Suspension Tuning Guide

Table of Contents

Introduction..........................................................................................................................3Learning the Lingo............................................................................................................4

Bottoming (also called bottoming out)............................................................................4Compression Damping....................................................................................................4Damping Rod Fork..........................................................................................................4Fork Oil Level..................................................................................................................4Free Sag...........................................................................................................................5High-Speed Damping......................................................................................................5Low-Speed Damping.......................................................................................................5Packing............................................................................................................................5Preload.............................................................................................................................5Preload Spacer.................................................................................................................5Rake.................................................................................................................................5Rebound Damping...........................................................................................................5Ride Height......................................................................................................................5Sag...................................................................................................................................6Spring...............................................................................................................................6Suspension Fluid..............................................................................................................6Topping Out.....................................................................................................................6Trail..................................................................................................................................6Triple Clamp Offset.........................................................................................................6Unsprung Weight.............................................................................................................6Valving............................................................................................................................6

Handling.............................................................................................................................7Terry Tankslapper............................................................................................................7Marshmallow Ride Mike.................................................................................................8Rear-Swapping Richard...................................................................................................8Rough Riding Ricky........................................................................................................9Bottoming Barry..............................................................................................................9Heavy Handed Hank......................................................................................................10Understeering Ernie.......................................................................................................10

Dialing It In......................................................................................................................11Setting Static Sag...........................................................................................................11Street..............................................................................................................................11Track..............................................................................................................................12Strip................................................................................................................................13

Suspension Troubleshooting Symptoms........................................................................14Lack of Rebound Damping (FORK).............................................................................14Too Much Rebound Damping (FORK).........................................................................14Lack of Compression Damping (FORK).......................................................................15Too Much Compression Damping (FORK)..................................................................15

Lack of Rebound Damping (REAR SHOCK)...............................................................15Too Much Rebound Damping (REAR SHOCK)..........................................................15Lack of Compression Damping (REAR SHOCK)........................................................16Too Much Compression Damping (REAR SHOCK)....................................................16

Suggested Suspension Settings........................................................................................16Aprilia............................................................................................................................16BMW.............................................................................................................................17Buell...............................................................................................................................17Ducati.............................................................................................................................18Honda.............................................................................................................................19Kawasaki........................................................................................................................22Laverda..........................................................................................................................23Moto-Guzzi....................................................................................................................24Suzuki............................................................................................................................24Triumph.........................................................................................................................26Yamaha..........................................................................................................................27

Suspension Tuning Guide

Introduction

Ahh, today's sportbikes...aren't they great? Acceleration and power that make the best motorcycles of a decade ago pale in comparison, all rolled up into increasingly compact, yet hospitable packages that don't require Mick Doohan-type skill to access. There's a nice feeling of satisfaction that comes from blowing the doors off of a $120,000 Porsche with a simple twist-of-the-wrist on your $10,000-or-less (insert your brand here) sportbike. In pursuit of that speed, however, the level of sophistication and technology present in the latest two-wheeled machinery has reached unbelievable heights.

That level of sophistication has brought along a few complications. Today's sportbikes not only have incredible straight-line speed, but also their handling capabilities are on par with (if not surpassing) the best racing superbikes of a decade ago. This has required chassis technology to keep pace with the rapid engine development, leading to suspension components bristling with multiple adjustments that can easily confuse the average rider. Sure, spring preload is easy enough to understand; but what the heck is rebound damping? And what does it do with regards to a motorcycle's handling? Should I go toward the stiff end of the spectrum, or the other way? Where do I begin?

Tuning suspension isn't as complicated as it looks; it requires a basic understanding of suspension theory, and how the various components affect suspension action. Once you've got that handled, establishing a basic plan of attack in solving a particular handling problem won't appear so daunting.

What we're going to do in the following pages is make that task of dialing in your sportbike's suspension easier. We'll start by giving you a basic overview of the principles behind spring rates, and rebound and compression damping (no major theoretical essays here; just the basics). We'll also show diagrams that dissect various fork and shock components, and describe how they work so you can see which adjuster does what task.

The next section will include a variety of typical handling problem scenarios encountered by sportbike riders, broken down into two parts: the problem and then possible solutions to start a careful, organized plan of attack. Also included is a detailed chart that specifies handling characteristics that fall on each side of every suspension adjustment (for example, too much compression damping results in this, too little results in that).

There's a section that gives chassis and suspension setup tips for aggressive canyon/street riding, racetrack/riding school days and/or racing; and dragracing, too. And finally, we've included a listing of aftermarket suspension tuning and component companies, so that you can get the pieces and final advice quickly.

This guide will help you gain a better grasp of your sportbike's suspension and how to dial it in to get the most out of your motorcycle. After all, having horsepower is one thing, but if you can't get it to the ground, you'd just as soon be better off on a 50cc moped. Read, learn and enjoy.

--Kent Kunitsugu

Learning the Lingo

Every activity has its own language. Learning a new skill sometimes feels as if it requires scaling a linguistic learning curve that makes surmounting Mt. Everest seem like a day hike.

To the uninitiated--not that any Sport Rider reader could be accused of this--the language of motorcyclists can seem just as daunting. So, to make sure we're all standing on top of the same hill, peruse the terminology below to help speed yourself along to suspension enlightenment.

Bottoming (also called bottoming out)--when a suspension component reaches the end of its travel under compression. Bottoming is the opposite of topping out. Cartridge Fork--a sophisticated type of fork that forces oil through bending shims mounted to the face of damping pistons contained within the fork body. The primary advantage of cartridge forks is they are less progressive than damping rod forks. The shims allow damping control at very low suspension speeds while high speeds deflect the shims more--causing less high-speed damping than fixed orifice damping rods. The resulting ride is firmer with less dive under braking while simultaneously lessening the amount of force square-edged bumps transfer to the chassis.

Compression Damping--controls the initial "bump stroke" of the suspension. As the wheel is forced upward by the bump, the compression circuit controls the speed at which the suspension compresses, helping to keep the spring from allowing an excessive amount of travel or bottoming of the suspension. Damping--viscous friction caused by forcing a fluid through some type of restriction. Damping force is determined by the speed of the fluid movement, not the distance of suspension

travel.

Damping Rod Fork--a simple type of fork that utilizes a tube with holes in it to create compression and rebound damping, delivering an extremely progressive damping curve. The faster the wheel moves vertically, the more oil that is shoved through the holes. Typically, damping rod forks have very little low-speed damping and a great deal of high-speed damping. The ride is characterized by excessive fork dive under braking and hydraulic lock when encountering square-edged bumps. Any change to the damping rod system, such as changing the size of the holes or altering the oil viscosity, affects the entire speed range.

Fork Oil Level--the level of oil within the fork as measured when fully compressed without the spring installed. It is used in tuning the amount of air contained inside the fork. Since compressing air makes it act as a spring, raising the oil level leaves less room for air, resulting in a rising rate throughout the fork's travel. Reducing the oil level

reduces the force at the bottom, giving a more linear rate.

Free Sag--the amount the bike settles under its own weight. Both streetbikes and race bikes require 0 to 5mm of free sag on the rear. The bike should not top out hard.

This is DAMPING

This is DAMPENING

These are the good old days! Adjusting the fork preload is as easy as opening the bike's tool kit.

High-Speed Damping--damping to control fast vertical movements of suspension components caused by road characteristics such as square-edged bumps. High-Speed damping is independent of motorcycle speed.

Low-Speed Damping--damping to control slow vertical suspension movements such as those caused by ripples in pavement. (This is also independent of motorcycle speed.)

Packing--a phenomenon caused by excessive rebound damping. When a series of bumps, such as ripples, are encountered the suspension does not rebound completely between bumps and compresses (packs) further down on each successive bump. This can drastically change steering geometry if packing occurs on only one end of the motorcycle.

Preload--the distance a spring is compressed from its free length as it's installed with the suspension fully extended. Preload Adjuster--a method of adjusting suspension components' preload externally. These can be ramped or threaded.

Preload Spacer--material used to adjust a fork's preload internally. Typically, thin-walled aluminum or PVC tubing is used.

Rake--the steering neck angle (not the fork angle) relative to vertical, which varies with changes in ride height. For example, the rake angle decreases when the front end compresses or is lowered. Changes in tire diameter can also influence rake by altering the ride height.

Rebound Damping--controls the extension of the fork or shock after it compresses over a bump--hence the term "rebound."

