Study of Indo-Portuguese silk bedspreads of 16th to 17th...

1

6/8/20076/8/2007 11

Study Study of Indo-Portuguese silk bedspreads of 16th to 17th century from the collections of MNAA and NMS

Teresa Pacheco PereiraTeresa Pacheco PereiraMNAAMNAA

Carmo Serrano Carmo Serrano E.A.N.E.A.N.

Crocus sativus L.

6/8/20076/8/2007 22

The Textile Collection of The Textile Collection of the the MuseuMuseu NacionalNacional de de Arte Arte AntigaAntiga

Indian embroideries for the Indian embroideries for the Portuguese market. End of 16th Portuguese market. End of 16th century / beginning of 17th century / beginning of 17th centurycentury

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MonochromeMonochrome quiltsquilts

The Justice of SolomonThe Justice of Solomon

3

The Pelican feeding its youngThe Pelican feeding its young

4

"D"Déécadas de Tito cadas de Tito LivioLivio" (" (ZaragozaZaragoza, , CociCoci, 1520). , 1520). Trasladadas por Trasladadas por frayfray Pedro de Pedro de lala VegaVega

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Scope of the Work

The global aim of this project was to identify The global aim of this project was to identify the original the original material used in the process of used in the process of ancient ancient Indo-Portuguese bedspread, bedspread, inin 16th 16th -- 18th centuries,18th centuries, from the collections of MNAA and NMS to confirm an origin.

Despite extensively studied from the viewpoint of the history of the decorative arts, the Indo-Portuguese bedspreads have not been analyzed in detail as a material object until now.

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Indo-Portuguese bedspreads: CharacteristicsCharacteristics

PortuguesePortugueseCoat of armsCoat of armsFlowers motives Flowers motives Animals motives: parrots, peacocksAnimals motives: parrots, peacocksPopular influence and ArabPopular influence and Arab((ModejarModejar) )

IndianIndianWar Scenes War Scenes Hunting Scenes in early 17th century Hunting Scenes in early 17th century Portuguese Portuguese and and Oriental costumesOriental costumesFloral motives with central medallions aFloral motives with central medallions ainfluence on Islamic rugsinfluence on Islamic rugsVegetative and geometric ornamentationVegetative and geometric ornamentationMystic animals: dragons, exotic birds and Mystic animals: dragons, exotic birds and hybrids..hybrids..MNAA N. 710

MNAA N. 710

MNAA N. 2232

MNAA N. 4575MNAA N. 4582

NMS N. 391

NMS N.392

NMS N. 159

NMS N. 390

MNAA N. 710

How many bedspreads?How many bedspreads?13 Indian bedspreads 1613 Indian bedspreads 16thth--1818thth -- MNAAMNAA

-- 3 polychromatic 3 polychromatic 1 1 -- 1616thth/17/17thth

2 2 –– 1818thth

-- 3 3 bichromaticbichromatic: : Yellow and blue Yellow and blue -- 1616thth/17/17thth

Yellow and red Yellow and red -- 1717thth

Red and blue Red and blue -- 1616thth/17/17thth

- 7 monocromatic6 yellow:166 yellow:16thth/17/17thth

1 red 171 red 17thth

3 Portuguese bedspreads 173 Portuguese bedspreads 17thth/18/18th th –– MNAAMNAA-- 3 polychromatic3 polychromatic

4 Indo4 Indo--Portuguese bedspreads 18Portuguese bedspreads 18th th -- NMSNMS-- 4 polychromatic4 polychromatic

Yellow blue MNAA 3750

Yellow red MNAA 112

Yellow MNAA 4583

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Questions to solveQuestions to solve

-- Where were these bedspreads dyed? Where were these bedspreads dyed? Portugal or India?Portugal or India?

-- Are the Indians yellow bedspreads Are the Indians yellow bedspreads dyed?dyed?

MNAA N. 4582

MNAA N. 4583

Art Historians and curators commonly believed that the yellow color was obtained without dyeing, i.e., it was thecolor of the natural silk used.

