36 ESCAPE SUNDAY JUNE 14 2015 ESCAPE.COM.AU

TELE01Z01ES - V1

INDIA

THE gooey silt oozes upthrough my toes and engulfs my entire foot. I

make another laboured stride into the chocolatey fluid, then another until I am waist deep in the water with mud almost to my knees. I pinch my nose hard, fold my lips inside my mouth, biting down hard on the gums while I close my eyes in terror.

“You must immerse yourselffully three times,” Nemo, our guide reminds me from the safety of the country boat, “or else you will not be cleansed of your sins.” Three times seems a cheap price for my litany of misdeeds, so under I go.

Here on the banks of the Hooghly River at Mayapur, we’re not consumed by any of the legendary crushes of humanity like that which occurs during the Kumbh Mela festival when millions of Hindu pilgrims descend into these holy waters

in search of salvation at such famous locations as Haridwar and Varanasi.

Instead it’s just another guestand myself, a plucky Brit named Susan, who have taken the plunge on this relatively deserted stretch of river, which would be like any other desolate stretch of the waterway were it not for the preposterously huge Hare Krishna temple still under

construction a few hundred metres away. “I shall have to settle for three, otherwise we’ll be here until tea time,” Susan calls out obviously pondering a similar charge sheet, her posh Oxbridge accent disguising whatI now learn must be a deliciously scandalous past.

The curiously named Hooghly River is a 260km distributary of the mighty

Ganges flowing directly south from the main stream through West Bengal to Kolkata and into the Bay of Bengal. Just like “Mother Ganga” herself, the Hooghly carries the same holy water, along with everything elsefrom industrial waste and agricultural toxins to raw sewage, human remains and domestic trash.

“We worship and venerate

her (the river) but also desecrate her in so many ways,” Nemo (real name Nirmalya Choudhury) reminds us as we tiptoe back into the boat, cleansed of some of our sins – and the river’s sticky residue.

West Bengal, with Kolkata asits capital, is a state in the east of India sharing borders with Bangladesh, Nepal and Bhutan. Rich in history, culture and

architecture, our transport is the spanking new RV Rajmahal, the perfect vessel with which to undertake such an exploration.

The locally built 50m riverboat is designed expressly for conditions on these rivers and has just 22 cabins, each with private facilities and french windows. The twin and double cabins offer 19sq m, while the four dedicated single cabins are still a respectable 16sq m. The ample lounge at the rear on the upper (mid) deck is fitted out in locally built furniture.

Dining is on the bottom (main) deck in an airconditioned space. Along the centre is a bench with hot trays of expertly prepared Bengali, Assamese, Indian and Western dishes. Salads and greens feature prominently and traditional sweets like gulab jamun and

The Hooghly River holds a venerated position for Hindus in search of salvation. Rod Eime wades in to check it out

Taking the Hooghly plunge

HUGE SAVINGS ON UNIQUE BURMA RIVER CRUISING

SAVE UP TO $1,000pp*

authentic asia: burma

*Prices are per person in AUD, based on lowest available twin share accommodation (Main Deck), inclusive of all savings. Prices are valid for sale until 19 June, unless sold out prior. Prices shown are based on the departure dates as stated in the advertising. Package price includes return Economy Class international airfare from Sydney, Melbourne, Brisbane or Perth including air taxes, cruise aboard Cruiseco Explorer with port charges and onboard gratuities, pre and post cruise hotel stays and all transfers as per selected itinerary. Offers are capacity controlled and can be withdrawn at any time without notice. Flights and land accommodation for departures within 60 days are subject to availability. Travel insurance is mandatory and is at an additional cost. Single supplements apply. Prices are subject to change due to fl uctuations in charges, taxes and currency. Subject to availability at time of booking. Cost does not include any additional accommodation or transfers made necessary due to fl ight schedules however this is available at additional cost. Cancellation fees and conditions apply. For full terms and conditions please refer to the Authentic Asia Burma 2015/2017 brochure available online at www.cruising.com.au or at your local Cruiseco Travel Agent. Qantas Frequent Flyer members receive 1 Qantas Point for every $1.50 spent on Cruiseco holidays. Points are not awarded on port charges, government fees, onboard gratuities and air taxes. Qantas Frequent Flyer complimentary membership is non transferable and not available with any other offer. To be eligible you must have made fi nal payment on your package arrangements. Offer may be withdrawn at any time.

