SWEATERWEATHERCOOKBOOK

Table of Contents

Albondigas

Cashew Chicken

Root Vegetable Confit With Pistachio Pesto

Cracked Sweet Potatoes With Chiles and Coconut

Everything Pancakes

Cinnamon Sugar Palmiers

Yeasted Waffles

Mulled Cider Old-Fashioned Whiskey Cocktail

European Drinking Chocolate

EDITOR IN CHIEF Matt Rodbard

SENIOR EDITOR Anna Hezel

ART DIRECTOR Alex Citrin

INTERN

Tatiana Bautista

TASTE is an online magazine written for people who love to cook at home and enjoy reading about approachable recipes, popular and emerging ingredients, and stories reported from the frontlines of today’s quickly moving food culture.

tastecooking.com

Vinegar-Braised Chicken With Farro and Watercress

Wesley Avila with Richard Parks III

Alison Roman Tieghan Gerard

Lemony Fried Brussels Sprouts

Lisa Fain

Austin Diner-Style Queso

Sake and Soy-Marinated Pork over Rice

JJ Goode, Helen Hollyman, & the Editors of MUNCHIES

Poached Eggs in Romesco With Potato Crisps

Hugh Acheson

Stuart Brioza & Nicole Krasinski with JJ Goode

Martha Stewart Mary-Frances HeckKris Yenbamroong with Garrett Snyder

Elisabet der Nederlanden Adele Yellin & Kevin West

Marte Marie Forsberg Robert Simonson Todd Masonis, Greg D’Alesandre,

Lisa Vega & Molly Gore

COVER ILLUSTRATION Leon Edler INTERIOR ILLUSTRATIONS Alex Citrin

BACK PAGE PHOTOGRAPH Andrew Thomas Lee

Vinegar-Braised Chicken With Farro and Watercress

Dining In by Alison Roman — I sent my friend off with some of this chicken for his family. It’s not a remarkable chicken, either. It’s maybe one of the simplest dishes in the whole book: a one-pot meal made from a few humble ingredients. I plopped it into a ziplock. He eventually confessed the chicken never made it onto a plate, but if it was any consolation, his mom said, “This chicken-in-a-bag is so good, she should sell it on the street.”

1 Rewarm over low heat with the lid on, adding a bit of water to the pot to prevent the chicken from drying out.

2 Season the chicken with salt and pepper. Heat the oil in a large Dutch oven over medium heat. Sear the chicken (working in batches, if needed), skin-side down, until golden brown on both sides, 10 to 12 minutes per side. Transfer the chicken to a plate or cutting board.

3 Add the garlic and farro to the pot, stirring to coat them in the rendered chicken fat. Season with salt and pepper and cook until the garlic and farro begin to smell toasty, 5 to 8 minutes. Add the vinegar, yuzu kosho (if using), and 4 cups water, scraping up any bits on the bottom of the pan, and bring to a simmer.

4 Return the chicken to the pot, skin-side up, and cover. Reduce the heat to medium-low and gently simmer until the chicken is practically falling off the bone and the farro is totally cooked through—it should be tender but not mushy—about 90 minutes.

5 Stir in the watercress before serving.

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DO AHEAD: Chicken can be cooked 2 days

ahead and refrigerated.

SERVES 4

1 (3½- to 4-pound) chicken, cut up into pieces, or 2 bone-in breasts and 2 bone-in legs

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 tablespoon canola oil

1 head of garlic, halved lengthwise

1 cup farro or spelt

½ cup white distilled vinegar or white wine vinegar

1 tablespoon yuzu kosho (optional)

4 cups watercress, thick stems removed

Braising with Alison Roman

Braising, in the simplest terms, is a way of cooking something slowly in a flavorful broth or liquid until the bits of tissue and cartilage soften, and the proteins break down into something meltingly tender that falls off the bone into luxuriously shreddable meat. Start by searing your meat so that it’s nicely

browned on all sides, and then add vegetables, aromatics, a liquid (vinegar, broth, wine), or a combination. Once the meat is nestled into its new braising bath, put the lid on, reduce your flame to the lowest setting and walk away. No peeking for a while—you want to keep all the magic inside! —Alison Roman

Lemony Fried Brussels Sprouts

Half Baked Harvest Cookbook by Tieghan Gerard — Brussels sprouts seem to have made a major comeback in recent years. Pan-frying the sprouts in a skillet really helps to caramelize them and bring out their yummy flavors, making them perfectly crisp and delicious. Finish off the recipe with a creamy goat’s milk and Parmesan béchamel sauce (you know, for good measure) and a handful of fresh basil. If goat’s milk is not easily available to you, use whole buttermilk or milk.

