer the traditional in-dependent kaveacutehaz
An antique rocking horse hangs at the entrance of
the Gerloczy Kaveacutehaz
With the fall of the Berlin Wall in 1989 and the subsequent collapse of the Soviet Union many of Budapestrsquos historic cafeacutes reopened and were renovated and again became
the center of social cultural and political engagement
Today equally spirited conversations on climate change or austerity measures can be heard in kaveacutehazak throughout Budapest Historic establishments such as the Central Kaveacutehaz or Ruszwurm Confectioners and Cafeacute as well as newer cafeacutes lining the streets of Budapest are bursting with locals and tourists alike adding to the vibrancy of the coffee culture and
all while enjoying a strong coffee or a nice cup of tea
A cup of organic Earl Grey at Gerbeaudrsquos
6
Winter 2014-2015
ldquoIf this is coffee please bring me some tea if this
is tea please bring me some coffeerdquo
Abraham Lincoln (1809-1865)
Menu The dessert menu is long and varied with cakes confectioneries sundaes walnut cream-filled
pancakes and more
The Bistrorsquos menu includes the classics goulash and Szekely cabbage (pork and sauerkraut stew) as well as western favorites beef or pork burgers and Turkey lsquocordon
bleursquo
Hours______
Open daily from 9am
until 9pm
Bistro hours 12pm
until 10pm
Access_____
Vorosmarty Square is a pedestrian shopping district but with easy access via the metro
Vorosmarty station
Contact_____
Tel +36 1 429 900 wwwgerbeaudhu
gerbeaudgerbeaudhu
Cafeacute Gerbeaud (East side of Danube)
One of Europersquos most famous cafeacutes operating since the mid 19th century Gerbeaud oozes
opulence and tradition
Perched on the northern side of Vorosmarty Square on the east side of the Danube (the old city of Pestside of Budapest) Gerbeaudrsquos was established by a Swiss pastry chef Emile Gerbeaud in 1858
Gerbeaudrsquos once catered to the more upscale clientele and elements of that once-upon-a-time grandeur are still seen today through sparkling chandeliers and exquisite
mahogany woodwork
Gerbeaudrsquos occupies a long stretch of Vorosmarty Square providing excellent views into
the Christmas Market
Cafeacute Gerbeaud Vorosmarty ter 7-8 1051 Budapest
Cafeacute Gerbeaud was the first stop on my tour of kaveacutehazak and I was not disappointed I opted for organic Earl Grey tea with blue blossoms accompanied by a Gerbeaud classicmdashthe Somloi sponge cake with sponge-custard blended cake covered with takoj aszu (a full-bodied sweet dessert wine but in this case cooked with bitter chocolate) whipped cream and topped with grated walnuts thickened chocolate syrup and chocolate stems Ordinarily I shy away from desserts cooked with alcohol as I am not a fan of the usually-present alcohol taste However the takoj aszu was barely discernable serving to enhance the
nutty-custard cake
7
Tea Room Treasures of Budapest
ldquoAll of the staff agree Somloi sponge cake is the favoriterdquo
Festive floral arrangements adorn a glass dessert display (above) one of many sparkling chandeliers adding to Gerbeaudrsquos grandeur
(right)
8
Winter 2014-2015
Menu The list of cakes pastries and desserts is too exten-sive to list But classics include the buttery Boer crescent the Tirol Strudel (named for one of the founders) and classic round pastries made with potatoes cheese or cab-bage Or try a traditional pogacsa (Hungarian scone) if you prefer something a little less sweet A variety of teas coffees and cap-puccinos are also available
Hours______ Spring-Fall 9am-8pm
Winter 1000am-700pm
Access_____
Walkers can take a tram from the base of Chain Bridge to the Castle district Parking is limited and mostly for residents
Contact_____ Tel +36 1 375 5284 Website
wwwruszwurmhu
Ruszwurm Cafeacute (West side Castle District)
Just to the west of Matyas
Templom (St Matthewrsquos
Church) is one of Budapestrsquos
oldest and most traditional
coffee houses It opened in 1827
and was favored by Hungaryrsquos
Queen Elisabeth One owner
was jailed after the Revolution-
ary war (1848-1849) and today
the kaveacutehaz is run by the last
Hungarian confectionary family
Ruszwurmrsquos is very popular with
locals and tourists especially on
the weekends The seating area is
cozy so it is best to visit on a day
when you can leave your back-
pack behind
I highly recommend visiting
the website (be patient) before
your visit for a brief history of
Ruszwurm and a trip back in
time to the ldquogood ole daysrdquo
I decided to stock up on desserts ordering two house favorites Ruszwurm Kreme (3-4 inches of vanilla-almond cregraveme sandwiched between two flaky pastries and dusted with confectionersrsquo sugar) and Dobos cake (11 layers of alternating sponge and chocolate cream with a brittle toffee topping and chocolate sprinkles down the side) Rather than tea I opted for a double-cregraveme hot chocolate dusted with of
course more chocolate
Szentharomsag utca 7 1014 Budapest Hungary
9
Tea Room Treasures of Budapest
Dobos cakersquos 11 layers of heaven (top) A bowl of artistically styled oranges with cloves served as an organic air freshener (above) glass mug of double-cregraveme hot
chocolate (right)
10
Winter 2014-2015
ldquoThe Dobos cake is really 11 layers of heaven all on one platerdquo
Menu Central Cafeacutersquos menu is extensive with signature drinks Cafeacute Pepperino the Kapuciner and the Central Kaveacute with al-mond liquor caramelized nut and whipped cream For meals the menu in-cludes Magyaros reggeli (eggs sausage and onion with Hungarian cheese spread and garden vege-tables) and a variety of soups salads and plated meals such as black cod fillet and chicken with plum sauce Central rsquos own unique twist on the American classic cookie is the Central Oreo Keksz two dark chocolate bis-cuits with a white choco-late cream in the center
Hours______ Open daily from 800am
until 1100pm
Access______
Central Cafeacute is just south of the Ferenciek tere (Metro) line and is only 4 blocks east of the Dan-ube
Contact_____
Tel +36 1 266 2110
Website
wwwcentralkavehazhu
Central Cafeacute (east side near Elizabeth Bridge) One of the oldest ldquoVienna-stylerdquo cafeacute-restaurants in Budapest is the Central Cafeacute It opened in 1887 as the grandest of all of Budapestrsquos historic cafes Central Cafeacute was not only a place where poets converged It also served as the gathering place for staff and writers of Nyugat the literary periodical publishing then perceived revolutionary
articles Like other kaveacutehazak in Budapest the Central was closed by the communist government It was one of the first to reopen following the fall of communism in 1989 The vaulted ceilings are only out-matched by the leather and mahogany furniture but together they hold the history of
Budapestsrsquo tumultuous past
Central Cafeacute was unusually quiet during my mid-day stop according to the hostess Construction had blocked of two of the four streets on Centralrsquos corner The ambience was only enhanced as the big band era songs echoed in the high ceilings For this visit I opted for the classic Eszterhazy tortamdasha traditional Hungarian cake named after Prince Paul III Eszterhazy de Galanthamdashwhich is a multi-layered confection-er of buttercream sponge cake walnut paste and a white sugar glaze This delicious treat is easily identified by its spider-web like decoration on top To this nutty delight I added a pot of Earl Grey with honey
and lemon
Karolyi Mihaly utca 9 1053 Budapest Hungary
11
Tea Room Treasures of Budapest
ldquoYoung people old people and people with fami-
liesthey all come to Central to socializerdquo
13
Classic Eszterhazy torta (top) Cakes and pastries under glass (above)rsquo
Central Cafeacutersquos signature mugs (right)
12
Winter 2014-2015
Menu Gerloczy caters to any taste serving classic cui-sine for breakfast lunch and dinner From backed-fresh croissants and Viennese sausages to squid in rustic sauce or paprdelle with giant shrimp and duck liver Although less focused on desserts you can enjoy classics such as cregraveme brule or lemon tart or enjoy Asian lemongrass cake Gerloczyrsquos chefs are also very creative when it comes to choco-
late
Hours______
Open daily from 7am to 11pm but ldquotea timerdquo is
from 400pm to 600pm
Access_____
Gerloczy is located on its namesake ldquoGerloczy streetrdquo situated at the crossroads of Gerloczy and Vitkovics Mihaly streets Only taxis resi-dents and permit holders can enterpark in the square but there are two car parks nearby with discounts for guests
Contact_____ Tel +36 1 501 4000
Website wwwgerloczyhu
Gerloczy Kaveacutehaz (east side of Danube)
One of the more unusual of Budapestrsquos kaveacutehazak is Gerloczyrsquos which also offers guests elegant accommodations The building dates from 1892 and is in the early Parisian-style to include bistro outdoor dining Gerloczy is also famous for its Hollywood links with rumors of Steven Spielberg shooting a scene for the movie ldquoMunichrdquo inside
the kaveacutehaz as a replacement for a Parisian bistro The interior both upstairs and downstairs is very reminiscent of European style and there is a real sense of nostalgia with the soft sounds of Louis Armstrong playing in the background There is both indoor and outdoor seat-ing and lively conversations are
readily available
Rather than have cakes or sweets I opted for a light brunch selecting the ham and cheese in a light and flakey puff pastry Adorning the pastry was mountain of sprigs and lettuce with a drizzle of oil and vin-aigrette dressing and I topped it off with loose leave Earl Grey tea in a
signature Gerloczy Cafeacute
The pastry oozed with several French cheeses another specialty of Gerloczyrsquos Parisian food repertoire which enhanced the flavor of the
