Table Saw Jigs

7/31/2019 Table Saw Jigs

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Ask seasoned woodworkers aboutthe benefits of stocking a shopwith a variety of hardworkingjigs. Theyll likely tell you that

some jigs get used again and again, whileothers gather dust. We guarantee thatthese eight jigs will be worth your invest-ment in time and materials.

Shop Tested

Tablesaw Jigs8

Thin-Strip Ripping Jigpage 2

Four-Sided Tapering Jigpage 4

Dead-On 90 Crosscut Sledpage 6

Raised-Panel Jigpage 8

Corner-Rabbeting Jigpage 12

Spline-Cutting Jigpage 14

For example, after you take an eve-ning or two to build the sled onpage 6,we predict that youll constantly usethe crosscut sled for repetitive cuts.The four-sided tapering jig and spline-cutting jig provide you with morespecialized techniques.

We constructed most of these shop

helpers from Baltic birch plywoodand hard maple. If you prefer, you cansubstitute medium-density fiberboard(MDF) for plywood and another densehardwood for maple. See Sources onpage 7 for help in buying the inexpen-sive hardware items youll need for thejigs in this plan.

Straight Edge Cutting Jigpage 15

Blade Rackpage 16

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tablesaw jigs

Thin-

StripRippingJigHeres a safety-minded jig that willmake you feel morecomfortable rippingtiny pieces.

Sometimes you need to rip several thinstrips of wood to equal thickness toserve as edging, veneer, or bendingstock. Slicing off thin stock on the

fence side of the blade, however, could proveunsafe. Thats because it becomes awkward touse your blade guard and pushstick when youcut close to the fence. The solution: Run thewide portion of your workpiece between the

fence and blade, cutting the strips on the side ofthe blade opposite the fence. You could accom-plish this by measuring for each cut, but thatstedious and inaccurate. This thin-strip rippingjig does the job safely, accurately, and quickly.

To make a cursor, scribe a line acrossthe acrylic indicator with a sharp knifeand a square. Color the scribed line witha permanent marker. Wipe off the excessink with a cloth, leaving a fine line.

Size your thin-strip ripping jig to suit yourtablesaw, so that a 1" screw in the guidebar can contact the blade. Install a zero-clearance throat plate to prevent thesawn strip from falling into the saw.

Remove the jig before making the cut sothe workpiece doesnt bind between therip fence and the screw head. Replace thejig in the slot without making any adjust-ments to set up the next cut.

A

Refer to Sources on page 7 for hard-ware for this project.

First, build the jig

1Cut a piece of " plywood to thedimensions shown for the base onpage 3. Cut a dado on the bottom side ofthe base for the guide bar, where shown.Now, cut the " dado on the top side of

the base for the sliding bar.

2Cut two pieces of maple to size forthe miter-slot guide bar (adjust thedimensions shown if necessary to fityour tablesaws slots) and the sliding

bar. Center the miter-slot guide bar inthe bottom dado, and glue it in place.Drill a pair of " holes in the slidingbar, where shown, scrollsaw the materi-al between them, and smooth the insideof the slot with a file.

3Set the jig in your tablesaws leftmiter-gauge slot. Place the sliding barin the dado with its left end flush with the

base. Slide the jig forward, and mark thepoint where a left-leaning sawblade toothtouches the bar. Make a second mark fi"closer to the base. Remove the bar, andcrosscut it at the second mark.

B C

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woodmagazine.com

4Drill a764" pilot hole in the sliding

bar, centered on the end you justcut. Drive a brass screw halfway intothe wood. (We used brass to avoid anychance of damaging a tablesaw blade.)Youll turn this screw in or out to fine-tune your jigs basic zero setting, or toadjust it for a blade of different thick-ness or with a different tooth set.

5From the bottom side of the assembly,

drill and countersink a " hole throughthe miter-slot guide bar and base forthe machine screw that holds the plas-tic knob. Sand all of the wood parts to180 grit, and apply three coats of clearfinish.

6Make a mark 1" from the left end ofthe sliding bar. Cut the first 1fi" froman inexpensive steel rule, align its left endwith the mark, and attach it with epoxy.