1 Preheat the oven to 400°F.

2 In a 12-inch oven-safe skillet, heat the olive oil over medium. When it shimmers, add the Brussels sprouts and cook, stirring occasionally, until crisp and lightly caramelized, 3 to 4 minutes. Add the garlic and lemon zest and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds, being sure not to burn them.

3 Transfer the skillet to the oven and roast the Brussels sprouts for about 10 minutes, or until tender.

4 Meanwhile, in a blender or food processor, combine the goat’s milk, goat cheese, mustard, and lemon juice and pulse until smooth. Stir in the red pepper flakes.

5 Remove the Brussels sprouts from the oven. Turn the broiler to high. Stir the basil and mint into the Brussels sprouts. Pour the goat’s milk mixture on top. Sprinkle with the Parmesan and almonds. Return to the oven and broil for 2 to 3 minutes, or until the cheese has melted, keeping a close eye on it. Remove and season lightly with flaky sea salt and pepper. Garnish with fresh basil and mint.

SERVES 4

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

¾ pound Brussels sprouts, trimmed and halved

4 garlic cloves, minced or grated

Zest of 1 lemon

⅔ cup full-fat goat’s milk

2 ounces goat cheese

1 teaspoon Dijon mustard

1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice

Pinch of crushed red pepper flakes

¼ cup chopped fresh basil, plus more for garnish

1 tablespoon chopped fresh mint, plus more for garnish

⅓ cup grated Parmesan cheese

⅓ cup raw almonds, coarsely chopped

Flaky sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

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Austin Diner-Style Queso

QUESO! by Lisa Fain — In Austin, inviting places such as Kerbey Lane and Magnolia Cafe have long been popular spots for a queso fix in the darker hours. This recipe is not specific to any particular place, but will remind you of late nights and good friends.

1 In a medium saucepan, melt the butter over medium-low heat. Add the onion and jala-peños and cook, stirring occa-sionally, until softened, about 5 minutes. Add the garlic and Anaheims and cook for 30 sec-onds longer. 2 Whisk together the cornstarch, milk, and water until well combined, then pour into the pan. Bring to a simmer, stirring constantly, and cook for a couple of minutes until the mixture begins to thicken. Add the cheese, turn down the heat to low, and cook, stirring, until the cheese has melted. Stir in the cilantro, cumin, cayenne, and salt, then taste and adjust the seasonings, if you like. 3 Transfer the queso to a serving bowl, a small slow cooker, or a chafing dish over a flame. Spoon guacamole and pico de gallo into the center of the queso. Serve warm with tortilla chips.

MAKES 6 TO 8 SERVINGS

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

¼ cup diced yellow onion

4 jalapeños, seeded and finely diced

2 cloves garlic, minced

2 Anaheim chiles, roasted, peeled, seeded, and finely diced

2 tablespoons cornstarch

1 cup whole milk

1 cup water

1 pound white or yellow American cheese, shredded

2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro

1 teaspoon ground cumin

¼ teaspoon cayenne

½ teaspoon kosher salt

Guacamole, for topping

Pico de gallo, for topping

Tortilla chips, for serving

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NOTE: Anaheim chiles are long, green chiles with a pointed tip and heat that can range from mild to hot. Their skin is

thick, so these chiles need to be roasted and peeled before eating. If you can’t

find this type or want to save time, 4 ounces of canned green chiles equals

2 roasted and peeled fresh chiles, but also know that chiles you roast yourself are much more flavorful.

1 To make the meatballs: In a large bowl, combine the beef, pork, rice, mint, salt, pepper, and garlic and mix well with your hands. Once the ingredients are fully incorporated, form into balls about 2 ounces each, about the size of a golf ball, and set aside on a plate.

