[email protected] Page 1 of 20 · es, I admit that driving thousands of kilometres into the...
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Page 1 of 20 ŠKODA Storyboard skoda-storyboard.com [email protected] FROM DETAILS TO STORY skoda-storyboard.com Y https://www.skoda-storyboard.com/en/models/mission-unaccomplished/ Driving some 7,000 kilometres, publisher Jiří Švamberk travels in pursuit of a dream to surf on Senegal’s uncrowded beaches (albeit with one small glitch at the end). Read on to join his adventure vicariously. es, I admit that driving thousands of kilometres into the paradise of desert rally racing had an opportunistic justification. My photographer, also named Jiří, and I are surfing enthusiasts. From Bohemia, the closest nice spot to surf is off the coast of France in the Bay of Biscay, which is about 1,600 kilometres distant. The main problem is not the distance, but rather the current popularity of surfing. In recent years, this kind of adrenaline entertainment and leisure lifestyle has been Mission Unaccomplished
Transcript of [email protected] Page 1 of 20 · es, I admit that driving thousands of kilometres into the...
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Drivingsome7,000kilometres,publisherJiříŠvamberktravelsinpursuitofadreamtosurfonSenegal’suncrowdedbeaches(albeitwithonesmallglitchattheend).Readontojoinhisadventurevicariously.
es,Iadmitthatdrivingthousandsofkilometresintotheparadiseofdesertrallyracinghadanopportunisticjustification.Myphotographer,alsonamedJiří,andIaresurfingenthusiasts.FromBohemia,theclosestnicespottosurfisoffthecoastofFranceintheBayofBiscay,whichisabout1,600kilometresdistant.
Themainproblemisnotthedistance,butratherthecurrentpopularityofsurfing.Inrecentyears,thiskindofadrenalineentertainmentandleisurelifestylehasbeen
MissionUnaccomplished
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experiencinganinexplicableheydayinEurope.Asaresult,beachesareovercrowdedbysurf-greedywaveriderswhomostlyrefusetorespectsurfing’sratherstrictrules.InAfrica,thesituationisalittlebetter.
Wemetsomeinterestinglocalinhabitantsalongtheway.
“FORSUCHANAFRICANADVENTURE,ONEDEFINITELYISWELLADVISEDTOHAVEACAPABLEQUAD.”JiříŠvamberk4×4RECOMMENDED!Thatisnottosay,ofcourse,thatifonedoesnothaveacarwith4×4driveonecannotgotoAfrica,butIrecommendaquadforthesakeofpeaceofmind.TheriskofgettingstuckinthemiddleoftheSaharaDesertisnotsuchasmallmatter.
Becauseworkingasamotoringjournalistallowsmetotestavarietyofcars,Icansaywithonlyabitofexaggerationthattherewereplentyofpossibilitiesfromwhichtochoose.Nevertheless,I'dhadaclearideaforalongtimeastowhatIwantedtodrive.Withoutadoubt,IhavedriventheŠKODAYETIformorekilometresinmyprofessionalwork(about15,000kilometres)thananyothercar,anduntilthearrivalofthenewSUPERBIhadconsidereditthebestproducttorolloutoftheMladaBoleslavfactory.
Thechoiceofenginewasnottobetakenlightly,either.Ianticipatedthetwo-litreturbodieselengineinthe110kWmodelwouldbeidealforbothitsfuelconsumptionandhightorque,whichinsandwouldcomeinprettyhandy.IalsoarrangedwiththepeopleattheŠKODAfactorytosetupthecarwithall-terraintiresandanautomatictransmission.IchosetheautomatictransmissionbecauseIregardVolkswagen
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Group’sdirect-shiftgearbox(DSG)asoneofthebestautomatictransmissionsonthemarketandall-terraintiresbecauseIknowwhatahugedifferencetheycanmakingwhendrivingoff-road,whichshouldbeapartofourdailyroutineforthespaceofthreeweeks.
