Systems of Ginza

8/3/2019 Systems of Ginza

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CUTTING SECTION SOP

Inputs Details related toFabric such as face side/Shade bands etc..

1. Shade swatches along with the face side

swatch approved by the buyer should be received from the

Go down and Merchandising dept respectively.

2. Shade segregation should be complying with the approved

swatches.

3. Verify whether the shade segregation is matching to

the standard.

4. Approval from H/office mandatory if the received lots of

fabric are not matching to standards.

5. The approval must have a checklist form for all the tests

& approval standards w. r. t colour, wash, embroidery,

printing, hand feel

6. Shade band details (Shade A, B, C, D) after verification

should be received from fabric inspector & spreading team

also should be given a copy for reference.

7. Shade grouping also must be received from the fabric

godown.

8. Fabric details such as to face/back, nap direction; hand

feel should be received from the godown duly approved by

the merchant.

9. Shade wise/widthwise segregated rolls only should be

received, checked & then should proceed for laying.


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10. Both ends of every roll should have sticker consisting

details of shade no, roll no, width and other relevant detail

to enable easy identification of rolls.

Cutting Forecast shade wise

1. Cuttable quantities from each lot and shade should be

informed to marketing, QA, & Buyer QA in advance for

approval.

2. Cutting of rolls/bales should be done shade wise as per the

breakdown of the PO

Note: Rolls should be allotted in such a way that no of shades included

in a single lay or shipment or size range is minimized.

Spreading of fabric for

Relaxation

1. Unroll the fabric from rolls & lay on table/flat area in

concentric folds.

2. Allow for free relaxation without any obstruction the

period should be studied and pre determined by the Godown and the factory Fabric Inspector

3. Record the time of unrolling and ready time laying of each

roll

4. Relaxation of the lay should be pre determined and will be

around 3-6hrs (for stretch fabrics if necessary especially


3/24

for knitted fabcrics

Fusing-Study of FusingShrinkage

1. Cut fabric swatches with square template of size 18

X18(or 12x 12)

2. Fuse the fabric & specified interlining at specified

temperature, pressure & time.

3. Allow for cooling of the fused parts.4. Check for fusing shrinkage and record same ---this should

be incorporated into the patterns as allowance for fusing.

5. Check for shade variation if any due to fusing. If you

observe any shade variation, report to the Cutting In Charge

and initiate corrective action.

6. Check the fusing for defects like peel off, bubbles etc.

Inform deviations/defects if any to the concerned for

necessary corrective action.7. QA team has to educate/specify area of fusing, and

temperature and pressure to be set for fusing-

8. Fusing tests must be carried out twice a day, once at the

start of the machine then in the afternoon.

Fusing Machine-- Tests & Daily Maintenance:

>> Fusing validation trial tests must be carried out regularly,

when the new style begins fusing parameters has to be

finalised (temperature, time & pressure).

>>Check the fusing machine pressure rollers nip, affecting the

fusing quality, by passing a fabric strip through the machine &

by pulling it backward --the need for re alignment of the


4/24

rollers pressure can be identified when this is done at three

points i.e left/center/right of the belt.

>>By passing a carbon paper placed on top a white paper

through the machine the impression on the white paper can

be observed. This would also will help us to determine any

inconsistence of the roller pressure at left>center> Right

>>Cleaning of the belt thoroughly and check for the required

temperature and pressure when the fabric/colour changes.

Washing Shrinkage1. Percentage of washing shrinkage lengthwise and widthwise

should be received from fabric section and recordedthe

suppliers should ensure that the shrinkages are as specified

by the buyers (international standard limits are 3%

lengthwise and 3% -widthwise )

2. Identify the face & reverse side as per the swatch . Mark the

roll no, PO, Style, QC, Taka No etc

3. If the washing shrinkage % is more that 1.5% then the

shrinkage test to be conducted for all the rolls/bales

received (100% of rolls)

4. If there is a big variation in shrinkage, multiple markers to

be prepared.

For Example: For absolute shrinkage % range of 3.0 4.5 %

marker/pattern#1 & for shrinkage of 4.5% - 6% - Marker/Pattern# 2 like that.

>>Color codification should be done to trace rolls of shrinkage groups ,

if the range is too large or inconsistent.


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Cutting of Pilot Run

Objective: carried out in order to make the necessary

amendments in patterns/laying procedure/cutting procedure

/cutting allowance/ marker changes/panel

inspection/numbering area/bundling size.

1. Cutting incharge, production manager & IE shall plan for the

pilot & bulk cutting.