2 In an 8-quart stockpot over medium-low heat, combine the vegetable oil, onions, carrots, celery, and potatoes. Turn the heat to high and cook until the onions are translucent, about 5 minutes. Add the tomato paste, tomato sauce, bay leaf, cumin,

and chicken stock and let come to a simmer. 3 Once the stock is steaming, start adding the meatballs, one by one, until they’re all in there. Tuck them under the surface if any are sticking out—they should fit perfectly. The meatballs will cool the stock down, so adjust the heat as you go to keep it at a low simmer. The stock should be red. Allow the meatballs to simmer for about 45 minutes. Do not stir for the first 10 to 20 minutes, or until the meatballs are cooked through—otherwise you risk breaking them apart, which you don’t want. Skim any scum from the surface as you go.

4 After 45 minutes, remove a meatball and cut into it. You’ll know they’re done when the rice is cooked. When the meatballs are done, season with salt and turn off the heat. The soup will stay hot for a while.

5 Serve the soup, ballparking four or five meatballs per portion, and garnish with the limes, cheese, avocados, chiles, and cilantro to your liking. (You might have leftovers, and you’ll be glad if you do. Store in an airtight container in the fridge for up to 2 days.)

Albondigas

Guerilla Tacos by Wesley Avila with Richard Parks III — This is the soup that made my wife fall in love with me. My mom made it when I was a kid. When my mom would make this soup, I couldn’t resist grazing and just eating the albondigas when nobody was looking. It’s a meal that’s made to share. Make a huge batch for a dinner party, or just give it to your friends and neighbors. They’ll fall in love with you, too.

SERVES 8 TO 10

4 pounds lean (90%) ground beef

2 pounds ground pork

1 cup uncooked long-grain rice

1 cup chopped fresh mint

1½ tablespoons kosher salt

2 teaspoons cracked black pepper

4 garlic cloves, peeled and minced

2 tablespoons vegetable oil, olive oil, or lard

2 cups diced yellow onions

6 carrots, peeled and cut diagonally into 3-inch pieces

3 stalks celery, peeled, tough threads removed, and cut diagonally into 3-inch pieces

3 cups chopped red-skinned potatoes (1-by-2-inch chunks)

3 tablespoons tomato paste

12 ounces canned tomato sauce

1 bay leaf

1 teaspoon ground cumin

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4 quarts chicken stock, or broth made from bouillon

Kosher salt

6 limes, halved

16 ounces panela cheese or queso fresco, cut into 3-inch strips

2 avocados, pitted, quartered, peeled, and sliced very thin

2 serrano chiles, with seeds, sliced very thin

1 habanero chile, sliced very thin

Leaves torn from 5 cilantro sprigs

Sake-and-Soy-Marinated Pork Over Rice

MUNCHIES by JJ Goode, Helen Hollyman, and the Editors of MUNCHIES,

Recipe by Taiji Kushima and Shogo Kamishima of W.P. Gold Burger — Taiji Kushima and Shogo Kamishima of Tokyo’s W.P. Gold Burger use a charcoal grill to make the comfort food specialty of their hometown of Obihiro, on the island of Hokkaido, where they met as kids: thinly sliced pork, dunked in a sticky-sweet sauce of soy, sake, and sugar, and served over steaming rice. Even when they ran out of pork loin and had to switch to bacon, the dish still bowled us over.

1 In a medium saucepan, combine the soy sauce, mirin, sake, sugar, and 3 tablespoons water and stir well. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat and simmer until the sugar has dissolved, about 30 seconds. Set aside about ⅓ cup for serving.

2 Heat a grill or grill pan over high heat. Lightly season the pork slices on both sides with salt and pepper. When the grill is hot, cook the pork in batches, flipping once and brushing with the sauce, until seared on both sides, about 2 minutes.

3 Divide the rice among bowls. Top each with a few slices of pork and a sprinkle of scallions. Drizzle with the reserved sauce and serve immediately.