" dado " deep

" dado1732" deep

2"

x 1fi x 2" clear acrylic

#8 x " F.H. wood screw

" flat washer

-20 x 1fi" F.H. machine screw

Four-arm knob with " insert

6"

4"

3"

2"

fi"

fi x x 9"

" hole, countersunkon bottom side

"

"

" shank hole,countersunk

on top

1fi"

9"

" slot

#8 x 1" brass F.H. wood screw

1fi" section of steel rule

1"

BASE

4fi"

Cursor line

764" pilot holefi" deep

1fi"

"

"

INDICATOR

SLIDING BAR

MITER-SLOT GUIDE BAR

EXPLODED VIEW

7Cut a piece of " acrylic to thedimensions shown for the indicator.Drill and countersink the two mountingholes, and scribe and mark a cur sorline, as shown in Photo A. Attachthe indicator to the base, and addthe knob.

Now, cut some stripsTo cut a thin strip with the jig, place

its guide bar in the left-hand mitergauge slot on your tablesaw. Loosenthe knob, set the cursor to zero (thebottom end of the rule), and retightenthe knob. Slide the jig so that the brassscrew head is beside the saw blade.Turn the screw in or out with a screw-driver until the head lightly contacts aleft-leaning tooth. Pull the jig towardyou, loosen the knob, set the cursor

for the desired strip thickness, and re-tighten the knob.

Position your workpiece against the ripfence, and move the fence to bring the leftedge of the workpiece against the screwhead, as shown in Photo B. Lock thefence, set the jig out of the way, and youreready to cut a strip, as shown in Photo C.

After completing the cut, clean up theworkpiece on the jointer. Replace the jig

in the slot. Then unlock the rip fence,move it to bring the jointed edge againstthe screw head, lock the rip fence, re-move the jig, and saw another strip. Re-peat the process as many times as neces-sary to produce all of the strips that youneed for your project.

Written by Jim Pollock with Jeff Mertzand Kevin BoyleIllustrations: Roxanne LeMoine; Lorna Johnson

3


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You can taper one side of a table legwithout much head-scratching,but tapering all four sides equallypresents more of a challenge. With

this jig, however, you can cut all four taperswithout changing your setup. You simplyrotate your workpiece between cuts.

Locate the hold-downs to suit the lengthof your workpiece. (The pivot block cansit at either end of the jig.) If your tablesawhas a 10" blade, you can handle workpiecesup to 2" thick.

Refer to Sources on page 7 for hard-ware for this project.

Build the jig

1For the base, cut a piece of " ply-wood to the size shown on Drawing1, then cut a piece of " hardboard to thesame dimensions.

2Cut fl" dadoes " deep in one faceof the plywood, where dimensioned.Glue the hardboard to the dadoed facewith yellow glue. Now, clamp the as-sembly between two scraps of plywoodto ensure even pressure. After the gluedries, remove the clamps, set your dadoblade for a "-wide cut, put an auxiliary

fence on your miter gauge, and cut a slotthrough the hardboard, centered over eachplywood dado, as shown in Photo A.

3Cut a piece of maple to 12",then cut two 3" pieces and one 3fi"piece from this blank for the guide bars.For the hold-down bases, cut a piece of" plywood to 1fi12". Cut a " groovedown the center of one face of this ply-wood, where dimensioned on the drawing.Drill two " holes near opposite ends of

the groove, with each hole centered in thegroove and fi" from the end. Cut a 3" piecefrom each end to make two hold-downbases. Next, glue one guide bar piece inthe groove on each hold-down base. Afterthe glue dries, drill a " hole through eachassembly, using the previously drilledholes as guides.

4Cut a maple blank to 212" tomake the pivot block. (We begin withan oversized piece to assure safety duringthe cutting process.) Cut a rabbet on oneend of the blank, where shown on Draw-ing 1a. Now, drill two holes to form the

ends of the adjustment slot, remove thematerial between the holes with a copingsaw or scrollsaw, and clean up the slotwith a file. Cut a " groove centered on the

bottom edge of the blank. Next, drill a "hole centered in the groove 2fi" from therabbeted end. Glue in the 3fi" guide barpiece, making it flush with the rabbetedend. After the glue dries, drill a " holethrough the blank, using the previouslydrilled hole as a guide. Trim the blank to3fi" in length. Sand and finish the assembly.

5Assemble the hold-downs as shown.For the pivot block, file or grind oneedge of the washer flat, as shown onDrawing 1a, and then assemble the nut,screw, and washer as shown. Adjustableup or down in the slot, this screw serves

as an indexing pin. Once set for a partic-ular workpiece, it guarantees that everycut in the sequence is an equal distancefrom the center of the workpiece.

