Tanzania 7 - Preview (Chapter) - Lonely Planet › shop › pdfs › tanzania-7-preview.pdf ·...

Tanzania

Mary Fitzpatrick, Ray Bartlett, David Else, Anthony Ham, Helena Smith

HighlandsSouthern

TanzaniaWestern

p126Tanzania

p52

Northern

p237Central Tanzania

p75Archipelago

p315Tanzania

Northeastern

p153Tanzania

p246Lake Victoria

p263

p281Southeastern

Zanzibar

Dar es Salaam

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Welcome to Tanzania . . . . 4Tanzania Map . . . . . . . . . . 6Tanzania’s Top 11 . . . . . . . 8Need to Know . . . . . . . . . 14If You Like . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16Month by Month . . . . . . . 19Itineraries . . . . . . . . . . . . 22Safaris . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28Active Tanzania . . . . . . . . 37Travel with Children . . . .46Regions at a Glance . . . .48

DAR ES SALAAM . . . 52Around Dar es Salaam . . 71Northern Beaches . . . . . . .71Offshore Islands . . . . . . . . 73Southern Beaches . . . . . . 73

ZANZIBAR ARCHIPELAGO . . . . . 75Zanzibar Island . . . . . . . . 77Zanzibar Town . . . . . . . . . . 77Zanzibar Town’s Offshore Islands . . . . . . . . 99Mangapwani . . . . . . . . . . 100Nungwi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 100Kendwa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 104Tumbatu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 105Matemwe . . . . . . . . . . . . . 105Kiwengwa . . . . . . . . . . . . . 107Pongwe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 108Michamvi Peninsula . . . . 108Bwejuu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 109Paje . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .110Jambiani . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 113Makunduchi . . . . . . . . . . . . 114Kizimkazi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 115Fumba & Menai Bay . . . . .116Pemba . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 117Chake Chake . . . . . . . . . . .119Mkoani . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 121Kiweni . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 122Wete . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 122Tumbe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 123Ngezi Forest Reserve . . . 124Kigomasha Peninsula . . 124

NORTHEASTERN TANZANIA . . . . . . . . 126Bagamoyo . . . . . . . . . . . . 128Saadani National Park . . . 130

Pangani . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 132Tanga . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 136Muheza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 141Korogwe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 141Usambara Mountains . . 141Amani Nature Reserve . . . 142Soni . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 143Lushoto . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 144Mlalo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .147Mtae . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 148Pare Mountains . . . . . . 149Same . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 149Mbaga . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 150Mwanga . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 151Usangi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 151Mkomazi National Park . . . . . . . . 152

NORTHERN TANZANIA . . . . . . . . 153Northern Safari Circuit . . . . . . . . 155Arusha . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 155Arusha National Park . . . . 167Tarangire National Park . . . . . . . . . .172Manyara Ranch Conservancy . . . . . . . . . . .174Mto wa Mbu . . . . . . . . . . .175Lake Manyara National Park . . . . . . . . . .176Karatu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .178Lake Eyasi . . . . . . . . . . . . 180Ngorongoro Conservation Area . . . . . .181Lake Natron . . . . . . . . . . . 188Oldupai Gorge & Western Ngorongoro . . . 190Serengeti National Park . . . . . . . . . .191Kilimanjaro Area . . . . . 225

PLAN YOUR TRIP ON THE ROAD

TR

3GIN

/ SH

UT

TE

RSTO

CK

©

SLAVE MEMORIAL, ANGLICAN CATHEDRAL P80

ALE

KS

AN

DA

R TO

DO

RO

VIC

/ SH

UT

TE

RSTO

CK

©

MAASAI WARRIORS P187

Contents

Moshi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 225Machame . . . . . . . . . . . . . 231Marangu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 231Mt Kilimanjaro National Park . . . . . . . . . 233West Kilimanjaro . . . . . . 235

CENTRAL TANZANIA . . . . . . . . 237Dodoma . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 238Kondoa Rock-Art Sites . . .241Babati . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 243Mt Hanang . . . . . . . . . . . . 244Singida . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 245

LAKE VICTORIA . . . 246Musoma . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 247Mwanza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 249Ukerewe Island . . . . . . . . 256Rubondo Island National Park . . . . . . . . . 257Biharamulo . . . . . . . . . . . 258Bukoba . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 259

WESTERN TANZANIA . . . . . . . . 263Tabora . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 265Kigoma . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 267Ujiji . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .271Gombe National Park . . .271Mahale Mountains National Park . . . . . . . . . 272Kalema . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 276Kipili . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 276Kasanga . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 277Mpanda . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 277Katavi National Park . . . 277Sumbawanga . . . . . . . . . 280

SOUTHERN HIGHLANDS . . . . . . 281Morogoro . . . . . . . . . . . . . 284Mikumi National Park . . . . . . . . . 286Mikumi Town . . . . . . . . . . 288Udzungwa Mountains National Park . . . . . . . . . 288Iringa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 291Kalenga . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 297Ruaha National Park . . . 297Makambako . . . . . . . . . . . 300Njombe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 301Kitulo National Park . . . 302Mbeya . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 303Lake Rukwa . . . . . . . . . . . 307Tukuyu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 308Kasumulu . . . . . . . . . . . . . 309Lake Nyasa . . . . . . . . . . . 309Songea . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 313Tunduru . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 314

SOUTHEASTERN TANZANIA . . . . . . . . 315Mafia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .317Selous Game Reserve . . . . . . . . . 322Kilwa Masoko . . . . . . . . . 326Kilwa Kisiwani . . . . . . . . . 329Songo Mnara . . . . . . . . . . 330Kilwa Kivinje . . . . . . . . . . 330Songo Songo . . . . . . . . . . 331Lindi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 332Mtwara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 333Mikindani . . . . . . . . . . . . . 338Mnazi Bay-Ruvuma Estuary Marine Park . . . 339Makonde Plateau . . . . . . 340

Tanzania Today . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 344History . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 346People & Daily Life . . . 354Environment & National Parks . . . . . . . 359Tanzanian Cuisine . . . . 365

Directory A-Z . . . . . . . . . 370Transport . . . . . . . . . . . . 380Health . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 391Language . . . . . . . . . . . . 398Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 407Map Legend . . . . . . . . . 414

SURVIVAL GUIDE

UNDERSTAND

SPECIAL FEATURESSafaris . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28Active Tanzania . . . . . . . . 37Dar es Salaam City Walk . . . . . . . . . . . . .55Wildlife & Habitat Colour Feature . . . . . . . 201Tanzanian Cuisine . . . . 365

Itineraries

#÷

#•

SerengetiNP

TarangireNP

LakeManyara

NP

#÷

#•Matemwe

R

I N D I A NO C E A N

ZanzibarIsland

#–

#•

#•

Jambiani

Dar es Salaam

MtKilimanjaro

#•

#•

#•

NgorongoroCrater

É

É

É

É

ÉÉ

#÷

É

ÉÉ

Arusha

Moshi

Zanzibar Town(Stone Town) É

KENYA

É

Tanzania’s Greatest Hits

This route combines wildlife watching or trekking with gorgeous beaches and the al-luring ‘Spice Islands’. It’s a popular itinerary, with plenty of accommodation and dining choices at all stops.

Fly into Kilimanjaro International Airport. Starting at Arusha, spend your first week exploring a few of the northern parks. Good wildlife-watching combinations include Ngorongoro Crater and Serengeti National Park or Ngorongoro plus Lake Man-yara National Park and Tarangire National Park. Alternatively, head from the air-port to Moshi and embark on a Mt Kilimanjaro trek. For either of these options (epic wildlife watching or serious mountain trekking), there are also numerous opportunities for hiking and cultural interaction around Arusha and Moshi.

