SWIG - Winter Wine List 2011
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Transcript of SWIG - Winter Wine List 2011
2
• Payjust£48.00/month
• Agreatwaynottomissourfavouritewines.
• DeliveryinDecember,March,June,September
• FreeSideofSmokedSalmon
• 2BottlesofChampagneDampierre
Theaveragepriceofthewineis£12.00perbottlebut
ifwethinkwehaveagreatwinethatpunchesaboveits
weightat£8.95wewillincludethatbutwewillbalance
itoutovertheyearwithawineatover£15.00,
soyoudon’tloseout.
Toorderyourwineplancall08000272272
oremail:[email protected]
Youcancancelyourstandingorderatanytime,
andwewillrefundyouanydifference.
*Ifyouaccepttheintroductoryofferweask
thatyoutakeatleastthreewineplandeliveries
SWIG QUARTERLY
WINE PLAN...
FREE SMOKED SALMON !
From our favourite smoker ‘Fence Bay’ of Ayrshire
and 2 bottles of Champagne Dampierre
when you order your wine plan.
Mostofourbestdiscoveriesarecommunicatedviaemail...
Soifwedon’thaveyouremailad
dress,youaren’tenjoyingallthebenefits
ofbeingaSwigcustomer.Hereareafewexamplesofoffersthatwe
have
sentbyemailwithinthelastyearalone:
ImportantMessage!
Pleasecall02089957060oremailwine@sw
ig.co.uk
andwewilladdyouremailaddresstoourlis
tofrecipients.
45
Thislistisarrangedin
ascendingpriceorder.I
tisintendedtobeasn
apshotofwhatwe
particularlylikeatthe
moment,butisbynom
eansanexhaustivecat
alogueofeverything
wehaveinstore.
Pleasecontactusifthe
reissomethingpartic
ularthatyouarelookin
gfororhaveabrowse
ofourwebsite:www.sw
ig.co.uk
Thefollowingindex,ord
eredbygrapevariety,
mayhelpyounavigate
moreeasily.
ChardonnayBuitenverwachting Chardonnay, ConstantiaSouthAfrica2009£11.50Petit Chablis,DomaineSimoneTremblay,France2009
£12.50
Bourgogne Blanc, Domaine Roulot,France2008£22.00Saint Aubin Blanc ‘La Princée’DomaineHubertLamy,Burgundy,France
2008£22.50Yabby Lake Chardonnay, MorningtonPeninsula,Australia2008£24.00‘Fixin, Maison Alex Gambal,Burgundy,
France2007£24.00Domaine Serene Clos du Soleil VineyardChardonnay,DundeeHills,Oregon2007£38.00
Chassagne-Montrachet 1er CruLesChauméesPhilippeColin,Burgundy2008£40.00
Sauvignon BlancKonrad Sauvignon Blanc,Marlborough,NewZealand2009£8.95
Sauvignon de Touraine,DomaineMardon,Loire,France2009
£9.95Chateau Turcaud ‘Cuvée Majeure’,EntredeuxMers,Bordeaux2009£13.50Buitenverwachting ‘Husseys Vlei’ Sauvignon
Blanc,SouthAfrica2009£13.50Kevin Judd Greywacke Sauvignon Blanc,Marlborough,NewZealand2010£14.95
Lismore EstateSauvignon Blanc,Greyton,SouthAfrica2009£17.50
Grenache Blanc or GrisRoc des Anges, Vieilles Vignes,VindePaysdesPyrenéesOrientalesBla
nc2008£17.00Les Clos Perdus ‘L’Extrême’,VindePaysdes
CotesCatalanes,France2009£23.50Milouise, Domaine Padié, VinsdePaysdesCotesCatalanes,France2009£25.00
RieslingRiesling Trocken, Weingut Winter,Rheinhessen,Germany2009£11.50K
nappstein ‘Ackland’ Riesling,ClareValley,Australia2009
£11.95Pyramid Valley Riverbrook VineyardRiesling, Marlborough,NewZealand2008£19.50
Pinot BlancPinot Blanc Philippe Zinck,Alsace,France2007£9.95Pyramid Valley Kerner Estate Pinot Blanc,NewZealand2008£22.00
Viognier - Lismore Estate Viognier, Greyton,SouthAfrica2009£22.50
Chenin Blanc - A A Badenhorst Family Wines,‘Secateurs’White,Swartland,SouthAfrica2010£9.50
Gewurztraminer-Gewurztraminer, Philippe Zinck,Alsace,France2008£12.50
Unusual white varietiesTorrontes ‘Pacha Mama’LasMoras,SanJuan,Argentina2009£
7.95Rioja Blanco CrianzaNavajas,Spain2007£9.95
Iduna Verdejo,BodegaVinaguarena,Toro,Spain2009£14.95
Interesting White Blends
Ampelomeryx, Domaine de Pellehaut,VindePaysdeGascogne2008£10.50
Capolemole Bianco, Marco Carpinetti,Lazio,Italy2009£12.50
Ghiaia di Monte, Ca Boffenisio,OltropoPavese,Lombardy,Italy2004£17.50
A A Badenhorst Family White,CoastalOrigin,SouthAfrica2008£24.00
Palladius Eben Sadie, Swartland,SouthAfrica2008£32.00
Great Whites
The List
5
Thislistisarrangedin
ascendingpriceorder.I
tisintendedtobeasn
apshotofwhatwe
particularlylikeatthe
moment,butisbynom
eansanexhaustivecat
alogueofeverything
wehaveinstore.
Pleasecontactusifthe
reissomethingpartic
ularthatyouarelookin
gfororhaveabrowse
ofourwebsite:www.sw
ig.co.uk
Thefollowingindex,ord
eredbygrapevariety,
mayhelpyounavigate
moreeasily.
Pinot NoirSt Ilia Pinot Noir, ThracianValley,Bulgaria2006£8.95Pinot Noir, Edoardo Miroglio,Bulgaria2007£12.50
‘Red Claw’ Pinot Noir by Yabby Lake, MorningtonPeninsula,Australia2008£14.95
Delta ‘Hatters Hill’ Pinot Noir,Marlborough,NewZealand2007/8£17.50Bourgogne Pinot Noir,Cuvée‘LesDeuxPapis’,
MaisonAlexGambal,France2008£19.50Yabby Lake Pinot Noir,MorningtonPeninsula,Australia2008£24.00
Pyramid Valley ‘Eaton Family’ Pinot Noir,Marlborough,NewZealand2007£35.00
Nuits St Georges 1er Cru ‘Clos des Forets’Domainedel’Arlot,Burgundy2008£39.00
Shiraz or SyrahA A Badenhorst Secateurs Red,SouthAfrica2009£9.95A A Badenhorst Family Red,WineofCoastalOrigin,
SouthAfrica2006£24.00Schubert Syrah, Wairarapa,NewZealand2005£22.50
Cabernet Sauvignon Including BlendsCape Chamonix Rouge,SouthAfrica2007£7.95Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve,Zagreus,Bulgaria2006£8.95
Passion Has Red Lips by Some Young Punks,SouthAustralia2009£13.50Rivarossa, Schiopetto,VeneziaGiuliaIGT,Italy£18.00
De Toren Fusion V,Stellenbosch,SouthAfrica2007£27.50Ombrone Cupano,Sant’Antimo,Tuscany,Italy2007£38.00
Sangiovese Including BlendsChianti Rufina Del Mulino,Lavacchio,Tuscany,Italy2007£9.95
The Squid’s Fist, Some Young Punks,SouthAustralia2009£16.50
Rosso del Gello, Montecucco Rosso,Italy2006£17.50
Rosso di Montalcino Cupano,Tuscany,Italy2007£28.00
Corvina BlendsValpolicella Superiore Carlo Ferragu,Veneto,Italy2007/8£29.50
Amarone Ferragu, Veneto,Italy2005/6£85.00
Tempranillo Including BlendsRioja Crianza ‘Aclys’,BodegasMurua,Spain2006£8.50Munia Crianza, Toro,Spain2006£9.95
Durius Tempranillo-Merlot,CastillayLeon,Spain2004£14.50
Rioja Gran Reserva,BodegasFernandoRemirezdeGanuza,Spain2001£62.00
Malbec-Pascual Toso Malbec Reserve,Mendoza,Argentina2008£13.95
Cabernet Franc - Buitenverwachting Cabernet Franc,Constantia,SouthAfrica2006£14.50
Barbera-Barbera d’Alba, Luciano Sandrone,Piemonte,Italy2006£19.50
Nebbiolo-Barolo, Renato Corino,Piedmont,Italy2006£32.00
Negroamaro-Copertino, Azienda Monaci,Puglia,Italy2007£8.95
Unusual Red VarietiesKorta Barrel Selection Carmenere Reserve, LontueValley,Chile2008£8.95Las Moras ‘Black Label’ Bonarda,SanJuan,Argentina
2008£9.95Vinica, Zagreus Winery,Bulgaria2008£12.50Silene Olevano Romano di Cesanese, CantinaCiolli,Lazio,Italy2006
£13.50Frappato, Azienda Agricola Cos,Sicily,Italy2009£17.00
Interesting Red BlendsMullineux ‘Kloof Street’ Red, SouthAfrica2008£9.95Cotes-du-Rhone ‘Les Plates Pierres’,DomaineMarcBrugaliere,
France2007£9.95Hochar Pere et Fils by Chateau Musar,BekaaValley,Lebanon2003£11.00
Cerasuolo di Vittoria Classico, AziendaAgricolaCos,Sicily,Italy2008£19.50
Great Reds
6
SamplerCase£104.00save£1
8.00
2 x Pinot Grigio Rosé Brut,Spumante,LaJaraNV
Delightfulfullysparkling,organic
roseandagreatalternativetoro
séchampagne
2 x A A Badenhorst Family Wines, ‘Secateurs’ White,Swartland,SouthAfrica2010
ThrillingandtangyoldvineChen
inBlancfromthebuzzingSwartla
ndregion
2 x Ampelomeryx, Domaine de Pellehaut,VindePaysdesCotesdeGascog
ne2008
ComplexblendofChardonnay,Sa
uvignonBlanc,GrosMansengand
PetitManseng
2 x Copertino, Azienda Monaci,Puglia,Italy2007
WonderfulNegroamarofromsout
hernItaly,fulltothebrimwithpe
rsonality
2 x Korta Barrel Selection Carmenere Reserve,LontueValley,Chile2008
Dark,intense,fragrantCarmene
rethatisscreamingoutforajuicy
steak
2 x Rioja Crianza ‘Aclys’, Bodegas Murua,Spain2006
Gentleold-fashionedRiojawithm
ellow,sun-kissedflavoursandhin
tofcoconut
UnusualCase£150.00save£30.002 x A A Badenhorst Family White,CoastalOrigin,SouthAfrica2008
StunningblendthatincludesChenin,Roussanne,Grenache,ViognierandVerdelho
2 x Capolemole Bianco,MarcoCarpinetti,Lazio,Italy2009
Refined,stylishly-labelledwinemadejustoutsideRomeusingtheBellonegrape
2 x Ampelomeryx, Domaine de Pellehaut,VindePaysdesCotesdeGascogne2008
ComplexblendofChardonnay,SauvignonBlanc,GrosMansengandPetitManseng
2 x Vinica, Zagreus Winery,Bulgaria2008FantasticBulgarianredmadeusingthepassitomethodbetterknownforAmarone
2 x Silene Olevano Romano di Cesanese,CantinaCiolli,Lazio,Italy2006
DeliciousandelegantwineusingtheCesanesegrape,similarinweighttoaPinotNoir
2 x Frappato, Azienda Agricola Cos,Sicily,Italy2009
AmazinglyperfumeddryredmadefromtheSicilianFrappatogrape
The SamplerMixed Ca
ses
The Unusual
7
SamplerCase£104.00save£1
8.00
2 x Pinot Grigio Rosé Brut,Spumante,LaJaraNV
Delightfulfullysparkling,organic
roseandagreatalternativetoro
séchampagne
2 x A A Badenhorst Family Wines, ‘Secateurs’ White,Swartland,SouthAfrica2010
ThrillingandtangyoldvineChen
inBlancfromthebuzzingSwartla
ndregion
2 x Ampelomeryx, Domaine de Pellehaut,VindePaysdesCotesdeGascog
ne2008
ComplexblendofChardonnay,Sa
uvignonBlanc,GrosMansengand
PetitManseng
2 x Copertino, Azienda Monaci,Puglia,Italy2007
WonderfulNegroamarofromsout
hernItaly,fulltothebrimwithpe
rsonality
2 x Korta Barrel Selection Carmenere Reserve,LontueValley,Chile2008
Dark,intense,fragrantCarmene
rethatisscreamingoutforajuicy
steak
2 x Rioja Crianza ‘Aclys’, Bodegas Murua,Spain2006
Gentleold-fashionedRiojawithm
ellow,sun-kissedflavoursandhin
tofcoconut
SeriousCase£189.00save£35.00
2 x Chateau Turcaud ‘Cuvée Majeure’,EntredeuxMers,Bordeaux2009Sophisticateddrywhite,barrel-agedBordeauxinthestyleofastylishGraves2 x Ghiaia di Monte, Ca Boffenisio, OltropoPavese,Lombardy,Italy2004Serene,elegantItalianwhite-ablendofSauvignonBlancandRiesling2 x Bourgogne Blanc, Domaine Roulot,France2008Classicmineral-driven,whiteBurgundyfromoneofthegreatestproducersinMeursault2 x Rosso del Gello, Montecucco Rosso, Italy2006FromanappellationthatbordersBrunello,thisisaperfectlymatureSangiovese2 x Bourgogne Pinot Noir, Cuvée ‘Les Deux Papis’, MaisonAlexGambal,France2008Sweetly-perfumedredBurgundyfromvineyardsinthevillageofVolnay2 x Schubert Syrah, Wairarapa,NewZealand2005UtterlyseductiveexpressionofSyrah,similarinstyletoaCoteRotie
The Serious
LuxuryCase£352.00save£4
4.00
2 x Champagne Comte Audoin de DampierreCuveedesAmbassadeursNV
MadeexclusivelyfromPremierCr
ugrapes,thisisafine,complexch
ampagne
2 x Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Chaumées Philippe Colin,Burgundy2008
FiveStarwhiteBurgundy,fullofc
racklingminerals,fineoakandci
trus
2 x Palladius Eben Sadie, Swartland, SouthAfrica2008
Amightilycomplex,tightlywoun
dblendofeightdifferentgrapeva
rieties
2 x Nuits St Georges 1er Cru ‘Clos des Forets’ Domaine de l’Arlot,Burgundy2008
ExquisiteredBurgundyfromado
mainethatproducesethereal,eleg
antreds
2 x Rosso di Montalcino Cupano, Tuscany,Italy2007
RavishingexpressionofSangiove
sethatowesmuchtothequalityo
fthevintage
2 x Valpolicella Superiore Carlo Ferragu,Veneto,Italy2007
Oneofthemostseductivewinesy
oucouldimagine,pureliquidvelv
et
The Luxurious
8
Prosecco Frizzante, La Jara NV £10.956bottlesormorepay£8.95
Delightfully soft and refreshing semi-sparkling Prosecco
Rebrandingisadangerousandpotentiallydisastrousbusiness,asthePostOfficediscoveredwhenitspentmillionschangingitsnametoConsignia.Let’shopethattheProseccoConsorziohasn’tmadeasimilarmistakeinchangingthenameofitseponymousgrapevarietyto‘Glera’.ThecunningideawastoretainthenameProseccoforthedesignatedareaorappellationwithinwhichthewineismade,meaningthatnooneoutsideProseccocancallthewineassuchandwouldbeforcedtonameitafterthegrapevariety.Onehastowonderwhethertheydeliberatelychoseanuglynameasaformofsubterfugeagainstitscompetitorsoutsidetheregion.Thisgenuinesemi-sparklingProseccofromLaJaraisdelightfullysoftandeasywithhintsofappleandquince.Drinknow.Organic.11%alc.