SERVES 4

6 tablespoons soy sauce

3 tablespoons mirin

3 tablespoons sake

3 tablespoons sugar

1 pound boneless pork loin, sliced about ⅛ inch thick (beg your butcher to do this)

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

6 cups steamed short-grain white rice, hot

Thinly sliced scallions, for garnish

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Poached Eggs in Romesco With Potato Crisps

The Chef and the Slow Cooker by Hugh Acheson — This dish is a no-brainer for a simple brunch. Romesco is a full-flavored beauty of a sauce, thickened with nuts and redolent with smoked paprika. The romesco cooks for a while and then the eggs are nestled in it. Thirty minutes later, you have a beautiful meal, with some crisps alongside for nibbling. This is also great served over grits.

1 Preheat a slow cooker on the high setting for at least 15 minutes, and preheat the oven to 425°F.

2 On a rimmed baking sheet, toss the bell peppers, tomatoes, shallots, garlic, bread pieces, and hazelnuts with 2 tablespoons of the olive oil, 1 teaspoon salt, and the black pepper. Toast in the oven for 15 minutes, or until the mixture has softened and browned a bit.

3 Carefully transfer the mixture to a blender and add the remaining olive oil, the red pepper flakes, paprika, and vinegar. Blend until smooth.

4 Add the puree to the preheated slow cooker. Pour in 1½ cups of water, stir to combine, cover with the lid, and cook on the high setting for 30 minutes. Then reduce the setting to low and cook for another 10 minutes.

5 Uncover the cooker and season the sauce to taste with salt. Crack the eggs, one by one, into the romesco sauce in the cooker, holding the eggs very close to the sauce so that they nestle into it rather than spreading out. Be careful, lest you burn your fingers! Try to fit in as many eggs as you can without overcrowding the cooker. My large one fit 8 eggs comfortably. Cover the cooker with the lid and cook on the low setting for exactly

30 minutes (so as not to overcook the eggs).

6 Serve the eggs and romesco immediately, sprinkled with the chopped parsley and a handful of potato chips—and bread and more chips on the side for brunch-time snacking.

SERVES 4 TO 8

2 large red bell peppers, seeded and large-diced

2 large red tomatoes, large-diced

2 shallots, large-diced

2 garlic cloves, smashed

1 slice bread (whatever you have), cut into ½-inch pieces (about ¾ cup)

¼ cup whole skinned hazelnuts

1 cup extra-virgin olive oil

Kosher salt

1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

½ teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes

1½ tablespoons sweet smoked paprika

3 tablespoons sherry vinegar

8 large eggs

¼ cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley leaves

A large bag of your favorite potato chips

Crusty bread, sliced, for serving

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Instant Pot Versus Slow Cooker

INSTANT POTMultiple functions (pressure

cook, steam, sauté, slow cook)Frozen-food friendly

Shorter cooking times

SLOW COOKEROne function

Defrosted food only

Longer cooking times

Cashew Chicken

Night + Market by Kris Yenbamroong with Garrett Snyder — My grandma is half Chinese, and her specialties at Talésai, her former restaurant, reflected her knack for quick Chinese stir-fries. This one might be the quickest and simplest, but it somehow ends up far more satisfying than the sum of its simple parts. Thai-style cashew chicken is very different from the gravy-intensive stuff you’d find at, say, a Chinese-American restaurant, and in my opinion it’s much better—it’s lighter, sweeter, and fresher.

1 In a container big enough to hold the chicken, combine the teriyaki, thin soy sauce, and 3 tablespoons of the black soy sauce. Add the chicken and marinate at room temperature for 15 to 20 minutes, or until the chicken develops a light brown color. Drain off any excess sauce that hasn’t been absorbed. 2 Heat an empty wok over high heat until it begins to smoke, then swirl in enough oil to come 1 inch or so up the sides. Once the oil is shimmering, add the cashews and stir-fry until golden brown and fragrant, 1 to 2 minutes. Drain the cashews on a paper towel. Pour

all but 3 tablespoons of the oil into a heatproof container (and save for later use). Swirl the reserved oil in the still-hot wok and heat over high heat until shimmering, then add the chicken and onion and stir-fry for a minute or so until the chicken is opaque and the onion is soft. Add the remaining 1 tablespoon black soy, the sugar, and the cashews and cook until a thick sauce forms, another minute or two. Add a dash of chile powder and the green onions, then remove from the heat. Toss to combine and serve immediately with steamed jasmine rice.