Give the second half of your adventure over to less energetic pursuits. First, either fly to Zanzibar Island or travel overland from Moshi or Arusha and then catch a boat. Once here, divide your week between exploration of Stone Town (Zanzibar Town’s his-toric quarter) and relaxation on the island’s beaches – Matemwe and Jambiani are just two of the possibilities for getting your fill of white sand. Fly out again from Zanzibar Island, or from nearby Dar es Salaam.

2 WEEKS

22 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

The Southern Highlands is one of Tanzania’s most scenic regions, appealing especially to adventure-loving travellers with at least several weeks at their disposal. For those with more time and a taste for the offbeat, the region links nicely with western Tanzania.

From Dar es Salaam, head west to Morogoro for cultural tours and hiking, or to Mikumi National Park, with its easily spotted wildlife. Next stop: Udzungwa Moun-tains National Park, for hiking up the steep, lushly vegetated slopes or exploring the surrounding Kilombero area. Alternatively, continue from Mikumi to Iringa, which makes a relaxing base. From Iringa, a two- or three-night detour to Ruaha National Park is well worth the effort, before heading down the Tanzam Hwy to Mbeya. En route are several lovely spots to relax and explore.

Once in Mbeya, there is plenty to do in the surrounding area. Options include hiking in the scenic hills around Tukuyu; canoeing, exploring and hiking around Lake Nyasa, using Matema, with its picturesque beach and lush mountains, as a base; and hiking in lovely Kitulo National Park, with its wildflowers and wide vistas.

Taking your time, it would be easy enough to spend the first three weeks of your itinerary up to this point. With the remaining time, you could return the way you came, with several days left over at the end for a short stay on Zanzibar Island or Mafia. On Mafia, don’t miss a day of diving or snorkelling from a wooden dhow.

For those wanting more adventure, we recommend continuing northwest from Mbeya via Sumbawanga to Katavi National Park. This park deserves at least two days, espe-cially in the dry season when wildlife watching is at its best. From Katavi, double back and head down the escarpment to Lake Tanganyika for several days relaxing at Lake Shore Lodge near Kipili before taking the MV Liemba to Mahale Mountains National Park, or on to Kigoma and perhaps an overnight at nearby Gombe National Park. From Kigo-ma, take a train, bus or plane back to Dar es Salaam. Alternatively – but this will require two to three additional weeks – you can continue overland from Kigoma to Mwanza and Lake Victoria, from where you could proceed into the Serengeti and on to Arusha.

6 WEEKS

MikumiNP

#÷UdzungwaMountains

NP

RuahaNP

KataviNP

MahaleMountains NP

GombeNP

SerengetiNP

ZanzibarIsland

Mafia

#÷

#÷

#÷

#÷

#÷

#÷

LakeVictoria

LakeTanganyika

É

ÉÉÉ

ÉÉ

É

É

É

É

É

Lake Nyasa

Arusha

Mwanza

Kigoma

Kipili

Mbeya

TukuyuMatema

Iringa

MorogoroDar esSalaam

KENYA

RWANDA

BURUNDI

DEMOCRATICREPUBLIC OFTHE CONGO

ZAMBIA MALAWI

#•

#•

É

É

#•#÷Kitulo NP

É

#•

#•

#•

#•

#•#•

#•

#•

#•

#•

Southern Highlands & Western Tanzania

23PLAN

YOUR TRIP It

Ine

ra

rIe

s

Northeastern Tanzania has accommodation options and transport connections for all budgets, and a delightful mix of beach, cultural and historical attractions and bush. For combination itineraries, it’s also conveniently sandwiched between Tanzania’s northern circuit wildlife parks and Mt Kilimanjaro to the northwest, and the Zanzibar Archi-pelago to the east.

From Kilimanjaro airport, spend time in Moshi before heading southeast to the Usambara Mountains around Lushoto. It’s easy to spend up to a week here hiking, exploring and enjoying the hill panoramas. Botanists and birders can venture further to Amani Nature Reserve in the eastern Usambaras, with its cool forest walks and night-time symphony of insects. With extra time and a tolerance for off-the-beaten-track travel, another possible detour before reaching Lushoto is to the Pare Mountains for hiking and getting to know local Pare culture.

Once you’ve finished exploring the mountains, travel eastwards to Tanga. This coastal town, with its relaxed ambience, wide streets filled with cyclists, nearby beaches and many nearby excursions, is one of Tanzania’s most pleasant urban areas. It’s also the starting point for exploring the Pangani area, with its quiet coastline and long history. Many travellers wind up staying here longer than planned.

Zanzibar Island is just across the channel from Pangani, and there are regular boat and plane connections linking the island with Pangani and with nearby Tanga. Once on Zanzibar Island, get to know Zanzibar Town’s Stone Town, relax on a beach or two or three and perhaps also venture to Pemba for a complete change of pace. After you have finished your exploration of the archipelago, frequent boat and plane connections make it easy to get to Dar es Salaam. Allow a day or several in this crowded, bustling city to see the sights, do some final shopping, enjoy the array of good eateries and perhaps even visit nearby historical Bagamoyo or (with a bit more time) tiny Saadani National Park. An enjoyable way to incorporate these latter destinations into your travels is by making your way down the coast from Pangani to Bagamoyo via lovely Sange beach.

4 WEEKS

R

R

KilimanjaroInternational

Airport

Moshi

LushotoTanga

Pangani

Zanzibar Town(Stone Town)

Bagamoyo

Dar esSalaam

PareMountains

UsambaraMountains


SaadaniNP

AmaniNR

#÷

#–

É

É

É

É

R

#•

R

#•

#•

#•

#•

ZanzibarIsland

Pemba#•

É

É

ÉÉ

É

É

#•

Sange

#÷

#•

#Ù

É

É

KENYA

Northeastern Tanzania

24

PLAN YO

UR TRIP ItIn

er

ar

Ies

This itinerary is ideal for those wanting to get a glimpse of Tanzania’s wildlife and beaches away from the more standard northern circuit–Zanzibar Archipelago combina-tion. Allow about 10 days for a straight Selous–Mafia combination, and up to four weeks for extended versions taking in Kilwa and Mikindani, further south.

Starting in Dar es Salaam, spend several days enjoying the city’s restaurants and craft shopping, visiting a museum or taking a cultural tourism tour.

From Dar es Salaam, there are daily buses in the dry season to Selous Game Re-serve, but it’s a long, rough ride. There’s also a slow train, and daily flights. The Selous is a magnificent reserve, and well worth at least three to four days enjoying its fine lodges, boat safaris, wildlife and amazing night sounds, especially hippos grunting in the Rufiji River.

From Selous, there are daily flights to Mafia, just offshore. Spend the remaining few days of your stay here in one of the lovely island lodges, diving and snorkelling, trying to spot whale sharks or sailing to some of the smaller islands to get a glimpse into the archipelago’s fascinating Swahili culture and long history. From Mafia, take one of the several daily flights back to Dar es Salaam.

For adventurous travellers with more time and a taste for the offbeat, continue from Selous Game Reserve (or from the mainland coast opposite Mafia island, for those who depart Mafia by boat) to Tanzania’s far south. Sleepy Kilwa Masoko makes a pleas-ant destination for a day or two. The town is also the springboard to the famed ruins at Kilwa Kisiwani, just offshore. Another possible excursion from Kilwa Masoko is to nearby Fanjove Private Island, which has a lovely, upmarket lodge, and which is eas-ily combined with both Mafia and Kilwa. Once you’ve finished exploring in the Kilwa area, continue by bus south via Lindi to the Mtwara area, where Mikindani – with its coconut plantations and long history – and the beach at Msimbati, in the Mnazi Bay-Ruvuma Estuary Marine Park, are the highlights.

