STANDARD 1

Students will use intermediate sewing, serging, and pressing techniques.

Objective 1: Identify sewing machine parts and their functions (adjust stitch length

with various fabric

thickness/purpose).

1. _______________controls the movement of the take up lever and needle; can be controlled by hand or power; should always be turned towards you. 2. _______________ turns off/ on machine and light bulb 3. _______________ adjusts the tension on the thread as required for a particular project. 4. _______________ holds the thread inside the machine. 5. ________________ holds fabric in place while you sew. 6. ________________ holds the bobbin while winding the bobbin. 7. _________________ a place to cut threads without using scissors 8. ________________ pulls thread from the spool 9. ________________ carries the thread and pierces the fabric 10. _______________ shows you which pattern the machine will sew 11. _______________ controls how fast the sewing machine sews 12. _______________ moves fabric as you sew 13. _______________ holds the bobbin; allows the bobbin to turn and stitch; provides bobbin tension 14. _______________ allows machine to stitch backwards 15. _______________ holds the spool of thread in place 16.________________ sets the width of the zig zag stitch 17. _______________ provides tension on thread when winding bobbin 18. _______________ lifts and lowers the presser foot Bobbin Bobbin case Bobbin winder spindle Bobbin winder tension Feed dog Foot control Hand wheel Power switch Needle Presser foot Reverse control Presser foot lever Spool Pin Stitch pattern selector Stitch width control Take up lever Thread cutter Thread tension control

a. Explain the use of specialty feet (zipper, buttonhole, blind hem, and

additional feet).

These are standard presser feet. This kind of foot has

quite a few names: the standard foot, zigzag foot,

universal presser foot, all-purpose foot, and general

purpose presser foot. It doesn't really matter what you

call it unless you are buying one and have to tell the

salesperson or search engine. It has a wide needle hole

that fits the widest stitch on your sewing machine.

This is a two-sided zipper foot. It snaps onto your

sewing machine like any other snap-on presser foot, but

instead of snapping on in the center, you snap it onto

either the left or the right side of the center of the foot.

It lets you get closer to what you are sewing than you

can get with the standard presser foot. The one in the

picture is the one that came with my Brother Sewing

Machine.

These are buttonhole feet. The small one (called

a sliding buttonhole foot) is for a four-step buttonhole

and the bigger one (called an automatic buttonhole

foot) is for a 1-step buttonhole.

With the sliding buttonhole foot you have to measure

the button and make the buttonhole in 4-steps on your

sewing machine. You cannot use this foot on a sewing

machine that makes a 1-step buttonhole.

With the automatic buttonhole foot, you just fit your button in the gauge at the

back of the foot, lower the presser foot, and pull down the buttonhole lever on your

sewing machine. It is important to raise the lever after every buttonhole and pull it

down when the presser foot is down because if you don't you may not get

good buttonholes - one side will be shorter than the other.

b. Review owner’s manual for care and specific maintenance of the machine.

Objective 2: Identify the parts of the serger and their functions

a. Identify the needle stitch plate, feed dogs/system, presser foot, thread tensions,

presser

foot lever/lifter, handwheel, stitch length control, knives and loopers.

b. Operate and care for serger according to machine manual (clean, oil).

Objective 3: Practice advanced pressing techniques.

PRESSING AND IRONING

PRESS as you sew must be a guiding principal if you

want a custom made look in the clothes you sew.

Only by pressing as you sew can you achieve perfection in

the garment/item. Pressing is as much a part of clothing

construction as cutting and stitching. Pressing can determine the

success or failure of the garment/item. It is important because it

helps make and keep the shape of the garment/item.

Pressing is the smoothing and shaping of fabric by an up –

and – down lifting and lowering of the iron to bring pressure

directly down on the area to be pressed, usually with moisture or

steam. Frequently a pressing cloth, either dry or wet is used

between the iron and fabric. If the fabric is delicate, then a dry

cloth is used; if the fabric is so sheer or delicate that a line will show

from the pressing, then use the dry cloth between the seam and

the fabric so you can press the seam flat but not put a line on the

top side of the fabric. If the fabric is more difficult to get a flat

seam when pressed, then a wet press cloth may be used to give

extra moisture and steam to the seam to flatten it. The amount

of pressure applied to the seam is determined by the person

putting pressure on the iron.