2. Pilot run cutting shall be done as per the

colour/size/quantity advised by FM/PM/IE.-the selection of

the rolls should cover all the shades and shrinkagegroups

3. Make a report of observations, comments, suggestions,

amendments, simplification, risk analysis, corrective action

plan based on the above analysis.

4. Obtain feed back from the sewing & buying QA and then act

upon the necessary corrective action.

Marker drawing &

Preservation of patterns

1. Carbon Papers could be used for duplication of markers in

case of non-CAD markers.In case of Nike orders it is not

allowed---efforts be made to obtain computer markers from

a close by plant..

2. The pattern/marker being suggested by HO team is only a

starting point for the cutting incharge to work on better

fabric utilisation. Cutting incharge should try out different

markers to maximize fabric


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3. A Parts Checklist has to be maintained by the marker

drawer to ensure coverage of all parts in the lay.

4. Pattern should be verified for required allowances,

tolerances, notches and embellishment placement marks,

grain line, nap direction indications before marking.

5. Constant usage of patterns results in wear & tear of pattern,

this has to be regularly monitored and worn out patterns to

be replaced even daily if the case demands to ensure

cutting quality.

6. Cello tape could be used to preserve the edges of the

pattern boards for big quantities plastic boards could

be used to duplicate the pattern for marker drawing

7. If the patterns are worn out, it has to be replicated & cross-

verified for required measurements, allowances and

tolerances. On satisfying these factors the worn out pattern

has to be replaced.

8. Worn out patterns are to be destroyed after conformation

on the correctness of the specifications mentioned in tech

pack.

9. Lay sheet on which the marker is drawn is torn in the

middle & stickers are pasted consisting details like PO no,

Serial no, Fabric code no, Lot no. Hence easy identification

of cut panels.

Lay Preparation:

1. Layers shall collect lay slip, cutting job card, lay sheet fromthe minusing person.

2. Layers shall lay the fabric according to the lay slip details.

3. Layers shall collect rolls of only one shade and one width for

the lay at a time ,if any shade change is noticed then use

separators- i.e. lay sheet has to be placed for identification.


7/24

4. The cutting incharge has to decide upon the kind of lay such

as face-to-face, face to back, face up, face down, grain

line, nap direction during the PP meeting stage upon the

analysis of the garment.

5. Use lay separator sheets to separate rolls of different

shades if used in the same laythe shade category should

be mentioned on every lay separator sheet also.

Lay Precaution:

5. During laying the layers should check the lay-to-lay shade

variation & also center to selvedge variation as a part of

online check procedure.6. QC shall inspect the lay for lay tension, width, length, grain

line, nap direction etc.

7. End wastage for laying of fabric shouldnt be more than 1

cm.

Bulk Cutting

1. Lay wise manpower requirement must be planned.

2. Cutters must be trained on the methods of accurate cutting,

especially for parts with deep curves. If possible

diagrammatic representation of the direction of movementof the cutter needs to be illustrated.

3. Cutters shall inspect the cutting machine for oil leakage,

straightness of the blade, sharpening quality, evenness in

sharpening of the blade, dust accumulation before cutting.


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4. Cutters shall cut lay as per the mark up using straight knife

m/c and move the parts to band knife as per the discussion

in PP meeting.

5. QC shall inspect all the cut parts using patterns and initiate

corrective action upon the detection of defect.

6. Prepare 1st cut bundle inspection report; notify fabric

defects and cutting defects to FM/PM.

7. QC should have a cutting checklist against which 1st bundle

audit has to be conducted. Checklist should have details of

allowances, tolerance included in pattern, notches and

embellishments placement markings details.

8. The size of the straight knife for cutting lightweight fabrics

should be 6 only.

9. Straight knife must be uniformly sharpened from top to

bottom as frequently required,. This ensures even

sharpening along the full

10. length of the knife/blade.

Note:If sharpening of blade is uneven/inconsistent, it would result in

uneven depth of notch marks and variation in cutting too..

11. For Band knife cutting , patterns preferably made of

tin should be used.


9/24

12. The patterns used for band knife must be changed

regularly upon monitoring the wear and tear on the pattern,

due to frequent usage.

Numbering

1. Numbering plan must be given by the numbering incharge,

specifying the style #, colour, P.O No., Serial No., No. Of

garments cut, sizes.

2. All the parts shall be numbered in a pre determined

sequence and at pre determined location.3. Numbering stickers gum strength (Light/Medium/Heavy) has

to be decided keeping in mind the kind of fabric being cut.

