Study on local wine production processes in Epirus

CROSS-BORDER NETWORK FOR THE PROMOTION OF WINE PRODUCTS

DELIVERABLE 3.1.3

Study on local wine production processes in Epirus

July 2013

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TABLE OF CONTENTS

INTRODUCTION ........................................................................................................ 3

1. THE BEGINNING OF THE HARVEST ................................................................... 9

2. WHITE VINIFICATION .................................................................................... 11

3.1 Modern Techniques ............................................................................................... 11

3.2 Traditional Practices .............................................................................................. 17

3. RED VINIFICATION ........................................................................................ 18

4.1 Modern Techniques ............................................................................................... 18


4. SPARKLING WINES ......................................................................................... 27

5.1 Modern Production Techniques .............................................................................. 27


5. LEGAL FRAMEWORK ON WINE ....................................................................... 31

6.1 Community Legislation ........................................................................................... 31

6.2 National Legislation ............................................................................................... 32

6. SPIRITS .......................................................................................................... 35

7.1 Tsipouro and Grape Spirits ..................................................................................... 35

7.1.1 Traditional Production of Tsipouro ................................................................... 37

7.1.2 Modern methods for the production of tsipouro ................................................ 39

7.1.3 Tsipouro and its ingredients ............................................................................ 39

7.1.4 Alcohol in human body ................................................................................... 43

7.1.5 Legal framework on distillation ........................................................................ 44

7.2 Vinegar ................................................................................................................. 45

7.2.1 Historical Data ................................................................................................ 45

7.2.2 Vinegar & health ............................................................................................ 46

7.2.3 Methods of acidification .................................................................................. 48

7.2.4 The ingredients of vinegar .............................................................................. 50

7.2.5 Legal framework on acidification ..................................................................... 51

7. DELICACIES .................................................................................................... 53

8. LIQUEURS ....................................................................................................... 58

9. LEGISLATION IN ALCOHOLIC BEVERAGES ..................................................... 59

10.1 Applicable european legislation in alcoholic beverages ........................................... 59

10.2 Applicable national legislation in alcoholic beverages ............................................. 62

10. REFERENCES ................................................................................................ 70

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INTRODUCTION

The project entitled Cross-border Network for the Promotion of Wine Products is intended to the establishment of joint actions aiming at the promotion of cultural and natural heritage on one hand, and the development of tourism at the cross border region between Greece and Italy on the other, with wine and vine as the main axis. The corporate structure for this specific project, which bears the acronym WINENET, consists of the following five bodies: Development Agency of Epirus S.A. (Coordinating Partner), Regional Unit of Ioannina, Municipality of Konitsa, Municipality of Cellino San Marco (Brindisi, Apulia) and Municipality of Guagnano (Lecce, Apulia).

The present study-project is part of the Work Package 3 Studies/Researches of the project and aims to study the processes of wine production in Epirus and the recording of relevant legislation.

Apart from the introduction chapter, the current study consists of ten additional chapters. In the first chapter these is the wine description of the region of Epirus where a record of the areas with vineyards, wine production in the country and presented the produced wines.

The second chapter presents the launch of vintage and the factors that shape it.

In the third, fourth and fifth chapter present respectively modern and traditional techniques for white, red and sparkling wines. Respectively for each category of wine it is presented typical wines of the region and wine-growing regions where it is produced.

In the sixth chapter it is presented the legislation governing the wine, both Community and national.

The next chapter deals with spirits and specifically tsipouro and vinegar. Regarding tsipouro it is presented modern and traditional preparation methods, analyzed its components and examined the effects of alcohol on the human body. Regarding vinegar, it is presented historical data and methods of acidification, analyzed its components while there is also a record of the legislative framework governing acidification.

In the eighth chapter there is a record of traditional dishes of Epirus directly related to the wine tradition and culture of the wider region and the ninth chapter presents liqueurs prepared with tsipouro like rakomelo.

Finally the tenth chapter concentrates the current European and national legislation on alcoholic beverages. This chapter is the listing of references.

The working group

Ioanna Papaioannou, Project Manager, Agronomist of Agricultural Economy, Aristotle University of Thessaloniki, MSc

Vasilios Tsekeridis, Assistant Project Manager, Engineer of Planning and Regional Development, Master in BA, MSc in Finance

Argyropoulou Kyriaki, Engineer of Planning and Regional Development, MSc

Purpose and Methodology of the Study

The present study has as main purpose the recording of traditional and modern methods of production of vine products. The production procedures are studied and described, starting from the delivery of the grapes till the production of the final vine product (wine, distilled vinegar & food). Simultaneously, the legislative framework related to the aforementioned production is presented which, on the one hand is an extremely complex and involves the

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production of alcoholic beverages, and on the other hand ensures that the final product quality and public health.

The data presented in this study are mainly from primary census survey conducted in collaboration with all the production units in the region (wineries, vinegar factories, workshops manufacturing of local products, producers) , but also from all the persons involved within these authorities (Region of Epirus, Regional Unit of Ioannina, Directorate of , Agriculture and Veterinary, State General Laboratory ) .

One of the main goals of this study is the presentation of those processes that are supported by the global literature and lead to legitimate existing products, with further prospects for development and growth. For this purpose, appropriate laboratory tests are conducted, with respect to the relevant legislation, demonstrating and documenting the accuracy of secondary sources used .

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WINE DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFECTURE OF EPIRUS

In the wine map of Greece, Epirus vineyards, with 0.993%, are placed last among the nine Prefectures, having as criteria both the growing areas of wine grape varieties (Table 1), and the annual quantity of produced wine (only 1.36% of the total quantity produced, Table 2). Nevertheless, wine producing activity is quite widespread in Epirus, since the special microclimate of its regions in combination with its soil characteristics favour the cultivation of indigenous grape varieties and their subsequent vinification.

Table 1. Inventory of wine grape varieties by Prefecture (2006-2009, in Ha)

Prefecture 2006-2007

2007-2008

2008-2009

Eastern Macedonia -

Thrace 2,456.53 2,502.51 2,176.76

Central Macedonia

4,567.81 5,009.43 4,945.20

West Macedonia 2,557.14 2,639.59 2,653.09

Thessaly 3,320.44 4,308.05 4,396.50

Epirus 748.25 666.62 696.09

Ionian Islands 3,039.93 2,935.15 2,933.40

West part of Greece

11,093.27 9,503.09 9,380.11

Central Greece 8,161.45 8,441.28 8,104.40

Peloponnese 12,152.02 12,161.79 12,012.20

Attica 6,216.00 7,257.67 7,207.80

North Aegean 3,140.80 3,135.74 3,155.95

South Aegean 4,330.34 4,406.44 4,397.50

Crete 8,123.50 8,042.78 8,030.45

Total 69,907.48 71,010.14 70,089.45

Source: Ministry of Rural Development and Food in: ICAP (2010)

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Table 2. Geographical distribution of wine production in Greece* (2001-2007) Geographica

l region 2002-2003

2003-2004

2004-2005

2005-2006

2006-2007

Quantity % Quantity % Quantity % Quantity % Quantity % Eastern

Macedonia - Thrace

241,650 7.8 256,800 6.65 255,500 5.95 175,373 4.29 198,849 5.1

West & Central

Macedonia

201,820 6.52 245,150 6.34 273,160 6.36 355,360 8.68 274,593 7.04

Epirus 33,100 1.07 60,460 1.56 53,350 1.24 51,950 1.27 53,200 1.36

Thessaly 155,800 5.03 358,900 9.29 367,250 8.55 328,310 8.02 241,513 6.19 Peloponnese

West Central Greece

985,000 31.8 1,469,500 38.03 1,721,500 40.08 1,457,700 35.62 1,346,200 34.52

Attica & Islands

687,296 22.19 934,930 24.19 889,870 20.72 1,117,765 27.31 1,162,145 29.8

Crete 793,100 25.6 538,600 13.94 734,370 17.1 606,100 14.81 623,500 15.99

Total 3,097,766 100 3,864,340 100 4,295,000 100 4,092,558 100 3,900,000 100

*: Quantity in HL Source: Ministry of Rural Development and Food, in: ICAP (2010)

Historically, there is evidence indicating that the wine activity in the region of Epirus, Zitsa in particular, has a long tradition dating back to at least 600 AC. At the Regional Unit of Ioannina, the cultivation of varieties for the production of wine started during the 16th century. During the 19th century, travellers mention Zitsas vineyard, sparkling wines in particular, which are produced by the local variety Debina1 (Ministry of Rural Development, 2013).

However, the appearance of phylloxera in the area (mid 20th century) and the invasions of conquerors during the Second World War brought enormous destruction of Epirus vineyards. A significant obstacle to the revival of the wine activity in the region is the aging of the local population, as a result of the massive emigration of young people from Epirus. The cases of local people attempting to be involved in viticulture again is extremely limited, which is largely due to the high demands of this manual job (Vakalis, 2003).