Prosecco Spumante Brut La Jara, Italy NV £12.506bottlesormorepay£10.50
Fully-sparkling dry Prosecco from the Veneto region
“Alifewithoutloveislikeayearwithoutsummer”.Scaleddown,thisproverbcouldequallyread“aweekwithoutbubblesislikeadaywithoutsunshine”.Let’sfaceit,overthelastfewyearsithasbeenharderandhardertoachievetherecommendeddailyintakeofsunbeams,atleastwithoutputtingabigdentinthewallet.Proseccoisanexcellentfillipforthoseinneedofsomeillumination.Thisisatop-notch,fully-sparkling,bonedry,crispandthoroughlyrefreshingexample.Thenoseispureandenergisedwithgentleyetenticingorchardfruitaromas.Thepalatehasalovelysofttexturewithatouchofpeachonthefinishandgreatbalance.Drinknow.Organic.11.5%alc.
Pinot Grigio Rosé Brut, La Jara NV £14.506bottlesormorepay£12.50
Beautiful pink bubbly, a dead ringer for high quality rosé champagne
IffeaturedinaLonelyHeartsadvertisement,theword‘bubbly’actsasapolitenoticeforprospectivecasanovastoexpectsomeonewithajollypersonalityandapenchantforarcticrolls.Iffeaturedinawinelist,however,theword‘bubbly’issimplyacueforcelebration.Thisfantasticsparklingrosé,madefromthepink-skinnedPinotGrigiogrape,hasuniversalappealanddoublesforahighqualityroséchampagne.Itisguaranteedtoputasmileoneventhemostobdurateface.Infact,weservedit‘blind’toagroupofknowledgeablebarristersandnotonlyweretheyamazedtolearnthatitwasn’troséchampagne,someofthemevenbrokeintoabeaminggrimace!Itshowsanelegant,palesalmoncolourandatotallydrypalatewithhintsofwildberries,shortbreadandraspberrysorbet.Lovelybubbly.Drinknow.Organic.11.5%alc.
Sparkling
9
Champagne Eric Lemaire Cuvee Privilege, France NV £24.006bottlesormorepay£21.00
A great value champagne that makes no sacrifice in quality
“Burgundymakesyouthinkofsillythings,Bordeauxmakesyoutalkaboutthem,andChampagnemakesyoudothem”,orsothesayinggoes.Consideryourselfthoroughlywarned,therefore,anddon’tcomecryingtouswhenyouendupinA&Ehavingshardsofglassandphotocopiertonerremovedfromyourbackside.It’sablendof70%PinotMeunier,20%Chardonnayand10%PinotNoir,agorgeousdropwithgreatpurity,lovelyripefruitandatouchofcoconutbiscuit.Thepalateimpresseswithitssofttextureandontheedgesthereisapleasingwispofsherbetalongwithsomenuttynuances.Verysmoothandperfectlybalanced...it’shardtoimagineamoreenjoyableChampagnetosipon.That’ssipon!Drinknow-2012.12%
Champagne Brut Comte Audoin de Dampierre ‘Cuvee des Ambassadeurs NV’ £29.506bottlesormorepay£26.00
Ourmagnificenthousechampagne-fine,complexandintricate
Intermsoftoursofduty,thischampagneisvergingonveteranstatus.CastyoureyeoverpreviousSwiglistsandthereyouwillfindhim,semperfidelis.Allmannerofwhippersnapper,youngpretenderandnextbigthinghavecomeandgone,butDampierrestillabides.Madefrom50%PremierCruChardonnayand50%PremierCruPinotNoir,ithasawonderfullyincisive,tensilebiteofquinceandnectarine,softenedbynotesoftoastedalmondsandoatmeal.ItisservedinalltheFrenchembassiesaroundtheworld(hencethename)andisanextremelyfinematchforFerreroRocherchocolates.Drinknow-2014.12.5%.
Champagne Dom Perignon 2002 £98.00
Rarefied vintage champagne – limited availabilitySomeagreisourallocationofDomPerignon2002,thatifwewerehostingasmallpartyforourparishionersanddecidedtoservenothingotherthanourallottedquota,wewouldstruggletoentertainmorethanacoupleofdiabeticparsonsandanabstemiousmemberortwooftheWomen’sInstitute.Thatsaid,wearegratefulforsmallmercies,particularlyinthisvintage,becausetherehasbeengreatinterestanddemandsincethewinecritic,RobertParker,advisedreadersto“callyourbank...lineupthetruck!”Thewineachieveda96pointscoreinTheWineAdvocateitself,whodescribeditas“aflashy,opulentDomPerignon.”Drinknow-2020.12.5%alc.
10
WhitesTorrontes ‘Pacha Mama’LasMoras,SanJuan,Argentina2009£7.95Dramatic expression of Argentina’s signature white grape varietyThisisasimpletaleofgoodversusevil.Theforcesofgooddominatethenose,wherejoyfulflavoursofpeachandrosepetalfrolicinnocentlyintangerineorchards.It’sacarefreeplace,fulloffloraldelightsandexoticcharms.However,withinthepalate,lurksthenemesisoflassitudeandlistlessness.Acidity.Itarriveslikeacomicbookvillain,laughingmaniacallyasitzapsthoseidlerswithlaserbeamsoflemonandgrapefruit,scatteringtheminalldirections.Thetensionandexcitementinthenarrativelieintheclashbetweenthetwo,whereourhero,Torrontes,ultimatelydefeatstheforcesofevil,sothatthewineshinestriumphantlywithripefruitflavours,whileholdingthatpeskyacidityinaheadlock.Wham!Bam!Kerpow!Itneedsfood,soenjoyitwithfriedchickenorsweetandsourpork.Drinknow.Organic.13%alc.
Konrad Sauvignon Blanc,Marlborough,NewZealand2009£8.95Light-bodied, crisp and pure Kiwi Sauvignon‘Decent’isawordthathasbeenmuscledoutofthelanguagebyburlysuperlatives,butitdeservestobereclaimed,solet’sbringbackdecency(and,whileweareatit,briarpipes,worstedsuitsandmonocles)!Once,a‘decentfellow’wastheveryhigheststampofmerittowhichachapcouldaspire.Today,inthefrenzyofmarketingadjectives,‘decent’soundsalmostarchaic,solet’stakeamomenttocelebrateaverydecentSauvignonBlanc.Isit‘incredible’,‘stunning’or‘outstanding’?No,butit’shonest,archetypalanddelicious.Steely,crispandbrightwithperkyMarlboroughflavoursofgreenappleandlime,it’sathoroughlygoodegg.Drinknow.13.5%alc.(dueearlyDecember2010)
A A Badenhorst Family Wines, ‘Secateurs’ White,SouthAfrica2010£9.50Thrilling and tangy old vine Chenin Blanc from the buzzing Swartland regionAstampedeofwinewritersisanuglysight.Theherdnormallymovesinaslowbovinehuddle,althoughthementionofanall-expenses-paidjunketcansuddenlyturnthemintoaballofdust.WehadthegoodfortunetowitnessthisextraordinarynaturalspectaclewhenwereleasedtheinauguralvintageofAdiBadenhorst’sSecateursWhite2009.Amaelstromofloafersandboatshoescouldbeseenrushingbacktotheirwordprocessors,eagertoclaimbraggingrights.Don’tgetuswrong,wewereextremelygratefulfortheexposure,butwereallyfeelthatthe2010vintageisabigstepupandtakesthewineinamoreexcitingdirection.Ithasafine,incisivenose,withlessofthehoneyedrichnessofthe2009andmoretensionandverve.Thenosetingleswithcitrus,apricotkernelandgrapefruitflavoursandthepalatehasterrificdensity,dryextractandacool,stonyunderbelly.MadefromoldCheninBlancbushvines.Drinkfromnowuntil2014.14%alc.
Pinot Blanc Philippe Zinck,Alsace,France2007£9.95Perfectly mature, creamy, toasty Alsace Pinot BlancAlsaceusedtobelongtoGermanyuntiltheFrenchweregivenitintheir‘partybag’aftertheFirstWorldWar.However,itwouldappearthatGermantraditionsstilllingerinAlsace,notleastthecustomforconfusingwinelabels,becauseguesswhichgrapevarietyisnotnecessarilytobefoundinabottleofPinotBlancfromAlsace.Welldone,topoftheclass.It’stoocomplicatedtoexplainthetechnicalitieshere,butwearepleasedtosaythatthisonedoescontainsomePinotBlancalthoughAuxerroisdominatestheblendat65%.Zinck’s2007isspeakingfluentlynow,withripeyellowfruitsandlightlysautéedmushroomaromasleadingtoasilky,creamypalateandatoastylingeringfinish.Drinknow.12.5%alc.
Rioja Blanco Crianza, Navajas,Spain2007£9.95Aromatically intense white Rioja with lashings of creamy oakTherearefewwinesthatmakequitesuchanimpressionontheolfactorysensesasthisfantasticwhiteRioja.AquickwaftunderhisnosewouldhavehadLazarussittingboltupright.It’sdazzlinglyzesty,toastyandspicy,withlashingsofcreamynewoakswirlingamidsttangypineappleandpreservedlemonflavours.Reallyzingy,zestyandbrightonthepalatewithlotsofclove,staraniseandcandiedlemon.Likethearrivalofanirrepressiblegreataunttopplingyourfurnitureassherushestogreetyou,it’sajoyful,dizzying,boisterousexperience.Madefrom100%Viura.Drinknow.12.5%alc.
11
Sauvignon de Touraine, Domaine Mardon,Loire,France2009£9.95
Juicy, pure and delicious alternative to Sancerre.
It’samatterofpridetobothwinemerchantsandwineenthusiaststofindinexpensiveandpreferable
alternativestofamousnames.ExamplesthatspringtomindareMenetou-SaloninsteadofPouilly-Fumé,
Saint-AubininsteadofPuligny-MontrachetandbinjuiceinsteadofWhiteZinfandel.ThisdelightfulSauvignon
deTouraineisagreatalternativetosomeofthemorefamousnamesoftheLoirevalley,withitsjuicycitrus
flavours,itshintofnettlesandshinkoleafanditsfine,chalkyminerality...andwemeanthatmost
Sancerrelyfolks!Drinkfromnowuntil2012.12.5%alc.