smoked ham This was a fabulously rich and filling brunch
Gerloczy st 1 1052 Budapest Hungary
11
Tea Room Treasures of Budapest
ldquoA kaveacutehaz with a littlelsquo slice of Parisrsquordquo
15
Ham in puff pastry with fresh salad (top) Locals socializing in a classic setting (above)
Loose-leaf Earl Grey in a signature mug (right)
12
Winter 2014-2015
For the next edition of lsquoTea Room Treasuresrsquo we shake off those winter blues and welcome Spring with a tour of tea rooms in East Anglia Betty Bumbles Vintage Tea Rooms (St Neots) Woodford Mill Tea Room (Ringsted Northamptonshire) The Barn Tea Rooms (Burwash Manor Cambridge)
Spring 2015 Issue Preview
A special thanks to the staff and management of each of the kaveacutehazak highlighted Everyone was kind warm welcoming and accommodating Owners kindly provided historic details and allowed me to tour their establishments And despite my non-existent language skills locals happily provided me with their views on socialism democracy and poetry mdashand of course their favorite cakes and sweets
Special Thanks (Koumlszoumlnoumlm)
13
Tea Room Treasures of Budapest
CA Eccles WriterPhotographer
Member Royal Photographic Society
ArchaeologyHeritage Group
Travel Group
DocumentaryVideo Journalism
Channel 7 Film Production Company
Set Photographer
PADI-certified SCUBA Diver
Earth is home to billions of people with rich cultures traditions histories and perspectives Writer and photographer Cindy A Eccles (aka CA Eccles) seeks to capture these and other wonders of life through both word and sight Her goal bridge geographic and cultural divides to build trust and tolerance so that we can all appreciate and celebrate our uniqueness and
commonalities with mutual respect
Cindy has advanced degrees in archaeologyanthropology and international relations and a post-graduate degree in journalism She has published both fiction and non-fiction works including former Senator William Coxonrsquos papers (1930-1960) on his pursuits to understand and document petroglyphs Cindy also writes for the Heritage Daily magazine on issues
concerning risks to world heritage
Separately Cindy contributes to travel magazines and news outlets on a variety of travel-related topics You can also follow her travel blogmdashldquoON the Beaten Pathrdquomdashhighlighting travel experiences to lesser known gems within already popular tourist destinations One does not need to travel ldquooff the beaten pathrdquo
to have a memorable and unique experience
Cindy is also a professional photographer with interests in the landscape travel and heritage genres Images from her series on life in Sanliurfa Turkey was exhibited by the Los Angeles Pho-to Festival in April and Cindyrsquos images and articles have been published by the Royal Photographic Society heritage and trav-
el magazines
You can keep up with Cindyrsquos adventures and view her latest photo galleries by visiting wwwcaecclescom and she can be
reached by email at caecclescaecclescom
CindyEccles
CA Eccles
14
Winter 2014-2015
wwwpixotocomcaeccles
copy CA Eccles 2014 All rights reserved
Menu The dessert menu is long and varied with cakes confectioneries sundaes walnut cream-filled
pancakes and more
The Bistrorsquos menu includes the classics goulash and Szekely cabbage (pork and sauerkraut stew) as well as western favorites beef or pork burgers and Turkey lsquocordon
bleursquo
Hours______
Open daily from 9am
until 9pm
Bistro hours 12pm
until 10pm
Access_____
Vorosmarty Square is a pedestrian shopping district but with easy access via the metro
Vorosmarty station
Contact_____
Tel +36 1 429 900 wwwgerbeaudhu
gerbeaudgerbeaudhu
Cafeacute Gerbeaud (East side of Danube)
One of Europersquos most famous cafeacutes operating since the mid 19th century Gerbeaud oozes
opulence and tradition
Perched on the northern side of Vorosmarty Square on the east side of the Danube (the old city of Pestside of Budapest) Gerbeaudrsquos was established by a Swiss pastry chef Emile Gerbeaud in 1858
Gerbeaudrsquos once catered to the more upscale clientele and elements of that once-upon-a-time grandeur are still seen today through sparkling chandeliers and exquisite
mahogany woodwork
Gerbeaudrsquos occupies a long stretch of Vorosmarty Square providing excellent views into
the Christmas Market
Cafeacute Gerbeaud Vorosmarty ter 7-8 1051 Budapest
Cafeacute Gerbeaud was the first stop on my tour of kaveacutehazak and I was not disappointed I opted for organic Earl Grey tea with blue blossoms accompanied by a Gerbeaud classicmdashthe Somloi sponge cake with sponge-custard blended cake covered with takoj aszu (a full-bodied sweet dessert wine but in this case cooked with bitter chocolate) whipped cream and topped with grated walnuts thickened chocolate syrup and chocolate stems Ordinarily I shy away from desserts cooked with alcohol as I am not a fan of the usually-present alcohol taste However the takoj aszu was barely discernable serving to enhance the
nutty-custard cake
7
Tea Room Treasures of Budapest
ldquoAll of the staff agree Somloi sponge cake is the favoriterdquo
Festive floral arrangements adorn a glass dessert display (above) one of many sparkling chandeliers adding to Gerbeaudrsquos grandeur
(right)
8
Winter 2014-2015
Menu The list of cakes pastries and desserts is too exten-sive to list But classics include the buttery Boer crescent the Tirol Strudel (named for one of the founders) and classic round pastries made with potatoes cheese or cab-bage Or try a traditional pogacsa (Hungarian scone) if you prefer something a little less sweet A variety of teas coffees and cap-puccinos are also available
Hours______ Spring-Fall 9am-8pm
Winter 1000am-700pm
Access_____
Walkers can take a tram from the base of Chain Bridge to the Castle district Parking is limited and mostly for residents
Contact_____ Tel +36 1 375 5284 Website
wwwruszwurmhu
Ruszwurm Cafeacute (West side Castle District)
Just to the west of Matyas
Templom (St Matthewrsquos
Church) is one of Budapestrsquos
oldest and most traditional
coffee houses It opened in 1827
and was favored by Hungaryrsquos
Queen Elisabeth One owner
was jailed after the Revolution-
ary war (1848-1849) and today
the kaveacutehaz is run by the last
Hungarian confectionary family
Ruszwurmrsquos is very popular with
locals and tourists especially on
the weekends The seating area is
cozy so it is best to visit on a day
when you can leave your back-
pack behind
I highly recommend visiting
the website (be patient) before
your visit for a brief history of
Ruszwurm and a trip back in
time to the ldquogood ole daysrdquo
I decided to stock up on desserts ordering two house favorites Ruszwurm Kreme (3-4 inches of vanilla-almond cregraveme sandwiched between two flaky pastries and dusted with confectionersrsquo sugar) and Dobos cake (11 layers of alternating sponge and chocolate cream with a brittle toffee topping and chocolate sprinkles down the side) Rather than tea I opted for a double-cregraveme hot chocolate dusted with of
course more chocolate
Szentharomsag utca 7 1014 Budapest Hungary
9
Tea Room Treasures of Budapest
Dobos cakersquos 11 layers of heaven (top) A bowl of artistically styled oranges with cloves served as an organic air freshener (above) glass mug of double-cregraveme hot
chocolate (right)
10
Winter 2014-2015
ldquoThe Dobos cake is really 11 layers of heaven all on one platerdquo
Menu Central Cafeacutersquos menu is extensive with signature drinks Cafeacute Pepperino the Kapuciner and the Central Kaveacute with al-mond liquor caramelized nut and whipped cream For meals the menu in-cludes Magyaros reggeli (eggs sausage and onion with Hungarian cheese spread and garden vege-tables) and a variety of soups salads and plated meals such as black cod fillet and chicken with plum sauce Central rsquos own unique twist on the American classic cookie is the Central Oreo Keksz two dark chocolate bis-cuits with a white choco-late cream in the center
Hours______ Open daily from 800am
until 1100pm
Access______
Central Cafeacute is just south of the Ferenciek tere (Metro) line and is only 4 blocks east of the Dan-ube
Contact_____
Tel +36 1 266 2110
Website
wwwcentralkavehazhu
Central Cafeacute (east side near Elizabeth Bridge) One of the oldest ldquoVienna-stylerdquo cafeacute-restaurants in Budapest is the Central Cafeacute It opened in 1887 as the grandest of all of Budapestrsquos historic cafes Central Cafeacute was not only a place where poets converged It also served as the gathering place for staff and writers of Nyugat the literary periodical publishing then perceived revolutionary
articles Like other kaveacutehazak in Budapest the Central was closed by the communist government It was one of the first to reopen following the fall of communism in 1989 The vaulted ceilings are only out-matched by the leather and mahogany furniture but together they hold the history of
Budapestsrsquo tumultuous past
Central Cafeacute was unusually quiet during my mid-day stop according to the hostess Construction had blocked of two of the four streets on Centralrsquos corner The ambience was only enhanced as the big band era songs echoed in the high ceilings For this visit I opted for the classic Eszterhazy tortamdasha traditional Hungarian cake named after Prince Paul III Eszterhazy de Galanthamdashwhich is a multi-layered confection-er of buttercream sponge cake walnut paste and a white sugar glaze This delicious treat is easily identified by its spider-web like decoration on top To this nutty delight I added a pot of Earl Grey with honey
and lemon
Karolyi Mihaly utca 9 1053 Budapest Hungary
11
Tea Room Treasures of Budapest
ldquoYoung people old people and people with fami-
liesthey all come to Central to socializerdquo
13