*P i i AUD b d l il bl i h d i (M i D k) i l i f ll i P i lid f l il 19 J l ld i P i h b d h d d d i h d i i P k i i l d E Cl i i l i f f S d M lb B i b P h i l di i i b d C i E l i h

CONTACT YOUR SPECIALIST TODAY

MANDALAY

SALAY

YANGON

MAGWE

THAYETMYO

PROME (PYAY)

YANDABOBAGAN

MANDALAY AMARAPURA

TAGAUNG

SHWEGUKATHA

KYAUK MYAUNG

MONYWA

TAN KYI

MINGUNAVA

SALAY

YANGON

MAGWE

THAYETMYO

PROME (PYAY)

YANDABOBAGAN

BURMA

27 Sep 2015 WAS $5,099*pp NOW from $4,499*pp4 Oct & 11 Oct 2015 WAS $5,099*pp NOW from $4,999*pp

Departures between 18 Oct - 29 Nov 2015 from $5,399*pp

17 night luxury holiday 31 Aug 2015 and 13 Sep 2015

11 night luxury holiday

• Return Economy Class airfare from Australia*

• 7 night luxury river cruise aboard Cruiseco Explorer including all meals & select drinks

• 2 nights at the Mandalay Hill Resort in Mandalay

• 2 nights at the Chatrium Hotel in Yangon• Sightseeing, onboard gratuities and

transfers

EXTENDED ITINERARY:Explore Burma further during this in-depth river cruise with additional highlights including Katha famed by George Orwell’s novel Burmese Days, the majestic second defi le, and the Shwebadaung Caves on the Chindwin River.

• Return Economy Class airfare from Australia*• 14 night unique luxury river cruise aboard

Cruiseco Explorer• Most meals & beverages included• 1 night at the Mandalay Hill Resort in Mandalay• 2 nights at the Chatrium Hotel in Yangon• Sightseeing, onboard gratuities and transfers

WAS $6,999*pp

from $5,999*ppNOW

NSW METROPOLITAN ACT NSWNEW SOUTH WALES CruiseManagers1300 736 850

CAMMERAY Cammeray Cruise Centre(02) 9922 5100CHERRYBROOK Atour Travel Service(02) 9875 2400

NORTH RYDE Cruisescene1800 678 555RAMSGATE Ramsgate Travel Service(02) 9529 3444

CANBERRA REGION Southlands Travel and Cruise(02) 6286 5540

SYDNEY Wynyard Travel(02) 8224 5666SYLVANIA SOUTHGATE Sylvania Travel & Cruise(02) 9544 6544

ESCAPE.COM.AU SUNDAY JUNE 14 2015 ESCAPE 37

V1 - TELE01Z01ES

of lemon or lime, honey or raw sugar and even a sprinkle of cinnamon or grated nutmeg are cheerfully administered.

Nemo often stops by and weseldom let him go without some inquisition about our most recent excursion. We tap his encyclopedic knowledge of Hindu beliefs, history or Bengali culture and it is this abundant enrichment accompanying our voyage that allows us to be fully immersed in every experience.

Observation without interpretation is just wasted opportunity.

With so much intellectual fodder to consume, it would be wise to swot up on at least some history of the region so when visiting such sprawling attractions as the Hazarduari Palace in Murshidabad, one isn’t left to feel like a bewildered

dunce when the chronology of the British Raj is described.