Ampelomeryx, Domaine de Pellehaut,VindePaysdeGascogne2008£10.50
Tangy, spicy, complex blend of four varieties from south west France
Marketresearchhasshownthatwinelabelsfeaturingananimalonthefronthaveapositiveimpacton
consumersandindependenttestshaverevealedthat‘critterlabels’,astheyareaffectionatelyknown,
outperformordinarytablewinelabelsbytwotoone.Theproblemfornewlabeldesignersisfindingnew
animalstouse,whichmightexplainwhythiswineisnamedafteranextinctgenusofherbivorous,even-toed
ungulatecalledanAmpelomeryx.Catchyisn’tit?Thankfully,thewineinsidethebottletranscendsits
dreadfulnameandhasgoneontowintwoprestigiousawards.ItisablendofChardonnay,SauvignonBlanc
andGrosandPetitManseng.Thewinewaspartbarrel-fermentedandhaswonderfullybright,zippyfruit,
characterisedbygrapefruitandginger,enrichedbynotesofalmond,vanillaandpaingrilléfromtheoak,
TheGrosandPetitMansenggiveitasenseofregionalcharacter,reminiscentofaJurançon,providingthe
richtangyacidityandhintofspice.Drinknow-2012.13%alc.
Riesling Trocken, Weingut Winter,Rheinhessen,Germany2009£11.50
Ripe, dry German Riesling pierced by a clean blade of thrilling acidity
Acidsdon’thaveparticularlyattractiveassociations,linkedastheyarewithstomachs,batteriesandrain,so
theytendsnottofeatureasthecentralthemeinmosttastingnotes,butacidsareasvitaltoawine’ssuccess
asthefruitflavoursthatstealsomuchofthedescriptiveglory.So,let’sturnthingsaroundhereandcelebrate
thegreatjobthataciddoes.ThisimmaculatelybalancedRieslingisawonderfulshowcasefortheshimmering,
scintillatingqualitiesofbothtartaricandmalicacid,whichprovidetheincisivesourapplebitethatcomplement
theripe,peachyfruitandsendaboltoflightningthroughtherich,limecordialtextureofthewine’sbody.
ThisisagreatdryRieslingthatworkswellasanaperitiforwithfragrantasianfoods.
Drinknow-2015.12.5%alc.
Buitenverwachting Chardonnay, ConstantiaSouthAfrica2009£11.50
Mouthwatering Chardonnay from the maritime region of Constantia
Forgiveusforbehavinglikepushystageschoolparentsandshovingourreluctantchildforwardfrom
theauditionline-up,butthiswinereallydeservestobeinthespotlight.It’snotsomekaraokeChardonnay,
doinganimpersonationofwhiteBurgundy,it’sareallyfine,characterfulwinethatisproudofitsrootsin
thecool,ocean-influencedvineyardsofConstantia.Wonderfularomasoftoastedpinekernelsandgrilled
almondsfromageinginFrenchoak,togetherwiththefreshiodinetangofoystershellsandafinecitrus
coregiveitcomplexityandfreshness.Extremelygoodvalueandfullofpersonality.
Drinknow-2012.12%alc.
Knappstein ‘Ackland’ Riesling, ClareValley,Australia2009£11.95
Strict, no-nonsense dry Riesling that will whip your palate into shape.
Attention!Eyesfront,shouldersbackandonlyspeakwhenyouarespokento.IamDrillSergeantAckland
andfromnowonIamtheclosestthingyouhavetoamummy.ThatdoesnotmeanIwanttocuddleyou.
ThatdoesnotmeanIcareaboutyou.AttheClareValleyRieslingAcademy,disciplineisyouronlyfriend.
Whenyouleaveyouwillbesharper,brighterandmoreruthlessthanwhenyouarrived.Weweedoutthe
spinelessandtheweak.Ourgraduatesarefocusedindividuals,whippedintoshapebyaprocessof
meticulousselectionandrigoroustraining.Standatease!Platoondismissed.
Drinknow.That’sanorder.12%alc.
Buy Now: 08000 272 272
12
Gewurztraminer, Philippe Zinck,Alsace,France2008£12.50Dazzling, perfectly-balanced Gewurztraminer with pristine fruit characterItsnamemaysoundlikeatypeoffirework(“lighttheGewurztraminer,Bob,it’stimeforthefinale”),butitcomeswithanentirelydifferentsetofsafetyinstructions.Wewouldurgeyoutogetascloseaspossibletothiswineinordertogetmaximumenjoymentandwewouldalsosuggestyoureturntoitimmediatelyformorepleasure.Ithasastarburstofaromasthatwillappealtoloversofthevariety,displayingrosepetals,orangeblossom,lycheeandspiceinawell-defined,beautifullybalancedframethatsteerswellclearofthecommonpitfallsofGewurtraminer(soapytexture,flabbyacidityetc.)andfinishesbright,fresh,pureandlingering.It’snottotallydrybutit’snotobviouslyoff-dryeither.Intermsofsweetness,it’stheequivalentofturquoise.Drinknow-2015.13%alc.
Capolemole Bianco, Marco Carpinetti, Lazio,Italy2009£12.50Refined, stylishly-labelled organic white made just outside RomeThisisaloadofBellone.There’ssomeMalvasiaandTrebbianointheblendtoo,butBelloneistheprincipalgrapevarietythatgivesthiswineitslovely,localidentity.It’saveryfine,organicallyproducedwhitefromthetownofCori,situated30milestothesouthofRome,anddisplaysgentlefloralandfreshherbaromatics,withjuicynectarineandyellowplumflavoursonthepalateandamellowfruitinessthatispure,softanduntouchedbyoak.Elegantlylabelled,thisisastylishwinefordinnerpartyoneupmanship.Drinknow.13%alc.
Petit Chablis, Domaine Simone Tremblay, France2009£12.50Bone dry, refreshing expression of ChardonnayArehumanstheonlymembersoftheanimalkingdomtoexperienceirrationalfear?Doottershaveanirrationalfearofukuleles?Arebadgersscaredofmarzipan?No,ofcoursenot.AreoystersafraidofChablis?Damnrighttheyare,butit’snotremotelyirrational.IfanoysterseesachilledbottleofChablisapproaching,ithaseveryreasontobeterrified.Infact,lyingintheirbedsatnight,oystersscareeachotherwithghoulishtalesoftabasco,shallotvinegarandicecoldChablis.ThisbrilliantPetitChablisgivesyouanalmostpathologicalcravingforcrustacea,thankstoitsmouth-wateringaromasoflemon,greengagesandlime.Thepalateisrefreshinglycrisp,withChablis’classicchalkycoolnessandnacreousminerality.Biodynamic.Drinknow.12%alc.
Chateau Turcaud ‘Cuvée Majeure’, Bordeaux2009£13.50
Sophisticated, barrel-aged, dry white Bordeaux in the style of a GravesPerfectingtheartofmakingabarrel-fermentedSauvignon/Semillonblendisoneofthetrickierbalancingactsinawinemaker’srepertoire.Getitwrongandthewinewilltasteraucous,likeJanet-StreetPorterbeingpulledthroughamangle.Getitrightandallthosewildherbaceousflavoursweavetogetherandworkinperfectharmonywiththespicyoaknotes.Needlesstosay,wewouldn’tsetthistastingnoteupwithsuchaprefaceifthisweren’tanexampleofthelatter.There’salotofcomplexityapparenthereinthisfoodworthy,drywhitewine,withitsnotesoflemongrass,grapefruitoil,nutmegandallspice.Longandfullinthemouth,itgoesextremelywellwithcoquillesStJacques,lobster,fishincaperbuttersauce,roastporkandmostcheeses,particularlygoat’sandblue.Drinknow-2013.13.5%alc.
Buitenverwachting ‘Husseys Vlei’ Sauvignon Blanc, SouthAfrica2009£13.50Distinctive and stimulating single vineyard Sauvignon Blanc from ConstantiaThenamemaylooklikeahazardwarningpostedontheperimeterfenceofanelectricitysub-station,butdon’tletthatputyouoff.Onceyouhaveuntwistedyourtongue,getitreadyforthefinestSauvignonBlancexperiencethatConstantiahastooffer.It’sasinglevineyardoffering,exclusivetoSwigcustomers,andwecan’trecommendithighlyenough.Distinctivenotesofstruckflint,freshfigsandlimejuiceleapfromtheglassandthepalateiswonderfullydry,flintyandherbaceouswithanintenselyzestycoreofcrunchyfruitandfreshlysnappedpeapods.Drinknow-2012.13%alc.
13
Iduna Verdejo, Bodega Vinaguarena, Toro,Spain2009£14.95
Rich and vibrant Verdejo from Toro in north eastern Spain
Whilstthis100%barrel-fermentedVerdejomayneverjoinLaSagradaFamiliaortheRokebyVenus,
itisalittleSpanishmasterpieceinitsownparticularway.It’sabeautifully-workedaffairandathoroughly
enjoyabletipplecombiningrichandvibrantfruitflavoursofgrapefruit,limeandpassionfruitlacedwithwhite
flowers,toast,smokeandsubtleoakspice.Withtimethewineopensupandthesearomasheadtowardsthe
moretropicalendofthefruitspectrum.Ithasanintenseconcentrationoftangylimeandgrapefruitatits
core,fromwhichalltheseotherflavoursfanoutimpressively.Thepalatetingleswithitszestygrapefruit
acidityandthedeftuseofoakreleasesalovelysavouryundercurrentwhichgentlycloaksthefruit.
It’sfine-textured,complexanddelightfullyrefreshing.Drinknow-2012.13%alc.
Kevin Judd Greywacke Sauvignon Blanc,NewZealand2010£14.95
Stylish Sauvignon Blanc made by the former winemaker of Cloudy Bay
Theysaythatnostalgiaisn’twhatitusedtobe,butthiswinecertainlybringsbackhappymemoriesofthe
earlydaysofCloudyBay,whichisn’tsurprising,giventhatKevinJuddwaschiefwinemakertherefor25
years.ThisishissecondvintageofGreywackeandalthoughitisrefreshinglydry,itnonethelesshasa
discreetlyimpressiveconcentrationofripe,succulentfruitwhich,initsreluctancetotryandwinyouover
straightawaywithcaricatureflavours,givesthewinearetrainedpower,likeagarrulouspersonforcedtobe
silentinalibrary.Theflavoursworkharmoniously,withlimesherbet,passionfruitandlemongrassdisplaying
finebalanceandintensity.It’saseriouslystylishSauvignonBlancthatslowlyimpressesitselfuponyouwith
itselegance,complexityandstony,flintycharacter.Drinkitwishsashimi,figandgoat’scheesesalad,
pollomilanese,parmahamandmelonorfreshseafood.Drinknow-2015.13.5%alc.(duemid-December2010)
Roc des Anges, Vieilles Vignes, VindePaysdesPyrenéesBlanc2008£17.00
Richly rewarding offbeat white made from Grenache Gris
Theworldofwhitewineiscontrolledanddominatedbyahandfulofmafiafamilies.Theheadoftheclan,and
capoditutticapi,isDonPinotGrigio,aidedandabettedbyhisconsiglieriDonSauvignonandDonChardonnay.
Togethertheymonopolisewhatgoesinandwhatcomesoutofpracticallyeverybottleofwhitewinethatwe
drink,soit’sincumbentuponustosupportwineslikethisone,thatarecourageousenoughtostanduptothe
mob.Madefrom11separateparcelsofGrenacheGrisvines,between70and100yearsold,itwaschosenby
JancisRobinsonasoneofherfavourite‘offbeat’winesoftheyearandisawonderfullysavouryandflavourful
drywhitewine,packedfullofmineralsandcitrusflavours,suggestinglemon,grapefruit,whiteflowers,
chalkandwetstones.Decantbeforeservingtoenjoyitinallitsglory.Drinknow-2016.13.5%alc.
Ghiaia di Monte, Ca Boffenisio, OltropoPavese,Lombardy,Italy2004£17.50
Serene, elegant Italian white - a blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Riesling
Admitit.Youhaveoneitemofclothingthatneverletsyoudown.Perhapsitbringsoutthecolourofyour
eyesoremphasisesyourpowerfulneckmuscles(ladies,youknowwhoyouare).Wellwehaveawinein
ourwardrobethatshowsusofftobesteffectandprobablymakesuslookbetterthanwereallyare.
ItisthisgorgeousblendofequalpartsSauvignonBlancandRiesling,wheretheSauvignoncomponent
wasagedinFrenchoakbeforethetwowineswereblended.Itispackedwiththelimeflavourstypicalof
bothgrapevarieties,withhintsoflimeblossom,limecordial,candiedlimepeelandsubtlysophisticated
hintsofstruckflintandtoastedoak.ThisisagenuinelystylishnorthernItalianwhitewineandwillreflect
extremelywellonyouwithwhomeveryouchoosetodrinkit.Drinknow.Organic.13%alc.
Lismore Estate Sauvignon Blanc,Greyton,SouthAfrica2009£17.50
Fiendishly alluring, barrel-fermented Sauvignon Blanc from The Cape
Pleaseforgiveourappearance,whilewekeeponeeyeontheestablishedstarsoftheCape,ourfingeron
thepulseofanynoteworthynewcomers,ourfeetfirmlyonthegroundandourothereyeonthecompetition.
LismoreisanexcitingnewestatefromtherecentlydeclaredwinewardofGreyton,about40mileswestof
Stellenbosch.Thisisashimmeringlybrilliantbarrel-fermentedSauvignon,withclassiccracklingnotesof
gooseberry,nettles,lime,blossomandhintsofriperpassionandguavafruitalongsidewispsofchalkand
vanilla.There’ssomuchgoingon!Theperfectlyjudgeduseofoakaddsdimensionandaroundcreaminess
totheswathesofsilkyfruitthatwashoverthepalate.Amedium-tofull-bodied,fiendishlywell-balanced
winethatmakesyoucraveyournextsip.OneofthemoststylishSauvignonsyou’lltaste.