Ride Height--suspension adjustments (raising or lowering the fork or lengthening or shortening the shock) to alter the chassis attitude of

the motorcycle.

Sag--the amount the front or rear of the bike compresses between fully topped out and fully loaded with a rider (and all of his riding gear) on board in the riding position. Sag can also affect steering geometry. Extra sag on the front end will decrease the effective steering head angle, quickening steering, while too little front sag will slow steering. However, too much front sag combined with too little rear sag could make the bike unstable. How to set your sag

The fork rebound adjuster, like all the damping controls, screws in for firmer and out for softer.

The compression damping adjuster usually resides on the lower portion of the fork.

Shock preload can be altered with a spanner wrench or with the time honored hammer and punch.

Spring--a mechanical device, usually in the form of a coil, that stores energy. When compressed, more energy is stored. Springs are position sensitive, caring only how much they have been compressed, not how quickly (as with damping).

Suspension Fluid--used inside a shock absorber to create damping when forced through orifices or valving. The fluid is also used for lubrication and should be incompressible.

Topping Out--occurs when the suspension extends to its limit. A shock with a spring of the proper rate mounted should have just enough force to top out without a rider on board.

Trail--the horizontal distance between the front end's point of rotation (i.e. where a line drawn through the steering head would intersect the ground) and the contact patch of the tire. Since trail is dependent on rake, it is a variable dimension that changes proportionally with the variation of rake during suspension action. For example, trail drops off dramatically when the bike reaches full dive under braking, giving a rider more leverage to initiate steering inputs.

Triple Clamp Offset--the distance from the center of the fork tubes to the steering stem center. The greater the offset, the smaller the trail dimension.

Unsprung Weight--the weight of every part of the motorcycle that is between the road and suspension (i.e. wheels, brakes, suspension components below the springs, etc.).

Valving--the mechanical hardware that creates damping. Valving is a combination of check valves, holes, ports, shims, springs, etc.

Handling

Trying to figure out a handling problem can be tricky. It's hard enough dealing with the intricacies of spring preload, rebound damping, etc., but when a definite problem forces you to back off the throttle and take notice, trying to determine the root cause of a handling difficulty can be downright baffling. Is it the front or rear causing it? And how do I know if rebound or compression damping adjustments will help?

In this section, we've come up with some of the most common handling complaints that afflict the average rider. Some of these problems occur entering the corner, some of them happen in midcorner, and others can even cause difficulty exiting a corner. Take a close

Contrary to the fork's controls, rear rebound damping is changed from the bottom of the fork.

Change the shock's compression damping on the reservoir.

look at the various problem scenarios we've listed and see if one of them sounds similar to a dilemma you've been struggling with. Then try our suggested solutions to see if they make an improvement. Remember take it one step at a time, take a test ride after each change, and take notes on whether that change made a difference.

Terry Tankslapper

Problem: Terry's bike feels unstable, especially when entering turns. The bars seem to "twitch" excessively whenever a midcorner bump is encountered. The bars often whip back and forth violently several times (or more) when Terry is accelerating aggressively over bumps while coming out of a

turn--in other words, a "tankslapper." The bike steers very easily, although a lack of traction is sometimes noticeable in the rear whenever he tries to accelerate at moderate lean angles. The bike also seems to have a dropped-down, "nose low, rear-end-high" attitude while riding.

Solution: The biggest distinguishing factor in this case is the "nose-low/rear-end-high" chassis attitude feeling. If Terry's bike definitely feels this way, then probably he has too much front end weight bias. This not only hinders traction at the rear, but also affects the steering geometry (steeper rake/less trail) and can cause the instability problems. As long as Terry has his suspension static sag levels set correctly, the first step is to try less rear spring preload and/or more front preload, to the point just before they begin to affect handling negatively; Terry should remember to adjust his rebound damping if necessary (in fact, he should check to see if decreasing the front rebound damping in small increments helps; the forks may be too stiff, hindering traction). If only partially successful, a more drastic step would be changing chassis ride height; this would involve raising the front end by dropping the fork tubes in the triple clamps (if there's enough material protruding above the top clamp, to ensure front fork structural integrity), and/or dropping the rear by shortening the rear shock (if possible).

Note: We've also seen a tankslapping tendency produced by too much rearward weight bias. Terry might try working the opposite of the preceding paragraph solution, or check out the understeer/no front traction problem scenario for more suggestions.

Marshmallow Ride Mike

Problem: Although Mike's bike has a very smooth ride while riding over potholes and such in the city, once he's out in the canyons, his bike seems to "float" over the pavement like a luxury car, with little or no pavement feedback. When he starts to ride aggressively, the bike rocks back and forth excessively, especially during brake/throttle transitions, and the "floating" feeling becomes even more pronounced. Hard cornering makes the bike feel loose, almost as if it has a hinge in the middle. Mike's tires might begin to chatter midcorner when encountering bumps and accelerating over those bumps causes his bike to wallow or weave.

Solution: The problem here is generally not enough rebound damping. The ride is smooth and supple at low speeds, but higher speeds generate greater amounts of energy that can't be dissipated with the little damping available. As a general rule of thumb, if either end is pushed down firmly and quickly by hand, the suspension should return in a smooth, controlled manner without "rebounding" once or twice before settling down. Mike should try stiffening up the rebound damping in small steps, and remember to do the front and rear separately, not simultaneously; that way he can readily see if one or the other makes a difference. If Mike has the rebound damping cranked up to the maximum and his bike still feels soft and wallowy, he may need to rebuild the suspension components.

Rear-Swapping Richard

Problem: When Richard gets on the brakes aggressively while approaching a corner, the bike's rear end begins to swap side-to-side, and feels as if it wants to pivot around the front.

Solution: The cause here is way too much front end weight transfer under braking. The front end is compressing so low that the bike's weight tries to pivot around the steering head, causing the side-to-side movement. The quickest solutions here are to increase the front fork spring preload and/or raise the front ride height by dropping the fork tubes in the triple clamps, or decrease the rear ride height by shortening the shock (if possible). Richard should try increasing the fork spring preload first, and progressing in small increments until the handling begins to be negatively affected (remember to watch the rebound damping when increasing the spring preload). If that doesn't work, Richard should try the ride height modifications; watch for adverse handling reactions in other areas when doing this as ride height changes drastically affect how the bike corners. Other solutions to try--although less effective--are to increase the compression damping in the forks (if possible), or to decrease rebound damping in the rear (to allow the rear tire to follow the pavement quicker). Again, Richard should watch for adverse handling reactions in other riding situations when test riding.

Rough Riding Ricky

Problem: Ricky complains that his bike is uncomfortable and he feels every little bump in the road. He doesn't have any confidence because his bike feels nervous and twitchy, especially over bumpy sections where it doesn't absorb the bumps, and his tires lose grip easily. Diving into corners during track days, Ricky's bike is unstable and jumps around over every little bump and crack in the tarmac.

Solution: The rough ride Ricky is experiencing is most likely due to a generally too-stiff setup--with too much compression and rebound damping. First off, Ricky should set his rebound adjusters as outlined in the setup section, and back the compression adjusters out to no more than the middle of their range. This will give a starting point to work from, and get rebound damping in the ballpark. Dialing in the rebound more accurately can be

accomplished by riding the bike over a rough section of pavement; the suspension should not pack down (too stiff), nor should the bike be wallowy like a Cadillac (too soft). Riding the bike repeatedly over the same road after making small changes to the damping adjusters is a good way to distinguish between the characteristics and determine a good setting. Once the rebound is set properly, the compression damping can be fine-tuned according to the setup section. Once again, Ricky should make small changes between test sessions over the same road to help him feel and compare the different settings.

Bottoming Barry

Problem: When Barry brakes hard approaching a corner, the front fork bottoms out severely, especially over bumps. However, the fork action and overall bike handling is fine everywhere else.

Solution: The problem here is Barry's ride height is set up correctly for his riding style, but the fork action is obviously too soft whenever weight is transferred to the front (as when hard braking). Barry has stiffened up the fork spring preload before, and while it helped with the bottoming problem, it unfortunately made his bike's chassis attitude too front-end-high, adversely affecting handling. The cure here would be to raise the fork tubes in the triple clamps (starting in increments of 4mm), which lowers the front end; Barry could then increase fork spring preload without causing the ride height problems mentioned previously. Care should be taken to ensure that the front wheel/fender isn't getting too close to bottoming out on the lower triple clamp or radiator when lowering the front or raising the fork tubes. If the preload adjuster becomes maxed out during testing and dial-in, a set of heavier rate springs or a larger preload spacer (inside the fork) may be necessary.