NMS N. 390

N. 710 - 18th century

N. 2137 - 17th /18th century

N. 3465 - 18th century

Bombyx mori - silk

Identification of embroidery fibers by optical

microscopic: Portuguese bedspreads

Whole amount

Cross section

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N.3413N.3413--16th/17th century

N.3692N.369216th/17th century

N.3750 N.3750 16th/17th century

N.4582 N.4582 17th century



Tussah silk

Cotton

Cross sections

N.2281N.228117th century

Identification of embroidery fibers by

optical microscopic: Indians bedspreads

Tussah silk

Tussah silk

Tussah silk

Tussah silk Tussah silk

Tussah silk

Cotton

Whole mount

N. 2232 N. 2232 18th century

Bombyx mori silk

Cross-sections

N. 112 N. 112 -- 17th century

N. 1926 N. 1926 -- 18th century

N. 2226 N. 2226 17th century

N. 4575 N. 4575 -- 116th/17th centuryN. 4583 N. 4583 1717th/18th century

Identification of embroidery fibers by

optical microscopic: Indians bedspreads

Whole mount

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Portuguese bedspreadsPortuguese bedspreads(17th/18th century) (17th/18th century) BombyxBombyx morimori silksilk

MNAA NMSN. 710 N. 390 N. 2137 N. 391 N. 3465 N. 392

Indian bedspreads M.N.A.A. (16th/17th century)

Cotton Tussah silk Bombyx mori silkN. 3413 N.2237 N. 112 (17th)

N.2281 (17th) N. 2226 (17th)N.3750 N. 4575N.3692 N. 4583 N. 4581N. 4582 (17th)

Indian bedspreads (18th century)Bombyx mori silk

N. 1926N. 2232N. 159 (NMS)

Conclusions: Conclusions: Identification of embroidery fibers

The Tussah silk and the cotton identified in the embroidery fibers on the bedspreads means they were made in India..

The Bombyx mori silk identified in the embroidery fibers on the bedspreads means that we can’t attributing an origin (India or Portugal), this type of silk exist in both countries at that time

Conclusions: Conclusions: Identification of embroidery fibers

Distribution of embroidery fibers analysed in

Indian bedspreads in different centuries

2

4

1

2

2

3

0%

25%

50%

75%

100%

Beds

prea

ds a

naly

sed

Séc. XVI/XVII Séc. XVII Séc. XVIII

Bombyx mory Tussah Algodão

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Portuguese dyesPortuguese dyes

kermesickermesic acid, acid, flavokermesicflavokermesic acidacidKermesKermes ilicisilicis, Coccus , Coccus ilicisilicisL.L.

KermesKermes

FisetinFisetin, , fustinfustin e e sulfuretinsulfuretinCotinusCotinus coggygriacoggygria ScopScop. .

RhusRhus cotinuscotinus L.L.

Young FusticYoung Fustic

Alizarin, Alizarin, PurpurinPurpurin, , PseudopurpurinPseudopurpurin, , xanthopurpurinxanthopurpurin

RubiaRubia tinctoriumtinctorium L.L.Madder*Madder*

CarminicCarminic acid, traces of acid, traces of kermesickermesic acid, acid, flavokermesicflavokermesic acid and unknown acid and unknown dcIIdcII

DatylopiusDatylopius coccuscoccus (O. (O. Costa)Costa)

Cochineal*Cochineal*

Brazilin, Brazilin, BrazileinBrazileinCaesalpiniaCaesalpinia brasiliensisbrasiliensis L.L.BrazilwoodBrazilwood

IndigotinIndigotin, , IndirubinIndirubinIsactisIsactis tinctoriatinctoria L.L.WoadWoad

Tannin Tannin gallicgallic, , myricetolmyricetolRhusRhus coriariacoriaria L.L.SumacSumac

LuteolinLuteolin, , ApigeninApigeninReseda Reseda luteolaluteola L.L.WeldWeld

Major component dyeMajor component dyeSourceSourceCommon nameCommon name

Published in Published in ““RegimentoRegimento dada FabricaFabrica dos dos PanosPanos de Portugal, de Portugal, OrdenadoOrdenadono anno de 1690no anno de 1690”” LisboaLisboa..