Drinknow-2013.13.8%
www.swig.co.uk
14
Pyramid Valley Riverbrook Vineyard Riesling,NewZealand2008£19.50Scintillating Marlborough Riesling from the inspirational Mike WeersingTosucceedinlife,youneedthreethings:awishbone,abackboneandafunnybone.Thisjaw-droppingSpätlese-styleRieslingfromNewZealandperformsavinoushat-trick.Itoffersintenseandcompellingaromaticsoflime,peach,apricot,orangemarmalade,honey,spice,toastandnotesofpetrolwithamineral,slateyundercurrent.Ahintofbotrytiscomesthrough(theresultofthe25%oflatepicked,noblerotaffectedfruitthatwasincluded)whichaddsintriguetoanalreadyfantasticallycomplexwine.Itisoff-dry,butbarelyleavesthisimpressionthankstothetangyfruitthatwashesoverthepalatetocleanseitofthesweetnessandtheverylively,yetbynomeanssearing,aciditythatdrivesit.Itispowerfullystructuredandfinishesverylong.Animmenselypleasurablewinethatcanbeenjoyedonmultiplelevels,butalwaysleavesyouhungryforyournextsip.Drinknow-2016.13.7%alc.
Bourgogne Blanc, Domaine Roulot, France2008£22.00Jean-Marc Roulot’s Bourgogne Blanc shimmers with citrus and mineralsAfteryouhaveslappedthem,pleaseshowthiswinetoanyonewhosaystheydon’tlikeChardonnay.Onsecondthoughts,don’twasteitonthem,theyprobablydon’tdeserveitanditwillleavemorefortherestofus.Roulot’sBourgogneBlanc2008,madefromChardonnayharvestedfromvineyardsaroundthevillageofMeursault,issharp,bright,salineandlemony,withjustthemeresthintofoak,asdistantassomeoneshuttingadoorintheeastwingofacountryhouse,whenyouarestandinginthewest.Thisiscuttingedge,racy,zestyChardonnayforthosewholikeahightensileexperience.Drinknow-2014.13%alc.
Pyramid Valley Kerner Estate Pinot Blanc, NewZealand2008£22.00A Pinot Blanc with real character and sumptuous richnessMostofthebeliefswehaveabouttheworldarebasedoninductivereasoning.Forinstance,webelievethatthesunwillrisetomorrow,becausethesunhasalwaysriseninthepast.Or,thatDelBoyTrotterfallingthroughtheopenbar-flapwillyetagainbevotedthenation’sfunniestTVmoment.Likewise,whenitcomestoPinotBlanc,empiricalevidenceleadsustoexpectawinethatwillbepleasantandquaffablebutlackingdistinctionorrealcharacter.CueMikeWeersingofPyramidValley.Hehasbarrel-fermentedthegrapesinoldFrenchbarrels,infusingthewinewithassertiveandmouth-wateringaromatics.Alimeandcitrusfruitbackboneisfleshedoutbypeachandbakedapricotfollowedbynotesofbutteredtoast,wetstoneandanundercurrentofoakspice.Ithaspowerandrichnessbutsimultaneouslymanagestoconveydetailandsucculence.Itsshortspellinoakgivesitfantastictextureandweightanditfinisheswithacreamy,nuttyconcentration.Thiswineissimplyscrumptious.Long,complexandveryfood-friendly;alessonindeliciouslydefyingexpectations.Drinknow-2014.14.5%alc.Lismore Estate Viognier, Greyton,SouthAfrica2009£22.50Seductive, buxom expression of Viognier that merits comparison to Condrieu AllowusintroduceyoutotheJessicaRabbitofourWinterList.Pleaseexcuseusourblushes,awkwardsmiles,clammypalmsandtongue-tiedness…wearecompletelysmitten.Sheisavoluptuous,lusciousfemmefatale,oozingcharisma,eleganceandsophisticationandcommandingattentionwherevershegoes.Ifyou’renotfeelingweak-kneedafterjustonesip,webegyoutocheckyourpulse.Shebewitcheswithherexoticperfumeofpeach,apricot,tinnedmandarinsandinflectionsofvanillacream,toast,honeysuckle,jasmineandspice.Sheisunctuousyetnotovertlyso;sexywithoutbeingtarty;amagicalwinedisplayingallthearomaticallureandcomplexityofCondrieu.Rich,yetfineandbright,sheisadazzlingexampleofViognieratitsverybest.Drinknow-2013.14.5%
Saint Aubin Blanc ‘La Princée’ DomaineHubertLamy,Burgundy,France2008£22.50This is one of a number of fabulous St Aubin cuvées from this producerWeallhavespecificcriteriaagainstwhichweevaluatewhetherwecanbefriendswithsomeoneornot.Somemakejudgementsbasedonflippantmatters,liketheotherperson’stasteinmusic,whereassomejudgebymoreserious,ideologicalconcerns,likewhethertheotherpersonbelievesincapitalpunishmentforParisHiltonornot.WejudgebywhetherornotyoulikethewinesofDomaineHubertLamy.Ifyouwanttogettoknowusbetter,youwillhavetoclearthishurdleorwesimplycan’tbefriends.WeloveLamy’sstyleofzingy,sherbet-laced,streamlinedwhiteBurgundy,whichsetsoffthesprinklersysteminyourmouthwithitsbracingcombinationofcool,white-stonemineralsandlemonyacidity.ThissinewyChardonnaywillgainweightoverthenextfewyears,ifyoupreferitricherandrounder,butwelovetodrinkitonrelease,becauseitofferssuchtantalisingrefreshment.Don’tyouthink?Drinknow-2016.13%alc.
15
Les Clos Perdus ‘L’Extrême’, VindePaysCatalanes,France2009£23.50
Exhileratingly tangy southern French white made from Grenache Gris and Blanc
InKarelReisz’s1960film,‘SaturdayNight,SundayMorning’,AlbertFinney’scharacter,ArthurSeaton,
uttersthegreatline:“I’moutforagoodtime-alltherestispropaganda!”Whetherornotthewriterintended
todistilthewholeparadoxofhumanexistenceintoasinglepithyremarkisamootpoint,butit’sagreatline
andappliestoeveryaspectoflife.Whatdowewantfromaglassofwine,forexample,beyondagoodtime?
Allthemarketingflannelisjustpropaganda.Here’sawinethathasnobacklabelandconsequentlynocod
philosophy.Instead,itsimplydeliversravishingrefreshmentinitsscintillatingburstoftangy,smoky,flinty,
mineral-ladencitrusflavours,likeagreatwhiteBurgundy,butvinifiedintheSouth.Simplybrilliantandnot
tobemissed.AblendofGrenacheGrisandGrenacheBlanc.Drinknow-2014.13.5%alc.
Milouise, Domaine Padié, VinsdePaysCatalanes,France2009£25.00
Only a humble Vin de Pays by name, but a Grand Cru white by nature
Didyouknowthat,despitetheGermanicumlaut,thefashionablefurniturecompanyMöbenwasactuallysetup
byacoupleofMancunianscalledMoandBen?Likewise,thiswine’sname,Milouise,isacontractionofthenames
MilouandLouise,thegrandparentsofwinemakerJean-PhilippePadié.It’salimitedcuvée,madefromablendof
twolargebarrelsofGrenacheBlancandGrissourcedfromthebestvineyardparcelsonhisestate.Jean-Philippe
namedthefirstbarrel‘Milou’,becauseitwasharvestedearlierandwasconsequentlyleaner,tautandsinewylike
his‘Pépé’.Theotherbarrel,namedafterhisgrandma,Louise,washarvestedlaterandwasmoregenerous,round
andfull-bodied.AsJean-Philippesays,theyarereunitedagainandcanbeginanewstorytogether.Thewineitself
isnothingshortofamasterpieceandisalivewithsappy,pithy,smoky,earthyflavours,swathedinsweet
grapefruit,spicedlemonandnotesofstruckmatchandquartzdust.Drinknow-2018.13.5%alc.
A A Badenhorst Family White, CoastalOrigin,SouthAfrica2008£24.00
Maverick genius Adi Badenhorst has fashioned a stunning white blend
CheninBlanc(29%),Roussanne(14%),GrenacheBlanc(14%),Viognier(14%)Verdelho
(14%),Chardonnay(14%),SauvignonBlanc(0.5%),KitchenSink(0%).Therulebook
wasquiteemphaticallytornupwhenAdiBadenhorstburstontothescene.Hislargerthan
lifepersonalityandpassionradiatethroughthewineyetwithinanintricateandpoised
framework.It’sakaleidoscopicblendofsevenvarietieswhichhypnotisesyouwithshifting
patternsofflavour.Eachcomponentplaysitspartwithgreatharmony,withtheChardonnay
givingripegrapefruitandpeachrichness,theViogniergivingthesubtleapricotandfloral
notes,theRoussanneaddingfatnessandhoneyandpearnotes,andtheCheninBlanc
providingthecuttingedgeandtangyfreshness.ItspendsalittletimeinFrenchoakto
giveititssofttexture,anunderlyingspiceandacreamyedgetoshadetheacidity.
Thefinalimpressionisofadelicatelyfragrantwinewithwonderfulfruitvolume,
amoreishpalateofcreamyorchardfruitsandaharnessedenergythatisjustwaiting
tobeunleashed.Healthwarning:noknownvaccinationagainsttheBadenhorstbug.
Drinknow-2016.14.5%alc.
Yabby Lake Chardonnay, MorningtonPeninsula,Australia2008£24.00
Finesse, balance, complexity – what more can you ask for?
OneofVictoria’smostskilledwinemakers,TomCarson,hascraftedherewhatcanonlybe
describedasa“genuinebeauty,mate”.Thiswineshimmers,workingitsmagicwithalltheprecision
andsleeknessofaSwissQuartzwatch.Itisincrediblypureandrefinedyetwithanimplicitrichness,
awinethatgainsextradimensionthelongeritisopened.Ondayone,itisultra-fine,tautandminerally
withahintofstruckmatch;ondaytwoithasrelaxedalittleandoffersmoreexpressivesavouryand
citrusaromasandagentleraspecttothepalate;ondaythreeitreallycomesalivewithbeautifully
purelemon,grapefruitandasubtlenuttiness,whichcomplementtheround,richandimpressively
concentratedbody,allfocusedtowardsanintenseandexceedinglyelegantmineralfinish.
It’sastunningChardonnay,whichhasanunmistakeablesenseoftimeandplace.
ExemplaryBurgundy-styleChardonnay.Drinknow-2015.13%alc.
Buy Now: 08000 272 272
16
Fixin, Maison Alex Gambal, Burgundy,France2007£24.00
Tense, edgy, exciting white Burgundy from the northern appellation of Fixin
Whentastingwinesinfrontofthewinemaker,there’sacodedlookthatwegiveeac
hothertosignifythat
we’veclockedsomethingspecial.There’sanotherlookthatwegiveeachothertos
ignifythatwehaveclocked
somethingunspeakable,butthat’susuallyaccompaniedbythesoundofretching,s
oit’sslightlyredundant.
WhenwewereinthecellarsofAlexGambal,wesimultaneouslypeeredateachothe
roverournotebooksto
showthatthiswine’sbeautyhadnotescapedourattention.ItcomesfromoneofBu
rgundy’smostnortherly
appellations,Fixin,whichisbetterknownforredwines,but,asAlexexplained,the
soilisalmostidenticalto
thatfoundinPuligny-Montrachet,soit’smuchmoresuitableforChardonnay.Only
twobarrelswereavailable
andweboughtbothofthem.ItisabeautifulwhiteBurgundy,withtheflinty,mine
ral,gun-smokeintrigue
thatwefindsoappealingonthenoseandafine,nutty,toasty,lemonandlimepala
te.
Aracy,ratherthanbutterystyle.Drinknow–2015.13.5%alc.
Palladius Eben Sadie, Swartland,SouthAfrica2008£32.00
The John Platter Guide’s ‘White Wine of the Year’ and deservedly so
Althoughwehadn’tseenhimfortwoyears,whenwelastvisitedEbenSadie,hedis
pensedwiththeceremony
ofhandshakingandputusstraighttowork,helpinghimunloadtwentybrandnew
barrelsfromthebackof
alorrythathadjustarrivedatthewinery.Blasphemyandsomeloudestimatesas
totheprobableweightof
anoakbarrelensued.Althoughhelovestochat,nothingcomesbetweenEbenand
hiswinesandwewereput
undernoillusionastoourplaceinthehierarchy.HeiswithoutdoubtSouthAfrica’
smostthought-provoking
winemaker,constantlychallengingthestatusquoandbringingradicalideastothe
vineyardandcellar.
Atruemaverick,whosebeliefthat“wherethereispracticality,youseldomhavego
odwine’”isamotto
thatallwinemakersshouldhavetattooedontheirarm.HisPalladius2008isastun
ningblendof8
differentvarieties(includingCheninBlanc,GrenacheBlanc,Clairette,Viognier,Ch
ardonnay,Palomino
andRoussanne)andispackedwithvividcitrusandcoolstonefruitflavoursenlive
nedbycrackling
quartz-likemineralityandahintofquinineandlemonrind.Thisissophisticationin
abottle,awine
thatisasenigmaticasitiscompulsive.Itwillgiveenormouspleasureasitunwind
soverthenext
sixyears.Drinknow-2016.14.5%alc.