In 1954, the first attempt to regenerate Epirus vineyard is made through the establishment of the Viticultural Cooperative of Zitsa, which, during the first years of its operation, had limited facilities (Ministry of Rural Development, 2013). At the same time, at the end of the 1950s, Evangelos Averoff contributed decisively to the replanting of Metsovo, through the planting of the first vines of the French variety Cabernet Sauvignon and bottling successfully the first wine bearing the name Katogi Averoff at his place of residence. During the following years, stumps of vines of local varieties are also found, which are under investigation by the Averoff Foundation (http://www.katogi-strofilia.gr/history.html).

In 1973, the first organised winery of the region is established in Zitsa, following the initiative of the Union of Agricultural Cooperatives of Ioannina. A year before, under the threat of complete extinction of Debina variety, the Viticultural Zone of Zitsa was institutionalised as a wine of High Quality Appellation of Origin (VQPRD, D 183, G.G. 40//17.03.1972 and

1 According to other reports, Debina is cultivated in the region of Epirus since the 7th century AD (Ministry of Rural Development and Food, 2013).

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228173, G.G. 287/b/27.04.72). This particular region includes the vineyards of six settlements of the Municipality with the same name (Zitsa, Karitsa, Ligopsa, Gavrisioi, Protopappa, Klimatia)2. During the same period, in the context of an organised attempt of both governmental and cooperative bodies for restructuring and modernisation, replanting of the region is carried out using pest-resistant rootstocks grafted with cuttings resilient to phylloxera as well as through the introduction of linear cultivation practices (Ministry of Rural Development, 2013). These efforts paid off, which is evident today by the production of certified wines of exceptional quality.

Table 3. Produced wines of the Prefecture of Epirus

Category Level Wine Acknowledgement/

amendment G.G.

PDO Wines Region PDO

Zitsa

40/A/17.3.1972

287/B/27.4.1972

617/B/12.10.1992

747/B/30.08.1995

PGI Wines (Local)

Prefecture PGI of Epirus

(Local wine of Epirus)

657//23.5.2000

Regional Unit PGI of Ioannina

(Local wine of Ioannina)

126//26.2.1997 262//7.4.1997 190//20.2.2002

Region PGI of Metsovo

(Local wine of Metsovo)

140//3.3.1997

1125//23.7.2010

Source: Ministry of Rural Development and Food, 2013

As shown by the data in Table 3, at the Prefecture of Epirus, wine production activity is mainly conducted at the Regional Unit of Ioannina, in which about 600 hectares of vineyards are cultivated nowadays. The greatest part of vineyards is situated at the region of Zitsa (approximately 150 hectares, Prefecture of Epirus, personal communication)3. Vineyards are also situated at Metsovo, Grammenochoria, the valleys of Kalamas (region of Pogoni) and Aoos (region of Konitsa and Mastrochoria) rivers, as well as at the plateau of Ioannina (Prefecture of Epirus, personal communication).

According to the Ministerial decision 247771/04-03-2010 of the Ministry of Rural Development and Food, the wine grape varieties within the viticultural unit of Epirus are those presented in Table 4. Below are the main local vine varieties of Epirus included among them:

Debina: A variety that is mainly found at the Viticultural Zone of Zitsa and used for the production of both dry white wines, as well as sparkling and semi-sparkling wines. The vast majority (95%) of cultivated vineyards are situated within the Regional Unit of Ioannina (Makris, 2013). More specifically, Debina is used for the

2 The largest part of the Zone is situated at the plateau of Zitsa (average altitude:650 m.), and the rest is situated either at higher altitude, at the slopes of the surrounding mountains (up to 800 m.), or at lower altitudes, at the slopes of the mountain leading to the riverside of Kalamas river (up to 550 m.) (Makris, 2007). 3 Historically, apart from Zitsa, wine regions that are also referred include Grammeno (Municipality of Passaronos), Abelochori (Municipality of Pramanta), Metsovo and Votonosi (Municipality of Metsovo), Kalaki (Municipality of Pogoni), Aristi (Municipality of Zagori), as well as the region of Konitsa (Vakalis, 2003, Makris, 2007).

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production of dry white wines of Protected Designation of Origin Zitsa, as well as the Local Wine of Ioannina, which is a mixture of Debina and local varieties Vlachico and Bekiari (Ministry of Rural Development and Food, 2013). It is also worth mentioning that certain wines, such as sparkling white PDO wine or semi-sparkling rose wine produced by Debina, constitute just 1% of the total wine production in Greece (Makris, 2013).

Vlachiko: A red variety that is mainly cultivated in the Regional Unit of Ioannina, as well as other regions of Epirus, to a lesser extent. It is used in the production of dry red wines (Local Wines of Metsovo and Ioannina), which are usually aging in barrels (Spinthiropoulou, 2000; Ministry of Rural Development and Food, 2013).

Bekari or Bekiari: A red variety that is used in the production of light red and rose wines (Local Wine of Ioannina) and it is cultivated in small areas, mainly at the Regional Unit of Ioannina (Stavrakas, 2010; Ministry of Rural Development and Food, 2013).

Table 4. Wine grape varieties within the viticultural unit of Epirus

Level Varieties

Recommended Allowed

Viticultural unit

Epirus Malagouzia , Rhoditis Rs (Alepou)

-

Regional Unit

Ioannina

Debina , Cabernet Franc N, Cabernet Sauvignon N, Chardonnay B, Gewrztraminer Rs (1)4, Merlot N, Riesling B

Vlachiko , Bekari Xinomavro (Xinogaltso, Popolka), Sauvignon Blanc B Syrah N

Temporarily allow ed: Agiorgitiko (2007) Pinot Noir N (2007)

Arta - Agiorgitiko , Asproudes (3)5 Mavroudia (3), Debina , Cabernet, Sauvignon N, Chardonnay B

Thesprotia - Asproudes (3), Kontokladi , Mavroudia (3), Debina

Preveza Debina Asproudes (3), Vertzami , Korithi , Mavroudia (3)

Source: Ministry of Rural Development and Food (247771/04-03-2010)

4 Exponential number 1 indicates that the variety is indicated in regions where the altitude is 350 metres or more. When the altitude is lower it is allowed. Exponential number 2 indicates varieties of double and special use. Exponential number 3 indicates groups of white or coloured varieties under study and identification, e.g. Mavroudia are included in the varieties named Mavraki (Lakonia), Mavrostyfo (Argolida) etc.

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1. THE BEGINNING OF THE HARVEST

The quality of grapes and, thus, of the products produced by them, depends on many factors. Soil characteristics and climate conditions of each region and each year in combination with the applied measures and techniques for the protection of the vineyards aim at getting the best possible raw materials from the viticulturist. Grapes' ripening period varies, too, depending on cultivated variety and the region where each vineyard is situated.

There are two types of grapes ripening, natural or organic ripening of pips and industrial or ripening of the berries flesh. The first method is characterised by the pips ability to germinate, while the second corresponds to the maximum absolute amount of sugars of the mature grapes. Nevertheless, none of the above mentioned methods is that interesting in oenology. What is interesting is the third process of technological ripening, corresponding to the point when the grape of a variety produces must, with the appropriate chemical content for a particular type of wine to be produced (Soufleros H. 2000).

One way to define technological maturation is using the content of grapes must in sugars as a percentage or in grams/litre, as well as the percentage of acid content expressed as tartaric acid. A prerequisite for the accurate definition of the date of harvest is the regular sampling of the grapes after the beginning of ripening and the measurement of the concentration of sugars and acids. Therefore, generally speaking, for each type of wine, these links are formed correspondingly.

Red wine: 21-23% sugars and 5-7gr/lt acids White wine: 19-21% sugars and 7-8gr/lt acids Table wines: 17-19% sugars and 8-9gr/lt acids Spirits: 16-18 % sugars and more than 9-10gr/lt acids Dessert wines: 24-26% sugars and 5gr/lt acids approximately

( ., . , . (2000)).

During the process of ripening, sugars' quantity (mainly glucose and fructose) on grapes berries is increased, while the levels of acids are decreasing. The link between the two ingredients is determined by the level of grapes degree of ripeness and it is expressed using the equation

Degree of ripeness = Total sugars / Total acidity

In order to establish the exact harvesting time various maturity indicators are used by wine makers, which are usually numerical ratios of sugars to acids or individual acids concentration, such as tartaric acid to all of them, as well as other parameters (Tzitzi M., Kyparissiou, P., 2008).

Measurements of sugars percentage of grapes in the vineyard is carried out using a refractometer for measuring sugar content in Brix, while acidity measurement requires laboratory environment (titration using 0,1n NaOH). To determine the musts content in sugars a densitometer is used calibrated based on Baume degrees - 0Be. In both cases the results are matched through certain tables of sugars content per litre (Tzitzi M., Kyparissiou, P., 2008).

