SUPERCHARGER INSTALL ATION MANUAL - TREperformance

Installation Manual: HEMI SC System_A1R20 Last Updated: January 30th, 2018

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SUPERCHARGER INSTALLATION MANUAL

2006-2017 CHRYSLER/ DODGE 5.7/ 6.1/ 6.4L ENGINES

WHIPPLE SUPERCHARGERS 3292 NORTH WEBER AVE

FRESNO, CA 93722 TEL 559.442.1261 FAX 559.442.4153

www.whipplesuperchargers.com A color PDF of this manual is available, email tech@w hipplesuperchargers.com for a copy

PREMIUM FUEL ONLY (91 OCTANE OR BETTER ALWAYS) RON+MON/ 2

CALIFORNIA AIR RESCOURCE BOARD EXECUTIVE ORDER #D231-46 COMPETITION BASED PRODUCT MAY BE USED SOLELY ON VEHICLES USED IN SANCTIONED COMPETITION WHICH

MAY NEVER BE USED UPON A PUBLIC ROAD OR HIGHWAY



INTRODUCTION Before beginning installation, we encourage you to read this manual thoroughly before you begin any portion of the installation: 1. A quick parts check to make certain your kit is complete (see shipper parts list in packing paperwork). If you discover

shipping damage or shortage, please call our office immediately. 2. Review our limited warranty with care.

3. 2015 and up model vehicles require unlocked PCMs for PCM unlocking. 4. Always wear eye protection during installation. 5. Avoid spills, if one occurs, clean up and dispose of towels properly. 6. Never work on a hot engine. 7. Obey all traffic laws when testing the vehicle. 8. Whipple calibrations are for stock engines, changes such as long tubes, cams and big throttle bodies are

not supported. Changes such as these will require custom tuning. 9. Having the latest OEM PCM and TCM calibration is highly recommended to eliminate potential OEM issues in calibration. 10. COMPETITION BASED PRODUCT MAY BE USED SOLELY ON VEHICLES USED IN SANCTIONED COMPETITION WHICH

MAY NEVER BE USED UPON A PUBLIC ROAD OR HIGHWAY, UNLESS PERMITTED BY SPECIFIC REGULATORY EXEMPTION (VISIT THE “EMISSIONS” PAGE AT HTTP://WWW.SEMASAN.COM/EMISSIONS FOR STATE BY STATE DETAILS.

11. COMPETITION BASED PRODUCT IS LEGAL IN CALIFORNIA ONLY FOR RACING VEHICLES WHICH MAY NEVER BE USED, OR REGISTERED OR LICENSED FOR USE, UPON A HIGHWAY.

12. IT IS THE RESPONSIBILITY OF THE INSTALLER AND/OR USER OF THIS PRODUCT TO ENSURE THAT IT IS USED IN COMPLIANCE WITH ALL APPLICABLE LAWS AND REGULATIONS.

RECOMMENDED TOOLS AND SUPPLIES Extra Components NGK 5107 (LZTR7AIX) with .028” gap (included with complete kits), distilled water (1.5gal), approved coolant (1.5gal), 4”, 8” and 12” zip-ties. Tools Torque wrench (1/4”, 3/8”, ½”) Safety glasses, metric wrench set, assorted drill set, electric or air drill, ¼”, 3/8”, ½” assorted metric socket set, 3/8” assorted metric allen socket set, 3/8” assorted torx socket set, 8mm hex allen wrench, flat head and phillips screw drivers, pinch clamp tool, 8mm nut driver and drain pan (for coolant). Tie Straps These will be useful for securing the wiring harness away from the installation area as directed in the instruction manual. They are inexpensive and will be very handy during installation. Sealants Blue Loctite™#243 or equivalent, Red Loctite™ #271 or equivalent, Green Loctite™ #648 or equivalent. All bolts that need Loctite™ are marked with: Loctite™ (#243 blue) threads, Loctite™ (#271 red) threads, Loctite™ (#648 green). Thread sealant such as pipe Teflon must be used on all pipe threads. Chemicals and lubricants You will need some cleaner/degreaser such as carb cleaner. Motor oil and clear automotive-type grease will be useful as a lubricant and should be readily available during installation. You’ll be required to fill your intercooler system with approx. 1 gallon of distilled water and Dodge/Chrysler/Jeep approved engine coolant. This is not supplied in the system, you can find the coolant at any local auto parts store. NEVER USE TAP WATER, as it can corrode and create poor performance. Clean Shop Towels Use these to keep the installation area clean.



PRE-INSTALLATION CHECKLIST Before installing your Whipple Supercharger Kit, complete the following checklist. 1. Verify Condition of Vehicle: Before the supercharger kit is installed, ensure the engine runs smoothly and that the

factory malfunction indicator light (MIL) is off. Only install the supercharger kit if the engine runs smoothly and the MIL is off.

2. !! CAUTION !! This product is intended for use only on STOCK, UNMODIFIED, WELL-MAINTAINED engines. Installation on a worn-out or modified engine is not recommended without factory computer and fuel system modifications. Custom engine configurations could require custom tuning and other supporting modifications.

3. !! CAUTION !! Use only 91 octane fuel or higher. If fuel of less than 91-octane is present in the vehicle fuel tank, the tank must be completely drained and refilled with 91 or higher octane to 1/8th of a tank.

4. Verify Fuel System: Supercharger systems should only be installed on vehicles that have new or clean fuel filters. Never

operate at wide open throttle when fuel level is below ¼ tank. Fuel flow cannot be maintained if the pump runs dry.

5. Assess Cleanliness of Installation Area: Make sure your work area and the under-hood area are free from debris. This

supercharger is a high-quality, close-tolerance compressor and must not be subjected to contamination by dirt or any type of foreign material. If necessary, vacuum around engine to remove any foreign material.

6. !! CAUTION !! DO NOT remove the protective seal on the supercharger prior to installation. Foreign material entering the supercharger will automatically void all warranties.

7. Identify Supercharger Kit Components: Before beginning installation, identify all the components of your Whipple

Supercharger Kit and ensure all items are present and undamaged.

8. !! CAUTION !! Do not attempt to start the engine before adding the supplied supercharger oil to the supercharger!

SAFETY PRECAUTIONS

CAREFULLY READ THE IMPORTANT SAFETY PRECAUTIONS AND WARNINGS BEFORE PROCEEDING WITH THE INSTALLATION! Appropriate disassembly, assembly methods and procedures are essential to ensure the personal safety of the individual performing the kit installation. Improper installation due to the failure to correctly follow these instructions could cause personally injury or death. Read each step of the installation manual carefully before starting the installation.

• Always wear safety glasses for eye protection. • Place the ignition switch in the off position. • Always apply the parking brake when working on vehicle. • Block the front and rear tire surfaces to prevent unexpected vehicle movement. • Operate the engine only in well-ventilated areas to avoid exposure to carbon monoxide. • Do not smoke or use flammable items near or around fuel system. • Use chemicals and cleaners only in well-ventilated areas. • Batteries can produce explosive hydrogen gas which can cause personal injury. Do not allow flames, sparks or

flammable sources to come near the battery. • Keep hands and any other objects away from the radiator fan blades. • Keep yourself and your clothing away from moving parts when the engine is running. • Do not wear loose clothing or jewelry that can be caught in rotating or moving parts.



COMMON ABBREVIATIONS

ABBREVIATION DESCRIPTION DTC Diagnostic Trouble Code

ECT Engine Coolant Temperature EGR Exhaust Gas Recirculation ETC Electronic Throttle Control EVAP Evaporative emissions system FHSCS Flat Head Socket Cap Screw IAT Inlet Air Temperature

IC Intercooler ID Internal Diameter IN/LB Inch pounds LB/FT Foot pounds MAF Mass Air Flow MAP Manifold Absolute Pressure

MY Model Year OBD On Board Diagnostics OD Outside Diameter PCV Positive Crankcase Ventilation PSI Pound per Square Inch SC Supercharger

SHCS Socket Head Cap Screw TPS Throttle Pressure Sensor TRQ Torque

Symbol Key

Throughout this installation guide you will see the following symbols used:

NOTE Used to indicate tips and information to aid in installation, maintenance, or use of the supercharger.