Panel Checking

1. The checkers carried out panel checking by placing the cut

panels on the pattern and checking for accuracy of notches,

grain lines, nap direction, crocked cutting, measurements &

tolerance.

2. Mark the pattern on a board (Acrylic. Card Board) along with

+/- tolerance as dotted lines around the outline marked.

Place the cut panel (component) on this marked area. It

becomes easier to asses if the cut panel is within or out of

tolerance. This inspection board has to verified and

approved by pattern maker before usage.

3. Once the fabric is cut, they shall be bundled and marked

with inspection status.

4. When a bundle is checked, they shall be marked with green

as c.


10/24

5. When cut panels are inspected they shall be marked with

green as I.

6. All panels shall be checked for fabric defects.

Bundling & Sorting

1. Cuts shall be bundled in to a pre determined bundle size

and will be segregated size wise as well as lot wise and

stored in bags.

2. Bags shall be stored in racks batch wise.

3. Issues of cut bundles to batches be done out as per theloading plan

4. Bundle tags will have details such as lot no, serial no, size,

bundle no.

5. Mention shade category (A, B, C) on the cut panels for easy

identification and tracking.

Re cutting & End bit Control:

8. Layers shall mark both end bits with roll number, cut-lot

number, meter age --all the bits every lay shall be bundled

and given to recutting department.

9. End-bits should be always laid face-up, no change in laying

procedure without prior information from the incharge

10. End-bits should be placed separately (Shade wise) to

avoid discrepancies, the roll & taka number should be

written and stacked separately

11. Re-Cutting should be done from the same lot of fabric,

matching the shade, to avoid shade variation.

POSTED BY BALAJI JAGANNATH AT 4:24 AM1 COMMENTS
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11/24

LABELS: APPAREL, BENCHMARKING , INDUSTRIAL

ENGINEERING,MANUFACTURING, PROCESS PLANNING, PRODUCTION

MANAGEMENT,STANDARD OPERATING PROCEDURES, SYSTEMS

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Application of Workstudy in Apparel Manufacturing

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Reducing Product Change Over Time in Apparel Mfg

RFID in Production Tracking of Apparels

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Strategy for implementation of IT/ERP solutions in Apparel

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12/24

PARADIGM SHIFT TOWARDSQUALITY ASSURANCE

T U E S D A Y , A U G U S T 2 8 , 2 0 0 7

Paradigm Shift towards Process Planning & Controlin Assuring Quality

This research paper is relevant to Indian Apparel manufacturing sector.

Designed under technical guidance of Mr. Jayashantha Perera

(Prevention Vs Detection)

Proposed Involvement of (Head Office) HO QA Team & Factory QA Team in

assuring quality.

Sampling Stage

Present involvement of HO QA team at sampling stage is NIL

Tech pack analysis for all the new styles & provide input to PAM.

>> QA team has to analyze Techpack and prepare notes to contribute to

PAM.

>> QA team has to analyze garments for all the processes it will be going through

during the manufacturing process. (Ex: Fabric Inspection, Fabric Treatment,

Cutting Process, Embroidery, Printing, Sewing, Trims & Accessories

placement, Post Sewing Treatments, Pressing, Packing & Packaging).

>> QA team has to prepare guidelines/work instructions for each process and

discuss at PAM.
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>> QA team has to forecast Quality concerns that factory may come across for

every stage of the manufacturing process.

Process Owner: HO-QA Team

Process Monitor: R & D Team

System Support: R & D Team

Pattern & Construction Changes History.

>> QA team has to analyze & understand the changes made in patterns at various

stages of sampling process and the reasons contributing to it.

>> QA team has to analyze & understand the changes made in constructions &

specification requirements at various stages of sampling process and the

reasons contributing to it.

>> The above two points would give an insight to QA team on critical areas the

customer is focusing on w.r.t garments.

Process Owner: HO-QA Team

Process Monitor: R & D Team

System Support: R & D Team

Pre-Production Stage (Batch setting Time)


14/24

Correlation of Fabric on defects 10% random (4-Point). Warehouse

Vs Factory.

>> Central warehouse has to send its inspection report to factory on issue of fabric.

One copy of report to be given to Merchandiser.

>> Factory warehouse, on receipt of fabric from central warehouse, has to

randomly inspect 10% of fabric received by 4-point inspection system.

>> Factory warehouse has to prepare a report for the above inspection conducted.

>> Factory QA & HO QA has to compare the results of the inspection of Factory

& warehouse. Authenticate correctness of the reports & accuracy of the same.

Keep Central Warehouse QA team in loop.

