Survival Handbook

AL HANDBOO

NY C L I M A T E I N A N Y S

BY J.W.

John Wisem

Everything you need to know about surviving in the great outdoors!

Open these pages to discover information that can turn anyone into a great explorer. With chapters covering essentials, strategy, food, safety, rescue, and orientation, this book will enrich your knowledge of survival. The illustrations on every page enrich the material of the book, make it easier for begin-ners, and inspire one to experience an adventure of their own!

SURVIAL HANDBOOK FO

AN Y C L I M

N Y S I T U A T I ON

BYJOHN WISEMAN

SURVIAL HANDBOOK FO

AN Y C L I M

BYJOHN WISEMAN

TABLE OF CONTENTS

AN Y C L I M

OW T O D E A

I T H D A N G

Safetypg. 26

Orientationpg. 44

Essentialspg. 4

Foodpg. 32

Rescuepg. 52

Strategypg. 14

W TO FIND FO

IN T H E O U T D O O

TO GET RESCUED

E N I N D A NG

TO READ SIGN

I N T H E O U T D O O

BASICS YOU NEED

SURVIVE O UTDO

HODS FOR SURVIVAL

I N T H E O U T D O

TABLE OF CONTENTS

AN Y C L I M

OW T O D E A

WI T H D A N G

Safetypg. 26

Orientationpg. 44

Essentialspg. 4

Foodpg. 32

Rescuepg. 52

Strategypg. 14

W TO FIND FO

IN T H E O U T D O O

TO GET RESCUED

E N I N D A NG

TO READ SIGN

I N T H E O U T D O O

BASICS YOU NEED

SURVIVE O UTDO

HODS FOR SURVIVAL

I N T H E O U T D O

OW T O D E A

I T H D A N GE

3“Nothing is so much to be feared as fear.”

ONCE ONE REALIZES, though evensubconsciously, that circumstances are such that he can not afford to have an accident, probabilities shift markedly against any mishap befalling him, and nowhere is this more apparent than under the drastic law of the wild. For what may be but a self-punishing, or attention-getting, or a responsibility-relieving misstep where help is at hand, can be fatal when one is alone. The only reasonable rule in remote regions anywhere is not to take unnecessary chances, weighing always the possible loss against the potential gain, and going about life with as wide a safety margin as possible. “Nothing is so much to be feared as fear.” Thoreau noted. But he added, “A live dog is preferable to a dead lion.”

SURVIVAL SCENARIOIf the weather or conditions in your camp change, should you revise you survival strategy?You should have a strategy for every scenario, therefore as situations change, so should your strategy. You should be flexible and be prepared to adapt.

27 SAFETYSAFETY 26

SAFTYH

OW T O D E A

I T H D A N GE

3“Nothing is so much to be feared as fear.”

ONCE ONE REALIZES, though evensubconsciously, that circumstances are such that he can not afford to have an accident, probabilities shift markedly against any mishap befalling him, and nowhere is this more apparent than under the drastic law of the wild. For what may be but a self-punishing, or attention-getting, or a responsibility-relieving misstep where help is at hand, can be fatal when one is alone. The only reasonable rule in remote regions anywhere is not to take unnecessary chances, weighing always the possible loss against the potential gain, and going about life with as wide a safety margin as possible. “Nothing is so much to be feared as fear.” Thoreau noted. But he added, “A live dog is preferable to a dead lion.”

SURVIVAL SCENARIOIf the weather or conditions in your camp change, should you revise you survival strategy?You should have a strategy for every scenario, therefore as situations change, so should your strategy. You should be flexible and be prepared to adapt.

27 SAFETYSAFETY 26

One is always finding uses for the very simple two

halfhitches. The clove hitch, which is merely a pair of half

hitches made in opposite directions, is handy for fastening a

rope to a tree trunk. The quickly tied and untied bowline,

which has raised and lowed tens of thousand of individuals

to safety, provides a loop that will neither tighten nor slip.