When grapes are ready, harvesting period begins, which is carried out either manually or using machines. In cases of manual picking, it is also desirable to sort the grapes. This means the avoidance of collecting rotten or infected bunches while taking care not to hurt the plants and not to pick up leaves, stalks, and helices, which later affect negatively the produced wines quality. Mechanical gathering automatic harvesting machinery, becomes more and

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more famous, as it is the most economic and efficient method. However, in order to be applied, vineyards should be appropriately designed to allow the movement of the machine. Therefore, it will never be possible for it to replace human in vineyards situated at slopes or terraces, or to be used for the harvest of infected grapes. (Tzitzi M., Kyparissiou, P., 2008).

The beginning of the harvest should delay 2-3 days in case of rainfall, to allow the grapes to regain their natural yeasts, which are responsible for alcoholic fermentation. In rainy weather quality characteristics of grapes are downgraded, while if harvest is quite delayed there is a risk of fungal growth (rotting) and deterioration of raw materials health status (Politis G. 2002).

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2. WHITE VINIFICATION

3.1 Modern Techniques

In principle, white wines are produced by the fermentation of the must of white grape varieties, which takes place exclusively in this must, without the grape marc necessarily included in that. The fact that during white vinification it is not necessary to include must and grape marc constitutes its most important difference to red vinification and, thus, the separation of must should be performed as soon as possible. There are also cases in which white wine is produced by red grapes, such as Kabanitis wine, as well as cases in which fermentation may be carried out with white varieties grape marc. (Soufleros . 2000)

White varieties vinification is a quite sensitive process, requiring particularly careful handling by the wine maker and the separation of the must as soon as possible. The absence of tannins in white varieties grapes, protecting the must from oxidation, as well as the typically delicate nature of their aromas often create risks to the successful outcome of vinification (Konstantinou G. 2009).

In the case of white wines, a prerequisite is the harvesting of grapes on the right time depending on their ripening, which is when their most intense aroma is achieved, since, as usually said a white wine without aroma has nothing. In our case, the word aroma is used to refer to the aroma of grapes mainly, not the secondary aroma developed during a successful alcoholic fermentation process. (Soufleros . 2000)

The said appropriate time is just before grapes get to the stage of full maturation, since early harvesting gives equally delicate and usually cleaner and more discrete wines compared to late harvesting. (Soufleros . 2000).

Grapes are taken to the winery and, straight after that, the berries are crushed, while the stage of destemming is not essential. The objective of crushing the berries is to crush the skin of the berry and take out their juice and flesh. In the case of white vinification, the presence of stems facilitates the separation of the must during the process of pressing the grape mash, and no special problems occur, since grape marc is removed from the beginning and there is only must left for fermentation. (Soufleros . 2000).

In certain cases - white vinification through skin contact maceration, the process of destemming, i.e. separating the stems from the berries.

When the grapes quality is excellent, grape mash (must, skin and seeds) may stay for some hours at low temperature, so that to enrich the aromas and flavours of the must. There are characteristics of aromas and flavours on the skin, which are released in the must, after a short period that they are together, a process called skin contact maceration. This is carried out at low temperatures, which ensure to a great extent that the above mentioned astringent and bitter characteristics will not come out, while preventing the process of alcoholic fermentation. This way, the maceration of water soluble substances is achieved, without alcohol, since fermentation has not started yet. If this process is carried out at temperatures around zero and/or below zero, then it is referred as cold maceration. The application of the above mentioned technique called cold maceration requires appropriate equipment, i.e. tanks with cooling system, preventing the rise in temperature of the mixture and, ultimately, the beginning of alcoholic fermentation. (Tzitzi M., Kyparissiou, P., 2008; Konstantinou G., 2009; Soufleros H. 2000).

The next stage of processing includes the separation of the must from the rest of the grape mashs ingredients (skin and seeds) at the wine press. The modern, so called pneumatic

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presses work through the filling of an inner tube lying within them, with air or water. This way moderate pressure of the grape mash is achieved, avoiding the transfer of the grapes skin in the must. The percentage of must from each filling of the wine press depends on the variety, grapes condition and the desired result of each vinification. Usually low pressures are applied on high quality wines, to get first-press must only, i.e. the first part of the must from the wine press. (Konstantinou G. 2009)

Before the beginning of alcoholic fermentation it is many times necessary to correct the must. In theory, having specified the appropriate time for the beginning of the harvest, balance of the must is already achieved at the vineyard in a natural way and without the involvement of the wine maker. However, unfavourable weather conditions may lead to incomplete as well as excessive and hasty ripening of the grapes. Therefore, in regions with dry and warm climate it is usually necessary to increase the musts acidity, as it is reduced with the ripening of the grapes. This is achieved by adding tartaric acid before and/or during alcoholic fermentation process, something that should be done very carefully, since if the required amount is exceeded the wine will become bitter. On the other hand, in regions with cooler climate and, thus, less sunshine, vineyards show problems related to grapes ripening. In such cases, certain countries allow the addition of sugar at the beginning of alcoholic fermentation, a process known as chaptalisation, aiming at increasing the alcohol content of the produced wine, not its sweetness, since during alcoholic fermentation that follows, all added Sugar is converted to alcohol (Konstantinou G. 2009).

Another important process during whine vinification is sulphitation. White must does not have adequate phenolic compounds for protection, while at the same time oxidation effects are more intense and profound on the colour and primary aroma. The quantity of SO2 that will be used depends on the grapes condition, the musts acidity, its pH and its temperature. Therefore SO2 protects the must from oxidation by binding oxygen, and inhibits the growth of microorganisms, as it is much more active against bacteria than against yeast. (Soufleros . 2000).

After the wine press, the must is placed in stainless steel tanks, where it is left to stand at low temperature for about 24 hours. During this time, precipitation of solid particles of the must by the action of gravity takes place - static debourbage, while sediment, called wine lees is formed, and then removed (Tzitzi M., Kyparissiou, P., 2008; Konstantinou G., 2009). The cooling of the must may be also applied for this purpose (Soufleros H. 2000). Wines produced after debourbage are clearer, with a more stable and less sensitive to oxidation colour. (Konstantinou G. 2009). The process of debourbage may be carried out using other methods, such as floatation (suspended particles use inert gases to get to the surface forming foam), centrifugation and filtration (using special filters) (Tzitzi M., Kyparissiou, P., 2008; Soufleros, H. 2000).

Alcoholic fermentation is a process during which the musts sugars are converted to alcohol using yeasts while temperature is released simultaneously. A typical process is the addition of readymade yeasts to the must that are sold in the market, replacing natural ones, thus ensuring a much more confident and expected outcome. If yeasts are not added by the wine maker, fermentation is called natural, while in other cases controlled. Alcoholic fermentation takes place in stainless steel tanks under controlled temperatures. Temperature at this stage is maintained at low levels, usually not exceeding 18 - 20 oC, since above this limit primary aromas of the wine are lost and its freshness is reduced. Whether oak barrels will be used at this stage or not depends on the desired result and the variety of the grapes. For example Chardonnay can be fermented and matured in oak barrels. During maturation

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within the barrel batonnage process takes place, during which the wine is mixed with its wine lees and yeasts, resulting in the enhancement of its aroma and flavour. Wines vinified using the method of batonnage are usually more expensive than those vinified in tanks, have more intense aroma, richer body and greater aging potential. (Konstantinou G. 2009).

After alcoholic fermentation malolactic fermentation takes place, during which malic acid that has intense and acid taste is converted by lactic acid bacteria of wine (or added too) into lactic acid, thus reducing the wines acidity. This fermentation strengthens the richness and fullness of the wines aroma with mild aromas resembling those of dairy products, such as the aroma of butter (Konstantinou G. 2009). It is an optional process for white wines and it is usually desirable for those intended to be consumed after the process of maturation and aging in barrels (Tzitzi M., Kyparissiou, P., 2008).

After the completion of alcoholic fermentation wines are transferred to clean tanks, where they are left to stay so that to separate the wine lees they have additional debourbage. Each tank has its own aroma and flavour and, after repeated tastings the most appropriate mixture is determined, expressing the best possible final product every time. Any problematic vinification will be identified at this stage and it will not be included in the final blend. (Konstantinou G. 2009)

Following this, the wine is stabilised in terms of its content in both tartrates tartaric stabilisation and proteins proteinic stabilisation. The wines tartrates that come from the grapes, despite being harmless to humans, make it cloudy and should be removed. This is why in tanks with a temperature control system, temperature should be below 0 oC so that tartrates precipitate and, subsequently, removed from the wine through another transfer. Suspended particles are also removed using a similar process. Usually bentonite is added to wine, which aggregates suspended protein particles and drifts them in the form of sediment at the bottom of the tanks. Last remaining undesirable substances (yeasts, salts, amount of sediment) are removed through filtering. Soon after that most white wines are bottled and distributed in the market while maintaining their freshness. (Konstantinou G. 2009)

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Diagram 1: White Vinification

DESTEMMING CRUSHING

WINE PRESS ALCOHOLIC FERMENTATION

WINE LEES

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Diagram 2: White Vinification

MATURATION-AGING

DEBOURBAGE- CLARIFICATION

FILTERING

BOTTLING

STABILISATION

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By applying the methods of white vinification in the Viticultural Zone of Zitsa (as defined in the relevant legislation) quality dry white wine is produced exclusively by the indigenous variety Debina, bearing the geographical indication Zitsa Protected Designation of Origin (PDO). These are wines with a bright lime-green to pale yellow colour, and the aromas of citrus fruits, green apple, pear and white blossoms. Wines with a balanced taste, full body and the characteristic acidity of the region, as well as discrete aromatic and long lasting aftertaste. Their alcohol content is very low 11.0% vol.