PROBLEMATICVISATheRepublicofSenegalliesuponthewestcoastofAfrica.TravellingtherebycarfromtheCzechRepublicmeansadriveofatleast6,300kilometres.OnceonegetsdowntoAlgecirasinSpain,thereispracticallyonlyonelandroute.ItleadsthroughMorocco,WesternSahara,andMauritaniafollowingtheN1road.
AEuropeanspoiledbylivingintheSchengenAreaisunaccustomedtodealingwiththewhen,howandwhereofbordercrossingsbetweentwogivencountries.InAfrica,apersonwillquicklygetone’sfillofbordersand,believeme,tothisdayIstilldonotunderstandsomeofthesituationsweencountered.Itistruethatitwasallconsiderablyeasierforus,because,thankstothewell-knownpeopleathomeamongtheorganizersandcompetitorsinthelong-distancedesertrally,wehadconnectionsarrangedforusattheAfricanborders,butevenso…
“Itisimportantnottogivethemanything,andfirstandforemostnotthedocumentsfromthecar.”JiříŠvamberkUntilrecently,oneneededvisastoenterSenegaleseterritory.Since1Mayoflastyear,thesituationgotsimplerinthesensethatonegetsabunchofstampsandsignaturesatthebordersandneednotpayanythingforthem.Thatdoesnotmean,however,thatcrossingbordersisacompletebreeze.
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Mauritania,whereonedoesneedtheaforementionedvisas,becameournightmare.Theyshouldprovideonetheseforthepriceof120EURperpersonfor30daysattheMauritanianconsulateinBerlin,whereIwentjustbeforeleaving,becauseIdidnotwanttoriskhavinganyproblemsinthisparticularcountry.Nevertheless,avisaisonlyoneofthedocumentsoneneedswhentravellingbycar.Anotheris,forexample,thecustomscertificate,knownastheCarnetdePassagesenDouaneforone’scar.Thisdecidedlydoesnotcomeforfree,andifonedoesnotknowabouttherequirement,onepaysdearlyforone’signorance.
Awell-deservedrestaftersomegreatbutstrenuoussurfing.
Childrentheworldoverarefascinatedwithcars.DrivingtoAfricawithone’sowncarhasmanyadvantages,becauseinthecasethatiftheoccupantsarenotlistedasownersofthecar,oneneedsaFrench-languagepowerofattorneywithastampandtheAfricansgenerallycreateslightproblems.Furthermore,duetothepreviouslybuoyantimportsofusedcarsfromFrance,theMoroccanswillnotletoneontotheirterritorywithoutthesepapers.Beforeoneevengetsoutoftheharbour,onemustcompleteanumberofvariousformsinArabicandFrench.Thereisnoneedtoworry,though,becausethelocalborderguardsareusedtothisandarewillingtohelpvisitors.
ThereareplentyofotherindividualsroamingaboutinSpanishorMoroccanborderterritorywhoarealsoeagertohelpout.Theycanbesimplyignored,however.Theyaregenerallyharmlessandjustwanteffortlesslytoearnsomeeuro.Itisimportantnottogivethemanything,andfirstandforemostnotthedocumentsfromthecar.Thismaysoundlaughable,butthereareplentyofpeoplewhohavedonejustthat,andnodoubtplentymorewilldosoinfuture…
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RADAREVERYWHEREWeplannedourfirststoptobeatAgadirincentralMorocco,whichisabout800kilometresfromtheportcityofTangier.OnecandrivealongthemodernhighwaytoAgadirfor65EUR,or,tosavesomemoney,weaveone’swaythroughthecountrysideontotallycoollocalroads.Thisisverytime-consuming,however,becauseMoroccantownsarelongerthantheweekbeforepaydayandthereareusuallyseveraloftheminarow.
ThequalityofthelocalroadsinMoroccoissurprisinglygood,andnotjustthemotorwaysbuteventhoseoflowerclasses.Onejustmustgetaccustomedtotheubiquitouspolicecontrols,whichseemtogrowexponentiallyinnumberwiththenumberofkilometresonetravelssouthwards.TheMoroccanguardiansoflawandorderalsodelightintheactivityknownasradarspeedenforcement.Theydutifullymeasureeverywhere.