SERVES 1 OR 2

3 tablespoons teriyaki sauce

3 tablespoons thin soy sauce

4 tablespoons black soy sauce

½ pound boneless, skin-on chicken thighs (unbrined), cut into bite-size slices

Vegetable oil, for frying

⅓ cup raw cashews

⅓ cup thinly sliced (root to stem) white onion

1 tablespoon sugar

Roasted Chile Powder

2 green onions, cut on an angle into 2-inch slices

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Roasted Red Chile Powder

MAKES ABOUT 1 CUP

2 cups dried Thai bird’s-eye chiles, pulla chiles, or árbol chiles, stemmed

1 In a dry wok, roast the chiles over medium-low heat, stirring occasionally, until they turn a deep, dark crimson (almost brown) and give off a sweet and earthy smell (not burnt). The process shouldn’t take more than 10 minutes, but it pays to be vigilant in making

sure the chiles toast evenly and slowly.

2 Remove the chiles from the heat and let them rest until cool enough to handle. Transfer to a food processor, blender, or spice grinder and grind until the mixture is slightly finer than the crushed red pepper you’d find at a pizza shop. Be careful not to breathe in any chile dust when you remove the lid. Store in a sealed container in a cool, dry place for up to 3 months.

1 Preheat a 5- to 6-quart slow cooker.

2 Combine carrots, parsnips, beets, onions, fennel, bay leaves, coriander seeds, chiles, and oil in the slow cooker. Cover and cook on high until tender, about 2½ hours (or on low for 5 hours). Let cool in oil for 30 minutes, then using a slotted spoon, transfer to a wire rack set over a rimmed baking sheet to drain. (Save the flavorful oil to use in dressings, to sauté or fry with, or, of course, to poach another batch of vegetables.)

3 Serve vegetables with Pistachio Pesto.

1 In a mini food processor, pulse ½ cup roasted salted shelled pistachios; ½ cup packed fresh flat-leaf parsley; 1 small garlic clove, smashed and peeled; and ½ cup extra-virgin olive oil until finely chopped. Add 2 tablespoons red-wine vinegar and 2 tablespoons finely grated Pecorino Romano cheese, and pulse to combine. Transfer to a bowl.

2 Tip: To brown the vegetables after poaching, heat a large cast-iron skillet or griddle over high. Add vegetables and cook, tossing, until golden, about 5 minutes.

Root Vegetable Confit With Pistachio Pesto

Martha Stewart’s Slow Cooker — In roughly the time it takes to oven-roast vegetables, you can poach them in fragrant oil in the slow cooker. Serve the silky root vegetables with pesto over quinoa as a lovely main course, as a nice accompaniment to roasted meats, or even as part of a cheese board.

SERVES 4 TO 6

4 small carrots, peeled but with ends left intact

4 small parsnips, peeled

2 beets, peeled and cut into ½-inch wedges

8 cipollini onions

1 fennel bulb, cut into wedges with core intact

2 dried bay leaves

1 teaspoon coriander seeds

3 dried red chiles

4 to 5 cups olive or canola oil

Pistachio Pesto

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Pistachio Pesto

Cracked Sweet Potatoes With Chiles and Coconut

Sweet Potatoes by Mary-Frances Heck — I made this dish for the first time when I was “detoxing” between recipe-testing cookbooks. I had a few leftover roasted sweet potatoes and other odds and ends in the fridge, so I warmed them up and assembled them on a platter. The combination of colorful sweet potatoes, spicy chile, funky fish sauce (trust me on this one!), and fresh herbs is outstanding.

1 To oven-roast sweet potatoes: Line a rimmed baking sheet with aluminum foil or parchment paper. Use a fork to prick the sweet potatoes in several places; then arrange the sweet potatoes in a single layer on the baking sheet. Place the baking sheet on the middle rack of the oven and heat the oven to 350°F.