Classic Eszterhazy torta (top) Cakes and pastries under glass (above)rsquo
Central Cafeacutersquos signature mugs (right)
12
Winter 2014-2015
Menu Gerloczy caters to any taste serving classic cui-sine for breakfast lunch and dinner From backed-fresh croissants and Viennese sausages to squid in rustic sauce or paprdelle with giant shrimp and duck liver Although less focused on desserts you can enjoy classics such as cregraveme brule or lemon tart or enjoy Asian lemongrass cake Gerloczyrsquos chefs are also very creative when it comes to choco-
late
Hours______
Open daily from 7am to 11pm but ldquotea timerdquo is
from 400pm to 600pm
Access_____
Gerloczy is located on its namesake ldquoGerloczy streetrdquo situated at the crossroads of Gerloczy and Vitkovics Mihaly streets Only taxis resi-dents and permit holders can enterpark in the square but there are two car parks nearby with discounts for guests
Contact_____ Tel +36 1 501 4000
Website wwwgerloczyhu
Gerloczy Kaveacutehaz (east side of Danube)
One of the more unusual of Budapestrsquos kaveacutehazak is Gerloczyrsquos which also offers guests elegant accommodations The building dates from 1892 and is in the early Parisian-style to include bistro outdoor dining Gerloczy is also famous for its Hollywood links with rumors of Steven Spielberg shooting a scene for the movie ldquoMunichrdquo inside
the kaveacutehaz as a replacement for a Parisian bistro The interior both upstairs and downstairs is very reminiscent of European style and there is a real sense of nostalgia with the soft sounds of Louis Armstrong playing in the background There is both indoor and outdoor seat-ing and lively conversations are
readily available
Rather than have cakes or sweets I opted for a light brunch selecting the ham and cheese in a light and flakey puff pastry Adorning the pastry was mountain of sprigs and lettuce with a drizzle of oil and vin-aigrette dressing and I topped it off with loose leave Earl Grey tea in a
signature Gerloczy Cafeacute
The pastry oozed with several French cheeses another specialty of Gerloczyrsquos Parisian food repertoire which enhanced the flavor of the
smoked ham This was a fabulously rich and filling brunch
Gerloczy st 1 1052 Budapest Hungary
11
Tea Room Treasures of Budapest
ldquoA kaveacutehaz with a littlelsquo slice of Parisrsquordquo
15
Ham in puff pastry with fresh salad (top) Locals socializing in a classic setting (above)
Loose-leaf Earl Grey in a signature mug (right)
12
Winter 2014-2015
For the next edition of lsquoTea Room Treasuresrsquo we shake off those winter blues and welcome Spring with a tour of tea rooms in East Anglia Betty Bumbles Vintage Tea Rooms (St Neots) Woodford Mill Tea Room (Ringsted Northamptonshire) The Barn Tea Rooms (Burwash Manor Cambridge)
Spring 2015 Issue Preview
A special thanks to the staff and management of each of the kaveacutehazak highlighted Everyone was kind warm welcoming and accommodating Owners kindly provided historic details and allowed me to tour their establishments And despite my non-existent language skills locals happily provided me with their views on socialism democracy and poetry mdashand of course their favorite cakes and sweets
Special Thanks (Koumlszoumlnoumlm)
13
Tea Room Treasures of Budapest
CA Eccles WriterPhotographer
Member Royal Photographic Society
ArchaeologyHeritage Group
Travel Group
DocumentaryVideo Journalism
Channel 7 Film Production Company
Set Photographer
PADI-certified SCUBA Diver
Earth is home to billions of people with rich cultures traditions histories and perspectives Writer and photographer Cindy A Eccles (aka CA Eccles) seeks to capture these and other wonders of life through both word and sight Her goal bridge geographic and cultural divides to build trust and tolerance so that we can all appreciate and celebrate our uniqueness and
commonalities with mutual respect
Cindy has advanced degrees in archaeologyanthropology and international relations and a post-graduate degree in journalism She has published both fiction and non-fiction works including former Senator William Coxonrsquos papers (1930-1960) on his pursuits to understand and document petroglyphs Cindy also writes for the Heritage Daily magazine on issues
concerning risks to world heritage
Separately Cindy contributes to travel magazines and news outlets on a variety of travel-related topics You can also follow her travel blogmdashldquoON the Beaten Pathrdquomdashhighlighting travel experiences to lesser known gems within already popular tourist destinations One does not need to travel ldquooff the beaten pathrdquo
to have a memorable and unique experience
Cindy is also a professional photographer with interests in the landscape travel and heritage genres Images from her series on life in Sanliurfa Turkey was exhibited by the Los Angeles Pho-to Festival in April and Cindyrsquos images and articles have been published by the Royal Photographic Society heritage and trav-
el magazines
You can keep up with Cindyrsquos adventures and view her latest photo galleries by visiting wwwcaecclescom and she can be
reached by email at caecclescaecclescom
CindyEccles
CA Eccles
14
Winter 2014-2015
wwwpixotocomcaeccles
copy CA Eccles 2014 All rights reserved
ldquoAll of the staff agree Somloi sponge cake is the favoriterdquo
Festive floral arrangements adorn a glass dessert display (above) one of many sparkling chandeliers adding to Gerbeaudrsquos grandeur
(right)
8
Winter 2014-2015
Menu The list of cakes pastries and desserts is too exten-sive to list But classics include the buttery Boer crescent the Tirol Strudel (named for one of the founders) and classic round pastries made with potatoes cheese or cab-bage Or try a traditional pogacsa (Hungarian scone) if you prefer something a little less sweet A variety of teas coffees and cap-puccinos are also available
Hours______ Spring-Fall 9am-8pm
Winter 1000am-700pm
Access_____
Walkers can take a tram from the base of Chain Bridge to the Castle district Parking is limited and mostly for residents
Contact_____ Tel +36 1 375 5284 Website
wwwruszwurmhu
Ruszwurm Cafeacute (West side Castle District)
Just to the west of Matyas
Templom (St Matthewrsquos
Church) is one of Budapestrsquos
oldest and most traditional
coffee houses It opened in 1827
and was favored by Hungaryrsquos
Queen Elisabeth One owner
was jailed after the Revolution-
ary war (1848-1849) and today
the kaveacutehaz is run by the last
Hungarian confectionary family
Ruszwurmrsquos is very popular with
locals and tourists especially on
the weekends The seating area is
cozy so it is best to visit on a day
when you can leave your back-
pack behind
I highly recommend visiting
the website (be patient) before
your visit for a brief history of
Ruszwurm and a trip back in
time to the ldquogood ole daysrdquo
I decided to stock up on desserts ordering two house favorites Ruszwurm Kreme (3-4 inches of vanilla-almond cregraveme sandwiched between two flaky pastries and dusted with confectionersrsquo sugar) and Dobos cake (11 layers of alternating sponge and chocolate cream with a brittle toffee topping and chocolate sprinkles down the side) Rather than tea I opted for a double-cregraveme hot chocolate dusted with of
course more chocolate
Szentharomsag utca 7 1014 Budapest Hungary
9
Tea Room Treasures of Budapest
Dobos cakersquos 11 layers of heaven (top) A bowl of artistically styled oranges with cloves served as an organic air freshener (above) glass mug of double-cregraveme hot
chocolate (right)
10
Winter 2014-2015
ldquoThe Dobos cake is really 11 layers of heaven all on one platerdquo
Menu Central Cafeacutersquos menu is extensive with signature drinks Cafeacute Pepperino the Kapuciner and the Central Kaveacute with al-mond liquor caramelized nut and whipped cream For meals the menu in-cludes Magyaros reggeli (eggs sausage and onion with Hungarian cheese spread and garden vege-tables) and a variety of soups salads and plated meals such as black cod fillet and chicken with plum sauce Central rsquos own unique twist on the American classic cookie is the Central Oreo Keksz two dark chocolate bis-cuits with a white choco-late cream in the center
Hours______ Open daily from 800am
until 1100pm
Access______
Central Cafeacute is just south of the Ferenciek tere (Metro) line and is only 4 blocks east of the Dan-ube
Contact_____
Tel +36 1 266 2110
Website
wwwcentralkavehazhu
Central Cafeacute (east side near Elizabeth Bridge) One of the oldest ldquoVienna-stylerdquo cafeacute-restaurants in Budapest is the Central Cafeacute It opened in 1887 as the grandest of all of Budapestrsquos historic cafes Central Cafeacute was not only a place where poets converged It also served as the gathering place for staff and writers of Nyugat the literary periodical publishing then perceived revolutionary
articles Like other kaveacutehazak in Budapest the Central was closed by the communist government It was one of the first to reopen following the fall of communism in 1989 The vaulted ceilings are only out-matched by the leather and mahogany furniture but together they hold the history of
Budapestsrsquo tumultuous past
Central Cafeacute was unusually quiet during my mid-day stop according to the hostess Construction had blocked of two of the four streets on Centralrsquos corner The ambience was only enhanced as the big band era songs echoed in the high ceilings For this visit I opted for the classic Eszterhazy tortamdasha traditional Hungarian cake named after Prince Paul III Eszterhazy de Galanthamdashwhich is a multi-layered confection-er of buttercream sponge cake walnut paste and a white sugar glaze This delicious treat is easily identified by its spider-web like decoration on top To this nutty delight I added a pot of Earl Grey with honey
