strengthen hair from the inside—fiberhance™ BM solution

superior hair strengthening — from the inside

Everyone wants to have strong, healthy, manageable hair but the effects of modern living take their toll on hair. Factors such as aging, increased use of modern appliances such as hot irons and blow-dryers, and the universal trend of coloring hair, all contribute to damage and weakness to the hair fibers. As such, the hair-strengthening market is growing rapidly as science begins to find the answers to combatting hair weakening, thinning and breaking.

Historically, most solutions for weak hair have involved ingredients which act primarily at the surface with limited penetration. These have included various forms of proteins, keratin derivatives and some vitamins and natural oils.

FiberHance BM solution is a new patented chemistry to be included in the arsenal of ingredients for hair strengthening. Evolving from glucose-based chemistry, it has a unique multifaceted mode of action which penetrates deep into the cortex to create new hydrogen and ionic bonds which support the damaged internal keratin structure and strengthen and provide manageability back to the hair.

INCI: Hydroxypropyl gluconamide and hydroxypropyl ammonium gluconate

chemical structure

OH

OH OH

HO

HO NH

CH2

CH2

CH2

O

O

CAS number: 2060570-71-8

typical properties

property measurement

Appearance Clear to pale colored

Odor Characteristic

Total solids, % 48–52

pH at 25 °C 4.7–5.7

Brookfield Viscosity, cps (RVT, sp4,10 RPM at 25 °C)

<50 cps

what is weak hair? Weak hair is where the inner structure of the hair has been compromised, with its bonds and linkages broken or damaged. There can be a range of reasons for hair to weaken and thin — aging, heat or chemical treatments, or simply the environment. The only effective long-term solution is to repair and restore, or replace, the internal structure of the hair.

2

key features and benefits

features benefits

Unique, new to the world, innovative patented ingredient which strengthens internal hair structure up to 3X that of untreated hair.

New claims such as new technology, unique, builder provide opportunity to capture share of strengthening sector of market.

Works by creating additional hydrogen and ionic bonds within the hair keratin structure.

New multifunctional mechanism of action, optimized to interact at the molecular level.

Penetrates deep into the hair fiber to the cortex and restores hair fiber strength back to levels of virgin hair.

Very few technologies can claim inner strengthening functionality, this technology is superior.

Cost effective. Replaces higher cost alternatives.

Supplied as 50% solution. Enables easy manufacturing, lowers production costs.

Good sustainability footprint. Natural origin, zero-waste green manufacturing process.

Works in hair color process systems. Enter fast growing builder segment in hair care.

fiberHance™ bm solution - mechanism of action fiberHance™ bm solution: new to the world small molecule in which the chemical structure and dimension have been specifically designed to optimize multi-bond interactions within the hair keratin cortex

OH

OH

OH

HO

HO

O

the α-helix protein structure in the hair fiber provide the strength to the hair in weak hair the bonds are broken and missingfiberhance™ builds new bonds within and across the structure (dual mechanisms)

the α-helix protein structure in the hair fiber provide the strength to the hair in weak hair the bonds are broken and missingfiberhance™ builds new bonds within and across the structure (dual mechanisms)

internal hydrogen bonding within theα-helix

Hydrogen bonding between α-helixs

within the α helix between the α helix

mode of action The α-helix protein structure in the hair fiber provides the strength to the hair. In weak hair the bonds are broken and missing.

FiberHance™ BM solution is a small molecule in which the chemical structure and dimensions have been specifically designed to optimize multi-bond interactions within the hair keratin cortex and as such builds new bonds within and across the structure (dual mechanisms).

FiberHance BM solution provides >3X strengthening of untreated hair across various hair types

FiberHance BM solution provides up to 3X strengthening of untreated hair across various degrees of damage

Cyclic tensile fatigue on single hair fiber measures the number of cycle to break under controlled stress mode. The higher the number, the stronger the hair.

Done on a 2% as is solution, pH4 adjusted, 50% RH, 23 °C, n=40-50 fibers, constant stress mode 0.014 g/µ m2, CYC801 DiaStron.

fiberhance BM solution penetrates into the hair fiber as measured by FTIR

2X bleached, treated with FiberHance BM solution (soaked 2% as is solution then washed).

Intensity map of band 1400 cm–1 by FTIR.

Increased band intensity at 1400 cm–1 was observed in treated hair cross sections. The FTIR intensity is normalized by protein content, red corresponds to highest intensity (or level of FiberHance), and blue corresponds to lowest intensity (or absence of FiberHance).