10 DAYS

SelousGR#÷

#•

Dar esSalaam

Kilwa MasokoKilwa Kisiwani

LindiMtwara

MikindaniMnazi Bay-RuvumaEstuary MP#÷

#•

#•

#•

#•#•


Mafia

#–É

É

É

É

É

É

#–

É

#–

É

#•

#•

FanjovePrivateIsland

ÉÉ

É

Selous, Mafia & Beyond

25PLAN

YOUR TRIP It

Ine

ra

rIe

s

Lake Victoria is a fascinating region with much to offer those who enjoy exploring off the beaten track. It’s also easily combined with wildlife watching in Serengeti National Park.

From Arusha, head west to Serengeti, stopping en route in Karatu to enjoy the cool and stunning highlands, and in Ngorongoro Crater for wildlife and magnificent views from the crater rim. Following exploration of central Serengeti, continue into the park’s Western Corridor, which is especially rewarding around May and early June. Exit the park at Ndabaka gate, from where it’s an easy bus ride on good tarmac north to lively Musoma.

With extra time and a taste for adventure, consider varying the above approach to the Serengeti to arrive in the park via Lake Natron: after leaving Arusha, continue west on good tarmac toward Karatu. Before reaching Karatu, turn north at the lively market vil-lage of Mto wa Mbu toward Engaresero and Lake Natron. Spend at least one night at Lake Natron, ideally two or three. Nearby, and dominating vistas, is the starkly majestic Ol Doinyo Lengai – a rewarding trek for adventurous travellers. Once finished exploring the Lake Natron area, continue northwest via Loliondo village and the honey-producing village of Ololosokwan to enter the Serengeti via the park’s northerly Klein’s gate. Spend several days exploring the northern Serengeti before heading south toward central Serengeti, then joining the main route through the Western Corridor toward Musoma.

In Musoma, it’s easy to spend several days becoming acquainted with the region’s many cultures and enjoying sunrise and sunset views over Lake Victoria. Once ready to move on, take the bus south to Mwanza, with its low-key vibe and good facilities.

Continue west around the lake toward pretty, prosperous Bukoba and the heart of the ancient Haya kingdom. There are many cultural tours to see waterfalls, cave paintings and rural homesteads that offer an excellent introduction to Haya life and culture. En route to Bukoba, don’t miss Rubondo Island National Park, with its magnificent birding. Once finished, connections are easy into Rwanda (at Rusumu Falls) or Uganda (Mutukula). This itinerary can be rearranged with Mwanza as the starting point, with the advantage that Serengeti safaris are generally cheaper to arrange from Mwanza than from Arusha.

3 WEEKS

SerengetiNP#÷

LakeVictoria

É

Arusha

Mwanza

KENYA

RWANDA

BURUNDI

#•#•Musoma

Bukoba

#•Karatu

#÷

#•

#•

#•

Mutukula

RusumuFalls

NgorongoroCrater

RubondoIsland NP

UGANDA

É

É

É

É

É

É

É

É

É

#•Mto waMbu

#•Ol Doinyo Lengai

#•Ololosokwan

#•Engaresaro

É

É

É

LakeNatron

#•

#•

Lake Victoria & Serengeti National Park

26

PLAN YO

UR TRIP ItIn

er

ar

Ies

Road conditions in central Tanzania have improved greatly, opening up the chance for circuit itineraries combining northern and central Tanzania with the Southern High-lands, the coast and northeastern Tanzania. Four weeks is the minimum, but there’s enough to do to keep you busy for twice that long.

Arusha makes a convenient starting point. Allow up to a week here, perhaps tak-ing in a northern circuit safari or some cultural tourism activities. From Arusha, head southwest toward Babati, where you can detour for a hike up Mt Hanang. Afterwards, continue on to Dodoma via Singida, which is completely off the beaten track. Take a stroll near Lake Singidani and visit Singida’s small museum. Alternatively, head south from Babati directly to Dodoma, stopping en route at the Kondoa Rock-Art Sites.

Dodoma itself – Tanzania’s official capital – is worth a day or two, walking the wide streets, admiring the religious architecture and possibly visiting the Bunge (parliament). From Dodoma, continue south on a recently upgraded road to Iringa, as well as the gate-way to the lovely Southern Highlands to the southwest. From here, you could travel south-west toward Njombe, Mbeya or Tukuyu. Otherwise, head northeast toward Morogoro, stopping en route at Udzungwa Mountains National Park for several days of hiking, and at Mikumi National Park for wildlife watching. Wildlife watching is also easily incor-porated into this itinerary in Ruaha National Park, which is readily accessed from Iringa.

In Morogoro, allow a day or two to explore the Ulugurus on a cultural tourism pro-gram tour before continuing east to Dar es Salaam or northeast toward Pangani and Tanga. Once on the coast, it’s easy to arrange a detour to the Zanzibar Archipelago, with flights from Dar es Salaam, Pangani and Tanga and sea connections from Pangani and Dar es Salaam. After relaxing along the coast, head to the Usambara Mountains for hiking in the hills before continuing on to Moshi, home of the Chagga people and of Mt Kilimanjaro. It’s easy to spend several days here exploring the mountain’s lower slopes and enjoying Moshi’s laid-back vibe. From Moshi, take the bus back to Arusha or to Kilimanjaro airport and your flight home.

6 WEEKS

MikumiNP

#÷UdzungwaMountains

NP

RuahaNP

ZanzibarIsland

#÷#÷

ÉÉÉÉ

É

É

ÉArusha

Mbeya

Tukuyu

Iringa

Morogoro Dar esSalaam

KENYA

ZAMBIA

MALAWI

É

É#•

#•

#•

#•

#•

#•

#•

MoshiBabati

Singida

Njombe

TangaPangani

KondoaRock-ArtSites

Mt Kilimanjaro

UsambaraMountains Pemba

#_DODOMA

#•

ZanzibarArchipelago

É

ÉÉ

É

É

ÉÉÉ

É

É

É

É

#•

#•

#•

#•

#•

#•

R

R

Tanzania Circuit

27PLAN

YOUR TRIP It

Ine

ra

rIe

s

SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travellers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to your submissions, we always guarantee that your feed-back goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters.

Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions.

Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don’t want your comments reproduced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/privacy.

405405

OUR READERSMany thanks to the travellers who used the last edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful advice and interesting anecdotes: Austin Oakley, Christian Arleth, Claerwen Snell, Edwin & Anne-Marie Schuurman, Hiroki Nishida, Isabel Fofana, Jolien Philipsen, Juergen Schweigler, Julie Syltern, Keisuke Mochida, Lynnae Ruttledge, Mark Peterson, Matthieu Kamerman, Mike Hawkins, Nathan Allinson, Nikitas van Maaren, Ondřej Černík, Robert Martyniecki, Rosy Danby, Rupert Wilkinson, Samantha Caselli, Valentina Schneck, Whitney Haruf, Zuberi Mabie

AUTHOR THANKSMary FitzpatrickMany people helped during the research and writing of this book. I’d especially like to thank Nassor in Newala, Sultan in Dar es Salaam, Abdullah in So-manga and Eustacia in Selous Game Reserve. My gratitude also to Destination Editor Matt Phillips and to my Tanzania co-authors. My biggest thanks goes to Rick, Christopher, Dominic and Gabriel for their entertaining company during research and their patience and good humour during write-up.

Ray BartlettMy family. Matt P, editor extraordinaire. Sachi, Maha, Bintee, Dorocella, Zhen, Dawson, Ruge, Sauda, Paschal, Mr Gara, Happiness, Mr Bita, Mariam,

Hezron, Placilia, Will I Am, Jullyan, Novart, George, Rachel, Elizabeth, Megan and Evan, Eustocia, Ratna, Dharmesh, Loyce, Jacky, Clara, William, Peter, Paul, Gabriel, Enock, Chesco, Yusuph, Abdullah, Siwema, Khatib, Antonny, Jabiri, Charles, Juma, Francisco, Neema, Nixon, Novart, Nuru, Kalfan, Hussein, Chris and Louise, Miho-san, and the incredible people of Tanzania. Thank you for such a lovely time in your sweet, special country.