and lemon
Karolyi Mihaly utca 9 1053 Budapest Hungary
11
Tea Room Treasures of Budapest
ldquoYoung people old people and people with fami-
liesthey all come to Central to socializerdquo
13
Classic Eszterhazy torta (top) Cakes and pastries under glass (above)rsquo
Central Cafeacutersquos signature mugs (right)
12
Winter 2014-2015
Menu Gerloczy caters to any taste serving classic cui-sine for breakfast lunch and dinner From backed-fresh croissants and Viennese sausages to squid in rustic sauce or paprdelle with giant shrimp and duck liver Although less focused on desserts you can enjoy classics such as cregraveme brule or lemon tart or enjoy Asian lemongrass cake Gerloczyrsquos chefs are also very creative when it comes to choco-
late
Hours______
Open daily from 7am to 11pm but ldquotea timerdquo is
from 400pm to 600pm
Access_____
Gerloczy is located on its namesake ldquoGerloczy streetrdquo situated at the crossroads of Gerloczy and Vitkovics Mihaly streets Only taxis resi-dents and permit holders can enterpark in the square but there are two car parks nearby with discounts for guests
Contact_____ Tel +36 1 501 4000
Website wwwgerloczyhu
Gerloczy Kaveacutehaz (east side of Danube)
One of the more unusual of Budapestrsquos kaveacutehazak is Gerloczyrsquos which also offers guests elegant accommodations The building dates from 1892 and is in the early Parisian-style to include bistro outdoor dining Gerloczy is also famous for its Hollywood links with rumors of Steven Spielberg shooting a scene for the movie ldquoMunichrdquo inside
the kaveacutehaz as a replacement for a Parisian bistro The interior both upstairs and downstairs is very reminiscent of European style and there is a real sense of nostalgia with the soft sounds of Louis Armstrong playing in the background There is both indoor and outdoor seat-ing and lively conversations are
readily available
Rather than have cakes or sweets I opted for a light brunch selecting the ham and cheese in a light and flakey puff pastry Adorning the pastry was mountain of sprigs and lettuce with a drizzle of oil and vin-aigrette dressing and I topped it off with loose leave Earl Grey tea in a
signature Gerloczy Cafeacute
The pastry oozed with several French cheeses another specialty of Gerloczyrsquos Parisian food repertoire which enhanced the flavor of the
smoked ham This was a fabulously rich and filling brunch
Gerloczy st 1 1052 Budapest Hungary
11
Tea Room Treasures of Budapest
ldquoA kaveacutehaz with a littlelsquo slice of Parisrsquordquo
15
Ham in puff pastry with fresh salad (top) Locals socializing in a classic setting (above)
Loose-leaf Earl Grey in a signature mug (right)
12
Winter 2014-2015
For the next edition of lsquoTea Room Treasuresrsquo we shake off those winter blues and welcome Spring with a tour of tea rooms in East Anglia Betty Bumbles Vintage Tea Rooms (St Neots) Woodford Mill Tea Room (Ringsted Northamptonshire) The Barn Tea Rooms (Burwash Manor Cambridge)
Spring 2015 Issue Preview
A special thanks to the staff and management of each of the kaveacutehazak highlighted Everyone was kind warm welcoming and accommodating Owners kindly provided historic details and allowed me to tour their establishments And despite my non-existent language skills locals happily provided me with their views on socialism democracy and poetry mdashand of course their favorite cakes and sweets
Special Thanks (Koumlszoumlnoumlm)
13
Tea Room Treasures of Budapest
CA Eccles WriterPhotographer
Member Royal Photographic Society
ArchaeologyHeritage Group
Travel Group
DocumentaryVideo Journalism
Channel 7 Film Production Company
Set Photographer
PADI-certified SCUBA Diver
Earth is home to billions of people with rich cultures traditions histories and perspectives Writer and photographer Cindy A Eccles (aka CA Eccles) seeks to capture these and other wonders of life through both word and sight Her goal bridge geographic and cultural divides to build trust and tolerance so that we can all appreciate and celebrate our uniqueness and
commonalities with mutual respect
Cindy has advanced degrees in archaeologyanthropology and international relations and a post-graduate degree in journalism She has published both fiction and non-fiction works including former Senator William Coxonrsquos papers (1930-1960) on his pursuits to understand and document petroglyphs Cindy also writes for the Heritage Daily magazine on issues
concerning risks to world heritage
Separately Cindy contributes to travel magazines and news outlets on a variety of travel-related topics You can also follow her travel blogmdashldquoON the Beaten Pathrdquomdashhighlighting travel experiences to lesser known gems within already popular tourist destinations One does not need to travel ldquooff the beaten pathrdquo
to have a memorable and unique experience
Cindy is also a professional photographer with interests in the landscape travel and heritage genres Images from her series on life in Sanliurfa Turkey was exhibited by the Los Angeles Pho-to Festival in April and Cindyrsquos images and articles have been published by the Royal Photographic Society heritage and trav-
el magazines
You can keep up with Cindyrsquos adventures and view her latest photo galleries by visiting wwwcaecclescom and she can be
reached by email at caecclescaecclescom
CindyEccles
CA Eccles
14
Winter 2014-2015
wwwpixotocomcaeccles
copy CA Eccles 2014 All rights reserved
Menu The list of cakes pastries and desserts is too exten-sive to list But classics include the buttery Boer crescent the Tirol Strudel (named for one of the founders) and classic round pastries made with potatoes cheese or cab-bage Or try a traditional pogacsa (Hungarian scone) if you prefer something a little less sweet A variety of teas coffees and cap-puccinos are also available
Hours______ Spring-Fall 9am-8pm
Winter 1000am-700pm
Access_____
Walkers can take a tram from the base of Chain Bridge to the Castle district Parking is limited and mostly for residents
Contact_____ Tel +36 1 375 5284 Website
wwwruszwurmhu
Ruszwurm Cafeacute (West side Castle District)
Just to the west of Matyas
Templom (St Matthewrsquos
Church) is one of Budapestrsquos
oldest and most traditional
coffee houses It opened in 1827
and was favored by Hungaryrsquos
Queen Elisabeth One owner
was jailed after the Revolution-
ary war (1848-1849) and today
the kaveacutehaz is run by the last
Hungarian confectionary family
Ruszwurmrsquos is very popular with
locals and tourists especially on
the weekends The seating area is
cozy so it is best to visit on a day
when you can leave your back-
pack behind
I highly recommend visiting
the website (be patient) before
your visit for a brief history of
Ruszwurm and a trip back in
time to the ldquogood ole daysrdquo
I decided to stock up on desserts ordering two house favorites Ruszwurm Kreme (3-4 inches of vanilla-almond cregraveme sandwiched between two flaky pastries and dusted with confectionersrsquo sugar) and Dobos cake (11 layers of alternating sponge and chocolate cream with a brittle toffee topping and chocolate sprinkles down the side) Rather than tea I opted for a double-cregraveme hot chocolate dusted with of
course more chocolate
Szentharomsag utca 7 1014 Budapest Hungary
9
Tea Room Treasures of Budapest
Dobos cakersquos 11 layers of heaven (top) A bowl of artistically styled oranges with cloves served as an organic air freshener (above) glass mug of double-cregraveme hot
chocolate (right)
10
Winter 2014-2015
ldquoThe Dobos cake is really 11 layers of heaven all on one platerdquo
Menu Central Cafeacutersquos menu is extensive with signature drinks Cafeacute Pepperino the Kapuciner and the Central Kaveacute with al-mond liquor caramelized nut and whipped cream For meals the menu in-cludes Magyaros reggeli (eggs sausage and onion with Hungarian cheese spread and garden vege-tables) and a variety of soups salads and plated meals such as black cod fillet and chicken with plum sauce Central rsquos own unique twist on the American classic cookie is the Central Oreo Keksz two dark chocolate bis-cuits with a white choco-late cream in the center
Hours______ Open daily from 800am
until 1100pm
Access______
Central Cafeacute is just south of the Ferenciek tere (Metro) line and is only 4 blocks east of the Dan-ube
Contact_____
Tel +36 1 266 2110
Website
wwwcentralkavehazhu
Central Cafeacute (east side near Elizabeth Bridge) One of the oldest ldquoVienna-stylerdquo cafeacute-restaurants in Budapest is the Central Cafeacute It opened in 1887 as the grandest of all of Budapestrsquos historic cafes Central Cafeacute was not only a place where poets converged It also served as the gathering place for staff and writers of Nyugat the literary periodical publishing then perceived revolutionary
articles Like other kaveacutehazak in Budapest the Central was closed by the communist government It was one of the first to reopen following the fall of communism in 1989 The vaulted ceilings are only out-matched by the leather and mahogany furniture but together they hold the history of
Budapestsrsquo tumultuous past
Central Cafeacute was unusually quiet during my mid-day stop according to the hostess Construction had blocked of two of the four streets on Centralrsquos corner The ambience was only enhanced as the big band era songs echoed in the high ceilings For this visit I opted for the classic Eszterhazy tortamdasha traditional Hungarian cake named after Prince Paul III Eszterhazy de Galanthamdashwhich is a multi-layered confection-er of buttercream sponge cake walnut paste and a white sugar glaze This delicious treat is easily identified by its spider-web like decoration on top To this nutty delight I added a pot of Earl Grey with honey
and lemon
