Exhibitors at the studded jewellery pavilion reported average to good response at the show.

The scene stealers at Signature this year were earrings, particularly the innumerable chand baalis (crescent-shaped danglers), stylized jhumkis, cocktail rings, and lightweight pendant and necklace sets in gold and diamonds.

Naman Kala, director, Kinu Baba Jewellery, Jaipur, said that his company was a first-time participant at Signature and they received a good number of buyers from Mumbai, Delhi and Punjab. The firm introduced its designer 14-karat diamond and polki collection without using lac to reduce price points and also help customers with the exact product disclosure in terms of gold weight and gemstone carats. Kala informed that they use both traditional and CAD/CAM concepts to develop designs with interesting fusion formats. The firm got plenty of enquires for its statement chand

Studded Jewellery

Lightweight, Designer Lines Get Thumbs-up From Buyers

Chand baalis by Nine Jewellery

baalis in the range of Rs.3 to Rs.5 lakh, and cocktail rings from Rs.40,000 to Rs.1 lakh.

Sensuel, another Signature debutant, got ample queries for its new collections, especially the mesh pendant sets. Vishal Jain, partner of Sensuel, informed that they received orders from Mumbai, Pune, Bangalore and Delhi for their lightweight collection. “The mesh chains are made in-house and look large in form, costing between Rs.50,000 and Rs.1.25 lakh. They can be worn with our elaborate diamond and gem-set pendants as well. Our new range of lightweight necklace sets with 7 to 8 carats of diamonds are also popular. They look grand with gemstone accents and are price-competitive.”

Chand baalis, the latest rage among Bollywood stars and fashionistas, is another product category that sold like hot cakes. Known for exceptional jewellery pieces that incorporate gold, pearls, uncut and full cut

diamonds and gemstones, Shah Gems of Jaipur saw buyers from Chennai, Bangalore, Hyderabad, Kolkata, Mumbai, Delhi and Chandigarh clamour for their designer chand baalis priced between Rs.1.40 lakh and Rs.2.25 lakh. Shashwat Shah of Shah Gems felt that the show was slow as compared with last year, but they were not complaining. “We are seeing our regular clients who are buying, but there are no new walk-ins at the show this time. Our line-up of 14- and 18-karat

(continued on page 2)

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jewellery studded with uncut and full cut diamonds is selling well as the overall cost of the set reduces by as much as 40%. For layering the jewellery sets, we use a lot of fresh water seed pearls as they are trending these days. This is our fourth year at the show and we are happy with the format and business generated.”

Nine Jewellery of Jaipur, too, reported fantastic sales of chand baalis. The firm’s partner Sandeep Sethi feels that the format of Signature is conducive for business as it gives him ample time to interact with his buyers. “During the IIJS, we tend to miss out prospective buyers as the footfalls are heavy. At this show, we could attend to all the buyers from across India, who among other jewellery lines, preferred the crescent-shaped danglers ranging from Rs.1 lakh to Rs.2.5 lakh.”

Two new collections – Kairee and Jhoomar –

(continued from page 1)

The plain gold section at Signature was abuzz with retailers from across India busy placing

orders for gold jewellery. Most exhibitors were happy with the volume of gold jewellery traded over the first three days of the show. Despite the gloomy market conditions, retailers placed quantitative orders for lightweight gold jewellery.

Haresh Pahuja chairman and CEO of Itan Jewels described the show in one word: “Fantastic”. Pahuja sold out most of his collections on the first two days to buyers from the northern, central and western regions of India and some retailers from Dubai and the US. Known for its machine and handmade 22-karat gold bangles and manchettes (broad kadas), the company showcased a gamut of inventory. Some of the openwork designer kadas weighing between 120 gm and 180 gm were instant hits.

“We have had a superb show,” exclaimed Bhairavi Shah, head designer of Bhavesh Jewellers, Mumbai. “We already have established clients in the South, but this year, we met new clients from the north and the east.” Their high-end buyers preferred to buy 22-karat necklace sets between 100 gm and 400 gm with light antique finish, while small-time retailers ordered sets between 40 gm and 80 gm. The hottest selling items at their booth were textured bead necklaces weighing an average of 70 grams.

In an endeavour to bring in lighter gold products, Krown Jewels showcased 22-karat manchettes weighing from 30 gm to 50 gm. Hardik Jagda of Krown stated that their regular clients liked their new range of rhodium-plated gold kadas with super chic ‘penta glow’ motifs. Another category that did well was floral chokers weighing as low as 60 gm to 120 gm, and geometric gold bibs weighing between 35 gm and 60 gm.

