Sunscreens

Symrise, always inspiring more 1

SYMRISEUV PROTECTION SYSTEMS


Wavelength (nm).

THE ELECTROMAGNET SPECTRUM

COSMICRAYS

GAMMARAYS

X-RAYSVACUUM

UVUV VISIBLE INFRARED

MICRO-WAVES

RADIOWAVES

200 290 320 340 400

VACUUMUV

MIDDLE-WAVE UVUV-B

LONG-WAVE UVUV-A

VISIBLELIGHT

SHORT-WAVE UVUV-C

UVA II UVA I


COMPOSITION OF RADIATION REACHING THE SKIN

> Infra red 56%> Visible 39%> UVA 4.9%> UVB 0.1%


70% of UVBis absorbed by

Stratum Corneum

UVR

Hair Shaft

SebaceousGlands

Arteriole(blood supply)

Veinlet(blood supply)

SweatGlands

Dermis (1000 to 4000 m)

Subcutaneous Tissue

UVA penetratesto the Dermis where it is absorbed by the structuralproteins (Collagen/Elastin)

promoting wrinkling

Stratum Corneum(10 to 20 m)

UVA UVB

PENETRATION OF UV RADIATION THROUGH THE SKIN


PRODUCTRANGE


> The Neo Heliopan product range contains a comprehensive selection of UV absorbers that play an important role world-wide. This versatility affords the formulator a high degree of flexibility in developing suncare and cosmetic products for daily use.

PRODUCT RANGE

water-solubleUV-BPhenylbenzimidazoleSulfonic Acid

Hydro

oil-solubleUV-AButylMethoxydibenzoylmethane

357

oil-solubleUV-BIsoamyl p-Methoxy-cinnamate

Galanganatural sunscreen

oil-solubleUV-BIsoamyl p-Methoxy-cinnamate

E 1000nature-identical

oil-solubleUV-BEthylhexylMethoxycinnamate

AV

SolubilityType of UVAbsorber

INCI NameNeo Heliopan Product


PRODUCT RANGE

water-solubleUV-ADisodium PhenylDibenzimidazoleTetrasulfonate

AP

oil-solubleUV-AMenthyl AnthranilateMA

oil-solubleUV-B and UV-ABenzophenone-3BB

oil-solubleUV-BHomosalateHMS

oil-solubleUV-B4-Methylbenzylidene Camphor

MBC

oil-solubleUV-BEthylhexyl SalicylateOS

oil-solubleUV-BOctocrylene303

SolubilityType of UVAbsorber

INCI NameNeo Heliopan Product


> The UV absorber range is complemented by Zinc Oxides.

PRODUCT RANGE

oil and waterphase

UV-B and UV-AZinc OxideZinc Oxide Pi

oil phaseUV-B and UV-AZinc Oxide, DimethiconeZinc Oxide NDM

oil and waterphase

UV-B and UV-AZinc OxideZinc Oxide neutral

DispersabilityType of UV Absorber

INCI NameProduct


+ approvedo not approved

Part 1

PRODUCT RANGEPRESENT LEGISLATION IN KEY MARKETS

++++303

++++357

++++ Hydro

+00+E 1000 and Galanga

++++AV

AUSTRALIAJAPANUSAEUNeo Heliopan

Symrise, always inspiring more 10+ approvedo not approved

Part 2


+00+AP

+0+0MA

++++BB

++++HMS

+00+MBC

++++OS

AUSTRALIAJAPANUSAEUNeo Heliopan



Approval

10*1610OilUV-B/UV-A

Benzophenone 3BB

100010WaterUV-ADisodium Phenyl DibenzimidazoleTetrasulfonate

AP

15101510OilUV-BHomosalateHMS

4004OilUV-B4-Methylbenzylidene CamphorMBC

51035OilUV-AButyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane357

10101010OilUV-BOctocrylene303

4348WaterUV-BPhenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid HYDRO

51055OilUV-BEthylhexyl Salicylate (Octyl Salicylate)OS

100010OilUV-BIsoamyl p-MethoxycinnamateGALANGA

5050OilUV-AMenthyl AnthranilateMA

100010OilUV-BIsoamyl p-MethoxycinnamateE1000

10107.510OilUV-BEthylhexyl Methoxycinnamate (OctylMethoxycinnamate)AV

AUJPUSECSolubilityUV-filterINCI NameNeo Heliopan Typ

Max conc. in "%" ; "0" not approved

*1rinse-off 100%, leave-on 5%, mucous membranes 5%


Neo HeliopanAV AND E1000


Neo Heliopan AV AND E1000

EEC: max. 10 %USA: not approvedJapan: not approvedCanada: not approvedAustralia: max. 10 %South Africa: max. 10 %Brazil: max. 10 %