To use the indication Reserve for Dry White P.D.O. Wines of Zitsa, they should be aged for at least one (1) year, of which it should be for at least six months in oak barrels and for three (3) months in bottles. Correspondingly, to use the indication Grande Rserve they should be aged for at least two (2) years, of which it should be for at least twelve (12) months in oak barrels and for six (6) months in bottles.

Debina, as well as the rest of allowed and recommended white varieties cultivated in the region (Gewurtztraminer, Chardonnay, Riesling, Sauvignon blanc, Rhoditis, Malagouzia) excellent dry and semi-dry white wines are produced bearing the relevant geographical indication from strictly demarcated areas production zones (as determined by the corresponding Ministerial decisions) and meet the exact specifications every time. Thus wines bearing the following indications are produced:

PGI of Epirus Protected Geographical Indication Epirus Pict. 1

PGI of Ioannina Protected Geographical Indication Ioannina Pict. 2

PGI of Metsovo Protected Geographical Indication Metsovo Pict. 3

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3.2 Traditional Practices

The process of white vinification is traditionally different from the above mentioned techniques, mainly due to the much smaller amount of grapes vinified and the lack of technological equipment at domestic level - domestic vinification. The pressing of the grapes used to be done with the feet on stone-made or wooden wine presses, which were slightly elevated structures, with a small inclination to one side to allow the musts flow.

The must is collected in bigger barrels, where, after being debourbaged through natural sedimentation initially, fermentation takes place, while mechanical wine presses are used to remove the rest of it remaining in the grape mash. The oldest wine presses still used today in recreational, domestic vinification, are the manual, vertical, non-continuous operation presses. The pressure is achieved through the rotation of a manual screw from the top down. This wine press allows the smooth application of pressure and the must contains very small amount of wine lees. Nevertheless, too much manual work is necessary for their operation and long pressing time (Soufleros, H. 2000).

Another important point is that the must used in vinification should as clear as possible, which is why some wine makers skip the stage of pressing the grape mash, allowing its separate fermentation, since it is the traditional raw material for distillation and the production of tsipouro.

Throughout the fermentation process that was taking place in wooden barrels, their upper part was not hermetically sealed in order to remove the generated carbon dioxide. The most beneficial fermentation temperature for white wines is, as already mentioned, 18oC, which is why underground and semi-underground cellars were used for this purpose. In this case, fermentation lasts between 5-20 days, depending on the prevailing conditions and it is worth noting that the slower it is performed, the more intense the aromatic character of the wine produced.

Oxygen of the cellar is controlled traditionally, with a lit candle in the room. While the candle burns there is oxygen in the room, which has not been replaced by carbon dioxide (Tsetouras P. 1998).

Following this, the wine is removed from its lees a few days after the end of alcoholic fermentation transfer. The barrels are then filled and the wine stays there to mature. At this stage, the barrels are hermetically sealed, since the contact of wine with air is undesirable. A second transfer may also be performed, traditionally in the end of January, since the winters low temperatures form a new sediment due to the lower level of tartrates (Tsetouras P. 1998).

If the wine is still cloudy a clarification process is applied next. This is the reason why, traditionally, 1-2 egg whites for every 100 litres of wine, which favour the creation of lees and clean the wine. Further transfers are then carried out to remove wine lees, very carefully and allowing the least possible contact of wine with air (Tsetouras P. 1998).

Afterwards, the wine may be bottled, and it would be a good idea to consume it relatively quickly in the following months, since these wines can remain within the bottle for extremely limited time.

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3. RED VINIFICATION

4.1 Modern Techniques

Red vinification differs markedly and on many points in relation to white vinification, with the main difference being that grape marc (skin and seeds) is left for some days within the must, so that to achieve the maceration of the grapes pigment. This is the main point differentiating the criteria for the beginning of the harvest of red varieties. In this case, apart from the level of grapes ripening it is also necessary to take into account the ripening of the berrys phenolic components, i.e. the quality of the skins tannins.

During red vinification, crushing and destemming of the grapes constitute the first procedures applied on the grapes. Through crushing part of the grapes juice is released, and decantation of the grape mash is induced, which is beneficial for yeasts development and enhances the maceration of the grapes pigment, while space saving of 20% is also achieved. Destemming is the removal of the (stems) from the wine marc, so that to keep only the berries and juice for vinification. Today these processes are carried out using machinery called destemmers. Therefore, with the destemmers and the above mentioned procedure, apart from reducing the grape mashs volume, the taste of the produced wine is improved since its astringent taste and grassy nature are minimised, while the colour of the final product is more intense. One of the main disadvantages of destemming is that it hinders the normal development of alcoholic fermentation. The removal of stems makes the grape mash poorer in nitrogen and restricts its decantation (Soufleros H. 2000).

The correction of the musts composition is a practice that is then applied to the grape mash, depending on the region, year and variety. Among the chemical treatments of grape mash the following are included:

Increase of the sugar content It is achieved with the addition of sugar - chaptalisation (where permitted by law), concentrated grape must or rectified must.

Reducing or increasing acidity In areas and during years that grapes ripening is not appropriately completed and they are sour, reduction of acidity is required. To achieve this, calcium carbonate or neutral potassium tartrate is used. In the other case (increase) tartaric acid is used.

Addition of sulphur dioxide - sulphitation The last process, which is essential in red vinification too, the maceration of the grapes pigment in the wine is facilitated, while allowing its long maturation in oak barrels (Soufleros H. 2000). The sulphitation of wines should necessarily be indicated with the statement contains sulphites on the label of bottled wines, in accordance with current legislation.

For alcoholic fermentation various rooms and containers have been used over the years. Initially carved stones and clay pots were used; then successively tanks made of wood, cement, coated cement, coated steel and, finally, stainless steel (Soufleros H. 2000).

In recent years, the most widely used tanks in vinification are called vinificators in the form of closed stainless tanks equipped with a cooling jacket for better temperature control and a pump system for mixing the must. (Tzitzi M., Kyparissiou, P., 2008).

Alcoholic fermentation of red varieties takes place at temperatures that should not exceed 30 oC and the musts sugars are gradually converted to alcohol while heat is released. While the grape marc (skin and seeds) is within the must, the maceration of the grapes

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pigment takes place, which will gradually pass on to the must. Initially the maceration of anthocyanins (red pigments) takes place, which are more water soluble, and then, during alcoholic fermentation, the maceration of tannins (phenolic compounds) takes place, since both the presence of alcohol and the temperature increase are necessary for them to dissolve and pass on to the wine. This process is intensified through the mixing of the must, as it is pumped from the bottom of the tanks and transferred to the top, from where it wets the grape marc, which are gathered there floating during fermentation, creating the so-called hat. The duration of maceration depends on the desired final type of wine, the variety and the quality of the vinified grapes. In the case of rose wines, maceration will only last some hours, between 12 and 24, in order to limit the maceration of the grapes pigment and create its pink colour. If vinification is intended for the production of mild red wines, maceration lasts up to five days, while if it is intended for the production of excellent aged wines this process can last up to one month and go on after the completion of alcoholic fermentation - post-fermentation maceration. (Konstantinou G. 2009).

The separation of must and grape marc is carried out in two phases. The first one includes the removal of the must-wine from the fermentation tank allowing it to flow freely and its transfer to another tank unpressed wine or first-press wine. The second phase includes the removal of the must-wine from the grape marc pressed wine, which is considered qualitatively inferior than unpressed wine. (Soufleros . 2000).

There are several types of wine presses - machines that make the separation and from where pressed wine is taken, which, in most cases, is not mixed with the remaining wine (Konstantinou G. 2009).

Malolactic fermentation takes place after alcoholic fermentation, and is a process relevant to the majority of red aged wines, as the conversion of malic acid to lactic acid is desirable for the improvement the wines flavour. It is called fermentation despite the fact that it is caused by bacteria and, during this process the unripe character of wine is reduced. In the case of light red wines with fruity character intended for immediate consumption, the stage of malolactic fermentation is usually omitted. (Konstantinou G. 2009).