!! CAUTION !! Used to indicate precautions that must be taken to avoid damage to the supercharger and associated components.

WARNING!! Used to indicate precautions that must be taken to avoid bodily injury as well as damage to the supercharger and associated components.



Make sure you have done the following:

1. □ Verified the Condition of the Vehicle.

2. □ Verified the fuel octane is 91 (RON + MON)/2 or higher. Do not mix low and high octane!

3. □ Verified that the fuel system is clean.

4. □ Assessed the cleanliness of the installation area.

5. □ Identified the supercharger kit components.

6. □ Read and understand the instruction manual.

NOTE **NOTICE: Installation of Whipple Supercharger products signifies that you have read this document and have agreed to the terms stated within. It’s the purchaser’s responsibility to follow all installation instruction guidelines and safety procedures supplied with the product as it’s received by the purchaser to determine the compatibility of the product with the vehicle or the device the purchaser intends to install the product on. Whipple Superchargers assumes no responsibility for damages occurring from accident, misuse, abuse, improper installation, improper operation, lack of reasonable care or all previously stated reasons resulting from incompatibility with other manufacturer’s products. There are no warranties expressed or implied for engine failure or damage to the vehicle in any way, loss of use or inconvenience or labor reimbursement. This includes merchantability and fitness.

NEVER SMOKE DURING THE INSTALLATION OF THE SC, THERE WILL BE FLAMMABLE FUMES AND LIQUID AROUND THE VEHICLE

ILLUSTRATED INSTALLATION GUIDE It is strongly recommended that you read through this guide before you begin installing the Whipple Supercharger.

WARNING!! Batteries normally produce explosive gases. Therefore, do not allow flames, sparks or lighted substances to come near the battery. When charging or working near a battery, always shield your face and protect your eyes. Always provide ventilation. Failure to follow these instructions may result in personal injury. WARNING!! Keep out of the reach of children. Batteries contain sulfuric acid. Avoid contact with skin, eyes or clothing. Also, shield your eyes when working near the battery to protect against possible splashing of the acid solution. In case of acid contact with the skin or eyes, flush immediately with water for a minimum of 15 minutes and get prompt medical attention. If acid is swallowed, call a physician immediately. Failure to follow these instructions may result in personal injury.



1. (Complete kits only) Using the supplied flash tool, connect to the vehicle’s OBDII port and follow the on-screen instructions to read factory calibration strategy code (SCT only). If using a Diablo or HP Tuners, upload the file and email it to Whipple for your modified version. Email [email protected] to get your modified version of the calibration. Note: Make sure your battery is fully charged before installing, if not, install a battery charger to maintain 14volts. Modified engines such as long tubes, camshafts or oversized throttle bodies are not supported. Calibrations take 24-48 hours to build, make sure to do this before installation. In rare cases, a PCM strategy may not be supported.

2. Using an air hose, blow off any loose dirt or debris from engine compartment. If really dirty, then steam clean the

engine compartment before proceeding to the next step.

3. Slowly remove the factory gas cap to relieve any excess pressure.

4. Open the trunk and remove the lift up panel to gain access to the battery.

5. With a 10mm wrench disconnect the (-) negative battery cable. Make sure the cable is far enough away from the battery that it does not accidentally touch the battery and make connection during the installation.



6. Using the factory mounting points, jack the vehicle up and install 4 jack stands at an ideal height of 18”. 7. Remove the factory hood liner by removing the push pins. This will not be used.

8. (Challenger) Remove the front fascia:

• Remove the left and right splash shields. • Remove the belly pan. • Remove the mounting fasteners that secure the front fascia assembly (9) to the inside of the front fender. • Remove the push-pin retainers (10) that secure the front fascia assembly to the upper radiator support. • Carefully pull the left and front side of the front fascia out of the fender mounted fascia mounting brackets. • Carefully pull the front fascia assembly forward to disengage the push-pin retainer from the slot in each side

of the fascia and disconnect the fog lamp wire harness connectors if equipped.

9. (300) Remove the front fascia.

10. (Charger) Remove the front fascia.



11. With a cool engine, drain the coolant into a clean drain pan for reuse later. Remove the radiator cap to vent the system. (Be careful not to remove the radiator cap if the engine is still hot). The drain spigot is located on the passenger, bottom side of radiator. Loosen spigot and let it drain into pan.

12. Remove the factory coil covers by carefully pulling up. Store these for later use. 13. Disconnect the factory air temp sensor located in the factory air intake tube by squeezing the electrical connector

and pulling from sensor.

14. Disconnect the electronic throttle electrical connector by pulling the locking tab back and then squeezing the

connector to release.



15. Remove the factory air inlet tube hose clamps using an 8mm nut driver. Lift air tube away from engine. Note: keep the black hose clamp from the filter box to the air tube for later use.

16. Remove the factory air box by using an 8mm nut driver on the (1) air box mounting bolt.

17. Remove the rubber breather line from the back of the factory air box by pulling back. Lift the airbox straight up.



18. Remove the factory steel air inlet tube support bracket from the engine using a 16mm deep socket and ratchet.

19. Remove the factory bolt that the steel support inlet was bolted too using a 15mm deep well socket and ratchet.

20. Remove the throttle body from the engine by removing the (4) mounting bolts, use an 8mm socket and ratchet.

21. (MY11+) Disconnect the factory coolant temp sensor by pulling the locking tab back and then squeezing the




22. Remove the factory EVAP tube from the factory intake manifold and EVAP canister. Both the 5.7 and 6.1/6.4 have locking tabs that you must remove when pulling line off.

23. Disconnect the factory MAP sensor on the back of the intake manifold by pulling the locking tab back and then

squeezing the connector to release. There is a supporting tab connecting the wire harness to the intake manifold, remove this so the intake manifold can be removed with ease.

24. Remove the factory fuel supply line by squeezing the connector and pulling back (5.7 on driver side, 6.1/6.4

passenger side). It’s a good idea to wrap a shop rag around this before you pull to catch any fuel that may drip.

25. Disconnect the fuel injector connectors (8) by pulling the locking tab back and then squeezing the connector to release.



26. Remove the factory brake booster line from the back of the intake manifold and the brake booster. It’s easier to remove from the brake booster and then snaking through when you’re removing the intake manifold. Remove the factory 90deg plastic adapter from the brake booster hose end for later use. Note: 11-14 models must disconnect electrical connector at the brake booster by squeezing the connector to release.

27. Remove the factory (10) intake manifold bolts using an 8mm socket, 8” extension and ratchet.

28. Carefully lift the intake manifold from the engine, be cautious that nothing falls into the open ports.

29. Use a clean shop rag and a cleaner such as acetone or carb cleaner to clean the cylinder head to intake manifold surface. Apply duct tape or masking tape to cover the ports until you’re ready for the intake manifold installation.

30. Using a 3/8” ratchet or breaker bar, release the tension from the spring loaded tensioner by rotating clockwise.

Remove the 6-rib belt from the engine.



31. Using a pinch clamp removal tool, remove both clamps that hold the upper radiator hose. Remove the upper radiator hose from the engine. Save hose and clamps for later use.

32. Remove the thermostat housing using a 13mm socket and ratchet.

33. Remove the thermostat from the engine.

34. Disconnect the (2) coil capacitor connectors from the back of the cylinder heads and heater tubes by squeezing the




35. Remove the mounting bolt for the driver side heater hose using a 10mm socket and ratchet. Save this bolt for later use.

36. Use a pinch clamp removal tool to remove the (2) heater tube clamps from the back of the engine.

37. Remove the rear coil capacitors from the cylinder heads (10mm socket) to remove the heater tubes from the studs

(1 nut per stud). Remove stud to remove heater tube support brackets. Reinstall the stud in the factory location, torque to 67 in/lbs. Reinstall the capacitors using the 8mm socket and factory nut, torque to 67 in/lbs.



38. (6.1L/6.4L) Remove the (2) additional bolts securing the factory heater tubes to the block using a 10mm socket and ratchet.

39. Reconnect the electrical connectors to the coil capacitors by pressing down on connector until it clicks and locks into place.