EEC: max. 10 %USA: up to 7.5 %Japan:

rinse-off: max. 20%leave-on: max.20%mucous memb.: max. 8%

Canada: max. 8,5%Australia: max. 10 %South Africa: max. 10 %Brazil: max. 10 %

Approved dosages:

approved in EECUSA: approval applied for

World-wide approvedRegulations:

Isoamyl p-MethoxycinnamateEthylhexyl MethoxycinnamateINCI Name:

E 1000 (656083)AV (660523)Neo Heliopan


Neo Heliopan AV AND E1000Neo Heliopan AV

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0,6

0,7

0,8

0,9

1,0

1,1

250 260 270 280 290 300 310 320 330 340 350

1%E 1cm UV-C UV-B UV-A

wavelength in nm

Neo Heliopan E 1000

0,0

0,1

0,2

0,3

0,4

0,5

0,6

0,7

0,8

0,9

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250 260 270 280 290 300 310 320 330 340 350


wavelength in mm



oil-soluble, not soluble in water; higher solvent capacity than Neo Heliopan AV for crystalline and oil-soluble ingredients

oil-soluble, not soluble in water; excellent solvent for crystalline and oil-soluble ingredients

Solubility:

liquid (- 30C)liquid (- 10C)Condition:

E 1000 (656 083)AV (660 523)Neo Heliopan


> Increase in SPF (sun protection factor) through the use of acombination of Neo Heliopan E1000 and AV


7.4 (+ 48 %)3.75 % E 1000 and3.75 % AV

(Total: 7.5 %)

6.3 (+ 26 %)2.5 % E 1000 and2.5 % AV

(Total: 5.0 %)

5.07.5 % AV

Sun Protection FactorMean SPF (FDA) on 15 Subjects

Quantities used in an O/W Emulsion


Neo Heliopan AV AND E1000IMPORTANT PROPERTIES

> Broadly used as essential UV-B absorbers> Excellent UV-B absorbers for UV-broadband protection products> Excellent UV-B absorbers for waterproof products> Very good compatibility to the skin; comprehensive safety studies> Moderate photostability> Easily to incorporate into emulsions; cold processing possible> Excellent compatibility with cosmetic ingredients


NEO HELIOPAN AV AND E1000IMPORTANT PROPERTIES

> Excellent solvent for crystalline and oil-soluble UV absorbers; E1000 has a higher solvent capacity than AV

> Combinations of AV and E 1000 in sunscreen products can increasethe effectiveness (SPF)

> E 1000 is the only frequently used sunscreen which is found in nature

> Synthetically produced Isoamyl p-Methoxycinnamate is identical to thep-Methoxycinnamic Acid Isoamyl Ester that is found in the nature; E 1000is therefore "nature-identical"


Neo HeliopanGALANGA


> Chemically identical to the synthetic Isoamyl p-Methoxycinnamate(Neo Heliopan E1000)

> A very safe and effective natural UV-B absorber> A patent application has been filed for manufacturing process and

employment in cosmetic products> Registered as a UV filter> Price indication: /kg 1.000,00> Marketing strategy:

application to: high class productsniche products

Neo Heliopan GALANGAIMPORTANT PROPERTIES


Neo HeliopanHYDRO


Neo Heliopan HYDRO

EEC: max. 8 %USA: up to 4 %Japan: rinse-off: max. 3%

leave-on: max.3%mucous memb.: not allowed

Canada: max. 8%Australia: max. 4%South Africa: max. 8 %Brazil: max. 8%

Approved dosages:


Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic AcidINCI Name:

Hydro (103089)Neo Heliopan


Neo Heliopan HYDRO

1%E 1cm

00,10,20,30,40,50,60,70,80,9

11,1

250 260 270 280 290 300 310 320 330 340 350 360 370 380 390 400

Wavelenght in nm

UV-C UV-B UV-A


Neo Heliopan HYDRO> Condition

fine crystalline powder

> Solubility The free acid is not water-soluble. With the addition of a base, Hydro forms highly

water-soluble salts.

