Standing Seam Image II Install -...

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Metal Roofing Wholesalers LLC 1178 Topside Road- Louisville, TN 37777 Toll Free 1-877-646-6382 Tel: 865-379-7777 - Fax 865-982-4222 www.MetalRoofingWholesalers.com Standing Seam Install Guide Tel: (865) 379-7777 Toll Free (877) 646-6382 Fax (865) 982-4222 www.MetalRoofingWholesalers.com

Transcript of Standing Seam Image II Install -...

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Metal Roofing Wholesalers LLC1178 Topside Road- Louisville, TN 37777Toll Free 1-877-646-6382Tel: 865-379-7777 - Fax 865-982-4222www.MetalRoofingWholesalers.com

Standing Seam Install Guide

Tel: (865) 379-7777 Toll Free (877) 646-6382 Fax (865) 982-4222 www.MetalRoofingWholesalers.com

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This manual contains suggestions and guidelines on howto install Standing Seam panels. The drawings in thisguide are for illustration purposes only and may not applyto all building designs or product applications. Theinstallation details shown are proven methods ofconstruction, but are not intended to cover all instances,building requirements, designs, or codes. It is theresponsibility of the designer/installer to ensure that thedetails meet particular building requirements. Consultlocal building officials to determine the appropriatebuilding design load requirements. It is the buyer’sresponsibility to verify all applicable code requirements,check all

measurements, and determine suitability of product for thejob. The buyer is also responsible for determining lengthsand quantities needed. Prior to ordering and installingmaterials, all dimensions should be verified with fieldmeasurements. Implied warranties of merchantabilityand fitness for a particular purpose are disclaimed.

Metal Roofing Wholesalers reserves the right to modify, without notice, information in this guide. If you have questions regarding proper installation of Standing Seam or information not included in this guide, contact your salesperson.

IMPORTANT INFORMATION

Each job site presents different hazards; therefore it is theresponsibility of the buyer/installer to determine the safestway to install the Standing Seam roof panel system basedon the recommended instructions contained in this guide.Provide crew members working on the roof with requiredsafety equipment. If you walk on a metal roof, take greatcare. Metal panels can become

slippery, so always wear shoes with non-slip soles. Avoidworking on metal roofs during wet conditions when thepanels can become extremely slippery.

SAFETY

OSHA safety regulations should be complied with at all times.

Always wear protective gloves when working with steel panels to avoid cuts from sharp edges.When cutting or drilling steel panels, always wear safety glasses to prevent eye injury from flying metal fragments.

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INDEXInformation in the catalog may vary by plant location.

Please call your salesperson to verify product availability.

Introduction......................................................................4Design ...............................................................................5

Panel Installation ...................................................................6Roof Preparation.............................................................6Field Cutting ...................................................................6Condition of Substructure..............................................7General Installation .......................................................7-9Fastener Spacing..............................................................10

Concealed Fastener Trim Installation.............................17-19

Trims ......................................................................................10-15

Concealed FastenerTrims........................................................16

Accessories ..............................................................................20

Benefits of a Metal Roof...........................................................21Advantages.......................................................................21 Warranty.........................................................................21Ecological Benefits ..........................................................21-22Practical Benefits .............................................................23Maintenance....................................................................23

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The Standing Seam concealed fastener panel givesyou the leak resistance and beauty of a traditionalstanding seam roof without the expense andinstallation difficulty of clips. The fastening slotsallow the panel to easily expand and contract withtemperature changes. The 1” high rib provides asharp, well-defined look for residential and lightcommercial applications.

It can be used for roofing, mansards, or fascias. Thepanels must be applied over a solid substrate on roofpitches of 3:12 or greater. With proper handling andinstallation, Standing SeamTM will provide yearsof outstanding performance and beauty.

INTRODUCTION

SPECIFICATIONS

Colors and Finishes:Standing SeamTM is available in 26 gauge prepaintedor bare Galvalume steel. See your representative for acolor chart.

Widths:The Standing SeamTM panel provides 16” coverage.The minor striations provide strength and reducethe incidence of oil canning in the panel.

Lengths:The Standing SeamTM panel is custom cut to thehalf-inch, in lengths from 3’ to 40’. Longer lengthsrequire additional handling, packaging, andshipping considerations. An extra handling chargemay apply to panels over 40’. Standing SeamTM panelscannot be end-lapped. You must order full lengthpanels to avoid end laps.

Rib Height:Standing SeamTM has a 1” high rib, making it anexcellent choice for residential and lightcommercial applications.