Domaine Serene Clos du Soleil Vineyard Chardonnay, Oregon2007£38.00
Clever, clever stuff – a gloriously rich and creamy yet incisive Chardonnay
WhenitcomestoChardonnay,wewouldprobablyhavetodescribeourtasteassubm
issive.Welike
Chardonnaysthatcrackthewhipanddon’ttakenoforananswer,winesthatkeepo
urpalatesinline
withsharpnessandbite,treatingusmean,butkeepinguskeen.However,sometime
swejustwanttobe
mollycoddledandthisisawinethatwrapsyouupinsoft,fluffyeiderdown.Ithasa
delightfulnoseoforange
drizzlecake,lemonsyllabubandcrèmebrulée.Thebuxom,creamytextureofthe
palateenfoldsyouinits
charms,withweightypeachandlimeflavours,underscoredbyverysubtleoakand
asofteningrichnessof
whitebutterandclottedcream.Itgrabsyourattention,notwithflashynewoak(al
thoughitdoessee48%),
butwithextraordinaryfruitintensityandtheconfidencetoshowcasesimplystun
ningpurity.Bottomsup!
Drinknow-2014.14%alc.
Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru LesChauméesP.Colin,Burgundy2008£40.00
Heart-stoppingly beautiful white Burgundy and Decanter award winner
Youknowthat‘butterfly’sensation,whereyourstomachclenchesandunclenches
uncontrollably,asif
fluttering?It’saformofnervousanxiety,oftenapreludetoahighlyanticipatedev
ent,likeChristmasEve.
Itmaynothappensomuchthesedays,but,asakid,singingcarolsoutofkeyunder
anill-fittingbobblehat,
thebutterflieswouldstarttotakeflight.Knowingthatthereisabottleofthisbeaut
ifulChardonnayinthe
fridge,rekindlesthosefamiliarandwelcomefeelings.Itisatoncesuperfineandsu
perconcentratedwith
swathesoflime,preservedlemon,citruspeelandgrapefruitpenetratingthesense
sfollowedbyadelicious
butteredtoastcharacter,tongue-tinglingmineralsandallthiscappedoffbyamou
thwateringlemonacidity.
Bright,focusedandengagingwithafinishthatreallylingers.ItwasthetopChassa
gne-Montrachet
andwinnerofaFiveStarawardinDecanterMagazine’sTop100Chassagne-andP
uligny-Montrachets
2008.Drinknow-2018.13.5%alc.
17
RoséRosado Crianza, Bodegas Navajas,Rioja,Spain2007£11.00A rich Spanish Rosé with an extrovert characterWewouldn’tgoasfarastosuggestthatthiswineshouldhaveawarningonthelabel,butyoushouldbealertedtothefactthatthisisnoordinaryrosé.Banishanynotionsyoumayhaveofsubtle,low-keyrosésbehavingliketimidwallflowersatadance.Thisoneslidesontothedanceflooronitsknees,wearingacoral-colouredshirtandenoughcolognetokillasmallmammal.Madefrom60%Garnachaand40%Viura,itswaggersaboutwithitsshirtopen,waftingnotesofcoconutliqueurandstrawberrysmoothiewithasplashofvanillaessenceandorangecream.Itisfairlyfull-bodiedforarosé,withacreamytextureandflavoursechoingthenose.Thewholeextravaganzaisbroughtalivewitharefreshingtwistoforangeacidity.Drinknow.13%alc.
RedsCape Chamonix Rouge, SouthAfrica2007£7.95
One of the best value red wines money can buyThekeen-eyedamongyoumighthavenoticedthiscrackingblendofCabernetSauvignon,Merlot,MalbecandPetitVerdotonlastyear’sWinterList,butitmeritsinclusionagainontwocounts.Firstly,itisunequivocallyoneofthebestvalueredwinesonthemarketandassuchitwouldbefoolishofustooverlookitforfearofbeingdeemedrepetitive.Secondly,itwouldbefoolishofustooverlookitforfearofbeingdeemedrepetitive.IthastakenanotherleapforwardsincelastChristmasanditslightisblazingbrightwithitsabundanceofripered,blackandpurpleberryflavoursplusahintofspice.Full-flavouredandwithasupplenessrarelyfoundatthisprice.Drinknow-2013.13.5%alc.
Rioja Crianza ‘Aclys’, BodegasMurua,Spain2006£8.50Gentle, juicy, old-fashioned Rioja and a real bargainLowexpectationsfomentsuspicion,whilehighexpectationsleadtodisappointment,sowearekeenforyoutoapproachthisinexpensivewinewithjusttherightlevelofcircumspection.Imaginesomeonehasinvitedyoutoaplayinaroomaboveapubandyougoalongwithunderstandabletrepidation,butfindthatitisbetterthanyouhadexpectedandyoutellafewfriendsaboutit.That’stheframeofmindinwhichwewouldaskyoutolookatthishumble£8.50Rioja.Itsgentlecharacteroffersmellow,sun-kissedredfruits,spicypepperandcoconutflavourswithinabright,juicy,medium-bodiedframe.Drinknow-2011.14%alc.
St Ilia Pinot Noir,ThracianValley,Bulgaria2006£8.95An extraordinary bargain and a double for beautiful red BurgundyAccordingto‘TheBumperBookofOldTricks’,theoldesttrickinthebookisthefamous‘taponthewrongshoulder’routine,aspracticedbytheancientEgyptiansanddepictedinmanyoftheirwallpaintings.Thesecondoldesttrickinthebookisslippingsomeoneacheapwineasanimposterforamoreexpensiveone.We’vetriedithundredsoftimesanditneverfailstotickleuswhensomeonegetsitwrong,particularlywhentheirconvictionisunshakeable.Well,wethinkthisPinotNoiristhebestwinewehaveeverfoundforthisgame.Please,please,pleasepouritintoadecanterandserveit‘blind’toanopinionatedwinebuffandwatchthemstutterandsplutterasyourevealthatitisaninexpensiveBulgarianPinotNoirandnotthedelightfullyetherealChambolle-MusignyPremierCruthattheyhadassumedittobe.It’sunbelievablybrilliantvalue,billowingwithheadyscentsofsweetstrawberryjuicesoakedintosandalwood,exoticspicesfromaMoroccansouk,cinnamontoast,sous-boisandsweetcherry.Itistoothsomeandround,withalighttomediumbody,ahintofmaturityandperkyrhubarbacidity.Highlyrecommended.Drinknow.13.5%alc.
www.swig.co.uk
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Korta Barrel Selection Carmenere Reserve,LontueValley,Chile2008£8.95Dark, intense and fragrant Carmenere packed with ripe fruit and toasty oakSteak!There’ssomethingaboutfull-bodiedSouthAmericanredwinesthathasasubliminaleffectontheappetite.Steak!InthecaseofthisrichandvelvetyChileanCarmenere,it’sthecombinationofspicyoakanddarkcassisfruitthatsetsyourtummyrumbling.Steak!Eventhedeep,grainy,purplecolour,promisingasmooth,satisfyingtexture,hasasuggestivetriggerthatturnsthoughtstodinnertime.Steak!AllthathighaltitudeChileansunshinebringsoutreallyvividfruitflavours,aswellasfinetopnotesofviolets,cocoaandblackcurrantleaf,allcryingoutforsomethingjuicytoeat.Steak!Thebalancebetweenthevoluptuoussweetfruitandthesavoury,fragrantwoodmakesyoupainfullyawareofyourownhunger.Ifwecomeupwithanyfood-matchingideas,we’llletyouknow.Drinknow-2014.14.5%alc.
Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve, Zagreus,ThracianValley,Bulgaria2006£8.95A Bulgarian Cabernet Sauvignon full of mellow autumnal fruitfulnessAcoupleofyearsago,wewouldhavestartedthistastingnotewithadefensivepostureandanamusinglywhimsicalentreatytotrysomethingoutsideyourcomfortzone,butweliketothinkthatwehaveallgrownupabitsincethenandlearnedtoloveBulgarianwines.Well,someofthem.Thishigh-tonedCabernetSauvignonsharesgreatersimilaritieswithTuscanorevenPiedmontredsthanBordeauxorNewWorldCabernets.Onthenoseitshowsnutmeg,orangespiceandsautéedplumskinssuggestingautumnleavesandwoodshedsandthepalateisbrightandtangy,withgrainytanninsandnotesofkirschandchocolate.Drinknow-2012.13%alc.
Copertino, Azienda Monaci, Puglia,Italy2007£8.95A simply gorgeous and sweetly succulent red from the south of Italy Youcanpleasesomeofthepeopleallofthetime,youcanpleaseallofthepeoplesomeofthetime,butthiswinewillpleaseallofthepeopleallofthetime.Asageneralrule,thelowerdownthepricescaleonegoes,thelessawinetendstotasteofitsoriginsandthemoregenericitbecomes.Well,here’safabulousexceptiontothatrule.WonderfullytruesouthernItalianaromasofsweetcherryandlooseteaatfirstthenthemorespecificCopertinocharacteremerges,displayinggorgeoushintsofmahogany,cherrycompote,forestfloor,fruit-drenchedwoodandsunnytomatoes.Ithasjuicy,ripeblackcurrantsoftnessatitscentre,asuppletexturewiththemeresthintoftanninsanditisrefreshedbyorangecitrusacidity.Plentyofberryripeness,sweetlysucculent,onlymedium-bodiedandfulltothebrimwithPuglianpersonality.Madefrom100%Negroamaro.Drinknow-2012.13%alc.
A A Badenhorst Secateurs Red, SouthAfrica2009£9.95Another gem from Adi Badenhorst – a wine that is hearty and full of soulAfree-spirited,footlooseredwinemadefromapatchworkofSouthernRhonevarieties,namelyShiraz,Carignan,Cinsault,GrenacheandMourvedre,plusasplashofCabernetSauvignon.It’sawinethatwalksinbarefeetandlovestofeelthewarmthofthesunonitsskin.MostofthegrapescomefromtheSwartland,apioneeringcommunitynorthofStellenboschpopulatedbyambitiousyoungwinemakers,andthefeistycharacteroftheregionshinesthroughinthiswine.Itfreewheelsacrossthepalatewithhappy-go-luckyflavoursofrich,ripebramblefruits,liftedbyperfumedtopnotesofspice,hillsideherbs,crackedblackpepperandwoodsmoke.Ithasanimmediatedrinkabilityfactorbutwillalsodevelopwonderfullyoverthenextcoupleofyears.Allowittoopenupintheglassforafewminutesanddrinkwithheartyfarelikebangersandmashorcottagepie.Drinknow-2016.14.5%alc.
19
Mullineux ‘Kloof Street’ Red, SouthAfrica2008£9.95
Sweetly-perfumed like a northern Rhone red and great value
EnjoyingabottleofthisblendofMourvedre(50%),Syrah(44%)andCarignan(6%)islikegoingtoseeone
ofyourfavouritebandsplayanacousticsetatanintimatevenuewhilstyousitinthefrontrowsoakingup
theatmosphere.Strippedbacktothebareminimum,withnospecialeffects,noauto-tuning,justashowcase
ofrawtalentinitsmostexposedyetenjoyableform,iteffortlesslyshowcasesanarrayofsweetwildberry
fruits,incenseandsomevioletandlavendertopnotesakintothoseyoumightfindinaCrozes-Hermitage.
Thepalateisfullofflavour,brightandsilkywithdeliciouslyjuicyherbal-tingedfruit.Somewinesrequire
carefulscrutiny,thiswineasksyoutositbackandletitdoallthework.Drinknow.13.5%alc.
Chianti Rufina Del Mulino, Lavacchio,Tuscany,Italy2007£9.95
The great 2007 vintage in Tuscany has brought the best out of this terrific Chianti
Themostusefulthingaboutgreatvintages,suchas2007inTuscany,isthewaythebasicwinessneakup
behindthepremiumwineswhiletheyarenotlooking,likeinthechildren’sgame‘Grandmother’sFootsteps’.
TheRiservasmaythinkthatthebasicChiantisarealongwaybehindthem,butiftheyspinroundthey’ll
discoverabigpairofeyesstaringbackatthem!Thebenefitsconferredbynatureinagoodyearallowthe
gapinqualitytodiminishandyoucanpickupsomegreatbargains,likethissoftandsuppleRufinafromthe
north-easternzoneofChianti.ItisfullofbeautifulTuscanflavoursofcherry,sandalwood,liquorice,tobacco
andleatherheldsoftlywithinamedium-bodiedframethatshowsjustagentlegripoftanninsthatnever
pinches.Drinknow.13%alc.
Las Moras ‘Black Label’ Bonarda, SanJuan,Argentina2008£9.95
Voluptuously fruit rich Bonarda not from Italy, but Argentina
TheItaliansholdfirmtotheideathatBonardaisanItaliangrapevariety,butthereisconsiderably
moreBonardaplantedinArgentinathanItaly,whichisabitcrazy.Imaginethat,acountrylayingclaim
tosomethingthatshouldrightfullybelongtoArgentina!Honestly,it’sdisgraceful.Anyway,thisArgentine
Bonardastruckusasarealbargain.Theysayyoueatwithyoureyes,butyoudrinkwithyoureyestoo
andthedeep,richrubycolourtingedwithpurpleisimmediatelyappealing.Thenosehasagloriousarray
ofblackcurrantpastilles,roastedcoffeebeans,violetsandvanillathatleadstoanintenselyfruitypalate.