Karolyi Mihaly utca 9 1053 Budapest Hungary
11
Tea Room Treasures of Budapest
ldquoYoung people old people and people with fami-
liesthey all come to Central to socializerdquo
13
Classic Eszterhazy torta (top) Cakes and pastries under glass (above)rsquo
Central Cafeacutersquos signature mugs (right)
12
Winter 2014-2015
Menu Gerloczy caters to any taste serving classic cui-sine for breakfast lunch and dinner From backed-fresh croissants and Viennese sausages to squid in rustic sauce or paprdelle with giant shrimp and duck liver Although less focused on desserts you can enjoy classics such as cregraveme brule or lemon tart or enjoy Asian lemongrass cake Gerloczyrsquos chefs are also very creative when it comes to choco-
late
Hours______
Open daily from 7am to 11pm but ldquotea timerdquo is
from 400pm to 600pm
Access_____
Gerloczy is located on its namesake ldquoGerloczy streetrdquo situated at the crossroads of Gerloczy and Vitkovics Mihaly streets Only taxis resi-dents and permit holders can enterpark in the square but there are two car parks nearby with discounts for guests
Contact_____ Tel +36 1 501 4000
Website wwwgerloczyhu
Gerloczy Kaveacutehaz (east side of Danube)
One of the more unusual of Budapestrsquos kaveacutehazak is Gerloczyrsquos which also offers guests elegant accommodations The building dates from 1892 and is in the early Parisian-style to include bistro outdoor dining Gerloczy is also famous for its Hollywood links with rumors of Steven Spielberg shooting a scene for the movie ldquoMunichrdquo inside
the kaveacutehaz as a replacement for a Parisian bistro The interior both upstairs and downstairs is very reminiscent of European style and there is a real sense of nostalgia with the soft sounds of Louis Armstrong playing in the background There is both indoor and outdoor seat-ing and lively conversations are
readily available
Rather than have cakes or sweets I opted for a light brunch selecting the ham and cheese in a light and flakey puff pastry Adorning the pastry was mountain of sprigs and lettuce with a drizzle of oil and vin-aigrette dressing and I topped it off with loose leave Earl Grey tea in a
signature Gerloczy Cafeacute
The pastry oozed with several French cheeses another specialty of Gerloczyrsquos Parisian food repertoire which enhanced the flavor of the
smoked ham This was a fabulously rich and filling brunch
Gerloczy st 1 1052 Budapest Hungary
11
Tea Room Treasures of Budapest
ldquoA kaveacutehaz with a littlelsquo slice of Parisrsquordquo
15
Ham in puff pastry with fresh salad (top) Locals socializing in a classic setting (above)
Loose-leaf Earl Grey in a signature mug (right)
12
Winter 2014-2015
For the next edition of lsquoTea Room Treasuresrsquo we shake off those winter blues and welcome Spring with a tour of tea rooms in East Anglia Betty Bumbles Vintage Tea Rooms (St Neots) Woodford Mill Tea Room (Ringsted Northamptonshire) The Barn Tea Rooms (Burwash Manor Cambridge)
Spring 2015 Issue Preview
A special thanks to the staff and management of each of the kaveacutehazak highlighted Everyone was kind warm welcoming and accommodating Owners kindly provided historic details and allowed me to tour their establishments And despite my non-existent language skills locals happily provided me with their views on socialism democracy and poetry mdashand of course their favorite cakes and sweets
Special Thanks (Koumlszoumlnoumlm)
13
Tea Room Treasures of Budapest
CA Eccles WriterPhotographer
Member Royal Photographic Society
ArchaeologyHeritage Group
Travel Group
DocumentaryVideo Journalism
Channel 7 Film Production Company
Set Photographer
PADI-certified SCUBA Diver
Earth is home to billions of people with rich cultures traditions histories and perspectives Writer and photographer Cindy A Eccles (aka CA Eccles) seeks to capture these and other wonders of life through both word and sight Her goal bridge geographic and cultural divides to build trust and tolerance so that we can all appreciate and celebrate our uniqueness and
commonalities with mutual respect
Cindy has advanced degrees in archaeologyanthropology and international relations and a post-graduate degree in journalism She has published both fiction and non-fiction works including former Senator William Coxonrsquos papers (1930-1960) on his pursuits to understand and document petroglyphs Cindy also writes for the Heritage Daily magazine on issues
concerning risks to world heritage
Separately Cindy contributes to travel magazines and news outlets on a variety of travel-related topics You can also follow her travel blogmdashldquoON the Beaten Pathrdquomdashhighlighting travel experiences to lesser known gems within already popular tourist destinations One does not need to travel ldquooff the beaten pathrdquo
to have a memorable and unique experience
Cindy is also a professional photographer with interests in the landscape travel and heritage genres Images from her series on life in Sanliurfa Turkey was exhibited by the Los Angeles Pho-to Festival in April and Cindyrsquos images and articles have been published by the Royal Photographic Society heritage and trav-
el magazines
You can keep up with Cindyrsquos adventures and view her latest photo galleries by visiting wwwcaecclescom and she can be
reached by email at caecclescaecclescom
CindyEccles
CA Eccles
14
Winter 2014-2015
wwwpixotocomcaeccles
copy CA Eccles 2014 All rights reserved
Dobos cakersquos 11 layers of heaven (top) A bowl of artistically styled oranges with cloves served as an organic air freshener (above) glass mug of double-cregraveme hot
chocolate (right)
10
Winter 2014-2015
ldquoThe Dobos cake is really 11 layers of heaven all on one platerdquo
Menu Central Cafeacutersquos menu is extensive with signature drinks Cafeacute Pepperino the Kapuciner and the Central Kaveacute with al-mond liquor caramelized nut and whipped cream For meals the menu in-cludes Magyaros reggeli (eggs sausage and onion with Hungarian cheese spread and garden vege-tables) and a variety of soups salads and plated meals such as black cod fillet and chicken with plum sauce Central rsquos own unique twist on the American classic cookie is the Central Oreo Keksz two dark chocolate bis-cuits with a white choco-late cream in the center
Hours______ Open daily from 800am
until 1100pm
Access______
Central Cafeacute is just south of the Ferenciek tere (Metro) line and is only 4 blocks east of the Dan-ube
Contact_____
Tel +36 1 266 2110
Website
wwwcentralkavehazhu
Central Cafeacute (east side near Elizabeth Bridge) One of the oldest ldquoVienna-stylerdquo cafeacute-restaurants in Budapest is the Central Cafeacute It opened in 1887 as the grandest of all of Budapestrsquos historic cafes Central Cafeacute was not only a place where poets converged It also served as the gathering place for staff and writers of Nyugat the literary periodical publishing then perceived revolutionary
articles Like other kaveacutehazak in Budapest the Central was closed by the communist government It was one of the first to reopen following the fall of communism in 1989 The vaulted ceilings are only out-matched by the leather and mahogany furniture but together they hold the history of
Budapestsrsquo tumultuous past
Central Cafeacute was unusually quiet during my mid-day stop according to the hostess Construction had blocked of two of the four streets on Centralrsquos corner The ambience was only enhanced as the big band era songs echoed in the high ceilings For this visit I opted for the classic Eszterhazy tortamdasha traditional Hungarian cake named after Prince Paul III Eszterhazy de Galanthamdashwhich is a multi-layered confection-er of buttercream sponge cake walnut paste and a white sugar glaze This delicious treat is easily identified by its spider-web like decoration on top To this nutty delight I added a pot of Earl Grey with honey
and lemon
Karolyi Mihaly utca 9 1053 Budapest Hungary
11
Tea Room Treasures of Budapest
ldquoYoung people old people and people with fami-
liesthey all come to Central to socializerdquo
13
Classic Eszterhazy torta (top) Cakes and pastries under glass (above)rsquo
Central Cafeacutersquos signature mugs (right)
12
Winter 2014-2015
Menu Gerloczy caters to any taste serving classic cui-sine for breakfast lunch and dinner From backed-fresh croissants and Viennese sausages to squid in rustic sauce or paprdelle with giant shrimp and duck liver Although less focused on desserts you can enjoy classics such as cregraveme brule or lemon tart or enjoy Asian lemongrass cake Gerloczyrsquos chefs are also very creative when it comes to choco-
late
Hours______
Open daily from 7am to 11pm but ldquotea timerdquo is
from 400pm to 600pm
Access_____
Gerloczy is located on its namesake ldquoGerloczy streetrdquo situated at the crossroads of Gerloczy and Vitkovics Mihaly streets Only taxis resi-dents and permit holders can enterpark in the square but there are two car parks nearby with discounts for guests
Contact_____ Tel +36 1 501 4000
Website wwwgerloczyhu
Gerloczy Kaveacutehaz (east side of Danube)
One of the more unusual of Budapestrsquos kaveacutehazak is Gerloczyrsquos which also offers guests elegant accommodations The building dates from 1892 and is in the early Parisian-style to include bistro outdoor dining Gerloczy is also famous for its Hollywood links with rumors of Steven Spielberg shooting a scene for the movie ldquoMunichrdquo inside
the kaveacutehaz as a replacement for a Parisian bistro The interior both upstairs and downstairs is very reminiscent of European style and there is a real sense of nostalgia with the soft sounds of Louis Armstrong playing in the background There is both indoor and outdoor seat-ing and lively conversations are
readily available