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DESIGN

CALCULATIONS FOR DETERMINING PANEL LENGTHOne of the trickiest parts of installing a steel roof is ordering the materials correctly. Metal Roofing Wholsalers precuts each piece according to your order, to the nearest 1/2" (from 3' to 40'), so you must first figure out exactly how many pieces you’ll need and how long each piece must be.

To figure the length of each section, measure fromthe top edge of the sheathing (where the roofingwill end) to the bottom edge. If the roof will include a ridge vent, the plywood decking and panels should be held 2" back from the ridge. If you are doing anexposed screw at the eave, add about one inch. Ifyou are hemming the panels around an extendedeave, add 2.5". If you are not sure how much to add, call and discuss yourproject with a representative.

Trim and flashing are available to match the color of the roofing. Each type of trim and flashing must be anticipated and included in the order. Trim piecescome in 10' or 10'2" lengths. Adding the total footage and dividing by 10' or10'2" might force you to use short pieces to finish a run, so it’s better to orderthe number of pieces needed to complete each separate run.

You may need painted self-tapping screws withgaskets. Painted screws are used for some trims andwherever a screw has to be left exposed to theweather. The screws that secure the roofing panelsare hidden, so 1" low profile pancake head screwsare used.

Peak, Ridge, Endwall, Hip:

Panels should be started 1" down from edge orpeak (length of run minus 1"). If ridge or peak isventilated, start sheet down 2" from edge or

peak. This could vary depending on the typeof ventilation being used.

Proper design and installation of ventilation systemsare important to prevent condensation and theresulting problems of moisture damage and loss ofinsulation efficiency.

Condensation occurs when moisture-laden air comesin contact with a surface temperatureequal to or below the dew point of the air. Thisphenomenon creates problems that are not uniquewith metal buildings; they are common to all typesof construction.

In addition to providing resistance to heat transfer,insulation can also protect against condensationforming on cold surfaces, either inside thebuilding or within the wall/roof system cavity. Thearrangement of the building’s insulation system andvapor retarder is the responsibility of the buildingdesigner. These are some basic guidelines to helpcontrol condensation in a metal building:

• The insulation should have a vapor retarderface on the “warm” side of the insulation. Formost buildings, this means that the vaporretarder is on the inside surface (toward thebuilding’s interior).

• The thickness of the insulation must bedesigned to maintain the temperature ofthe vapor retarder above the interior dewpoint, using the worst-case expectedoutside temperature.

• All perimeter conditions, seams, andpenetrations of the vapor retarder must beadequately sealed in order to provide acontinuous membrane to resist the passage ofwater vapor.

• Building ventilation, whether by gravity ridgevent, power-operated fans, or other means,contributes significantly to reducedcondensation. The movement of air to theoutside of the building reduces the interior levelof vapor pressure.

On buildings that have an attic space or are beingretrofitted with a metal roofing system, properventilation needs to be used in order to prevent abuildup of moisture (humidity) in the attic space.

Contact your local building code officialsor an engineer on proper ventilationpractices for your area.

INSULATION AND VENTILATION

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Reminders:• Standing SeamTM is designed to be installed over

solid decking.• Make sure any existing decking is smooth, level

and in good condition. Replace any decking notmeeting those requirements.

• In most cases Standing Seam can be installedover existing shingles. Check local buildingcodes to confirm this is possible in your area.

• If installing over existing shingles, Metal Roofing Wholesalers recommends the use of 30 lb felt or synthetic underlayment over the shingles first to keep the rough side off the shingles off the backside of the panels.

• Make sure the roof is clear of any debris thatmight interfere with installation.

• Use an alignment or “chalk” line where the first panel is installed. Metal Roofing Wholesalers recommends that this line be vertical and 1/4" from the rake edge of the roof deck and square with the eave. Other methods of confirming the squareness can also be used.

PANEL INSTALLATION

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There are a number of ways to cut sheet metal quickly and accurately. Tin snips or a “nibbler” type electric tool arerecommended for field cutting Standing SeamTM panels. A TurboShear drill attachment works well for long cuts.Cutting over a trash barrel will help catch the tiny metal shavings that the machine produces.

Metal Roofing Wholesalers does not reccommend cutting panels with a circular or abresive saw.

The main problem is that the heat produced has a negative effect on the paint and substrate adhesion, causing it toprematurely corrode. The other problem is that the metal slivers produced can become embedded into the panelsurface.

You can use a special non-heating metal blade designed for metal roofing to prevent the heat. To prevent the metalchips from becoming embedded into the surface, panels can be flipped over when cutting. This allows the slivers andmetal chips to be brushed from the back side and avoids damaging the paint on the top side of the panels.