Red wines intended for aging will be left for a period of up to 24 months in oak barrels. That is the place where the wines rest and mature slowly and steadily, taking advantage of the little oxygen that passes through the pores of the wood - oxidative aging. The aggressiveness of fresh wines tannins is tempered, while at the same time the aromas of wood, vanilla, spices or tobacco are transferred to it, under the beneficial influence of the oak. At different times many types of wood have been used by wine makers to make barrels, which did not deliver the desired results so oak was never finally replaced. They either had high porosity, allowing a great amount of oxygen passing through them, or intense aromas covering the wines original aromas. Therefore, for the production of barrels for vinification, mainly white oak is used, (Quercus alba) from the forests of U.S.A. and brown oak (Quercus robus and Quercus sessilis) from the forests of Northern Europe. French oak is considered the top one, which grows slowly, especially from the forests of Troncais and Nevers and has the smallest pores. (Konstantinou G. 2009).

Aging as a process may be linked to both the presence of oxygen, as already mentioned above, and its absence reductive aging that takes place in the bottles. (Tzitzi M., Kyparissiou, P., 2008).

Despite the fact that oxygen is one of the main enemies of wine, in recent years its artificial and controlled use at various stages of viniculture is steadily gaining followers. The technique of micro oxygenation is carried out through the slow ingress of oxygen from the wine

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barrel woods pores, during its maturation. Therefore, it is a system for enriching red wine with small amounts of oxygen, intended to improve its colour stability as well as its aromas and flavours, while the use of barrels is not necessary. Of course this method can only partially replace the use of barrels, for the process of oxidation only (Tzitzi M., Kyparissiou, P., 2008).

The transfer of wines from one tank to another or from one barrel to another at regular time intervals is necessary for all red wines and it is intended to their natural cleaning debourbage. This allows the removal of foreign substances, yeasts, bacteria etc from the wine (Tzitzi M., Kyparissiou, P., 2008).

Of particular significance for the final product is the clarification process for red wine fining. Then is the process of tartaric stabilisation before the filtering and bottling of wine. This is why temperature should be below 0 oC so that salts are precipitated and, subsequently, removed from the wine through another transfer. Filtering removes the last remaining unwanted ingredients from the wine before it is bottled. Wine makers, who are against both processes, insist on using traditional vinification methods, since both the flavours and the aromas of the wine are affected negatively. In this case the creation and presence of a small amount of sediment within the bottle is preferred, especially for aged wines. (Konstantinou G. 2009).

By applying the classical methods of red vinification dry red as well as dry and semi dry rose wines are produced in the region of Epirus, bearing the following indications:

PGI of Epirus Protected Geographical Indication Epirus

PGI of Ioannina Protected Geographical Indication Ioannina

PGI of Metsovo Protected Geographical Indication Metsovo

For the production of the above mentioned red wines the following varieties are used Vlachico, Xinomavro, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet franc, Merlot, Syrah, which grow within demarcated viticultural areas of Epirus. These are included in the produced wines at different proportions and combinations, as defined by the relevant Community and national legislation in each case. These are wines with a deep red colour and some glints of purple violet and cyan nuances, which may be transformed to terracotta after long aging. Complex spicy aroma, with hints of red fruits, typical of the varieties from which each wine is produced. They are characterised by their long lasting aromatic aftertaste and may be aged for a long time.

For the production of rose wines the following varieties are used at various combinations: Vlachiko, Bekari, Debina, Gewurtztraminer, Chardonnay, Riesling, Sauvignon blanc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet franc, Merlot, Syrah and Xinomavro. They are also from demarcated areas of Epirus. These are wines with a bright pink colour and complex fruity aroma, which is characteristic of the varieties used each time. Its flavour is balanced, with quite rich body, pleasantly sweet and the characteristic acidity of the region.

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Diagram 3: Red Vinification

DESTEMMING CRUSHING

ALCOHOLIC FERMENTATION MACERATION OF PIGMENT

WINE PRESS

AGING - MATURATION

DEBOURBAGE

FILTERING

STABILISATION

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Traditionally, at the level of domestic vinification, this process essentially starts by the removal of the stems from the berries and the crushing of the berries. For small amounts of grapes, destemming is still performed nowadays in many villages of Epirus manually, while crushing is traditionally performed with the feet at small wooden wine presses or using hand-held crushers.

Grape mash is then transferred to the fermentation container, which is called kadi. This container is filled up to the 3/4 with grape mash and it is wide open on its top so that to release the produced carbon dioxide to the atmosphere. During fermentation, wine marc is pushed to the top of the container forming the so-called hat. During the first days when this phenomenon is more intense, the mixture should be mixed and homogenised twice a day, usually in the morning and in the evening. This way grapes skin comes in contact with the must, and the maceration of the grapes pigment is achieved. The concurrent presence of must and grape marc depends on the variety being vinified, the desired type of wine to be produced and the prevailing conditions. According to the tradition, the duration of this period is between 20-30 days, resulting in the production of red, brusco wines with intense presence of tannins that can be aged.

Subsequently by the action of gravity and using free flow from a spigot at the lower part of the container, must is separated from the grape marc and is placed in another barrel complete its fermentation. The wine produced by this separation corresponds to 80% of total produced wine (Tsetouras P. 1998). Some must is left with the grape marc which is defermented and it usually constitutes the raw material for distillation and the production of tsipouro.

The barrel in which the wine is placed is not sealed, so that to allow the outflow of produced carbon dioxide CO2, and alcoholic fermentation is completed there. Subsequently is the sulphitation process, by adding and using metabisulphite at doses of 20-30 gr per 100 litres of wine (Tsetouras P. 1998). The barrel is then filled and hermetically sealed.

The wine is usually transferred 1-2 times until it is bottled, so that to remove wine lees that is deposited at the barrels bottom. Transfers should be carried out when the weather is cold and dry (according to the tradition on days with northern winds. Winters cold temperatures favour the formation of sediment due to the decrease of tartrates, while a second transfer is desirable at the end of January. At this stage, it is also good for the wine to have the least possible contact with the air (Tsetouras P. 1998).

In case of a non satisfactory outcome from the transfers, many wine makers are still adding egg whites in order to improve the wines clarity. Usually two to five egg whites are used for each barrel of 220 litres, which allow the natural clarification of wine and remove part of the tannins contained in it.

After the completion of the above mentioned processes, the wine matures within oak barrels and it is slowly oxygenated through the oaks pores. Temperature constitutes an important factor in relation to wines maturation, which should be stable and relatively low, between 12 and 15 oC, and can be achieved naturally at underground cellars of houses. Subsequently the wine is bottled and consumed within the following months.

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Picture 1: Map of P.D.O. production zone of Zitsa

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Picture 2: Map of the production zone of P.G.I. EPIRUS

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Picture 3: Map of the production zone of P.G.I. IOANNINA

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Picture 4: Map of the production zone of P.G.I. METSOVO

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4. SPARKLING WINES

5.1 Modern Production Techniques

Sparkling wines are those that contain carbon dioxide, so they are foaming. The easiest way to produce them is through the artificial addition of carbon dioxide; however the result is not particularly remarkable, since in this case the bubbles disappear very quickly. The wines produced by the application of the above mentioned process are called carbonated, not sparkling. In most cases, the majority of natural sparkling wines are the result of double fermentation. During the first fermentation the base wine is produced, while during the second one the bubbles are formed. The second fermentation is carried out within the bottle or, alternatively within a pressure resistant tank. (Konstantinou G. 2009)

In this category Champagne is included, which is a P.D.O. wine produced at the homonymous French region. This name is enshrined in 1891 for the first time, under the Madrid Agreement and validated with the Agreement of Versailles after the First World War (Tzitzi M., Kyparissiou P., 2008).

Champagne is traditionally produced through the fermentation process in the bottle, a method that has been gradually adopted by other wine producing areas, too. However, the use of the Protected Destination of Origin Champagne as well as the use of the term methode champenoise is prohibited for wine makers outside Champagne. The term that prevailed throughout the world for the rest of the wine makers, implying the method used in Champagen, i.e. the second fermentation within the bottle is called methode traditionnelle (traditional method). (Konstantinou G. 2009)

The Method of Champagne

Champage is definitely the best sparkling wine on earth and, as already mentioned, it is protected by the European Legislation. Varieties cultivated in Champagen for this purpose are three in total. Two red varieties, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier and the white one, Chardonnay. The term blanc de blancs (white by whites) and blanc de noirs (white by black) indicates its varietal origin, while it is evident that the majority is produced using red varieties (Soufleros H. 2000)

During harvest the selection of grapes is rigorous, removing all grapes affected by rot. Furthermore, to avoid the maceration of the grapes pigment both the harvesting and the transfer of grapes is carried out using baskets of 60-80 kg in a short time. For the production of champagne, pressing the grapes is carried out without the prior stage of crushing and destemming, at the special wine presses of Champagne. These wine presses are characterised by the large area they occupy and their small height. Thus the must can be delivered using small pressure and it does not contain many pigments (Soufleros H. 2000)

Champagnes production included six key stages.