Rather than have cakes or sweets I opted for a light brunch selecting the ham and cheese in a light and flakey puff pastry Adorning the pastry was mountain of sprigs and lettuce with a drizzle of oil and vin-aigrette dressing and I topped it off with loose leave Earl Grey tea in a
signature Gerloczy Cafeacute
The pastry oozed with several French cheeses another specialty of Gerloczyrsquos Parisian food repertoire which enhanced the flavor of the
smoked ham This was a fabulously rich and filling brunch
Gerloczy st 1 1052 Budapest Hungary
11
Tea Room Treasures of Budapest
ldquoA kaveacutehaz with a littlelsquo slice of Parisrsquordquo
15
Ham in puff pastry with fresh salad (top) Locals socializing in a classic setting (above)
Loose-leaf Earl Grey in a signature mug (right)
12
Winter 2014-2015
For the next edition of lsquoTea Room Treasuresrsquo we shake off those winter blues and welcome Spring with a tour of tea rooms in East Anglia Betty Bumbles Vintage Tea Rooms (St Neots) Woodford Mill Tea Room (Ringsted Northamptonshire) The Barn Tea Rooms (Burwash Manor Cambridge)
Spring 2015 Issue Preview
A special thanks to the staff and management of each of the kaveacutehazak highlighted Everyone was kind warm welcoming and accommodating Owners kindly provided historic details and allowed me to tour their establishments And despite my non-existent language skills locals happily provided me with their views on socialism democracy and poetry mdashand of course their favorite cakes and sweets
Special Thanks (Koumlszoumlnoumlm)
13
Tea Room Treasures of Budapest
CA Eccles WriterPhotographer
Member Royal Photographic Society
ArchaeologyHeritage Group
Travel Group
DocumentaryVideo Journalism
Channel 7 Film Production Company
Set Photographer
PADI-certified SCUBA Diver
Earth is home to billions of people with rich cultures traditions histories and perspectives Writer and photographer Cindy A Eccles (aka CA Eccles) seeks to capture these and other wonders of life through both word and sight Her goal bridge geographic and cultural divides to build trust and tolerance so that we can all appreciate and celebrate our uniqueness and
commonalities with mutual respect
Cindy has advanced degrees in archaeologyanthropology and international relations and a post-graduate degree in journalism She has published both fiction and non-fiction works including former Senator William Coxonrsquos papers (1930-1960) on his pursuits to understand and document petroglyphs Cindy also writes for the Heritage Daily magazine on issues
concerning risks to world heritage
Separately Cindy contributes to travel magazines and news outlets on a variety of travel-related topics You can also follow her travel blogmdashldquoON the Beaten Pathrdquomdashhighlighting travel experiences to lesser known gems within already popular tourist destinations One does not need to travel ldquooff the beaten pathrdquo
to have a memorable and unique experience
Cindy is also a professional photographer with interests in the landscape travel and heritage genres Images from her series on life in Sanliurfa Turkey was exhibited by the Los Angeles Pho-to Festival in April and Cindyrsquos images and articles have been published by the Royal Photographic Society heritage and trav-
el magazines
You can keep up with Cindyrsquos adventures and view her latest photo galleries by visiting wwwcaecclescom and she can be
reached by email at caecclescaecclescom
CindyEccles
CA Eccles
14
Winter 2014-2015
wwwpixotocomcaeccles
copy CA Eccles 2014 All rights reserved
Menu Central Cafeacutersquos menu is extensive with signature drinks Cafeacute Pepperino the Kapuciner and the Central Kaveacute with al-mond liquor caramelized nut and whipped cream For meals the menu in-cludes Magyaros reggeli (eggs sausage and onion with Hungarian cheese spread and garden vege-tables) and a variety of soups salads and plated meals such as black cod fillet and chicken with plum sauce Central rsquos own unique twist on the American classic cookie is the Central Oreo Keksz two dark chocolate bis-cuits with a white choco-late cream in the center
Hours______ Open daily from 800am
until 1100pm
Access______
Central Cafeacute is just south of the Ferenciek tere (Metro) line and is only 4 blocks east of the Dan-ube
Contact_____
Tel +36 1 266 2110
Website
wwwcentralkavehazhu
Central Cafeacute (east side near Elizabeth Bridge) One of the oldest ldquoVienna-stylerdquo cafeacute-restaurants in Budapest is the Central Cafeacute It opened in 1887 as the grandest of all of Budapestrsquos historic cafes Central Cafeacute was not only a place where poets converged It also served as the gathering place for staff and writers of Nyugat the literary periodical publishing then perceived revolutionary
articles Like other kaveacutehazak in Budapest the Central was closed by the communist government It was one of the first to reopen following the fall of communism in 1989 The vaulted ceilings are only out-matched by the leather and mahogany furniture but together they hold the history of
Budapestsrsquo tumultuous past
Central Cafeacute was unusually quiet during my mid-day stop according to the hostess Construction had blocked of two of the four streets on Centralrsquos corner The ambience was only enhanced as the big band era songs echoed in the high ceilings For this visit I opted for the classic Eszterhazy tortamdasha traditional Hungarian cake named after Prince Paul III Eszterhazy de Galanthamdashwhich is a multi-layered confection-er of buttercream sponge cake walnut paste and a white sugar glaze This delicious treat is easily identified by its spider-web like decoration on top To this nutty delight I added a pot of Earl Grey with honey
and lemon
Karolyi Mihaly utca 9 1053 Budapest Hungary
11
Tea Room Treasures of Budapest
ldquoYoung people old people and people with fami-
liesthey all come to Central to socializerdquo
13
Classic Eszterhazy torta (top) Cakes and pastries under glass (above)rsquo
Central Cafeacutersquos signature mugs (right)
12
Winter 2014-2015
Menu Gerloczy caters to any taste serving classic cui-sine for breakfast lunch and dinner From backed-fresh croissants and Viennese sausages to squid in rustic sauce or paprdelle with giant shrimp and duck liver Although less focused on desserts you can enjoy classics such as cregraveme brule or lemon tart or enjoy Asian lemongrass cake Gerloczyrsquos chefs are also very creative when it comes to choco-
late
Hours______
Open daily from 7am to 11pm but ldquotea timerdquo is
from 400pm to 600pm
Access_____
Gerloczy is located on its namesake ldquoGerloczy streetrdquo situated at the crossroads of Gerloczy and Vitkovics Mihaly streets Only taxis resi-dents and permit holders can enterpark in the square but there are two car parks nearby with discounts for guests
Contact_____ Tel +36 1 501 4000
Website wwwgerloczyhu
Gerloczy Kaveacutehaz (east side of Danube)
One of the more unusual of Budapestrsquos kaveacutehazak is Gerloczyrsquos which also offers guests elegant accommodations The building dates from 1892 and is in the early Parisian-style to include bistro outdoor dining Gerloczy is also famous for its Hollywood links with rumors of Steven Spielberg shooting a scene for the movie ldquoMunichrdquo inside
the kaveacutehaz as a replacement for a Parisian bistro The interior both upstairs and downstairs is very reminiscent of European style and there is a real sense of nostalgia with the soft sounds of Louis Armstrong playing in the background There is both indoor and outdoor seat-ing and lively conversations are
readily available
Rather than have cakes or sweets I opted for a light brunch selecting the ham and cheese in a light and flakey puff pastry Adorning the pastry was mountain of sprigs and lettuce with a drizzle of oil and vin-aigrette dressing and I topped it off with loose leave Earl Grey tea in a
signature Gerloczy Cafeacute
The pastry oozed with several French cheeses another specialty of Gerloczyrsquos Parisian food repertoire which enhanced the flavor of the
smoked ham This was a fabulously rich and filling brunch
Gerloczy st 1 1052 Budapest Hungary
11
Tea Room Treasures of Budapest
ldquoA kaveacutehaz with a littlelsquo slice of Parisrsquordquo
15
Ham in puff pastry with fresh salad (top) Locals socializing in a classic setting (above)
Loose-leaf Earl Grey in a signature mug (right)
12
Winter 2014-2015
For the next edition of lsquoTea Room Treasuresrsquo we shake off those winter blues and welcome Spring with a tour of tea rooms in East Anglia Betty Bumbles Vintage Tea Rooms (St Neots) Woodford Mill Tea Room (Ringsted Northamptonshire) The Barn Tea Rooms (Burwash Manor Cambridge)
Spring 2015 Issue Preview
A special thanks to the staff and management of each of the kaveacutehazak highlighted Everyone was kind warm welcoming and accommodating Owners kindly provided historic details and allowed me to tour their establishments And despite my non-existent language skills locals happily provided me with their views on socialism democracy and poetry mdashand of course their favorite cakes and sweets
Special Thanks (Koumlszoumlnoumlm)
13
Tea Room Treasures of Budapest
CA Eccles WriterPhotographer
Member Royal Photographic Society
ArchaeologyHeritage Group
Travel Group
DocumentaryVideo Journalism
Channel 7 Film Production Company
Set Photographer
PADI-certified SCUBA Diver
Earth is home to billions of people with rich cultures traditions histories and perspectives Writer and photographer Cindy A Eccles (aka CA Eccles) seeks to capture these and other wonders of life through both word and sight Her goal bridge geographic and cultural divides to build trust and tolerance so that we can all appreciate and celebrate our uniqueness and