>> Upon rejections & deviations from the prescribed specification, seek approval

on the same from the Customer via Merchandiser.

Process Owner: QA Team

Process Monitor: Factory QA Team/Central Warehouse/Merchandiser

System Support: Systems Team

Verification of Shade segregation for wash/Non-wash garments

against given shade swatches.

>> Seek approved shade swatches from the customer via merchandiser.

>> Verify the shade segregation done by the factory for wash/Non-Wash garments

against the available standard.

>> Guide factories on shade segregation so as to comply with the approved

swatches.


15/24

>> Seek approval on deviation in the bulk lot against the available standard.


Process Monitor: Factory QA Team/Central Warehouse/Merchandiser


Co-Ordinate with merchants & obtain approvals, washing & hand feelstandards.

Trims Card approvals in co-ordination with merchandiser.

Approvals on Embroidery & Print Strike Off.

Test Approvals as specified by the buyer & follow-up status.

>> QA team has to seek testing requirements for the style & follow-up on the samewith merchandiser.

>> QA team has to seek approved standards w.r.t colour standards, wash effect,

embroidery, printing, hand feel, trims & accessories swatch card etc from the

merchandiser to follow during the bulk production.

>> QA team has to make a checklist of all the tests & approvals to be required for

the style & at various stages of manufacturing processes and for various

embellishments involved in the garment.

>> QA team has to follow up with merchants periodically on the status of the

approvals.


16/24

>> QA team has to co-ordinate between factory & merchants on updating status of

approvals.


Process Monitor: Factory QA Team/Merchandiser/Production Planning

Team


Fusing Validation in compliance with specifications.

>> QA team has to educate production team on the use of fusing, areas fusing are

required, way the fusing has to be cut, temperature & pressure to be set for

fusing.


Process Monitor: Factory QA Team/Production Team


Factory Marker verification against the HO & validation

>> QA team has to verify the Marker used by the factory in terms of efficiency &

quality, compare & analyze it with marker prescribed by HO team.

>> QA team has to prescribe usage of the most efficient marker among the two &

ensure the usage of the same.


17/24

>> If same style is split among factories, then markers of all the factories have to

be compared & most efficient marker to be prescribed for use.




Pattern Measurement Report

Clarification/Co-ordination on the measurement adjustment with the

sample room

>> QA team has to verify & certify the correctness of the patterns w.r.t allowances

required, constructions simplification & meeting the spec with in the tolerance.

>> QA team has to duly consider the Pre & Post sewing treatments on the fabric &

garments while verifying & certifying the pattern. They have to check on the

allowances required to meet the specifications after these processes.




Audit on condition of M/cs set for new styles affecting the quality of

garments.


18/24

>> QA team has to audit on the condition of the M/cs that would affect the

productivity & quality of the garment along with the assistance of Maintenance

& IE team.

>> A checklist w.r.t the same has to be prepared & periodically followed up during

the bulk production, batch setting.

>> QA team has to advise maintenance team to follow the same during its

preventive maintenance schedule.

Process Owner: Factory QA team

Process Monitor: HO QA Team/Maintenance Team


Trims Inspection whether carried out by warehouse 10% random +

checklist.

>> QA team has to create a process of trims inspection.

In-House Pre-Production Meetings.

Preparation of defect route for inline for every style

>> QA team has to arrange Pre-Production meetings for the new styles to be

loaded in the factory.

>> Factory Production & Quality team to be involved in the meeting along with a

PAM team member.


19/24

>> Minutes of the meeting (Action Plan) to be documented & later to be used as a

checklist (Action Plan Checklist) during bulk production.

>> PAM notes to be discussed during the pre-production meeting.

>> Critical checkpoints where inline inspection would be required have to be

decided.

>> Critical operations where mockups have to be posted have to be decided.

Recut Panels Analysis & reporting (1st Cut to 3rdCut).

Verification on rejected panels

>> QA Team to analyze & monitor recut % day wise.

>> QA Team to evaluate the reason for recutting & work on action plan for

immediate implementation. Upon implementation recut % to gradually reduce

on comparison to previous day.

>> QA team to randomly, periodically, evaluates the panels inspected by QC &

certifies the correctness of the decision taken.

>> QA teams to monitor Recut % for every style.

Audit the condition of the pattern used for marker drawing

>> Upon usage there will be wear & tear in the pattern, this has to be

regularly monitored to ensure cutting quality.

>> If the patterns are worn out, it has to be replicated & cross verified against the

requirements.


20/24

>> Worn out patterns are to be destroyed after confirmation on the correctness of

the specifications.