David ElseMany thanks go first to the travellers and Zanzibaris that I met along the way; their insights and stories were invaluable. Big thanks also to my old pal Peter Bennett for local knowledge. And the biggest thanks to Corinne, my wife, for keeping the home fires burning while I’m on the road.

Anthony HamHeartfelt thanks to Matt Phillips, my Africa friend and editor of long standing for continuing to entrust me with a corner of the earth I adore. Warmest thanks also to Peter Ndirangu Wamae, another companion of the African road over many years. Carole and Donald Boag were wonderful hosts in the Serengeti, and thanks to Mary Fitzpatrick for her enduring wisdom. Thanks also to Jörg Gabriel, Victor Swanepoel, Tara Walraven and so many others. To my family, Marina, Carlota and Valentina: thank you for sharing my love of Africa and for giving me so many special memo-ries there.

Behind the Scenes


406

BEHIN

D THE SCEN

ES

Helena SmithAsante Elidady for a warm welcome and Art for arranging it, Mwisho Msumai for the lowdown on Morogoro, and Joas Kahembe in Babati. In Iringa thanks to Bill Allen, Owen Flagel and Joan Mayer for a great night out, and Rajipa David for a great day out. Jessica Klink, Cori Van Dyke and especially Amy Glasser who shared knowledge of Mbeya and Matema. Thanks too to Amelia in Mbeya, Erica Zelfand for help with Tukuyu, and Moyo Jacob Mwagobele in Matema.

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTSClimate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrol-ogy and Earth System Sciences, 11, 163–344.Cover photograph: Elephants, Tarangire National Park, Licinia Machado/500px ©

THIS BOOKThis 7th edition of Lonely Planet’s Tanzania guidebook was researched and written by Mary Fitzpatrick, Ray Bartlett, David Else, Anthony Ham and Helena Smith. The previous two editions were written by Mary Fitzpatrick, Tim Bewer, Stuart Butler, Anthony Ham and Paula Hardy. This guide-

book was produced by the following:Destination Editor Matt PhillipsProduct Editor Grace DobellSenior Product Editor Anne MasonSenior Cartographer Diana Von HoldtBook Designer Wibowo RusliAssisting Editors Sarah

Bailey, Judith Bamber, Michelle Bennett, Nigel Chin, Melanie Dankel, Andrea Dobbin, Alex-ander Knights, Kristin Odijk, Gabrielle Stefanos, Simon WilliamsonCartographer Mick GarrettCover Researcher Naomi ParkerThanks to William Allen, Han-nah Cartmel, Elizabeth Jones, Kirsten Rawlings

407

Index

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

AAbushiri Revolt 134accommodation 370-1, see

also individual locationslanguage 399

activities 19-21, 37-45, see also individual activities

African buffalo (Cape Buf-falo), see buffaloes

African elephants, see elephants

African fish eagles 219, 218AIDS 355, 393air travel 380-1, 386altitude sickness 396-7Amani Nature Reserve 142-3Amani sunbirds 142amoebic dysentery 395amusement parks

Bounce 58Umoja Children’s Park 119

animals, see wildlife, individual species

antelopes, see also waterbucks

Biharamulo 258Katavi National Park 278 Ruaha National Park 297

archaeological sitesIsimila Stone Age Site 295Katuruka Heritage Site

259 Laetoli 191Oldupai Gorge 190-1

architecture 80area codes 15, 377art galleries, see museums

& galleriesarts 357-8, see also dance,

musicArusha 155-67, 158-9

accommodation 155-61activities 155

dangers 164drinking 163food 161-3garages 164immigration 164internet access 164medical services 164money 165nightlife 163shopping 163-4sights 155tourist information 165tours 155travel agencies 165travel to/from 165-6travel within 167

Arusha National Park 167-71, 170

ATMs 374augur buzzards 219

BBabati 243-4baboons 335, 334

Jakobsen’s (Mwamahunga) Beach 267

Lake Manyara National Park 176

Mikumi National Park 286Ol Doinyo Lengai 190

Bagamoyo 128-30balloon safaris 196banded green sunbirds 142banded mongoose 217, 216baobab trees 300, 5, 223Barabaig people 244bargaining 377bateleurs 219, 219bathrooms 377Bawe 100beaches 10, 16, 104

Coco Beach 58Jakobsen’s (Mwama-

hunga) Beach 267Jambiani 113Kendwa 104

Kigamboni 73-4Kilwa Masoko 326-7Mafia 317Makoba Beach 119Mangapwani 100Matemwe 105Matvilla Beach 247-8Mbudya 73Paje 110Pongwe 108Sange beach 130Ushongo Beach 134Vumawimbi Beach 125

beer 366bicycle travel, see cyclingBiharamulo 258-9bilharzia 395birds, see individual speciesbirds of prey 219birdwatching 17, 45, 152

Arusha National Park 168-71

Katavi National Park 279Lake Manyara National

Park 176Lake Rukwa 280Manyara Ranch

Conservancy 175Mbizi Forest Reserve 280Ngezi Forest Reserve 124Rubondo Island National

park 257Serengeti National Park

192, 196Tarangire National Park

172 black-and-white colobus

208, 208black kites 181black rhinoceros 215, 214blue monkeys 167, 176, 186,

208, 208-9boat cruises & safaris 45

Dar es Salaam 58Kigamboni 73, 74Menai Bay 117Pangani 133

Saadani National Park 130Selous Game Reserve 322

boat travel 384-5, 387-8, see also dhows, ferries

books 344, 392border crossings

to/from Burundi 381, 384to/from Democratic

Republic of the Congo 384

to/from Kenya 381, 384to/from Kisii 382to/from Malawi 382, 384to/from Mombasa 381to/from Mozambique

382-3, 384to/from Nairobi 381-2to/from Rwanda 383to/from Uganda 383, 384to/from Voi 382to/from Zambia 383,

384-5Brachiosaurus brancai 334budget 15, 18, 371, 373, 375buffaloes 50, 211, 210


Katavi National Park 278Lake Manyara National

Park 176Mahale Mountains

National Park 273Mikumi National Park

286-7Mt Kilimanjaro National

Park 233 Ngorongoro Crater 181 Ruaha National Park 297Selous Game

Reserve 322Selous-Niassa Wildlife

Corridor 314Serengeti National Park

192Tarangire National Park

172Udzungwa Mountains

National Park 289


408

IND

EX B- E

Bujora 253Bukoba 259-62, 260Bulabo Dance Festival 253bus travel 381, 388bushbabies, see greater

galagosbushbucks 167, 181, 185bushwalking, see hiking,

walking safarisbusiness hours 15, 376butterflies 99Bwejuu 109-10

Ccamping 370, 371canoeing 33

Arusha National Park 171 Kilombero Valley 294Matema 310Mbamba Bay 311Ras Kutani 74 Ukerewe Island 257