*Published in *Published in ““VITERBO, S. VITERBO, S. -- Historia da tinturaria em Portugal, Lisboa, Historia da tinturaria em Portugal, Lisboa, TypografiaTypografia da Academia Real das da Academia Real das ScienciasSciencias, 1902., 1902.

Indian dyes Indian dyes –– Red and blueRed and blue

Since antiquitySince antiquityAlizarin, Alizarin, PurpurinPurpurin, , PseudopurpurinPseudopurpurin, , xanthopurpurinxanthopurpurin

RubiaRubia tinctoriumtinctorium L.L.MadderMadder

Since antiquitySince antiquitySantalinSantalin A, BA, BPterocarpusPterocarpus santalinussantalinus L.L.Red sandalwoodRed sandalwood

Since antiquitySince antiquityAlizarinAlizarinOldenlandiaOldenlandia umbellataumbellata L.L.ChayChay rootroot

IndigotinIndigotin

LaccaicLaccaic acid A, B, C, D, Eacid A, B, C, D, ED=D=FlavokermesicFlavokermesic acidacid

Brazilin, Brazilin, BrazileinBrazilein

MonrindoneMonrindone, , SoranjidiolSoranjidiol

MunjistinMunjistin, , purpurinpurpurin, alizarin, , alizarin, pseudopurpurinpseudopurpurin

PhyscionPhyscion, , ventilagineventilagine

LawsoneLawsone

CarthaminCarthamin

NycanthinNycanthin and and quercetinquercetin

RottlerinRottlerin

Major component dyeMajor component dye

??MallotusMallotus philipinensisphilipinensis MuellMuellKamalaKamala

Since antiquitySince antiquityCaesalpiniaCaesalpinia sappansappan L.L.SappanSappan woodwood

IndigoferaIndigofera tinctoriatinctoria L.L.IndigoIndigo

Since antiquity Since antiquity KerriaKerria LaccaLacca (Kerr)(Kerr)Lac dyeLac dye

Since antiquitySince antiquityMorindaMorinda citrifoliacitrifolia L.L.SuranjiSuranji

Since antiquitySince antiquity

??

??

??


??

DateDate

RubiaRubia cordifoliacordifolia L.L.MunjeetMunjeet

ArnebiaArnebia nobilisnobilis RachingarRachingarRatanjotRatanjot

VentilagoVentilago madraspatanamadraspatanaGaertinGaertin..

VentilagoVentilago

LawsoniaLawsonia albaalba Lam.Lam.HennaHenna

CarthamusCarthamus tinctoriustinctorius L.L.Safflower redSafflower red

CedrelaCedrela toonatoona RoxRox..ToonToon

SourceSourceCommon nameCommon name

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Indian dyes Indian dyes –– YellowYellow

??MorinMorinArtocarpus integrifolia Artocarpus integrifolia L.L.Jack woodJack wood

Constitution unknownConstitution unknown

EllagicEllagic acidacid

CatechinCatechinCatechinCatechin

Constitution unknownConstitution unknown

Morin, Morin, KampherolKampherol, , maclurinmaclurin

ButinButin

CarthamoneCarthamone

CrocetinCrocetin

CurcuminCurcumin,,DemethoxycurcuminDemethoxycurcumin

Major component dyeMajor component dye

??Acacia catechu Acacia catechu wild.wild.Bengal catechuBengal catechu

??TerminaliaTerminalia chebulachebulaRetz.Retz.

MyrobalansMyrobalans

??Areca catechu Areca catechu L.L.Bombay catechuBombay catechu

??Acacia Acacia arabicaarabica Wild.Wild.Babul barkBabul bark

??PunicaPunica granatumgranatum L.L.PomogranatePomogranate


??