Viraj Jewels deals primarily in mangalsutras and received a good response at the show.

Cover Story

Gold Shines At Signature

I feel that regular buyers are not in the mood for buying jewellery.”

Second-time participant Kuldeep Singhi Shekhawat of DWS Jewellery felt that the show was average. Gold-plated silver earrings in the range of Rs.1,000 to Rs.1,50,000 were the fast-moving items. They also received a good response for their trendy broad cuffs from clients based in Mumbai, Bangalore and Hyderabad.

On the other hand, Shenazz Amarnani, proprietor of Mirella, Mumbai, had a great show. Their designer collections that employ VVS-FG diamonds and different gold alloys from Hong Kong, starts from Rs.40,000 upward. “What works in our favour is good designs and fine finishing that adds brownie points to our lightweight lines. This year we got many new clients from Bangalore and Mumbai.”

Pankaj Bhandari of Bhandari Gold, Mumbai, said that he was extremely happy with the show. “Although sales are less compared to last year, I am satisfied with the response keeping in mind the current market conditions,” said Bhandari, laying emphasis on retailers’ demand for new concepts. “Earrings weighing 25 gm accented with uncut diamonds, rubies and pearls as per the design demands as well as chandelier earrings in gold are doing well.” Bhandari was also happy with the sales he was getting through his recently introduced mobile and tablet application for his B2B clients. Available to all, clients would need a username and a password to access his entire inventory on the app, facilitating better inventory management as well as making it convenient for retailers to view his stock and place orders.

Sunaina Jain of Adore Jewels said that she received enquiries from Mumbai, Bangalore and Pune. One of her collections that re-fashioned tribal silver jewellery was already sold out. She also received orders for her handmade stone-studded earrings and necklaces.

adorned the booth of Sanskriti, a Mumbai-based brand. Karan Garodia, the firm’s partner, reported that he had received clients from Chandigarh to Chennai, who appreciated the paisley motifs of the Kairee line and the stylized chandelier jhoomars outfitted with fine gemstones and diamonds. Bracelets ranging from Rs.50,000 to Rs.10 lakh received a good response, according to Garodia. “We have also added new patterns in our previous collections Jharokha, Devtaa and Di Zafiro, and all of them have received a favourable response. We are happy with the show.”

Head designer Vishvesh Zaveri of Gold Roof, Ahmedabad, reported that the show was slack for their company. “We make fusion jewellery with diamonds and natural emeralds and rubies and cater to B2B markets in South India and Maharashtra.

“Apart from our mangalsutras, we have also introduced necklaces with coloured beads. I have mangalsutras from 3 grams to 100 grams and have received orders across the board.” He mainly received visitors from Gujarat, Maharashtra and southern India.

Parag Bohra of Ratlan Jewellers said that their gajra work jewellery made up of tiny gold beads was popular. “Bangles from 60 grams to 600 grams and lightweight pendant sets have done extremely. Since this particular type of work is worn mainly by Marwaris, we got many buyers from Rajasthan as well as other areas that have a predominant Marwari population.”

S. Suresh of Krizz Jewellery Manufacturing said, “Signature has evolved as a niche show. We have seen a few but quality buyers who have placed large orders. Lightweight gold jewellery has been popular this year. Rings weighing 5 grams and necklace sets between 20 grams and 30 grams have done well. We have recently taken over the Chennai-based brand, Reva, and are showcasing hollow gold bracelets for men and women weighing as little as 20 grams. We have so far received buyers from Gujarat, northern India

and Madhya Pradesh.”Yogendra Jain of SK Jewellers has had a

fantastic run at Signature 2014. “Every year, the clients want to see new products with good quality finish and design. About 70% of the visitors are our old clients, while 30% of them are new clients. Currently, I am focussing on domestic sales and I am not entertaining export-oriented clients. With the current gold restrictions we are facing a problem which is why we have decided not to burden ourselves anymore and have taken orders only as per our production capacity.”

First-time participant Sanjay Shah, partner, Jewel Cast, is happy with the response from the show. Specialising in 22-karat temple jewellery, he received enquiries for his heavy jewellery and interacted with buyers from across the nation.

Lalit Kothari, partner, Siletta Gold feels that sales this year have outdone sales of the previous year. At the show, he met new customers from Dubai as well as retailers from the country, especially from the South. Specialising in 22-karat plain gold jewellery, Kothari has received orders for jewellery sets between 70 grams and 110 grams.