40. Disconnect the fan electrical connector by squeezing the electrical connector to release.

41. Remove the edge clip that secures the fan wiring harness to the fan by using a small flat head screw driver. This will be reused.



42. Remove the (2) electric fan mounting bolts (driver and passenger side) using an 8mm socket and ratchet. Save these bolts, they will be reused.

43. Remove the upper radiator mounts (2) using a 10mm socket and ratchet. Remove the lower mount bolts (4) using

a 13mm socket/8” extension and ratchet. Carefully lower the radiator assembly to remove the electric fan assembly. If the vehicle is on jack stands, it will come out easily from the bottom.

44. Using a ½” impact gun and a 21mm socket, remove the factory damper pulley center bolt.

45. Carefully blow off any debris from the damper. It’s a good idea to place some rags, blanket or tape over the radiator

so debris does not get stuck inside the fins.



46. Install the supplied 14mm stud into the crank pinning adapter about halfway up the threads. Install stud and crank pin adapter into damper until snug (apply light amount of anti-seize to threads). Use a 1” wrench or a crescent wrench to tighten so it does not move while drilling.

47. Use the supplied ¼” drill bit (it has a stop at roughly 2.875” from drill bit tip), drill 2 holes into the crankshaft thru

the (2) holes in the pin adapter. Blow off debris when done drilling. Remove the pin adapter using an adjustable wrench.



48. Install the supplied ¼” dowel pins with a generous amount of green Loctite #648. Use a hammer and punch or drift pin to tap in so they are flush.

49. Apply light amount of anti-seize to threads of the factory damper pulley. Use a 21mm socket and torque to 129

ft/lbs. **DO NOT LET BALANCER ROTATE WHILE TORQUING.

50. Reinstall the electric fan by sliding up through the bottom. Secure into factory location using the factory (2) bolts

using an 8mm socket and ratchet.

51. Connect the factory electric fan connector back to the electric fan. Reinstall the edge clip to secure the wire harness to the fan assembly.



52. Reinstall the factory radiator by first mounting the lower support (2 bolts per support) using a 13mm socket, 8” extension and ratchet.

53. Reinstall the upper radiator support brackets by sliding over the top of the radiator and securing with the factory

bolts (1 per support). Using a 10mm socket and ratchet. 54. (Challenger only) Remove the driver side front fascia bumper support by removing the factory (2) mounting bolts

using a 10mm socket and ratchet. Set aside for later use.

55. Remove the foam ring from the driver side inner fender airbox inlet.

56. For the intercooler reservoir sub-assembly, you will need the following items: I. 1 – Aluminum reservoir (tank)

II. 3 – Rubber grommets III. 3 – 10mm spacers IV. 1 – T-bolt clamp V. 1 – 1/8” x 1” x 6” rubber strip

VI. 1 – Tank – Pump Hose Assembly, Part # HEMI-1303 VII. 1 – Tank Vent Hose Assembly, Part # HEMI-1305

VIII. 1 – Filler Neck – Tank Hose Assembly, Part # HEMI-1302



57. Press three grommets into the three mounting brackets shown. Ensure the grommets are fully seated by checking both sides of the brackets.

58. Press three spacers into the grommets until flush. These are a tight fit so consider using a screwdriver handle or such between your thumb and the spacer while pressing.

59. Set the reservoir on its flat side with the pump bracket facing toward you as shown.



60. Locate the T-nut clamp, remove the nut using an 11mm wrench, and thread the T-nut clamp, screw first, through the reservoir pump bracket as shown.

61. Make certain you pass the clamp through both sides of the bracket until the screw is pointing back toward the right as shown.

62. Wrap the rubber strip around the intercooler pump motor with the gap toward the outlet port side of the pump as shown.



63. With the reservoir pump bracket facing up, lay the intercooler pump in the saddle of the bracket as shown. The pump motor should be in direct contact with the bracket and the rubber strip should be nearly touching either side.

64. Rotate the pump so the outlet port is parallel with the bottom of the reservoir and position axially so the split-line between the pump motor and pump head aligns with the edge of the bracket as shown.

65. Install the nut. You may need to slightly compress the clamp, using channel lock pliers, to start the threads.



66. Tighten the nut until one to two full threads protrude from the end of the nut. DO NOT OVER-TIGHTEN AS YOU WILL DAMAGE THE PUMP!

67. With the pump installed correctly, the reservoir should now appear as shown.

68. Locate the Tank – Pump Hose Assembly, Part # HEMI-1303, and position the reservoir as shown.



69. Install the spring clamps at least two inches from the hose ends as shown.

70. Remove the pump inlet cap and install the pump inlet end of the hose first, making sure the hose is fully seated.

71. Install the reservoir outlet end of the hose, again making sure the hose is fully seated. Move the reservoir end spring clamp behind the hose barb (not on top of them or you will get leaks), approximately ¼” from the end of the hose. Position the clamp as shown for future in-vehicle access, should the need arise.



72. Move the pump end spring clamp behind the hose barb (not on top of them or you will get leaks), approximately ¼” from the end of the hose. Position the clamp as shown for future in-vehicle access, should the need arise.

73. Locate the Tank Vent Hose Assembly, Part # HEMI-1305; and the Filler Neck – Tank Hose Assembly, Part # HEMI-1302.

74. Install two supplied spring clamps on the 3/8” vent hose at least two inches from the hose ends as shown:



75. Install the 3/8” ID vent hose onto the 3/8” OD reservoir hose barb, with the natural curve tending toward the pump head as shown. Ensure the hose is fully seated. Move the reservoir end spring clamp behind the hose barb (not on top of them or you will get leaks), nearly flush with the hose end.

76. Install two supplied spring clamps on the ¾” filler neck to tank hose at least two inches from the hose ends as shown:

77. Install the ¾” ID hose onto the ¾” OD hose barb, with the natural curve tending toward the pump, ensuring the hose is fully seated, and move the reservoir end spring clamp behind the hose barb (not on top of them or you will get leaks), nearly flush with the hose end .



78. With the hoses installed correctly, the reservoir should now appear as shown.

79. Locate the Hemi LTR Shipping Bolt Bag (Part # HEMI-1104); the intercooler reservoir subassembly just completed; and the bumper bracket, and one long M6 screw previously removed (Challenger only). Place near the driver side front of the car as shown.

80. Locate (2 of 3) 8mm x 25mm socket head cap screws and washers. Install (1) washer on each screw and place in the two holes shown.



81. With the reservoir directly below the air-box inlet cutout, route the 3/8” and ¾” hoses ahead of the cutout but behind the headlight bracket.

82. Lift the reservoir up and slide the forward-facing bracket into the gap at the back of the bumper.



83. Loosely install an M8 flat washer and M8 nyloc nut on each of the M8 socket head cap screws from below.

84. Align the forward most reservoir bracket with the outermost hole in the bumper as shown.

85. Place an M8 flat washer, centered, on top of the grommet.



86. Slide the final M8 x 25 mm socket head cap screw from above, between the bumper top and second plate, and drop into the hole through the grommet as shown.

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87. Loosely install an M8 flat washer and nyloc nut from below.



88. Using a 6mm hex bit and 13mm wrench, torque all three fasteners to 80 in-lb. Do not over tighten or you will crush the spacers.

89. (Challenger only) Install the fascia bracket previously removed using (1) of the (2) M6 screws previously removed.

90. Install the supplied (2) 6mm x 16mm hex head bolts along with (3) 6mm large diameter washers. Secure the top bolt using the supplied 6mm nyloc nut (LTR shipping bolt bag #HEMI-1104). Tighten bottom bolt into factory threaded hole. Torque all to 140 in/lbs.



91. Locate the unused ground stud on the driver side inner fender between the shock tower and coolant reservoir as shown. Remove the factory nut using a 10mm socket and ratchet. Save for later use.

92. Locate the supplied intercooler filler tee, mounting bracket, and two 6mm flange button head cap screws. Loosely

assemble the filler tee to the mount using the two 6mm flange button head cap screws.