After cutting dadoes in the plywood base,glue the hardboard to the dadoed face.Mount the two outside blades of a dadoset in your tablesaw, and cut slots throughthe hardboard centered over each dado.

Diagonal lines on the end of the workpiecelocate the hole that fits onto the indexingpin. Draw the cutline for the final shape,and extend the lines to the edges to helpyou position the workpiece on the jig.

Four-SidedTapering JigHeres a slick way to taperfour sides of a table legallwith one simple jig.

tablesaw jigs

A B



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A

reliable tablesaw miter gaugehandles a lot of crosscuttingtasks, but not all. It rides in justone slot, and supports the work-

piece on just one side of the blade, allow-ing for slop. This problem disappears,however, with an accurate crosscut sled.Our design is both inexpensive and sim-ple to build. Plus, it includes reliable,adjustable stops for repeatable cuts. Fromthe moment you put this jig to use at yourtablesaw, youll discover that makingright-angle cuts is easier and safer.

Build a real workhorse

1Select a flat piece of " plywood, andcut the platform to the dimensionsshown on Drawing 1.

2Cut two fi330" maple pieces for thefence, and cut a fl" groove " deepin the face of one piece, where shownon Drawing 1a. Glue the two blankstogether, keeping the edges flush and the

groove on the interior of the lamination.After the glue dries, cut a " groove cen-tered on the fl" groove. Then, cut a rabbetalong the front of the bottom edge and a

fi" groove centered along the top edge.

3From " maple, cut the blade guardsides and end. Glue and screw the endto the sides. Now, screw the blade guardto the fence, where shown on Drawing 1.

4Cut the front rail from " maple. Usea jigsaw to cut a notch, where shown,for the blade to pass through. Attach thefront rail and the fence to the platformwith screws.

5Cut, sand, and finish two top bladeguard supports. Using a fine-toothedtablesaw blade, cut a piece of " clearacrylic to size for the blade guard cover.

Attach the cover to the supports and thefront rail.

6From " maple stock, cut two stripsto serve as miter-slot guide bars. Setyour tablesaw rip fence 8" to the right

of the blade, and lower the blade belowthe tables surface. (Note: Make sure yourfence is parallel to the miter gauge slotbefore proceeding.) Apply double-faced

tape to the top of each guide bar, and at-tach the bars to the platform, as shown inPhotos A and B. Remove the assemblyfrom the saw, and permanently attach thebars with screws.

7Cut a piece for the stopblock, and cuta dado in the back, where shown. Cuta guide bar, and glue it into the dado.Drill a shank hole through the block andbar, where shown. Now, cut a piece of "acrylic plastic to size for the stopblock in-dicator. See Drawing 1b. Drill, saw, andfile smooth the slot, where shown. Makea cursor line, as shown.

8Remove the top blade guard, sand thejig, and apply three coats of finish.Reattach the blade guard, assemble and in-stall the stopblock, place the crosscut sledon your tablesaw, and make a cut from

Two pennies shim the miter-slot guidebars slightly above the tablesaw surface.Place a couple of these stacks in eachmiter-gauge slot, and set the bars on top.

Keeping the right end of the platform againstthe rip fence, set the sled assembly onthe guides. Press down firmly to stick thebars to the platform.

Hold the workpiece firmly against thefence as you make a cut. Keep your handsoutside the blade guard, and dont cutthrough its end.

Dead-On 90

Crosscut SledWhen you build this sled, youraccuracy and efficiency at thetablesaw will soar.

tablesaw jigs

A B C

8 Shop Tested Tablesaw Jigs 20066


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Raised-Panel JigWith this one jig,

you can build threepopular styles ofdoor panels for yournext cabinet project.

tablesaw jigs

Raised panels have long been a signof fine craftsmanshipperhapsbecause they appear difficult tomake. But as youll see here, that

need not be the case. On page 10, wellshow you a simple method for using thisjig to cut panels with a tablesaw.

Combine scrap material with a few

hardware items and youll have a jig des-tined for a lifetime of service. See page7, for a hardware source for the knobs.

Start with the basics

1Cut two pieces of " MDF to thedimensions in the Materials Listto make the upright (A) and base (B).Scrollsaw or bandsaw the 1fi" radii onthe two corners of (B), cutting outside theline. Then sand to the line.