Other Tools

1. Verification on Accuracy of the method used for shrinkage test on fabric

2. Random audit the accuracy of marker drawing

3. Random audit the cutting accuracy of cut bundles understanding

of 1/8 tolerance by cutting QC

4. Audit the condition of the equipment (rough edges) used for

sorting of cut bundles

5. Unacceptable/Minor fabric defect swatches be provided oravailable at cutting

6. Widthwise segregation of fabric rolls

7. Operation mock-ups are hung on m/cs with specifications and

signature

8. Pilot lot review & recommendations

9. Inline Flag System

10. Implementation of SPC & SQC Charts

11. Audit on End line inspectors/products12. Verification of Embroidery, Print Placement

13. Verification of Placements of Trims & Accessories

14. Training of End Line QCs on clockwise inspection &

major/minor classification

15. Audit the condition of the equipment (sharp edges) used in

sewing batches

16. After wash inspection & analysis of correct analysis of

defects17. Pressing & button Inspection SPC (Attributes)

18. Monitoring the unshippables due to washing

19. Feedback to washing plant on washing defects

20. Verification of packing requirements & packaging.


21/24

21. Provision of feedback FQC defects to end line checkers &

educate them

22. FQC Inspection

23. Auditing of Products as per AQL

24. Final Measurement report

25. Final Audit report in terms of Presentation (Dummy fit &

evaluation of garments)

26. Pareto analysis on defects at every stage.

27. DHU% level at all stages of the process and correlation

between them.

28. Analysis of Inline, End-Line & Final SPC & audit reports &

corrective action

29. Preservation of products from stains/oil marks and fabric

flaws etc.

30. Evaluation of each QCs performance as per accuracy &

output

31. Individual garments defects identification stickers at end

line and finishing stages

32. Audit on adequacy of lighting level at inspection &

Operation areas.

33. Rotation of End line auditors

34. Acceptance/Revised tolerance level

POSTED BY BALAJI JAGANNATH AT 5:11 AM 1 COMMENTS

LABELS: APPAREL MANUFACTURING, INDUSTRIAL ENGINEERING, PROCESS

CONTROL, QUALITY ASSURANCE, QUALITY CONTROL, QUALITY MANAGEMENT

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22/24

BALAJI JAGANNATH

VIEW MY COMPLETE PROFILE

M Y R E S E A R C H P A P E R S

What is Industrial Engineering?

Competency Demonstration Report 3 - Plant Layout

Competency Demonstration Report 1- My First IE Job

Maximum Exploitation of Internet for Effective, Productive & Profitable

Communication in Apparel Business

Paradigm Shift towards Quality Assurance Application of Workstudy in Apparel Manufacturing

SOP for Sewing Operator Recruitment and Training

Basic SOP for Cutting Section in Apparel Mfg

Reducing Product Change Over Time in Apparel Mfg

RFID in Production Tracking of Apparels

Logical Approach to Wage Fixation/Revis... of Sewing Operators of

Garments Factory in India

Strategy for implementation of IT/ERP solutions in Apparel

Manufacturing

An Observation of IE/IT Application in Apparels

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SAMPLING

SAMPLING STAGES
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1. DEVELOPMENT SAMPLE : (For design and fit) with available fabric2. PROTO SAMPLE: Correcting remarks on development sample andmaking another sample3. PRE PRODUCTION SAMPLE : Final approval sample for bulk production

4. SIZE SET SAMPLES: To ckeck the measurements of all sizes

The system starts with tech pack receiving from merchandising, review thetech pack by Industrial engineer , pattern master , mechanic and qa.

Check the material which you are going to use for making sample ( fabric ,elastic, and accessories)

Check the machine setting for gauge, stitch per inch , and for stitch qualityon a waste fabric before making original sample

Check the cutting against pattern and spec sheet

Check operation wise measurement and construction and stitch quality

Note down the points which occurred during making sample, and how itsrectified, for production easy process

Check the finished garment for all aspects construction, measurements,and trims placement.

Finally review the sample along with industrial engineer , pattern masterand sampling in charge

The sampling in charge should note down the final comments

The QA report should me made two copies one will be for his reference andanother report along with sample should go

The QA will be the part of any new development and in operator skill matrix

The sampling QA and sample technician will be the part of style launch.

Manpower requirement in sampling: Two QAs

Under garment and swimwear one QA


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Other garments one QA

Formats will use in sampling is PP SAMPLE/SIZE SET APPROVALSHEET AND MEASUREMENT CHART ISO FORMAT NO 8.4.1

Systems of Ginza

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