The first alcoholic fermentation aims at the production of base wine. The wine from various tanks, which has been vinified through the classic process of white vinification, is mixed by the wine maker at specific proportions, so that to have the best possible desired outcome, reflecting the wine makers style and character each time. The mixing process is considered one of the most important stages during sparkling wines production. During this process wines from different tanks and of different years may be used, resulting in the production of non-vintage champagnes,

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while the wines of different tanks of the same year, produce vintage champagnes (Konstantinou G. 2009). The term cuvee prestige is used to indicate the special selected wine of the winery, that is of high quality and is the basis on which the final sparkling wine will be created (Tzitzi M., Kyparissiou, P., 2008). The desired alcohol content of the base wine is between 10% and 12% vol. A lower alcohol content than 10% vol. leads to problems in relation to the wines preservation, while a higher alcohol content than 12% vol can lead to difficulties regarding the progress of the second fermentation that is carried out within the bottles. (Soufleros . 2000)

Then sugar is added in the produced base wine (24-26 gr per litre) as well as yeasts, followed by the bottling in durable bottles. Yeast starts consuming the added sugar so a second fermentation takes place within the bottle, while carbon dioxide is also produced, that cannot escape, since the bottles are hermetically sealed using a special stopper.

The wines alcoholic content is increased during this phase by 1% approximately, to produce a wine with final alcoholic content between 12 and 12.5%. The produced quantity of carbon dioxide is increased by the pressure within the bottle up to 5-6 atmospheres and it is gradually integrated with the wine, thus loosing this tension. (Konstantinou G. 2009).

The bottles are stored in underground tunnels for the completion of the fermentation and after that stage, where the temperature is constant at about 11 oC and relative humidity at 80% (Soufleros H. 2000).

When this second fermentation is completed, yeasts are precipitated at the bottles walls in the form of sediment wine lees. Wines are left for some months between 15 months and 3 years on the said wine lees, so that to mature, be enriched in terms of aroma and flavour, become softer and more balanced. (Konstantinou G. 2009).

In the next stage bottles are shaken so that to allow the removal of sediment and allow the wine to have the desired clarity. They are placed in a more inclined than the initial position, with their necks facing downwards, so that the sediment is transferred to the top of the bottle. Specialised workers rotate them slightly almost every day for 3-4 weeks, so that any residues from fermentation are gathered on the neck of the bottle. This process is very expensive as it is hard, time consuming and personnel is required. Today it is possible to do this electronically, through the control of a computer, since bottles are placed on special metal frames, on which the desired inclination may be selected each time. (Konstantinou G. 2009).

To remove the sediment, the bottles neck is immersed as the bottles are placed upside down in a cooling liquid at -20 oC. The sediment becomes solid forming an ice cube on the top of each bottle, which are then opened carefully and the sediment is pushed out of the wine by the pressure of carbonate. During this stage a small amount of wine is lost, which is then filled just before final bottling. (Konstantinou G. 2009).

The full filling is carried out by adding a special liqueur that balances the wines taste, compensating for its strong acidity. Usually the liqueur used to fill the bottles is produced by old champagne and sugar, but the recipe is the secret of each wine maker. (Konstantinou G. 2009).

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The filling liqueur gives the final taste of the wine and its type in relation to its sugar content. So there are:

Brut Nature or Brut Zero: Almost zero sugar content (0-3 gr/L)

Extra brut: Sugar content up to 6 gr/L

Brut: Sugar content up to 15 gr/L

Extra-Sec: Sugar content between 15 - 20 gr/L

Sec: Semi-dry or semi-sweet champagne with a sugar content between 17 - 35 gr/L

Demi-Sec: Semi-dry champagne with a sugar content between 35 - 50 gr/L

Doux: Sweet champagne with sugar content above 50 gr/L

(Tzitzi M., Kyparissiou, P., 2008).

After the final filling, the permanent closure of bottles is carried out using a special cork stopper, as well as the placement of the clasp.

If tanks that are resistant to high pressures are selected instead of bottles, all the above stages are carried out much quicker, at a larger scale and lower cost.

Apart from the region of Champagne a considerable number of sparkling wines are produced, which do not bear the name Champagne but another one. In France sparkling wines are produced in many regions bearing the name Cremant, such as the region of the Loire with Cremant de Loire, and Alsaces Cremant d'Alsace. In Italy, prosecco and spumante are produced through a second fermentation that takes placed in closed tanks under pressure, not in the bottle. The regions of Valdobiabene and Conegliano of North Venice are production zones for Prosecco of protected destination of origin, with the grapes of prosecco variety as its raw material. Furthermore, the region of Asti, in the province of Piemont in particular, is also a production zone for wines of protected destination of origin with the variety called Moscato.

In Spain they firstly made their own sparkling wine in 1872. Their cava implies sparkling wines vinified following Champagnes method, and it is the second exported product after red wine. The region of northern-east Catalonia and some other communities, 159 in total throughout Spain are entitled to the Controlled denomination of origin CAVA for the sparkling wines produced there. Cavas wine varieties are the white ones Macabeo, Parellada, Pansa blanca, Chardonnay and the red Garnacha, Pinot noir. (Konstantinou G. 2009)

In Greece there are two regions producing sparkling PDO wines, Zitsa and Amyndeo. In the region of Epirus, the viticultural zone of Zitsa and the variety Debina are responsible for the production of unique dry and semi-dry white sparkling PDO wines, through the use of the classic method of fermentation within the bottle. The regions special climate enriches Debina with a unique freshness and the aromas of green apple, citrus fruits, pear and white blossoms. In sparkling wines, this original aroma of the variety is enriched and becomes sweeter with the aromas of brioche and biscuits. Wines with a bright lime-green colour and intense acidity highlighted by the presence of CO2.

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Sparkling wines have always been produced in the broader region of Zitsa. Following the methods of traditional white vinification, the region's residents were making wine from the local indigenous variety Debina. A characteristic of traditional vinification differentiating the final product and leading to the production of sparkling wines was the fact that the completion of the musts fermentation was achieved in two phases, since it was stopped during winter due to the cold weather. In the beginning of spring, the 2nd phase of fermentation would start, during which the containers remained sealed retaining the dioxide formed within them. The latter was gradually integrated with the wine. According to some reports, many times the containers or bottles used in domestic vinification would explode due to the pressure within them.

Many times local people used to make wine using smaller amounts of grapes from the varieties of Vlachiko and Bekiari together with Debina. The final product was, thus, getting a soft pink colour, which was desirable traditionally by local wine makers.

This tradition is still employed today in Zitsas wineries, which is improved and modernised to produce excellent sparkling and semi-sparkling wines.

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5. LEGAL FRAMEWORK ON WINE

6.1 Community Legislation

Council Reg (U) 203/2012 of 8 March 2012 amending Regulation (EC) No. 889/2008 laying down detailed rules for the implementation of Council Regulation (EC) No. 834/2007 of the Council as regards detailed rules on organic wine.

Council Reg (U) 314/2012 of 12 April 2012 regarding the amendment of Regulations (EC) No. 555/2008 and C No. 436/2009 as regards the documents accompanying consignments of wine products and wine sector registers to be kept.

Reg (U) 606/09 laying down certain detailed rules for implementing Council Regulation (EC) No. 479/2008 as regards the categories of grapevine products, oenological practices and the applicable restrictions.

Reg (U) 607/09 laying down certain detailed rules for the implementation of Council Regulation 479/08 as regards protected designations of origin and geographical indications, traditional terms, labelling and presentation of certain wine sector products.

Reg (U) 702/09 amending & correcting Reg. (EC) No. 555/08 laying down detailed rules for implementing Council Regulation (EC) No 479/08 on the common organisation of the market in wine as regards support programmes, trade with third countries, production potential and on controls in the wine sector.

Council Reg (U) 491/09 of 25 May 2009 amending Regulation (EC) No. 1234/07 establishing a common organisation of agricultural markets & on specific provisions for certain agricultural products (single CMO Regulation).

Council Reg (U) 436/09 of 26 May 2009 laying down detailed rules for the application of Council Regulation (EC) No. 479/08 as regards the vineyard register, compulsory declarations and the gathering of information to monitor the wine market, the documents accompanying consignments of wine products & the wine sector registers to be kept.

Council Reg (U) 479/08 on the common organisation of wine market, amending Reg. (C) No.1493/99, (C) No. 1782/03, (C) No. 1290/05, (C) No. 3/08 & repealing reg. (EC) No. 2392/86 & (C) No. 1493/99.

Reg (U) 555/08 laying down detailed rules for implementing Council reg. (EC) No 479/08 on the common organisation of the market in wine as regards support programmes, trade with third countries, production potential and on controls in the wine sector.

Council Reg (U) 423/08 laying down certain detailed rules for implementing Council Reg. (EC) No. 1493/99 & establishing a Community code of oenological practices & processes.

Council Reg (U) 1601/91 laying down general rules on the definition, description and presentation of aromatized wines, aromatized wine-based drinks and aromatized wine-product cocktails.

Council Reg (U) 884/01 laying down detailed rules of application concerning the documents accompanying the carriage of wine products and the records to be kept in the wine sector.

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Council Reg. (C) 753/02 laying down certain rules for applying Council Regulation (EC) 1493/99 as regards the description, designation, presentation & protection of certain wine sector products.