2Using your dado blade, cut two "dadoes " deep in the top of the base,where shown on Drawing 1.

3After adding an auxiliary fence to yoursaw tablesaw rip fence, cut a rabbet" wide and " deep along the bottomedge of the upright (A), where shown onDrawing 1.

4Next, drill " holes in the upright(A) and at the ends of the slot loca-tions in the base. Lay out the sides of theslots, and scrollsaw them to shape with a#12 blade. Cut two braces (C), as dimen-sioned on Drawing 2.

5Drill " pilot holes, and then glueand screw the jig together using#81fi" brass screws, where shown.Tip: Use brass screws anytime your jigsscrew holes are close to the saw blade.



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How to CutCustom Raised Panels

"frame

"

PLAIN-BEVELPANEL

" rabbets

" deep

BACK-CUTPANEL

" rabbet" deep

1"

" raised panels"

Shoulder

PROUDPANEL

"

Shoulder1"

"frame

"frame

"frame

THREE POPULAR PANEL STYLES

PROS contemporary look

easy-to-sand bevelsCONS no panel detail to

catch the eye

PROS shoulder detail

catches the eyeCONS bevels are a bit more

difficult to sand

PROS can decorate shoulder

with profile router bitsCONS bevels are a bit more

difficult to sand

Cut raised panelswith a tablesaw

For the woodworker who doesnt have arouter table or the budget for expensiveraised-panel bits, cutting raised panelson the tablesaw is an effective alterna-tive. This method does have one drawback:Youll need to invest time and elbow greaseinto finish-sanding the panel bevels.

To solve the challenge of supportingpanels safely while cutting bevels, buildthe panel-cutting jig shown onpage 8.

Prepare the panelsBefore cutting the door panels to size,match the wood tones and arrange the grain

patterns for best appearance. For example,center the cathedral (inverse V) pattern onnarrow, single-board panels. When gluingup wider panels, use pieces cut from thesame board for consistent grain and color.

Next, decide which style of panel youwant. The drawing at right shows threepopular styles: a plain-bevel panel, onethats flush with the frame (called a back-cut panel), or a proud panel (with thepanel raised above the frame). All will givepanels a custom look. Glue up the stockneeded to make your panel blanks. Then,cut your panels to finished size.

Note: To minimize wood movement, wesuggest using boards no wider than 5"when gluing up your panels.

Mark the bevelsLooking at the end of the panel blank, layout the desired bevel using a sliding bevelsquare. Also, if your panel needs a tongueand rabbet lay them out, at this time.

To cut a raised panel with shoulders (thesquare lip on the face of the panel), firstadjust the tablesaws fence 1" from theblade. Cut a saw kerf " deep (" deepif making proud panels) and 1" from all

four edges and ends of the panels face, asshown in Drawing 3. This kerf will deter-mine the shoulder location.

Set up the jig forsmooth, accurate cutsFor your jig to function well, it must slideparallel to the saw blade with its uprightat a right angle to the saws tabletop. Witheither blade or upright out of alignment,scoring and burning will occur.

The following set-up procedure as-sumes that your miter-gauge slot alignsparallel with your saw blade. If not, makethat adjustment.

With a steel rule, measure the distancefrom the saw blade to the jigs upright.Move the jig side to side as needed sothe distance between the saw blade and

the jig is the same as the panels tongue(and rabbet) thickness. When the uprightis the correct distance from the blade, andparallel to the blade, tighten down the knobsin the guide strip. Now, adjust the bladebevel, as shown in the photopage 11, at top.

Lets cut a raised panelClamp your panel into the jig, exteriorface out, and cut the bevels. Panels can becut in four passes through the saw. First,

cut across the end grain to reduce chip-out.Then cut the bevels on the panel edges.Move through the blade at a consistentspeed, slowing down only if the saw strains.Note: If your saw bogs down in the cut,you may need to use a thin-kerf blade ormake the cut in successively deeper passes.

Sand the panel bevelsRemove any saw marks with 100-gritsandpaper and a hardwood block. Thenfinish-sand the bevels with 150- and 220-grit sandpaper. Take care when sandingnot to remove the ridge at the intersectionof the bevels. Stain the panels before youassemble the door.