93. Attach the filler tee assembly to the stud and install the nut.

94. Attach the filler tee assembly to the factory stud, utilize the factory nut and torque to 150 in/lbs.



95. Final align the filler tee and tighten the 6mm button head cap screws to 80 in/lbs using a 4mm hex bit.

96. Install the ¾” hose from the reservoir onto the filler tee, ensuring it is fully seated. Secure with the spring clamp approximately ¼” from the hose end Se

97. Install the 3/8” vent hose from the reservoir onto the filler tee, ensuring it is fully seated. Move the spring clamp behind the hose barb (tangs down to prevent interfering with filler cap) nearly flush with the hose end.



98. Use one tie wrap to bundle the 3/8”, and ¾” hoses with the aluminum AC line as shown.

99. (MY2011 and up/only with stock airbox) Locate the factory airbox and using a hacksaw, cut a notch to clear the M8 socket head cap screw used to mount the reservoir. Specifically, at the bottom front of the airbox, centered about the second rib, notch out the material between adjacent ribs from the bottom up to the intersection of the rib with the sidewall as shown.



100. (MY2011 and up/only with stock airbox) Test fit the airbox to ensure the reservoir screw head clears and the intercooler lines don’t interfere or kink. Remove lid and continue to next step.

101. When satisfied with the final routing, add a second tie wrap as shown to hold everything secure.

102. Remove the (4) inner bumper bolts on the inside of the frame rail. 2 from the driver side, 2 from passenger side.



103. (MY11+ 6.4) Remove the factory power-steering heat exchanger by prying from the factory push clips. Relocate this unit down lower to clear the SC heat exchanger. Test fit SC heat exchanger, then use the new supplied mounts to install lower.

104. Locate four 8mm flange hex head bolts from the Hemi LTR Shipping Bolt Bag (Part # HEMI-1104) and install only part way (about 6-8 threads showing for ease of bracket installation).

105. Locate the passenger side and driver side heat exchanger brackets.



106. Install the passenger side and driver side heat exchanger brackets over the previously installed 8mm bolts, secure with the supplied (2) 8mm flange nuts to just hold the bracket in place. The brackets will remain loose until all heat exchanger hardware is installed.

107. Tighten all four flange bolts only (not the bracket side nuts) to 27 ft-lbs using a 13mm wrench.

108. Install the four grommets and the aluminum spuds into the low temperature heat exchanger.

109. Install two spring clamps on the hose assembly at least 2” away from the hose ends.



110. Install the heat exchanger end of the hose assembly (“S” curve) onto the ¾” OD heat exchanger hose barb as shown.

111. Move the spring clamp behind the hose barb so the edge of the clamp is nearly flush with the hose end. Position the spring clamp tangs down for future in-vehicle access should the need arise.

112. Locate four 8mm flat head socket cap screws from the Hemi LTR Shipping Bolt Bag.

113. With the attached hose assembly facing down and toward the driver side, lower the heat exchanger down between the front bumper and the air conditioning condenser just ahead of the brackets.



114. Loosely install the upper two 8mm flat head socket cap screws on each side.

115. Adjust the brackets as necessary to align the lower holes and install the final two 8mm flat head socket cap screws. Once centered, using a 5mm allen, torque the 8mm bolts to 18 ft/lbs.

116. Return to the four M8 flange head nuts on the heat exchanger bracket and, using a 13mm wrench, torque to 18 ft-lb. Alternatively, you may use a 13mm box/open wrench to tighten the nut snug plus ¼ turn.



117. Remove the cap from the intercooler pump outlet port and install the remaining end of the Pump – H/E Hose Assembly. Ensure it is fully seated.

118. Move the spring clamp behind the hose barb approximately ¼” away from the hose end.



119. Locate the H/E – I/C Hose Assembly (Part# HEMI-1300). Starting at the back of the engine, route the hose (elbow end first), along the existing wiring harness, under the relay box, under the ABS system and between the radiator and front cross-member.

120. Install the spring clamp to the end of the hose. Install the hose on the 5/8” hose barb at the top, passenger side, of the low temperature heat exchanger. Secure hose end with the spring clamp.



121. Secure the IC rubber line with (2) tie wraps as shown:

122. Locate the I/C – Filler Neck Hose Assembly (Part# HEMI-1301). Install a spring clamp at least 2” from the ¾” ID hose end. Install ¾” ID hose end onto the filler tee as shown and secure with spring clamp and route towards the back of the engine.

123. Remove wiring mount from 8mm hole on the passenger side head.



124. Locate the Hemi Manifold Shipping Bolt Bag (Part# HEMI-1102), and two heater tubes with installed o-rings.

125. Starting with the passenger side heater tube (single 90°), lubricate the o-ring with some automotive type grease.

126. Install just behind the thermostat housing. Take care not to cut the o-ring when installing.

127. Utilize one of the supplied 8mm x 16mm flanged hex bolt to secure heater tube. Torque to 18 ft/lbs using a 13mm socket and wrench.



128. Apply light amount of automotive type grease to “S” tube rubber oring. Install the “S” bend tube just above the water pump drive pulley. Be careful not to cut the o-ring when installing.

129. Install the supplied 8mm x 16mm flanged hex head bolt to secure “S” bend heater tube. Torque to 18 ft/lbs using a 13mm socket and torque wrench.

130. Locate the P/S Heater Hose Assembly (Part # HEMI-1307), and the D/S Heater Hose Assembly (Part# HEMI-1308).

131. Locate the two factory heater hoses at the rear of the engine (shown without spring clamps installed), that were previously removed from the factory heater tubes.



132. Remove the braided sleeve from the passenger side hose end and cut approximately 1” away from where the hose begins to straighten [note: you will need this straight section to mend the hose should you ever return the vehicle to its stock configuration].

133. Cut the driver side factory hose at the peak of the arch as shown.

134. Should you ever need to return the vehicle to its stock configuration, you will need to retain the cut hose pieces shown.



135. Install the 5/8” to ¾” hose menders with the ¾” end in the cut factory hoses.

136. Install the larger spring clamps onto the factory hoses behind the hose barbs nearly flush with the hose ends.

137. Install two spring clamps at least 2” from the ends of the passenger side heater hose (P/S Heater Hose).

138. Install the straight end of the passenger side heater hose onto the 5/8” connecter and secure with spring clamp.



139. Install the elbow end of the passenger side heater hose onto the passenger side heater tube and secure end with spring clamp.

140. The passenger side heater hose should lie along the inner edge of the passenger side valve cover as shown.

141. Install one tie wrap near the rear of the passenger side head to ensure the hose does not interfere with later supercharger assembly.



142. Install two spring clamps at least 2” from the ends of the driver side heater hose (D/S Heater Hose).

143. Install the straight end of the driver side heater hose onto the 5/8” connecter and secure with spring clamp.

144. Install the elbow end of the driver side heater hose onto the driver side heater tube and secure end with spring clamp.

145. With the driver side heater hose lying along the inner edge of the driver side valve cover, install one tie wrap near the rear of the driver side head to ensure the hose does not interfere with later supercharger assembly.



146. (Complete kits) Remove the (8) coil electrical connectors. Remove the coils using a 10mm socket and ratchet (2 bolts per coil). Lift the coil out and use a 5/8” spark plug socket and ratchet to remove the stock spark plugs (16). Apply light amount of anti-seize to the new spark plugs. IMPORTANT! Gap plugs to .028”.

147. Install light amount of automotive type grease to the high-flow thermostat rubber oring. Install the high-flow

thermostat to factory location. 148. (6.1L Engines) Install the supplied thermostat housing to the factory location, facing forward. Secure thermostat

housing with the supplied (2) 8mm x 25mm socket head cap screw. Torque to 17 ft/lbs.

149. (5.7LG2/6.4L Engines). Install the supplied thermostat housing to the factory location, facing back towards the

engine. Secure thermostat housing with the supplied (2) 8mm x 25mm SHCS. Torque to 17 ft/lbs.

150. (6.1L Engines) Shorten the factory radiator approximately 2” on the radiator side of hose (since the hose is being

moved forward, this will stop it from kinking). Use a long pair of shears to sever hose properly. Install hose onto radiator using factory hose clamp. Install other end to new thermostat housing using factory radiator hose and factory clamp.