Heavy Handed Hank

Problem: Hank says his bike's steering feels super heavy at low speeds, and once he gets his bike turning by using lots of muscle, it practically falls into corners.

Solution: These characteristics could be the result of a squared-off rear tire (too much straight-line riding) or notchy or too-tight steering head bearings; if Hank has a steering damper mounted, it may be adjusted too tight. Suspension-wise, heavy steering is a typical result of having rear ride height set too low, raking out the chassis like a chopper.

If Hank notices the same troubles after trying his bike with the steering damper backed off, checking his tire and adjusting his steering head bearings, the problem is most likely in his bike's chassis attitude. Front and rear sag should be checked and set correctly, followed by another ride to check for any changes in handling. If there is little or no change, Hank will have to gradually change his geometry by either raising the fork tubes in the triple clamps or--if he's lucky and has a rear ride-height adjuster--raising the rear of his bike. When dropping the front end of a bike by adjusting fork height, it's a good idea

to keep an eye on clearance between the front tire and radiator, and also--on a conventional fork--to ensure the sliders don't bottom out on the lower triple clamp.

Understeering Ernie

Problem: Ernie is having a lot of trouble with his bike's front end, especially while exiting turns. His front tire loses traction and pushes to the point where it's washed out on him a couple of times. He notes that steering is a bit heavy, and on uneven sections of pavement the front tire skips over bumps and

threatens to fold if pushed too hard.

Solution: The trouble Ernie is experiencing is probably due to a combination of sag and ride height settings that leaves his bike riding high up front. Having a front tire skip over bumps on the exit of a turn is a sign that the fork is topping out--without enough sack to allow the suspension to sink into depressions in the road.

Ernie should check his bike's front and rear sag settings to ensure correct spring preload. With the preload set, he should take his bike for a spin to determine if there's any change in its behavior. If the problems persist, backing off the front preload will drop the front of the bike a bit, quickening the steering and letting the wheel track over bumps more effectively. If, however, the fork starts to bottom under braking with the preload backed off, the fork tubes can be raised in the triple clamps to sharpen the steering while keeping the original preload setting.

Dialing It In

Setting Static Sag

One of the most important suspension settings is static sag-the amount your bike's suspension compresses when you sit on it. To set static sag, we use Race Tech mastermind Paul Thede's method, which takes into account any stiction in the components. It's best to have two friends to help-one to hold the bike while the other one measures-while you (fully dressed in your riding gear) do the compressing.

First, extend the front suspension completely. Measure from the seal wiper to the triple clamp for a conventional fork, or to the axle clamp for an inverted fork. Call this number L1. Sit on your bike in a normal riding position (or racing crouch if you're track-bound), and have one helper steady the bike. Your second helper should push down on the fork, let it extend slowly and then re-measure as before. This number is L2.

Finally, the fork should be extended by hand, settled slowly, and re-measured. This figure is L3. Halfway between L2 and L3 is where your suspension would settle if there were no friction in the system. Static sag can be calculated as follows: sag=L1-(L3+L2)/2. Repeat this process to determine the rear sag-measuring from the axle to a point directly above on the frame for each of the numbers. If you have too much or too little sag, dial in more or less (respectively) preload as needed

Street

One of the major keys to a successful suspension setup is the condition of the components. Before attempting any setting changes, check to make sure your bike's fork and shock are in good working order. This includes replacing leaky seals,

lubricating sticky linkage bushings, and changing old fork or shock oil. If your current components have more than 15,000 hard miles on them, you can bet it's time for a rebuild. Check your steering head bearings for notchiness or tightness and replace them if needed. And most importantly, squared-off or worn out tires will mask almost any suspension change you make.

The first step to a good setup is setting static sag. For street purposes, front sag should generally be between 30 and 35mm, and rear sag between 25 and 30mm. Don't vary from these numbers if you're heavier or lighter--that's the whole idea of measuring sag while you are on the bike. An easy way to check if your shock spring rate is in the ballpark is to measure the rear "free" sag, that is, the sag without your weight on the bike. This number should be between 0 and 5mm--with the bike off its stand and on its own, you should be able to lift the rear end just slightly and top out the suspension. If your bike is topped out at rest, you need a stiffer spring, because you have got a lot of preload dialed in to achieve the correct static sag. Alternately, if your bike has a lot of free sag (you can lift the rear a bunch before it tops out), you need a softer spring. One notable exception to the sag numbers is Yamaha's R1, which has substantially more front sag to keep the front end on the ground under power. Use the capsules (page 42) and subjective chart (page 48) to determine if you should mess with your R1's front preload.

Rebound damping can be initially set as follows: With the sag properly set and the bike at rest and off its stand, firmly push on the triple clamp (don't hold on the brake or push the handlebar) or seat. When you let go, the suspension should rebound quickly to its original position--but not beyond. If it takes more than approximately one second for the suspension to return to position, less rebound damping is needed. If the fork or shock over-extends past its free sag, and then compresses again, more rebound damping is required. Street riding entails many different pavement characteristics, and the road is generally bumpy compared to a racetrack, so it's better to err on the soft side if you are unsure. This will also give you the added benefit of a smooth ride for daily use; you can always dial in a tad more rebound when you get to your favorite road where the surface is more of a known quantity.

It is difficult to set compression damping without riding your motorcycle and feeling how its suspension works. What feels nice and plush at a standstill may turn out to be too harsh at speed, and compression damping is sometimes set by personal preference as opposed to a definite optimum. Start with the compression adjusters in the middle of their adjustment range, and take your bike for a spin. Working with the front and rear individually, soften the damping adjuster, and try your bike again over the same road. Is your handling better? Worse? The same? Try again, this time with the damping stiffer than what you started with. Continue experimenting, making adjustments accordingly. As with rebound damping, it's always best to err on the light side with compression, and for the same reasons.

One final check--with your bike off its stands, place your hands near the rear of the tank, and push down. A well-balanced setup will have both ends of your bike compressing and returning at approximately the same rate with this push. If the front compresses or rebounds different than the rear, attempt to match them, keeping within the parameters established individually.

Track

As with the street setup, first ensure that your bike's suspension components are in good working order, and you have relatively new tires installed. One word of caution regarding setup and tires: Don't get dragged into adjusting your suspension to account for tire wear over the course of a track day without

taking notes. You'll be amazed at how poorly your bike handles when you put new tires back on and keep the shagged-tire suspension settings.

In general, a bike set for track use is stiffer than a streetbike, due to the increased acceleration, braking and cornering forces involved. Static sag for track bikes should be in the range of 25 to 30mm--somewhat tighter on the fork than a street setup. Similarly, compression and rebound damping should be somewhat stiffer. Avoid tightening your rebound arbitrarily; you still want the suspension to rebound within one second to its static position after pressing on the bike, but not overshoot.

If you have a ride height adjuster on your aftermarket shock, set it to the same length as the stock unit for a start. Similarly, begin with your fork at the stock height in the triple clamps. Use the handling scenarios (page 42) and the chart (page 48) to determine if you need to change your bike's attitude. Generally, for a track bike with a steering damper, you'll want to quicken the steering as much as possible by lowering the front end or raising the rear, while still retaining stability and without sacrificing rear end traction.

For track riding, it's important to take good notes--and lots of them. Along with your initial settings, you should also write down some baseline figures for things such as fork oil weight and amount, ride height, spring rates, and so on. Record any changes you make so that you can refer to them later. Also, keep notes for different tracks--as your setup will change depending where you are and the conditions. Once you find that "magic"

setup, don't be afraid to deviate from it and experiment; you may be able to improve on what you have, and you can always go back to what you wrote down in your notes.

Strip

While roadracers set up their suspensions to allow their tires to follow the contours of the pavement, dragracers have an entirely different set of goals. First and foremost, the center of gravity (CG) needs to be kept as low as possible. Second, suspension travel should be kept to a minimum. For dragracers, keeping the

front wheel down and the rear tire hooked up leaving the line is all that matters.