DatesDates

Chlorophora tinctoria L.Chlorophora tinctoria L.FusticFustic

ButeaButea frondosafrondosa RoxbRoxb..PalasPalas

CarthamusCarthamus tinctoriustinctorius L.L.Safflower yellowSafflower yellow

Crocus Crocus sativussativus L.L.SaffronSaffron

Curcuma Curcuma longalonga L.L.TurmericTurmeric

SourceSourceCommon nameCommon name

Publication in Publication in Studies in ConservationStudies in Conservation 33 (1988) 133 (1988) 1--88VARADARAJAN, L VARADARAJAN, L -- Arboreal Sources for Traditional Red Colour Brazil and India, Arboreal Sources for Traditional Red Colour Brazil and India, personal notes.personal notes.

Identification of Dyes by HPLC-UV-VIS: Yarn ExtractionYarn Extraction

CrocetinCrocetin, the colored component from saffron, hydrolyzes in 15 min , the colored component from saffron, hydrolyzes in 15 min in acid extraction. Tin acid extraction. The extraction of saffron from silk, following the commonly employed procedures is not the best choice.

CrocetinCrocetin

EDTA/DMF solution can be applied to extract EDTA/DMF solution can be applied to extract crocetincrocetin from the from the saffron yarn dyed samples without degradation, so it is saffron yarn dyed samples without degradation, so it is an alternative method in which concerns silk dyed with saffron.

The HPLC-UV-VIS data, indicate that saffron (Crocus sativus L.) can’t be identified after acid extraction.

15

Analysis of the accelerated aged dyed saffron Analysis of the accelerated aged dyed saffron silk samplessilk samplesEDTA/DMF solution can be applied to extract EDTA/DMF solution can be applied to extract crocetincrocetin from the from the saffron (saffron (Crocus Crocus sativussativus L.) yarn dyed samples aL.) yarn dyed samples after artificial ageing?

3 days; 6 days; 9 days; 12 3 days; 6 days; 9 days; 12 daysdays

BombyxBombyx morimori silk mordant silk mordant -- Al (4)Al (4)


BombyxBombyx morimori silk without silk without mordents (4)mordents (4)


Tussah silk mordant Tussah silk mordant -- Al (4)Al (4)


Tussah silk without mordents (4)Tussah silk without mordents (4)

Days of artificial agingDays of artificial agingSilk samples dyed saffronSilk samples dyed saffron

Saffron

AU

0.000

0.002

0.004

0.006

nm300.00 400.00 500.00 600.00 700.00

260.2326.9

436.2460.5

528.7553.1

614.3629.1

680.6

715.0747.0

AU

0.000

0.002

0.004

0.006

0.008

0.010

0.012

300.00 400.00 500.00 600.00 700.00

255.0

350.0

451.9493.1522.2536.8

558.7590.4

617.2634.3

651.4666.1

680.8

700.4715.0

739.5

Results: Saffron dyed samples without Results: Saffron dyed samples without agedaged

AU

-0.002

0.000

0.002

0.004

0.006

Minutes2.00 4.00 6.00 8.00 10.00 12.00 14.00 16.00 18.00 20.00 22.00 24.00 26.00 28.00 30.00

1.32

21.

433

1.57

51.

710

14.6

4015

.867

16.4

0317

.044

18.4

8019

.971

21.3

6522

.225

23.8

4223

.987

24.5

3426

.019

29.1

74

Acafrao

hidrolise acida

EDTA/DMF extraction

CrocetinTr=22,2 min

AU

0.000

0.002

0.004

0.006

0.008

0.010

0.012

0.014

0.016

0.018

Minutes2.00 4.00 6.00 8.00 10.00 12.00 14.00 16.00 18.00 20.00 22.00 24.00 26.00 28.00 30.00

2.08

02.