Written by Pat LowryIllustrations: Roxanne LeMoine; Lorna Johnson



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11"

1"

45 supportbevels

#8 x 2" brass F.H. wood screw

16"

11"

90


Place lower screws above maximumheight of tablesaw blade.

Backing

Once you master the precision needed to make tight miter joints,youre ready to explore ways to embellish them with face keys ofcontrasting woods that break up the predictable appearance of astandard frame.

This sophisticated look is simple to create. For starters, you can makeboth the key stock and corner rabbets on the tablesaw where you cut themiters. For an easy-to-make jig that steadies a mitered frame at the cor rectangle for cutting corner rabbets on both faces, see the drawing below. Thesample frame corners, shown at right, use readily available " stock cut2" wide.

Corner-RabbetingJig

EXPLODED VIEW

Assemble the corner rabbeting jig so the support bevels and the bot-tom edge of the backing rest flat on your tablesaw. Place the lower pairof screws at least 3" above the lower edge of the backing and base toavoid accidental contact with the tablesaw blade.

Dress up mitered picture frames withface keys, and youll open up a world of

creative possibilities.

tablesaw jigs

Variations on a ThemeExperiment with different combinations of

species for frames, keys, and decorative pins,

or try some of the looks shown below.

Potential key combinations include:

2Walnut keys and

cherry pins on cherry

3 Oak keys and

cherry pins on cherry

4Cherry keys and

maple pins on maple

1Walnut and mahogany

keys on mahogany

5Mahogany keys

on maple



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Lets make a face-keyed miter joint

In preparation, build a corner rabbetingjig using 1" supports and a piece ofMDF overlay plywood, " Baltic birchplywood, or MDF. Youll also need as-

sembled frames plus scrapwood framecorners for practice.

To make key stock that works with the2"-wide frame parts shown, resaw a piece of" stock thats 4fi" wide by roughly 8" longto create two 2"-wide pieces of key stock.The blank can be a single piece of wood oran edge-glued combination of woods. Raiseyour saw blade to 2" and set your fence to

How to furtherdecorate this joint

Face keys alone offer you dozens ofwood combinations, but your imagina-tion neednt stop there. Adding dowels orplugs to the keys, as shown at right, givesthem even more character.

Begin by marking the locations of theplugs on the keys, as shown in Photo D. We

placed these " plugs fi" from the longedge of the key, spacing them 1" apartand equal distances from the shorteredges of the keys. For your plugs, useeither the frame wood species or intro-duce a third species to the joints.

These plugs extend through the keyand into the frame without emerg-ing through the face on the other side.Orient the grain of the plugs withthat of the keys to allow for wood

cut a slot the distance from the face of theblank slightly thicker than your saw kerfwill cut in your frames. Use a feather boardand pushstick for added control. Flip thepiece end for end and cut a second slot, asshown in Photo A, leaving a fi" bridge inthe middle to connect the key stock to theblank. Then, by hand or on a bandsaw, cut

the key stock free from the blank.

Cut the corner rabbetsSet your tablesaw blade height to 2" forcorners on 2"-wide stock. Make test cutsin scrap miters to fine-tune your cuttingdepth and position. Secure the miteredframe in the jig, and set the fence so theblade will cut a kerf-deep rabbet into the

workpiece corner, as shown page 12, attop. By cutting the rabbet on the frameface pressed tight against the jig, youllminimize tear-out. For keys on both sidesof the frame, rotate the workpiece andmake a second cut.

Attach the keys

If necessary after sawing the keys, planethem to just thicker than the depth of yourrabbet. Glue and clamp the key stock tothe corners on the front, back, or bothfaces of the frame, as shown in Photo B.

Bandsaw the excess key stock from theedges of the frame, as shown in Photo C.Flush-sand the edges and faces of the keyswith the edges and faces of the frame.

To cut the key stock, leave a bridge about" wide between the saw kerfs. Later,you can remove the bridge with a band-saw or handsaw.

Before gluing and clamping, plane theface keys to about " thicker than thedepth of the key rabbets in the framestock. Then, glue and clamp.

To saw keys flush with the frame, removeexcess key stock with a bandsaw. Then,sand the face and edges flush using arandom-orbit sander.

Bridge

Pushstick

Featherboard

Space the plugs an equal distance fromthe miter joint line. Plug locations can beadjusted to suit your key and frame sizes.