151. (6.4L) Using the supplied coupler 1 ¾” stainless tee and 1 3/4” black heat shrink clamp, install one end on to factory radiator and the other to the factory radiator hose. Install upper radiator hose to the thermostat housing using the factory clamp. Position the shrink clamps so they are centered over the coupler barb. Use a heat gun to shrink these to the coupler. Connect the factory thermostat housing vent line to bottom fitting of the stainless tee. Secure with factory clamp.

152. (5.7LG2) Using the supplied coupler 1 1/2” stainless coupler and 1 ½” black heat shrink clamp, install one end on to

factory radiator and the other to the factory radiator. Install upper radiator hose to the thermostat housing using the factory clamp. Position the shrink clamps so they are centered over the coupler barb. Use a heat gun to shrink these to the coupler.

153. For shipping, the manifold assembly is bolted together with (4) 6mm bolts. Use a 5mm allen socket and ratchet to

remove the (4) 6mm bolts (save for later use). Break the compressor assembly apart, gently setting the compressor assembly down. Do not set on anything sharp.



154. Remove the factory air temp sensor from the air intake tube by using a small flat head screw driver and lightly lift locking tab. Rotate the sensor counter clockwise.

155. Install the factory air temp sensor into the supplied rubber grommet above the #1 cylinder. Apply generous amount of grease to air temp sensor and press into rubber grommet. Make sure the sensor locking tab is facing the driver side, before pressing in, it’s good to double check that you can always get to the electrical connector unlocking tab.

156. Modify the supplied 2-bar MAP sensor (PN# 1-05033224AB) by carefully removing the factory tang. It’s best to use a box cutter/razor or a Dremel tool.



157. Apply generous amount of grease to the supplied 2-BAR MAP sensor oring. Install the supplied MAP sensor to the back of the lower intake manifold by lightly pressing the oring barb through the .590” passage on the back of the lower intake manifold. Use the supplied 5mm x 16mm SHCS (2) bolts to secure sensor to lower manifold. Torque to 50 in/lbs.

158. Remove the tape you previously installed on the cylinder head to intake manifold surface. Clean off any excess glue

using acetone or carb cleaner. 159. Install the supplied 1/8” ID rubber line to the 1/8” OD barb fitting located on the back of the lower intake manifold.

Temporarily route this line down, behind the engine on the passenger side. This will be finished later during the fuel pump booster installation. If you are not using the supplied fuel pump booster, this line will not be used and the 1/8” barbed fitting needs to be removed and replaced with a 1/8” plug, with light amount of pipe sealant.

160. Set the supplied intake gaskets onto the cylinder head to intake manifold surface, lining up ports and bolt holes.



161. Install the supplied lower intake manifold to the engine. Be careful to lineup each port, as well as the intake gaskets underneath. Once aligned, secure the intake manifold with the (10) supplied 6mm x 22mm socket head cap screw with a light amount of blue Loctite to the threads. Note that the heater tube is close to the intake manifold, if they are touching with the intake manifold lined up to the ports, use a pry bar to carefully bend away from the intake manifold. Torque to 9 ft/lbs. in the following pattern:

1

2

3

4

5

6

78

910

162. Apply light amount of automotive grease to PCV/Breather oring passage. Install the supplied PCV/Breather passage orings (2) to the lower intake manifold. Make sure to rub the grease all over the oring so it does not move and cannot rip during upper manifold installation.



163. Apply generous amount of automotive grease to lower manifold to upper manifold oring groove. Install the supplied .103” x 68.784” oring to the lower intake manifold. Work the oring in by to the groove until its flat around the entire surface. Make sure to rub the grease all over the oring so it does not move and cannot rip during upper manifold installation.

164. Carefully place the upper intake manifold assembly to the lower intake manifold. Be careful to not slide the assembly much, as you could grab an oring. Use the previously installed (for shipping) (4) 6mm x 25mm socket head cap screws, along with the supplied (4 of 6) 6mm x 25mm socket head cap screws to secure the outer portion of the upper intake manifold to the lower intake manifold assembly. Carefully install the (2 of 6) 6mm x 25mm socket head cap screws through the 2 passages at the bypass area (NOTE: Apply light amount of Blue Loctite #243 to these threads), failure to torque these bolts properly may lead to them going through the engine. It’s best to put the bolt on the end of an allen socket and use your fingers through the bypass passage to guide the bolts into the mounting holes. Install the supplied (5) 6mm x 60mm socket head cap screws to the 5 center mounting holes. Install all hand tight using a 5mm allen socket.

6mm x 25mm SHCS 6mm x 60mm SHCS



165. Using a 5mm allen socket and a torque wrench, torque the 6mm upper manifold bolts to 9 ft/lbs using the following torque sequence:

12

3 4

56

7

89

1011

1213

14 15

16 17

166. Use light amount of automotive type grease to fuel injector orings. Install all (8) fuel injectors into intake manifold. 167. Install the fuel rails to the intake manifold using the (4) 6mm x 20mm SHCS. Torque to 9 ft/lb using a 5mm allen

socket. Loctite™ (#243 blue) threads. 168. Apply grease to 6AN plug oring. Install the 6AN plug to the passenger side fuel rail top open port using a ¼” allen

socket.



169. Apply grease to the 6an fuel feed fitting oring. Install the stainless steel 6AN to quick connect fitting to driver side fuel rail top port using a ¾” wrench.

170. Apply grease to the (4) fuel inlet/outlet fitting orings. Install the (4) 6AN to quick connect stainless steel fittings to

each inlet/outlet of the fuel rails using a ¾” wrench.

171. Secure the (2) -10 90deg intercooler fittings to the -10AN male fittings. Face these slightly facing back.



172. Connect the factory feed fuel line to the passenger side fuel rail. Press on until it clicks and locks into place. Give it a pull up to verify that it is locked.

173. Install the supplied crossover fuel line to the back of the fuel rails. Press on until it clicks and locks into place. Give

both a pull back to verify that it’s locked.



174. Install the supplied crossover fuel line to the front of the fuel rails. Press on until it clicks and locks into place. Give both a pull back to verify that its locked. Use the supplied #10 adel clamp to the fuel line and use the factory bolt (held the heater tube in place) and a 10mm socket. Torque to 10 ft/lbs.

175. Using the supplied fuel injector adapters (when applicable), install the (1) with the 3” exposed wires on the #1

cylinder in order for it to clear the oil fill boss. 176. Connect all (8) factory injector connectors until they click and lock in place. 177. Apply generous amount of automotive grease to the upper intake manifold to supercharger adapter oring groove.

Install the supplied .103” x 45.473” oring to the upper intake manifold. Work the oring in by to the groove until its flat around the entire surface. Make sure to rub the grease all over the oring so it does not move and cannot rip during upper manifold installation.

178. Verify that the bypass passage oring is still in place, if it’s moved, put back into the groove. Apply generous amount

of automotive type grease to entire exposed oring to ensure this stays in place during supercharger installation.



179. The supercharger must be filled with oil prior to use. This supercharger is shipped without oil inside. The oil is in a separate bottle supplied with your kit. The bottle is pre-filled to the exact amount required (8 fl/oz.).

!! CAUTION !! Severe damage to the compressor will occur if you overfill the supercharger rear gear case.

Make sure the SC is sitting on a flat surface.

Remove -6AN allen plug (1/4” allen wrench) and fill SC with WHIPPLE SC OIL ONLY!! Fill to the middle of the sight glass. Tip from side to side then with the SC flat, check oil again, add as necessary.

NOTE: The W175FF compressor takes a minimum of 7.5 fl/oz. and a maximum of 8 fl/oz.

Reinstall -6AN allen plug.

NOTE: After running the SC, the oil level will lower due to oil filling the bearings. The proper level while not running should be between the bottom of the sight glass and the middle and will vary when running and not running.

Change SC oil every 100,000 miles and only use WHIPPLE SC OIL ONLY!!

OIL FILL PLUG

MAXIMUM OIL LEVEL

MINIMUM OIL LEVELOIL LEVEL OPERATING RANGE


180. Carefully set the compressor assembly to the upper intake manifold. Make sure not to rip the bypass passage oring

or the SC to upper manifold oring.