569

2.96

5

13.9

99

16.2

48 20.5

04

24.3

71

AU

0.0000

0.0005

0.0010

0.0015

0.0020

0.0025

nm300.00 400.00 500.00 600.00 700.00

262.6331.7

441.1467.8

562.9592.3607.0634.0651.2653.6683.1697.8720.0734.7

262.6326.9

441.1

467.8

555.6589.8 609.4

626.6 641.3700.3715.0747.0

Tr=14,6 min e

Tr=16,4min

crocins

LuteolinTr=18,5min

Acid extraction 245 nm

428 nm

Bombyx mori silk – dyed with saffron

Bombyx mori silk – dyed with saffron

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Results: Saffron dyed samples with Results: Saffron dyed samples with accelerated agingaccelerated aging

AU

-0.001

0.000

0.001

0.002

0.003

0.004

0.005

0.006

0.007

0.008

Minutes2.00 4.00 6.00 8.00 10.00 12.00 14.00 16.00 18.00 20.00 22.00 24.00 26.00 28.00 30.0

14.7

17

16.4

47

19.9

91

21.3

90 22.2

48

23.9

9224

.555

29.1

50

Aging 6 days

AU

-0.001

0.000

0.001

0.002

0.003

0.004

0.005

0.006

0.007

0.008

0.009

Minutes2.00 4.00 6.00 8.00 10.00 12.00 14.00 16.00 18.00 20.00 22.00 24.00 26.00 28.00 30.00

14.6

65

16.4

13

22.2

37

Aging 9 days

AU

0.000

0.001

0.002

0.003

0.004

0.005

0.006

Minutes2.00 4.00 6.00 8.00 10.00 12.00 14.00 16.00 18.00 20.00 22.00 24.00 26.00 28.00 30.00

14.6

81

16.4

27

18.5

14

19.9

78

21.3

9922

.251

23.9

9824

.559

29.1

57

Aging 3 days

AU

-0.001

0.000

0.001

0.002

0.003

0.004

0.005

0.006

Minutes2.00 4.00 6.00 8.00 10.00 12.00 14.00 16.00 18.00 20.00 22.00 24.00 26.00 28.00 30.0

14.6

45

16.4

28

22.2

39

24.0

59

Aging 11,5 days

AU

-0.00010

-0.00005

0.00000

0.00005

0.00010

0.00015

nm300.00 400.00 500.00 600.00 700.00

262.6319.7350.8

438.7455.6

504.3538.5

558.0 621.7

646.2

663.4

702.7727.3

Crocetin Tr=22,3 min

AU

0.0000

0.0005

0.0010

0.0015

nm300.00 400.00 500.00 600.00 700.00

260.2317.3

436.2458.1

540.9565.4

602.1636.4673.3

707.7727.3

744.5

AU

-0.0001

0.0000

0.0001

0.0002

nm300.00 400.00 500.00 600.00 700.00

264.9

310.2341.3

436.2460.5

499.4511.6

560.5

663.4

678.2717.5744.5

AU

0.0000

0.0002

0.0004

0.0006

nm300.00 400.00 500.00 600.00 700.00

255.5326.9

433.8458.1

518.9550.7582.5619.3

651.2653.6668.3

685.5705.2722.4747.0

428 nm 428 nm

428 nm 428 nm

Crocetin Tr=22,3 min

Crocetin

Tr=22,3 min

Crocetin

Tr=22,3 min

EDTA/DMF extraction

AU

0.000

0.001

0.002

0.003

nm300.00 400.00 500.00 600.00 700.00

255.5

366.2385.4

397.5438.7462.9

528.7550.7

570.3592.3636.4

665.9

683.1715.0742.1

Results: Historical samplesResults: Historical samples

AU

-0.015

-0.010

-0.005

0.000

0.005

0.010

0.015

0.020

Minutes5.00 10.00 15.00 20.00 25.00 30.00

1.33

21.

613

2.10

82.

433 2.96

03.

460

4.08

04.