When using a flush-cutting saw to removeplug stock above the key, cut parallel tothe direction of the key grain.

movement. Glue and seat the plugs,leaving about " above the surface.Remove the excess with a flush-cut-ting saw, as shown in Photo E. Finish

by sanding the plugs flush with theframes face.

Written by Bob Wilson

A B C

D E

woodmagazine.com 13


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16"

11"

90

45 bevels

4"

" shank hole, countersunkon back face

#8 x 2" F.H. wood screws

9"

It doesnt take much work to put a newspin on traditional splined miter joints.

Just install the splines at an angle, as wedid above on a maple-and-walnut let-

ter tray, and you get eye-catching results.First, make the simple spline-cutting jig

for your tablesaw shown above. Then,mark three evenly spaced spline locationson a piece of scrap the same width as thetray side.

Install a blade in your tablesaw thatproduces the flattest possible kerf bottom.(We used an outside blade from our dadoset.) Tilt the blade to 15, and raise it soit extends about halfway into the miteredcorner. Set your jig against the tablesaw

rip fence, place your marked scrap in thejig, and adjust the fence to cut a test slot.Now make the other slots, readjusting thefence between cuts.

When youre satisfied with the design,place clear packing tape around the work-piece corners to reduce chip-out. Holdthe workpiece firmly in the jig, and cutas shown in Photo A. Cut the top slot ineach corner, adjust the fence, cut all fourmiddle slots, adjust again, and cut thebottom slots. Remove the tape.

Double-check the orientation of your work-piece before cutting. Here were holdingthe bottom of the tray to the left, so theslots will point downward.

To cut spline stock, use the thin-stripripping jig (see the how-to details, begin-ning on page 2) to cut spline stock. Repo-sition the fence between cuts.

Spline-

Cutting JigA slight tilt of a saw bladegives your corner splinesa whole new look.

Rip spline stock from the edge of a boardof contrasting stock, as shown in Photo B.

Match its thickness to the kerfusually". Then, cut individual splines from thestrips, making them slightly longer thanthe slots. Spread yellow glue on the splines,slip them into place, and let the glue dry.Trim them off at the surface with a flush-

cutting saw, or use a dovetail saw fol-lowed by a chisel. Sand flush.

By varying the number and placementof the corner splines, you can come upwith other designs. You might try differ-ent saw blade angles, too.

Photographs: Hetherington PhotographyIllustration: Roxanne LeMoine; Lorna Johnson

tablesaw jigs

EXPLODED VIEW

A B



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tablesaw jigs

Protect-and ServeBlade RackKeep your blades sharp, safe, and ready foraction with this wall-mounted system.

This accommodating holder keeps saw blades easily accessible, separated, and pro-tected from damage. In addition to storage slots for standard blades, it also makesroom for a complete 8" stacked-dado set. Dowel pins provide a place for dadoshims, a blade stabilizer, wrenches, and throat plates. The rack handles blades from

7" to 10" in diameter.Start by cutting the 7fi29fi" back to size. (If you want to store more blades, add 2"

to the length for each additional slot.) Now drill the screw and dowel holes.Next, cut the 329fi" sides. Using double-faced tape, temporarily join them together

face-to-face. This lets you lay out and machine both pieces identically.

Drill a fi" hole through both sides to hold the dowels youll add later. Lay out and cut theradiused corners. Mark the locations of the " starter holes for the slots, and then markthe slot locations. Drill the starter holes, and cut the slots using a bandsaw or jigsaw. Cut

just inside the lines, andthen sand the slots smoothusing a piece of " hard-board wrapped in 100-gritsandpaper. Also sand offthe sharp points on eachslot, where shown.

To complete the rack,screw the sides to the back,and glue in the dowels.Add a coat of clear fin-

ish, and mount the holderto the wall by driving 3"screws into a stud.

7fi"

29fi"

2"

3"

"

3"

1fi"

1"

3"

2"

2"

29fi"

fi" dowel 2" long

fi" dowel2" long

fi" dowel1" long fi" hole

fi" hole

#8 x 3" F.H. wood screw,centered over a wall stud

#8 x 1fi" F.H. wood screw

" shank hole,countersunkon back face," from edge,with a mating" pilot hole

in side


" hole

60

3"R=fi"

9"

1"

1"

9"

SIDE

BACK

SIDE

Note: Back and Sides are madefrom " birch plywood.

Sand offsharppoints.

Copyright Meredith Corporation 2006


Table Saw Jigs

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