commonalities with mutual respect
Cindy has advanced degrees in archaeologyanthropology and international relations and a post-graduate degree in journalism She has published both fiction and non-fiction works including former Senator William Coxonrsquos papers (1930-1960) on his pursuits to understand and document petroglyphs Cindy also writes for the Heritage Daily magazine on issues
concerning risks to world heritage
Separately Cindy contributes to travel magazines and news outlets on a variety of travel-related topics You can also follow her travel blogmdashldquoON the Beaten Pathrdquomdashhighlighting travel experiences to lesser known gems within already popular tourist destinations One does not need to travel ldquooff the beaten pathrdquo
to have a memorable and unique experience
Cindy is also a professional photographer with interests in the landscape travel and heritage genres Images from her series on life in Sanliurfa Turkey was exhibited by the Los Angeles Pho-to Festival in April and Cindyrsquos images and articles have been published by the Royal Photographic Society heritage and trav-
el magazines
You can keep up with Cindyrsquos adventures and view her latest photo galleries by visiting wwwcaecclescom and she can be
reached by email at caecclescaecclescom
CindyEccles
CA Eccles
14
Winter 2014-2015
wwwpixotocomcaeccles
copy CA Eccles 2014 All rights reserved
ldquoYoung people old people and people with fami-
liesthey all come to Central to socializerdquo
13
Classic Eszterhazy torta (top) Cakes and pastries under glass (above)rsquo
Central Cafeacutersquos signature mugs (right)
12
Winter 2014-2015
Menu Gerloczy caters to any taste serving classic cui-sine for breakfast lunch and dinner From backed-fresh croissants and Viennese sausages to squid in rustic sauce or paprdelle with giant shrimp and duck liver Although less focused on desserts you can enjoy classics such as cregraveme brule or lemon tart or enjoy Asian lemongrass cake Gerloczyrsquos chefs are also very creative when it comes to choco-
late
Hours______
Open daily from 7am to 11pm but ldquotea timerdquo is
from 400pm to 600pm
Access_____
Gerloczy is located on its namesake ldquoGerloczy streetrdquo situated at the crossroads of Gerloczy and Vitkovics Mihaly streets Only taxis resi-dents and permit holders can enterpark in the square but there are two car parks nearby with discounts for guests
Contact_____ Tel +36 1 501 4000
Website wwwgerloczyhu
Gerloczy Kaveacutehaz (east side of Danube)
One of the more unusual of Budapestrsquos kaveacutehazak is Gerloczyrsquos which also offers guests elegant accommodations The building dates from 1892 and is in the early Parisian-style to include bistro outdoor dining Gerloczy is also famous for its Hollywood links with rumors of Steven Spielberg shooting a scene for the movie ldquoMunichrdquo inside
the kaveacutehaz as a replacement for a Parisian bistro The interior both upstairs and downstairs is very reminiscent of European style and there is a real sense of nostalgia with the soft sounds of Louis Armstrong playing in the background There is both indoor and outdoor seat-ing and lively conversations are
readily available
Rather than have cakes or sweets I opted for a light brunch selecting the ham and cheese in a light and flakey puff pastry Adorning the pastry was mountain of sprigs and lettuce with a drizzle of oil and vin-aigrette dressing and I topped it off with loose leave Earl Grey tea in a
signature Gerloczy Cafeacute
The pastry oozed with several French cheeses another specialty of Gerloczyrsquos Parisian food repertoire which enhanced the flavor of the
smoked ham This was a fabulously rich and filling brunch
Gerloczy st 1 1052 Budapest Hungary
11
Tea Room Treasures of Budapest
ldquoA kaveacutehaz with a littlelsquo slice of Parisrsquordquo
15
Ham in puff pastry with fresh salad (top) Locals socializing in a classic setting (above)
Loose-leaf Earl Grey in a signature mug (right)
12
Winter 2014-2015
For the next edition of lsquoTea Room Treasuresrsquo we shake off those winter blues and welcome Spring with a tour of tea rooms in East Anglia Betty Bumbles Vintage Tea Rooms (St Neots) Woodford Mill Tea Room (Ringsted Northamptonshire) The Barn Tea Rooms (Burwash Manor Cambridge)
Spring 2015 Issue Preview
A special thanks to the staff and management of each of the kaveacutehazak highlighted Everyone was kind warm welcoming and accommodating Owners kindly provided historic details and allowed me to tour their establishments And despite my non-existent language skills locals happily provided me with their views on socialism democracy and poetry mdashand of course their favorite cakes and sweets
Special Thanks (Koumlszoumlnoumlm)
13
Tea Room Treasures of Budapest
CA Eccles WriterPhotographer
Member Royal Photographic Society
ArchaeologyHeritage Group
Travel Group
DocumentaryVideo Journalism
Channel 7 Film Production Company
Set Photographer
PADI-certified SCUBA Diver
Earth is home to billions of people with rich cultures traditions histories and perspectives Writer and photographer Cindy A Eccles (aka CA Eccles) seeks to capture these and other wonders of life through both word and sight Her goal bridge geographic and cultural divides to build trust and tolerance so that we can all appreciate and celebrate our uniqueness and
commonalities with mutual respect
Cindy has advanced degrees in archaeologyanthropology and international relations and a post-graduate degree in journalism She has published both fiction and non-fiction works including former Senator William Coxonrsquos papers (1930-1960) on his pursuits to understand and document petroglyphs Cindy also writes for the Heritage Daily magazine on issues
concerning risks to world heritage
Separately Cindy contributes to travel magazines and news outlets on a variety of travel-related topics You can also follow her travel blogmdashldquoON the Beaten Pathrdquomdashhighlighting travel experiences to lesser known gems within already popular tourist destinations One does not need to travel ldquooff the beaten pathrdquo
to have a memorable and unique experience
Cindy is also a professional photographer with interests in the landscape travel and heritage genres Images from her series on life in Sanliurfa Turkey was exhibited by the Los Angeles Pho-to Festival in April and Cindyrsquos images and articles have been published by the Royal Photographic Society heritage and trav-
el magazines
You can keep up with Cindyrsquos adventures and view her latest photo galleries by visiting wwwcaecclescom and she can be
reached by email at caecclescaecclescom
CindyEccles
CA Eccles
14
Winter 2014-2015
wwwpixotocomcaeccles
copy CA Eccles 2014 All rights reserved
Menu Gerloczy caters to any taste serving classic cui-sine for breakfast lunch and dinner From backed-fresh croissants and Viennese sausages to squid in rustic sauce or paprdelle with giant shrimp and duck liver Although less focused on desserts you can enjoy classics such as cregraveme brule or lemon tart or enjoy Asian lemongrass cake Gerloczyrsquos chefs are also very creative when it comes to choco-
late
Hours______
Open daily from 7am to 11pm but ldquotea timerdquo is
from 400pm to 600pm
Access_____
Gerloczy is located on its namesake ldquoGerloczy streetrdquo situated at the crossroads of Gerloczy and Vitkovics Mihaly streets Only taxis resi-dents and permit holders can enterpark in the square but there are two car parks nearby with discounts for guests
Contact_____ Tel +36 1 501 4000
Website wwwgerloczyhu
Gerloczy Kaveacutehaz (east side of Danube)
One of the more unusual of Budapestrsquos kaveacutehazak is Gerloczyrsquos which also offers guests elegant accommodations The building dates from 1892 and is in the early Parisian-style to include bistro outdoor dining Gerloczy is also famous for its Hollywood links with rumors of Steven Spielberg shooting a scene for the movie ldquoMunichrdquo inside
the kaveacutehaz as a replacement for a Parisian bistro The interior both upstairs and downstairs is very reminiscent of European style and there is a real sense of nostalgia with the soft sounds of Louis Armstrong playing in the background There is both indoor and outdoor seat-ing and lively conversations are
readily available
Rather than have cakes or sweets I opted for a light brunch selecting the ham and cheese in a light and flakey puff pastry Adorning the pastry was mountain of sprigs and lettuce with a drizzle of oil and vin-aigrette dressing and I topped it off with loose leave Earl Grey tea in a
signature Gerloczy Cafeacute
The pastry oozed with several French cheeses another specialty of Gerloczyrsquos Parisian food repertoire which enhanced the flavor of the
smoked ham This was a fabulously rich and filling brunch
Gerloczy st 1 1052 Budapest Hungary
11
Tea Room Treasures of Budapest
ldquoA kaveacutehaz with a littlelsquo slice of Parisrsquordquo
15
Ham in puff pastry with fresh salad (top) Locals socializing in a classic setting (above)
Loose-leaf Earl Grey in a signature mug (right)
12
Winter 2014-2015
For the next edition of lsquoTea Room Treasuresrsquo we shake off those winter blues and welcome Spring with a tour of tea rooms in East Anglia Betty Bumbles Vintage Tea Rooms (St Neots) Woodford Mill Tea Room (Ringsted Northamptonshire) The Barn Tea Rooms (Burwash Manor Cambridge)
Spring 2015 Issue Preview
A special thanks to the staff and management of each of the kaveacutehazak highlighted Everyone was kind warm welcoming and accommodating Owners kindly provided historic details and allowed me to tour their establishments And despite my non-existent language skills locals happily provided me with their views on socialism democracy and poetry mdashand of course their favorite cakes and sweets
