Table Saw - JoineryWood joinery is one of the most rewardingparts of any woodworking project. Rangingfrom simple, attractive miter and bevel jointsto the more complicated lock corner andfinger joints, this tip will cover the woodjoinery that can be done on the Mark V in thetable saw mode.

MITER CUTSBoth miter and bevel cuts are made with thestock held at an angle (other than 90) to thesaw blade. For instance, anytime you changethe miter gauge from its normal 90 position,you will be sawing a miter. Some examples ofmiter cuts used to form four-, six-, and eight-sided figures are illustrated in Figure 3-1. Thecut pieces, joined to make forms, are calledsegments.

It is important to remember that a miter cutangle is always one-half of the joint angle. Thejoint angle in a four-sided picture frame is 90,but the cut angle is 45. Use the followingformula to determine the correct miter gaugesetting for a project with any number ofsegments: Divide 360 by the number of sides and then divide the answer by 2. To apply this formula toan octagon, for example, divide 360 by 8; then divide the answer, 45, by 2. This will yield 22-1/2,which would be the correct setting for the miter gauge.

To make any miter cut, set the miter gauge at the desired angle, and secure the lock knob.Warning: Place the miter gauge in one of the slots so that the face of the gauge is angled toward theblade. If you mount the miter gauge so the face is angled away from the blade, the wood may bind andkickback.

Note: Since most miter cuts are made at 45, the miter gauge has positive stops to help you quicklyadjust the gauge to 45 left or 45 right. However, it's wise to check critical setups with a drafting tri-angle or combination square.

Mark the workpiece where you want to cut it. (It's best to measure from the inside corners of the miter.)Align the workpiece with the saw blade and clamp it securely with the miter gauge safety grip.

From this point on, the procedure is similar to crosscutting. Make a five-point check. All five locks-power plant, carriage, table height, table tilt, and quill-should be secure. Turn the machine on, set theproper speed and let the machine come up to speed. Push the workpiece slowly past the blade (Figure 3-

Figure 3-1. Some examples of how miter cuts canbe used to form four-, six- and eight-sided projects.

2). When the cut is finished, turn the machine off and let the bladecome to a complete stop before removing the workpiece or scraps.

Miter sawing is no more difficult than straight crosscutting but accu-racy is most critical. An error of 10 doesn't sound like much, but whenit's repeated on even just four parts, it adds up to frustration at assem-bly time. Make it a habit to test machine settings on scrap stock. Sawthe good material only when you are sure the setting is perfect. Guardagainst drift which is the tendency of the blade's rotation to pull theworkpiece-perhaps just enough to spoil a perfect cut. A fence exten-sion that is faced with sandpaper helps keep the workpiece in place(Figure 3-3). Hold the workpiece securely; use the miter gauge safetygrip.

Here are some things that will cause inaccurate miter joints: Improper alignment of the machine. Dull saw blade or incorrectly set teeth. Stock warped or otherwise imperfect to beginwith. Stock allowed to drift. Pass made too fast.

Mitered segments must be perfectly matched insize and shape if they are to join together in aperfect union. Use this formula to determine thesegment length:

Frame width - rabbet width x 2 + picture length =frame length

Example for 8" long picture:2" - 3/8" = 1-5/8" x 2 = 3-1/4" + 8 = 11-1/4"

The miter gauge stop rod can be used asshown in Figure 3-4 to gauge the length ofthe segments. Square a piece of stock tothis length. Set the miter gauge to theangle needed, and miter both ends of thesegment. Then use it to set the miter gaugestop rod. Warning: Never position themiter gauge stop rod so that it crosses infront of the blade. Other segments are cutfrom one length of stock by mitering it atone end, then holding the mitered endagainst the stop rod. Be sure that you turnthe stock over for each new pass.

Figure 3-2. To make a miter cut,set the miter gauge at the desiredangle, then proceed as if youwere crosscutting.

Figure 3-4. The miter gauge stop rod can be used to gauge thelength of the segments.

Figure 3-3. A fence extension that is faced with sandpaperprovides a high friction surface that helps to keep theworkpiece in place as you are sawing.

A miter gauge extension with an adjustablestop can be used to cut miters on wide stock(Figure 3-5).