< treated

< control

fiberhance™ BM provides superior inner strengthening of hair in shampoos

100

90

80

70

60

50

40

30

20

10

0

surv

iva

l pro

pe

rty

(%)

number of cycles to break

0 5,000 10,000 20,000 25,000 30,00015,000

Caucasian virginCaucasian bleached 2xCaucasian bleached 2x + 2% as is FiberHance BMCaucasian bleached 3xCaucasian bleached 3x + 2% as is FiberHance BM

100

90

80

70

60

50

40

30

20

10

0

surv

iva

l pro

pe

rty

(%)

number of cycles to break

0 5,000 10,000 20,000 25,000 30,00015,000

Afro hair virgin + 2% as is FiberHance BM

Afro hair virgin

Caucasian virginCaucasian virgin + 2% as is FiberHance BMChinese virginChinese virgin + 2% as is FiberHance BM

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FiberHance BM solution compared to hair strengthening benchmark – Panthenol

fiberhance™ out-performs competitive technologies

fiberhance shampoo formulations really work! (When tested with a fully formulated shampoo. ref Z351-18H*)

Performance is maintained even after ceasing use

14

FiberHanceBM

1X shampoo Control FiberHance

BM2X

shampoo Control FiberHanceBM

3X shampoo Control

FiberHanceBM

4X shampoo Control FiberHance

BM6X

shampoo Control FiberHanceBM

7X shampoo Control

fiberHance shampoo formulations help to reduce hair breakageSeen as fewer fibers after multiple washes.

8000

7000

6000

5000

4000

3000

2000

1000

0

nu

mb

er o

f cyc

les

to b

rea

k

Control3x bleached

3x bleached+ 1% active Panthenol

3x bleached+ 1% active

FiberHance BM

9000

8000

7000

6000

5000

4000

3000

2000

1000

0

nu

mb

er o

f cyc

les

to b

rea

k

Control3x bleached

Shampoo with

FiberHancewashed

1x

Shampoo withFiberHanceadditional

5 min contact time (to mimic

5x washes)

Rinsed for 5 min

contact time

(to mimic 5x washes)

Rinsed for additional

5 min (to mimic

5x additional washes)

a new measurement of damage using FTIR — equivalent damage factor (EDF)

symmetric S=O stretch in cysteic acidasymmetric S=O stretch

virgin

1x bleached2x bleached

3x bleached

a new “plex” for hair coloring treatments

commercial color kit

for retail #1 professional retail #2 professional retail #3

EDF EDF EDF

Before coloring 1.00 0.99 0.00

After coloring 1.17 1.02 0.22

After coloring (added market leader BM to mix) 0.91 0.94 0.14

After coloring (added FiberHance™ BM solution to mix) 0.89 0.92 0.16

Hair used/mix concentration

1x Bleached Caucasian Hair, 20 g color cream, 20 g developer, 5 g additive

1x Bleached Caucasian Hair, 6 g cream, 6 g developer, 2 g additive

Caucasian Hair, 6 g cream, 6 g developer, 2 g additive

FiberHance BM solution reduces damage during coloring process

lower EDF values = less damage

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formulations supported by Ashland

intensity premium hair strengthening shampoos (Z351-18A)

ingredients (Trade Name) INCI name % w/w supplier

phase A

Deionized Water Aqua ad 100% Local

N-Hance™ 3196 conditioning polymer Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride 0.20 Ashland

Citric Acid Citric Acid 0.05 Local

Betadet® HR (30%) Cocamidopropyl Betaine 6.67 Kao

Emal® 228D (28%) Sodium Laureth Sulfate 28.30 Kao

Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (95%) Sodium Lauryl Sulfate 6.32 Local

phase B

Deionized Water Aqua 20.00 Local

Ashland™ 980 Carbomer Carbomer 0.40 Ashland

Citric Acid Citric Acid 0.05 Local

phase C

Ceraphyl™ 60 ester Quaternium-22 0.50 Ashland

Ceraphyl™ 41 ester C12-15 Alkyl Lactate 0.15 Ashland

Belsil® ADM 8301EAmodimethicone/Morpholinomethyl Silsesquioxane,Trideceth-5, Glycerin

1.00 Wacker

Xiameter® MEM 1788 Dimethiconol (and) TEA-Dodecylbenzenesulfonate 1.80 Xiameter

Optiphen™ 200 preservative Phenoxyethanol and Caprylyl Glycol 1.00 Ashland

Lamesoft© CarePEG-4 Distearyl Ether (and) Sodium Laureth sulfate (and) Distearyl Ether (and) Dicaprylyl Ether

2.00 BASF

Euperlan© PK 3000 Glycerol Distearate, Laureth-4, Cocamidopropyl Betaine 3.00 BASF

FiberHance™ BM Solution Hydroxypropyl Gluconamide and HydroxypropylAmmonium Gluconate 1.00 Ashland

Perfume Petal Blanche Parfum 0.50 Firmenich

phase D

Citric Acid Citric Acid 0.05 Local

Sodium Chloride Sodium Chloride 0.1 Local

total 100.00* Trademark owned by a third party

procedure1. Phase A: Disperse the N-Hance 3196 in water and mix until lump-free.