Cape Buffaloes, see buffaloes

car travel 381, 388-9, 402caracals 205, 205cathedrals, see churches &

cathedrals caves

Amboni Caves 140Mangapwani Coral

Cave 100cell phones 14, 377central Tanzania 49, 237-45

accommodation 237climate 237food 237highlights 238travel seasons 237

Chagga people 230, 232, 254

Chake Chake 119-21, 120Changuu 99Chapwani 99cheetahs 203, 203

Ruaha National Park 297Serengeti National Park

192-3, 360Tarangire National

Park 172West Kilimanjaro 236

Chief Kimweri 148Chief Mkwawa 297children, travel with

46-7, 61

chimpanzees 12, 45, 207, 275, 12, 207

Gombe National Park 273

Mahale Mountains National Park 273

Rubondo Island National Park 257

Chole 318cholera 392Chumbe 100churches & cathedrals

Anglican Cathedral 80-1, 2

Anglican Church 239Azania Front Lutheran

Church 54Bunena Church 259Catholic Cathedral

(Dodoma) 239Catholic Cathedral

(Tabora) 265Catholic Cathedral

(Zanzibar Town) 80Lutheran Cathedral 239St Joseph Cathedral 54St Paul’s Church 335

cichlids 255, 276, 309climate 14, 19-21, 371, see

also individual regionscoffee 230, 367colobus monkeys 360, 361

Arusha 161Jozani-Chwaka National

Park 99Mahale Mountains

National Park 273Ngezi Forest Reserve 124

conservation see marine parks & reserves, national parks & reserves

consulates 372-3costs 15courses

cooking 86, 105craft 86language 86, 373

Crater Highlands 186-8credit cards 375crocodiles 257

Grumeti River 193, 197Katavi National Park 278Lake Rukwa 307Lukwika-Lumesule Game

Reserve 342Mahale Mountains

National Park 273Mikumi National Park

286Pangani 133

Rubondo Island National Park 257

Ruaha National Park 297-8

Saadani National Park 130

Selous Game Reserve 322

Udzungwa Mountains National Park 289

cultural tourism programs 18

Arusha 156-7 Engaruka 187Irangi 244Karatu 178Lake Eyasi 180Lake Natron 188Morogoro 284Mto wa Mbu 175Pangani 133 Ruaha National Park 298

culture 344-5, 354-8currency 14customs regulations 371-2cycling 386-7

language 402Zanzibar Town 85

Ddalla-dallas 389dance 357-8dangers, see health, safetyDar es Salaam 48, 52-74,

53, 56, 62, 72accommodation 52,

59-61, 63-4activities 57-8children, travel with 61climate 52dangers 68drinking 66emergencies 67entertainment 66-7events 58food 52, 64-6highlights 53history 53-4immigration 67internet access 67-8medical services 68money 68nightlife 66planning 52postal services 68shopping 67sights 54-7telephone services 68tourist information 68

tours 58travel agencies 68-9travel seasons 52travel to/from 69-70travel within 70-1walking tours 55

Dar es Salaam Marine Reserve 73

dengue fever 393dhows 45, see also boat

cruises & safaris, boat travel

diarrhoea 395-6dik-diks 152, 168dinosaurs 334diptheria 393disabilities, travellers with

377-8diving 10, 18, 42-5, 17, 43

Chumbe 100costs 43-4courses 43-4environmental

concerns 44Kendwa 104Kigomasha Peninsula

125Kizimkazi 116Lake Tanganyika 276Mafia 318Mafia Island Marine

Park 319Matemwe 105Mikindani 339Mnemba 106Nungwi 101operators 44-5Paje 111Pangani 133Zanzibar Island 103Zanzibar Town 85-6

Dodoma 238-41, 240dolphins 115drinks 399-401driving, see car travel,

motorcycle travelduikers

Arusha National Park 168

Jozani Forest 99Mahale Mountains

National Park 273 Serengeti National

Park 192dysentery 395

EEastern Arc mountains 360economy 344education 345


409IN

DEX E-H

Eid al-Fitr 89elands

Biharamulo 258Katavi National Park 278 Lukwika-Lumesule Game

Reserve 342Mkomazi National

Park 152Mt Kilimanjaro National

Park 233 Ngorongoro

Conservation Area 181, 182

Serengeti National Park 192

Tarangire National Park 172

electricity 372elephants 28, 212, 213


Biharamulo 258Katavi National Park 278 Lake Manyara National

Park 176Lukwika-Lumesule Game


National Park 273Manyara Ranch

Conservancy 174Mkomazi National

Park 152Mikumi National Park

286-7Mt Kilimanjaro National

Park 233 Ngorongoro Crater 181 Ruaha National Park

297-300Rubondo Island National

Park 257Saadani National Park

130Selous Game Reserve

322Selous-Niassa Wildlife

Corridor 314Serengeti National

Park 192Tarangire National

Park 172Udzungwa Mountains

National Park 289West Kilimanjaro 236

embassies 372emergencies 15

language 401environment 359-64environmental issues

362-4etiquette 371

events, see festivals & events

exchange rates 15

Fferries, see also boat travel

Busisi Ferry 256Kamanga Ferry 256Kigamboni (Magogoni)

ferry 74festivals & events 19-21

Bulabo Dance Festival 254

Eid al-Fitr 89Festival of the Dhow

Countries 21goat races 58Mwaka Kogwa 114Nyama Choma 58Sauti za Busara 19Swahilil Fashion Week 58

filariasis 393films 344fishing 45

Dar es Salaam 58Kigamboni 74Mafia 318

flamingos 189, 221, 220-1Arusha National Park 169Lake Eyasi 180Lake Manyara National

Park 176, 178Lake Natron 188 Ngorongoro Crater 181 Saadani National Park

130flying foxes 124food 365-8, see also

individual locationsetiquette 365language 399-401sights 64-6 vegetarian 368

Fumba 116-17

GGalanos Sulphur Springs

140galleries, see museums &

galleriesgardens, see parks &

gardensgay travellers 373gazelles 211, 359

Ngorongoro Crater 181-2Oldupai Gorge 190Ruaha National Park 297Serengeti National

Park 192

geography 359gerenuk 211, 210giant tortoises 99giardiasis 395-6giraffes 212, 212

Arusha National Park 167Biharamulo 258Mahale Mountains


Conservancy 175Mikumi National Park

286 Rubondo Island National

Park 257 Saadani National Park

130Serengeti National

Park 192 Tarangire National

Park 172Gol Mountains 191golden jackals 217, 216Gombe National Park 271-2Goodall, Jane 271, 272, 275government 344-5Grant’s gazelles 181, 192,

297, see also gazellesGreat Rift Valley 361greater galagos 208,

208-9greater kudus, see kudusgreen-headed oriole 142Grumeti Game Reserve 193guesthouses 370-1 guides & porters 39,

169, 235

Hhabitats 222Hadzabe people 180handicrafts 86, 94, 96, 163hartebeests

Mkomazi National Park 152

Ngorongoro Conservation Area 181




hawksbill turtles 100, 317Haya people 262health 391-7

environmental hazards 396-7

infectious diseases 392-5

insurance 391traditional medicine 396vaccinations 391water 397 websites 392

heat exhaustion 397Hehe people 297hepatitis 393hiking 16-17, 38-42, see

also walking safarisaltitude sickness 396-7books 302budgeting 42costs 38Crater Highlands 186Crater Lake 308guides 39hypothermia 397Irente Viewpoint 146Kindoroko Forest

Reserve 151Kitulo National Park 302Luhombero Peak 289Lumemo (Rumemo)

Trail 289Lushoto 146Mahale Mountains

National Park 273Mlalo 147Mt Hanang 245Mt Kilimanjaro 234-5Mt Meru 168-9Mt Nkungwe 273Mt Rungwe 308Mwanihana Peak 289Ngozi Peak 308operators 41-2porters 39responsible trekking 39Sanje Falls 289Shagayu Peak 148Soni 143Tukuyu 308Udzungwa Mountains

National Park 289Uluguru Mountains 286

hippopotamuses 50, 215, 359, 215


Babati 243Katavi National Park 278Kilwa Masoko 327Lake Manyara National

Park 176Lukwika-Lumesule Game


National Park 273Mikumi National Park 287

410

IND

EX H-M

hippopotamuses continued Ngorongoro Crater 181Rubondo Island National

Park 257Ruaha National Park 297Saadani National Park

130 Selous Game Reserve

322Udzungwa Mountains

National Park 289history 346-53

Abushiri Revolt 134Arusha Declaration

350-1colonial era 348democracy 353European migration 347independence 349-50Kilwa Kisiwani 329Lushoto 144Maji Maji rebellion 312Mikindani 339Pangani 133Selous Game Reserve 322Swahili culture 347Tanga 136Tanganyika African

