Aerial view – Village of Biertan #

Aerial view – Fortified Church of Biertan #

Tarnaveler Valley The edifices on Tarnavelor Valley constitute an extremely important segment of the fortified churches of

Transylvania as the area has always been densely populated. In chronological order, the most distinguished monuments on Tatnavelor Valley are those of Axente, Sever, Copse Mare, Biertan, and Saschiz. Considerably

imposing and famous is the fortified church of Biertan, which became bishopric headquarters of the Evangelical Church after the first half of the 16th century. In this capacity, it benefited from enhanced attention as to the construction of fortifications, and the development of the church itself. From the vantage of planes, the most exclusive case is that of Axente Sever, where the massive tower over the nave seems to indicate the

existence, prior to the current church, of a tower-dwelling, and very possibly of a small-sized chapel.

The painted polyptych altars, many of them dating to the late 15th and early 16th century, emerge as another particularity of the monuments on Tarnavelor Valley. Mention should also be made here of the murals in the

choir of the Malancrav church and of those of Biertan.

All these traits turn the fortified churches on Tarnavelor Valley into an array of monuments with original characteristics among all other constructions of the kind.

Biertan - Introduction Fortified church

UNESCO-World Cultural Heritage Background: A bronze plaque with a Latin inscription: EG0 ZENOVIUS VOTUM POSUI, a chrismon (a monogram of the first two letters of the word Christ in Greek, XP) in a bronze circle and fragments of bronze plate and chains, all probably part of a pendant-lamp from AD 4th century, were discovered within the radius of the commune. This find went down in literature as the Biertan Donarium.

Above the commune rises the Citadel (Burg) of big type, from the Middle Ages, and surrounded, today, by stonewalls bound by mortar and an outer earth mound. The citadel is triangular in shape, and the mound has a stone core. The fortification was used as a

refuge, and lies about 400 meters east of the commune of Biertan. At first sight, it could be dated to the 13th – 14th century.

The now Lutheran church is mentioned for the first time in a papal indulgence from 1402 as being dedicated to the Saint Mary. Most likely, it was a Gothic basilica of which only two keystones and fragments of vault ribbing have been preserved. The current cult edifice can be related stylistically to the late Transylvanian Gothic, and it was erected in the late 15th and early 16th century, as proven by the coats-of arms that decorate the western portal and belong to Vladislav II and John Zapolya. The works continued

Fortified Church of Biertan #

throughout the first quarter of the 16th century as it can be inferred from several documents speaking of payments to a stonecutter from Cluj for having wrought window frames and transported them to Biertan, and also payments for vault ribbing, and for the window workers of Sibiu and Brasov. The chief builder of the church is mentioned in an inscription (venerabilis domini baccalauri Johannis), and his monogram (I.0.) is featured on the frame of the sacristy door, alongside the year 1515. The constructor's funerary slab is preserved in the mausoleum tower, and carries the same initials, I.O. and the year 1520. From the moment the construction works were finalized, the church underwent few alterations, like, for instance, the removal of the wall walk in the choir supported by arches, in 1803. Numerous repair jobs are mentioned over the years.

In 1805, the funerary slabs of Transylvania’s Lutheran bishops were taken from the church, and, in 1913, they were laid in the mausoleum tower. The church was further restored between 1938 and 1943, then 1980 and 1991. Numerous cultural assets and medieval artifacts are preserved here.

The polyptych altar, with 28 painted panels, dates to 1483 - 1515. The sacristy door, a masterpiece of medieval technique, boasts a lock that simultaneously blocks 13 bolts that slid unto four directions in the stone frame. The stone pulpit is the creation of stonecutter Ulrich of Brasov, and features motifs from late gothic to early Renaissance. Three medieval bells have been preserved. The big one dates to the beginning of the 15th century and is inscribed with gothic small letters (o rex glorie veni cum pace). The middle bell could date from the 14th century, and bears the same inscription in capital letters, while the small bell features only an inscribed year, 1738. A bell from the 14th century was requisitioned during the First World

War. The clock bell in the gate strikes the hour, and is marked with the words “Jesus in aeternis rex judeorum 1508".