Accordingtoourobservation,thereexistssomekindofinternationalgamewhereinspecialattentionisdevotedtoforeigners.Ourtotalscorewasfivefines.Webargainedovertwoofthese,bribedourwayoutofone,inanothercasethepolicemanwassatisfiedwitha200CZKbill,andinthefinalinstanceIwasrelievedof30EUR.
CentralmarketinAgadiriswherelocalpeopleshop.Itisextremelycolourfulandlively.ThefishingvillageofImsouaneisnowmorelikeasurfers’haven.Thelandscapeisjustamazing.FromstrictlytouristicAgadir,hometoprobablythebestknownMoroccansurfspots,ourjourneyofaround2,000kilometresledthroughWesternSaharatotheMauritanianborder.Imustsaythatthisregion,whichinMoroccotheyrefertoasMorocco’s“SouthernProvinces”(asomewhatcontentiouspointofwhichitisgoodtobeaware)andwhichhascaughttheinterestofperhapseveryoneinthe
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generalregionfromnearandfar,isaprettyinterestingplace.Oneprobablywouldnotwanttolivethere,though.Enthusiasticmotoristswillbeespeciallypleasedthatalitreofdieselcostsabout13Czechcrowns,whilepetrolispricedatabout15CZK.Oneneednotfearthequalityofthefuel,aseveryonedrivestherejustfine,althoughtheydochangethefiltersmoreoften.TheavailabilityofAdBlueisalittletrickier.
Theprofileoflocalroadsmaybedescribedasmonotonous,bywhichImeanexhaustinglystraightandseeminglynever-ending,buttheycansurpriseonewith,forinstance,sanddrifts.Ihitoneofthoseat3:00inthemorningataspeedofalittleover100kilometresperhour.Fortunately,theYETIwithstooditwithabsoluteself-assuredness.
Itpaystoarriveearlyattheborder,asoneneverknowshowlongonewillbeheldupthere.Thatiswhywearrivedatdawnandwereatthefrontofthequeueofcars.Evenso,theyreleasedusonlyaftertwohoursofrunningaboutfromonestationtoanother.
Ok,theexpressionisabitoverused,butaMoroccansunsetistrulybreathtaking.
ROUGHMAURITANIAMoroccoandMauritaniadefinitelydonothavethebestrelationship,whichisclearfromthestripofno-man'slandapproximatelysixkilometreswidebetweenthetwobordercontrols.
Atthemoment,thisbitofdesertisundertheadministrationoftheUnitedNations,thankstowhichitisnolongdottedwithlandmines.Thesurroundingsarestillmined,however,soifonewouldliketogohomeinonepiece,itisbestnottoseekanalternativeroute.
Thelocallandscapehassnatchedupdozensupondozensofabandonedcars,and
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whilesomewerespookywrecks,theremainsofunfortunatesseekingapaththroughtheminefield(itmakesoneshuddertothinkaboutit),othersappearsimplytohavebeencarswhichonesideortheotherrefusedforsomereasontoletpassontoitsterritory.
Themilitarycheckwasthorough–andaboutasquickaswasthatatcustoms.ThepassportguystoldusthatourBerlinvisaswerenotvalidandthatweneedednewones,againfor240EUR.SomebodyprobablyforgottotelltheguysinBerlinthatbackhomeonlyabiometricvisawithphotographsandfingerprintshadbeenvalidforhalfayear.Thiswasaratherdisappointingdevelopment,toputitpolitely!Wetriedalittleresistance,butwithoutsuccess.InaboutfourhourswestoodatthefirstpolicecontrolinMauritania,lighterby240EUR,butwithanotherreallynicestickerinourpassports,which,aswewouldfindoutlater,isonlyvalidforentry.Shouldonewishtoleavethecountryagain,onemustacquireanothersuchsticker.Yes,foranother120EURperperson.
