1. Belen Morenoof presentsTalkingVisit us at http://www.lcfmaison.com

2. A quintessentially French printed fabric born of art and technology in the 1700s.The designs resemble finely engraved etchings and use one colour on a solidground, usually with a narrative element such as pastoral scenes or classical mythology. At first monochromatic in reds and blues, later multicolored astechnology advanced. Toiles were also popular during the Colonial Era in the United States and are highly associated with preservationist towns and historicalareas, such as Colonial Williamsburg. When Williamsburg saw a repopularization in the 1930s, so did toiles, as they did again in the 1970s in celebration of the UnitedStates Bicentennial.First created via copperplate printing in 1752 in Ireland,made famous in France by Christophe Oberkampf 30 years laterHugely successful French export in the 1800s conquering more land than Napoleon Blended ideas and motifs in a poetic visual dialogue: floral or chinoiserie styles, political subjects, genre scenes, mythological tales, fables, and popular literature were often depicted The wealthy sophistiques, led by Marie Antoinette, longed for simple romanticcountry life, thus the demand for idyllic pastoral scenes. Huet started the trend ofdressing courtly ladies in peasant costumes and placing them in his designs as wenches pursuing rural pleasures. 3. excerpted from the article, Toile Past and Present by Amy Azzarito for Dcor du Jour THE BAN ON COTTON When cotton was first imported from India to France in the 16th and 17th century, the light, colorful, and easily washable fabric was an instant success. It was used for clothing , wall coverings, curtains and bedclothes. It was so much in demand, that the French government became concerned about the financial impact this competition would have on French manufactures of silk, wool and cloth. So in 1686, all cotton was banned in France production, importation and use. Even with the threat of arrest, the fashion continued clandestinely. Finally in 1759, when the ban proved impossible to enforce, it was lifted and French factories sprung up to satisfy the demand for printed cotton. The leading factory was that of Christophe Oberkampf, in Jouy en Josas, just outside of Versailles. 4. excerpted from the article, Toile Past and Present by Amy Azzarito for Dcor du Jour March 2013 marks the 253rd anniversary of the founding of Oberkampf factory at Jouy-en-Josas in 1760.Christophe-Philippe Oberkampf - founder of the printed cottonmanufacture in Jouy-en-Josas, Francealso invented the first machine for printing wallpaper in 1785Rue Oberkampf in the 11th arrondissement of Paris is named forChristophe-Philippe.Christophe-Philippe Oberkampf (11 June 1738 6 October 1815) was aFrench naturalized German industrialist, born in Weisenbach,[Germany, intoa family of cloth dyers. As a child, Christophe-Philippe accompanied hisfather on dyeing jobs. He initially worked for Koechlin- Schmaltzer et Cie inMulhouse, Alsace as an engraver, then from October 1758 at the age of20, in Paris as a colorist.In Paris, Christophe-Philippe rose quickly through the ranks. After just asingle year working in Paris, he formed a partnership with his formeremployer, who had advance warning that the cotton ban was about to belifted and recognized the importance of Christophe-Philippes expertise the two men decided to manufacture printed cotton.By 1805, the factory employed 1,322 workers. In total, more than 30, 000designs were created at the Jouy manufacture, many of them the work ofrenowned 18th-century artists such as Fragonard and Boucher.While the phrase toile de jouy literally translates as cloth from jouy, it hascome to refer to the single-color print of a pastoral scene (usually) on awhite ground 5. excerpted from the article, Toile Past and Present by Amy Azzarito for Dcor du JourCopperplate Technology = Toile de JouyCotton arrived at Jouy spun and woven. Canvas or twill weave were the onesused at the factory. Siamoise, mixing cotton and linen thread was also used.Finished cloths measured 21 meters long by a meter wide.The early printed cotton( first 10 years) was hand produced using wood blockprinting, requiring separate engraved blocks to print each color on designatedareas. Smaller areas of color were often "pencilled" or hand-painted onto thetextiles. In the 1770s the factory began to incorporate copperplate printingand later copper cylinder printing, Increasing output to 5k meters daily. Thesenew techniques allowed for designs