The stronghold girdles the cult edifices with two tiers of walls. On the southern, western, and eastern sides rises a third curtain. Four towers, and a bastion that was used as a prison, fortify the interior belt, erected in the 15th century. The southern tower, called the Catholic Tower, also served as a graveyard chapel, and after the Reformation, as chapel for the members of the village community who did not embrace Lutheranism. This explains why the murals dating to the 15th century did not succumb to the iconoclastic Reformation and have been preserved to this day. The northeastern tower is called the Mausoleum Tower because of the funerary slabs taken from the church and deposited here in 1913. The northwestern tower is the Clock Tower, and the western tower is also a gate tower. The initial ensemble underwent considerable alterations in the 16th to the 19th centuries. Here seemed to have existed a school, too, as a teacher is mentioned in 1502.

Another interesting aspect is the fortification of the Biertan cemetery, in 1468, a quarter of the inhabitants being exempted from army duty with a view to guarding it. Owing to its location and the strength of its fortification, and also perhaps to the existence of the fortified graveyard, Biertan came to be selected as necropolis and headquarters of the Evangelic bishops between 1572 and 1867. Today, one of the towers shelters their funerary slabs.

BIERTAN - short history The place called Biertan is one of the first rural settlements of Transylvania. The first documentary attestation was recorded in 1283. For nearly 300 years (1572-1867) it was here that the Lutheran Protestant Episcopate of Transylvania had its headquarters. The Saxons as we know them today started populating Transylvania in the 12th to the 14th centuries, coming from the cast and west of the Rhine. They were given rights in Transylvania

Fortified Church of Biertan ##

Fortified Church Tower

Fortified Church Tower

and were free to practice the crafts they knew. The first Saxons who came to Biertan were peasants, but they all mastered crafts before coming to Transylvania. The men were very good with handling the axe, the saw and they cut stone and made pottery. They worked the land, cultivated vine, fruit trees and reared animals. The women could spin wool, weave, tailor and were good cooks, being able to make a meal out of barely nothing. The Saxons were hard workers, disciplined and well organized.

The Church was built on the site of a catholic basilica between the years 1490-1524. It remained Catholic until the Reformation, after which it became a Protestant church. It is an extensive gothic building, having also renaissance and baroque elements (the pulpit, the northern gate, the door of the vestry). This church is one of the biggest rural churches in Transylvania. Since 1993, it has been on the patrimony list of UNESCO.

Starting in 1400, there were more and more invasions by Turkish and Tartar tribes. They stole and destroyed everything in their way. In order to protect themselves from these invasions, the Saxons started to fortify their churches by building fortified walls and towers. Thus, they built three walls around the Biertan church, with three interior courtyards. These walls of the fortress

were built approximately in the same period when the church was built (15th - 16th centuries).

On the walls, one can see at present the traces of the battles that were fought against various barbarian peoples. The towers of the fortress are placed all around the fortress so that the observers could strike the alarm in case of invasions. The Tower with the Clock, the original mechanism was made in the 16th century and it was replaced by the one that is at present in 1883.

The Catholic Tower served as a worship place for those who, after the Reformation, did not convert to the Protestant religion. The fresco within the lower lasts from 15th century.

The Commune Hall was initially a gate-tower that could block the entrance to the second inner yard. The Mausoleum, inside it there are the tombstones and the commemorative plates of priests and bishops. The Belfry made of wood had, and still has, a great importance.

The hells had a very big resonance and each sound had a special meaning. Thus, they could announce an invasion, a wedding, a funeral, a foe, the religious mass, the meal break for those working in the fields, a popular gathering, etc.

Fortified Church Tower

Fortified Church Pulpit

Fortified Church Lid of the Pulpit

Fortified Church Priests’ Pews

‘Donarium’

The Bacon-Tower was also used for the storage of the traditional Saxon bacon. Because it was a well-aired and cool place, one could very well store bacon there. Each family would bring their own for storing, and there was a strict record kept of how much was brought in and how much was taken out for personal use. The Exterior Gate-Tower also had an entrance for all the carts with food, various materials and guns.

This disk-shaped 'donarium' was discovered in 1775 in a forest 5 km from Biertan. It is a fragment from a chandelier and it has lasted since 4th century A.D. It has a Latin inscription 'EGO ZENOVIUM VOTUM POSUI’ (I, Zenovius, have brought this gift), which proves the incursion of the Christianity among the Dacian Roman population as early as the 4th century.

The Pulpit, which is an actual artistic work, was built by the master Ulrich of Brasov in 1523. It is a remarkably valuable piece, as it was carved from a single rock. The shapes in relief present biblical scenes: the crucifixion, the Gethsemane garden, Simon's prophecy, Jesus on the Mount of Olives, etc.

The decorations are made in gothic style, also having renaissance influences. The pulpit is placed on a pyramid turned upside down, with many corners. This is the most valuable stone work within the church. .

