St. Peters Burg in Your Pocket, Feb-Mar 2012

“In Your Pocket:“In Your Pocket: A cheeky, well- A cheeky, well- written series of guidebooks.”written series of guidebooks.”

The New York TimesThe New York Times

February - March 2012F b M hF b M h

Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps

ST. PETERSBURG

MaslenitsaFire, fun and games at Russia‘s pancake week

Culture & EventsJazz in the Hermitage

February - March 2012 N°81st_petersburg.inyourpocket.com

In Your PocketEurope’s City Guideinyourpocket.com

In Your Pocket guides and mini-guides are published in more than 50 cities across the continent. You can download PDF versions of them all for free at inyourpocket.com.

E S S E N T I A L C I T Y G U I D E S



February - March 2012F b M hF b M h


ST. PETERSBURG

MaslenitsaFire, fun and games at Russia‘s pancake week

Culture & EventsJazz in the Hermitage

February - March 2012 N°81st_petersburg.inyourpocket.com


Winter WonderlandIce sculpture, outdoor ice-rinks and ice-breaker river cruises

A weekend in KazanWhere Europe meets Asia



February - March 2012 N°19 moscow.inyourpocket.com

February - March 2012 February - March 2012

MOSCOW

3CONTENTS

February - March 2012st_petersburg.inyourpocket.com


Foreword A word from our editor 4

NewsWhat’s new in the city 5

Basics 6

History 8

Getting Around 9

Language 10

Culture and Events 11

Exhibitions 15

Kazan 19

Contents

Hotels 22

Restaurants and Cafes 26

Nightlife 39

Sightseeing 46

Further Afield 54

Moscow 55

Shopping 57

Expat 59

Lifestyle Directory 60

Maps 62-65

Street Register 66

russia.inyourpocket.com

St. Petersburg In Your Pocket st_petersburg.inyourpocket.com

4 FOREWORD

Editorial departmentEditor Louise Whitworth, Ksenia [email protected] & Design Tjeerd van der [email protected] Ksenia Aronova [email protected]

Commercial departmentSales ManagerYulia [email protected] [email protected] order [email protected]

Copyright notice Text and photos copyright OOO Krasnaya Shapka 2003-2012. Maps copyright the BCB-Group. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket.

Winter in St. Petersburg is a strange kind of season - it seems to go on forever. The first year I lived here, it even snowed in May! And I had been thinking that the late April snowfall would be our last... The fact that St. Petersburg is so far north doesn’t help things of course, as the eternal darkness of the first few months of the year only add to the desire to stay indoors and hibernate until it’s all over. It’s perhaps no wonder then that Rus-sians have traditionally always celebrated the imminent arrival of spring, somewhat optimistically early, in the end of February or beginning of March. The spring celebration I am referring to is of course Maslen-itsa, which is strictly speaking, a religious holiday marking the last days of gluttony before lent starts. It does however still have lots of fun pagan elements to it. Pancakes for example are said to be symbolic (in shape) of the sun. Then there’s the scarecrow lady Kostroma (who you can see on our cover). Actually an ancient fertility goddess, the figure of Kostroma gets burned on the last day of maslenitsa, as a way of saying good riddance to winter and a big hello to spring. The best part of maslenitsa, of course is all the eating - pancakes every day with dinner? Yes please! Of course nobody expects that immediately on February 27 birds are going to start singing and the fields will be filled with spring flowers - that really happens in May - which is probably why February and March are some of the busiest months of the year culture-wise. After all we need something to do indoors before the sun finally does arrive!

Louise Whitworth, Editor-in-chief, Russia In Your Pocket

Editor’s noteThe editorial content of In Your Pocket guidesis independent from paid-for advertising.We welcome all readers‘ comments andsuggestions. We have made every effort toensure the accuracy of the information atthe time of going to press and assume noresponsibility for changes and errors.

Санкт-Петербург В Твоем КарманеУчредитель и издатель:ООО «Красная Шапка»Россия, 196084 Санкт-ПетербургУл. Цветочная д. 25, лит. А.тел. : + 7 (812) 448 88 65факс: + 7(812) 448 88 64Главный редактор:Бонни ван дер ВелдеОтпечатано в ООО “МДМ-Печать”,188640, Л.О., г. Вcеволожск,Всеволожский пр., 114заказ no. 59-10Свидетельство о регистрациисредства массовой информацииПи No 2-6849 от 17.10.03 выданоСеверо-Западным региональнымуправлением комитета РФ по печати.Цена свободная.