Association (TANU) 348-9

Ujamaa 350hitching 389HIV 393holidays 376honey badgers 217horse riding 45hyenas 174, 181, 187, 192,

see also spotted hyenashypothermia 397

IIkorongo Game Reserve

194immigration 380impalas 192, 250, 287infectious diseases 392-5insect bites 397insurance 373internet access 373internet resources 15Iraqw people 346, 354Iringa 291-7, 292Isimila Stone Age Site 295Islamic holidays 376islands 16

itineraries 22-7, 22-7Itungi 309

Jjackals 181, 192, 215,

298, 216Jambiani 113-14 Jibondo island 317-8 Jozani-Chwaka National

Park 99Juani island 318

KKalambo Falls 277Kalema 276Kalenga 297Karatu 178-80Kasanga 277Kasumulu 309Katavi National Park 277-9Katesh 244Katonga 267Katuruka Heritage Site 259kayaking 45

Kigamboni 73-4Zanzibar Town 85

Kendwa 104-5Kibirizi 267Kidike Flying Fox

Sanctuary 124Kigamboni 73-4Kigoma 267-71, 269Kigomasha Peninsula 124-5Kilimanjaro area 225-36,

227Kilombero Valley 294Kilwa Kisiwani 329-30, 13Kilwa Kivinje 330-1Kilwa Masoko 326-9, 327Kipilli 276-7KiSambaa language 147kitesurfing

Dar es Salaam 71Nungwi 101Paje 111

Kitulo National Park 302-3Kiwengwa 107Kiweni 122Kizimkazi 115-16klipspringers 167, 190, 192Kondoa rock-art sites 241-3Korogwe 141kudus 152, 172, 211, 236,

297, 211Kwa Mungu Mountain 143Kwai 143-4Kwembago 146Kyela 309-10

LLaetoli 191Lake Babati 243Lake Chala 232Lake Eyasi 180-1Lake Manyara National

Park 176-8Lake Natron 188-90Lake Nyasa 309-12Lake Rukwa 307-8Lake Singidani 245Lake Tanganyika 276Lake Victoria 13, 49,

246-62, 13accommodation 246climate 246food 246highlights 247travel seasons 246

languages 147, 180, 244, 347, 398-404

courses 86, 373Leakey, Mary 190-1, 275legal matters 373-4leopards 203, 202

Arusha National Park 168Mahale Mountains


Conservancy 174Mikumi National Park 286Mt Kilimanjaro National

Park 233 Ngorongoro Crater 182Serengeti National Park

192-3Tarangire National

Park 172 Udzungwa Mountains

National Park 289lesbian travellers 373lesser flamingos, see

flamingoslilac-breasted rollers 221,

220Lindi 332-3, 333lions 177, 192, 203, 202,

203, 224Biharamulo 258Katavi National Park 278Lake Manyara National

Park 176-7Mahale Mountains


Conservancy 174-5Mikumi National Park 286Ngorongoro Crater 181Ruaha National Park

298-9


Selous-Niassa Wildlife Corridor 314

Serengeti National Park 191, 192


West Kilimajaro 235-6Liuli 312literature, see books Loliondo Game Controlled

Area 194-5Luguru people 286Lukuba Island 248Lukwila-Lumesule Game

Reserve 342Lupanga Peak 286Lushoto 144-7, 145 Lutindi Cultural Tourism

Project 142

MMaasai people 187, 198,

2, 356Machame 231Mafia 317-22Mafia Island Marine Park

319, 318Mahale Mountains

National Park 272-5Mahiwa 341Maji Maji Rebellion 312Makambako 300-1Makonde people 341Makonde Plateau 340-2Makunduchi 114-15malaria 393-4Mambo 146, 148Mangapwani 100Manyara Ranch

Conservancy 174-5maps 374Marangu 231-2marine parks & reserves

Dar es Salaam Marine Reserve System 73

Mafia Island Marine Park 319

Maziwe Marine Reserve 135

Mnazi Bay-Ruvuma Estuary Marine Park 339-40

Tanga Coelacanth Marine Park 133

markets 11Central Market (Arusha)

164Central Market

(Mwanza) 249


411IN

DEX M

-OCrater Highlands 175Darajani Market 85Fish Market (Dar es

Salaam) 54-7Fish Market

(Mtwara) 337Karatu 178Kariakoo Market 67Kilombero Market 164Lake Eyasi 180Majengo Market 241Market Area 293Mt Meru Curios & Crafts

Market 164Mwaloni Market 249-50Mwigobero Market 248Ngaramtoni Market 164pottery market 310Tengeru Market 164Tumbe Fish Market 123-4Usambara Mountains 143

Masasi 341-2Matema 310-11Matemwe 105-7Mbaga 150-1Mbamba Bay 311-12Mbeya 303-7, 304Mbeya Peak 303-4Mbizi Forest Reserve 280Mbozi meteorite 307Mbudya 73measures 372media 372medical services 392Menai Bay 116-17meningococcal meningitis

394Michamvi Peninsula 108-9Mikindani 338-9Mikumi National Park

286-8Mikumi Town 288Misali Island 119Mkoani 121-2Mkomazi National Park 152Mlalo 147-8Mnazi Bay-Ruvuma Estuary

Marine Park 339-40Mnemba 106mobile phones 14, 377Momella route 168money 14, 372, 374-6monkeys, see blue monkeys,

colobus monkeys, vervet monkeys

Morogoro 284-6, 285Moshi 225-31, 228

accommodation 225-6drinking 226-9

food 226-7, 229immigration 230medical services 230money 230shopping 229-30tourist information 230travel agencies 230travel to/from 230-1travel within 231

mosquesAga Khan Mosque 79Gaddhaffi Mosque 239Ijumaa Mosque 85Ismaili Mosque 292-3Jamatkhana (Ismaili)

Mosque 239Sunni Mosque 239

motorcycle travel 381, 388-9Mpanda 277Msangamkuu Peninsula

340Msimbati Peninsula 340Mt Hanang 244-5Mt Kilimanjaro National

Park 11, 40, 233-5, 11, 37, 223-4

Mt Meru 168-9Mt Nkungwe 273Mt Rungwe 308Mtae 148Mto wa Mbu 175-6Mtwara 333-8, 336Mufindi 296Muheza 141museums & galleries

Afri Mak Arts & Crafts Group 334

Arusha Declaration Museum 155

Caravan Serai Museum 129

Catholic Museum 128Iringa Boma 291Kagera Museum 259Livingstone Memorial

Museum 271Maji Maji Museum 313Mwalimu Julius K Nyer-

ere Museum 249Nafasi Art Space 54National Museum &

House of Culture 54Natural History Museum

155Oldupai Museum 190-1Palace Museum 81-5Pemba Museum 119Princess Salme

Museum 79Sukuma Museum 253

Urithi Tanga Museum 137Village Museum 54

music 357-8Musoma 247-9Mwanga 151Mwanza 249-56, 250-1

accommodation 252-3dangers 254drinking 253-4food 253-4internet access 254medical services 254-5money 255safaris 250-2sights 249-50tours 250-2travel agencies 255travel to/from 255-6travel within 256