At first glance, trying to keep the front suspension as stiff as possible might seem strange, but once the theory is explained, the logic comes through. Dropping the front end three inches to keep the CG low is a no brainer: Running a low CG minimizes the rearward weight shift as a bike starts to launch. The lower stance is achieved by disassembling the fork and inserting three inch spacers between the stanchions and sliders--effectively reducing the fork's ability to extend by three inches.

Ironically, the same desire to keep the CG low is behind the stiff front suspension. Once the fork is lowered, the preload gets cranked all the way up. Both the compression and rebound damping get dialed in to their firmest settings. Finally, 15 to 20 weight oil is used to further minimize fork movement. By keeping the front suspension immobile, the entire forward end of the motorcycle acts as a single unit and is much harder to lift off the ground. If the front suspension has sag and is allowed to rebound at the launch, the chassis can gain enough momentum to lift the front wheel off the ground when the suspension tops out. Instead, a rigid suspension acts as a dead weight helping to keep the tire planted.

The goal of keeping the front tire earthbound does not mean that dragracers want the additional drag the wheel can put on the bike, though. Many racers run the tire pressure at 35 psi or higher for less rolling resistance. Also, making sure that the bearings are nice and loose will lessen drag.

The back of the bike needs to be firm, too--but not overly stiff. The lower ride height in the rear can be achieved by lengthening the rear linkage's dog bone so that the rear of the bike drops approximately four inches. Although some people think that running a strut instead of a shock will help their bike launch, Rickey Gadson, Kawasaki Factory dragracer, says that being able to tune the rear suspension's firmness is critical to maintaining good rear wheel traction. On smooth tracks, the shock can be run stiff, but on a rough track, the rear needs to be softened until the tire stays hooked up. Bikes with struts will be hurt on poor tracks. Rear tire pressure should be dialed in to suit conditions, too. Surprisingly, Gadson says he starts with approximately 30 pounds and adjusts the pressure based on how much traction he's able to maintain. His theory about tire pressure is that running the most pressure possible--while still keeping the rear tire hooked up--lessens the rolling resistance of the tire.

Suspension Troubleshooting Symptoms

Here are some basic symptoms of suspension damping problems that you might find affecting your bike. Remember these are extreme examples; your symptoms may be more subtle. You may also have to find an acceptable compromise on either end of the adjustment spectrum. It all depends on how the bike's handling "feels" to you.

Lack of Rebound Damping (FORK) The fork offers a supremely plush ride, especially when riding straight up. When

the pace picks up, however, the feeling of control is lost. The fork feels mushy, and traction "feel" is poor.

After hitting bumps at speed, the front tire tends to chatter or bounce. When flicking the bike into a corner at speed, the front tire begins to chatter and

lose traction. This translates into an unstable feel at the clip-ons. As speed increases and steering inputs become more aggressive, a lack of control

begins to appear. Chassis attitude and pitch become a real problem, with the front end refusing to stabilize after the bike is countersteered hard into a turn.

Too Much Rebound Damping (FORK) The ride is quite harsh--just the opposite of the plush feel of too little rebound.

Rough pavement makes the fork feel as if it's locking up with stiction and harshness.

Under hard acceleration exiting bumpy corners, the front end feels like it wants to "wiggle" or "tankslap." The tire feels as if it isn't staying in contact with the pavement when on the gas.

The harsh, unforgiving ride makes the bike hard to control when riding through dips and rolling bumps at speed. The suspension's reluctance to maintain tire traction through these sections erodes rider confidence.

Lack of Compression Damping (FORK) Front end dive while on the brakes becomes excessive. The rear end of the motorcycle wants to "come around" when using the front

brakes aggressively. The front suspension "bottoms out" with a solid hit under heavy braking and after

hitting bumps. The front end has a mushy and semi-vague feeling--similar to lack of rebound

damping.

Too Much Compression Damping (FORK) The ride is overly harsh, especially at the point when bumps and ripples are

contacted by the front wheel. Bumps and ripples are felt directly; the initial "hit" is routed through the chassis

instantly, with big bumps bouncing the tire off the pavement.

The bike's ride height is effected negatively--the front end winds up riding too high in the corners.

Brake dive is reduced drastically, though the chassis is upset significantly by bumps encountered during braking.

Lack of Rebound Damping (REAR SHOCK) The ride is plush at cruising speeds, but as the pace increases, the chassis begins

to wallow and weave through bumpy corners. This causes poor traction over bumps under hard acceleration; the rear tire starts

to chatter due to a lack of wheel control. There is excessive chassis pitch through large bumps and dips at speed and the

rear end rebounds too quickly, upsetting the chassis with a pogo-stick action.

Too Much Rebound Damping (REAR SHOCK) This creates an uneven ride. The rear suspension compliance is poor and the

"feel" is vague. Traction is poor over bumps during hard acceleration (due to lack of suspension

compliance). The bike wants to run wide in corners since the rear end is "packing down"; this

forces a nose-high chassis attitude, which slows down steering. The rear end wants to hop and skip when the throttle is chopped during aggressive

corner entries.

Lack of Compression Damping (REAR SHOCK) There is too much rear end "squat" under acceleration; the bike wants to steer

wide exiting corners (since the chassis is riding rear low/nose high). Hitting bumps at speed causes the rear to bottom out, which upsets the chassis. The chassis attitude is affected too much by large dips and G-outs. Steering and control become difficult due to excessive suspension movement.

Too Much Compression Damping (REAR SHOCK) The ride is harsh, though not quite as bad as too much rebound; the faster you go,

the worse it gets, however. Harshness hurts rear tire traction over bumps, especially during deceleration.

There's little rear end "squat" under acceleration. Medium to large bumps are felt directly through the chassis; when hit at speed,

the rear end kicks up.

Suggested Suspension Settings

These tables show suggested suspension settings for each bike. You can also use the tables to find which issues of Sport Rider each bike was tested.

Aprilia | BMW | Buell | Ducati | Honda | Kawasaki | Laverda | Moto-Guzzi | Suzuki | Triumph | Yamaha |

Apriliamotorcycle issue front

preload front

rebound damping

front comp.

damping

rear preload rear rebound damping

rear comp.

damping note:

RST1000 Futura ('05)

2/05 3 lines showing

1 turn out from full stiff

n/a 3 turns out from full stiff

9 clicks from full

stiff

n/a

note:RSV Mille

('00) 4/00 6 lines

showing 1.5 turns

out 1 turns

out 35mm from top

of threads 7 clicks

out 22 clicks

out note: set fork tube height to 18mm above triple clamp, rear ride height to minimum RSV Mille

('00) 10/00 4 lines

showing .75 turn

out 1 turn

out 44mm from spring to top

thread

10 clicks out

10 clicks out

note: set fork tube height to 24mm above triple clamp, rear ride height to minimum, with Dunlop D207 GP Star tires

RSV Mille ('02)

10/02 4 lines showing

2 turns out

1 turn out

21mm thread showing

10 clicks out

8 clicks out

note: set fork tube height to 5 lines showing above top triple clamp, with Dunlop D208GP tires fitted

RSV Mille ('03)

10/03 2 lines showing

1.75 turns out

2 turns out

20mm thread showing

26 clicks out

8 clicks out

note: set fork tube height to 6 lines showing with Bridgestone BT-001 tires, 5 lines with stock tires. Set rear ride height to minimum

RSV Mille R ('02)

2/02 10 turns out from full stiff

8 clicks out

7 clicks out

25mm from top of spring to top

of threads

18 clicks out

10 clicks out

note: set fork tube height to 27mm above triple clamp, rear ride height to minimum RSV Mille

R ('05) 7/05 5 lines

showing 1.25

turns out from full

stiff

1.5 turns out from full stiff

11mm thread showing

37 clicks out from full stiff

1.75 turns out from full

stiff note: set fork tube height to 16mm, rear ride height one thread showing RSV Mille R Factory

('04)

2/04 9.5 turns out

9 clicks out

8 clicks out

42mm from top of spring to top

of threads

12 clicks out

12 clicks out

note: set fork tube height to 6 lines showing, rear ride height to 2mm thread showing below locknut on lower clevis

RSV Mille R Factory

('04)

9/04 9.5 turns out

7 clicks out

8 clicks out

45mm from top of spring to top

of threads

10 clicks out

15 clicks out

note: set fork tube height to 6 lines showing, rear ride height to 2mm thread showing below locknut on lower clevis

RSV Tuono ('03)