Miter Cuts with a FixtureCutting close, tight miters is much easierwhen you use a sliding table fixture (Figure3-6). The fixture is easy to make and is wellworth your time and effort, because a fixturethat is well built and set up accurately willenable you to cut perfect 45 miters everytime. The strips that slide in the miter gaugeslots are cut to fit from hardwood. Usescrews to secure the strips to the base;then cut a 12" long saw kerf into thefixture.

Miter one end of each hardwood fenceat 45. Use glue and screws to secureone of the fences into place at 45 tothe saw kerf. Once the glue on thisfence has dried, use an accurate squareto position the other one; secure itwith glue and screws. So that the stockwill have less tendency to drift whilebeing cut, attach fine grit sandpaperonto the fixture with rubber cement.

When using this fixture, always cutmatching miters. This is done bycutting the first corner of the stock onthe right side of the fixture and thesecond corner on the left side.

Remember that all fixtures, in addition to being carefully made, should be protected so they will maintainaccuracy. Carefully sand all parts before assembly. Use glue and screws to join components. After assem-bly, apply several coats of penetrating sealer with a light sanding between coats and another light sandingwhen the final coat is dry. Wax and buff those surfaces that make contact with the machine.

BEVEL CUTSBevel cuts are made with the worktable positioned at an angle other than 90 to the blade. Slide thecarriage and the power plant all the way to the right. This will allow you to move the workpiece freelyacross the table without interfering with the way tubes. The angle considerations that apply to miters alsoapply to cross miters and bevels (Figure 3-7). The cut angle is always one-half of the joint angle.

Crosscut BevelsTo make a crosscut bevel, set the worktable at the desired angle and use the miter gauge to guide theworkpiece (Figure 3-8). Mount the miter gauge on the downside of the table only. This will provide

Figure 3-5. (A) A miter gague extension with an adjustable stop can beused to cut miters on wide stock. (B) Construction details of the mitergauge extension.

Figure 3-8. Crosscut bevels are cut with the miter gauge at90-degrees and with the table tilted.

Figure 3-6. (A) The sliding table fixture can be used to make close,accurate miters with ease. (B) Construction details of the sliding tablefixture.

Figure 3-7. The relationship betweenthe joint angle and cut angle thatwas explained for simple miters alsoapplies to cross miters and bevels.

Figure 3-9. Rip bevels are made with the table tiltedand the workpiece usually riding against the rip fence.

better support for the workpiece, helpeliminate kickbacks, keep the miter gaugefrom hitting the blade, and keep yourhands out of danger.

Rip BevelsA rip bevel is made with the table tilted,the workpiece usually riding against therip fence (Figure 3-9). Warning: Mountthe rip fence on the downside of thetable to provide better support for theworkpiece, help eliminate kick-back,and keep your hands out of danger. Onthe Model 500 there will be times whenthe width of a workpiece will prevent youfrom using the rip fence. If this is the case,clamp a long, straight board to the under-side of the workpiece and rest this boardover the upper edge of the table (Figure3-10). If properly positioned, the boardwill guide the workpiece as accurately asa rip fence. If you have a Model 510, usethe rip fence and the extension tablesystem to support wide stock (Figure 3-11).

Small, cross beveled or rip beveled seg-ments are easy to assemble if you work as

Figure 3-11. When ripping a bevel in wide stock, use the rip fenceand the extension table system (Model 510) to support the stock.

Figure 3-12. Small segments can be assembled this way, using glueand a stapling gun. A band clamp or rubber bands can be used tohold the pieces until the glue dries.

Figure 3-10. To rip a bevel in a wide board, clamp a long,straight board to the underside of the workpiece. Hook thisboard over the upper edge of the table and use it as a guide.

Figure 3-13. Segments can beprecut with straight sides and thenbeveled like this. Cut one side, turnstock end-for-end, and cut secondside. The fence position is notchanged.

shown in Figure 3-12. Coat mating surfaces with glue and hold them tightly together as you drive staplesto serve as "clamps." Use a band clamp or rubber bands after the assembly is complete to hold the piecestogether until the glue is dry.

A convenient way to cut beveled segments is shown in Figure 3-13. First cut the segments to the lengthand width you need. Set the table to the correct tilt and the fence to control the width of cut. Cut thebevel on one edge of the stock and then, without changing the setting, turn the stock end-for-end andbevel the second edge.

V-CutsV-shapes are formed by opposing bevel cuts that do not go through the stock and which meet to form anangle. Work as shown in Figure 3-14 when the "V" must be down the center of the stock. Set the sawblade's projection to the depth of the