Council Reg (U) 1282/01 laying down detailed rules for the application of Council Regulation (EEC) No. 1493/99 as regards the gathering of information to identify wine products & to monitor the wine market & amending Reg. (EC) No. 1623/00.

Council Reg (U) 1607/00 laying down detailed rules for implementing Regulation (EC) No. 1493/99 on the common organisation of the market in wine, in particular the Title relating to quality wine produced in specified regions.

Council Reg (U) 2676/90 determining Community methods for the analysis of wines

Consolidated Text of Regulations

Reg (U) 1234/2007 of 22 October 2007 establishing a common organisation of agricultural markets and on specific provisions for certain agricultural products (Single CMO Regulation).

Council Reg (U) 555/2008 of 27 June 2008 laying down detailed rules for the implementation of Council Regulation (EC) No. 479/2008 on the common organisation of the market in wine as regards support programmes, trade with third countries, production potential & on controls in the wine sector.

Council Reg (U) 607/2009 of 14 July 2009 laying down detailed rules for the implementation of Council Regulation (EC) No. 479/2008 as regards protected designations of origin and geographical indications, traditional terms, labelling and presentation of certain wine sector products.

Council Reg (U) 606/2009 of 10 July 2009 laying down certain details for the implementation of Council Regulation (EC) No. 479/2008 as regards the categories of grapevine products, oenological practices and the applicable restrictions.

Council Reg (U) 436/2009 of 26 May 2009 laying down the details for the implementation of Council Regulation (EC) No. 479/2008 as regards the vineyard register, compulsory declarations & the gathering of information to monitor the wine market, the documents accompanying consignments of wine products and the wine sector registers to be kept.

Directives

Directive 45/2007 of the European Parliament and of the Council laying down rules on nominal quantities for pre-packed products, repealing Council Directives 75/106/EEC and 80/232/EEC, and amending Council Directive 76/211/EEC.

Directive 13/2000/C of the European Parliament and of the Council on the approximation of the laws of the Member States relating to the labelling, presentation and advertising of foodstuffs.

6.2 National Legislation

Controls in the wine sector

M.D. 388052/08.08.2001 G.G. 1089/21.08.2001 Implementation of Council Reg. (EC) 2729/00 laying down detailed rules of application concerning the controls in the wine sector.

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Monitoring the Wine market

M.D. 398581 27.09.2001 G.G. 1293/8.10.2001. Specification of detailed implementation rules as regards the gathering of information to identify wine products & to monitor the wine market & amending Reg. (EC) No. 1623/2000.

Test Strips

R.D. 423 G.G. 136/19.6.1975. On the recognition of the wines' designations of origin J.M.D. 242059/1445/28.04.1975 G.G. 505/19.5.1975. On the strips for testing wine of

designated origin.

Accompanying documents

G.G.1372/8.9.2004 Determination of necessary additional measures for the implementation of Council Reg. (C) 884/2001 concerning the documents accompanying the carriage of wine products and the records to be kept in the wine sector.

G.G. 1571/14.11.2005 Amendment of Joint Ministerial Decision No. 285870//1.9.2001 (G.G. 1372//9.9.2004) on the necessary additional measures for the implementation of Council Reg. (C) 884/2001 concerning the documents accompanying the carriage of wine products and the records to be kept in the wine sector.

Indications

G.G. 179/19.2.2002 Approval of traditional indications for wines. Amendment of Ministerial Decision 213850/1572/11.2.1972 on Designation of Origin of Superior Quality (A.O.Q.S.) wines

G.G. 1609/12.8.2008 M.D. 320080/28.7.2008. Amendment of Ministerial Decision No. 235309 /7.2.2002 Approval of traditional indications for wines

G.G. 818/15.6.2005 Determination of maturation, aging and distribution for consumption times of wines of Designation of Origin of Superior Quality, Local wines, as well as the indications included in their labelling regarding the production and preparation methods.

G.G. 512/22.9.1987 J.M.D. 352347/6670/1.9.1987. Laying down the general rules for the use of the indication Cava to describe table wines

G.G. 584/23.8.1988 J.M.D. 326182/6268/27.7.1988. Laying down the general rules for the use of the indication RESERVE and GRANDE RESERVE as descriptive terms of wines of designation of origin.

G.G. 875/28.6.2005 J.M.D. 280580/21.06.2005. Amendment of Joint Ministerial Decision No. 326182/6268/1988 Laying down the general rules for the use of the indication RESERVE and GRANDE RESERVE as descriptive terms of wines of designation of origin, as well as Joint Ministerial Decision No. 352347/6670/1987 Laying down the general rules for the use of the indication Cava to describe table wines

G.G. 420/20.4.1999 Determination of prerequisites regarding the use of the indication name of wine growing holding or group of wine growing holdings on Greek wines labels.

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Oenological Laboratories

Circular 4619/99242/25.09.12 Application of Law 3919/2011 The Principle of professional freedom, eliminating unjustified restrictions on access and pursuit of professions(G. G. 32 A), as amended by Article 4 par. 16 of Law 4038/2012 (G. G. 14). According to Model of the Circular, among the documentation referred to in point 3 a degree in oenology is required, according to par. 10 of art.9 of L.D. 243/1969 (G.G. 144) as amended by art. 4 of Law 1697/1987 (G. G. 57).

G.G. 144'/25.07.1969 L.D. 243 On the improvement and protection of wine production.

G.G. 217'/15.10.1970 ..641 On the establishment and operation of oenological laboratories.

G.G. 230/31.08.1976 L.427 Licensing of oenological laboratories (article 7)

G.G. 119/08.09.1983 P.D. 332 Delegation of responsibilities from the Min. of Agriculture to the Prefects

G.G. 57/28.04.1987 L.1697 Definition of Oenologists (article 4)

G.G. 32/02.03.2011 L.3919 Principle of professional freedom

Enrichment

J.M.D. 331058 G.G. 2001/26.09.2008 Defining modalities for the specific support measure use of grape must to increase the natural alcoholic strength by volume of certain wine products

M.D. 331083/02.10.2008 Increase the natural alcoholic strength by volume of fresh grapes, grape must, partly fermented grape must, new wine in the stage of fermentation and wine for wine period 2008-2009.

M.D. 4716/101137/01.10.2012 Increase the natural alcoholic strength by volume of fresh grapes, grape must, partly fermented grape must, new wine in the stage of fermentation and wine for wine period 2012-2013.

Community database E-Bacchus on Wines

E-Bacchus includes:

Protected Designations of Origin and Protected Geographical Indications of the EU in accordance with Council Regulation (EC) No 1234/2007.

Non-EU countries' geographical indications and names of origin protected in the EU in accordance with bilateral agreements on trade in wine concluded between the EU and the non-EU countries' concerned.

Traditional indications protected in the EU.

Statistical data.

Source: Ministry of Rural Development and Food

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6. SPIRITS

Distillation is the separation process that is accomplished by the vaporization of a liquid and the collection of the steam, which is usually condensed into liquid. The distillation can be used to separate liquids of solid components of a system, but more often it is used to separate components of liquid mixtures (Asimiadis Man. 2002).

The initiation of the use of a pot still for the process of distillation is not known. According to bibliographical sources, the pot still was already used for the distillation of rose water in Mesopotamia in the 4th millennium BC (Salle et Salle, 1982), but there is no sufficient evidence to confirm this. Without evidence that they are the same discoveries, during the archaeological excavations of Tepe Gawra (20 km east of Mosul in northern Iraq today) clay containers holding 37 litres were found, similar to small pot stills. Discoveries, dating from the Neolithic period (3500 BC) and possibly associated with distillation efforts (Soufleros, H., Rodovitis, B. 2004).

In our country, the edge of the Mycenaean civilization in the 16th century BC onwards and the remarkable achievements of the Greeks of that time contributed to the attribution of the pot stills invention to them. Furthermore, it seems that in ancient Egypt the use of the pot still was very widespread in the 13th century BC (Salle et Salle, 1982). Although many people consider that distillation was introduced by the Arabs, Alexandrias chemists seem aware of the pot stills long before the conquest of the Arabs. The technique of distillation was not known for the production of alcoholic beverages; it was known for the production of drugs, mainly, as well as cosmetics used for the embellishment of women. As far as Greece is concerned, Hesiod mentions the use of still pots (7th century BC), Hippocrates (5 century BC) and Aristotle (4th century BC) (Soufleros, H., Rodovitis, B. 2004).

Another fact further strengthening the view that pot still was invented by the Greeks, not the Arabs, is the etymology of the term. The word alambic used by the French, as well as the almost identical word alembic used by the English come from the Greek word (ambix), after being changed to a more Arabic word through the addition of the article al ( al ambic alembic). The ancient Greek word indicates a type of pot with a wide round base ending in a narrow neck (Soufleros, H., Rodovitis, B. 2004).

The earliest written reference to the distillation of wine was found in an alchemical manuscript of the 12th century A.D, known as mappa clavicula, while Arnau de Villanova, born in Madrid in the 14th century, was the first alchemist who concocted almost pure alcohol (Manoudis N. 2011).