375

6.21

9

8.72

2

10.8

2311

.375

11.5

3111

.930

13.2

4314

.426

15.5

4215

.819

18.0

3718

.679

19.9

5120

.177

20.7

2421

.232

24.4

3324

.933

26.0

7526

.208

26.4

46

28.0

4528

.423

28.8

30

Sample no. 4583

a 254 nm

EDTA/DMF extraction

AU

0.000

0.005

0.010

0.015

0.020

0.025

nm300.00 400.00 500.00 600.00 700.00

257.8 350.8419.3

436.2

465.4

484.8526.3540.9555.6

619.3641.3680.6705.2727.3744.5255.5 348.4

438.7462.9

504.3526.3562.9

584.9 599.6629.1643.8665.9683.1700.3727.3

255.5350.8

509.2545.8

641.3705.2744.5

Tr=4,7min Tr=14,4 min, Tr=15,8min

Tr=18,7min e Tr=21,3 min

Luteolin AU

0.000

0.002

0.004

0.006

nm300.00 400.00 500.00 600.00 700.00

267.3341.3

462.9499.4 548.2597.2

631.5646.2705.2742.1

269.7346.0

462.9482.4506.7

543.4560.5584.9626.6

651.2653.6678.2705.2

269.7341.3

460.5475.1497.0514.1558.0599.6614.3

634.0651.2673.3705.2744.5

267.3343.7

460.5

475.1

497.0516.5533.6 553.1609.4

634.0651.2653.6705.2732.2

267.3338.9

458.1480.0518.9550.7567.8594.7611.9

636.4651.2653.6668.3702.7

269.7343.7

465.4494.6514.1

533.6575.1594.7

634.0

668.3705.2744.5

269.7341.3

436.2453.2 470.2

526.3

567.8619.3641.3

670.8690.5705.2722.4739.6

Tr=4,3min Tr=6,3min, Tr=10,8min,Tr=11,5min e Tr=11,9 min,Tr=13,2min Tr=18,0 min

Apigenin

Tr=2,9 min 4-hba methyl ester

silk bombyx mori

17

Comparison EDTA/DMF solution and Comparison EDTA/DMF solution and hydrolyze acidhydrolyze acid

ACID EXTRACTIONACID EXTRACTION

–– Method routinely used for 20 Method routinely used for 20 years for years for anthraquinoidanthraquinoid (red) (red) and and flavonoidflavonoid (yellow) dyes(yellow) dyes

–– Degradation Degradation produtsproduts for for flavonoidsflavonoids and and anthraquinoidanthraquinoidwell known well known

–– Process less efficient for Process less efficient for indigoidesindigoides which are more which are more hydrophobic but still allow the hydrophobic but still allow the identificationidentification

–– Destroys protein and Destroys protein and cellulosiccellulosicfibersfibers as well as some dyes: as well as some dyes: carotenoidescarotenoides, , antocyaninsantocyanins, , neoflavanoidneoflavanoid, and , and liquenliquen dyesdyes

EDTA/DMF EXTRACTIONEDTA/DMF EXTRACTION

–– Simultaneous extraction of Simultaneous extraction of several classes of several classes of compounds: compounds: anthraquinonsanthraquinons, , carotenoidscarotenoids, indigoids e , indigoids e flavonoidsflavonoids

–– Extraction of a high number Extraction of a high number of of carotenoidscarotenoids and and flavonoidsflavonoids

–– FiberFiber sufficiently intact for sufficiently intact for use in further examinations use in further examinations as well as some minority as well as some minority components.components.

N. 346518th century

N.2137 17th/18th century

17th /18th 18thN. 2137 – Weld + MadderMadder N. 710 - Weld

N.3465 - Weld + yellow dye

N. 2137 – Weld N. 710 - Weld + Young fusticN. 710 - Weld + + IndigotinIndigotin

Results: 17th/18th Portuguese bedspreads from Results: 17th/18th Portuguese bedspreads from MNAAMNAA