181. Install the supplied (10) 6mm x 22mm SHCS into the supercharger discharge plate to upper manifold (hand tight). Using a 5mm long allen socket (ball head on passenger side) and torque wrench, torque to 106 in/lbs in the following pattern. (2015+) Install the supplied EVAP solenoid bracket and factory EVAP solenoid to #6 bolt on driver side (see below diagram).

12

3 4

5 6

7 8

9 10

182. (2006-2010 5.7/6.1, 2011 and up 5.7L) Install the supplied 6AN viton orings to the (6) supplied 6AN to quick

connect fittings. Apply light amount of grease to orings. Install (1) of the supplied (1) 7.89mm quick connect fitting into top hole of SC inlet on driver side. Install the supplied (1) 7.89mm quick connect fitting to passenger side 6AN hole. Install the supplied (2) 9.89mm quick connect fittings to the supercharger inlet bottom two holes. Install the supplied (2) 9.89mm to the oil catch can.

183. (2011 and up 6.4L) Install the supplied 6AN viton orings to the (5) supplied 6AN to quick connect fittings. Apply

light amount of grease to orings. Install (1) of the supplied (1) 7.89mm quick connect fitting into top hole of SC inlet on driver side. Install the supplied (2) 9.89mm quick connect fittings to the supercharger inlet bottom two holes. Install the supplied (2) 9.89mm to the oil catch can.



184. (2006-2010) Route the pre-made bypass actuator ¼” ID line to the quick connect fitting located on the passenger side of supercharger inlet. The bypass has a .017” orifice/restrictor to control actuation speed, do not remove unless doing custom tuning. This allows rapid boost changes.

185. (2011 and up 6.4L) Route the pre-made bypass actuator ¼” ID line to the ¼” nipple on the bypass actuator to

the ¼” to 1/8” NPT barb fitting pre-installed on driver side of intake manifold.

186. (2011 and up 5.7L) Route the pre-made bypass actuator ¼” ID line to the quick connect fitting previously installed on passenger side of inlet casting.

187. (6.4L) Install the new spring-loaded tensioner by removing the stock unit and installing the new one using the factory

fastener.

188. Remove the (3) front water pump hex head bolts using a 13mm socket and ratchet in preparation for the idler plate installation.

189. Install the idler pulley bracket to the passenger side of engine. Utilize the following diagrams to show the assembly

process. Install the idler pulleys after the plate is mounted to the engine and leave loose until the belt installation. Utilize a 6mm allen wrench, 8mm allen socket and a 17mm wrench. Torque the 8mm bolts to 17 ft/lbs and the 10mm bolts to 22 ft/lbs. NOTE: Pulleys 3.0” or larger, always use the lower threaded bolt hole shown with arrow. Pulleys smaller than 3.0” can use the upper threaded hole for better belt wrap and belt selection.



190. Install the supercharger pulley to pulley hub. Using a 5mm allen, torque to 130 in/lbs. • 06-09 5.7L (4) 6mm x 12mm SHCS. • 06-10 6.1L (4) 6mm x 12mm SHCS. • 10-And Up 5.7/6.4L (4) 6mm x 25mm SHCS (with pulley spacer).



191. Install the supplied 6-rib belt to the engine using the following belt diagram (while all adjustable idlers are loose).

192. Use a 3/8” breaker bar or 3/8” ratchet a minimum of 12” long. Remove the tension on the spring-loaded tensioner, opening to full max position. Adjust the 6-rib adjustable grooved idler pulley to its max position (towards passenger side). Torque the ½” 1 ¾” SHCS to 55 ft/lbs.



193. (09+ 5.7L/11+ 6.4L) Using the supplied 8-rib smooth idler #36101, replace the factory 6-rib idler pulley just below the thermostat housing. Utilize the factory hardware.

194. Install the throttle body to the supercharger inlet using the throttle body adapter. Install the inlet gasket to the inlet,

throttle body adapter, followed by the throttle body gasket and then the throttle body. Use the supplied (4) 6mm x 50mm SHCS. Using a 5mm allen and torque wrench, torque to 65 in/lbs.



195. (Factory air box systems) Remove air filter top by removing the (3) factory bolts using an 8mm nut driver. Remove the factory air filter and replace with the supplied high flow filter.

196. (Factory air box systems) Install the supplied high flow air filter element and reassemble the factory air box with the new high flow filter by using the factory bolts (8mm nut driver).

197. (5.7L/6.4L) Reconnect the factory throttle body electrical connector. Once it pushes in place, press the locking tab

down until it clicks in place. Once connected, use a zip-tie to secure the wire away from the belt system.

198. (6.1L) Install the supplied throttle body 6-wire extension harness to the factory throttle body connector. Route the

other end to the throttle body 6-way connector and reconnect. Once it pushes in place, press the locking tab down until it clicks in place.



199. Connect the supplied 3/8” ID rubber hose with the 3/8” quick connect fitting to the driver side 3/8” aluminum fitting on the SC inlet. Press until it locks in place. Route the line down, just in front of the valve cover and back towards the brake booster. Use some zip-ties to secure this line.

200. (2006-2010) Connect the previously installed 3/8” rubber line from the SC inlet to the factory plastic barbed elbow. 201. (2011 and up) Connect the previously installed 3/8” rubber line from the SC inlet to the factory brake booster sensor.

Install on the barbed fitting. Reinstall factory brake booster sensor back into brake booster. Reconnect the factory 3-way electrical connector on brake booster sensor. Press until it locks in place.



202. Install the supplied 5/16” ID rubber hose with the 90deg quick connect fitting to the driver side of the SC inlet. Press until it clicks and locks in place. Route the 5/16” ID rubber hose down below the brake booster line you previously routed, along the valve cover under the ignition coils, around the back of the engine to the EVAP canister barbed fitting. Use a few zip-ties to secure this line.

203. (6.1L) Install the stock PCV valve to the new location on the Whipple lower intake manifold. 204. Install the supplied 3/8” ID 90deg rubber boot to the PCV valve and face towards the front of the engine. 205. (Complete kits) Install the supplied 3/8” ID 90deg quick connect fitting from the PCV rubber hose around the rear

of the supercharger and to the rear fitting of the oil separator. Route the supplied 3/8” quick connect hose with dual 90deg fittings from the front fitting on oil separator to the center quick connect fitting located on driver side of supercharger inlet. **Note: Oil catch can must be removed from engine to refill engine oil. Competition kits route the PCV hose around the SC and connect to center quick connect fitting at SC inlet.

SC INLET

PCV



206. (Competition kits). Reuse factory oil fill cap in oil fill neck. 207. Install the supplied 3.75” to 4.25” silicone hose to the throttle body (note aftermarket TB’s may require a different

reducer hose). Secure with the factory hose clamp you previously removed from the factory air box or the supplied #56 clamp.

208. Install the factory air box to the reducer hose and back to the factory location (reinstall factory foam seal). Secure

box lid using the factory bolt you previously removed using an 8mm nut driver.

209. Secure the silicone reducer hose to the factory air box using the factory black hose clamp you previously removed

or use the supplied #64 clamp.



210. Remove the factory rubber hose from the stock intake manifold that connects the oil fill tube to the air box lid.

211. (2006-2010) Install the factory rubber hose from the factory oil fill tube to the new barbed fitting on the Whipple

upper intake manifold barbed fitting. Connect the other end to the factory air box lid.

212. (2011 and up) Use the factory hose on factory airbox. Install factory hose over supplied ½” hose that’s pressed on the vent tube.

213. Reinstall the factory coil covers to the factory location. The driver side needs to be clearance at the oil fill neck.

Carefully grind this area until it fits.



214. Familiarize yourself with the supplied MSD Fuel Pump Booster and the supplied wiring. 5.7L, 6.1L and 6.4L engines will mount this in the trunk except 2011 and up 5.7/6.4L Charger and 300 applications will mount the booster in the engine compartment.