A practical way to tie the same type of knot by feel alone

if, as we often do, you want to picket a horse by a foreleg at

night, is first to make a loop near the end of a rope and then

to pull the standing part of the rope through it in a second

loop as shown by the drawing. Hold this second loop in one

hand and the rope end in the other. Pass the short end not

too snugly below the fetlock just about the hoof, shove the

end into the second loop, and by pulling the second loop

back through the first work the knot into position.

1. Square knot 2. Granny knot

3. Sheet bend 4. Clove hitch

5. Two halfhitches 6. Bowline

Non-slipping and non-jamming knots can be tied by feel alone. This diagram shows how to tie one of them.

There are a variety of knots that serve an equal number of purposes. But the principle purpose of most knots is similar: to bind securely while remaining easy to unfasten.

KNOTSKNOTS: Knowing how to tie a few very

simple knots will not only serve on occasion

to keep difficulties from developing but it is

not at all improbable, if one spends much

time in farther places, that such knowledge

may one day be vital.

Knots vary a little in design, depending

on their uses, but the principles remain the

same, as you can see by the accompanying

illustrations. What we want in most instances

is a knot that will not let go but which, at the

same time, can be untied in a hurry.

Basically important is the square knot

that when improperly tied becomes the

disreputable granny knot which commits the

double fault of jamming and slipping. The

slightly different sheet bend is effective for

joining two ropes of different sizes together.

29 SAFETYSAFETY 28

One is always finding uses for the very simple two

halfhitches. The clove hitch, which is merely a pair of half

hitches made in opposite directions, is handy for fastening a

rope to a tree trunk. The quickly tied and untied bowline,

which has raised and lowed tens of thousand of individuals

to safety, provides a loop that will neither tighten nor slip.

A practical way to tie the same type of knot by feel alone

if, as we often do, you want to picket a horse by a foreleg at

night, is first to make a loop near the end of a rope and then

to pull the standing part of the rope through it in a second

loop as shown by the drawing. Hold this second loop in one

hand and the rope end in the other. Pass the short end not

too snugly below the fetlock just about the hoof, shove the

end into the second loop, and by pulling the second loop

back through the first work the knot into position.

1. Square knot 2. Granny knot

3. Sheet bend 4. Clove hitch

5. Two halfhitches 6. Bowline

Non-slipping and non-jamming knots can be tied by feel alone. This diagram shows how to tie one of them.

There are a variety of knots that serve an equal number of purposes. But the principle purpose of most knots is similar: to bind securely while remaining easy to unfasten.

KNOTSKNOTS: Knowing how to tie a few very

simple knots will not only serve on occasion

to keep difficulties from developing but it is

not at all improbable, if one spends much

time in farther places, that such knowledge

may one day be vital.

Knots vary a little in design, depending

on their uses, but the principles remain the

same, as you can see by the accompanying

illustrations. What we want in most instances

is a knot that will not let go but which, at the

same time, can be untied in a hurry.

Basically important is the square knot

that when improperly tied becomes the

disreputable granny knot which commits the

double fault of jamming and slipping. The

slightly different sheet bend is effective for

joining two ropes of different sizes together.

29 SAFETYSAFETY 28

Snow blindness is a painful and watery inflamation of the eyes resulting from overexposure to certain light rays particularly when these are so diffused by water particles, frozen or otherwise, that they seem to strike the eyeball from every direction. The same symptoms result from exposure to glare from sand. Treatment lies in avoiding all sunlight as much as possible. Eyes should be bandaged in a case of severe irritation, as the closed eyelids do not afford sufficient protection. This is true even inside a tent, as some of us have collected a sun burn through canvas can appreciate. Sourdoughs occasionally use cold weak tea to bathe the eyes when they first seem to be filled with harsh, gritty soap powder. Some find cold compresses of tea leaves soothing. Here, too is where the antiseptic, anesthetic eye ointment suggested for the emergency aid kit will be really appreciated. Snow blindness can be prevented by keeping excessive light from the eyes. The most convenient way of accomplish-ing this is with sunglasses. Large lenses, well fitted not too far from the face, are advisable because of the additional protection they afford from side glare. Cheap sunglasses are usually fragile and seldom give sufficient eye protection at any time, are frequently uncom-fortable, and are prone generally to shortcomings that may injure eyesight. Plastic is not recommended, particularly when