Arham Jewellers from Mumbai is famous for its filigreed jewellery with a touch of enamelling and use of rubies and emeralds. Proprietor Kapil Bapna revealed, “Serious buying did happen and we did get orders from Chennai, Pune and Ahmedabad, but overall, the sentiment is not so strong. I would say there was a drop of 10-15% in terms of buying, but that was expected. The scenario is tough and we are eagerly awaiting a change in gold policies.”

Broad bracelet by Itan Jewels.

Editorial, Design and Production

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Gem-set danglers by Gold Roof.

Ambulal Motiram & Sons of Mumbai introduces its new collection of machine-made 22-karat gold bangles with rhodium plating in attractive designs. Light and

trendy, these bangles will spruce up any attire. Wear them to work or to an evening out – the bangles will shine through any occasion.

Flatter

Your Wrists

The new collection of broad bangles crafted in 22-karat yellow gold by Oro of Raia Jewels Pvt. Ltd. is highlighted with rhodium

accents. Inspired by spring, the new range uses textures and enamelling to enhance the floral pattern in each bangle. Emphasising on the symmetry of the design, each piece is a manufacturing marvel. Raia is known for its expertise in crafting machine-made bangles.

Two-tone Accents

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Brand Watch

SIGNATURE CLUB

Uni-Design showcases innovative pendants that can take you from day to night. Keeping the latest trends in mind, the collection has it all. Featured

here is a paisley tassel pendant, a geometric diamond-studded pendant, a brushed rose gold pendant and a diamond pendant with a burst of colour. Whatever your style, Uni-Design has something for everyone.

Pendant

PenchantSIGNATURE

CLUB

GoldJewellery

Brand Watch

Pratharv, an R.P. Jewels enterprise by Pooja Vaswani, specialises in exquisite diamond and gemstone jewellery. Showcasing its creative strength at

Signature 2014, Pratharv will display floral rings, necklaces and pendants studded with diamonds and colour stones. The jewellery mimics the infinite shades of nature to perfection.

Vara Jewels showcases flattering bangles for your wrists at Signature 2014. Set in yellow gold and accented with diamonds and colour stones, the bangles

are perfect accessories to flatter your wrists. Vara Jewels also showcases a vast range of pendants that are studded with diamonds and coloured stones, and are patterned for a contemporary woman who loves a dash of ethnicity.

Floral

Fine

Indulgence

Lines

An impressive diamond fare is presented by Dass Diamond Jewelry of Mumbai at Signature. Known for its exquisite handmade

diamond jewellery, Dass Diamond presents a stunning watch encrusted with yellow sapphires and brilliant-cut diamonds with an intricate openwork gold bangle. Also featured here is a unique diamond and emerald paisley bangle that can dress up any outfit.

DiamondSparklers

Studded Jewellery

Studded Jewellery

Studded Jewellery

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Lovely Gems displays fine craftsmanship with its latest collection of handmade studded gold jewellery. Blending modern concepts

with traditional motifs, the fusion collection encompasses polkis and diamonds, sapphires, rubies and pearls. These alluring jewels perfectly balance design and aesthetics with an affordable price tag.

Known for its attractive traditional and antique gold jewellery, Designer Jewels unveils their latest range of necklace and pendant

sets at the show. Featured here is a traditionally designed gold necklace that is adorned with nakashi work and bejewelled with colour stones. Pair it with the matching jhumkis to get a touch of opulence.

Fab

Ethnic

Fusion

Vibe

Studded Jewellery

Karma Jewels, a unit of Kulthiaa Jewel (P) Ltd., fuses ethnic and contemporary styles to showcase unique pieces. Diamonds, precious

and semi-precious stones come together to create jewellery that is bold and stylish. Featured here is a marquise and pear diamond-studded bracelet crafted in 18-karat gold; attractive diamond and ruby jhumkis; and a royal bridal choker from their Fusion Artistry collection.

DiamondElegance

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Brand Watch

GoldJewellery

Studded Jewellery

Mansukh Kothari, proprietor of Vasupati Jewellers, Mumbai, is well-known for utilising traditional techniques like filigree, rawa and hammering in his 22-karat gold jewellery lines. Keeping pace with the times, Kothari’s accomplished in-house design team prepares in advance to present new lines year-on-year for Signature.

What new ideas have you come up with this time for Signature? This year, we have eulogised the colourful butterfly in our collection. We have used butterfly motifs against the backdrop of dense foliage. The butterflies are finely enamelled with pastel shades. I am sure, this will resonate well with the modern age woman. The fusion jewellery crafted in 22-karat gold consists of

Gaurav Jagwani, Director of Saiesha Jewellery Pvt. Ltd continues to be optimistic about the future of the jewellery industry and speaks about the importance of creating jewellery that is trendy and fashionable yet functional.