B+

R

O

MOPAR MSD Booster Pigtail wiring

GROUND

POWER

FuelPump relay

To Fuel Pump

GRAY

Blue but splice

To remove or bypass booster just disconnect 1 way connectors and reconnect orange to gray

215. (Trunk style) Using the supplied Velcro, install the MSD fuel pump booster to the back of the battery as shown.

216. (Trunk style) Disconnect the B+ cable from the trunk mounted relay box. Release the trunk mounted fuse and relay box from mounting clips and turn over.



217. (Trunk style) Remove the bottom of the trunk mounted fuse/relay box by pulling back on the tabs.

218. (Trunk/style) Find the factory blue/orange fuel pump power wire and cut this wire (leave at least 3” of wire from

relay to ease of work).

219. (Trunk/style) Splice in pigtails as shown in MSD Booster diagram.



220. (Trunk/style) Reconnect B+ to relay box stack MSD B+ on top and bolt down.

221. (Trunk/style) Remove the factory chassis ground and stack the MSD ground to this eyelet and retighten.



222. (Trunk/style) Route the supplied 1/8” ID rubber hose that you previously installed on the back of the lower intake manifold, down the passenger side of the chassis (STAY AWAY FROM THE EXHAUST). Route along factory lines, securing with zip-ties.



223. (Trunk/Style) Using a 5/8” drill bit, drill a small hole for the 1/8” ID fuel pump booster reference line. Install the supplied rubber grommet to the drilled hole. Route the 1/8” ID rubber boost reference line through the rubber grommet.

224. (Trunk/Style) Using the supplied Velcro, install the MSD fuel pump booster to the back of the battery as shown.

225. (Engine compartment mount) Mount the pump booster bracket in the passenger side inner wheel well. 226. (Engine compartment mount) Mount the pump booster to bracket using the supplied fasteners. 227. Connect the routed 1/8” ID boost reference line to the fuel pump booster barbed 1/8” OD fitting. Secure hose to

fitting with a zip-tie. 228. Release tab and lift up fuse center under hood for the intercooler relay harness installation.



229. (Trunk style) Mount intercooler relay and fuse holder on bracket under fuse center.

230. (Trunk style) Tap gray wire from relay harness into pink wire with green stripe under fuse box.

231. (Trunk style) Bolt intercooler black ground wire to chassis ground on body next to fuse center it may be in different

place depending on year or model.



232. Install the intercooler relay power B+ eyelet to the factory power stud on fuse center.

233. Route the intercooler 2-way connector harness across top of radiator support and secure with zip ties.

234. Route the intercooler 2-way connector down from the radiator support to the intercooler electric pump below front bumper and connect to the electric intercooler pump. Press until it locks in place.



235. Mock up the front fascia to the front of the vehicle. Note that you may need to slightly notch the front grille area. There should be .25” clearance to the intercooler exchanger.

236. (Challenger) Reinstall the front fascia assembly:

• Place the front fascia assembly into position and connect the fog lamp wire harness connectors if equipped. • Push the left and front side of the fascia into the fender mounted fascia mounting brackets. • Install the mounting fasteners that secures the front fascia assembly (9) to the inside of the front fender. • Install the belly pan. • Install the left and right front splash shields.

237. (2011 and up Challengers) Modify the driver side inner fender to front bumper plastic insert to fit around the IC

reservoir. 238. (2011 and up Challengers) Reinstall the factory air temp sensor to the factory location using the stock push pin.

239. (2006-2010 300) The hood needs to be notched to clear the SC, follow the supplement instructions for this and the

carbon fiber insert if purchased.



240. (Challengers) As every vehicle varies, in some cases, the SC pulley clearance to the hood may be an issue. It’s good to use a piece of clay on top of the SC pulley, then close the hood and verify clearance. In some cases, a small notch may need to be made. If made, use some semi-gloss or flat black paint to touch up inner hood.

241. Install the plastic jackshaft cover by using the supplied (4) rubber grommets into the jackshaft (4) pre-drilled holes.

Install the stainless bushing into the rubber grommets. Secure shaft cover with the supplied (4) 5mm x 12mm BHCS, use a 3mm allen socket.

242. Refill the Engine coolant. Verify that your coolant drain is closed, and use a filter/strainer to pour the recycled

coolant/water mixture that you drained from the radiator. If necessary top off with a Dodge/Chrysler/Jeep approved engine coolant. Whipple also recommends running 2 bottles of Redline Water Wetter which can be found at most automotive parts stores. WARNING!! DO NOT USE TAP WATER OR ANY NON DODGE/CHRYSLER/JEEP APPROVED ENGINE COOLANT, THIS WILL CAUSE CORRISION IN THE SYSTEM. Start engine to completely fill system.

243. Attach the negative cable to the battery and tighten using a 10mm wrench.

244. Using a Lisle 24680 Spill-Free Funnel, or equivalent, secure the appropriate filler neck adapter to the filler neck/surge

tank. 245. Attach the funnel and fill with a 50/50 mixture of coolant and distilled water until the funnel is half full. Whipple

recommends Zerex G-05 or any DCX approved coolant. The Whipple IC system is compatible with all common types of antifreeze, it is customer preference. Note: Whipple also recommends 1 bottle of Red Line Water Wetter or equivalent. Never use tap water, this will cause corrosion and destroy the system.

246. Turn the ignition to the ON position and listen for the pumps electric motor to cycle. Air bubbles will begin to purge

from the system as the coolant level drops. Add coolant to the funnel as necessary. Note: Do NOT let the coolant level in the funnel run empty as this may introduce air into the system.

247. To build more pressure in the intercooler system, try squeezing the intercooler hoses while the pump is cycling.

Building pressure in the system will help purge the trapped air from the intercooler system. It can also help to lift the filler neck 4”-8” higher than its mount to help purge the air.

The electric water pump used on the Whipple SC system has a built-in micro-processor that will vary pump cycle speed when air bubbles are present in the system. If a significant amount of air is trapped in the system, the pump may cycle at a lower speed and pulsations are likely to occur resulting in poor cooling performance.

For the best result, it is highly recommended to use a Radiator Cooling System Vacuum Purge and Refill Kit to properly evacuate the air from the intercooler system before filling the 50/50 mixture of coolant and distilled water. If one is not available, the following procedure will be adequate.



248. Cycle the ignition OFF and wait a few seconds for the pump to stop.

249. Cycle the ignition to the ON position again and repeat until the sound of the electric pump is continuous without any pulsation. NOTE: During water pump start-up, it is normal for a slight pulsation to occur. Once the pump has reached its maximum cycle speed, no pulsations should be present.

250. Periodically inspect the water pump flow after a few drive cycles and re-fill the intercooler system as necessary.

251. Several drive cycles may be required to completely purge the air from the intercooler system. During a drive cycle,

the intercooler system will build up pressure as the supercharger temperature increases. Any residual air trapped in the system will gradually bleed out of the surge tank when the cap is removed. Use a rag when removing in case there is excess pressure. Do not go WOT or dyno test until the system is properly relieved of air. Note: The pump will cavitate when there’s air, this is a sign that it needs to be bled more. If the pump revs and shuts off, this means it does not have water and it has an air pocket at the inlet of the pump. Use a vacuum system to pull the air out.

252. Start the engine and let idle. The engine should idle normally between 600-700 rpm at normal operating temps.

Inspect for leaks. You will need to remove the factory plug from the water pump housing to relieve air pockets.

253. After running for 2 minutes turn off engine and inspect the level in the ENGINE radiator and the Intercooler tank.

With the key in the ON position engine off, inspect the coolant in the intercooler tank, the coolant should flow in the tank. If it does NOT the coolant circuit has an air pocket trapped in it. To remove the air pocket insert an air blow nozzle in the top of intercooler tank and wrap a clean cloth around the end of the nozzle and around the top of the tank and slightly pressurize the tank, this will force the trapped air out of the system. Add coolant to fill the system.

254. Before driving, make SURE that you have 91 [(RON+MON)/2] or higher-octane fuel in the system. NOT ½ tank of

87 and ½ tank of 91, ALL 91 or better fuel in the system. DO NOT USE ANY OCTANE BOOSTER IN THE FUEL. 255. DO NOT use ANY aftermarket air filter box or duct with the supplied Whipple calibration. The Whipple calibration is

designed to work with the Whipple cold air intake system or the factory air box with high flow filter only. Changes to the air inlet system could cause potential issues with the calibration and performance. Aftermarket throttle bodies are not supported with the Whipple calibrations.