All product surfaces should be free of debris at all times. Installed surfaces should be wiped clean at the end ofeach work period. Never cut panels over metal surfaces. Metal shavings will rust on the surface. When cuttingmetal panels, goggles must be worn for eye protection.

FIELD CUTTING

ROOF PREPARATION

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CONDITION OF SUBSTRUCTURE

Familiarize yourself with all installation instructionsbefore starting work. Before beginning installation, youshould examine the substrate or framing to ensure thatall supporting members are straight, level, and plumbto avoid any panel distortion. Substructures should bedesigned to meet all necessary code requirements.

Some field cutting and fitting of panels and trimsis to be expected by the installer and minor fieldcorrections are a part of normal installation work.

It is the responsibility of the installer to ensure a suitable substrate prior to the application of Standing SeamTM. Distortion in the panel caused by an uneven substrate, ripples, or laps in the vapor barrier, debris, protruding nails and staples, etc., are not defectsin the materials and are not the responsibility of MetalRoofing Wholesalers.All trims, tools,and accessories shown on the installation drawings are available from Metal Roofing Wholesalers unless noted otherwise.

Oil canning in the flat area of the panels is commonto the industry and does not affect the integrityof the panel. Therefore, oil canning is not a reasonfor rejection. Striations greatly reduce the chance ofthis happening.

The panels should be installed plumb, straight, andsquare to the eave. To keep the bottom edge of theroof perfectly straight and even, the panels must beinstalled square to the bottom edge. Begin by checkingthe roof for square; if it is square, you may pull thelayout marks directly from the edge of the rake.

If the roof isn’t perfectly square, install the first panelparallel to your square line, making sure that the firstrib does not hang over the gable edge of the roofsheathing. (Any overhang can prevent the gable trimfrom fitting tight against the rake.)

Panel distortion may occur if not applied over properlyaligned and uniform substructure.

The installer should check the roof deck for squarenessbefore installing Standing SeamTM panels. Severalmethods can be used to verify squareness of thestructure for proper installation of the panels.

Method A – One method for checking the roof forsquareness is to measure diagonally across one slope ofthe roof from similar points at the ridge and eave andobtain the same dimension.

Method B – The 3-4-5 triangle system may alsobe used. To use this system, measure a point fromthe corner along the edge of the roof at a moduleof three (3). Measure a point from the same corneralong another edge at a module of four (4). Then,by measuring diagonally between the two pointsestablished, the dimension should be exactly a moduleof five (5) to have a square corner. Multiple uses ofthis system may be required to determine buildingsquareness. If the endwall cannot be made squareadditional adjustments will have to be made.

GENERAL INSTALLATION

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Figure 1

Figure 3

Figure 2

4" 4"

Figure 4

GENERAL INSTALLATION (cont.)

Figure 5

Figure 6

1. Align the female edge of the first panel with thechalk line that was snapped at the rake edge. Thisline can be 0" – 1 3/4" from the rake. Panel shouldoverhang eave 1". See Figure 1.

2. Panels should be installed perpendicular to ridge forridge trim attachment.

3. Check panel allignment. If panel is properly aligned,attach rake edge to roof with a 1" painted neoprenewoodgrip spaced at 48" on center. See Figure 2. Thenfasten the panel along the male edge fastening flangewith 1" low profile pancake head. Special care has tobe taken not to overdrive the screws in the male edgefastening flange. The screw flange is slotted to allowfor slight panel movement during normal expansionand contraction. To avoid panel distortion and toallow for maximum expansion and contraction of thepanel, the screws should be snugged against theflange, but not so snug that the flange deflects under thescrew head. To allow for movement of the paneltowards the eave or ridge, place the fastener in themiddle of the 5/8" slot. See fastener spacing sectionon page 12.1.

4. Align the second panel female edge with the starterpanel male edge. See Figure 3. Panels must be flush toone another. Remember, panels should extend overeave trim by 1".

5. Lightly compress and snap panels together at seam.Snap panels from eave to ridge. Screw the secondpanel in place using 1" pancake head screw in themale edge fastening flange.6. Continue to apply panels as in steps 4 and 5.7. Panels at the eave can be terminated in twoways. Each will depend on aesthetic considerationdetermined by the installer or building owner.

A. Panels can be fastened along the eave with a#10 x 1" painted neoprene woodgrip fastener. Fastenalong a line parallel to the eave edge and 3" up fromthe eave edge. The fasteners can be spaced 4" apart inthe minor rib striations as shown in Figure 4.