2. Add citric acid and mix until fully hydrated.

3. Phase B: Disperse the carbomer in water and citric acid until lump-free and add to Phase A.

4. Phase C: Add the ingredients in order with good stirring.

5. Add surfactants in the right order.

6. Phase D: Adjust the pH with sodium hydroxide 33% and sodium chloride to the desired pH and viscosity.

typical propertiesStability: Pass 12 weeks at 45 °CAppearance: Creamy viscous liquid pH: 4.0–4.5Viscosity: 6,000–9,000 mPa·s Brookfield LVT Spindle #3, 12 RPM, 1 min at 25 °C

This formula has passed 3 M stability test at 45 °C and 28-day double challenge efficacy test. However, the preservative system has not been optimized to its lowest effective level.

formulations supported by Ashland

resilience clear strengthening shampoo for fine hair (Z351-10L)

ingredients (Trade Name) INCI name % w/w supplier

phase A

Deionized Water Aqua a.d.100% Local

Disodium EDTA Disodium EDTA 0.05 Local

ClearHance™ C conditioning polymer Cassia Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride 0.20 Ashland

Emal® 228D (28%) Sodium Laureth Sulfate 38.50 Kao

Betadet® HR (30%) Cocamidopropyl Betaine 8.00 Kao

Plantacare® 818 Coco Glucoside 0.50 BASF

phase B

Ceraphyl™ 41 ester C12-15 Alkyl Lactate 0.10 Ashland

Escalol™ 577 uv filter Benzophenone-4 0.05 Ashland

Optiphen™ 200 preservative Phenoxyethanol and Caprylyl Glycol 0.60 Ashland

phase C

Perfume Petal Blanche Parfum 0.50 Firmenich

FiberHance™ BM Solution Hydroxypropyl Gluconamide and HydroxypropylAmmonium Gluconate 1.00 Ashland

Zenix™ 4617 surfactant Oleth-5 Phosphate 1.50 Ashland

phase D

Citric Acid (50%) Citric Acid 0.05 Local

Sodium Chloride Sodium Chloride 0.50 Local

total 100.00* Trademark owned by a third party

procedure1. Phase A: Add ingredients in order while mixing. Mix until fully dissolved.

2. Phase B: Dissolve the Escalol 577 in the Ceraphyl 41 and the Optiphen 200 mixture and add to Phase A.

3. Phase C: Add ingredients to the main mix in order while mixing.

4. Phase D: Add Citric Acid/Sodium Hydroxide to pH 4.5–5.0 and Sodium Chloride to the right viscosity.

typical propertiesStability: Pass 12 weeks at 45 °CAppearance: Clear shampoopH: 4.0–5.0Viscosity: 6,000–9,000 mPa·s Brookfield LVT Spindle #3, 12 RPM, 1 min at 25 °C

This formula has passed 3 M stability test at 45 °C and 28-day double challenge efficacy test. However, the preservative system has not been optimized to its lowest effective level.

References

Scientific publication:

“Strengthening the hair fiber from within: repairing the cortex of damaged hair” IFSCC Journal 3 (2016), 111-117.

Patents:

WO/17011237 A1 US 2017/0007518 A1

REGIONAL CENTERS

North America — Bridgewater, NJ USA Tel: +1 800 505 8984

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Asia Pacific — Singapore Tel: +65 6775 5366

The information contained in this brochure and the various products described are intended for use only by persons having technical skill and at their own discretion and risk after they have performed necessary technical investigations, tests and evaluations of the products and their uses. Certain end uses of these products may be regulated pursuant to rules or regulations governing medical devices, drug uses, or pesticidal or antimicrobial uses. It is the end user’s responsibility to determine the applicability of such regulations to its products.

All statements, information, and data presented herein are believed to be accurate and reliable, but are not to be taken as a guarantee of fitness for a particular purpose, or representation, express or implied, for which seller assumes legal responsibility. No freedom to use any patent owned by Ashland, its subsidiaries, or its suppliers is to be inferred.

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