N. 710- 18th century

N. 710 – Safflower, CochinealCochinealand Cochinealand Cochineal + weld

N. 3465 - Safflower + + weld

N. 2137 -Weld + IndigotinMadderMadder+ indigotin

N. 710 - Weld + IndigotinN. 3465 – weld + indigotin

N. 710 and N.3465 - IndigotinN. 710 and N.3465 – Indigotin + elagitaninsN. 710 - Indigotin + weld

N.2137 N.2137 -- IndigotinIndigotin+ elagitanins

Yellows

Browns

Reds

Greens

Blues

18

N. 710- 18th century

Results: 18th IndoResults: 18th Indo--Portuguese bedspreads from NMSPortuguese bedspreads from NMS

NMS N. 391

NMS N.392

NMS N. 390

NMS N. 159

Yellows Browns

Reds

Greens

Blues

N. 159 – Turmeric

N. 390 – Weld + Brazilwood

N. 391 - Weld

N. 392 – Weld + Brazilwood

N. 390 – Weld and

Brazilwood

N. 159 - Kermes

N. 390 and N. 391 - Safflower + weld

N. 392 - Brazilwood

N. 391 - Brazilwood + weld

N. 159 - Cochineal + turmeric

N. 390 e N. 392 - Weld + indigotin

N. 390 - Weld + Madder+ indigotin

N. 390 e N.391 - Weld + indigo

N. 390 - Indigotin + Madder

N. 392 - Indigotin + elagitanins

Conclusions: Identification of dyes from Conclusions: Identification of dyes from Portuguese bedspreads of MNAAPortuguese bedspreads of MNAA and NMSand NMS

The data obtained in the bedspreads N. 710, N. 2137 and N. 3465 The data obtained in the bedspreads N. 710, N. 2137 and N. 3465 from MNAA and from MNAA and N. 390, N. 391 and N. 392 from NMS agreeN. 390, N. 391 and N. 392 from NMS agreess with the results published in with the results published in ““RegimentoRegimento dada FabricaFabrica dos dos PanosPanos de Portugalde Portugal”” OrdenadoOrdenado no anno de 1690no anno de 1690””LisboaLisboa::

Dyers after 1690 are not allowed to: Dyers after 1690 are not allowed to: Add Madder to WeldAdd Madder to WeldUse Use brazilwoodbrazilwood alonealone

Yellows• Weld, •Weldand/or Young fusticN. 710 (18th century) N. 390 (18th century)N. 2137 (17th/18/th century) N. 391 (18th century) N. 3465 (18th century) N. 392 (18th century)

Indicate that this bedspreads could be dyed in Portugal

• Turmeric N. 159 (18th century) (NMS)Indicate this bedspread could not be dyed in Portugal

• Weld, and MadderN. 2137 (17th/18th century)

• Weld, and BrazilwoodN. 390 (18th century)N. 392 (18th century)Indicate that this bedspreads weredyed before 1690

RedsReds•• CochinealCochinealN. 710 (18th century)N. 710 (18th century)•• BrazilwoodN. 390, N. 391 and N. 392 (18th century)N. 390, N. 391 and N. 392 (18th century)Indicate this bedspreads could be dyed Indicate this bedspreads could be dyed in Portugal after 16th centuryin Portugal after 16th century

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Reds

16th /17th 18th

N. 112 - Lac dye Lac dye N. 1926 N. 1926 -- Lac dye, cochineal, Lac dye, cochineal,

N. 3413 N. 3413 -- MadderMadder safflower, maddersafflower, madder

N. 4575 N. 4575 –– Lac dye N. 2232 Lac dye N. 2232 -- Lac dye, cochineal,Lac dye, cochineal,N. 4581 N. 4581 –– Lac dyeLac dye safflower, maddersafflower, madder

N. 159 N. 159 -- KermesKermes

MNAA N. 2232

Results: 16Results: 16thth --1818thth Indian bedspreads in acid Indian bedspreads in acid extractionextraction