How to: Make a Torch

Strip a piece of birch bark about a foot wide and three

feet long from a tree. Split one end of a three foot stick and

insert one short end of the birch strip, about eight inches

into the slit. Be careful to keep the rest of the birch bark away

from the blame. If you want more flame, turn the torch

downward. If it is burning too quickly, turn it upward. By

carefully feeding the remaining birch bark through this

makeshift holder, your torch will burn for fifteen to tweenty minutes and will illuminate an area of approximately twenty

feet around you.

SNOW BLINDNESS

replacement may be difficult, if only because of its susceptibil-ity to scratches and abrasions. Sunglasses that clip into place may damage regular glasses and, furthermore, do not excluse sufficient glare, except from directly in front. Eye protectors can be improvised from strips of wood or bone in which narrow slits have been cut. These have the advantage of not frosting under ordinary conditions. They have the disadvantage of severely restricting the vision. When the sun is high enough, shades such as those that can be fashioned from birchbark will help to cut down light, especially if their insides are darkened, perhaps with charcoal from the fire. Darkening about the eyes, as with soot, will also decrease reflected light.

31 SAFETYSAFETY 30

Snow blindness is a painful and watery inflamation of the eyes resulting from overexposure to certain light rays particularly when these are so diffused by water particles, frozen or otherwise, that they seem to strike the eyeball from every direction. The same symptoms result from exposure to glare from sand. Treatment lies in avoiding all sunlight as much as possible. Eyes should be bandaged in a case of severe irritation, as the closed eyelids do not afford sufficient protection. This is true even inside a tent, as some of us have collected a sun burn through canvas can appreciate. Sourdoughs occasionally use cold weak tea to bathe the eyes when they first seem to be filled with harsh, gritty soap powder. Some find cold compresses of tea leaves soothing. Here, too is where the antiseptic, anesthetic eye ointment suggested for the emergency aid kit will be really appreciated. Snow blindness can be prevented by keeping excessive light from the eyes. The most convenient way of accomplish-ing this is with sunglasses. Large lenses, well fitted not too far from the face, are advisable because of the additional protection they afford from side glare. Cheap sunglasses are usually fragile and seldom give sufficient eye protection at any time, are frequently uncom-fortable, and are prone generally to shortcomings that may injure eyesight. Plastic is not recommended, particularly when

How to: Make a Torch

Strip a piece of birch bark about a foot wide and three

feet long from a tree. Split one end of a three foot stick and

insert one short end of the birch strip, about eight inches

into the slit. Be careful to keep the rest of the birch bark away

from the blame. If you want more flame, turn the torch

downward. If it is burning too quickly, turn it upward. By

carefully feeding the remaining birch bark through this

makeshift holder, your torch will burn for fifteen to tweenty minutes and will illuminate an area of approximately twenty

feet around you.

SNOW BLINDNESS

replacement may be difficult, if only because of its susceptibil-ity to scratches and abrasions. Sunglasses that clip into place may damage regular glasses and, furthermore, do not excluse sufficient glare, except from directly in front. Eye protectors can be improvised from strips of wood or bone in which narrow slits have been cut. These have the advantage of not frosting under ordinary conditions. They have the disadvantage of severely restricting the vision. When the sun is high enough, shades such as those that can be fashioned from birchbark will help to cut down light, especially if their insides are darkened, perhaps with charcoal from the fire. Darkening about the eyes, as with soot, will also decrease reflected light.