Astheappearanceleadsyoutoexpect,ithasasmooth,fine-grainedtexturewithripetanninsandalittle
creamyoakonthefinish.IfyoulikeafruityMalbecorShirazthenthisisadeliciousandwell-priced
alternative.Drinkfromnow-2015.14%alc.
Munia Crianza,Toro,Spain2006£9.95
A classy Tempranillo with the beautiful fine-grained texture of a new wave Rioja
ForrestGumpwouldlikethiswine.It’sarichTorored,madefrom100%TintadeToro(thelocalname
forTempranillo),fermentedandmaturedinFrenchoakforoneyear,andtastesverymuchlikelifeitself.
Well,aboxofchocolatesanyway.Ithasthesophisticated,fine-grainedtextureofamoreseriouswine,
withthrillingdarkfruittanginessamidstcreamyberryflavours,orangechocolateliqueur,caramel,
liquoriceandblackberry.Theintensefruitsparswiththenaturalacidityandtheirtumblingplayfight
givesthewineitsmomentum,cleansingandcoatingthepalateinturn.It’sawinethatcandoubleas
asmartdinnerpartywine,particularlyifdecantedforhalfanhourpriortothemeal.
Drinknow-2014.14.5%alc.
Cotes-du-Rhone ‘Les Plates Pierres’,DomaineBrugaliere,France2007£9.95
Gently fragrant and supple blend of Grenache and Syrah
Whilethiswinemaylackthecinematicsweeptomerit‘bigscreen’status,itcertainlyfallsinto
thecategoryofhighlysuccessfulsitcomandthere’snoshameinthat.Afterall,FawltyTowers
neverfelttheneedtooutreachitsgrasp.MadefromtwothirdsGrenacheandonethirdSyrah,
itisafresh,fragrantandjuicywinewithafleshycoreofblackberries,raspberriesanda
sprinklingofcrackedblackpepper,violets,garrigueherbsandsweetspices.Itfallsinto
thetraditionalcampofsouthernRhoneredsshowcasingitsfruitandperfumeratherthan
‘distracting’withtheuseofoak.Itseasy-goinganddelicatestylemeansyoucanenjoy
itwithorwithoutfood.Notricks,nogames,justaclassicCotes-du-Rhone
performingexactlyasyouwouldwish.Drinknow.13.5%alc.
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Hochar Pere et Fils by Chateau Musar, BekaaValley,Lebanon2003£11.00
This beautiful baby Chateau Musar has all the aroma and charm of its big brother
ThethingabouttributebandslikeOneStepBehind(Madness),AreWeThem(REM),
Oasisn’t(Oasis)and,ourpersonalfavourite,anEnglishBonJovicoverbandcalledByJovi,
isthattheyaresometimesmorefuntowatchthantherealthing.Well,inthesamevein,we
wereunanimousinthinkingthattheHocharPereetFils2003(nottobeconfusedwiththe
ChateauMusarEstate2003)wasmoreenjoyablethantheheadlineact.Wearechoosingour
wordscarefullywhenwesay‘moreenjoyable’andnot‘better’,becausetheChateauMusar
2003isagreatwine,butthelighterstyleoftheHocharreallyworksinthisvintageand
itschorusofmelodiousflavoursisreminiscentofasunnyCotesduRhone,butthere’salso
acoolgraphitemineralitythathintsatmatureBordeauxandahigh-tonedqualityakinto
Barolo.Drinknow-2012.13%alc.
Pinot Noir, Edoardo Miroglio,Bulgaria2007£12.50
Fortune favours the brave and this is a truly wonderful Pinot Noir for the price
Blindtastingisahumblingexperience.You’reforcedtoletgoofeverything–ego,prejudice,
pre-conceivednotions–andjudgethewineinfrontofyouwithonlyyoursenses.Hadweseen
theword‘Bulgaria’onthelabel,there’snodoubtthatwewouldhaveapproachedthiswinewiththe
circumspectionofsomeoneapproachingroadkillwithalongstick.Buthowwrongwewouldhavebeen
andhowwewouldhavelivedtoregretournarrow-mindedness,forthisPinotNoirisnothinglessthan
first-rateandbrilliantvalue.Itsharesallthecharmandbeautifuloakintegrationofareallygoodred
Burgundywithitsclassicsoftredfruitsandmorellocherrycharacterinterlacedwithsmokyspice
andforestfloornotes.Ithasperfume,classandelegance,awinewithsomuchmoretoitthanmeets
theeyeandwhichwillrewardyouamply...ifyoumaketheefforttogettoknowit.
Drinknow-2013.13.5%alc.
Vinica, Zagreus Winery, Bulgaria2008£12.50
A great interpretation of Amarone using the Mavrud grape
TheMavrudgrapesthatmakeupthisuniquewineweredriedonstrawmatsfor3months
beforefermentation,concentratingandsofteningthesugarsandflavours,soitisboundtostand
comparisontoAmarone,butit’snotquiteasdenseorvoluptuousasthat.Whatisremarkable,
though,isthatdespiteallthetimespentdryingonracks,thefruitissocleanandpolished.
Ithasacomfortinglyripenoseofrichdamsons,kirschanddarkchocolate,withasimilarly
lushfruitcharacteronthepalate,butwithawonderfulfreshnessandsucculencethat
dominatesproceedings.Yesit’sfull-bodied,yesit’sdeepandbrooding,butitalsoglides
likebigmanwhocandance.Drinknow-2015.14.5%alc.
Silene Olevano Romano di Cesanese, CantinaCiolli,Lazio,Italy2006£13.50
Beguiling wine made from the Cesanese grape, similar in weight to a Pinot Noir
LittleRedRidingHoodstrayedfromthepathandshesurvivedtotellthetale,albeitcoveredinlupine
gastricjuices,soit’sworthventuringintothedarkwoodsonceinawhile.TakethisunusualLazio
red,forexample,madefromthelocalCesanesegrape.Ithastheherbal,autumnalqualityofaTuscan
wine,thefragranceandbodyofaPinotNoirandanearthypepperyqualityreminiscentofCotes-du-
Rhone.Onthenoseitcharmswithitswarmdarkfruitcharacterandnotesofoldoakspice,herbs,
mushrooms,orangerindandasubtlearomaofautumnleaves.Onthepalateitisbrightandjuicywith
alovelysoftmouthfeelwhichiscounteractedbyalively,slightlytangyacidity.Winewriter,Jamie
Goode,tookourchallengeandwrote:“Thisisjustfantasticstuff.Wonderfullysweet,complexcherry
andherbnosewithcuredmeatandahintofmanurecharacter.Thepalateissweetandelegant
withlovelyprecisiontothecherryfruitwithcomplexherby,sappy,spicynotesaddingreal
interest.Iloveit.93ponts”Drinknow.13.5%alc.
21
Passion Has Red Lips by Some Young Punks, SouthAustralia2009£13.50A dramatic red, inspired by the pulp fiction novels of the 1950sMcGuireturnedhisbackontheemptywarehouseandlitacigarette.Forensicshaddrawnablankandwereheadingbacktotheprecinct,thelightsoftheircarsflickeringintonothingthroughthetwilight.Hedrewdowndeeplyonthesmokeandwalkedtowardsthewatertower,thegravelcrunchingunderthethinsolesofhisbrogues.Howcouldawholevintagedisappearwithouttrace?Hestoppedsuddenly,hisinstinctsablaze.Somethingaheadofhimglistenedintheshortgrass.Abullet?Hethrewhiscigarettedownandpickedupthegoldenchamber,turningitbetweenhisfingersinthefadingdusklight.Lipstick.Redlipstick.Suddenly,itallmadesense.ColMcBryde,JenGardnerandNicBourkearethethreeYoungPunksresponsibleforinjectingsomemelodramaintotheAustralianwinesceneandtheirexcitingcollectionincludesthisthriller,ablendof55%CabernetSauvignonand45%Shiraz.It’safullthrottle,highoctanecliffhanger,fullofdarksecretsandedgeofseatsuspense.Drinknow-2012.14%alc.
Pascual Toso Malbec Reserve, Mendoza,Argentina2008£13.95Succulent, fragrant Malbec with beautifully judged oakOakshouldperformthefunctionofabridalveil,allowingthebeautyofwhatliesbeneathtobeglimpsedthroughatranslucentlayer.Consequently,wedding-dressdesignershavetraditionallyshiedawayfromusingwoolfortheveiland,similarly,winemakerstendtoshyawayfromsmotheringtheirfruitunderathickblanketofoak.ThisgloriousMalbechasthebalancejustright,withthevanilla-scentedoakallowingthewine’sbeautytoradiate.Subtlelayersofviolets,blackcurrantcordial,whitechocolateandsandalwoodrevealthemselvesasthewineopensup.Themouthfeelissmoothandcool,withfine-grained,velvetytanninstransportingtheflavourswiththetangyberryaciditythatkeepsthewinefreshandpure.Drinkfromnowuntil2014.14%alc.
Buitenverwachting Cabernet Franc, Constantia,SouthAfrica2006£14.50Effortlessly classy doppelganger for a Right Bank BordeauxHere’salittleSwigexclusive.WhenwewereatBuitenverwachting,wetastedthiswinefromtanknumber57,inwhichitwassettlingbeforeblending,andbeggedtheowner,LarsMaack,nottoletitdisappearintotheblendbuttobottleitseparatelyforusandheagreed.Weweredelighted,becauseitwasclearlyanindividualparcelofsomedistinctionanddeservedtoshineonitsown.Ithasthewonderfullyliftedperfumeandsweet,leafyredberryscentsofclassicCabernetFranc,intertwinedwithcherry,stewedplum,pencilshavingsandloamysoil.Thepalateisopenandhighlyexpressivewithaconcentrated,juicycoreandacomplexherbalcharacterparticulartothisvariety,oneoftheclassicrightbankBordeauxgrapes.Itdrinkssuperblynow,asitisfleshyandrefreshing,butwillrewardafewyearsinthecellar.Drinknow-2015.13.5%alc.
Durius Tempranillo-Merlot, CastillayLeon,Spain2004£14.50Fabulous ripe fruit and exuberant new oak makes this a real had-turnerToparaphraseGertrudeStein,“writingaboutwineislikedancingaboutarchitecture”.It’sfrustratinghavingtorelyonwordstoconveysomethingasintangibleasflavour,particularlywhenawineissodeliciousthattheflavoursarealmostindescribable.Weareforcedintoanalogies,whichis,ineffect,describingsomethingintermsofthatwhichitisn’t.WhatwewouldreallylovetodoisjustpouryouaglassofthisSpanishnectar,becauseitfloodsyoursenseswiththewonderfulalchemythatcomesfromsoakingspectacularlyripe,purefruitinbeautifulFrenchoakfor2years.Theresultliessomewhereintheintersectionbetweendarkplums,vanilla,incense,camphor,polish,inkandblackcurrantsorbet.Ihopethatevokessomethinghedonisticanddelightful(ifnot,blameme,notthewine),becausethisfull-bodiedblendofTempranilloandMerlotisintheprimeofitslifeandawashwithmultiplelayersofharmonious,rich,plushfruit.Drinkfromnow-2015.14.7%alc.
Buy Now: 08000 272 272
22
‘Red Claw’ Pinot Noir by Yabby Lake, Australia2008£14.95Very pure and dangerously seductive Pinot Noir from the Mornington Peninsula, WespeakwithonevoicewhenwesaythatwelikeourPinotNoirfulloffresh,pure,primaryfruit.WearenotwhollyaversetomaturePinotNoirthattakesonsomeoftherenowned‘barnyard’flavoursassociatedwiththevariety,butwecertainlydrawthelinewhenitcomestoovermaturePinotthatsmellslikeapaddockafteranoutbreakofequinee-colivirus.Banishthatimagefromyourmind,becauseTomCarson’s‘RedClaw’PinotNoiriswonderfullypurewithmelt-in-the-mouthflavoursofcreamystrawberry,brightcherry,warmspiceandvanilla.Itismadeinalighter,lessstructuredstylethantheestatewineandisintendedtobedrunkyoung.Itwillnodoubttakeonsomeofthemoresavoury,developedflavoursifthatisyourpredilectionbutifyouarelikeus,wesuggestdrinkingitfromnowuntil2013.Awide-bowledBurgundyglass,orevenabrandyglass,reallyhelpstobringouttheflavours.14%alc.
The Squid’s Fist, Some Young Punks, SouthAustralia2009£16.50It’s worth buying a bottle just for the amazing label, but the wine is fantastic tooFirstimpressionsarevitalandwecan’tpretendthattheeye-catching,pulp-fiction-inspiredlabeldesigndidn’taffectourinterestinthiswine,butwearenotthesortofshallowfolkwhofallforstyleovercontent,sowedelveddeepertoseeifthebeautywasmorethanskin-deep.We’repleasedtoannouncethatourtastebudscamebackwithsomeveryimpressivereports.It’sarichyetperkyblendoftheTuscangrapevariety,Sangiovese(70%),andAustralia’shomeboy,Shiraz(30%),andisburstingwithwarm,plump,juicyplumandvelvetycherryfruitwhilealsodisplayingflavoursofsweetspicywood,ahintofoliveandpepper,atwistoforangeandadecentsprinklingofMediterraneanherbs.ThepalateisplumpandroundwiththeSangiovesecharacterassertingitselfastheleadwhiletheShirazembracesitssupportingroleaddingopulenceandbody.NBtwodaysafteropeningitwasfantastic!–evenmoreperfumedandstillaslivelyandflavoursome.Drinknow-2014.14%alc.