After miles of rural landscapes dotted with rudimentary villages, interspersed with occasional temples and ancient forts, the 114-room Hazarduari Palace is like stumbling across Westminster. Completed in 1837, the name means place of one thousand doors, and it was here that many high-ranking British officials lived and where lavish

functions were held. It is a bit painful to see century-old paintings and artwork open to the air and humidity even though since 1985, the site has been under the protection of the Archaeological Survey of India.

But even the Victorian grandeur of Hazarduari is overshadowed by the immensity of the Mayapur Chandrodaya Mandir, Temple of the Vedic Planetarium or more simply, the ToVP. This shrine is the vision of Hare Krishna founder, Srila Prabhupada to “attract people from all over the world to the holy dhama and ultimately to the lotus feet of Sri Caitanya Mahaprabhu”. Donations to its building are encouraged by purchasing golden bricks (for $1600) or golden tiles ($1000). How big? St Peter’s Basilica big.

The bell rings and we file infor another delicious dinner. Buoyed by my cleansing ablutions in the holy river, my tastebuds are excited by the aroma of fragrant rice wafting through the dining room. I look around for my fellow devotee, but Susan’s chair is empty and when I inquire of her companions, they just shake their heads despondently. Susan, it would seem, still has some sins to purge.

The writer was a guest of Active Travel, Assam Bengal Navigation, Taj Hotels and India Tourism.

fresh fruit are a given. Chef often conducts cooking classes during a quiet afternoon and on this occasion we learnt the art of the humble chicken curry.

We cruise leisurely betweensuch delightfully named ports as Hazarduari, Jangipur, Khushbagh and Murshidabad, alighting when the moment takes us to wander among the locals and visit the splendid temples and remnants of the vast British colonial institution that held sway over these parts for some 250 years.

In between stops, we retire tothe full-length, shaded sun deck for tea. Served to us quite properly in steaming pots and ornate crockery, the stewards seem to take unusual pleasure in delivering our afternoon refreshments no matter how convoluted our requests. Twists

SACRED WATERS: Devout Hindus bathe in the Hooghly River, a tributary of the Ganges; the RV Rajmahal; flowers prepared for market near Farakka; and a newly married couple on the steps by the river. Pictures: Alamy

GETTING THEREAir India flies daily direct between Delhi and both Sydney and Melbourne. Connecting flights daily to Kolkata.See airindia.in

STAYING THEREThe Taj Bengal has 229 roomsand suites in the affluent Kolkata district of Alipore.tajhotels.com

DOING THEREActive Travel has a wide range of Indian river cruises, including the RV Rajmahal on the Hooghly and Ganges rivers. The eight-day Historic Hooghly travels between Kolkata and Farakka with

fares from $939 a person, twin share. 1300 783 188 activetravel.com.au

FAST FACTS● The Battle of Plassey took place on June 23 , 1757, about 150km north of Kolkata and was considered to be the pivotal victory that established British rule in India for the next 200 years.● The so-called Black Hole of Calcutta was a tiny prison cell in the old Fort William where surrendered soldiers and some civilians, mainly British, were locked after the fall of the city in 1756. It is claimed 123 of 146 perished overnight through suffocation.● Civilisations have lived along the Ganges River and its distributaries for 4000 years.

GO2INDIAarchitecture, our transport is the

spanking new RV Rajmahal, the perfect vessel with which to undertake such an exploration.

The locally built 50m riverboat is designed expressly for conditions on these rivers and has just 22 cabins, each with private facilities and french windows. The twin and double cabins offer 19sq m, while the four dedicated single cabins are still a respectable 16sq m. The ample lounge at the rear on the upper (mid) deck is fitted out in locally built furniture.