> Commonly used bases Triethanolamine Sodium Hydroxide Monoethanolamine Tetrahydroxypropyl Ethylenediamine

> Quantity of base for the neutralization of 100 g Hydro approx. 54.4 g approx. 14.6 g approx. 22.3 g approx. 110.0 g

TriethanolamineSodium HydroxideMonoethanolamineTetrahydroxypropylEthylenediamine


> Recommended pH value in finished products: 7.0 to 7.5

Neo Heliopan HYDRO> Solubility of Hydro (calculated as free acid):

when neutralized with Triethanolamine when neutralized with Sodium Hydroxide when neutralized with Potassium Hydroxide

approx. 56 g Hydro in 100 g of waterapprox. 33 g Hydro in 100 g of waterapprox. 6 g Hydro in 100 g of water

> Equivalence points of the neutralization curves when neutralized with:

Triethanolamine Monoethanolamine Sodium Hydroxide Tetrahydroxypropyl Ethylenediamine

pH value 6.0pH value 6.9pH value 7.9 pH value 6.1


Neo Heliopan HYDRO> Neutralization curve of Neo Heliopan Hydro

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0.1 mol/l sodium hydoxide0.1 mol/l triethanolamine


> SPF results of sunscreen formulations with different dosages

Neo Heliopan HYDRO

4,03,02,01,0% Dosage Neo Heliopan Hydro

10,38,06,74,6SPF

H 102-11-9H 102-11-8H 102-11-7H 102-11-6Formulation No.:

4,6

6,7

8

10,3

Sun Protection Factor (FDA Method)


> Increase in sun protection factor through the use of a combinationof Hydro and AV or E 1000

Neo Heliopan HYDRO

7.4 (DIN)1.5 % E 1000 and1.0 % Hydro

4.4 (DIN)3.5 % E 1000

10.4 (DIN)3.0 % AV and1.0 % Hydro

4.1 (DIN)4.0 % AV

8.7 (DIN)2.5 % AV and0.5 % Hydro

3.5 (DIN)3.0 % AV

Sun Protection Factor(SPF)

Quantities used in an O/WEmulsion


> Hydro is one of the most effective UV-B absorbers

> A tremendous SPF increase could be reached by combining Hydro with AV or E 1000 in sunscreen products. Only a minimum of concentration of these combinations is necessary to achieve the desired SPF

> Hydro is very suitable for water-based transparent sunscreen products such as gels or sprays

> It is possible to formulate waterproof sunscreen products with Hydro

> Excellent photostability

Neo Heliopan HYDRO IMPORTANT PROPERTIES


Neo Heliopan303


Neo Heliopan 303

EEC: max. 10 %USA: max. 10 %Japan: rinse-off: max. 10%

leave-on: max.10%mucous memb.: max. 10%

Canada: max. 12%Australia: max. 10%South Africa: max. 10 %Brazil: max. 10 %

Approved Dosage:


OctocryleneINCI Name:

303 (600154)NEO HELIOPAN


0,0

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1,1

250 260 270 280 290 300 310 320 330 340 350 360 370 380 390


wavelength in nm

Neo Heliopan 303


Neo Heliopan 303IMPORTANT PROPERTIES> Used in combination with other UV-B absorbers to formulate high SPF

sunscreen products.> Can improve the in-vitro photostability of Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane> Excellent UV-B absorber to formulate waterproof sunscreen products

because of its very high resistance to water wash-off.> Shows remarkable protection in the shorter UV-A range (320 to 340 nm).> Is excellent photostable.> Easily to incorporate into emulsions.> Cold processing of sunscreen products possible.> Excellent solvent for crystalline and oil-soluble UV absorbers and

cosmetic ingredients.