Frappato, Azienda Agricola Cos, Sicily,Italy2009£17.00Amazingly perfumed dry red made from Sicily’s indigenous Frappato grapeFrappatoisnotanewgimmickydrinkfromStarbucks,butaSiciliangrapevariety,mostcommonlyusedintheblendforCerasuolodiVittoria.Whenvinifiedonitsown,itproducesawonderfullyfresh,liftedstyleofwinefordrinkingwhenitisyoungandexpressive.Thisisoneofthebestandhasadramaticfragranceofmorelloanddriedcherrybillowingfromtheglassalongwithraspberrycrush,sweetherbsandspicedorange.Light-bodied,butfleshyandincrediblyjuicyandperky,itisarefreshingstyleofredwinethatshouldbedrunkjustbelowroomtemperatureforthebesteffect.Drinknow.12%alc.
Delta ‘Hatters Hill’ Pinot Noir,Marlborough,NewZealand2007/8£17.50Silky and sensuous Pinot Noir that outshone a host of New Zealand rivalsThereasonwhywewritetastingnotesisbecausewineisascienceaswellasanartandthesciencebitisn’tverycommunicative,soweturntotheartofwords.IfweweretotellyouthatthiswineismadefromtheDijonclones777,114,115and667fermentedtoadryalcoholicbeveragewithatitratableacidityof6.15g/l,aPHbalanceof3.7andaresidualsugarcontentof2.5g/l,then,unlessyouaresomekindofchemist-savant,you’llbenonethewiser.Hopefully,thefollowingwillbeslightlymorehelpful.WechosethisbeautifulPinotNoirfromahostofcontenders,becauseitshonesobrightlyandhadmorecomplexityandgracefulbeautythanthemoreexpensiveonesintheline-up.There’sreal‘wowfactor‘here,withitsbeguilingaromasofstrawberrynectar,cherryskinsandvanilla.Supersilkyonthepalate,withgreatsucculence,depthandlustre,itisbackedupbyadiscreetlypowerfulstructureoffinetanninsandfruit-lacedacidity.Drinknow-2014.13.5%alc.
Rosso del Gello, Montecucco Rosso, Italy2006£17.50Perfectly mature Sangiovese from a region that borders Brunello di MontalcinoCertainsongsorpoemsimposethemselvesonyourmemorywithoutpermissionfromyoursubconscious,theyjustletthemselvesin,andthesamecanbesaidforcertainwines,
23
likethisdelectableSangiovese.Itteleportsyoustraight
intotheheartofTuscanywithitsinviting,
high-tonednoseofspicedplums,morellocherryskins,
smokedmeat,herbs,freshlysqueezed
orangejuice,wetleavesandoldoakspice,andenvelops
youcompletelyinitswarmperfumed
layers.Ithasabigyetentirelyproportionedstructure,
supplefine-grainedtanninsandatangy
vibrantfinish.Theflavoursareattheperfectstateofm
aturitybutitremainsbeautifullyfresh.
Aseriouslyclassydrop!Somewinesdemandbeingcomm
ittedtomemory.Somewinesdemand
beingcommittedtomemory.Drinknow-2013.14%alc.
Rivarossa, Schiopetto,VeneziaGiuliaIGT,Italy£18.00
Stunning northern Italian interpretation of a fine savoury claret
Asidefromgoutandbrokenbloodvessels,oneofthemo
reusefulsymptomsthatyou
developasawinemerchantisamentalalgorithmthata
llowsyoutocalculatethe‘price
versusquality’ratioofawinewithafairdegreeofspeed
andaccuracy.Bellsstarttoring
assoonastheformulaspitsoutapositiveresultandth
iswinedidexactlythat.Ourmental
algorithmimmediatelyplaceditinthe£30.00category
,sothecampanologistswenttowork
whenwelearnedthatwecouldsellitfor£18.00.It’sav
eryfinenorthernItalianBordeaux
blend(35%CabernetFranc,35%CabernetSauvignona
nd30%Merlot),withbeautiful
flavoursonthenoseofmaltyblackberries,lushsumme
rfruits,warmterracotta,cigarbox
andpencillead,reminiscentofareallyfine,savourycla
ret.Ithasasoft,caressingtexture,
withgreatvibrancyandrefreshmentinitsblackcurran
tacidity.Youwouldneedtospend
alotmoreonBordeauxofasimilarquality.Dingdong!
Drinknow-2014.14%alc.
Cerasuolo di Vittoria Classico, Azienda Agricola Cos,Sicily2008£19.50
Wild and exciting Sicilian red with heady aromas and succulent fruit
It’sentirelypossibletogothroughlifeeatingnothingbu
tcomfortfoods,readingthelatestbestsellers
andkeepingthesame10CDsonyourauto-player.Takin
gpleasureinthesamethingsrepeatedlyisn’t
abadthing,weunderstandthethinking,butwecan’tre
sisttryingtotemptpeopleoffthebeatenpath
fromtimetotime.Thisisadelicious,livelyblendofNer
oD’Avola(60%)andFrappato(40%)from
theSouthEasterncoastofSicily.Thenosehasheady,ea
rthy,floralaromaswithsucculentcherry,
raspberry,rosehipteaandspiceflavours.Itsperfumed
redfruitsandnotesofwildherbsarebuoyed
alongthewaywithafreshcurrentofacidscarryingspi
ceandmineralnotes.Forgettypical,heavy
NeroD’Avola,thisismorenimbleandrefreshingyetwi
thunderstatedpower.Likeanewtastethat
you’vealreadyacquired.Drinknow-2015.13.5%alc.
Bourgogne Pinot Noir, Cuvée ‘Les II Papis’, MaisonGambal,France2008£19.50
Sweetly-perfumed red Burgundy from vineyards in the village of Volnay
Thenameofthiscuvée,LesDeuxPapis,referstotheni
cknamegiventoAlexandhisfriendwhenthey
werestudyingattheviticulturalcollegeinBeaune.Ast
heywere‘mature’students,theyoungerones
taggedthemwiththismoniker,looselytranslatedasth
e‘twooldcodgers’.Thereis,perhaps,anelement
ofwrydefianceinputtingthenameonthelabelnow,giv
enthatAlexhasgraduatedtobecomeone
ofBurgundy’smostrespectednegociants.Thevineyard
sthatprovidethegrapesforthiselegant
BourgogneRougelienexttothoseofMichelLafarge’sV
olnayandsharemuchofthestylefavoured
bythatgreatwinemaker.Therestraineduseofnewoak
allowsthewonderfullypurePinotflavours
ofcherry,cranberry,redcurrantandrhubarbtoshinet
hrough,aswellasapuremineralelement.
Drinknow-2014.13%alc.
Barbera d’Alba, Luciano Sandrone,Piemonte,Italy2006£19.50
Ravishing fruit, beautifully expressed – we are smitten!
Itmaybeareflectiononourdysfunctionalpersonalities
,butthethingthatreallygetsus
going,thethingthatreallysetsourpulseracingisbeau
tifulfruit.Pert,curvaceous,
sensuouslyprovocativefruit.ThisBarberad’Albaisare
alpin-upforus,becausethefruit
hassuchburlesqueappeal.Ithasafairlydeeprubyred
colour,withverypure,perfumedwild
cherryandforestfloornotesand,assuch,isacopybook
exampleofhowBarberashouldtaste,
soanyonestudyingwineshouldreachforthisasarefer
encepoint.Gorgeoussilkytexture,
medium-bodiedwithsucculent,creamyberriesandali
ttlemochaonthelong,happyfinish,
itspends12monthsin50%newoak.Drinknow-2014.1
3.5%alc.
www.swig.co.uk
24
Schubert Syrah, Wairarapa,NewZealand2005£22.50
Utterly seductive expression of Syrah, similar in style to a Cote Rotie
Cumulonimbus!Asclosetnephologistsitwasonlyamatteroftimebeforeanaccidentalreferencetocloud
formationsslippedoutandexposedusforwhatweare.Cumulonimbus!Adramatic,fulminating,multi-cell
formation,fullofbroodingenergy.Ourfavouritewine-producingcountry,NewZealand,alsoknownasthe
LandoftheLongWhiteCloud,hasproducedabeautiful,swirlingNorthernRhone-styleSyrahwhichstirsthe
soulintoactionthemomentitleavesthebottle.Ithasaseductivearrayofaromas:whiteandcrackedblack
pepper,smoke,nutmeg,violet,undergrowthandahintofmeatinessallmakingthemselvesheardamongthe
healthyglowofperfectlyriperedandblackfruitswhichgivethewineitsterrificallypureandvibrantcore.
Itexcitesthepalatewithaburstofgenerousandsupplefruit,alingeringpepperyspiceandKaiSchubert’s
deftuseofoakaddingbodyandtexture.Itstanninsaresmoothandcaressinganditsaciditybothbalancing
andrefreshing.OneofthefinestNewZealandSyrahswe’vetried,agorgeouswineandoneforthehedonist.
Drinknow-2012.14.5%alc.
A A Badenhorst Family Red, WineofCoastalOrigin,SouthAfrica2006£24.00
A product of the cult of personality backed up by serious talent
Oneoftenhearswinemerchantssayingthatwinemakersliketoletthewinesspeakforthemselves.
Well,Adi’swineswouldbeluckytogetawordinedgeways.Heisafast-talking,quick-witted,warm-hearted
kindofguy;ablendofonehalftalent,onehalfintuitionandonehalfrockstar.Likeourunderstandingof
fractions,Adi’sgraspontheprecisetechnicalspecificationsofhiswinesisnothisstrongpoint,buthisaimis
notperfectionbutpersonality.Hemaynotbeabletoquotetartaricacidlevelsoffthetopofhishead,butheis
onfirstnametermswitheachofhisvines.Ifyouwanttodrinkwineswithsoulthatweremadeusinggutfeel
ratherthantechnicalrecipes,thenthisisdefinitelywhereyoushouldbefocusingyourattention.His‘Estate
Red’isablendofShiraz(92%),Mourvedre(5%)andCinsault(3%)andwewouldprefertodrinkthisthan
95%oftheChateauneuf-du-Papesonthemarket.It’sabold,rich,spicy,beefySouthAfricaninterpretation
ofaclassicRhoneblendandevokessunnyMediterraneanflavoursofhillsideherbs,blackolives,smoked
hamandpepperyspicesamidstawealthofdeep,mouth-fillingfruit.Theharmonybetweenthesavoury
flavoursandthesucculentfruitisseriouslyappealingandyoufindyourselfcravingthenextsipbefore
you’veevenfinishedtheoneinyourmouth.Anoutstandingdebut.Drink2010-2020.14.5%alc.
Yabby Lake Pinot Noir, MorningtonPeninsula,Australia2008£24.00
Tom Carson’s ethereal Pinot Noir is the Mornington Peninsula’s pack leader
SignalledbyJancisRobinsonasoneofherfivefavouriteNewWorldPinotNoirs,thisbeautyleadsthe
pelotonofMorningtonPeninsulaPinotsthatarecurrentlyturningheadsastheysweepthroughthewine
world.Ifyouhaven’ttriedone,thenit’shightime,becausetheyareonaparwiththegreatPinotsofNew
ZealandandBurgundy.TomCarsonisthemanintheyellowjersey,notonlymakinggreatwineatYabby
Lake,butalsostandingonthepodiumproselytisingaboutthevirtuesofMorningtontoanyonewillingto
listen.YabbyLakeissituatedinthenorthofthepeninsula,wherethewinestendtowardsafirmerstructure
anddeeperflavours.Tom’s2008vintageisawinethatcombinesdepthwithethereallightnessofbeing,
balancingpureedraspberryandblackcurrantrichnesswithsilky,airynotesofredcherriesandviolets.
JancisRobinsondescribesitas“intriguinglyscented.Greatbalanceandpolish.Complete.
Verylivelyandzesty.Lovelyhauntingfinish.”Drinknow-2015.14%alc.
De Toren Fusion V, Stellenbosch, SouthAfrica2007£27.50
Opulent Bordeaux blend made with extraordinary attention to detail
Thisisoneofthoseluxuriousredwinesthattransformsyourpalateintotheboudoirofa17thcentury
Frencharistocrat,liningthewallswithdamaskandupholsteringallthefurnishingswithsatinandvelvet.
Whileitisfullofintense,dark-perfumedfruit,thetanninsaresosoftandsupplethatyoubarelynotice
them,sothatallyourconcentrationisdivertedtowardsthehedonisticpleasuresthatlieinitsflavours.
ItisaCabernetSauvignondominatedblendofallfiveoftheredBordeauxvarietiesandofferslayer
uponlayerofsumptuousblueandblackfruit,blackcurrantcordial,cigarbox,coffeeandsweetoak.
Surprisinglyaccessibleandpolishedforsuchaseriousyoungwine,theabundanceoffine-grained
tanninsandrefreshingaciditysuggestitwillmaturewellfor15yearsormore.