31 SAFETYSAFETY 30

Wolves are not to be feared in the wild. Better, they should be quietly revered for their struggle to survive. They are generally timid creatures when humans intrude into their territory, and there are no confirmed reports of wolves in North America attacking humans.

WILD ANIMALSWILD ANIMALS who have been handled enough by men to lose their natural fear of human beings, as for example a fawn brought up on a bottle, may occasionally become dangerous. Males of the deer family as a whole sometimes prove truculent during rutting seasons, while later a mother may try to send an intruder away if she thinks her young are threatened. So, for example, will a bear. So will a tiny swallow. And, if someone runes, apparently frightened, the impulse of both bear and swallow is often to chase. Sometimes, too, an animal will flee at a sound or odor and, not seeing an individual, may appear to be charging him. An animal who is or believed himself cornered may try to wipe a man out of the way. As for wounded animals, even a tiny squirrel will bite and scratch.

THE WOLF is so cautious that, aided by a high order of intelligence, it will put forth every effort not to be even seen by man. Its correspondingly keen curiousity, however, will sometimes lead to close investigations especially during protective darkness, and this has stimulated some of the tales about wolves trailing individuals with the alleged motive of eventually attacking. Whenever I hear such accounts I think of the many nights in the Continental Northwest when I’ve gone to sleep wherever in the wilderness I have happened to be, many times listening as I dozed off to a wolf chorus and often as not hearing the wild music when half-awakening during the night. Except for the thrill it still never ceases to arouse, I usually have no particular emotion except the pleasure of feeling more closely attuned to the unspoiled places; not because of any daring but because I soon realized, both from observation and from what others told me, that no wolf will harm a human being.

From fairy tales such as Little Red Riding Hood, it is unfortunate the wolf has garnared such a negative reputation.

33 SAFETYSAFETY 32

Wolves are not to be feared in the wild. Better, they should be quietly revered for their struggle to survive. They are generally timid creatures when humans intrude into their territory, and there are no confirmed reports of wolves in North America attacking humans.

WILD ANIMALSWILD ANIMALS who have been handled enough by men to lose their natural fear of human beings, as for example a fawn brought up on a bottle, may occasionally become dangerous. Males of the deer family as a whole sometimes prove truculent during rutting seasons, while later a mother may try to send an intruder away if she thinks her young are threatened. So, for example, will a bear. So will a tiny swallow. And, if someone runes, apparently frightened, the impulse of both bear and swallow is often to chase. Sometimes, too, an animal will flee at a sound or odor and, not seeing an individual, may appear to be charging him. An animal who is or believed himself cornered may try to wipe a man out of the way. As for wounded animals, even a tiny squirrel will bite and scratch.

THE WOLF is so cautious that, aided by a high order of intelligence, it will put forth every effort not to be even seen by man. Its correspondingly keen curiousity, however, will sometimes lead to close investigations especially during protective darkness, and this has stimulated some of the tales about wolves trailing individuals with the alleged motive of eventually attacking. Whenever I hear such accounts I think of the many nights in the Continental Northwest when I’ve gone to sleep wherever in the wilderness I have happened to be, many times listening as I dozed off to a wolf chorus and often as not hearing the wild music when half-awakening during the night. Except for the thrill it still never ceases to arouse, I usually have no particular emotion except the pleasure of feeling more closely attuned to the unspoiled places; not because of any daring but because I soon realized, both from observation and from what others told me, that no wolf will harm a human being.

From fairy tales such as Little Red Riding Hood, it is unfortunate the wolf has garnared such a negative reputation.

33 SAFETYSAFETY 32

YOU NEED SOME UNDERSTANDING of your body’s nutritional needs and how to meet them. In most circumstances plants will be the most readily available - but you need to know which plants to avoid. Almost any animal can provide food and you must get used to eating unusual ones such as worms, insects, and even piranha fish. Despite their reputation they won’t attack unless they have no other food. If the river is low, steer clear. A wide range of effective snares and traps will catch food, while you gather plants, collect water or carry out other survival tasks. To hunt you may first have to improvise your own weapons. Learn how to do so and practise using them. Meat needs preparation to make it conve-nient to handle and safe to cook. Learn how to preserve it when there is surplus. Fish offers another source of food, so simple methods are described which require no prior angling skills.