7.1 Tsipouro and Grape Spirits

The spirit from the grape marc, which is known with the name tsipouro, is a traditional Greek product. Its method of preparation, experience and education required or arising from it survived in time and were spread by tradition exclusively, from mouth to mouth and from the grandfather to grandson, since written texts about this are only rarely found (Soufleros, H., Rodovitis, B. 2004).

Tsipouro and grape spirit are two wine products with significant differences among them, both in terms of production method and in terms of their organoleptic characteristics. Grape spirit is produced following the fermentation and distillation of the entire grape mash, which results from the pressing of the berries and the destemming of the berries. According to Reg. (.C.) 1576/1989 as well as national legislation (L. 2969/2001), grape spirit belongs to the category of fruit spirits.

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Its production is very widespread in Epirus and it is often confused with the production of tsipouro. Traditionally, in the context of spatial distillation, small two-day distillers in Epirus do not separate the wine from the wine mash most of the times, either because they do not have presses, either because they believe that the product is of higher quality, or for various other reasons. Therefore the raw material of the distillation contains more than 40% of the wine, which could have been omitted.

For the production of the spirit, after the grapes get to the desired level of technological ripening without being infected, they are harvested and transported to the winery as soon as possible. Following this, they are lightly pressed, destemmed and led to fermentation.

To avoid oxidation and given the fact that sulphur dioxide is not used (it is transferred to the spirit concentrated, downgrading its quality), alcoholic fermentation should start as soon as possible. Avoiding oxidation enhances the balance of the grapes aromatic compounds (Soufleros, H., Rodovitis, B. 2004). When alcoholic fermentation is over, distillation should start immediately to produce a high quality spirit. Otherwise, the preservation of the grape mash until the beginning of distillation should be a constant concern of the distiller.

Following this, grape mash is transferred to the pot still for distillation. At the beginning of distillation it is important to avoid overheating of the raw material, as it leads to the damage of its aromatic constituents (Soufleros, H., Rodovitis, B. 2004). Sharp rise in temperature at this stage leads to opposite results. Distillation process is carried out as described below for the distillation of tsipouro same precautions, removal of heads and tails, re-distillation, etc.

The produced product should be placed in stainless tanks or glass containers for six months approximately, while it is being frequently diluted with distilled or rain water, until the desired alcoholic strength is achieved. According to the legislation, Reg. (EC) 1576/1989, the minimum alcoholic strength for fruit spirits is 37.5% vol. while usually it is between 40% vol. and 42% vol.

Then the spirit is cooled at -10 to -15 oC for at least 12-15 hours, and filtered at the same temperature (Soufleros, H., Rodovitis, B. 2004)

The produced spirit has an excellent aromatic character, which is due to and formed by the grapes terpene compounds, the primary aroma, as well as the esters formed during alcoholic fermentation, the secondary aroma. These aromatic constituents may be preserved almost unchanged for a long time, which is due to the rich in alcohol environment, as well as to the absence of oxidative catalysts within the spirit. According to certain research studies (Paunovic, 1991), the grape spirits ageing and maturation in oak barrels improve its quality while giving its special organoleptic characteristics (Soufleros, H., Rodovitis, B. 2004).

The research outcomes of Sensidoni et al. (1992), suggest that, unlike grappa (Italian name for tsipouro), grape spirit is almost free from undesirable constituents, methanol in particular. This is due to the small percentage of the solid part (15%) of the total grape mash, while in the case of grape marc spirit (tsipouro) the corresponding percentage is 50-60% (Soufleros, H., Rodovitis, B. 2004).

As far as the constituents of the primary aroma (varietal aroma) are concerned, those of the grape spirit seem to be better than those of tsipouro in terms of terpene compounds quality, but with less aromatic characteristics (Soufleros, H., Rodovitis, B. 2004).

Therefore, it is evident that grape spirit and tsipouro are two distinct wine products, each of which has its own special characteristics. Moreover, according to the legislation they belong to two different categories of alcoholic beverages.

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7.1.1 Traditional Production of Tsipouro

Tsipouro is the product resulting from the distillation of wine marc, i.e. after the extraction of wine from the wine mash. As already mentioned, there is still some wine in the grape marc, so if not transferred to the wine press for its extraction, the process of fermentation is completed, forming the raw material for tsipouros distillation and production.

According to the relevant legislation, traditional (domestic) distillation is defined as distillation of low capacity performed by wine growers, who have a particular type of pot stills with a capacity of up to 130 litres.

The distillation period for each municipal district lasts for a two-month period only, which is determined by the head of the relevant customs district (L. 2969/2001). Within this two-month period, the relevant rights for domestic distillation are granted to wine producers, which usually last 48 hours for each of them. This explains the terms two-day licences and two-day distillers. The total number of 48 hours that may be taken by each wine grower depends on the vineyard area he owns and cannot exceed 4. For this type of distillation there is a special taxation scheme for the final product, while a special fee is also paid for granting the right to distil.

Therefore, when the ripening and harvest of grapes is complete, they are transferred to the place for vinification houses basements. All stages of white and red vinification processes that have already been discussed are followed respectively, up until the separation of the wine from the grape marc. When grape marc is not pressed, there is some wine left and its fermentation is completed together with the grape marc. This quantity of wine is usually 30 to 40% by weight. When alcoholic fermentation is over, grape marc is hermetically sealed in their tanks and may be preserved for 2 to 4 months, depending on their health status (Soufleros, H., Rodovitis, B. 2004).

When the grape mash is for distillation, sulphitation is avoided both in white and in red vinification, since sulphur dioxide is transmitted to the spirit due to its volatility (Soufleros, H., Rodovitis, B. 2004).

Wine marc is placed in the cauldron of the pot still, in which water is added, corresponding to 25-30% of the total volume if they do not contain similar amount of wine. In addition to this, the head and tail from any previous distillation are added.

The cauldron is hermetically sealed with a domed lid, the duct connecting the lid to the condenser called loulas is placed and then boiling starts gradually. While boiling is taking

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place, the formation of the first vapours starts, which are transferred to the condenser through the duct (loulas), where they are cooled, condensed and flow out as spirit. The boiling point of alcohol is 78.5 C, while the boiling point of water is 100 C. Consequently, the vapor above the boiling mixture contains initially a higher percentage of alcohol.(Manoudis N. 2011)

The initial quantity of the spirit is called head or protoraki (first tsipouro), the second one heart or body and the last one tail or aporaki. The first and last distillation fractions are gathered separately, being of lower quality, and they are added to the next cauldron for a second distillation. The separation of distillation fractions is done quantitatively based on the distillers experience. Therefore, only the heart is intended for human consumption, while some of the first tsipouro is collected and used as alcohol for therapeutic massaging, compresses, etc.

The end of distillation is determined by the alcohol content measurement of the spirit produced. This measurement is performed using an alcoholmeter, which is calibrated based on Cartier degrees, which are known as grada in Greek. This instrument is also used sometimes for the measurement of ethanol using Gay Lussac degrees or % by vol. As a result, according to the tradition distillation stops when the produced spirit reaches 17 degrees (grada) approximately.

The cauldron is emptied and carefully cleaned, and then it is ready for the next quantity of grape marc to be distilled. The duration of each distillation is approximately 2 hours and it depends on the alcoholic capacity of the grape marc and fire intensity.

The produced tsipouro, depending on its degrees, is either diluted with distilled water so that to regulate its alcohol content in levels allowed for consumption, either redistilled to give the double boiled tsipouro. According to the legislation, the minimum alcoholic content for tsipouro must be 37.5% vol.

Traditional alembics - pot stills with which distillation is performed have a capacity between 60 and 130 litres and they are made of copper. The pot still consists of the cauldron or boiler, the domed lid, the condenser and the duct connecting the lid to the condenser loulas. Traditionally heating was achieved using wood, while in recent years liquid gas is also used.

Copper as the raw material from which traditional alembics were manufactured, despite various experiments, has never been replaced. It is resistant to hammering and corrosion in various contexts, while its thermal conductivity is good. It is an important catalyst in various reactions and has a positive effect on the aroma of the product produced. It absorbs malodorous compounds (fatty acids, thiols, mercaptans) and forms soaps - insoluble compounds that bind to the alembic and are disposed when it is emptied and cleaned carefully. For this reason when distillation is carried out using glass or steel devices that do share the same properties with copper, the spirit's odour is bad (Soufleros, H., Rodovitis, B. 2004).

Special attention is required that no part of the boiler must be made of lead - junctions, corners or other components. Chemical lead compounds pass into tsipouro and chronic use of that can cause human central nervous system lesions. (N. Manoudis 2011).

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7.1.2 Modern methods for the production of tsipouro

The production of tsipouro by distilleries started around 1990, as a result of the relevant Greek legislation N.1802/1998, and the corresponding Community Reg. 1576/1989. Thus the so called tsipouro from distillery is produced.

Independently o

Study on local wine production processes in Epirus

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