Neo HeliopanMBC


Neo Heliopan MBC

EEC: max. 4 %Canada: max. 6%Australia: max. 4%South Africa: max. 4 %Brazil: max. 4 %

Approved dosages:

EEC: approvedUSA: approval applied forJapan: not approved

Regulations:

4-Methylbenzylidene CamphorINCI Name:

MBC (600266)NEO HELIOPAN


0,0

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0,5

0,6

0,7

0,8

0,9

1,0

1,1

250 260 270 280 290 300 315 320 330 340 350


wavelength in nm

Neo Heliopan MBC


Neo Heliopan MBCIMPORTANT PROPERTIES> Highly effective; care must be taken to ensure that MBC is completely

dissolved (excellent solvents are E 1000, AV, 303, OS, HMS and MA)

> MBC is excellent in waterproof sunscreen products as it is not soluble in water; in combination with AV, E 1000 and 303, high SPF waterproof sunscreen products can be formulated

> MBC can improve the in-vitro photostability of Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane


Neo Heliopan357


Neo Heliopan 357

EEC: max. 5%USA: max. 3% (only with certain UVB Filters)Japan: rinse-off: max. 10%

leave-on: max. 10%mucous memb.: max. 10%


Approved dosages:


Butyl MethoxydibenzoylmethaneINCI Name:

357 (622501)NEO HELIOPAN


Neo Heliopan 357

wavelength in mm


> The most important UV-A filter in world.> Maximum absorption is at 357nm with a specific extinction of about 1100

and it has additional absorbing properties in the UVA II spectrum> Highly effective; care must be taken to ensure that 357 is completely

dissolved (excellent solvents are E 1000, AV, 303, OS, HMS and MA)> Neo Heliopan 357 should be used in association with effective UVB

absorbers to achieve formulations with broad-spectrum protection. > In combination with the water soluble UVA II absorber Neo Heliopan

AP very broad spectrum UVA protection products can be formulated

Neo Heliopan 357IMPORTANT PROPERTIES


> When formulating with Neo Heliopan 357 a chelating agent should be added to the oil phase of the emulsion to avoid the formation of colored complexes with free metal ions such as iron.

> The use of formaldehyde doning preservative systems, or preservation systems with reactive methylene groups, should be avoided since these species react with Neo Heliopan 357 at temperatures above 30C. This results in loss of preservation in the formulation.

> The combination of Neo Heliopan 357 and Zinc Oxide can interact to form a complex which may precipitate out

> Neo Heliopan 303 and Corapan TQ (Diethylhexyl 2,6-Naphthalate) can improve the photostability of Neo Heliopan 357

Neo Heliopan 357IMPORTANT ADVICES FOR FORMULATIONS


Neo HeliopanOS & HMS


Neo Heliopan OS & HMS

EEC: max. 10%USA: max. 15%Japan: rinse-off: max. 10%






Approved dosages:

worldwide approvedworldwide approvedRegulations:

HomosalateEthylhexyl SalicylateINCI Name:

HMS (182573)OS (131494)NEO HELIOPAN


Neo Heliopan OS

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wavelength in nm

Neo Heliopan OS & HMSNeo Heliopan HMS

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1%E 1cmUV-C UV-B UV-A

wavelength in nm


Neo Heliopan OS & HMSIMPORTANT PROPERTIES

> Both are used for products with low and in combination with other UV filters high sun protection factors.

> They are effective solubilizers for crystalline UV absorbers such as Neo Heliopan 357, BB, MBC, Ethylhexyl Triazone, Diethylhexyl ButamidoTriazone, Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate and Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine.

> They are oil soluble and can therefore be used in water-resistant sunscreens.