2 Bake the sweet potatoes until their juices bubble like lava from the volcanic ends and pricked skin, caramelizing into a dark pumice, and the skin has softened, dried out, and collapsed onto the flesh, an hour, give or take, depending on the weight and width of your sweet potatoes. It may take up to 2 hours for very large ones weighing more than 1 pound. Remove the sweet potatoes from the oven and let them rest until their juices no longer flow, about 5 minutes.

3 Crack open the sweet potatoes and spoon chunks of the flesh onto a platter; discard the skins.

4 Melt the coconut oil in a small skillet set over medium-low heat. Add the ginger, chile, and scallion whites. Cook until the chile is softened but not browned, about 30 seconds. Remove the pan from the heat and stir in the lime juice, fish sauce, and honey, if using. Spoon the sauce over the sweet potatoes, scatter with the scallion greens, coconut, and mint, and serve.

SERVES 4

2 pounds Oven-Roasted Sweet Potatoes (a few colors is nice), warm or at room temperature

2 tablespoons coconut oil or unsalted butter

1 tablespoon peeled and minced fresh ginger

1 serrano chile, sliced into rings

2 scallions, whites and greens separated and chopped

1 tablespoon fresh lime juice

1 teaspoon fish sauce

1 teaspoon honey (optional)

2 tablespoons unsweetened coconut flakes, toasted

2 tablespoons chopped fresh mint

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Everything Pancakes

State Bird Provisions by Stuart Brioza and Nicole Krasinski with JJ Goode — At San Francisco’s State Bird Provisions, pancake dough is a blank slate for everything from fresh corn to sauerkraut to sambal oelek. At the restaurant, these everything pancakes come with smoked mackerel, cream cheese, and sweet-and-sour beets. But for brunch or cocktail fare, they could be served with typical bagel fixings or some small spoonfuls of caviar.

1 Whisk together the flour, sugar, and salt in a medium mixing bowl and make a well in the center of the mixture. In a small mixing bowl, whisk the water and yeast until the yeast dissolves and then briefly whisk in the eggs. Add the egg mixture to the well, whisking in about a quarter of the flour mixture to make a smooth paste surrounded by loose flour.

2 Melt the butter in a small saucepan over low heat and then let it cool slightly so it’s no longer hot but still liquid. Pour the butter into the paste and whisk until smooth. Continue to whisk, gradually incorporating the loose flour mixture to make a smooth batter (it’s okay if it looks a little broken). Scrape the batter onto a baking sheet and spread to make an even, approximately ½-inch layer. Press a sheet of plastic wrap against surface of the batter to prevent a skin from forming. Refrigerate until cool, at least 1 hour or up to 4 hours. When it has cooled, it will be more like a dough than a batter.

3 Put the everything spice in a bowl. Roll the dough into about 30 spheres, using a mounded tablespoon of dough per ball. Add a few balls at a time to the spice mixture and toss gently to

coat them. One by one, gently flatten the balls between your hands to form ½-inch-thick discs and return them to the baking sheet. Cover and refrigerate until ready to cook, at least 30 minutes or up to 4 hours.

MAKES 30 SMALL PANCAKES

1¾ cups all-purpose flour

1 Tbsp granulated sugar

1 tsp kosher salt

3 Tbsp room-temperature (70° to 80°F) water

1 Tbsp fresh yeast

2 large eggs, lightly beaten

¾ cup unsalted butter

½ cup Everything Spice

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One at a time, transfer the toasted fennel seeds, cumin seeds, and coriander seeds to a mortar and coarsely grind, then combine the ground seeds in an airtight container. Add the poppy seeds, sesame seeds, and salt and stir well.

Store in a cool, dry place for up to 2 weeks.

Our version of the spice mixture that coats everyone’s favorite kind of bagel differs slightly from the classic. We use fennel seeds instead of caraway and skip the dried onion and garlic in favor of more compelling spices, such as cumin and coriander. Still, it’s a fine sprinkle that goes with our bagel-inspired pancakes with smoked fish and whipped cream cheese.