Nnational parks & reserves

359-64Amani Nature Reserve

142-3Arusha National Park

167-71, 170Gombe National Park

271-2Jozani-Chwaka National

Park 99Katavi National Park

277-9Kitulo National Park

302-3Lake Manyara National

Park 176-8Lukwila-Lumesule Game


National Park 272-5Manyara Ranch

Conservancy 174-5Mazumbai Forest

Reserve 146Mbizi Forest Reserve 280Mikumi National Park

286-8Mkomazi National

Park 152Mt Kilimanjaro National

Park 233-5, 37Ngezi Forest Reserve 124Ngorongoro

Conservation Area 9, 181-8

Ruaha National Park 13, 297-300

Rubondo Island National Park 257-8

Saadani National Park 130-2

Saa Nane National Park 250

Selous Game Reserve 12, 322-6, 323

Selous-Niassa Wildlife Corridor 314

Serengeti National Park 9, 191-225, 196, 194-5, 9

Tarangire National Park 172-4, 173

Udzungwa Mountains National Park 288-91

Ndanda 341Newala 342newspapers 372Ng’ambo, see Zanzibar

TownNgezi Forest Reserve 124Ngoni people 312Ngorongoro Conservation

Area 9, 181-8, 184-5, 8-9

Ngorongoro Crater 181-6, 31

Njombe 301-2northeastern Tanzania 49,

126-52accommodation 126climate 126culture 126food 126highlights 127history 128 travel seasons 126

northern safari circuit 155-200

northern Tanzania 49, 153-236

accommodation 153climate 153food 153highlights 154travel seasons 153

Nungwi 100-4, 10 Nyerere, Julius 249, 344,

348-9, 350, 352, 358

OOldupai Gorge 190-1olive baboons 207, 207Olpopongi Maasai Cultural

Village 236onchocerciasis (river

blindness) 394opening hours 15, 376oryx 152, 172ostriches 221, 297, 221

412

IND

EX P-T

Ppainting 358Paje 110-13Pangani 132-6Pare Mountains 149-51Pare people 150parks & gardens

Botanical Gardens 57Forodhani Gardens 79

pelican 180, 245Pemba 117-25, 118

travel to/from 117travel within 117-19

Pemba Channel Conservation Area 119

Pemba flying foxes 122, 124photography 376planning, see also

individual locationsbudgeting 15 calendar of events 19-21children, travel with 46-7costs 15internet resources 15itineraries 22-7safaris 28-36Tanzania basics 14-15Tanzania’s regions 48-50travel seasons 19-21

plants 360-1poliomyelitis 394politics 344-5Pongwe 108population 345porters & guides 39,

169, 235postal services 376public holidays 376

Rrabies 394-5radio 372raptors 168-9, 219Ras Kutani 74religion 345, 355-6river blindness 394road rules 389road safety 389rock art 13, 18

Fenga Rock-Art Complex 242

Igeleke Rock Art 293Kolo Rock-Art Site 242Kondoa Rock-Art Sites

241-3

Pahi Rock-Art Site 242-3

Thawi Rock-Art Site 242rock hyrax 215, 214-15Rongai Route 234Ruaha National Park 13,

297-300, 13, 223Rubondo Island National

Park 257-8ruins 13, 18

Chwaka Ruins 124Engaruka 187Kaole Ruins 128-9Kilwa Kisiwani 329, 13Kunduchi Ruins 71Maruhubi Palace 80Mikindani 339Mkame Ndume Ruins 121Mtoni Palace 79-80Ras Mkumbuu Ruins 121Tongoni ruins 136

Ruvula 340

SSaa Nane National Park

250Saadani National Park

130-2Saadani Village 132saddle-billed storks 221safaris 28-36, see

also boat cruises & safaris, walking safaris, wildlife drives

boat safaris 33canoe safaris 33costs 29destinations 28do-it-yourself safaris 34Iringa 293itineraries 33-4operators 34-6tipping 29vehicle safaris 30-2walking safaris 32-3

safety 376-7sailing 45Same 149-50Sandawe 242, 244, 354Sauti za Busara 19schistosomiasis

(bilharzia) 395 sculpture 358sea turtles 359

Jozani-Chwaka National Park 99

Ras Kutani 74 Songo Songo 331

seaweed 107, 112

secretary birds 219, 218-19Selous Game Reserve 12,

322-6, 323, 12Selous-Niassa Wildlife

Corridor 314Serengeti National

Park 9, 191-200, 196, 194-5, 9

Seronera River 192servals 205, 205Shagayu Peak 148Shira Plateau

Route 234 shopping, see bargaining,

markets, individual locations

language 401Singida 245Sitalike 279slave trade 77sleeping sickness 395snake bites 397snorkelling 18, 42-5

Changuu 99Chumbe 100costs 43-4courses 43-4Kigamboni 73-4Kipili 276Kiweni 122Mafia 318Mahale Mountains

National Park 273Marimbani 317Matema 310Matemwe 105Maziwe Marine Reserve

135Mbamba Bay 311Menai Bay 117Misali 119Mnazi Bay-Ruvuma

Estuary Marine Park 340

Nungwi 101operators 44-5 Pangani 133Ras Kutani 74

Songea 313-14Songo Mnara 330Songo Songo 331-2Soni 143-4southeastern Tanzania 50,

315-42accommodation 315climate 315food 315highlights 316travel seasons 315

southern highlands 50, 281-314

accommodation 281climate 281food 281highlights 282-3

spas 85spotted hyenas 217, 216-17Stone Town 10, 77, 79, 80,

10, see also Zanzibar Town

Stone Town Sukuma people 253, 254,

354, 357Sumbawanga 280superb starlings 221, 220Swahili language 398-404 Swahili time 378

Ttaarab 95Tabora 265-7, 266Tanga 136-41, 138-9Tarangire National Park

172-4, 173taxes 375taxis 389-90telephone services 14, 377television 372Thomson’s gazelle 211, see

also gazellestime 377, 378, 401tipping 375toilets 377topis 192, 278topography 359Tosamaganga 295tourist information 377, see

also individual locationstours 385-6, see also

cultural tourism pro-grams, walking tours, individual locations

coffee plantations 230, 367

cycling 58, 85, 142, 147, 175

touts 97, 376traditional medicine 396train travel 390travel advice 378travel to/from Tanzania

380-6travel within Tanzania

386-90travellers’ diarrhoea 395-6trekking, see hikingtribal groups 354, see also

individual groupsMap Pages 000Photo Pages 000

413IN

DEX T-Z

trypanosomiasis (sleeping sickness) 395

tuberculosis 395Tukuyu 308-9Tumbatu 105Tumbe 123-4Tunduru 314turtles 359, see also

hawksbill turtlesMisali 119Mnemba Island 106 Nungwi 101, 103Ras Kutani 74 Songo Songo 331

TV 372typhoid 395

UUdzungwa Mountains

National Park 288-91Ujiji 271Ukerewe Island 256-7Uluguru Mountains 286Umbwe Route 233Unesco World Heritage

Sites 362Usambara Mountains 141-8Usangi 151

Vvacations 376vaccinations 391vegetarian food 368vehicle safaris 30-32, 31vervet monkeys 207, 207visas 14, 378visual arts 358volcanoes

Empakaai Crater 187Mt Kilimanjaro 233Mt Rungwe 308Ol Doinyo Lengai 190Olmoti Crater 188

volunteering 378-9

Wwalking safaris 32-3, 38, 41

Arusha National Park 171Katavi National Park 278


Manyara Ranch Conservancy 175

Mkomazi National Park 152

Ruaha National Park 297Rubondo Island National

Park 257Selous Game Reserve

322Serengeti National Park

195-6Tarangire National Park

172-3walking tours 55, 55Wami River 130warthogs 215, 214water 397water parks 71waterbucks 211waterfalls 50