WARNING: Always avoid removing the filler neck cap when the system is hot. The hot coolant is under pressure and may spray out causing burns.



256. Clean the inner area of the gas door with acetone. Attach the “91 OCTANE OR HIGHER” decal to the gas tank fill cap or door.

257. If you would like to install a boost gauge, there is an extra 1/8” NPT port located on the driver side of the intake manifold.

258. Test drive vehicle for the first few miles under normal driving conditions, obey all traffic laws. Listen for any noises,

vibrations, engine misfire, detonation/pinging or anything that does not seem normal. The supercharger does have a slight whining noise under boost conditions, which is normal.

259. Re-check the radiator and intercooler reservoir coolant level regularly over the first 1,000 miles, top off level as needed.

260. Re-check SC oil level regularly over the first 1,000 miles, level may drop very slightly as it fills the bearings and cavities.

261. After the initial test drive, go through the belt tensioner process again. During your second test drive, gradually work

the vehicle to wide open throttle runs. Listen for any engine detonation (pinging). If engine detonation is present, let up on the throttle immediately. Most detonation causes are low octane gasoline still in the tank or the wrong/old spark plugs.

262. If you have questions about your vehicles performance, please check with your installation facility or call Whipple

Superchargers at 559.442.1261, Monday through Friday from 8am to 5:00pm, Pacific Time or email questions to [email protected]. Whipple does not offer custom tuning for modified engines.

WARNING!! Verify the bypass actuator is working properly. To monitor, look at the bypass arm when the motor is

not running. Start engine and verify that the actuator arm has opened. This arm will be extended when the engine is

above 1” of vacuum (boost) and will be open when there is more than 1” of engine vacuum.



MAINTENANCE AND SERVICE Be sure to follow the maintenance and service recommendations below to optimize the life and performance of your Whipple-supercharged vehicle. For best performance and continued reliability, it is essential to adhere to the following guidelines:

1. When changing engine oil, remove the catch can from intake manifold for proper filling. 2. Use only premium grade fuel (91-octane or higher). (RON+MON)/2 is the US spec on fuel. 3. Always listen for any sign of spark knock or pinging. If present, discontinue use immediately and consult your

vehicle owner’s manual. 4. Do not operate the vehicle at large throttle opening if the MIL lamp is on steadily. This indicates an electronic

engine control malfunction: reduce throttle opening and consult your vehicle dealer. 5. Check the supercharger oil level at every engine oil change. Add Whipple SC oil to the supercharger if required.

Do not overfill the supercharger rear gear case. 6. Change the oil in the supercharger every 100,000 miles. Use Whipple SC approved oil only.


7. Do not operate the vehicle at large throttle opening if the MIL lamp is on steadily. This indicates an electronic

engine control malfunction: reduce throttle opening and consult your vehicle dealer. 8. Inspect and clean your high-flow air filter element every 7,500 miles. 9. Inspect and replace spark plugs every 10,000 miles. Only run specified plugs. 10. Follow your factory service intervals for oil changes and other typical maintenance items. 11. Check the supercharger/accessory drive belt. Adjust or replace as required

!! CAUTION !! Any modification to your vehicle’s new computer program may cause serious damage to the engine and/or drive train.

IMPORTANT INFORMATION BOOST LEVELS All Whipple kits are shipped with boost levels that Whipple feels achieves maximum power while maintaining reliability with stock engines (@ sea level). Additional pulleys are available for lower and higher boost levels, the supplied calibration (complete kits) for the original pulley or larger (lower boost). Higher boost levels must run higher octane levels such as 100LL, 104, 110, 116, etc. or be custom tuned. EXHAUST Cat-back exhaust systems help reduce heat and minimize exhaust back pressure. They do not affect the calibration and are always a good idea for added safety and performance. Long tube headers and/or high flow cats require custom calibrations and are not supported by Whipple. While they make more power, they greatly affect the tuning and therefore this should be custom tuned by a reputable tuner. FUEL SYSTEM The Whipple fuel system (FLOW) needs no additional changes for power levels supplied by Whipple. Any smaller pulley changes, custom calibration, custom engines may require fuel system changes. AIR FUEL RATIO Air fuel ratio is the measurement of the amount of air and fuel being burned during the combustion process. In order for you to monitor the air fuel ratio, you must have an 18mm bung welded into the exhaust. The ideal placement is pre catalytic converter as the catalytic converter can give false readings. While in some cases, it may not be possible to measure air fuel



post-cat, one must verify that the post-cat reading is stoich at idle and should technically show .20 to .50 leaner air fuel ratio during WOT operation. There are currently many different air fuel-monitoring systems and accuracy is not always guaranteed. Wide band oxygen sensors vary over time and deteriorate with uses of leaded gasoline and temperature. There are currently quite a few meters on the market that do the job pretty well, some good low cost a/f meter at www.aemelectronics.com, www.ngk.com, www.innovatemotorsports.com, www.fuelairspark.com, www.autometer.com, www.daytonasensors.com. The Whipple supplied calibration has a conservative tune where WOT should be around 11.50-11.75:1 considering 91 octane fuel with 10% Ethanol. If the air fuel is showing between 11.0-11.4:1, this is ok and only a fraction richer then target. Showing leaner than 11.8:1 with 10% Ethanol 91 octane fuel can be dangerous depending on the spark curve. 93 octane allows slightly more safety range but should still never show leaner than 12:1. Whipple has found that 12.6:1 is approx. the best a/f for power but is very dangerous on pump gas. Be very careful, too lean of an air fuel ratio increase cylinder temps and increase the chance of detonation, which is detrimental to engine life. FUEL OCTANE Never run a fuel octane that is below 91octane, (RON+MON)/2 and never run fuel with more volume than 10% Ethanol. It is recommended, when available, to run 92-94 octane. Never mix mid-level (below 91) with 91+, this is very dangerous and can cause severe engine damage. Do not attempt to increase octane ratings with generic octane boosters, these are very hard on spark plugs and many brands do very little to the actual octane rating (1 point is .1 octane). For emergency situations and racing applications, the best octane booster found to date is Boostane (#1 choice). Some other brands are hard on spark plugs so constant use will require increased spark plug maintenance. The PCM constantly adapts, if it senses better fuel, it will increase power accordingly. ENGINE COOLANT Whipple recommends running a 50/50 mix of distilled water and coolant. The engine temp should run between 175-185deg F under normal driving conditions. The fans are turned on at an earlier temp to promote cooler operating temps. We also recommend 1-2 bottles of Red Line Water Wetter coolant additive. This will reduce air bubble insulation, which increases overall engine temp. FUEL LEVEL Never operate at WOT when the vehicle fuel levels are below a 1/8 tank. Low fuel levels could cause the fuel pump to cavitate and you’ll have fuel flow spikes resulting in lean conditions and consequently detonation.

CONGRATULATIONS Your new Whipple Supercharger is engineered to significantly increase your engines power across a broad range of RPM’s. It is Whipple’s goal to improve your driving experience for many miles and years to come. Whipple Superchargers operate as an air pump and contain internal rotors that are driven by the engine’s crankshaft and serpentine belts. The supercharger compresses outside air and channels it into the engine’s intake ports. Because of their design, superchargers may generate some additional noise over the standard, normally aspirated induction system. At idle, you may hear a medium-pitch rattle from the supercharger main housing. This will diminish at about 400-500 rpm above idle. You may also experience a muffled high-pitched whine during acceleration. This is caused by the pumping action of the supercharger compressing air and only occurs during boost conditions. It is inaudible during part-throttle acceleration. These are normal noises associated with any supercharger and have no effect on supercharger performance or engine durability. Your supercharger is warranted by Whipple Superchargers, please see your terms and conditions on the back of your invoice for more information in regards to the limited warranty. NOTE: Whipple Superchargers will not authorize any warranty repair work or supercharger replacement for normal noise

SUPERCHARGER INSTALL ATION MANUAL - TREperformance

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