MAKES ABOUT ¾ CUP

2 Tbsp fennel seeds, toasted

2 Tbsp cumin seeds, toasted

2 Tbsp coriander seeds, toasted

2 Tbsp poppy seeds, toasted

¼ cup plus 2 Tbsp sesame seeds, toasted

½ tsp flaky sea salt

Everything Spice

Cinnamon-Sugar Palmiers

Holiday Cookies by Elisabet der Nederlanden — Purchased puff pastry makes these crispy-chewy palmiers easy to assemble. Look for a good-quality all-butter product for the best results. Check with your local bakery, as some bakeries sell made-in-house puff pastry dough.

1 Sprinkle ¼ cup of the sugar on a large work surface and unroll 1 sheet of the puff pastry directly on top of the sugar. Using a rolling pin, roll the pastry out to about 12 by 10 inches.

2 In a small bowl, combine ½ cup of the sugar and the orange zest and rub the sugar between your fingertips to distribute the zest evenly. Add the cinnamon and salt and stir to mix well.

3 Fill the spray bottle with water and then lightly spray the surface of the pastry. Sprinkle half of the sugar mixture evenly over the surface, then gently roll the rolling pin over the dough to help the mixture adhere to it.

4 Position the pastry so a shorter end is facing you. Start rolling, fairly tightly, from both the left and the right sides of the pastry toward the center, until the rolls meet. Spray again with a little water. Wrap the rolled pastry log in plastic wrap and chill in the freezer for 30 minutes. Repeat the process with the second pastry sheet, using the remaining ¼ cup sugar on the work surface and the remaining sugar-zest mixture on the dough.

5 Position two oven racks, evenly spaced, in the middle of the oven and preheat the oven to 425°F. Line two baking sheets with parchment paper or silicone baking mats.

6 Using a sharp knife, cut one log into ½-inch-thick slices. Arrange half of the slices, cut side down and evenly spaced, on each prepared baking sheet. Bake the cookies for 16 to 18 minutes, until golden brown and caramelized, switching the baking sheets between the racks about halfway through the baking time. When you switch the sheets between the racks, flip the cookies over so the sugar caramelizes on both sides. Transfer the baking sheets to wire racks and let cool for 5 minutes, then carefully transfer the cookies to the racks and let cool completely. Cut, bake, and cool the remaining cookies the same way before serving.

MAKES ABOUT 48 COOKIES

1 cup granulated sugar

2 (8-ounce) sheets store-bought puff pastry, thawed if frozen

2 teaspoons finely grated orange zest

1½ tablespoons ground cinnamon

1 teaspoon kosher salt

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Yeasted Waffles

The Grand Central Market Cookbook by Adele Yellin and Kevin West,

Recipe from G&B Coffee cofounders Kyle Glanville and Charles Babinski — A few years after opening up shop in L.A.’s Grand Central Market in 2013, G&B Coffee installed a wraparound counter that allowed for 360-degree service in the round and installed waffle irons. Their yeasted waffles became an overnight Market classic. Crisp and airy, they go equally well with the suggested toppings of confectioners’ sugar, ricotta, and jam, or the traditional maple syrup.

1 In a large bowl, whisk together ¾ cup warm water, the yeast, and the granulated sugar. Set aside in a warm place until bubbly, 10 minutes. Meanwhile, in a small saucepan, warm the milk over low heat. Whisk in the melted butter. In a medium bowl, combine the flour and salt. Whisk a third of the wet ingredients into the yeast mixture. Then whisk in a third of the dry ingredients. Alternate the ingredients until everything is combined and you have a smooth, thin batter. Cover the bowl tightly with plastic wrap, and leave on the counter at room temperature overnight. It will get bubbly and fragrant.

2 The next morning, preheat a waffle iron. In a small bowl, beat together the eggs and baking powder, then whisk this into the yeasted batter. Ladle the batter into the waffle iron and cook according to manufacturer’s instructions until the waffle is light brown, 2 to 3 minutes. Repeat with the remaining batter.

3 Dust with confectioners’ sugar, and serve with a dollop of ricotta cheese and a spoonful of jam.

SERVES 8 TO 10

1 tablespoon active dry yeast

2½ teaspoons granulated sugar

2¾ cups whole milk

¾ cup (1½ sticks) unsalted butter, melted

3½ cups all-purpose flour

1 teaspoon kosher salt

3 large eggs

½ scant teaspoon baking powder

Confectioners’ sugar, ricotta cheese, and raspberry jam, store-bought or homemade, for serving

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NOTE: The batter needs to rest

overnight.

