Stone SettingsJewelry 1 Project # 3

Core techniquesSolderingCuttingFiling

SawingBurnishing

PushingSanding

Bezel Setting

Photo 1: Cut a narrow strip of paper, wrap around stone, and mark overlap with a pencil. You now know the exact length of bezel wire needed. Cut at mark.

Photo 2: Transfer strip to bezel wire. Cut bezel wire to length. Make sure ends are square, filing them as necessary.

Photo 3: Bend bezel wire into circle so endsbutt against each other and there are no gaps.

Photo 4: Solder bezel material very carefully! When the solder starts to flow, remove heat immediately.

• Trial fit stone in bezel. • Sand bottom of bezel on emery paper on flat

surface until even. • Check that bottom surface sits flat with no

gaps. The bezel should slide easily over the stone. If the bezel is too tight, place it on a round bezel mandrel and tap around the circumference with a rawhide mallet to stretch it slightly. Check the fit often until it is perfect. Don’t rush the stretching. If the bezel is too large, remove the solder joint by cutting on both sides of the joint, then repeat measuring and soldering until it is perfect.

Photo 6: Cut backing plate to accommodate bezel. Clean backing plate with sandpaper then center bezel on backing and put on mesh screen. Flux and add solder. Light torch, solder bezel to backing plate. Quench, pickle, and dry.

Photo 7: Use black marker or pen to trace a line around stone and bezel.

Photo 8: Saw to outer line and then file smooth.

Constructing a

bezel set ring

• Construct ring band using material provided.

• Round out ring band on ring mandrel using a rawhide mallet.

• File the top of the ring flat. This is so you can solder on the bezel.

• Place bezel upside down on charcoal block and place the flat side of the ring band down onto the bezel.

• Flux• Place one piece of solder on either side of

the ring band and solder.• Remember, be very careful when

soldering not to melt the bezel.

Your Assignment1. You will construct a bezel set ring

using the technique learned in this PowerPoint.

2. You will be given a clear stone with a hint of color. These stones magnify whatever is underneath it. You need to bring an object to put behind the stone, such as: words, picture, organic materials… Its up to you!!

3. This project is worth 100 points, so be creative and have fun!