W TO FIND FO

IN T H E W I L D E R N

4A party living off the country must know how to get full value from everything available, especially in the way of food.

33 FOODFOOD 32

YOU NEED SOME UNDERSTANDING of your body’s nutritional needs and how to meet them. In most circumstances plants will be the most readily available - but you need to know which plants to avoid. Almost any animal can provide food and you must get used to eating unusual ones such as worms, insects, and even piranha fish. Despite their reputation they won’t attack unless they have no other food. If the river is low, steer clear. A wide range of effective snares and traps will catch food, while you gather plants, collect water or carry out other survival tasks. To hunt you may first have to improvise your own weapons. Learn how to do so and practise using them. Meat needs preparation to make it conve-nient to handle and safe to cook. Learn how to preserve it when there is surplus. Fish offers another source of food, so simple methods are described which require no prior angling skills.

W TO FIND FO

IN T H E W I L D E R N

4A party living off the country must know how to get full value from everything available, especially in the way of food.

33 FOODFOOD 32

Secure the string to the bow with a round turn and

two half hitches at each end. If the wood is unsea-

soned release one end of the string whenever the

bow is not in use to relax the tension or you may

find the stave sets in shape.

A properly made bow will be more efficient and more

accurate than just blending a pliable wand - but once it

loses its spring don’t waste time with it. Make another.

WEAPONSBOW AND ARROW: Most effective of improvised weapons,

the bow and arrow is easy to make. It takes only a short time

to become proficient in its use.

For the bow a well-seasoned wood is best but you will

have to make do without. If you expect to have to stay where

you are for many months you could put wood aside to season

for future use. The tension in unseasoned wood is short-lived

so make several bows and change over to another weapon

when the one you are using loses its spring.

MAKING THE STAVE

For your bowstave select a supple wand. It should be about

120 cm (4ft) long, but match its size to the individual.

FITTING THE STRING

A rawhide string is best, cut to a width of 3mm (1/8in), but

any string, cord or thin rope will suffice. The stems of old

nettles provide tough fibres and these can be twisted

together to make a satisfactory bowstring. If the bow has a lot

of give a shorter string is likely to be needed, but when strung

the string should only be under slight tension - the main

tension is added when you pull it back to shoot.

MAKING ARROWS

Any straight wood will do for arrows, but birch is one of the

best. Make arrows about 60cm (2ft) long, and about 6mm

(1/4in) wide. Keep them straight (a piece of string tied

between two points will give you a straight edge to check

them against) and as smooth as possible. At one end make a

notch 6mm (1/4in) deep to fit the bow string.

Check that the notch in the end of each arrow is

wide enough to fit over your bowstring.

FLIGHTING ARROWS

To increase accuracy arrows should be flighted.

Feathers make the best flights but other materi-

als can be used: paper, light cloth or even leaves

trimmed to shape.

(a) Split feathers, starting from the top, down

center of quill.

(b) Leave 20mm (3/4in) of quill at each end of

feather to tie to arrow.

(c) Tie three flights equally spaced around shaft.

Fashion the stave so that is 5cm (2in) wide at the center,

tapering to 1.5cm (5/8in) at the ends. Notch the ends (a) to

take the bowstring about 1.25cm (1/2in) from the ends.

Remove the bark if you choose. When the bow has been

whittles into shape rub it all over with oil or animal fat.

35 FOODFOOD 34

Secure the string to the bow with a round turn and

two half hitches at each end. If the wood is unsea-

soned release one end of the string whenever the

bow is not in use to relax the tension or you may

find the stave sets in shape.