Drinknow-2025.14.5%alc.(magnumsavailable£55.00)
25
Rosso di Montalcino Cupano, Tuscany,Italy2007£28.00Thanks to the high quality of the vintage, this Rosso is more like a baby BrunelloAcontenderforoneofMontalcino’smostexpensiveRossos,andthereforeawinethatisaboutaseasytosellasatimeshareinLagos,wenonethelessdecidedtomakelifehardonourselvesandimportedafewcases,simplybecauseweloveditsomuch.ThelogicthatweappliedwastoforgetthefactthatitwasahumbleRossoandtojudgeitpurelyonitsmeritsasaredwineandwethoughtthatthequalitywaseasilygoodenoughtomeritthepricetag,asitofferswonderfulTuscanflavoursinalighteridiomthanaBrunellodiMontalcino,butwithmanyoftheclassiccharacteristicsfoundonthenoseandpalate.Thequalityofthegreat2007vintageliftsthiswineontoitsshouldersandcarriesitabovethelevelthatRossosnormallyachieve,sothebestwayforustoconvinceyouthatthiswinejustifiesitspriceistoseeitasababyBrunello.Woodyspices,sunnydarkberryfruitandlayersofcigarbox,leatherandliquoricesewntogetherbygrainytanninsinafull-bodiedframe,itencapsulatesaTuscansummerinabottle.Drinknow-2020.13.5%alc.
Valpolicella Superiore Carlo Ferragu,Veneto,Italy2007/8£29.50One of our favourite all time discoveries – liquid velvetForanyonestudying,orevenclaimingaseriousinterestinItalianwine,thenthisisrequireddrinking.Itcametousthroughserendipitouscircumstancesandsymboliseseverythingweloveaboutourjob,findingafewbarrelsofahand-craftedwinemadebyaconscientiousproducerusingtraditionaltechniquesandlocalgrapevarietiestocreatesomethingtrulyworldclass,inthiscaseaValpolicellaSuperiorethatisanAmaroneindisguise(thehand-pickedgrapesaredriedonstrawmatsforonemonthbeforefermentation).Itisbottlepoetryandexudesrelaxed,generousaromasofmeltedchocolate,orangecream,driedapricots,cherryandplumskins.Inthemouth,itisdrybutluxuriousandripe,withpashmina-softtanninsandsmooth,succulentlayersoffragrantdarkfruitsthatcoatthepalateleavingatwistofbitterchocolateonthefinishthatactslikearibbon,tyingthewholeparceltogether.Ithasnoneofthedriedfigorstickydatecharacterthattendstoweighdownsomanyover-bakedAmaronesandcanbedrunknowandoverthenexttenyears.15%alc.
Barolo, Renato Corino, Piedmont,Italy2006£32.00
Prepare for an out of body experience – this is an amazing Barolo for the price Ghoststendtoconcentrateonbeingseenandheard,butrarelydotheytroubleourothersenses,leastofalloursenseofsmell.Orsoyoumightthink.Whatotherexplanationcantherepossiblybefortheotherworldlyaromasthatriseupfromthisextraordinarywine?Itmustbehaunted!CommentatorscomparethebouquetofBaroloto‘tarandroses’,butthat’sjustgraspingatearthlystraws,wheninfacttheflavoursarenothingshortofparanormal.There’sawholehostofphantasmagoriagoingoninRenatoCorino’sBarolo2006,anincrediblypowerfulexpressionoftheNebbiologrape,withthescentedwoodandperfumedfruitlockedinaswirlingvortexofetherealdelights.Harmony,complexity,persistenceandhaunting,jewel-brightflavoursmakethisaseriousBaroloexperienceataspookilycheapprice.Drinknow-2020.14.5%alc.
Pyramid Valley ‘Eaton Family’ Pinot Noir,NewZealand2007£35.00Multi-layered, heavenly Marlborough Pinot Noir with panache instead of powerGreatgrapesarelikegreatactors.Thebestareabletoshedtheiridentityandtransformthemselvesintoamazingcharactersthatgobeyondcaricatureandpastiche.AgreatPinotNoir,suchasthis,doesn’trelyonmimicryortiredolddevicesbutcreatesanoriginalpersonalityofitsownmaking.It’sasensationalone-manshow,whichpayshomagetothefinestperformersinBurgundy,whileaddingfascinatingcharacteristicsfromitsbirthplace.Fine,subtleandbeautifullynuanced,withaseamlessinterplaybetweenthesweetandsavouryelements,itdoesn’tburstontothescene,buttightensitsholdlinebyline.Asensationalwinewithrealstarquality.Drinknow-2012.14%alc.
Buy Now: 08000 272 272
26
Ombrone Cupano, Sant’Antimo, Tuscany,Italy2007£38.00
A ‘Supertuscan’ of real distinction and a wine to impress your peers
Admitit.Whenyouputyourbottlesoutforrecycling,youalwaysputyourbestbottleontop,sothatpassers-bycan
seethatyouknowthetimeofdayandwhenyouhaveareallygoodbottle,youputoutyourrecycling4daysearlyfor
maximumexposure.Well,ifevertherewereabottleofwinethatannouncedyourunequivocalstateofcool,thenthis
isit.ItisasmallproductionblendofCabernetSauvignon,MerlotandSangiovese(effectivelyaSupertuscan)called
OmbroneSant’Antimo2007,madebyLionelCousinatCupano,betterknownbymanyforhisprestigiousBrunello
diMontalcino.Adeepshadeofcrimson,thecolouroffairytalepoison,itbillowswithvillainousdarkflavours.
There’sanamazinginterplaybetweenlightanddarkness,withthepure,pristinefruitengagingwiththedramatic
powerofthenewFrenchoak.Thesetwoplayersseemtobelockedinafascinatinggameofdare,witheachone
raisingthestakes,challengingtheothertomeasureupanditcreatesanamazingescalationofcomplexity.
Thearomasareinfusedwithmixedsweetspice,blackberrycordial,purpleflowers,sandalwoodandsweet
chestnut.Thepalateisstainedinbeautifullyripe,sweetblackcurrantfruitwithasupplenesstothe
fine-grainedtanninsthatgivesitrealdistinction.Drink2011-2020.14.5%alc.
Nuits St Georges 1er Cru ‘Clos des Forets’Domainedel’Arlot,Burgundy2008£39.00
Exquisite Pinot Noir from a domaine that produces ethereal, elegant reds
AllenMeadows,oneoftheworld’sleadingauthoritiesonBurgundy,oncewrote:“Whenitcomestothefinest
Burgundies,youmaynotalwaysgetwhatyoupayforbutyouwillnevergetwhatyoudon’tpayfor.”Itisa
frustratingtruism,recognisabletoanyonewhohasbeenbedevilledbytheinconsistencyofexpensiveBurgundy,
particularlythereds,butasanyoneenchantedbyoneortwomagicalexperienceswillalsoagree,thequestis
worthwhile.WeareconfidentthatyouwilllovethisPremierCrufromDomainedel’Arlot,whoproducerefined,
elegantreds,whosecomplexityandbeautifulspectrumofflavoursbeliethedeceptivelypalecolourofthewines.
Ifrubieshadanaroma,thenthiswouldsurelybeit.AmagicalarrayofwildPinotNoircharacters,suggestingcola
cubes,crushedcherries,fraisedesboisandvioletsareheldgentlyinthepalmofthiswine,whichhasterrific
latentpower.Ithasthatmystical,magicalqualitythatonlyBurgundianPinotNoirseemscapableofachieving.
Simplybeautifulandwortheverypenny.Drink2011-2018.13%alc.
Rioja Gran Reserva,BodegasFernandoRemirezdeGanuza,Spain2001£62.00
Mouth-filling, complex, and staggeringly rich Gran Reserva – a 100 point wine?
Farbeitfromustomisleadanyonebycallingthisa100pointwine,butthereissufficient
circumstantialevidencetosuggestthatitis,albeitunofficially.ExhibitA:The2004vintage
ofthisGranReservareceivedthehallowedperfectscoreonRobertParker’sWineAdvocate.
ExhibitB:JayMiller,whowrotetheaforementionedreview,appendedthefollowing
incriminatingline:“thegreatestvintagesfromBodegasFernandoRemirezdeGanuzain
myopinionare2004and2001”Isitnotcertain,therefore,beyondanyreasonabledoubt,
thatifthisGranReservafromthe2001vintagehadbeenreviewedonRobertParker’s
WineAdvocate,itwouldhavereceivedthesame100pointscore?Ifthejuryisstillout,
thenkindlyallowustoturntooneofourcustomer’sasawitnessforthedefence:
“TheRiojaGranReserva2001youjustdeliveredwasquitesimplysuperbandprobably
oneofthebestbottlesofwineIhavehadthiscenturyandcertainlythebestunder£100.”
Werestourcase.Drink2010-2050.14.5%alc.
Amarone Ferragu, Veneto,Italy2005/6£85.00
If there’s a better Amarone on the planet, then ... well, there just isn’t.
Westronglyrecommendthatyousound-proofyourhousebeforeyoutastethiswine.Unless,ofcourse,youactively
wantyourneighbourstohearsuchextraordinaryhowlsofdelightandpleasurethattheirmorninggreetingrings
withbothindignationandalittlenewfoundrespect.Wedescribedlastyear’svintageas“likedrinkingLordByron’s
stagnight”andthenewvintageisofasimilarkidney,butwithafewmoregatecrashers.Onceagain,thegrapes
spent90daysdryingonstrawmatsbeforefermentation,afterwhichthewinethenmaturedinAmericanoak
barrelsforafurtherthreeyears.It’sincrediblyrichandpowerful,withintenseflavoursofscenteddamson,
chestnutpuree,orangecreamandrichplumfillingdustedwithcocoapowder.CarloFerragu’svineyardslie
adjacenttothoseofthegreatRomanoDalFornoandthelevelofcomplexityandbeautyinhiswinesrivals
thoseofhisneighbouryetathalftheprice.Mindblowingwine!Drinknow-2030.17%alc.
27
SweetChambers Rutherglen Muscat, AustraliaNV37.5cl£10.95Life is too short not to try this wine ... a true Australian treasureThequoteabovecomesfromRobertParker,whohasbeenravingaboutthewonderfulsweetwinesfromRutherglenforoveradecade.Theyareallmadeusingasolerasystem,suchastheydoforsherry,whichiseffectivelyanongoingblendofvintages,inthiscasewithanaverageageofbetween7and10years(their100point-scoringRareMuscathasanaverageageof70years!).Likeamagicianfantailingapackofcardsbeforeyoureyes,itopensupwithamazingcomplexity,revealingcaramel,manukahoney,brandiedraisins,stickytoffeepuddingandspicedfruitcake.Itisrichandsweetonthepalatewithindulgentyetfreshandlivelyflavoursthatintroducethemselvestoeachandeveryoneofyourtastebuds.18.5%alc.Drinknow-2020.
Pyramid Valley ‘Hille Family’ Late Harvest Semillon, NewZealand200875cl£24.00
Luminous, tantalising, lustrous, thesaurus-necessitating sweet wine from New ZealandThislateharvestSemillonissurelyaproductofnuclearfission,suchistheexplosionofaromasandflavoursitsetsoff,theboundlessenergypackedintoitandthewayinwhichtheseunfurluponcontactwiththepalate.Oodlesofzestygrapefruiteruptfollowedbyatrailofsmoke,honey,toastandSemillon’scharacteristicgrassyhighnotes.Beautifullytexturedandbalancedwithanamazinglylongfinishthatcallstomindabreakfastofpinkgrapefruitmarmaladeontoast.Itisintenseandunctuouswithimpressivebiteandawelcomingtangtopunctuatethesweetness.Arresting.Scintillating.Luscious.Indulgent.A‘wow’experience.Drinknow–2020.13.4%alc,Churchill’s 10-year old Tawny Port,Portugal,NV,50cl,£24.50A winter-warming treat if ever there was one! Theoxidativeeffectsofbarrel-ageinglendasubtleelegancetotherichcoreandimbuesitwithawonderfullydistinctivecharacter.Enticingandcomplexonthenoseitdrawsyouinwithitsfragranceofroastednuts,freshlygroundcoffee,caramel,nutmegandsweetdriedfruits.Itisatoncesoftandmellowyethasamazingflavourintensityandimpeccabledefinition.Silky-texturedwithdelicatelynutty,toastandcaramelflavoursfleshedoutbynotesofraisins,figsandorangerind.Reallylongandnotintheleastbitcloyingthankstoatangystreakofacidityrunningthroughitscorewhichkeepsitlively.ItiseverythingTawnyportshouldbe.Drinkwithcheddarcheeseandlovedones.Drinknow-2020.20%alc.
Four easy ways to order from Swig
1.Telephone-08000272272 2. [email protected] 3.Fax-02089956195
4.Post-188,SuttonCourtRoad,London,W43HR
Terms and Conditions-Wehopeyouwillorderatleast6bottles,butifyouhaveaspecialrequirement,suchassinglebottlegifts,thenwearemorethanhappytohelp.Thereis,however,aslightlyhigherdeliverychargeonsmallerorders.
Delivery-Ordersof6bottlesormorewillbechargedat£9.50incvat.Freedeliveryonordersover£400toasingleaddress.Underbonddeliverieschargedatcost.Standarddeliveryisanext-dayservicebetween9amand5pm.Winecanbeleftsafelyifnooneisin,withinstructionswheretoleaveit
EveningdeliveriesareavailableinmostLondonpostcodes(TuesdaysandThursdays–andmoreeveningsinpeakseason)GoodsremainthepropertyofSwiguntilpaidforinfull.Goodsareofferedsubjecttoremainingunsold.
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