The Lid of the Pulpit is an interesting work made of wood and it has very beautiful painted decorations. It was built in 1754. The work is Baroque with a beautiful combination of colors.

The Pews were made of lime tree wood by Johannes Reichmut of Sighişoara between 1514 and 1523. Their value and beauty are emphasized especially by the remarkable marquerty that they contain.

Fortified Church Organ

Fortified Church Altar ##

The priests, bishops and ordained elders would sit on well-established seats, so that the priests would always sit on the right, while the church committee on the left.

The Door of the Vestry, unique in Europe, was built in 1515. It is made of oak tree wood and it is very solid. Its value is emphasized by the exterior plate which is decorated with very beautiful marquetries. They were made by the same J. Reichmut of Sighişoara, the one that also built the pews. As the door closed the room of the treasure, on the interior part was built a locking system that blocked all around in 19 spots.

In order to work all the nineteen locks one needs to use two objects: a key and a handle. With the key one would work four of the nineteen mechanisms, and with the handle the other fifteen. All these mechanisms, when acted upon, would penetrate metallic sockets in the wall. In 1910 the door together with the lock were taken to the world exhibition in Paris where it was awarded a prize.

The Organ, imposing in its dimensions and having an impressive sound, was built in 1869 by the master Karl Hesse of Vienna. It has 1290 tubes, 25 registers, pedals and 2 manuals. It is in good working condition. The organ was restored several times. In 1926 thorough cleaning was carried out and a few pipes were replaced. Another restoration took place in 1994 and was performed by Hermann Binder from Sibiu. The last restoration was performed in 2005 by a Swiss restoration team.

The Altar one of the biggest polyptic altars in Transylvania, was built by the masters of Nurnberg and Vienna between 1483 and 1513. It contains 28 paintings that present scenes from the life of Jesus and Mary: the crucifixion, the baptism, the circumcision, as well as various paintings with saints. Some of them are copies of the paintings that are in the Schottenstift church in Vienna. The building of the altars in a triptych shape was only started in the 14th century. The panel is subdivided into three sections. When it is in the open position one can see eighteen paintings, whilst one can see another ten paintings when it is in the closed position. The altar is unique in Transylvania because of the number of paintings. In the middle of the altar, where the crucifix with Jesus Christ is, in the Catholic period there used to be a statue that represented Virgin Mary. This is where the name of the church comes from: 'Church Saint Mary'.

Here is represented the scene of Jesus’ crucifixion, with the inscription in Latin "SIC DEUS DILEXID MUNDUM UT FILIUMSUUM UNIGENITUM DARET UT OMNIS QUI CREDIT IN EUM NON PEREAD SED HABET VITAM ETERNAM". “For God so loved the world, that he gave his only begotten Son, that whosoever believeth in Him should not perish, but have everlasting life" At the bottom of the Cross are shown 3 people in profound veneration and suffering. They are Mary, Jesus’s mother, Mary Magdalene and John the beloved disciple. The Scriptures, John Chapter 19.20 say that when Jesus was crucified, he laid his eyes on the people at the bottom of the Cross, saying to Mary and John: "Woman, behold thy son!" and "Behold thy mother!" And from that moment on, John, Jesus’s beloved disciple, took Mary home with him, as his mother.

Fortified Church Matrimonial Prison #

The Matrimonial Prison … The building has two rooms meant to shelter the couple that wishes to divorce. They used an original reconciliation method, which meant that the two spouses were given a bed, a table, a chair, a spoon, bread and water. They had to share everything and they were forced to stay locked in there until they gave up the idea of divorce. The method proved to be efficient as for 300 years there was only one case of divorce.

From the psychological point of view, the reconciliation could be explained by the fact that the two spouses, no longer caught up in daily chores, stress and children, had to pay attention to each other and thus the communication was established again.

There could be another explanation, that is, the shame. In those times, after the Reformation, the rules of moral behavior were quite strict and therefore it was considered a great shame to be there. For this reason, quite often, the couple used to solve their problems before being locked in there.

Material Source:

Foreward and Introduction: Descrierea CIP a Bibliotecii Naţionale a României Noi Media Print (Discover Romania), Bucareşti Biserici fortificate ale saşilor din Transilvania Principal Author - Ioan Marian Tiplic; English Translation – Alina Cârâc ## Photo – Ovidiu Morar, Ştefan Petrescu

Short History and Main Body: Site brochure - Fortified Church of Biertan (1490-1524) # Photos – Site brochure Images – Ed Rozylowicz