A properly made bow will be more efficient and more

accurate than just blending a pliable wand - but once it

loses its spring don’t waste time with it. Make another.

WEAPONSBOW AND ARROW: Most effective of improvised weapons,

the bow and arrow is easy to make. It takes only a short time

to become proficient in its use.

For the bow a well-seasoned wood is best but you will

have to make do without. If you expect to have to stay where

you are for many months you could put wood aside to season

for future use. The tension in unseasoned wood is short-lived

so make several bows and change over to another weapon

when the one you are using loses its spring.

MAKING THE STAVE

For your bowstave select a supple wand. It should be about

120 cm (4ft) long, but match its size to the individual.

FITTING THE STRING

A rawhide string is best, cut to a width of 3mm (1/8in), but

any string, cord or thin rope will suffice. The stems of old

nettles provide tough fibres and these can be twisted

together to make a satisfactory bowstring. If the bow has a lot

of give a shorter string is likely to be needed, but when strung

the string should only be under slight tension - the main

tension is added when you pull it back to shoot.

MAKING ARROWS

Any straight wood will do for arrows, but birch is one of the

best. Make arrows about 60cm (2ft) long, and about 6mm

(1/4in) wide. Keep them straight (a piece of string tied

between two points will give you a straight edge to check

them against) and as smooth as possible. At one end make a

notch 6mm (1/4in) deep to fit the bow string.

Check that the notch in the end of each arrow is

wide enough to fit over your bowstring.

FLIGHTING ARROWS

To increase accuracy arrows should be flighted.

Feathers make the best flights but other materi-

als can be used: paper, light cloth or even leaves

trimmed to shape.

(a) Split feathers, starting from the top, down

center of quill.

(b) Leave 20mm (3/4in) of quill at each end of

feather to tie to arrow.

(c) Tie three flights equally spaced around shaft.

Fashion the stave so that is 5cm (2in) wide at the center,

tapering to 1.5cm (5/8in) at the ends. Notch the ends (a) to

take the bowstring about 1.25cm (1/2in) from the ends.

Remove the bark if you choose. When the bow has been

whittles into shape rub it all over with oil or animal fat.

35 FOODFOOD 34

Wounded and trapped animals can be dangerous. Before approaching closely check whether an animal is dead. Use a spear or tie your knife to a long stick and stab a largish enabling you to move closer and club it on the head. If you have a companion, it is easier to carry a large animal by tying it firmly to a bough, which can be carried on your shoulders, but you should not take it all the way into camp, where it would attract flies and scavenging animals. Even large animals can be dragged to a more convenient location if turned upon their backs. If the animal has horns cut off its head or they will make this difficult.

It is preferable to butcher all game on the trap line. It will attract predators and carrion eaters that in turn may become trapped. Use the entrails to rebait traps. Only carry back to camp what you can manage without exertion. In cool climates cache the rest for collection later. In territories with vultures and other large carrion eaters it will be almost impossible to protect it, so carry what you can. What you leave behind is unlikely to keep in a hot climate. Blood is a valuable food, containing vital minerals. Carry a vessel for taking it back to camp. Keep it covered, cool and out of the way of flies.

HANDLING THE KILLNo part of a carcass should be wasted. Careful preparation will give you the maximum food value and make full use of the parts you cannot eat. Set about it in four stages:

PREPARING THE KILL

Place the pole along the belly and use a clove hitch around each pair of legs. Lash the animal to the pole and finish with a clove hitch around the pole. If the animal has horns, tie these up out of the way.

BLEEDING, which is essential if the meat is to keep, and without which the taste is very strong.SKINNING, so that the hide or fur can be used for shelter and clothing. (Pigs are not skinned because they have a useful layer of fat under the skin. Birds are plucked but not usually skinned.) GUTTING, to remove the gut and recover offal.JOINTING, to produce suitable cuts for cooking by different methods.