Neo HeliopanBB


Neo Heliopan BB



Canada: max. 6%Australia: max. 10%South Africa: max. 10%Brazil: max. 10%

Approved dosages:

worldwide approved

EEC: 0.5 % or more is liable to declare contains Oxybenzone

Regulations:

Benzophenone-3INCI Name:

BB (116210)NEO HELIOPAN


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250 260 270 280 290 300 310 320 330 340 350 360 370 380 390


wavelength in nm

Neo Heliopan BB


> Effective broad-spectrum absorber with maximum protection in the short-wave UVB and UVA spectra (UVB approx. 286 nm, UVA approx. 325 nm)

> Excellent co-absorber in combination with a specific UVB absorber (Neo Heliopan AV, E1000, OS, HMS or Hydro)

> Suitable to protect products from colour fading

> USA: Combination with Octyl Methoxycinnamate toachieve higher SPF's

Neo Heliopan BBIMPORTANT PROPERTIES


Neo HeliopanAP


Neo Heliopan AP

EEC: max. 10%Australia: max. 10%South Africa: max. 10%Brazil: max. 10%

Approved dosages:

EEC: approvedUSA: not approvedJapan: not approvedCanada: not approved

Regulations:

Disodium Phenyl Dibenzimidazole TetrasulfonateINCI Name:

AP (106796)NEO HELIOPAN


N

N

N

N

HH

HO3S

SO3Na

SO3H

SO3Na

Neo Heliopan AP

> A yellow, hygroscopic powder with a slight to neutral odour. The fully neutralized salt is a water soluble UVA filter with a maximum absorbance at 335 nm in water at a pH of 7.0.


Neo Heliopan AP

0

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250 260 270 280 290 300 310 320 330 340 350 360 370 380 390 400Wavelenght in nm

UV-C UV-B UV-A1%E1cm

Symrise, always inspiring more 55wavelength nm

%

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> Transmission Curve of 2.2% Neo Heliopan AP in an O/W Emulsion - 8 Cuvette / Challenge Australian UV-A Standard

Neo Heliopan AP

0102030405060708090

100

290 300 310 320 330 340 350 360 370 380 390


Neo Heliopan AP> Neo Heliopan AP is virtually insoluble in water (0.25%).

> Its salts are water soluble : Sodium salt Potassium salt

TEA salt

Ammonium salt

12%13%

22%

22%

> Neo Heliopan AP is therefore preferably made into an aqueous premix of the desired salt and then added to the aqueous phase of the emulsion.


86.3 parts distilled water 9.00 parts Neo Heliopan AP 4.70 parts KOH (30% solution in water)

> Mix about 2/3 of the neutralization agent with water and add Neo HeliopanAP. Add the remaining neutralizing agent with stirring until all of the Neo Heliopan AP is dissolved.

10% Solution of Na Salt pH 7.0 - 7.5 79.10 parts distilled water 10.00 parts Neo Heliopan AP 10.90 parts NaOH (10% solution in water)

22% Solution of TEA Salt pH 7.0-7.5 56.70 parts distilled water 22.00 parts Neo Heliopan AP 21.30 parts triethanolamine

9% Solution of K Salt pH 7.0 - 7.5

Neo Heliopan APPREPARATION OF NEUTRALIZED SOLUTIONS


Neo Heliopan AP> Neutralization curve of Neo Heliopan AP

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0.1 mol/l sodiumhydroxide

0.1 mol/ltriethanolamine


> Neo Heliopan AP is a highly effective and photostable UVA II absorber which forms water soluble salts with the addition of a base.

> Neo Heliopan AP is practically odorless, has an excellent stability and is compatible with other ingredients and packaging

> In sun care formulations it shows synergistic effects with oil-soluble UVB filters

> In combination with the UVA I absorber Neo Heliopan 357 very broad spectrum UVA protection products can be formulated

> It has an excellent safety profile including extremely low skin penetration.

> Suitable for water-based transparent sunscreen products such as gels or clear sprays

> Waterproof sunscreens can be formulated

Neo Heliopan APIMPORTANT PROPERTIES


> Neo Heliopan AP is a fine yellow powder. The free acid is virtually insoluble in water. By the addition of a base such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide or triethanolamine the water soluble salts will be formed.

> Neo Heliopan AP can be added non-neutralized to the aqueous phase of the formulation, addition of a neutralization base with vigorous stirring will form the salt which then dissolves into the aqueous phase

> Neo Heliopan AP can be also added as aqueous pre-mix.

> In finished formulations Neo Heliopan AP is stable in a wide pH range (5.0 9.0) without incurring the risk of crystallization.