When using the extended eave conditionto terminate the eave, panels must be

ordered 2-1/2" longer than your eave length to accountfor the drip edge lip and the panel’s hem.

B. Panels can also be terminated with a hemmingtool to provide a smoother appearance. Cut throughmale and female legs/ribs 1" up from panel end asshown in Figure 5.

Then cut on inside of major ribs with metal shearsas shown in Figure 6.

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Place hemming tool over panel tab. Bend down and under to 180˚ as shown in Figures 7 and 8.

The panel is then ready to be installed over the Extended Eave trim, using the lip on the trim to secure the panel inplace at the eave.

*NOTE: When using the extended eave condition, the panel length must be ordered 2 1/2" longer than youreave to account for the xtended eave lip and the panel hem.

Figure 7

Hem

Figure 8

GENERAL INSTALLATION (cont.)

ExtendedEave Trim

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Screwing down the roof panels always goes quickly.Installing the trim is the more time-consuming part.Some trim options use attached with gasketed screws;take care to drive the screws enough to flatten theneoprene washer but not enough to deflect the roofingor the trim.

The tricky part is finishing the ends of each trimrun. It may take a bit more time, but cutting andfolding the ends of the trim will give the roof amore finished look.

When hooking the hem, measure overon hem 3" from end of trim piece. Cut

hem 1/8" up from the bend to 3" mark. Cut off backof hem. On lap piece, open up hem with screwdriver.Insert piece. Slide together.

Exposed Eave Trim (details page 11)

Eave trim must be installedprior to panel installation.Also, panel should overhangthe eave 1" minimum. Attacheave trim to roof decking with1" pancake head fastener.Caulk and lap the trim aminimum of 3", hooking the hem. Install panel andfasten at eave with painted 1" WoodgripTM

fastener.See Exposed Eave Trim Figure 9.

*NOTE: We reccommend the hidden fastenerextended eave option found on page 18, with panelends cut and hemmed as shown on pages 8-9.

Exposed Rake Trim (details page 14.1)

Exposed Rake trim shouldbe installed from the bottomof the roof, working up tothe peak with each upperpiece overlapping the onebelow. Place butyl tape along the rake trim’s flange.Install rake trim over rib. Fasten using 1”painted woodgrips at 12" o.c. Caulk and lap the raketrim about 2-3". Miter cut the rake trim at the peak tojoin each side at the ridge. Cut and fold the rake atthe eave to seal the end. Use painted blind rivets tofasten.

TRIMS

Exposed Eave Trim

ExposedRake Trim

FASTENER SPACING

Maximum fastener spacing * for 16" wide 26 gaugepanels with wind loads up to 80 mph:

Deck Thickness Spacing1/2" 12 - 18" o.c.5/8" 21" o.c.3/4" 24" o.c.

At the other end of the roof, again make sure thatthe last panel does not stick out past the edge of thebarge rafter. If you don’t end with a rib along the edge,measure the remaining distance, add an inch and cutthe panel to that width. The extra inch of material isbent up with a hand seamer to form a rib.

Figure 9

Panel

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Attach eave trim as shown with #10 x 1" low profile pancake fastener. Open the hem of the next trim forapproximately 4". Caulk and lap the trim a minimum of 3" hooking the hem. Install panel and fasten at eave with#10 x 1" Woodgrip screw. Additional ice and water shields may be required if climate is extreme.

Exposed Fastened Eave - DetailsExtended Eave trim must be installed prior to panel installation. Also, panel should overhang the eave 1" minimum.

Panel

ExposedEave Trim

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ExposedRake Trim

Exposed Fastened Rake - Details

Begin by aligning Standing Seam panel flush to the gable end of the building and attaching the flange side of thepanel with pancake head screws. Assemble the Exposed Rake Trim with #10 x 1" washered screws as shown withscrews 18" to 24" apart.

Pancake head screws should be placed 12" to 18" on center along the flange at flush depth.

BE SURE FASTENER HEADS ARE FLUSH WITH THE PANEL FLANGE. DO NOT OVERDRIVESCREW AS IT WILL INCREASE OIL CANNING IN THE PANEL. DO NOT UNDERDRIVE SCREWSOR THEY WILL LEAVE BUMPS ON THE SNAP LOCK EDGE.

Panel

PANELPANEL

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Ridge and Hip Caps (details page 15.1)

Rake trim mustbe installed

prior to installing the ridge.Panels must be field cutat hip.

Attach zee closure parallelto closure ridge. Fastenhip/ridge trim to the zeeusing lap screws or preferablypop rivets. Caulk, lap andfasten the subsequent trims.

Place a short section of ridge cap on one end of thepeak so it lies evenly side to side. Mark the outsideedges, then repeat the process at the other end. Snapchalklines between the marks, and set the ridge capon these lines as it’s installed.

Exposed Valley Trim (details page 16.1)

Exposed Valleytrim must be

installed prior to panelinstallation. Panels mustbe field cut at an angle.

Place another layer of 36" roof felt on valleycenterline with 18" of paper on each side of center.Begin placing valley trim at eave with a 1" overhang.Caulk and lap the sequential valley trims a minimumof 6". Parallel to the valley, place butyl tape sealant6" from valley center. Field cut the panels allowingfor overlap with valley trim and hem. Make cutsthrough male/female rib (depending on side) atthe angle required for the specific roof slope. Afterpanels are field cut and attached, fasten along bottomend using four 1" Woodgrips per panel. Make surefasteners are evenly spaced and penetrate the row ofbutyl tape. Seal panel end with tube caulking.

After the trim has been installed, the final step is todrive two evenly-spaced gasketed screws along thebottom edge of each panel.

Hip Cap

Exposed Valley(can be used as hiddenfastened with offset cleats)

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Ridge & Hip Trim Details – Exposed FastenedRake trim must be installed prior to installing the ridge. Panels must be field cut at hip.

Panels should end parallel to the ridge. Attach zee closure parallel to closure ridge. Fasten hip/ridge trim to the zeeusing #14 x 7/8" Lap/screw. Caulk, lap (minimum of 6" hooking the hem) and fasten the subsequent trims.

Panel

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Valley Trim Details – Exposed FastenedValley trim must be installed prior to panel installation. Panels must be field cut.

Place another layer of 36" roof felt on valley centerline with 18" of paper on each side of center. Begin placingvalley trim at eave with a 1" overhang. Caulk and lap the sequential valley trims a minimum of 6". Parallel tothe valley, place tape sealant 6" from valley center as shown. Field cut the panels allowing for overlap with valleytrim. Make cuts through male/female rib (depending on side) at the angle required for the specific roof slope. Cutout shaded or marked area with sheet metal shears. After panels are field cut and attached, fasten along bottomend using four (4) #10 x 1" WoodgripsTM per panel. Make sure fasteners are evenly spaced and penetrate the rowof tape sealant. Seal panel end with tube caulking. Additional ice and water shields may be required if climate isextreme.

Panel

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CONCEALED FASTENER TRIMS

Decking

Panel

Drip Edge

Panel

Sidewall Trim

PanelZee closure

Cleat

Decking

Panel

Butyl Tape

Panel

Zee closure

Open Hem Transition

Decking

Panel

Zee closure

Rake Trim

DeckingCleat

Panel ButylTape

Decking

Panel Panel

Open Hem Valley Trim

Panel

Zee closurePanel

Decking

ButylTape

Panel

Zee closure

Ridgecap

TOOLSHand Snips Notchers Rivet Hole Punch Hand Riveter Folding Tools 6” Hand Seamer

ExtendedEave Trim

Cleat

Rake Trim

Zee Closure

Ridge Cap

Sidewall

Transition

Valley

Cleat

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INSTALLATION OF TRIMS

DRIP EDGEWhen ordering panels, be sure to add an extra 2” to the length for hemmingover the drip edge. (One inch covers the drip edge and one inch is hemmedunder).1. Screw the drip edge to the decking.2. Notch the Standing Seam panels at the rib (1 inch from the end

of the panel).3. Using the folding tool, fold the panel at the notching so that the

unpainted sides of the panel are facing each other.4. Slide panel over drip edge and screw into decking.5. Repeat steps 2-4 for each Standing Seam panel along the drip edge.

Decking

Panel

Drip Edge

Zee closure

Rake Trim

DeckingCleat

Panel ButylTape

RAKE TRIM1. Install the cleat along the rake of the roof and install Standing Seam

panel on top of the cleat. The edge of the panel should meet with theedge of the rake.

2. Install zee closure on top of the panel. Use butyl tape beneath toensure proper sealing. Run the zee along the length of the rake andscrew down to the panel.

3. Install the rake trim over the cleat and zee. Pop rivet the rake to the zeealong the joints and every 1-2 feet along the rake.

Overlap trims a minimum of 3” with butyl tape between laps.

Cleat

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INSTALLATION OF TRIMS

Decking

Panel Panel

Open Hem Valley Trim

VALLEY TRIM1. Using the folding tool, hem the end of the valley 1 inch and slide over

drip edge (if drip edge is being used).2. Install valley to decking, placing screws as far up as possible on the

4-7/8” section of the valley.3. Hem the panel at a 45° angle (or according to the valley pitch) where it

meets the valley and slide under the open hem on the valley.4. Repeat step 3 for each panel as it meets the valley.Overlap trims a minimum of 6” with butyl tape between laps.

Panel

Sidewall Trim

PanelZee closure

SIDEWALL & ENDWALL TRIM1. Install Standing SeamTM panels up to the sidewall. Install zee closure on

top of the panel along the sidewall using butyl tape to ensure propersealing. For endwall, zee closures will need to be cut in 15-1/2” lengthsand screwed to the panel.

2. Install the sidewall trim over the zee and screw into sidewall. Pop rivetthe sidewall trim to the zee closure about.

3. Repeat steps 1 and 2 for each panel along the sidewall.4. Install Standing Seam panels over the sidewall.Overlap trims a minimum of 3” with butyl tape between laps.

Panel

Many plants do not have an Open Hem ValleyFlashing. At these plants, use a standard valley and twooffset cleats to get the same hidden fastener result.See the trim details guide for more information.

Offset Cleats

Standard Valley

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INSTALLATION OF TRIMS

Butyl Tape

Panel

Zee closure

Open Hem Transition

Decking

Panel

TRANSITION TRIM1. Install the bottom Standing Seam panels and attach zee closures.

Zee closures will need to be cut in 15-1/2” lengths and screwed tothe panel. Use butyl tape to ensure proper sealing.

2. Install the transition trim over zee, and screw transition to upperdecking.

3. Notch and hem panel 1” and slide over open hem on transition.Screw panel to decking.

4. Repeat steps 1 through 3 for each panel along the transition.Overlap trims a minimum of 3” with butyl tape between laps.

Decking

ButylTape

Panel

Zee closure

Ridgecap

RIDGECAP1. Install panels on both sides of roof up to the ridge, and install zee

closures. Zee closures will need to be cut in 15-1/2” lengths andscrewed to the panel. Use butyl tape to ensure proper sealing.

2. Install ridgecap over zee closures and pop rivet to the zee every'and at joints.

When overlapping ridgecap, cut 6” off bottom hem of the underlapping ridgecapand slide upper ridgecap over. Pop rivet with sealant on each lap. Overlap trimsa minimum of 6” with butyl tape or sealant between laps.

Many plants do not have an Open Hem Transition. Atthese plants, use a standard transition and an offsetcleat to get the same hidden fastener result.See the trim details guide for more information.

Offset Cleat

Standard Transition

Step Ridgecaps are alsoavailable.

Vented Ridgeis available.Remove Z-Closure andadd ventmaterial andvent clips (2per panel).

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Pipe Flashings

Anything that goes through a metal roof is apotential cause for a leak. Small penetrations such asplumbing vents or gas vents are sealed with specialflashings made specifically for metal roofing. Theseflashings consist of a conical boot (EPDM) and a softflat flexible flange.

Flashing is easier to apply if it falls between the majorribs, but is not necessary. First, caulking or 7/8 butyltape is applied to the bottom of the flange. Then theflashing is pushed down over the pipe until the flangecontacts the roof. Next, drive gasketed screws everyinch or so around the perimeter of the flange.

Available Pipe Flashings:MPF Fits 1/2" to 4" pipesMPF2 Fits 1 1/4" to 3" pipesMPF4 Fits 3" to 6" pipesMPF6 Fits 5" to 9" pipesMPF7 Fits 6" to 11" pipesMPF8 Fits 7" to 13" pipesMPF1ZIP Fits 1/2" to 4" pipes (zippered flash)

Touch-Up Paint

All painted panels and trims have a factory appliedbaked-on finish. Handling and installing panels mayresult in some small scratches or nicks to the paintfinish. Surface scratches which are not too obviousfrom a distance of six feet are generally best leftuntouched, since normal soiling and weathering willmask them. Touch-up paint is available in matchingcolors for

other small blemishes. Touch-up paint does not havethe superior chalk and fade resistance of the factoryapplied paint finish and will normally discolor at anaccelerated rate; therefore, touch-up painting of largeareas is not recommended. Periodic touch-up maybe required to maintain color match. There is nowarranty on touch-up paint in regards to color matchbecause the paint processes are different. Touch-uppaint should be used sparingly and only to cover upthose areas where paint has been removed. Areas tobe touched-up should be wiped with mineral spiritsto remove dirt, wax or other contaminants beforecolored touch-up is applied.

Other Available Accessories:

Butyl TapeClosures (w/adhesive)Painted Metal-to-Wood Screws

(1", 1 1/2", 2", 2 1/2", 3")Ridge Vent

Tripolymer sealant

ACCESSORIES

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With today’s heightened interest in and demand forecologically-sound building materials, metal roofingrises to the top as the product of choice for all typesof construction. The Metal Construction Associationardently supports that metal roofing should be includedon all lists of environmentally-friendly or “green”roofing materials.

The ecological benefits of metal roofing include:

• Sustainability – Metal roofing’s durability canvirtually eliminate the need for future rawmaterials to be used to produce roofing. Otherroofing materials are heavily affected by weatherextremes. Metal roofing, however, is unaffectedby the hot-cold/wet-dry weather cycle that breaksdown other materials. In addition, it is known forits ability to hold up against other weather

extremes including windstorms, hail, ice, andsnow. No other roofing material has greater abilityto withstand a wider range of weather conditionsthan metal. There are many hand-made metalroofs still in existence that date back to the1800s. Commercially-produced metal roofingsystems have been available since about 1910;numerous profiles and types have been producedsince then and there are examples of these roofsacross the country. While some metal roofs arequite long lasting and durable with exposedmetallic surfaces, modern technology has alsobrought quality paint systems that beautify metalroofing and are warranted for thirty years. Ifnecessary many years in the future, metal roofs canbe repainted for additional life. As America’shomes and other structures age, it is imperativethat we choose long-term building products;the sustainability of metal roofing fits that rolevery well.

BENEFITS OF A METAL ROOF

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In addition to its fire resistance, steel roofing islong-lasting, lightweight, easy to install, and easy tomaintain. Asphalt shingles degrade when exposed tosun, wind and carpenters’ feet. The painted finish on ametal roof will not break down from exposure to wind,rain, sleet, or snow. And because metal roofing is onesolid panel from eaves to peak and is screwed to theroof sheathing, it’s not likely to blow off in a gale asasphalt shingles often do.

Tile roofing is resistant to fire as well as weather, but itsrough surface can collect leaves and debris, especiallyin roof valleys. Removing debris from a tile roof iscomplicated by the fact that walking on the tiles candamage them. Walking on a steel roof installed oversolid decking will not damage the steel. Also, thesmooth painted surface of steel roofing discouragesdebris from accumulating. And when properlyinstalled, it’s just plain tough to beat the crisp, clean,colorful lines of a steel roof.

ADVANTAGES

WARRANTY

ECOLOGICAL BENEFITS OF METAL ROOFS

Our 26 gauge Galvalume steel roofing carries a 25 year warranty and a 40-year limited warranty on the painted system.

For more details, copies of both warranties are includedin this packet.

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• Recycled Content – As consumers, many of us arecareful to collect our recyclable materials and turnthem in for collection. In reality, though, we areoffered very few consumer products where we can“close the loop” by purchasing products that arehigh in recycled content. Metal roofing, however,offers that option to consumers by allowing themto choose a significant building product on thebasis of its recycled content. Most metal roofs haverecycled content ranging from 25% to 30%. Thisis in stark contrast to conventional roofingshingles that have much shorter lives and use oil-based products as their primary raw material.

• Recyclability – While metal roofing is known forits extremely long life, it does have the addedbenefit of being 100% recyclable if it is everremoved in the future, perhaps as part of a buildingrenovation. Whereas other old roofing materialsare disposed of by the ton in landfills across thecountry each year, the steel used in metal roofingcan be recycled in their entirety, potentially evento become another metal roof.

• Low weight – In comparison to heavy tile andslate roofing, the weight of metal roofing isminimal. This low weight serves several valuablepurposes. First, it puts less weight load on astructure. This helps extend the life of buildingsand it also provides invaluable protection againstroof cave-in threat in the event of seismic activity.However, with retrofit applications, many metalroofs can be installed over the old roofing material.This has a very positive benefit by preventing theneed to remove the old roof and fill up valuablelandfill space. Each year, about 20 billion poundsof old composition roofing shingles are dumpedinto U.S. landfills. Metal roofing is the way toavoid this. Additionally, metal’s low weight andhigh strength presents an ideal way to coverand encapsulate existing asbestos roofing shinglesrather than pose a health risk by removingthem and putting them in a landfill. State EPAoffices support this practice of asbestosshingle encapsulation.