HIDING THE KILLSuspend a carcase from a bough, too high for scavengers on the ground and out of reach from the branch. A cache in the crook of a tree will keep meat away from ground predators but will still be accessible to felines and other climbing predators.

37 FOODFOOD 36

Wounded and trapped animals can be dangerous. Before approaching closely check whether an animal is dead. Use a spear or tie your knife to a long stick and stab a largish enabling you to move closer and club it on the head. If you have a companion, it is easier to carry a large animal by tying it firmly to a bough, which can be carried on your shoulders, but you should not take it all the way into camp, where it would attract flies and scavenging animals. Even large animals can be dragged to a more convenient location if turned upon their backs. If the animal has horns cut off its head or they will make this difficult.

It is preferable to butcher all game on the trap line. It will attract predators and carrion eaters that in turn may become trapped. Use the entrails to rebait traps. Only carry back to camp what you can manage without exertion. In cool climates cache the rest for collection later. In territories with vultures and other large carrion eaters it will be almost impossible to protect it, so carry what you can. What you leave behind is unlikely to keep in a hot climate. Blood is a valuable food, containing vital minerals. Carry a vessel for taking it back to camp. Keep it covered, cool and out of the way of flies.

HANDLING THE KILLNo part of a carcass should be wasted. Careful preparation will give you the maximum food value and make full use of the parts you cannot eat. Set about it in four stages:

PREPARING THE KILL

Place the pole along the belly and use a clove hitch around each pair of legs. Lash the animal to the pole and finish with a clove hitch around the pole. If the animal has horns, tie these up out of the way.

BLEEDING, which is essential if the meat is to keep, and without which the taste is very strong.SKINNING, so that the hide or fur can be used for shelter and clothing. (Pigs are not skinned because they have a useful layer of fat under the skin. Birds are plucked but not usually skinned.) GUTTING, to remove the gut and recover offal.JOINTING, to produce suitable cuts for cooking by different methods.

HIDING THE KILLSuspend a carcase from a bough, too high for scavengers on the ground and out of reach from the branch. A cache in the crook of a tree will keep meat away from ground predators but will still be accessible to felines and other climbing predators.

37 FOODFOOD 36

FISHINGFISH are a valuable food source, containing protein, vitamins and fats. All freshwater fish are edible but some tropical ones can be dangerous: be wary of electric eels, freshwater stingrays and the piranha of South American rivers. It takes skill to catch fish by conventional angling methods but, by considering their feeding habits and following the simple methods given here, you can be successful.

WHERE TO FISHFish choose the places in the water where they are most comfortable and where they most easily find their prey. This will be affected by the temperature of the day. If it is hot and the water is low, fish in shaded water and where there are deep pools. In a lake fish retreat to the coolness of deep water in hot weather. In cold weather choose a shallow place where the sun warms the water. Lake fish will tend to keep to the edges which are warmer. If the river is in flood, fish where the water is slack, on the outside of a bend, for example, or in a small tributary feeding the mainstream if its flow is different, quite possible for the flood may not be due to local rainfall. Fish like to shelter under banks and below rocks and submerged logs.

WHEN TO FISHAs a general rule leave lines out overnight and check them just before first light. Some fish feed at night during a full moon. If a storm is imminent, fish before it breaks. Fishing is poor in a river after heavy rain.

INDICATIONS OF FISH FEEDINGSigns that fish are feeding, and therefore likely to take a bait, are when they jump out of the water, or you see frequent clear ring ripples breaking out where fish are taking flies on the surface. Where lots of little fish are darting about they may well be being pursued by a larger predatory fish.

ANGLINGFishing with a hook and line is the popular way of fishing (though others are usually more effective) and they are part of your survival kit. Hooks can also be improvised from wire, pins, bones, wood and even thorns. Large hooks will catch large fish but small ones will catch both large and small. Near the end of the line you will probably need to attach another short length with a weight to take the hook down and stop the line being carried along the surface of the water, especially if fishing deep. If is is a long line you also need another length with a float which will be pulled down when you get a bite. A rod is not essential (you can fish effectively with a handline) but makes it easier to land fish and to cast away from the bank. You can improvise hooks from all kinds of materials. Here (from left to right) a pin, a thorn, a bunch of thorns, nails, bone and wood have been used.