> Care has to be taken when Neo Heliopan AP is used in the presence of quaternary ammonium salts since complexes may form.

Neo Heliopan APIMPORTANT ADVICES FOR FORMULATIONS


> To fulfill the requirements of the Australian Standard about 2.2% active Neo Heliopan AP are necessary. It should be noted that Neo Heliopan AP is not soluble in the solvents recommended by method 1 of the standard and therefore to strictly conform with the standard methods 2 or 3 should be used. An alternative solution method is to use a 50 : 50 mixture of Isopropanol and Methanol as solvent.

> Tocopherol is known to incur discoloration problems in a number of formulations; therefore we recommend the usage of tocopheryl acetate when formulating with Neo Heliopan AP.

> Neo Heliopan AP is an electrolyte and therefore will have an effect upon theviscosity of carbomer-thickened emulsions or gels. The addition of a non-carbomer derived thickening agent such as xanthan gum and its derivatives will increase the viscosity of the formulation

> If Neo Heliopan AP is combined with Zinc Oxide we recommend to disperse Neo Heliopan AP directly into the aqueous phase and then dissolve it by adding the neutralizing agent until a pH of about 5 is reached

Neo Heliopan APIMPORTANT ADVICES FOR FORMULATIONS


Neo Heliopan AP

> No Crystals of Disodium PhenylDibenzimidazole Tetrasulfonate(pH 5.0)


> Synergistic effects with oil soluble UV-B filters

Neo Heliopan AP

SPF 3

SPF 7

SPF 14

2.2% AP 5% 303 + 3% MBC 2.2% AP + 5% 303 + 3% MBC


PPD PF 4.7PPD PF 4.6

1.5% N.H. AP 1.5% N.H. 357

Neo Heliopan AP


INORGANIC PIGMENTSZINC OXIDE


ZINC OXIDE> Zinc Oxide has a long history of use as a skin protectant and has been used

in a wide range of dermatological and cosmetic preparations. In addition to its protecting, soothing, healing and antimicrobial properties, zinc oxide effectively scatters and absorbs UV radiation to provide broad band UV protection. It is commonly used in combination with organic UV filters to obtain an optimum level of protection.

> Symrise supply 3 grades of Zinc Oxide, 2 of which are microfine inorganic pigments and the other is a submicron pigment with a primary particle size above 200nm. All of these 3 grades can be used in suncare formulations without incurring an unacceptable whitening effect upon the skin.


ZINC OXIDE

oil and water phaseUV-B and UV-ASub-micron Zinc Oxide USPZinc Oxide Pi

oil phaseUV-B and UV-AZinc Oxide neutral coated with Dimethicone and is USP

Zinc Oxide NDM

oil and water phaseUV-B and UV-AMicrofine zinc oxide which has a neutral pH and is USP

Zinc Oxide neutral

DispersabilityType of UV Absorber

TypeProduct


> Light transmission curve

Zinc Oxide neutral Instrument: Perkin Elmer Lambda 2, UV / vis Spectrophotometer.

Concentration: 10% Dispersion in Isopropyl Palmitate.Cell Thickness: 10 m Quartz cell (calibrated against Isopropyl Palmitate)

Wavelength (nm)

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6

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02468

10121416

5 10 15% Microfine Zinc Oxide

S

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F

> Linearity of SPF by dosage of Zinc Oxide neutral.from W/O exipient formulated with Zinc Oxide neutral V-21872

Zinc Oxide neutral


DISCLAIMERThese suggestions and data are based on information we believe to be reliable. They are offered in good faith, but without guarantee, as conditions and methods of use of our products are beyond our control. Symrise makes no warranties, either expressed or implied, as to the accuracy or appropriateness of this data. Symrise expressly disclaims any implied warranty of fitness for a particular use. We recommend that prospective users determine for themselves the suitability of Symrise materials and suggestions for any use prior to their adoption. We also recommend that prospective users, as required, obtain approval from appropriate regulatory authorities. Suggestions for uses of our products or the inclusion of descriptive material from patents and the citation of specific patents in this publication should not be understood as recommending the use of our products in violation of any patent or as a permission or license to use any patent of Symrise.

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