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T4 TORONTO STAR ON ON9 TRAVEL B.C. celebrates Indigenous ... · and ducks and cattails and moss. We...
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T4 ⎮ TORONTO STAR THURSDAY, JUNE 8, 2017 ON ON9 >> TRAVEL VANCOUVER—Old Hands uses an eagle wing to scoop up the sage smoke ema- nating from his smudge pot and wave it all around me, literally wiping away my negative energy and transferring it back into the abalone shell pot. The traditional healer asks the higher forces to cleanse me, heal any parts that I might not even know are ailing and fill me with the Earth Mother’s energy. I’m out of my element, happy but verging on uneasy, for this private smudging ceremony. Maybe it’s be- cause Old Hands (the 67-year-old el- der’s preferred name) sprinkled to- bacco on the four corners of a purple rug — “because you have to give something to get something” — and then told me to enter from any direc- tion without knowing what each en- try point represents. Old Hands later declares that I’m “in good shape” but is reluctant to reveal what my entry point meant. He doesn’t want to worry me, but allows that north means you’re looking for wisdom, south means you have a desire to be helpful, west means you’re looking for a change that’s within and east means you’re seeking a new beginning. I entered from the east and as someone who hates to do the same thing twice, I’m OK with endless new beginnings. What’s unique about this brief smudging ceremony is that it’s hap- pening on the sixth floor of the Skwa- chays Lodge, an Aboriginal arts hotel in downtown Vancouver. There’s a small sweat lodge on the balcony, but I’ve opted for a less intense smudging and chat in the sun-splashed smudge room, with its forest wallpaper, faux trees and painted cloudy, blue-sky ceilings. Old Hands is Shoshone from Cali- fornia but living in Surrey with his Gitxsan-Alutiiq wife. He served in the Vietnam War and understands PTSD in a way that helps him be “a really good healer” for both Aboriginal and non-Aboriginal people, including a smattering of global tourists. “Religions are like cellphones — ev- erybody has a different one, but we all call the same operator,” Old Hands quips. He also loves to quote his late grandfather, the man who taught him about traditional medi- cine and who used to say: “We live in a magical world, but nobody looks for the magic.” Maybe most people are wilfully blind to the spirit world, but some of us are on a permanent hunt for mag- ic. I’ve come to British Columbia by train to spend a few days exploring Canada’s burgeoning Aboriginal tourism scene. Little-known fact: Vancouver, with more than 52,000 First Nations peo- ple, is on the traditional territories of the Musqueam, Squamish and Tsleil-Waututh. Better-known fact: British Columbia is the most diverse B.C. celebrates Indigenous traditions Smudging ceremonies, forest explorations and wool weaving round out trip JENNIFER BAIN TRAVEL EDITOR Old Hands, a traditional healer, holds smudging ceremonies at the Skwachays Lodge in downtown Vancouver. JENNIFER BAIN/TORONTO STAR Continued on next page province in Canada for Aboriginal Peoples, with 203 different First Nations, 34 languages and about 60 dialects. I talk about this with Paula Amos over dinner at Salmon n’ Bannock after exploring the Museum of An- thropology at UBC’s collection of Northwest Coast First Nations arts with totem poles aplenty and views of the Coast Mountains and Salish Sea. Amos is with Aboriginal Tourism BC, which expects to attract 2.2 mil- lion visitors and generate $1.5 billion in spending on trips with an Aborigi- nal experience within five years. It already has more than 90 experi- ences and is only in its early stage of development. She’s of Hesquiaht and Squamish Nation descent and a big fan of Salm- on n’ Bannock — and its co-owner Inez Cook, of the Nuxalk Nation — and thrilled that a tiny Pacific Coast fish called ooligan (candlefish) is on tonight’s menu. We go a little crazy ordering, getting everything from the salmon sampler (wild salmon prepared three ways — candied, ceviche and mousse) and bison back ribs to bannock, of course. “First Nations — we’re ‘in’ right now,” says Cook, also an Air Canada flight attendant, with a grin. “It’s awesome to be able to showcase my heritage with pride.” Another woman proudly showcas- ing her Sechelt First Nations culture is Candace Campo of Talaysay Tours who runs cultural and eco experienc- es such as the Talking Trees Walk at Stanley Park that I did with her and guide Deanna Lewis (a.k.a. Kalka- lalth, Wild Women of the Moun- tains). Lewis, from Squamish Nation, kicked off our interpretive walk with singing and drumming in the park- ing lot. The forest, she says, “is like our smorgasbord. Everything comes from the land and we talk everything that we need.” She shows how a de- caying red cedar tree can be turned into a dried paint and how thick bark was once used for smoke signals.