Kalambo Falls 277Luhuji Falls 301Maio Falls 168Sanje Falls 289

weather 14, 19-21, 371, see also individual locations

websites 15weights 372West Kilimanjaro 235-6western Tanzania 50,

263-80accommodation 263climate 263food 263highlights 264travel seasons 263

Wete 122-3, 123white-backed vuiltures

219, 218wild dogs 217, 217wildcats 152, 205, 286, 297,

322, 205wildebeest 211, 210-11

calving 19Lake Manyara National

Park 176migration 20, 197 Mikumi National Park 286Ngorongoro Crater 181-2

Serengeti National Park 191-2, 196, 197, 199


wildlife 16, 201-24, 359-60, see also individual species

arboreal primates 208-9, 208, 209

big cats 202-3, 202, 203birds of prey 218-19,

218, 219cud-chewing mammals

210-11, 210, 211ground primates 206,

206-7habitats 222-3, 222-3hoofed mammals

212-15, 212-15wildlife drives



Manyara Ranch Conservancy 175

Ruaha National Park 298Saadani National Park 130Selous Game Reserve

322, 325Serengeti National

Park 195 West Kilimanjaro 236

wildlife watching 21, 33, 152

wine 239women in Tanzania 356women travellers 379woodcarving 358work 379 World’s End Viewpoint 308

Yyellow fever 395yoga 101

ZZanzibar Archipelago 48,

75-125, 76accommodation 75climate 75

etiquette 88, 101food 75highlights 76history 76-7travel seasons 75

Zanzibar Butterfly Centre 99

Zanzibar Island 77-117, 78

Zanzibar Town 77-98, 82-3

accommodation 87-91activities 85-6courses 86dangers 96drinking 93-4entertainment 94food 91-3internet access 96medical services 96money 96nightlife 93-4papasi 97postal services 96shopping 94-6sights 77-85telephone services 96tourist information

96-7tours 86-7, 97travel agencies 97travel to/from 97-8travel within 98

zebras 212, 201, 212-13

Arusha National Park 167, 169

Biharamulo 258Katavi National Park 278Manyara Ranch

Conservancy 175Mikumi National Park

286-7Ngorongoro

Conservation Area 181-2



West Kilimanjaro 236

414

Walking Tour detourWalking Tour

Path/Walking Trail

BeachBird SanctuaryBuddhistCastle/PalaceChristianConfucianHinduIslamicJainJewishMonumentMuseum/Gallery/Historic BuildingRuin

Sento Hot Baths/Onsen

ShintoSikhTaoistWinery/VineyardZoo/Wildlife SanctuaryOther Sight

DivingBodysurfing

Sleeping

Eating

Entertainment

Shopping

Drinking & NightlifeCafe

BankEmbassy/ConsulateHospital/MedicalInternetPolicePost OfficeTelephoneToiletTourist InformationOther Information

AirportBorder crossingBus

CyclingFerry

Underground station

MonorailParking

Metro station

Petrol stationSubway stationTaxiTrain station/RailwayTram

Other Transport

LighthouseHut/Shelter

Beach

LookoutMountain/VolcanoOasisParkPassPicnic AreaWaterfall

River, CreekIntermittent River

Swamp/Mangrove

Reef

Canal

Water

Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake

Glacier

Mudflat

Beach/Desert

Airport/Runway

Cemetery (Christian)

Cemetery (Other)

Park/Forest

Sportsground

Sight (Building)

International

DisputedRegional/SuburbMarine ParkCliffWall

Capital (National)Capital (State/Province)City/Large TownTown/Village

State/Province

CampingHut/Shelter

Canoeing/KayakingCourse/Tour

SkiingSnorkellingSurfingSwimming/PoolWalkingWindsurfingOther Activity

LaneTertiary

TollwayFreewayPrimary

StepsPlaza/Mall

Pedestrian overpass

Secondary

Unsealed roadRoad under construction

Tunnel

Cable car/Funicular

Gate

Sights

Activities,Courses & Tours

Sleeping

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Entertainment

Shopping

Information Routes

Boundaries

Hydrography

Areas

Geographic

Population

Transport

Note: Not all symbols displayed above appear on the maps in this book

Map Legend


Anthony HamNorthern Tanzania Anthony is a freelance writer and photographer who special-ises in Spain, East and Southern Africa, the Arctic and the Middle East. In 2001, after years of wandering the world, Anthony finally found his spiritual home when he fell irretrievably in love with Madrid on his first visit to the city. Less than a year later, he arrived there on a one-way ticket, with not a word of Spanish and not knowing a single person in the city. When he finally left Madrid 10 years later,

Anthony spoke Spanish with a Madrid accent, was married to a local and Madrid had become his second home. Now back in Australia, Anthony continues to travel the world in search of stories.

Helena SmithCentral Tanzania, Southern Highlands Helena is an award-winning writer and photographer covering travel, outdoors and food – she has written guidebooks on destinations from Fiji to northern Norway. Helena is from Scotland but was partly brought up in Malawi, so Africa always feels like home. She also enjoys global travel in her multicultural home area of Hackney and wrote, photographed and published Inside Hackney, the first guide to the borough. Her 1000-word

autobiography won Vogue’s annual writing contest and she’s a winner of the Independent on Sunday’s travel writing competition. As well as working as a guidebook author, Helena is a travel and portrait photographer. She was senior photographer at the Edinburgh Film Festival, where she worked for three consecutive years, and has exhibited her work at Rich Mix and Floradita.


OUR STORYA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.

Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Dublin, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.

Published by Lonely Planet Global LimitedCRN 5541537th edition – Jun 2018ISBN 978 1 78657 562 3© Lonely Planet 2018 Photographs © as indicated 201810 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1Printed in SingaporeAll rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.

Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasona-ble care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.

OUR WRITERSMary FitzpatrickCurator, Dar es Salaam, Northeastern Tanzania, Southeastern Tanzania Origi-nally from the USA, Mary spent her early years dreaming of how to get across an ocean or two to more exotic locales. Following graduate studies, she set off for Europe. Her fascination with languages and cultures soon led her further south to Africa, where she has spent the past two decades living and working as a pro-fessional travel writer all around the continent. She focuses particularly on East

and Southern Africa, including Mozambique and Tanzania. Mary has authored and co-authored many guidebooks for Lonely Planet, including Mozambique; Tanzania; South Africa, Lesotho & Swaziland; East Africa; West Africa; and Egypt. Mary also wrote the Plan, Understand and Survival Guide chapters for this book.

Ray BartlettWestern Tanzania, Lake Victoria Ray has been travel writing for nearly two decades, bringing Japan, Korea, Mexico, and many parts of the United States to life in rich detail for top-industry publishers, newspapers and magazines. His acclaimed debut novel, Sunsets of Tulum, set in Yucatán, was a Midwest Book Review 2016 Fiction pick. Among other pursuits, he surfs regularly and is an ac-complished Argentine tango dancer. Follow him on Facebook, Twitter, Instagram,

or contact him for questions via www.kaisora.com, his website. Ray currently divides his time be-tween homes in the USA, Japan and Mexico.

David ElseZanzibar Archipelago David is a professional freelance writer specialising in trav-el, trekking, cycling, walking and outdoor adventure activities. Since the 1980s he’s been writing guidebooks for Lonely Planet and other publishers, plus a wide range of travel topics for magazines, newspapers and websites. In three dec-ades of covering Africa, David wrote many Lonely Planet guidebooks including West Africa and Southern Africa and detailed guides such as Malawi, Zambia,

Gambia & Senegal and Trekking in East Africa. He now lives in the UK, where he’s worked on local LP titles including several editions of guides to Great Britain and England. Beyond guidebooks, David writes regular articles for lonelyplanet.com. His words and photos have also appeared in the travel section of The Independent newspaper, Travel Africa magazine, Cycling Weekly magazine and Lonely Planet magazine. David continues to travel widely – by train, plane, car, bike or on foot. Recent trips have taken him from France and Spain to Mexico and Morocco, via the ice-cold thrills of Greenland and the epic landscapes of India.

OVERPAGE

MORE WRITERS


© Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’

Tanzania 7 - Preview (Chapter) - Lonely Planet › shop › pdfs › tanzania-7-preview.pdf ·...

Documents

Transcript of Tanzania 7 - Preview (Chapter) - Lonely Planet › shop › pdfs › tanzania-7-preview.pdf ·...