Pressing differs from ironing, because in pressing the iron is

simply pressed down firmly and then lifted and moved to another

spot (remember not to hold until the item is burned). When

ironing the hot iron is pushed down firmly and moved back and

forth in long strokes to remove wrinkles; the temperature of the is

important to adjust to the fabric so as not to burn the item, but

apply sufficient heat to remove wrinkles. Pressing exerts

PRESSURE DOWN on the fabric while IRONING exerts PRESSURE

ACROSS THE FABRIC.

WHEN TO PRESS:

1. Press to remove wrinkles in fabric before cutting. (If using

cotton, woven fabric, always prewash and dry fabric to

remove finishes that were put on the fabric at the

manufacturer; then press wrinkles before cutting.)

2. Press all seams before crossing with another _______________

^^^^Press firmly^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

then lift^^^^^^^^ ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

^^^^^^^^^ seam ^^^^^^^^^^^^^

________________________________________________________

3. In garments, press all darts because this creates the shape.

a. Press darts flat. Smooth the line of stitching and

crease the center fold of the dart by pressing in the

same position as the stitching was done.

b. Block dart. Shape the dart over a pressing ham, a

cushion, or the small end of a pressing board.

4. Never press over pins (pin marks will show in fabric) or

temporary stitching or basting. Pressing helps to “set” the

stitching into the fabric so be sure the seam is correct before

stitching. If a seam must be removed, gently remove seam

before pressing to make removal easier and prevent

distortion in the garment. If the stitching must be removed

after the pressing then be sure to press (do not stretch) the

fabric before stitching again.

5. Never iron against the grain—this can cause stretching—iron

with the grain.

FUNDAMENTAL RULES OF PRESSING:

Use the heat for the type of fabric. The iron will have

settings for various fabrics, so set the temperature control.

Press all seams before stitching across the seams.

When pressing darts:

Press toward the center front and center back

Press from the widest to the narrowest part

Press bust-line darts down

Always press completely on the WRONG SIDE OF THE

FABRIC

Do not press over pins or temporary stitching – these marks

will be hard to remove!

FUNDAMENTALS OF IRONING:

Iron seams in the same direction as they

were stay stitched, basted and

permanently stitched.

Iron with the grain.

Never Iron against the grain.

a. Incorporate the practice of “press as you sew”.

b. Use correct pressing equipment (tailor’s ham, sleeve

board, seam roll, point presser,

pressing cloth).

c. Identify and use appropriate temperature settings for

a various fabrics with different fiber

content.

STANDARD 2

Students will distinguish the different types of fabric and fiber characteristics.

1. What are the 2 main types of fibers?

2. Where are two places natural Fibers come from?

3. What are 2 examples of Protein Fibers?

4. What are 2 examples of Cellulose Fibers?

5. What are manufactured or Synthetic Fibers?

6. What is the difference between a Generic Name and a Trade

Name?

7. Name Three Synthetic Fibers.

8. What is a yarn?

9. What are the three types of Yarn?

10. What are the three types of Fabric Construction?

11. Draw an example of a Plain Weave.

a. What is a characteristic of it?

b. What is one example of its use?

12. Draw and example of a Satin Weave.

a. What are its characteristics?

b. What is an example of how it is used?

13. Draw an example of a Twill Weave.

a. What is it’s characteristics?

b. What are examples of how it is used?

14. What area characteristics of Knits?

a. What are examples of where knits are used?

15. What are the characteristics of Non-Woven Fabric?

16. What are some examples of uses for Non-Woven fabric?

17. List 4 Fabric Finishes and what they do.

a.

b.

c.

d.

18. What information is required to be on a care label of fabric and

clothing?

Study Guide 2-Fabric Construction

Identify basic fibers

A. Natural Fibers

i. Made from natural resources such as animals & plants

ii. Advantages: Allow air to pass through, more comfortable to wear,

feel good to the touch

iii. Disadvantages: Wrinkle easily, harder to care for, can shrink or

fade. Can be expensive (silk & wool especially)

iv. Examples of Natural fibers:

1. Cotton-absorbs moisture & is least expensive of the natural

2. Linen-from Flax plant-stronger than cotton-used in suits

3. Silk-from silkworms-strong yet comfortable-easily dyed

4. Wool-from sheep/llamas (has most natural fire-retardant

characteristics-keeps warm in cold weather

B. Man-made fibers (Synthetic)

i. Made from chemical compound which is forced through a

spinneret (shower-head like object) & allowed to dry

ii. Advantages: Durable, strong, cleans easily, hold shape, take color

well, less expensive

iii. Disadvantages: hot to wear, static electricity build-up, heat

sensitive

iv. Examples of Man-made fibers:

1. Polyester-very widely used-does tend to hold oils

2. Acrylic-commonly used for sweaters

3. Rayon-made from wood pulp-not very strong

4. Spandex-used in swimwear

5. Nylon-Strongest of all fibers

C. Blended yarns/threads

i. Natural fibers which have been blended with synthetic fibers

ii. Blending helps to overcome the disadvantages of both fibers,

creating a product that will have advantages from both natural &

synthetic

iii. Example: Cotton-Poly

Identify various types of Fabric

Construction

A. Basic Weaves-used to make woven

fabrics by interlacing two sets of

yarns placed at right angles to each other

i. Plain

ii. Basket

iii. Twill

iv. Satin

I.

Plain weave

Basket weave

Twill

II

Satin

Warp

yarns

B. Identify the characteristics of Knit fabrics-made by a series of loops from

the same, continuous yarn interlocked together

C. Identify the characteristics of non-woven/felted/bonded fabrics-made

directly from the fibers, held together by moisture, heat, chemicals,

rubbing or pressure.

D. Napped fabrics have a filler yarn coming from the back to produce a

textured or fuzzy feel-examples: velvet, corduroy & terry cloth.

Filling

yarn

(Weft)

Objective 1: Identify and review basic fibers (natural- cotton, linen, silk, wool) (synthetic- nylon,

polyester, acrylic, rayon, spandex, acetate).

Objective 2: Identify various types of fabric construction.

a. Identify woven fabrics.

b. Identify basic weaves (lengthwise and crosswise yarns). (plain, basket, twill, satin)

c. Identify knit (interlocking loops) fabric.

d. Identify non-woven fabrics (felt). STANDARD 3

Students will review and demonstrate pre-construction techniques at the intermediate level.

Objective 1: Identify necessary pattern information and alterations.

a. Determine pattern size based on body measurements and finished garment

measurements (wearing ease).

b. Use pattern envelope to determine correct type and amount of fabric.

c. Make pattern alterations (demonstrate length and width adjustments).

d. Select appropriate fabric, yardage, and notions for the project.

e. Demonstrate correct pattern layout techniques including one-way directional, napped,

straight of grain, or plaid fabrics as stated on guidesheet.

Objective 2: Apply appropriate fabric and pattern preparation techniques.

a. Pre-shrink fabric as appropriate.

b. Review pattern symbols (pleat, dart).

c. Review pattern placement and layout.

d. Discuss one-way directional/nap layout.

e. Review fabric terms.

Objective 3: Practice correct cutting techniques.

Objective 4: Demonstrate correct marking techniques.

STANDARD 4

Students will use correct construction techniques at the intermediate level.

Objective 1: Practice intermediate stitching techniques.

a. Select appropriate thread and needle for project.

FABRIC THREAD NEEDLE SIZE

Delicate:

chiffon, fine lace,

organza,

tulle

Fine Mercerized

cotton

Fine synthetic

thread

9/70

Lightweight:

batiste, crepe,

chiffon, velvet,

jersey, organdy,

plastic film,

taffeta, voile

50 Mercerized

cotton

Fine synthetic

thread

silk

11/80

Medium:

chintz, cordoroy -

fine, deep-pile

fabrics,

faille, gingham, knits,

linen, percale,

pique, satin, suitings,

velvet, vinyl

50 Mercerized

cotton

60 cotton

Synthetic

thread

14/90

Medium/Heavy:

deep-pile fabrics,

coatings

denim, drapery,

gabardine

sailcloth, tweed,

vinyl

Heavy-duty

mercerized

cotton,

40-60 cotton

Synthetic

thread

16/100

Heavy:

canvas, dungaree,

overcoatings,

upholstery fabrics

Heavy-duty

mercerized

cotton,

20-40 cotton

Synthetic

thread

18/100

All Weights: Decorative

topstitching Buttonhole twist 16/100

18/100

Synthetic &:

Stretch Knits

Bonded fabrics, cire,

doubleknit,

jersey, nylon, tricot,

panne,

panne, polyester,

raschel, velvet

Synthetic

thread

50 mercerized

cotton

silk

14/90

Ballpoint

Leather:

Kidskin,

lined leathers

suede

50 mercerized

cotton

Synthetic

thread

silk

11/80

14/90

16/100

Small Ball Point: single

knit or tricot (stretch

fabric)

Heavy or Medium Ball Point: double knit (stretch fabric)

Sharp Needles: woven, non-stretch fabrics, such as calicos, muslin,

percales, broadcloth, linen

Wedge Point very heavy fabrics - has a tiny blade that cuts its way

through the fabric

b. Identify and demonstrate stitching techniques (dart, ease stitching, gathering,

pleat, tuck, understitching, stitch in the ditch, stay stitching) and their

applications).