Transcript of T4 TORONTO STAR ON ON9 TRAVEL B.C. celebrates Indigenous ... · and ducks and cattails and moss. We...
T4⎮TORONTO STAR THURSDAY, JUNE 8, 2017 ON ON9
>>TRAVEL
VANCOUVER—Old Hands uses an eaglewing to scoop up the sage smoke ema-nating from his smudge pot and waveit all around me, literally wiping awaymy negative energy and transferringit back into the abalone shell pot.
The traditional healer asks thehigher forces to cleanse me, heal anyparts that I might not even know areailing and fill me with the EarthMother’s energy.
I’m out of my element, happy butverging on uneasy, for this privatesmudging ceremony. Maybe it’s be-cause Old Hands (the 67-year-old el-der’s preferred name) sprinkled to-bacco on the four corners of a purplerug — “because you have to givesomething to get something” — andthen told me to enter from any direc-tion without knowing what each en-try point represents.
Old Hands later declares that I’m“in good shape” but is reluctant toreveal what my entry point meant.
He doesn’t want to worry me, butallows that north means you’relooking for wisdom, south meansyou have a desire to be helpful, westmeans you’re looking for a changethat’s within and east means you’reseeking a new beginning. I enteredfrom the east and as someone whohates to do the same thing twice, I’mOK with endless new beginnings.
What’s unique about this briefsmudging ceremony is that it’s hap-pening on the sixth floor of the Skwa-chays Lodge, an Aboriginal arts hotelin downtown Vancouver. There’s asmall sweat lodge on the balcony, butI’ve opted for a less intense smudgingand chat in the sun-splashed smudgeroom, with its forest wallpaper, fauxtrees and painted cloudy, blue-skyceilings.
Old Hands is Shoshone from Cali-fornia but living in Surrey with hisGitxsan-Alutiiq wife. He served in theVietnam War and understands PTSDin a way that helps him be “a reallygood healer” for both Aboriginal and
non-Aboriginal people, including asmattering of global tourists.
“Religions are like cellphones — ev-erybody has a different one, but weall call the same operator,” OldHands quips. He also loves to quotehis late grandfather, the man whotaught him about traditional medi-
cine and who used to say: “We live ina magical world, but nobody looksfor the magic.”
Maybe most people are wilfullyblind to the spirit world, but some ofus are on a permanent hunt for mag-ic. I’ve come to British Columbia bytrain to spend a few days exploring
Canada’s burgeoning Aboriginaltourism scene.
Little-known fact: Vancouver, withmore than 52,000 First Nations peo-ple, is on the traditional territories ofthe Musqueam, Squamish andTsleil-Waututh. Better-known fact:British Columbia is the most diverse
B.C. celebrates Indigenous traditionsSmudging ceremonies, forest explorations and wool weaving round out trip
JENNIFER BAIN TRAVEL EDITOR
Old Hands, a traditional healer, holds smudging ceremonies at the Skwachays Lodge in downtown Vancouver.JENNIFER BAIN/TORONTO STAR
Continued on next page
province in Canada for Aboriginal Peoples, with 203 different First Nations, 34languages and about 60 dialects.
I talk about this with Paula Amosover dinner at Salmon n’ Bannockafter exploring the Museum of An-thropology at UBC’s collection ofNorthwest Coast First Nations artswith totem poles aplenty and viewsof the Coast Mountains and SalishSea.
Amos is with Aboriginal TourismBC, which expects to attract 2.2 mil-lion visitors and generate $1.5 billionin spending on trips with an Aborigi-nal experience within five years.
It already has more than 90 experi-ences and is only in its early stage ofdevelopment.
She’s of Hesquiaht and SquamishNation descent and a big fan of Salm-on n’ Bannock — and its co-ownerInez Cook, of the Nuxalk Nation —and thrilled that a tiny Pacific Coastfish called ooligan (candlefish) is ontonight’s menu.
We go a little crazy ordering, gettingeverything from the salmon sampler(wild salmon prepared three ways —candied, ceviche and mousse) andbison back ribs to bannock, of course.
“First Nations — we’re ‘in’ rightnow,” says Cook, also an Air Canadaflight attendant, with a grin. “It’sawesome to be able to showcase myheritage with pride.”
Another woman proudly showcas-ing her Sechelt First Nations cultureis Candace Campo of Talaysay Tourswho runs cultural and eco experienc-es such as the Talking Trees Walk atStanley Park that I did with her andguide Deanna Lewis (a.k.a. Kalka-lalth, Wild Women of the Moun-tains).
Lewis, from Squamish Nation,kicked off our interpretive walk withsinging and drumming in the park-ing lot.
The forest, she says, “is like oursmorgasbord. Everything comesfrom the land and we talk everythingthat we need.” She shows how a de-caying red cedar tree can be turnedinto a dried paint and how thick barkwas once used for smoke signals.
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Campo raves about a low-growing plantcalled skunk cabbage that you can eat as“starvation food” if you get lost in thewoods or use as wax paper or plastic wrapto transfer food. We talk about berriesand ducks and cattails and moss.
We stop to drink tea from a thermos,admiring all the trees we meet, but espe-cially the red cedar (“tree of life”).
I also marvelled at cedar at the AudainArt Museum in Whistler after a quickroad trip along the famous Sea-to-SkyHighway. The collection of First Nationsmasks is stunning, as is the quiet uppergallery space where you can gaze out thefloor-to-ceiling windows at beautiful aB.C. forest.
And at the Squamish Lil’wat CulturalCentre, after feasting on bannock tacos inthe Thunderbird Café, I spent a little timeoutside of my comfort zone doing CoastSalish wool weaving with Allison Burns-
Joseph of Squamish Nation.Using a table loom, I decide to make a
wall hanging instead of a bracelet orheadband.
“When wool weavers weave their piec-es,” Burns-Joseph says, “they do it withlove, respect and honour so that thewearers will be protected — and thatcould mean the mind, body or soul isprotected.”
The blue wool of my miniature wallhanging represents Squamish Nation.The white wool represents unity and hasa silver sparkle through it that delightsBurns-Joseph.
She declares my piece, which hangs onan unsharpened pencil, “quite beautiful”and promises that the love and energy Iput into it will linger and if I “feel a littledown and out,” I can simply rub it to getsome of that good energy back. Jennifer Bain was hosted by Destination B.C.,Tourism Vancouver and Tourism Whistler,which did not review or approve this story.
Guide Deanna Lewis starts the Talking Trees Walk at Stanley Park with a song.JENNIFER BAIN/TORONTO STAR
Red cedar known as ‘tree of life’ Continued from previous page
Stay: In Vancouver, I stayed at Skwa-chays Lodge (skwachays.com), an Ab-original art hotel and social enterprise. InWhistler, I stayed at the Fairmont Cha-teau Whistler (Fairmont.com).Eat: In Vancouver, I ate at Salmon n’Bannock (salmonandbannock.net) andTimber (timbervancouver.com).
Do: Talaysay Tours (talaysay.com),Squamish Lil’wat Cultural Centre(slcc.ca), Audain Art Museum (audai-nartmuseum.com), Museum of Anthro-pology at UBC (moa.ubc.ca).Do your research: hellobc.com, tourismvancouver.com, aboriginalbc.com, whistler.com.
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