8/03 3 lines showing

1.75 tuns out

1.25 turns out

18mm thread showing

26 clicks out

7 clicks out

note: set fork tube height to 4 lines showing, rear ride height to minimum shock length

Tuono R Factory

('05)

12/05 8 turns out from full stiff

11 clicks out from full stiff

10 clicks out from full stiff

9mm thread showing

26 clicks out from full stiff

12 clicks out from full stiff

note: set fork tube height to 8mm showing above triple clamp, rear height 4mm thread showing

top

BMWmotorcycle issue front

preload front

rebound damping

front comp.

damping

rear preload rear rebound damping

rear comp.

damping note:

R1100S 2/00 n/a 10 clicks n/a 14 clicks out .5 turns n/a

('99) out out note:

R1150R ('02)

10/02 n/a 1 turn out

n/a 8 turns out 1 turn out

n/a

note:R1150RS

('05) 2/05 n/a 0.5 turns

out from full stiff

n/a 4 lines showing 1.25 turns out from full

stiff

n/a

note:top

Buellmotorcycle issue front

preload front

rebound damping

front comp.

damping

rear preload rear rebound damping

rear comp.

damping note:XB9R

Firebolt ('02)

10/02 0 lines showing

.75 turn out

12 turns out

position 5 of 7 1.5 turns out

3 turns out

note: set fork tube height to 7mm above top triple clamp, with Metzeler Rennsport tires; check there is sufficient slack in the front brake line when the fork is fully extended and rotate brake lever downward if necessary

XB12R Firebolt

('03)

12/03 4 lines showing

1.5 turns out

1.5 turns out

position 5 of 7 .5 turns out

1.5 turns out

note: set fork tube height to 10mm showing above top triple clamp XB12Ss

Lightning Long ('06)

12/05 5 lines showing

1.5 turns out from full stiff

1.5 turns out from full stiff

full soft 1.75 turns out from full

stiff

2 turns out from full stiff

note: set fork tube height to 13mm showing above triple clamp top

Ducatimotorcycle issue front

preload front

rebound damping

front comp.

damping

rear preload rear rebound damping

rear comp.

damping note:

748 ('98) 8/98 5 lines showing

10 clicks out

n/a 1.25 in. sag 1 turn out 2 turns out

note:748R ('00) 8/00 6 lines

showing 10 clicks

out 6 clicks

out 13mm thread

showing 1 turn out 1.75

turns out

note: set rear ride height to 3 turns from fully lowered, with 70-series front tire 900SS ('98)

2/99 4 lines showing

10 clicks out

12 clicks out

16mm from top of threads

1.25 turns out

1.25 turns out

note:SS1000 DS

('03) 12/03 4 lines

showing 12 clicks

out 15 clicks

out 9mm thread

showing 15 clicks

out 21 clicks

out note: set rear ride height to 5mm thread showing 916 ('96) 12/96 4 lines

showing 4 clicks

out soft 45 percent of

max. 3 clicks

out 26 clicks

out note:916 ('97) 12/97 4 lines

showing 4 clicks

out soft 20mm from top

of threads 4 clicks

out 3 clicks

out note:

916 ('98) 10/98 4 lines showing

4 clicks out

soft 20mm from top of threads

4 clicks out

3 clicks out

note:916 ('98) 12/98 4 lines

showing 4 clicks

out 12 clicks

out 1.25 in. sag 4 clicks

out 3 clicks

out note:996 ('99) 4/99 4 lines

showing 4 clicks

out 12 clicks

out 35mm 4 clicks

out 12 clicks

out note:996S ('00) 10/00 4 lines

showing 9 clicks

out 10 clicks

out 35mm from top of spring to top

thread

12 clicks out

14 clicks out

note: set fork tube height to 21mm from outside edge of top triple clamp, extend rear ride height linkage rod 3mm, with Dunlop D207 GP Star tires

998 ('02) 10/02 3 lines showing

8 clicks out

10 clicks out

35mm thread showing

14 clicks out

10 clicks out

note: set fork tube height to 3 lines showing above inner portion of top triple clamp, rear ride height to 6mm thread showing on linkage rod ends, with Dunlop D208GP tires fitted

999 ('03) 4/03 4 lines showing

8 clicks out

6 clicks out

26mm thread showing from top of spring

maximum 1 turn out

note: set fork tube height to 2 lines showing, rear ride height to 4mm thread showing on linkage shaft

999 ('03) 10/03 5 lines showing

8 clicks out

9 clicks out

14mm thread showing

.5 turns out

1 turn out

note: set fork tube height to 3.5 lines showing with Bridgestone BT-001 tires, 1.5 lines with stock tires. Set rear ride height to 3 threads showing

999 ('05) 7/05,12/05 4 lines showing

9 clicks out from full stiff

6 clicks out from full stiff

12mm thread showing

1 turn out from full

stiff

1 turn out from full stiff

note: set fork tube height to 6mm above triple clamp, rear ride height 9mm threat showing

999R ('05) 8/05 6 turns out

10 clicks out from full stiff

10 clicks out from full stiff

27mm thread showing

20 clicks out from full stiff

17 clicks out from full stiff

note: set fork tube height to 6mm showing, read with 8mm thread showing 999S ('04) 9/04 full stiff 12 clicks

out 12 clicks

out 47mm from top of spring to top

of threads

8 clicks out

9 clicks out

note: set fork tube height to 5 lines showing above triple clamp, rear ride height to 4mm thread showing on linkage shaft

Monster S4 ('02)

10/02 10 turns out

10 clicks out

12 clicks out

17mm thread showing

12 clicks out

2.25 turns out

note:Monster S4R ('05)

12/05 2 lines showing

7 clicks out from full stiff

full soft 8mm thread showing

.5 turns out from full stiff

1 turn out from full stiff

note: Set fork tube height to 5mm showing above triple clamp, rear with 4mm thread showing

ST4 ('99) 2/00 6 turns out

10 clicks out

2 clicks out

position 2 from soft

.5 turns out

.5 turns out

note:ST4S ('05) 2/05 1 line

showing 11 clicks out from full stiff

13 clicks out from full stiff

4 turns out from full stiff

11 clicks out from full stiff

20 clicks out from full stiff

note:top

Hondamotorcycle issue front

preload front

rebound damping

front comp.

damping

rear preload rear rebound damping

rear comp.

damping note:

CBR600F3 ('96)

12/96 1.5 lines showing

2 clicks out

n/a number 5 of 7 stiff 1 turn out

note: raise fork tubes 5mm in clamps CBR600F3

('97) 4/97 3 lines

showing 5 clicks

out n/a number 5 of 7 n/a .5 turns

out note: raise fork tubes 4mm in clamps CBR600F3

('98) 8/98 3 lines

showing 1 turn

out n/a 1.25 in. sag .25 turn

out .25 turn

out note:CBR600F4

('99) 6/99 stiff .5 turns

out 1.5 turns

out position 4 .5 turns

out 1 turn

out note: raise fork tubes 7mm in clamps with D207GP tires CBR600F4

('99) 12/99 2 lines

showing .5 turns

out 1.5 turns

out position 5 stiff 1 turn

out note:CBR600F4

('00) 10/00 2 lines

showing .5 turns

out 1.5 turns

out position 2 .25 turn

out 1 turn

out note: with Michelin Pilot Race tires CBR600F4i

('01) 6/02 3 lines

showing 1.25

turns out 1.25

turns out position 6 1.25

turns out 1.5 turns

out note: set fork tube height to 5mm above clip-on, with Dunlop D208GP tires fitted CBR600F4i

('01) 12/02 3 lines

showing 1.50

turns out 1.25

turns out position 6 1 turn

out 1.5 turns

out note: with Metzeler Rennsport tires fitted CBR600RR

('03) 6/03 3 lines

showing 1 turn

out 1.5 turns

out position 4 of 8 .5 turns

out 6 clicks

out note:CBR600RR

('04) 8/04 4 lines

showing 1 turn

out 1.5 turns

out position 5 of 7 .25 turn

out 5 clicks

out note: set fork tube height to 6mm showing above triple clamp with Dunlop D208