• Product Safety – Metal roofing and the finishesused on it are very inert, safe materials that donot pose a health risk. Of course, one roofingmaterial that has turned out to be very dangerousis the asbestos shingle roofing. This material wasused extensively many years ago and now, havingrealized the health hazards it poses, we’re spending

many dollars each year to get rid of. This worrydoes not exist with metal. The fact that metalroofing has zero “out-gassing” also makes it idealfor consumers with chemical sensitivities. Today’scommercially-produced metal roofing systems arecarefully tested on an ongoing basis forperformance, wind resistance, fire resistance, andhail resistance. They are listed with variousbuilding codes and entities includingUnderwriters Laboratories, International Congressof Building Officials, Dade County, Florida,Southern Building Code Congress International,and others.

• Energy Efficiency – Metal roofing is rapidly gainingacceptance as a very energy efficient material.Property owners have reported energy savings of ashigh as 20% and even more after installing metalroofing. The reflectivity and subsequent energyefficiency of metal roofing has been confirmed instudies done by Florida Solar Energy Center,Florida Power and Light, Oak Ridge NationalLaboratory, and other independent organizations.Many available metal roofs are being documentedto meet Energy Star requirements. This canhave a tremendous impact on energy usage byreducing air conditioning costs and the smog andpollution that are created by the production ofthat energy. Additionally, the low thermal mass ofmetal roofing means that it dissipates heat veryquickly once the sun goes behind a cloud or setsfor the day. Other roofing materials have greaterthermal mass and will continue to radiate capturedheat into the structures beneath them even whenthe sun is not shining.

ECOLOGICAL BENEFITS (cont.)

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With a little care and attention during service,a prepainted Galvalume® sheet will provide anextended service life. While durable, factory-appliedfinishes for metal building panels will last many yearslonger than ordinary paints; they should be cleanedthoroughly on a routine basis whenever the finishis not washed by rain. Applications where the paintfinish is automatically washed by rain, such as roofing,do not require this maintenance.

Cleaning restores the appearance of the building,making repainting unnecessary, and maintains apleasing appearance, as well as removing the buildupof corrosive materials. Applications requiringmaintenance cleaning include soffits, siding undereaves, garage doors and the undersides of eave gutters.

Cleaning

In many cases, washing the painted surface with cleanwater from a garden hose will remove most of the dirtand accumulated deposits. Ideally, washing should bedone at least every six months and more frequentlyin coastal areas where marine salt spray is prevalentor where high levels of industrial fallout occur. Incases where spray washing is ineffective in cleaningstubborn dirt, mild detergents or household ammoniasolutions can be used as described below. In all cases,test a small unobtrusive area for color-fastness beforecleaning large areas.

• Use one cup of Tide® (or other commondetergent containing less than 0.5% phosphate)dissolved in five gallons of warm water.NOTE: Detergents containing greater than 0.5%phosphate are not recommended for use ingeneral cleaning of building panels.

• OR use one cup of household ammonia dissolvedin five gallons of water at room temperature.Never mix ammonia with any kind of bleach.

• Never blend cleaners and bleach yourself. Ifbleach and detergent are required, use detergentscontaining bleach.

Using either solution, work from the top to thebottom of panels with a well-soaked soft cloth,sponge, brush with very soft bristles, or low-pressurespray washer to clean the surface. Washing fromthe top down avoids streaking. Application shouldbe gentle to prevent shiny spots. Scouring powdersor industrial solvents are not recommended, sincethey may damage the paint film. Solvent-containingcleaners such as Fantastik® are very effective and canbe used.

If mildew or other fungal growth is a problem andcannot be removed as described above, detergentcontaining bleach, such as Tide® with Bleach, isrecommended. The surface should be thoroughlyrinsed with water after cleaning to remove tracesof detergent.

Some interesting work has been done and/or isunderway. Here are some highlights:

• Florida Power & Light built six identical 1700 S.F.residences in Ft. Meyers. They found paintedmetal roofs save 23% in energy costs overasphalt shingles.

• A study at a Florida university shows attictemperatures to be 30˚ F lower withprepainted metal roofs vs. asphalt shingles.

• Calculations indicate a large city converting toprepainted metal roofing could reduce energy costsby $1,000,000. Due to less power demand, therewould be significantly reduced air pollution and itsassociated health benefits.

• Maintenance – The only recommendedmaintenance is a routine washing withclean water.

MAINTENANCE

PRACTICAL BENEFITS

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(865) 379-7777 Toll Free (877) 646-6382 Fax (865) 982-4222 www.MetalRoofingWholesalers.com