InMauritaniatherearewaymuchmorecamlesthanrealinhabitans.“InaboutfourhourswestoodatthefirstpolicecontrolinMauritania,lighterby240EUR.”JiříŠvamberkRouteNo.1runsfromWesternSaharatoMali.Sometimesitseemedwehadtofindourownpaths...Cattlewereeverywhere.Mauritaniawasforusonlyatransitcountryinasmuchasonecannotreallysurfthere,eventhoughwedidfindasuitablelocationonourwaybackthankstoaSpanishgirl.Wedrovethealmost900kilometresofcoastlineintwodaytimesegments,becausenightdrivingisnotrecommendedthere.Atnight,thereisagreatchancethatonewillrunintoanunlitcar,asagoodhalfofallvehiclesontheroadsimplydonothaveheadlights.
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GREENSENEGALAtfirstsight,SenegalisadifferentAfrica.Onegetsthefeelingofbeingbackincivilizationagain.Inadditiontomen,therearealsowomenonthestreets,andthetruthis,theyareveryprettyandbeautifullydressed.Roadsareoftop-qualityasphaltandsmooth,andthereisgreatercomforteverywhere.Forexample,inSaintLouis,oneofthelargestcities,firstgenerationŠKODAOCTAVIAandSUPERBcarsarepopularchoicesastaxis.Mostoftheroadsaroundlargercitiesareasphalt,butifonegoesabitbeyondthem,oneonceagainfindsoneselfindustandsand.
Despitefarbetterroads,thelocaltrafficissignificantlyslower.WhileacrosstheSaharaandMauritania,wehitanaverageofalmost90kilometresperhour,herewedidlessthan50kilometresperhour,becausethereisjusttoomuchtraffic.Therearenolanemarkings,anditiseasytoencounteradriverwhothinksthateventhevirtuallaneontheoppositesidebelongstohim.Onecangetthehangofdrivinghereafterawhile,though.
Ifwewanttotaketheseller’spicture,wehavetopayherprice.Andifwehavenomoneyinourpockets,well,thatbaguettewilldo!Wehadtravelledabout7,000kilometrestosurfonemptybeachesand,asarewardforoureffortsandthemoneyspent,theoceanwasasflatasamirror.Believeitornot,wewerejustsounlucky.Therewasnotawavetobeseen.Thelocalssaiditwasstrangebutthatithadbeenlikethisformorethanaweek.AfterfourdaysofwaitingforatleastdecentsurfingweturnedaroundanddrovebackbythesameroadtoWesternSaharaandtoMorocco,wherePoseidonfinallygreetedusmorebenevolently.
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MissionUnaccomplished
In25days,wedrovetheŠKODAYETI14,500kilometreswithanoverallaverageconsumptionof7.6litresper100kilometres.Weliterallylivedinthecarforseveraldaysinarow.
ThefuelconsumptionofourYETIwasatrulyinterestingphenomenon.Thankstothenorthwind(orratherwhirlwind)thathadaccompaniedusbeyondWesternSahara,thetwo-litreturbocharged,directinjectionengineburnedaround5.5litresofdieselper100kilometres.Thelowestrecordedusagewas3.1litresper100kilometres,butthisonlylastedforabout20kilometresorso.Onthewayback,thatsamewindwascontinuouslyinourfaceandfuelconsumptionmountedaccordingly.
Senegalisabeautifulcountry,butonethatwedidnotconquerassurfers.Iamreallythinkingaboutgoingthereonceagain–byplane.Takingtheriskofdrivingsuchadistanceagainonlytoturnaroundandgoback,issomethingIreallydonotwanttodo…
“In25days,wedrovetheŠKODAYETI14,500kilometreswithanoverallaverageconsumptionof7.6litresper100kilometres.”JiříŠvamberkThereisnoconceptofmaternityleavehere.
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SENEGAL–localwomenTheselocalladiesmustbestrongineveryrespect.
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SENEGAL–“fishshop”Thefishmarketmaynotbequitewhatonewouldimagine.
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SENEGAL–SenegalmothersThereisnoconceptofmaternityleavehere.
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SENEGAL–atthemarketIfwewanttotaketheseller’spicture,wehavetopayherprice.Andifwehavenomoneyinourpockets,well,thatbaguettewilldo!
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MOROCCO–neededrest
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Awell-deservedrestaftersomegreatbutstrenuoussurfing.
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SENEGAL–encounteringalocalWemetsomeinterestinglocalinhabitantsalongtheway.
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SENEGAL–localchildrenChildrentheworldoverarefascinatedwithcars.
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SENEGALAmarketnotfarfromDakar.
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SENEGALInSenegal,theyusefirst-generationŠKODAmodels,
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OCTAVIAandSUPERB,astaxis.
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SENEGALAfter25days,wehadcovered14,500kilometreswithourŠKODAYETI,using7.6litresoverallper100kilometres.Sometime,weliterallyevenlivedinitforseveraldaysinarow.
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SENEGALWepickedthewrongtimetoarrive.Streetswereblockedbylocalpeopleastheywerecelebrating.Ittookagestogetoutofthere.
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SENEGALYETI,LacRose,andsaltfields.
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SENEGALABaobabtreedwarfsourYETI.
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SENEGALTarmacisseenonlyincitiesandtheirsurroundings.
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SENEGALOurdestination:LacRose,located20kilometresfromDakar,capitalcityofSenegal.
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MAURITANIASometimesitseemedwehadtofindourownpaths...Cattlewereeverywhere.
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MAURITANIA
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RouteNo.1runsfromWesternSaharatoMali.
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MAURITANIAInMauritania,therearemanymorecamelsthanpeople.
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MAURITANIAWithESPswitchedoff,onecanfeelonMauritanianroadsasifdrivinginarally.
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MAURITANIAOursearchforsurfingspotssometimestestedtheoffroadingcapabilitiesofourYETI.
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MAURITANIAWhatagreatcar!
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MAURITANIAThecamelmarketwasoneofthemostdepressingplacestovisit.Onewishesthesedromedariescoulddefendthemselves.
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WESTERNSAHARAAnotherrareoccasiontorelaxandenjoytheview..
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WESTERNSAHARAWerunoutofroad.Thishappenedtousquiteoften.
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WESTERNSAHARA
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Peoplemightimaginethatinthedeserttherearenoflowers.Thisimageprovesthecontrary.
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WESTERNSAHARAIfonecrashesintheSahara,thereisbutlittlechanceofreceivingfirstaidbecausethereisreallynotmuchtraffic.
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WESTERNSAHARAHundredsandhundredsofkilometresthatlookedalike.
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MOROCCOItwasreallystrangetoseeEuropeansurfersenjoyingtheirlivesrightalongsidehardworking,low-paidfishermen.
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MOROCCOOk,theexpressionisabitoverused,butaMoroccan
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sunsetistrulybreathtaking.
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MOROCCOThefishingvillageofImsouaneisnowmorelikeasurfers’haven.Thelandscapeisjustamazing.
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MOROCCOCentralmarketinAgadiriswherelocalpeopleshop.Itisextremelycolourfulandlively.
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MOROCCOOnecanhavealotoffunwithYETI,especiallyonsandyroads.
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MOROCCO
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Well-paved,twisty-turnyB-classroadsarealmosteverywhereinMorocco.Butdriversbeware:speedingticketsarecostly.
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ASTURIASIfoneisafanofnoman’sland,Asturiasistheplacetogo.
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SENEGALTopassthroughsomeplaces,onemustwaituntillowtide.
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MAURITANIAAmagnificentplacenearDakhla.
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MOROCCOAwayfromthebigcities,ourYETIwaslikesomething
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fromadifferentworld.
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WESTERNSAHARAWhenashipisoutofservice,thebestthingtodoistoletitrust.
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WESTERNSAHARAOntheroadtoAfrica,acapable4x4isalmostanecessity.OnedoesnotwanttoriskgettingstucksomewhereinthemiddleoftheSaharaDesert.
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ASTURIASJusttwoweekswasenoughtoblocksomemountainroads,astemperaturedroppedfrom42°to−2°Celsius.
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MAURITANIA
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EveryonewantsaTicTac.
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WESTERNSAHARAAbeautifulnightskyinWesternSahara.Itfeltasthoughonecouldtouchthestars.
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