GP-A tires CBR600RR

('05) 4/05, 12/05

7 turns out from full stiff

2 turns out from full stiff

2.5 turns out from full stiff

position 6 from full soft

.75 turns out from full stiff

11 clicks out from full stiff

note: set fork tube height to 5mm showing above triple clamp CBR900RR

('96) 12/96 3 lines

showing .5 turns

out 1.5 turns

out number 6 of 7 stiff 1.5 turns

out note:CBR900RR

('97) 10/97 4 lines

showing .5 turns

out 2.5 turns

out position 4 of 7 .5 turns

out 2 turns

out note:CBR929RR

('00) 6/00 4 lines

showing 1.5 turns

out 2 turns

out position 6 of 9 1.5 turns

out 1 turn

out note:CBR929RR

('00) 8/00 stiff 1.5 turns

out 2 turns

out position 7 of 9 .75 turns

out .25 turn

out note: with Metzeler Rennsport race tires CBR929RR

('01) 12/02 stiff 1.5 turns

out 2 turns

out position 7 of 9 .75 turns

out .25 turn

out note: with Metzeler Rennsport tires fitted CBR954RR

('02) 6/02 nine

turns out 2.5 turns

out 2 turns

out position 5 of 9 2 turns

out 2 turns

out note:CBR954RR

('02) 8/02 8 turns

out 2.5 turns

out 1.5 turns

out position 6 from

soft 2.25

turns out 2 turns

out

note:CBR1000RR

('04) 6/04 14 turns

out 2 turns

out 2 turns

out position 8 of 10 2.5 turns

out 9 clicks

out note: set fork tube height to 2mm showing above triple clamp CBR1000RR

('05) 5/05 9 turns

out from full stiff

2 turns out from full stiff

2 turns out from full stiff

4 from full soft 2.5 turns out from full stiff

8 clicks out from full stiff

note: set fork tubes flush with triple clamp CBR1000RR

('06) 6/06 7 turns

out from full stiff

1.5 turns out from full stiff

2 turns out from full stiff

position 5 from full soft

3.5 turns out from full stiff

20 clicks out from full stiff

note: set fork tube height flush with triple clamp CBR1100XX

('97) 2/97 n/a n/a n/a standard sag 1 out n/a

note:CBR1100XX

('99) 8/99 n/a n/a n/a 45mm from top

of threads 1 turn

out n/a

note:RC51 ('00) 10/00 1 line

showing 6 clicks

out 15 clicks

out position 4 of 9 2 turns

out 14 clicks

out note: set fork tube height to 16mm above top triple clamp, with Dunlop D207 GP

Star tires RC51 ('00) 12/00 3 lines

showing 9 clicks

out 16 clicks

out position 4 of 9 1.25

turns out 15 clicks

out note: set fork tube height to 13mm above top triple clamp, with Metzeler

Rennsport tires RC51 ('02) 10/02 4 turns

out 2 turns

out 8 clicks

out position 5 of 8 1 turn

out 6 clicks

out note: set fork tube height to 1 line showing above top triple clamp, with Dunlop

D208GP tires fitted RC51 ('03) 10/03 6 turns

out 2.25

turns out 10 clicks

out position 5 from

full soft 1 turn

out 6 clicks

out note: set fork tube height to 1 line showing above top triple clamp RC51 ('03) 12/03 6 turns

out 2.25

turns out 10 clicks

out position 5 from

full soft 1 turn

out 6 clicks

out note: set fork tube height to 8mm from top triple clamp RC51 ('05) 7/05 8 turns

out from full stiff

1 turn out from full stiff

21 clicks out from full stiff

position 5 from full soft

1.5 turns out from full stiff

6 clicks out from full stiff

note: set fork tube height to 8mm ST1300

('05) 6/05 STD position 1 turn

out from full stiff

note:VFR800

('02) 4/02 2 lines

showing n/a n/a position 4 of 7 1 turn

out n/a

note:VFR800FI

('99) 2/00 2 lines

showing n/a n/a position 2 from

soft 1.25

turns out n/a

note:VFR800

Interceptor ('05)

2/05 1 line showing

n/a n/a 4 lines showing 0.5 turns out from full stiff

n/a

note:VTR1000

('97) 6/97 4 lines

showing 1 turn

out n/a number 3 .5 turns

out n/a

note:VTR1000

('97) 12/97 4 lines

showing 1 turn

out n/a number 3 .5 turns

out n/a

note:VTR1000 10/98 4 lines 1 turn n/a number 3 .5 turns n/a

('98) showing out out note:top

Kawasakimotorcycle issue front

preload front

rebound damping

front comp.

damping

rear preload rear rebound damping

rear comp.

damping note:ZX-6R ('97)

4/97 3 lines showing

2 clicks out

3 turns out

30mm down threaded collar

stiff 4 turns out

note: raise fork tubes 5mm in clamps ZX-6R ('98)

8/98 6 lines showing

5 clicks out

7 clicks out

1.125 in. sag 1 click out

3 clicks out

note:ZX-6R ('98)

12/98 2 lines showing

stiff 6 clicks out

1.25 in. sag stiff 3 clicks out

note:ZX-6R ('99)

6/99 5 lines showing

stiff 5 clicks out

15mm from top ring

3 clicks out

7 clicks out

note: raise fork tubes 10mm in clamps with D207GP tires ZX-6R ('00)

10/00 4 lines showing

stiff 7 clicks out

standard stiff 6 clicks out

note: with Michelin Pilot Race tires ZX-6R ('01)

6/02 5 lines showing

7 clicks out

11 clicks out

stock stiff 4 clicks out

note: set fork tube height to 10mm above top triple clamp, with Dunlop D208GP tires fitted

ZX-6R ('03)

6/03 4 lines showing

6 clicks out

full soft 30mm from top of spring to top

of threads

4 turns out

4.5 turns out

note: set fork tube height to 4mm above top triple clamp with Pirelli Supercorsa tires, 0mm with stock Dunlop D208ZR tires

ZX-6R ('04)

8/04 5 lines showing

9 clicks out

2.25 turns out

13mm thread showing

2 turns out

3.25 turns out

note: set fork tube height to 5mm above triple clamp with Dunlop D208 GP-A tires ZX-6R ('05)

4/05 3 lines showing

2.5 turns out from full stiff

1.5 turns out from full stiff

2 threads showing

14 clicks out from full stiff

0.75 turns out from full

stiff note: set fork tube height to 6mm above triple clamp

ZX-6RR ('04)

8/04 7 lines showing

11 clicks out

17 clicks out

19mm thread showing

10 clicks out

23 clicks out

note: set fork tube height to 10mm above triple clamp with Dunlop D208 GP-A tires ZX-6RR

('05) 6/05 4 lines

showing 2.5 turns out from full stiff

2 turns out from full stiff

minimum 8 clicks out from full stiff

1.5 turns out from full stiff

note:ZX-7R ('00)

6/00 4 lines showing

9 clicks out

4 clicks out

25mm thread showing

position 3 19 clicks out

note:ZX-9R ('97)

10/97 7 lines showing

1 click out

6 clicks out

90 percent of max

stiff 4 clicks out

note: raise fork tubes 6mm in clamps, raise rear 4mm ZX-9R ('98)

12/98 3 lines showing

4 clicks out

8 clicks out

1.25 in. sag 2 clicks out

12 clicks out

note:ZX-9R ('99)

12/99 5 lines showing

stiff 8 clicks out

1.25 in. sag 1 click out

15 clicks out

note:

ZX-9R ('00)

4/00 2 lines showing

3 clicks out

8 clicks out

6 turns out from soft

2 clicks out

10 clicks out

note:ZX-9R ('00)

8/00 4 lines showing

4 clicks out

4 clicks out

3 turns in from stock

3 clicks out

10 clicks out

note: with Metzeler Rennsport race tires ZX-9R ('02)

8/04 5 lines showing

1.25 turns out

1.25 turns out

15mm thread showing

5 turns out

3 turns out

note: set fork tube height to 5mm showing above triple clamp with Michelin Pilot race tires fitted

ZX-10R ('04)

6/04, 10/04

2 lines showing

9 clicks out

7 clicks out

22mm thread showing

1.75 turns out

5.5 turns out

note: set fork tube height to 3mm showing above triple clamp ZX-10R

('05) 5/05 5 lines

showing 4 clicks out from full stiff

7 clicks out from full stiff

14mm thread showing

1.5 turns out from full stiff

3.5 turns out from full stiff

note: set fork tubes flush with triple clamp ZX-10R

('06) 6/06 4 lines

showing 8 clicks out from full stiff

8 clicks out from full stiff

17mm thread showing

2.5 turns out from full stiff

2 turns out from full stiff

note: set fork tubes flush with triple clamp ZX-12R

('05) 10/05 5 lines

showing full soft full soft 10mm thread

showing 3.75

turns out from full

stiff

2.5 turns out from full stiff

note: set fork tube height flush with triple clamp Z1000 ('03)

8/03 1 line showing

.25 turns out

n/a 10mm thread showing

.25 turns out

n/a

note:ZX-11 ('97) 2/97 standard

sag 1 click

out n/a standard sag position 3 n/a

note:ZRX1100

('99) 10/99 3 lines

showing 1 click

out 5 clicks

out position 2 position 2 position 2

note:ZZR1200

('05) 6/05 7 lines

showing 2 turns

out from full stiff

position 3 position 3

note:top

Laverdamotorcycle issue front

preload front

rebound damping

front comp.

damping

rear preload rear rebound damping

rear comp.

damping note:750

Formula ('98)

2/99 4 lines showing

6 clicks out

6 clicks out

15mm from top of threads

6 clicks out

9 clicks out

note:Ghost ('98) 4/98 n/a 5 clicks

out 7 clicks

out 1.25 in. sag n/a 6 clicks

out note:top

Moto-Guzzimotorcycle issue front

preload front

rebound damping

front comp.

damping

rear preload rear rebound damping

rear comp.

damping

note:V11 Sport

('02) 10/02 n/a stiff stiff stock 7 clicks

out 34 clicks

out note:

top

Suzukimotorcycle issue front

preload front

rebound damping

front comp.

damping

rear preload rear rebound damping

rear comp.

damping note:

GSX-R600 ('97)

4/97 4 lines showing

.5 turns out

n/a 24mm down threaded collar

.5 turns out

1 turn out

note:GSX-R600

('97) 12/97 4 lines

showing .5 turns

out n/a 24mm down

threaded collar .5 turns

out 1 turn out

note:GSX-R600

('98) 8/98 4 lines

showing stiff 1 turn

out 1.125 in. sag 2 turns

out 1.25

turns out note:GSX-R600

('99) 6/99 4 lines

showing 1 turn

out 1 turn

out 15mm from top

ring .5 turns

out 2 turns

out note:GSX-R600

('00) 10/00 1 line

showing .75 turn

out 1 turn

out 12mm thread

showing .5 turns

out 2.25

turns out note: with Michelin Pilot Race tires GSX-R600

('01) 2/02 3 lines

showing .75 turn

out 1.75

turns out 12mm thread

showing .75 turns

out .25 turn

out note:GSX-R600

('01) 6/02 3 lines

showing .75 turn

out 1.75

turns out 11mm thread

showing .75 turns

out .75 turns

out note: set fork tube height to 8mm above top triple clamp, with Dunlop D208GP tires

fitted GSX-R600

('01) 12/02 3 lines

showing .75 turn

out 1.75

turns out 12mm thread

showing .75 turns

out .75 turns

out note: set fork tube height 6mm raised from stock, with Metzeler Rennsport tires

fitted GSX-R600

('03) 6/03 4 lines

showing 1 turn

out 1 turn

out 32mm from top of spring to top

of threads

full stiff 2 turns out

note: set fork tube height to 5mm showing above triple clamp GSX-R600

('04) 6/04 4 lines

showing .75 turn

out 1.75

turns out 9mm thread

showing 1.25

turns out 1.5 turns

out note: set fork tube height to 5mm showing above triple clamp GSX-R600

('04) 8/04, 10/04

5 lines showing

.5 turns out

1.75 turns out

9mm thread showing

2.5 turns out

1.5 turns out

note: set fork tube height to 8mm above top triple clamp, with Dunlop D208 GP-A tires fitted

GSX-R600 ('05)

3/05, 4/05

6 lines showing

.75 turns out from full stiff

1.75 turns out from full

stiff

10mm thread showing

2.5 turns out from full stiff

1.5 turns out from full stiff

note: set for tube height to 400 above triple clamp GSX-R750

('96) 12/96 2 lines

showing .5 turns

out 1 turn

out 65 percent of

max. stiff 1.5 turns

out note:GSX-R750

('97) 12/97 2 lines

showing .5 turns

out 1 turn

out 65 percent of

max. stiff 1.25

turns out note:GSX-R750 4/98 5 lines 1.25 1.5 turns 42mm 1 turn 2 turns

('98) showing turns out out out out note:GSX-R750

('98) 12/98 4 lines

showing 1.25

turns out 1.5 turns

out 42mm from top

of threads 1 turn

out 2 turns

out note:GSX-R750

('00) 8/00 2 lines

showing 1 turn

out 1 turn

out 23mm from top of shock threads to top of spring

1 turn out

1 turn out

note:GSX-R750

('00) 12/00 2 lines

showing stiff 1 turn

out 28mm from top of shock threads

1 turn out

1 turn out

note: set fork tube height to 14mm from top triple clamp, with Metzeler Rennsport tires fitted

GSX-R750 ('04)

8/04 3 lines showing

.75 turn out

2 turns out

9mm thread showing

2.5 turns out

2.5 turns out

note: set fork tube height to 10mm showing above triple clamp GSX-R750

('04) 10/04 4 lines

showing .75 turn

out 2 turns

out 9mm thread

showing 2.5 turns

out 2.5 turns

out note: set fork tube height to 10mm showing above triple clamp

GSX-R1000 ('01)

6/02 3 lines showing

4 clicks out

4 clicks out

21mm thread showing

8 clicks out

5 clicks out

note: set fork tube height to 4mm from top triple clamp GSX-

R1000 ('01)

12/02 2 lines showing

3 clicks out

4 clicks out

24mm thread showing

6 clicks out

5 clicks out

note: set fork tube height 6mm raised from stock, with Metzeler Rennsport tires fitted

GSX-R1000 ('02)

8/02 3 lines showing

5 clicks out

10 clicks out

20mm thread showing

6 clicks out

8 clicks out

note: set fork tube height to 5mm above top triple clamp, 11mm with Michelin Pilot Race 2 tires fitted

GSX-R1000 ('03)

8/03 5 lines showing

6 clicks out

10 clicks out

26mm from top of threads to preload ring

12 clicks out

6 clicks out

note: set fork tube height to 7mm showing from top of triple clamp GSX-

R1000 ('03)

12/03 5 lines showing

6 clicks out

10 clicks out

26mm from top of threads to preload ring

12 clicks out

6 clicks out

note: set fork tube height to 7mm showing from top of triple clamp GSX-

R1000 ('04)

6/04 5 lines showing

6 clicks out

10 clicks out

22mm thread showing

12 clicks out

7 clicks out

note: set fork tube height to 4mm thread showing above triple clamp GSX-

R1000 ('05)

5/05, 12/05, 8/05

4 lines showing

1 click out from full stiff

13 clicks out from full stiff

14mm thread showing

8 clicks out from full stiff

13 clicks out from full stiff

note: set fork tube height to 8mm showing above triple clamp GSX-

R1000 ('06)

6/06 4 lines showing

2 clicks out from full stiff

13 clicks out from full stiff

16mm thread showing

9 clicks out from full stiff

13 clicks out from full stiff

note: set fork tube height to 8mm above triple clamp TL1000R

('98) 10/98 8 lines

showing 4 clicks

out 8 clicks

out 1.25 in. sag stiff fulll soft

note:TL1000R

('98) 12/98 2 lines

showing 4 clicks

out 8 clicks

out 1.25 in. sag stiff 6 clicks

out note:TL1000R

('00) 6/00 5 lines

showing 7 clicks

out 10 clicks

out 5mm thread

showing 5 clicks

out 21 clicks

out note:

TL1000R ('00)

10/00 1 line showing

2 clicks out

10 clicks out

17mm from top of spring to top

thread

5 clicks out

fulll soft

note: set fork tube height to 13mm above top triple clamp, with Dunlop D207 GP Star tires

TL1000S ('97)

6/97 4 lines showing

1 turn out

4 clicks out

15mm from top of threads

.5 turns out

3.5 turns out

note: raise fork tubes 4mm in clamps TL1000S

('99) 10/99 stiff 1 turn

out 2 turns

out 20mm from top

of threads 2.25

turns out 1.5 turns

out note: raise fork tubes 4mm in clamps SV1000S

('03) 8/03 6 lines

showing .5 turns

out 1.5 turns

out 12mm thread

showing 1 turn

out 2.25

turns out note:

GSX-R1100 ('97)

10/97 3 lines showing

2 clicks out

10 clicks out

70 percent of max

stiff 8 clicks out

note:GSX1300R Hayabusa

('99)

12/99 5 lines showing

3 clicks out

8 clicks out

15mm thread showing

5 clicks out

7 clicks out

note:GSX1300R Hayabusa

('01)

10/02 4 lines showing

2 clicks out

9 clicks out

15mm thread showing

9 clicks out

10 clicks out

note:GSX1300R Hayabusa

('99)

8/99 5 lines showing

3 clicks out

8 clicks out

15mm from top of threads

5 clicks out

7 clicks out

note:GSX1300R Hayabusa

('05)

10/05 4 lines showing

2 clicks out from full stiff

8 clicks out from full stiff

20mm thread showing

10 clicks out from full stiff

7 clicks out from full stiff

note:top

Triumphmotorcycle issue front

preload front

rebound damping

front comp.

damping

rear preload rear rebound damping

rear comp.

damping note:TT600 ('00)

10/00 4 lines showing

4 clicks out

3 clicks out

29mm thread showing

6 clicks out

2 clicks out

note: with Michelin Pilot Race tires TT600 ('01)

6/02 3 lines showing

3 clicks out

5 clicks out

35mm thread showing

3 clicks out

7 clicks out

note: set fork tube height to 5mm above clip-on, with Dunlop D208GP tires fitted Daytona 600 ('03)

12/03 4 lines showing

2 clicks out

4 clicks out

42mm thread from top of

spring to top of threads

4 clicks out

6 clicks out

note:Daytona 650 ('05)

4/05 7 lines showing

1 click out from full stiff

1 click out from full stiff

32mm thread showing

3 clicks out from full stiff

0.25 turns out from full

stiff note: Set fork tubes flush with top on clip-ons

Daytona ('97)

8/97 4 lines showing

stiff 1 turn out

stiff 2.5 turns out

2.5 turns out

note:Daytona 6/00 3 lines .75 turns 1.5 turns 10mm thread 1.5 turns 1.5 turns

('00) showing out out showing out out note:

Daytona ('02)

2/02 4 lines showing

1 turn out

1.5 turns out

25mm from top of spring to end

of threads

1.5 turns out

2 turns out

note: set fork tube height to 5mm above top triple clamp Speed

Triple ('97) 8/97 4 lines

showing 1 turn

out 2 turns

out 12mm from top

of threads 1 turn

out 4.5 turns

out note:

Speed Triple ('02)

10/02 3 lines showing

1.5 turns out

1.75 turns out

5mm thread showing

1.5 turns out

1.25 turns out

note:Speed

Triple ('05) 12/05 2 lines

showing 1.5 turns out from full stiff

1.25 turns out from full

stiff

5mm thread showing

1.75 turns out from full

stiff

2 turns out from full stiff

note: set fork tube height flush with triple clamp Sprint ST

('00) 2/00 1 line

showing n/a n/a 10 clicks out .5 turns

out n/a

note:Sprint ST

('05) 2/05 1 line

showing n/a n/a 6 turns out from

full stiff full stiff n/a

note:top

Yamahamotorcycle issue front

preload front

rebound damping

front comp.

damping

rear preload rear rebound damping

rear comp.

damping note:

FJR1300 ('05)

6/05 2 lines showing

4 clicks out from full stiff

7 clicks out from full stiff

hard position 3 clicks out from full stiff

note:YZF600R

('97) 4/97 2 lines

showing 3 clicks

out 2 turns

out stiff 3 clicks

out 1.5 turns

out note:YZF600R

('98) 8/98 stiff stiff 2 clicks

out 1.25 in. sag 3 clicks

out 3 clicks

out note:

YZF-R6 ('99)

6/99 1 line showing

3 clicks out

3 clicks out

position 6 8 clicks out

7 clicks out

note: raise fork tubes 9mm in clamps with D207GP tires YZF-R6 ('99)

12/99 6 lines showing

3 clicks out

3 clicks out

position 4 from soft

8 clicks out

7 clicks out

note: raise fork tubes 5mm from stock with Pirelli Dragon EVO tires YZF-R6 ('00)

10/00 7 lines showing

2 clicks out

6 clicks out

position 4 from soft

10 clicks out

7 clicks out

note: with Michelin Pilot Race tires YZF-R6 ('00)

12/00 3 lines showing

2 clicks out

6 clicks out

position 4 from soft

8 clicks out

8 clicks out

note: set fork tube height to 12mm from clip-on with Metzeler Rennsport tires fitted YZF-R6 ('01)

6/02 3 lines showing

4 clicks out

8 clicks out

position 6 from soft

7 clicks out

7 clicks out

note: set fork tube height to 10mm above flat portion of clip-on, with Dunlop D208GP tires fitted

YZF-R6 ('01)

12/02 3 lines showing

4 clicks out

8 clicks out

position 6 from soft

6 clicks out

8 clicks out

note: set fork tube height 10mm raised from stock, with Metzeler Rennsport tires fitted

YZF-R6 ('03)

6/03 6 lines showing

2 clicks out

6 clicks out

position 4 from soft

11 clicks out

9 clicks out

note: set fork tube height to 10mm above flat portion of clip-on, with Pirelli Supercorsa tires, 0mm with stock Dunlop D208ZR tires

YZFR6 ('03)

12/03 6 lines showing

2 clicks out

6 clicks out

position 5 from soft

10 clicks out

10 clicks out

note: set fork tube height to 13mm showing above outer portion of clip-on with Michelin Pilot Race M2 tires, 0mm with stock Dunlop D208ZR tires

YZF-R6 ('04)

8/04 7 lines showing

1 click out

11 clicks out

position 5 of 9 2 clicks out

10 clicks out

note: set fork tube height to 10mm showing above flat portion of bar clamp with Dunlop D208 GP-A tires

YZF-R6 ('05)

4/05 6 lines showing

4 clicks out from full stiff

8 clicks out from full stiff

position 5 from full soft

4 clicks out from full stiff

10 clicks out from full stiff

note: set fork tube height flush with top of clip-ons YZF1000R

('97) 10/97 2 lines

showing 3 clicks

out 8 clicks

out position 7 of 9 7 clicks

out 10 clicks

out note:YZF1000R

('97) 12/97 2 lines

showing 3 clicks

out 8 clicks

out position 7 of 9 7 clicks

out 10 clicks

out note:

YZF-R1 ('98)

12/98 2 lines showing

2 clicks out

4 clicks out

position 5 2 clicks out

7 clicks out

note:YZF-R1 ('99)

12/99 2 lines showing

2 clicks out

4 clicks out

position 6 3 clicks out

7 clicks out

note:YZF-R1 ('00)

8/00 3 lines showing

6 clicks out

4 clicks out

position 6 of 9 9 clicks out

11 clicks out

note: with Metzeler Rennsport race tires YZF-R1 ('00)

12/00 3 lines showing

6 clicks out

4 clicks out

position 6 of 9 9 clicks out

11 clicks out

note: with Metzeler Rennsport tires fitted YZF-R1 ('01)

12/02 3 lines showing

6 clicks out

4 clicks out

position 6 of 9 8 clicks out

10 clicks out

note: set fork tube height 6mm raised from stock, with Metzeler Rennsport tires fitted

YZF-R1 ('02)

8/02 3 lines showing

12 clicks out

12 clicks out

position 3 from full soft

14 clicks out

14 clicks out

note: set fork tube height to 4mm above top triple clamp, 9mm with Michelin Pilot Race 2 tires fitted

YZF-R1 ('04)

6/04 3 lines showing

7 clicks out

9 clicks out

position 8 of 9 21 clicks out

7 clicks out

note: set fork tube height to 5mm showing above triple clamp YZF-R1 ('05)

5/05 4 lines showing

11 clicks out from full stiff

12 clicks out from full stiff

7 from full soft 26 clicks out from full stiff

9 clicks out from full stiff

note: set fork tubes flush with triple clamp YZF-R1 ('06)

6/06 4 lines showing

11 clicks out from full stiff

12 clicks out from full stiff

position 7 from full soft

full soft 9 clicks out from full stiff

note: set fork tube height to 4mm above triple clamp