Tell us more about your brand. Saiesha Jewellery is primarily a fashionable design-centric diamond jewellery manufacturing company that specialises in bracelets and earrings.

Will you be showcasing any new collections at Signature 2014?At Signature, we will be launching 13 new collections. These collections include a wide array of themes including traditional, modern, diamond, polki and classic jewellery that will appeal to the masses.

What are the popular jewellery items at the moment?Bracelets and earrings are the current fast-moving favourites and they happen to be our speciality.

How are you coping with the gold deficit?Our business ideas and concepts haven’t changed. We continue to make functional jewellery for the modern woman.

Diamonds accented with coloured stones is the latest trend. Please comment.Everyone wants jewellery that is stylish and chic. Today, even the traditional segment, which accounts for a sizable share of the market, is seeking change. Gem-studded jewellery is eye-catching and more appealing particularly in the tough economic times as compared to only diamond-studded jewellery, because it offers more value for money.

What is the most popular precious stone at the moment?It differs from person to person, but emeralds are a rage at the moment.

What are your expectations for Signature 2014?Frankly, the market environment hasn’t been very positive over the last six months or so. However, there is great potential and there are signs of improvement. We always aim to do better than the previous year. This year is no different despite the current market conditions.

‘We Aim To Do Better Than Last Year’

‘There’s No Compromise On Design’

Gaurav Jagwani Director of Saiesha Jewellery Pvt. Ltd

Mansukh KothariProprietor of Vasupati Jewellers, Mumbai

8

Design Corner

necklace sets (60-80 grams in weight), pendant sets (30-40 grams), chokers (up to 100 grams), bangles and kadas (40-60 grams).

You have not compromised on gold usage at a time when the raw material is difficult to procure. The Indian market is not doing well in terms of jewellery sales. It is reported that sales across India have plummeted between 20% and 40%. Importing gold for local consumption has become a “headache” for us manufacturers. However, we have not compromised on gold usage even though we manufacturers have to a pay a premium for procuring raw gold.

I don’t believe in a half-hearted approach; I invest money in design research to come up with something timeless. For this collection, we started work last September. And even if we do use less gold in a particular collection, we add value by upping the design quotient like we did with our recent collection that was was unveiled two months ago.

Can you tell us more about it? It is an interesting concept, and again we had to research and plan the line to bring newness to it. We incorporated a special bead stringing technique – in layman’s parlance, weaving net – to string carved and plain beads of rubies, emeralds, blue sapphires, and rhodolites into necklaces that featured kundan-meena pendants and side clasps. At times, the beads were interspersed with textured gold beads that were bordered with diamonds. The look that we achieved was unique and offered more bang for the buck. I have new additions in this line as well at the show.

Why is Signature such a big draw?This show gives us the luxury to spend time with our serious clients and explain to them the intricacies of the designs, the concept and the stories that we intend to tell through our pieces. Signature is a premium show and draws top retailers from India. I am therefore pinning my hopes on this exclusive show and am expecting an average to good turnout which, in turn, will boost jewellery sales.

Interview Of The Day

Costantino Papadimitriou, Head of Design at Forevermark by De Beers, who visited the Signature Show on day one speaks about the popular design trends in India and abroad.

Is this your first time at the Signature show? What do you think about the show in terms of design aesthetics?This is my second time at Signature, and I think the show is full of beautiful jewellery. There are a lot of lovely designs which are targeted to the Indian market.

Could you tell us about one trend that never goes out of fashion? Classic jewellery never goes out of fashion. Simple pendants and a pair of stud earrings with large sized diamonds have always been popular. Classic pieces can be worn on a daily basis for work and not just on weddings or other occasions. Elegant rings with simple designs have always been in trend and at the same time they also make a statement.

Currently, what are the most popular designs in India and overseas?The Indian customer market is very different from the global market. Here, women prefer wearing mangalsutras and broad bangles. But in international markets, women prefer to wear simple jewellery

‘We Are Optimistic About The Domestic Growth Rate’

Costantino PapadimitriouHead of Design at Forevermark

like small pendants and rings on a daily basis; they do not go for opulent or overly designed jewellery. The Forevermark Encordia and Cornerstones collections are quite popular in India, while globally, the Forevermark Millemoi collection is doing well.

Tell us more about the Forevermark trend book – has it been released yet? How does it help the retail market?The Forevermark trend book is created especially for Forevermark jewellers, as it gives them a direction on the global design trends and jewellery inspirations. This book is being launched in India and globally and will be available only to Forevermark Authorised Jewellers. We believe strongly in creating partnerships and design is one of the key areas where we add value to our Forevermark partners.

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