Darts

Darts are straight stitch lines that connect areas of fabric that must fit

properly to the body. For example, darts may take in bulk in the center

back of a man's fitted shirt. They may be placed at back shoulders to

allow the shirt to be looser at the shoulder blades, but taper in up at the

shoulder seam. They can also be placed on the sides or under the

bustline. The top of a skirt often has darts to allow the skirt to be full at

the hips, but taper in at the waist.

A dart starts and stops without creating any puckers in the fabric. In

other words, the dart lies flat on the fabric. When sewing a dart, careful

tapering from the largest part of the dart, to the end of the dart, is

important. If you abruptly end a dart, you will get puckering. A dart is

made by folding the fabric, and then sewing from one end of the dart

to the other end of the dart.

In the diagram on the left below, the dart runs from the outer edge of

the garment out to the bust area. Fold the dart along the center line,

lining up Point A with Point B. Sew from the outer edge to the point of

the dart. Take a couple of extra stitches at the point, very close to the

folded edge. This helps prevent a pucker at the end of the dart.

If the dart is in the middle of a garment (such as a dart up the back of a

shirt), fold the dart along the center line, then sew from one folded

edge, along the line shown on the pattern (curves away from the

folded edge) area and back again to the folded edge. Refer to the

diagram on the right below.

Objective 2: Use appropriate techniques for enclosed seams (clipping, notching, layering/grading,

trimming).

Objective 3: Practice correct application techniques for applying interfacing and attaching facings

or collars.

Interfacing

Interfacing is used to give stability to the garment piece. It usually lines a facing (see

"Facing" earlier in this chapter). I use it for tote bags, purses and other items that rerquire

more body or stiffness. Interfacing gives body and weight to the piece, and can stiffen the

piece if a heavy weight is used (such as adding stiffness to a baseball cap bill). There are

various weights and types of interfacing available.

Interfacing is fusible (iron-on) or sew-on. Which one you choose depends on your own

preference and type of fabric it will be adhered to. Fusible interfacing is very popular

because it is quick and easy to use. We highly recommend it, if the fabric allows pressing

with a hot iron. Follow the directions that come with the interfacing.

Proper interfacing weight depends on the weight of your fabric, and your desired stiffness of

the finished piece. Use a light weight interfacing for lighter weight fabric, and a heavier

weight for heavier weight fabric, such as denim.

Check washing instructions. It would not make sense to use dry clean only interfacing with a

washable fabric.

a. Select and apply appropriate interfacing (fusible, non-fusible).

b. Demonstrate techniques associated with attaching facings or collars.

Objective 4: Identify each of the following and construct one or more: darts, pleats, and gathers.

Pleats

Pleats allow fabric to be fitted in one area and fuller in another area, and they also cause

fullness at the end of the pleat. A pleat is made by folding the fabric, and stitching a straight

line at some distance parallel to the fold. Because the stitching abruptly stops, there is a lot of

fullness at the end of the pleat.

Objective 5: Identify each of the following sleeves and construct one or more: kimono, raglan, set in

(closed seam, open/flat).

Objective 6: Identify each of the following zipper applications and construct one or more: centered,

lapped, fly, exposed/sport, invisible

Objective 7: Attach one or more appropriate closure: hook and eye, snaps, and pant/skirt hook.

Objective 8: Identify correct application techniques for a trim or other decorative technique: trims,

ruffles, lace, piping, decorative stitching, gripper snaps, machine embroidery, appliqué

Objective 9: Identify types and complete correct application of hems.

a. Identify steps of hem preparation (appropriate length and width, reduce bulk, ease,

pressing)

b. Complete one or more of the following hemming techniques: hand stitched hems, double

fold hem, machine blind hem, rolled hem.

c. Apply correct edge finishes: clean finished, zigzag, serged, stitched and pinked

Objective 10: Construct buttonhole and attach button.

a. Determine correct size of buttonhole (length of button hole = depth of button + button

diameter) Note: This is a correct mathematical equation.

b. Mark placement and construct a buttonhole.

c. Mark placement and attach a button using a thread shank.

Objective 11: Demonstrate the ability to follow directions/guidesheet throughout the project

construction.