Dining is on the bottom (main) deck in an airconditioned space. Along the centre is a bench with hot trays of expertly prepared Bengali, Assamese, Indian and Western dishes. Salads and greens feature prominently and traditional sweets like gulab jamun and

HUGE SAVINGS ON UNIQUE BURMA RIVER CRUISING

SAVE UP TO $1,000pp*

authentic asia: burma

*Prices are per person in AUD, based on lowest available twin share accommodation (Main Deck), inclusive of all savings. Prices are valid for sale until 19 June, unless sold out prior. Prices shown are based on the departure dates as stated in the advertising. Package price includes return Economy Class international airfare from Sydney, Melbourne, Brisbane or Perth including air taxes, cruise aboard Cruiseco Explorer with port charges and onboard gratuities, pre and post cruise hotel stays and all transfers as per selected itinerary. Offers are capacity controlled and can be withdrawn at any time without notice. Flights and land accommodation for departures within 60 days are subject to availability. Travel insurance is mandatory and is at an additional cost. Single supplements apply. Prices are subject to change due to fl uctuations in charges, taxes and currency. Subject to availability at time of booking. Cost does not include any additional accommodation or transfers made necessary due to fl ight schedules however this is available at additional cost. Cancellation fees and conditions apply. For full terms and conditions please refer to the Authentic Asia Burma 2015/2017 brochure available online at www.cruising.com.au or at your local Cruiseco Travel Agent. Qantas Frequent Flyer members receive 1 Qantas Point for every $1.50 spent on Cruiseco holidays. Points are not awarded on port charges, government fees, onboard gratuities and air taxes. Qantas Frequent Flyer complimentary membership is non transferable and not available with any other offer. To be eligible you must have made fi nal payment on your package arrangements. Offer may be withdrawn at any time.

*P i i AUD b d l il bl i h d i (M i D k) i l i f ll i P i lid f l il 19 J l ld i P i h b d h d d d i h d i i P k i i l d E Cl i i l i f f S d M lb B i b P h i l di i i b d C i E l i h

CONTACT YOUR SPECIALIST TODAY

MANDALAY

SALAY

YANGON

MAGWE

THAYETMYO

PROME (PYAY)

YANDABOBAGAN

MANDALAY AMARAPURA

TAGAUNG

SHWEGUKATHA

KYAUK MYAUNG

MONYWA

TAN KYI

MINGUNAVA

SALAY

YANGON

MAGWE

THAYETMYO

PROME (PYAY)

YANDABOBAGAN

BURMA

27 Sep 2015 WAS $5,099*pp NOW from $4,499*pp4 Oct & 11 Oct 2015 WAS $5,099*pp NOW from $4,999*pp

Departures between 18 Oct - 29 Nov 2015 from $5,399*pp

17 night luxury holiday 31 Aug 2015 and 13 Sep 2015

11 night luxury holiday

• Return Economy Class airfare from Australia*

• 7 night luxury river cruise aboard Cruiseco Explorer including all meals & select drinks

• 2 nights at the Mandalay Hill Resort in Mandalay

• 2 nights at the Chatrium Hotel in Yangon• Sightseeing, onboard gratuities and

transfers

EXTENDED ITINERARY:Explore Burma further during this in-depth river cruise with additional highlights including Katha famed by George Orwell’s novel Burmese Days, the majestic second defi le, and the Shwebadaung Caves on the Chindwin River.

• Return Economy Class airfare from Australia*• 14 night unique luxury river cruise aboard

Cruiseco Explorer• Most meals & beverages included• 1 night at the Mandalay Hill Resort in Mandalay• 2 nights at the Chatrium Hotel in Yangon• Sightseeing, onboard gratuities and transfers

WAS $6,999*pp

from $5,999*ppNOW

NSW METROPOLITAN ACT NSWNEW SOUTH WALES CruiseManagers1300 736 850

CAMMERAY Cammeray Cruise Centre(02) 9922 5100CHERRYBROOK Atour Travel Service(02) 9875 2400

NORTH RYDE Cruisescene1800 678 555RAMSGATE Ramsgate Travel Service(02) 9529 3444

CANBERRA REGION Southlands Travel and Cruise(02) 6286 5540

SYDNEY Wynyard Travel(02) 8224 5666SYLVANIA SOUTHGATE Sylvania Travel & Cruise(02) 9544 6544

.com.au.com.au