IMAGE REFRACTIONWater refracts light so that the fish sees things above the water at a slightly different angle - and can probably see more on the bank than you think. It is always better to fish from a sitting or kneeling position than standing up so that you are less likely to be in vision. Keep back from the edge. Always try to keep your shadow off the water you are fishing.

39 FOODFOOD 38

FISHINGFISH are a valuable food source, containing protein, vitamins and fats. All freshwater fish are edible but some tropical ones can be dangerous: be wary of electric eels, freshwater stingrays and the piranha of South American rivers. It takes skill to catch fish by conventional angling methods but, by considering their feeding habits and following the simple methods given here, you can be successful.

WHERE TO FISHFish choose the places in the water where they are most comfortable and where they most easily find their prey. This will be affected by the temperature of the day. If it is hot and the water is low, fish in shaded water and where there are deep pools. In a lake fish retreat to the coolness of deep water in hot weather. In cold weather choose a shallow place where the sun warms the water. Lake fish will tend to keep to the edges which are warmer. If the river is in flood, fish where the water is slack, on the outside of a bend, for example, or in a small tributary feeding the mainstream if its flow is different, quite possible for the flood may not be due to local rainfall. Fish like to shelter under banks and below rocks and submerged logs.

WHEN TO FISHAs a general rule leave lines out overnight and check them just before first light. Some fish feed at night during a full moon. If a storm is imminent, fish before it breaks. Fishing is poor in a river after heavy rain.

INDICATIONS OF FISH FEEDINGSigns that fish are feeding, and therefore likely to take a bait, are when they jump out of the water, or you see frequent clear ring ripples breaking out where fish are taking flies on the surface. Where lots of little fish are darting about they may well be being pursued by a larger predatory fish.

ANGLINGFishing with a hook and line is the popular way of fishing (though others are usually more effective) and they are part of your survival kit. Hooks can also be improvised from wire, pins, bones, wood and even thorns. Large hooks will catch large fish but small ones will catch both large and small. Near the end of the line you will probably need to attach another short length with a weight to take the hook down and stop the line being carried along the surface of the water, especially if fishing deep. If is is a long line you also need another length with a float which will be pulled down when you get a bite. A rod is not essential (you can fish effectively with a handline) but makes it easier to land fish and to cast away from the bank. You can improvise hooks from all kinds of materials. Here (from left to right) a pin, a thorn, a bunch of thorns, nails, bone and wood have been used.

IMAGE REFRACTIONWater refracts light so that the fish sees things above the water at a slightly different angle - and can probably see more on the bank than you think. It is always better to fish from a sitting or kneeling position than standing up so that you are less likely to be in vision. Keep back from the edge. Always try to keep your shadow off the water you are fishing.

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1.2.3.4.5.6.7.8.9.

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MatchesCompassAdhesive BandagesSnare WireWatchMapMagnifying GlassKnifeWhistleMedical KitFish Hooks and LineNeedles and Thread

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1.2.3.4.5.6.7.8.9.

10.11.12.

MatchesCompassAdhesive BandagesSnare WireWatchMapMagnifying GlassKnifeWhistleMedical KitFish Hooks and LineNeedles and Thread

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VIVAL HANDBO

Y C L I M A T E I N A N Y SI T

BY J.W.

John Wisem

Everything you need to know about surviving in the great outdoors!

Open these pages to discover information that can turn anyone into a great explorer. With chapters covering essentials, strategy, food, safety, rescue, and orientation, this book will enrich your knowledge of survival. The illustrations on every page enrich the material of the book, make it easier for begin-ners, and inspire one to experience an adventure of their own!

Survival Handbook

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Transcript of Survival Handbook