with larger and finer repeat patternsalthough only in a single color. Increased production, and lower fabricationcost were other important benefits of these technologies In 1770 when copperplate printing began at Jouy the technique had been used in England and Ireland for a number of years, but Oberkampf was thefirst cotton manufacturer to bring copperplate printing technology into France. Copperplate Printing - From the late 18th century, this form of printing took over from Block Printing. In this method the design was engraved on a flatcopper plate which was rubbed with print dye. The dye is then wiped from thesurface having been left in the incised lines of the engraving. Cloth was laid over this plate and pressure exerted by mechanical means to transfer thedesign. The presses were quite large and allowed printing of large scaledesigns- usually a square meter which was the size of the copper plate. Because the lines on the engraved copperplates are finer than on woodblocks, one was able to introduce the effects of light and shade, with the useof hatching. The copperplates also allowed for a larger repeating pattern. This opened up the possibility for designs no longer limited to florals orgeometrics Oberkampf commissioned the best artists to design pastoral scenes with human figures. This new style allowed for the fabric to portray major events of the time period such as the first balloon flight or thefascination with Napoleons discoveries on his campaigns in Egypt.Other Toiles depicted LaFontaines Fables, popular 18th centurynovels, mythological and contemporary or historical events of significance 6. excerpted from the article, Toile Past and Present by Amy Azzarito for Dcor du Jour Toile de Jouy Process1.the undyed cotton is washed in the Bievre River2. It is beaten with sticks to remove its primerIt is dried in the fields, then passes to the oven to smooth the textureBeforehand the motifs are printed on engraved wood blocks ( technique inuse since 5th century) and after 1770 on copper plates(3). After printing the fabric is soaked in a bath of cow dung to eliminateexcess thickener(4) Washed in the Bievre RiverThe toiles proceed to a madder root dye bath that reveals the colors on onlythe parts of the cloth that have been previously soaked in mordants( bindersubstance made of aluminum salts mixed with gum, fabric is soaked in tomake it absorb dye )Iron based mordant = purpler tints, aluminum mordant: pinks and redsReds, pinks, violets, blacks and sepia are obtained with the madderroot, indigo and cucuma for blues, saffron for yellowsThe background is exposed to the sun for days to dry and bleach(5Yellows and Blues are printed directly on the cloth Green is achieved bymixing yellow and blue until 1808.After paintstaking finishing touches by fine paint brushes, certain piecesreceive a starch and wax primer, applied to the cloth before it passes to a hotgrill la calandre chaud.To smooth and polish the pieces, an agate or crystal stone is used, fixed tothe end of a wooden arm of sorts le lissoir (7).Stamped with the factory mark, or chef de piece, they were thenReady to be sold En 1797, the scottish invented copper rollerplate printing isimplemented, increasing production considerably from 30 to to 5000 metersa day. 7. 1st Row2nd Row3rd Row4th Row5th Row 8. excerpted from the book, Toiles for All Seasons by Starr SiegeleDuring the years from 1783 to 1811 Oberkampf commissioned the French painter Jean Baptiste Huet to design the prints for his new fabrics. He created about 32 designs in total. The first design for a printedtextile that artist Huet drew for Oberkampf, Les Travaux de la Manufacture, The Factory in Operationwas created to commemorate Louis XVI and Marie Antoinettes visit to Jouy en Josas, in 1783. Followingtheir tour, Oberkampf was awarded the honor of stamping all of his fabric " ManufactureRoyale", granting Oberkampf the privilege of patent protection from Versailles. This design also shows uswho worked at the famous Toile de Jouy factory, and how they worked, using woodblock andcopperplate printing to create the Toiles.First Row left to right:a building in the factory complex; Workers beating bundles of wet, undyed cotton at the edge of ariver, that have been soaked on a floating raft; Woodblock printing by hand with a color boy assistingA dye artist preparing the dyeSecond RowThe dung bath used to remove excess mordants and unabsorbed dyes; A copperplate press printing afabric marked with the arms of the King and Manuf. Royale de SD ,Oberkampf, and his lawyer, Sarrasin deMaraise ; Work Bell; The Village of Jouy en Josas with its church, and textiles bleaching in the fieldsThird RowThe Lissoir, or glazing press, used to finish the printed cloths;The calendaring press, a blend of starch andwax was applied to the printed cloth, which was then passed through rollers that thinned and smoothedit. Next it was polished to a glossy finish with agate stone;The retouchers, or pencillors, supervised by theengraver, Ulrich Bossert, are applying indigo where blues are needed and correcting areas of flawedprintingFourth Row from CenterHuet supervised by the designer and plant overseer, Ludwig Rordorf;Oberkampf and his little son, greetingfactory workers ;Rinsing fabric in the Bievre RiverFifth Row:Jouanon, Peigne flower painter and designer, working at her drawing board with Versailles in thebackground; Laying out printed cotton to bleach in the sun in front of the drying house (the cloth wasspread pattern-side down and sprinkled with water six to eight times a day for six days.)]The boiling dye bath with its furnaces. The root of the madder plant produced shades of red that rangedfrom browns to pinks to purples and even black. The weld plant produced yellow and olive tints. Braquerie by Pierre Frey still reproduces this design today.Visit us at http://www.lcfmaison.com 9. The above toile, designed by Huet for Oberkampf, refers to the Treaty ofAlliance (1778). America alligns itself with France and the union is blessed by the goddess of freedom - a very symbolic theme just ten years before theFrench revolution. On the far left a black man waves the human rights declaration as an Englishman exits. From Printed French Fabrics: Toiles De Jouy , by Josette Brdif 10. Original Factory Stamp 11. The above toile : Les monuments dgypte, ca. 1808Manufacture de Jouy Designer: Jean-Baptiste Huet (French, 17451811), after a drawing by Louis-Franois Cassas (French, 17561827) Roller-printed cotton Due to interest in Egyptian civilization stimulated by Bonapartes expedition, Huet designed this pattern, in maroon on white cotton. Alternating scenes of Alexandrias harbor with the Maison Consulaire de France, the obelisk of Cleopatrawith the ruins of the library, the obelisk de la Mathare with the Nile, interpretations ofother temples and sculpture are interspersed with figures and camels, against a latticedground punctuated by stylized lotus flowers. The motifs (printed in reverse) are derivedfrom eight engravings after drawings by the painter and traveler Louis-Franois Cassas. 12. Alternate Toile Patterned Genres:Mignonettes ( miniature) simple geometric motifs Small dense printed patterns, in a narrow range of colors, infinitely variable, highly popular from the start Visit us athttp://www.lcfmaison.com 13. Alternate Toile Patterned Genres:Indiennes: many colored flowers based on the stylized exotic flowers found in Indian ArtVisit us at http://www.lcfmaison.com 14. Floral Prints were used for dressmaking Visit us athttp://www.lcfmaison.com 15. Queen Marie Antoinette, as depicted in Sofia Coppolas filmFloral Prints were used for dressmakingVisit us at http://www.lcfmaison.com 16. Figural prints forinterior furnishings and Visit us atdecorhttp://www.lcfmaison.com 17. Figural prints forinterior furnishings anddecor Visit us athttp://www.lcfmaison.com 18. Visit us athttp://www.lcfmaison.com 19. Visit us athttp://www.lcfmaison.com 20. Toiles of TodayToile des Septanteschez Pierre Frey 2012 Left, Jea n Ulrich, Right Manuel Canovas Visit us athttp://www.lcfmaison.com 21. Toiles of Today Punk Rock Toile Above Embroidered Punk Rock Toile Left, Tie Dye Toile Plates, Visit us athttp://www.lcfmaison.com 22. Toiles of Today Sheila Bridges Harlem Toile de Jouy line Ms. Bridges intertwines artistry and history in a fun, yet thought-provoking way. Bridges, who was named Americas Best InteriorDesigner by both CNN and Time Magazine, designed the wallpaper to remind people of the many stereotypes that have historically been and continue to be associated with AfricanAmericans living in rural parts of the country as well as urban parts of the country like Harlem Visit us athttp://www.lcfmaison.com 23. Artist Emily ForgotArtist Jean Claude BrassetVisit us athttp://www.lcfmaison.com 24. This 3D toile de jouy "wallpaper" created by ceramicist Beth Katleman. Entitled "Folly," consists of hand-done porcelain sculptures of, "elves and Barbies in lieu of frolickingaristocrats."Visit us athttp://www.lcfmaison.com 25. Visit us athttp://www.lcfmaison.com