Special Thanks (Koumlszoumlnoumlm)
13
Tea Room Treasures of Budapest
CA Eccles WriterPhotographer
Member Royal Photographic Society
ArchaeologyHeritage Group
Travel Group
DocumentaryVideo Journalism
Channel 7 Film Production Company
Set Photographer
PADI-certified SCUBA Diver
Earth is home to billions of people with rich cultures traditions histories and perspectives Writer and photographer Cindy A Eccles (aka CA Eccles) seeks to capture these and other wonders of life through both word and sight Her goal bridge geographic and cultural divides to build trust and tolerance so that we can all appreciate and celebrate our uniqueness and
commonalities with mutual respect
Cindy has advanced degrees in archaeologyanthropology and international relations and a post-graduate degree in journalism She has published both fiction and non-fiction works including former Senator William Coxonrsquos papers (1930-1960) on his pursuits to understand and document petroglyphs Cindy also writes for the Heritage Daily magazine on issues
concerning risks to world heritage
Separately Cindy contributes to travel magazines and news outlets on a variety of travel-related topics You can also follow her travel blogmdashldquoON the Beaten Pathrdquomdashhighlighting travel experiences to lesser known gems within already popular tourist destinations One does not need to travel ldquooff the beaten pathrdquo
to have a memorable and unique experience
Cindy is also a professional photographer with interests in the landscape travel and heritage genres Images from her series on life in Sanliurfa Turkey was exhibited by the Los Angeles Pho-to Festival in April and Cindyrsquos images and articles have been published by the Royal Photographic Society heritage and trav-
el magazines
You can keep up with Cindyrsquos adventures and view her latest photo galleries by visiting wwwcaecclescom and she can be
reached by email at caecclescaecclescom
CindyEccles
CA Eccles
14
Winter 2014-2015
wwwpixotocomcaeccles
copy CA Eccles 2014 All rights reserved
ldquoA kaveacutehaz with a littlelsquo slice of Parisrsquordquo
15
Ham in puff pastry with fresh salad (top) Locals socializing in a classic setting (above)
Loose-leaf Earl Grey in a signature mug (right)
12
Winter 2014-2015
For the next edition of lsquoTea Room Treasuresrsquo we shake off those winter blues and welcome Spring with a tour of tea rooms in East Anglia Betty Bumbles Vintage Tea Rooms (St Neots) Woodford Mill Tea Room (Ringsted Northamptonshire) The Barn Tea Rooms (Burwash Manor Cambridge)
Spring 2015 Issue Preview
A special thanks to the staff and management of each of the kaveacutehazak highlighted Everyone was kind warm welcoming and accommodating Owners kindly provided historic details and allowed me to tour their establishments And despite my non-existent language skills locals happily provided me with their views on socialism democracy and poetry mdashand of course their favorite cakes and sweets
Special Thanks (Koumlszoumlnoumlm)
13
Tea Room Treasures of Budapest
CA Eccles WriterPhotographer
Member Royal Photographic Society
ArchaeologyHeritage Group
Travel Group
DocumentaryVideo Journalism
Channel 7 Film Production Company
Set Photographer
PADI-certified SCUBA Diver
Earth is home to billions of people with rich cultures traditions histories and perspectives Writer and photographer Cindy A Eccles (aka CA Eccles) seeks to capture these and other wonders of life through both word and sight Her goal bridge geographic and cultural divides to build trust and tolerance so that we can all appreciate and celebrate our uniqueness and
commonalities with mutual respect
Cindy has advanced degrees in archaeologyanthropology and international relations and a post-graduate degree in journalism She has published both fiction and non-fiction works including former Senator William Coxonrsquos papers (1930-1960) on his pursuits to understand and document petroglyphs Cindy also writes for the Heritage Daily magazine on issues
concerning risks to world heritage
Separately Cindy contributes to travel magazines and news outlets on a variety of travel-related topics You can also follow her travel blogmdashldquoON the Beaten Pathrdquomdashhighlighting travel experiences to lesser known gems within already popular tourist destinations One does not need to travel ldquooff the beaten pathrdquo
to have a memorable and unique experience
Cindy is also a professional photographer with interests in the landscape travel and heritage genres Images from her series on life in Sanliurfa Turkey was exhibited by the Los Angeles Pho-to Festival in April and Cindyrsquos images and articles have been published by the Royal Photographic Society heritage and trav-
el magazines
You can keep up with Cindyrsquos adventures and view her latest photo galleries by visiting wwwcaecclescom and she can be
reached by email at caecclescaecclescom
CindyEccles
CA Eccles
14
Winter 2014-2015
wwwpixotocomcaeccles
copy CA Eccles 2014 All rights reserved
For the next edition of lsquoTea Room Treasuresrsquo we shake off those winter blues and welcome Spring with a tour of tea rooms in East Anglia Betty Bumbles Vintage Tea Rooms (St Neots) Woodford Mill Tea Room (Ringsted Northamptonshire) The Barn Tea Rooms (Burwash Manor Cambridge)
Spring 2015 Issue Preview
A special thanks to the staff and management of each of the kaveacutehazak highlighted Everyone was kind warm welcoming and accommodating Owners kindly provided historic details and allowed me to tour their establishments And despite my non-existent language skills locals happily provided me with their views on socialism democracy and poetry mdashand of course their favorite cakes and sweets
Special Thanks (Koumlszoumlnoumlm)
13
Tea Room Treasures of Budapest
CA Eccles WriterPhotographer
Member Royal Photographic Society
ArchaeologyHeritage Group
Travel Group
DocumentaryVideo Journalism
Channel 7 Film Production Company
Set Photographer
PADI-certified SCUBA Diver
Earth is home to billions of people with rich cultures traditions histories and perspectives Writer and photographer Cindy A Eccles (aka CA Eccles) seeks to capture these and other wonders of life through both word and sight Her goal bridge geographic and cultural divides to build trust and tolerance so that we can all appreciate and celebrate our uniqueness and
commonalities with mutual respect
Cindy has advanced degrees in archaeologyanthropology and international relations and a post-graduate degree in journalism She has published both fiction and non-fiction works including former Senator William Coxonrsquos papers (1930-1960) on his pursuits to understand and document petroglyphs Cindy also writes for the Heritage Daily magazine on issues
concerning risks to world heritage
Separately Cindy contributes to travel magazines and news outlets on a variety of travel-related topics You can also follow her travel blogmdashldquoON the Beaten Pathrdquomdashhighlighting travel experiences to lesser known gems within already popular tourist destinations One does not need to travel ldquooff the beaten pathrdquo
to have a memorable and unique experience
Cindy is also a professional photographer with interests in the landscape travel and heritage genres Images from her series on life in Sanliurfa Turkey was exhibited by the Los Angeles Pho-to Festival in April and Cindyrsquos images and articles have been published by the Royal Photographic Society heritage and trav-
el magazines
You can keep up with Cindyrsquos adventures and view her latest photo galleries by visiting wwwcaecclescom and she can be
reached by email at caecclescaecclescom
CindyEccles
CA Eccles
14
Winter 2014-2015
wwwpixotocomcaeccles
copy CA Eccles 2014 All rights reserved
CA Eccles WriterPhotographer
Member Royal Photographic Society
ArchaeologyHeritage Group
Travel Group
DocumentaryVideo Journalism
Channel 7 Film Production Company
Set Photographer
PADI-certified SCUBA Diver
Earth is home to billions of people with rich cultures traditions histories and perspectives Writer and photographer Cindy A Eccles (aka CA Eccles) seeks to capture these and other wonders of life through both word and sight Her goal bridge geographic and cultural divides to build trust and tolerance so that we can all appreciate and celebrate our uniqueness and
commonalities with mutual respect
Cindy has advanced degrees in archaeologyanthropology and international relations and a post-graduate degree in journalism She has published both fiction and non-fiction works including former Senator William Coxonrsquos papers (1930-1960) on his pursuits to understand and document petroglyphs Cindy also writes for the Heritage Daily magazine on issues
concerning risks to world heritage
Separately Cindy contributes to travel magazines and news outlets on a variety of travel-related topics You can also follow her travel blogmdashldquoON the Beaten Pathrdquomdashhighlighting travel experiences to lesser known gems within already popular tourist destinations One does not need to travel ldquooff the beaten pathrdquo
to have a memorable and unique experience
Cindy is also a professional photographer with interests in the landscape travel and heritage genres Images from her series on life in Sanliurfa Turkey was exhibited by the Los Angeles Pho-to Festival in April and Cindyrsquos images and articles have been published by the Royal Photographic Society heritage and trav-
el magazines
You can keep up with Cindyrsquos adventures and view her latest photo galleries by visiting wwwcaecclescom and she can be
reached by email at caecclescaecclescom
CindyEccles
CA Eccles
14
Winter 2014-2015
wwwpixotocomcaeccles
copy CA Eccles 2014 All rights reserved
copy CA Eccles 2014 All rights reserved