Yellows

16th /17th 18thN.112 – Weld N. 1926 – Fustic

N. 2226 - Weld N. 2232 – Fustic

N. 2237 – Madder and weld

and luteolin

N. 2281-Degradation

products

N. 3692 – Madder

and luteolin

N. 3750–Degradation

products

N. 4582 – No dye

N. 4583 - Weld

Results: Results: Indian bedspreads in acid extraction and Indian bedspreads in acid extraction and EDTA/DMF solutionEDTA/DMF solution

MNAA N. 1926

Are the Indians yellow bedspreads dyed?Are the Indians yellow bedspreads dyed?Tussah silk Bombyx mori silk

N. 2237 and N. 3692 (16th/17th century) N. 2226 and N. 4583

Dyed with madder and luteolin (18th century)

N. 2281 (17th century) Dyed with weldDegradation products indicate there was a dyeN. 4582 (17th century)No dye componentsIndicate that the yellow color was obtainedwithout dyeing, it was the color tussah silk

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Conclusions: Identification of dyes from Conclusions: Identification of dyes from Indians Indians bedspreads of MNAAbedspreads of MNAA and NMSand NMS

Yellows

• FusticN. 1926 (18th century)

N. 2232 (18th century)

Indicate that this bedspreads, could be dyed in India

●TurmericN. 159 (18th century)

Indicate that this bedspreads, could be dyed in India

• WeldN. 2226 (17th century)

N. 4583 (17th/18th ?century)

The use of weld in India is not known

This bedspreads could be dyed in Portugal or in 18th century in India where the commercials changes were common

Reds• Lac dye

N. 112 (17th century)N. 1926 (18th century)N. 2232 (18th century)N. 4575 (16th/17th century)N. 4581 (17th century)

Indicate that this bedspreads were dyed in India

• Madder and safflower

N. 3413 (16th/17th century)N. 1926 (18th century)N. 2232 (18th century)

This dyes can’t be used of attribute an origin, they were common as dyes in India and in Portugal, since antiquity

Conclusions:Conclusions:

••The identification of the materials used in the process of ancieThe identification of the materials used in the process of ancient nt Indo-Portuguese bedspread bedspread inin 16th 16th -- 18th centuries from MNAA and from 18th centuries from MNAA and from NMS allow the NMS allow the confirm of an origin:

–The identification of the fibers of the embroidery of the bedspreads allows:

-Attribute India as origin when the fibers is Tussah silk and/or cotton-Attribute unknown origin when the fibers is Bombyx mori silk

-- The identification of dyes of the embroidery of the bedspreads aThe identification of dyes of the embroidery of the bedspreads allows:llows:

-Attribute Portugal as origin if there is Weld and/or Young fustic as dyes, mentioned and ruled in a publication from 1690.-Confirm or refute the dates of the bedspreads if there is mixtures of Weld and madder or Weld and Brazilwood, mentioned and ruled in a publication from 1690.- Attribute Portugal as origin if there is Cochineal and Brazilwood as dyed,

mentioned since 16th century. - Attribute India as origin if there is Lac dye, Fustic and Turmeric as dyes, mentioned since antiquity.

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Team projectTeam projectEstaEstaççãoão AgronAgronóómicamica NacionalNacional (E.A.N.):(E.A.N.):–– LisboaLisboa: Carmo Serrano: Carmo Serrano

MuseuMuseu NacionalNacional de Arte de Arte AntigaAntiga (M.N.A.A.):(M.N.A.A.):-- LisboaLisboa: Teresa Pacheco: Teresa Pacheco

UniversidadeUniversidade dada Beira Interior (U.B.I.): Beira Interior (U.B.I.): –– CovilhãCovilhã: Dr. Ana Lopes: Dr. Ana Lopes

InstitutoInstituto PortuguêsPortuguês de de ConservaConservaççãoão e e RestauroRestauro (I.P.C.R.):(I.P.C.R.):–– LisboaLisboa: Dr. Ana : Dr. Ana IsbelIsbel SeruyaSeruya

National Museums of Scotland: National Museums of Scotland: -- Edinburgh: Dr. Anita Edinburgh: Dr. Anita QuyeQuye

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