Mulled Cider

The Cottage Kitchen by Marte Marie Forsberg — When mulled cider shows up on the menu at the local pub, I get excited for the season ahead. Wild autumnal storms may rage outside, but when I’m tucked up next to a roaring fire in my local pub with this drink in hand, I’m snug as can be. During autumn and winter, I often have a saucepan of mulled cider on low on the stove, ready to be ladled into mugs when friends stop by.

1 In a large saucepan set over low heat, combine the cider, ginger beer, orange juice, lemon zest and juice, 1 cinnamon stick, cloves, and nutmeg. Heat the mixture without letting it boil, about 15 minutes.

2 Serve ladled into glasses or mugs, with orange slices and a cinnamon stick in each.

MAKES 1L or 5 CUPS

4¼ cups cloudy, dry apple cider

½ cup ginger beer

Juice of 1 orange

Zest and juice of 1 unwaxed lemon

1 cinnamon stick, plus more for serving

4 whole cloves

Pinch of freshly grated nutmeg

1 orange, sliced, for serving

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1 Saturate a sugar cube with bitters and a bar spoon of warm water at the bottom of an old-fashioned glass. Muddle until the sugar dissolves. Add whiskey and stir. Add one large piece of ice and stir until chilled, about 30 seconds. Twist a piece of orange zest over the drink and drop into the glass.

2 ounces bourbon or rye

2 dashes Angostura bitters

1 sugar cube

Orange twist

Old-Fashioned Whiskey Cocktail

3-Ingredient Cocktails by Robert Simonson — This is the basic formula for an old-fashioned, be it 1887 or 2017. Whether you reach for mellow bourbon or spicy rye is a matter of choice; both work wonderfully in the drink. If you’re lacking a muddler (or gumption), a bar spoon of simple syrup will do the job of the sugar cube.

Photograph: C

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European Drinking Chocolate

1 Combine 1 cup of milk and the brown sugar in a large heatproof bowl set over a pot of simmering water. Heat the milk mixture until steaming, whisking occasionally.

2 Whisk the chocolate into the hot milk, keeping the bowl over the double boiler to continue heating it. Whisk for an additional 3 minutes, until shiny and emulsified. It may seem quite thick.

3 Whisk in the rest of the milk, adding it in a slow stream, and heat for another 4 to 5 minutes, whisking occasionally, until the mixture is steaming.

4 Remove the bowl from the pot of water and pour the hot chocolate into mugs. Serve immediately. We recommend it with a few marshmallows, if desired.

MAKES FIVE 4-OUNCE SERVINGS

2 cups whole milk

1 tablespoon packed light brown sugar

1½ cups chopped 70% chocolate

Marshmallows for serving (optional)

Making Chocolate by Todd Masonis, Greg D’Alesandre, Lisa Vega and Molly Gore — This hot chocolate is our most popular drink, and it tastes a lot like a pure melted chocolate bar. It’s a rich sipping chocolate, a cross between the strong, water-based hot chocolate in Paris and the almost thick-as-pudding Italian kind. An Italian customer once told us it was better than anything he could find at home, and we’ll just go ahead and believe him.

3 Bottles,3 Cocktailswith Robert Simonson

Try your hand at a Manhattan by stirring 2 oz. rye, 1 oz. sweet

vermouth, and 2 dashes of Angostura bitters in an ice-filled glass and then straining into a coupe

with a brandied cherry.

To turn that sherry into a La Perla, stir 1½ oz.

reposado tequila, 1½ oz. manzanilla sherry, and

¾ oz. pear liqueur in an ice-filled glass, and then strain into a chilled glass

with a lemon twist.

Make a Boulevardier by mixing 1 oz. bourbon, 1 oz. sweet vermouth, and 1 oz. Campari in a glass

with ice and serving with a lemon twist.

RYE SHERRY CAMPARI3 Bottles,3 Cocktailswith Robert Simonson

Have a bottle of one of these

liquors lying around? Here

are some three-ingredient

cocktails from Robert

Simonson that will help you

out with holiday entertaining.

Thanks to our friends: