Starter Cluch

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142 a. Make sure the two dowels (C, Figure 24) are in place in the crankcase. b. Install a new alternator cover gasket (B, Figure 24). c. Lubricate the shift shaft oil seal so it will not be damaged during installation. d. Install the clutch cable/AIS bracket in its original location on the alternator cover (Figure 22). e. Seal the threads of the three indicated alternator cover bolts (Figure 26) with silicone sealant. f. Torque the alternator cover bolts and the clutch release mechanism cover bolts to 10 Nm (89 in.-lb.). g. Install the shift pedal/footrest assembly so the indexing mark on the shift shaft (A, Figure 27) aligns with the slot in the shift lever. Tighten the shift lever clamp bolt (B, Figure 27) to 10 Nm (89 in.-lb.). h. Add engine oil and adjust the clutch free play as described in Chapter Three. STATOR AND PICKUP COILS See Chapter Nine for stator and pickup coil removal and inspection procedures. FLYWHEEL AND STARTER CLUTCH The following Yamaha special tools, or their equivalents, are needed to remove or install the flywheel and starter clutch: 1. Sheave holder: part No. YS-01880 or 9089001701. 2. Flywheel puller: part No. YU-33270 or 9089001362. 3. Flywheel puller adapter: part No. YM-38145 or 90890-04131. Refer to Figure 28. Removal NOTE When the rear cylinder is set to TDC on the compression stroke, the timing mark on the cam sprocket may not precisely align with the pointer on the cylinder head. On some models, the camshafts are slightly retarded. The

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mark could be off by as much as 1/2 tooth. Before removing the flywheel, set the rear cylinder to top dead center on the compression stroke, and note the position of the timing marks on the cam sprocket and cylinder head. Take a photograph or make a drawing so the camshaft can be correctly timed during assembly. 1. Set the rear cylinder to top dead center on the compression stroke as follows:

ENGINE LOWER END

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28 FLYWHEEL AND STARTER CLUTCH

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1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8.

Bolt One-way clutch housing One-way clutch Flywheel Washer Nut Pin Spring

9. 10. 11. 12. 13. 14. 15. 16.

Timing gear Snap ring Washer Bearing Starter wheel gear Starter idler gear assembly Idler gear shaft Woodruff key

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a. Remove the timing cover (C, Figure 18) and the flywheel bolt cover (D) from the alternator cover. b. Remove the cam sprocket cover from the rear cylinder head. c. Use the flywheel nut to rotate the crankshaft clockwise until the T-mark on the flywheel (A, Figure 29) aligns with the cutout in the alternator cover (B). d. Check the timing mark on the rear cam sprocket (A, Figure 30). It should align with the pointer on the rear cylinder head (B, Figure 30).

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e. If the timing mark on the rear cam sprocket does not align with the pointer on the rear head, rotate the engine one turn clockwise. 2. Remove the alternator cover as described in this chapter. NOTE Install the sheave holder so it sits completely flat against the flywheel. Do not let the sheave holder sit across any raised portion (A, Figure 31) of the flywheel. 3. Hold the flywheel with the sheave holder, and remove the flywheel nut (B, Figure 31) and its washer (C). CAUTION The timing gear normally comes out with the flywheel. However, if it remains behind on the crankshaft, the six springs and six pins may get scattered. Be prepared to catch loose parts. Stuff rags into any openings in the crankcase so nothing falls into the case. 4. Install the flywheel puller and adapter onto the flywheel. (Figure 32). Make sure the puller is parallel to the flywheel. 5. Turn the pullers center screw and drive the rotor off the crankshaft. If necessary, adjust a puller screw to keep the puller parallel to the flywheel. 6. Remove the Woodruff key (A, Figure 33) from the crankshaft. Note that the timing mark (B, Figure 33) on the cam chain drive assembly aligns with the Woodruff key. 7. Remove the starter idler gear assembly (A, Figure 34) and the idler shaft (B) from the crankcase.

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ENGINE LOWER END

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536 8. If necessary, lift the timing gear (A, Figure 35) from the back of the flywheel. Remove each pin and spring (Figure 36) from the slots in the flywheel. Installation 1. Insert a pin into each spring (Figure 37). 2. Set the flywheel face down on the bench and install two sets of pins/springs into each slot on the back of the flywheel (Figure 36). Push the springs as far apart as possible. 3. Apply grease to the dogs (A, Figure 38) on the timing gear. 4. Position the timing gear so its index mark (B, Figure 35) aligns with the keyway on the flywheel, set the dogs between the springs in each flywheel slot and press the timing gear into place (A, Figure 35). 5. Mark the edge of the tooth (Figure 39) on either side of the timing mark so you can locate the mark as the flywheel is installed. 6. If the Woodruff key was removed, install it into the keyway in the crankshaft. 7. Install the starter idler gear assembly (A, Figure 34) into the crankcase. Secure it in place with the idler shaft (B, Figure 34). 8. Preload the cam chain drive assembly as follows: a. Cut a 6 15 mm pin from the shoulder (non-threaded portion) of a 6 mm bolt. b. Use a screwdriver or similar tool to pry the drive teeth on the gear until one set of teeth aligns with the other. c. Insert the 6 mm pin (Figure 40) into the aligned hole to lock the gear. 9. Make sure the rear cylinder is still set to top dead center. The timing mark on the cam chain drive as-

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146 sembly (B, Figure 33) aligns with the Woodruff key (or the crankshaft keyway) when the cylinder is at top dead center. 10. Position the flywheel so the two marked teeth (A, Figure 41) align with the Woodruff key in the crankshaft. Slide the flywheel onto the crankshaft so the keyway engages the Woodruff key (B, Figure 41), the starter wheel gear (C) engages the starter idler gear, and the timing gear (D) engages the cam chain drive assembly. 11. Install the washer (C, Figure 31) and flywheel nut (B). Hold the flywheel with the sheave holder and torque the flywheel nut to 175 Nm (129 ft.-lb.). Make sure the sheave holder does not cross any raised portion (A, Figure 31) of the flywheel. 12. Install the alternator cover as described earlier in this chapter.

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Flywheel Inspection 1. Clean the parts in solvent and dry them with compressed air. WARNING Replace a cracked or chipped flywheel. A damaged flywheel can fly apart at high speed, throwing metal fragments into the engine. Do not attempt to repair a damaged flywheel. 2. Inspect the flywheel (Figure 42) for cracks or breaks. Make sure the magnet is free of all metal parts. 3. Check the flywheel tapered bore and the crankshaft taper for damage. Replace damaged parts as necessary. 4. Inspect the threads of the flywheel nut bolt. Replace the nut if the threads are stretched or damaged. 5. Inspect the dogs (A, Figure 38) and teeth (B) on the timing gear for chips, cracks or other signs of damage. Replace the timing gear if there is any damage. If the teeth on the timing gear are damaged, also check the teeth on the gear of the cam chain drive assembly. 6. Check the operation of the starter clutch as described in this section. 43

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ENGINE LOWER END NOTE The one-way clutch and one-way clutch housing are not available separately. If either part is worn or damaged, replace the starter clutch assembly.

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4. The one-way clutch is faulty if it fails either test. Replace the starter clutch assembly. Starter Clutch Disassembly/Assembly Refer to Figure 28. 1. Remove the flywheel and remove the timing gear as described in this section. 2. Remove the snap ring (Figure 43) and washer (Figure 44). 3. Remove the bearing (A, Figure 45), then remove the starter wheel gear (B). 4. If necessary, remove the starter clutch bolts (A, Figure 46) and lift the starter clutch assembly (B) from the back of the flywheel. 5. Installation is the reverse of removal. Note the following: a. Apply a medium-strength threadlocking compound to the threads of each starter clutch bolt and install the bolts. b. Hold the rotor with the sheave holder and torque the starter clutch bolts to 12 Nm (106 in.-lb.). 6. Install the starter wheel gear into the starter clutch as follows: a. Set the rotor assembly face down on the bench. b. Set the bearing surface of the starter wheel gear between rollers (C, Figure 46) in the one-way clutch. c. Press the starter wheel gear down while rotating it clockwise. Gently press the gear until it bottoms within the one-way clutch. Starter Clutch Inspection 1. Inspect the teeth of the starter idler gears (A, Figure 47). Replace a gear if any teeth are worn, broken or missing. 2. Inspect the idler gear shaft and the bearing surface (B, Figure 47) of the starter idler gear assembly for nicks or other signs of damage. Replace the idler gear shaft or starter gear assembly if worn or damaged.

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Starter Clutch Operational Test 1. Set the flywheel on the bench so the starter clutch faces up as shown in Figure 36. 2. Hold the flywheel and turn the starter wheel gear clockwise. The wheel gear should turn freely within the starter clutch. 3. Hold the flywheel and try to turn the starter wheel gear counterclockwise. It should not turn in this direction.

148 3. Inspect the teeth (A, Figure 48) of the starter wheel gear. Replace the gear if any teeth are worn, broken or missing. 4. Inspect the bearing surface (B, Figure 48) of the starter wheel gear for nicks or scratches. Replace the wheel gear if it shows signs of wear. 5. Inspect the starter wheel gear bearing (Figure 49) for wear of other signs of damage. Replace the bearing as necessary. NOTE The one-way clutch and one-way clutch housing are not available separately. If either part is worn or damaged, replace the starter clutch assembly. 6. Inspect the rollers in the one-way clutch (C, Figure 46) for wear or damage. All the rollers should rotate freely. If there is damage or wear, replace the starter clutch assembly. OIL PUMP The V-Star 1100 uses a two-stage oil pump to lubricate the engine and the transmission. The primary side of the pump delivers oil to the oil filter, through the crankshaft and onto the upper end. The secondary side pumps oil to the transmission shafts. In general, this oil pump is not serviceable. The oil pump sprocket, sprocket cover and chain are the only parts that can be replaced; other parts are not available separately. If inspection reveals any faulty part(s), replace the oil pump. Removal/Installation 1. Drain the oil and remove the flywheel as described in this chapter. 2. Remove the cover bolts (A, Figure 50) and remove the sprocket cover (B) from the oil pump. 3. Hold the oil pump driven sprocket with a Grabbit or similar tool, and remove the oil pump driven sprocket bolt (A, Figure 51). 4. Pull the oil pump driven sprocket (B, Figure 51) from the shaft and remove the sprocket from the drive chain. 5. Remove the oil pump bolts (A, Figure 52) and pull the pump (B) from the crankcase. Watch for the dowel (A, Figure 53) and two O-rings (B) behind the pump.

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