Тираж - 90 000 экз.No. 81. 01.02.2012

St. Petersburg In Your Pocket founded and published by OOO Krasnaya Shapka/In Your Pocket.Russia, 196084 St. Petersburg, Ul. Tsvetochnaya 25A,

[email protected]: +7 (812) 448 88 65,fax: +7 (812) 448 88 64,russia.inyourpocket.com

Publisher Bonnie van der Velde,[email protected] director Tanya Skvortsova, [email protected] [email protected]

© OOO Krasnaya Shapka/In Your PocketPublished 6 times per year with supplements,

N 81, 01-02-2012, 90.000 copies© Maps the BCB-Group


That burning figure which you see on our cover is Lady Maslenitsa or Kostroma. You can watch her getting fried again this year and join in all kinds of other fun maslen-itsa activities at Yelagin ostrov (metro Krestovsky ostrov) on February 26. Photo by Lori.ru

Cover story

It will be a busy 2012 for In Your Pocket. Fresh from publishing new guides in Bulgaria (Veliko Turnovo), the Netherlands (Tilburg, Utrecht, Amsterdam and Sittard-Geelen), in Austria (Vienna), in Croatia (Šibenik), in Switzerland (Zurich), Slovenia (Posavje) and in Belarus (Minsk), we are now planning our first guides in Italy and Sweden. The number of cities we cover has now climbed past 75, and the number of In Your Pocket guides published each year is approaching an amazing five million. To keep up to date, like In Your Pocket on Facebook (facebook.com/inyourpocket) or follow us on Twitter (twitter.com/inyourpocket). You can also now follow our tips on Foursquare (foursquare.com/inyourpocket).

The World of In Your Pocket

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Poland

Romania

SerbiaBosnia

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CroatiaSloveniaAustria

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Latvia

EstoniaRussia

Germany

Netherlands

NorthernIrelandIreland


5NEWS

Russian protestsWhen the polls closed at the end of December 04, the day of the State Duma elections, nobody could have predicted the protests that immediately followed and continued to ac-celerate massively within just a matter of days. On December 05, the day after the elections 8,000 people gathered in a Moscow park to put forward their belief that the elections had been fraudulent. By Saturday a meeting of an estimated 50,000 people had gathered in the centre of Moscow to protest the election results, in St. Petersburg some 8,000 - 10,000 protestors turned out in support and in more than 90 other towns and cities across the nation other protests were taking place. On December 24 even larger crowds went to the streets to demand changes to the system and with the movement shows little sign of dying down in the run up to the March 04 Presidential election.The next major demonstrations are planned for February 04, starting at 14:00 and will be taking place across the country. Taking place exactly one month before Russians head out to vote again in the final round of this year’s elections, organisers hope to see a large turnout despite the low temperatures. As the weather will undoubtedly be very cold the protest will take the form of a peaceful march which is currently planned to start at the BKZ Theatre on Ligovsky Prospekt, ending in front of City Hall on Isaakevskaya ploschad. While we admit that it is always exciting to feel you are witnessing history from the front row, we would advise all foreigners to steer well clear of any marches and protests, whether pro- or anti-government. Although all protests so far have been peaceful, plain common sense and respect would dictate that a heated political protest is not the place for a tourist. If you would like to feel the political pulse of the country and see how real Russians feel about the elections and the future direction of their country - just sit down somewhere warm and strike up a conversation with a local instead!

Celebrating Russian men…February 23, the Day of the Defender’s of the Fatherland, is a public holiday in Russia which dates back to the early days of the Red Army. In 1995 it became known as Day of the Military Glory of Russia, but it is most commonly known simply as Men’s Day or Defender’s Day. Although technically it is still a military holiday, all men are congratulated whether they have served in the armed forces or not. As the day falls on a Thursday it is highly likely that the Friday will also be declared a public holiday to create a long weekend. In that case Russians will work the following Saturday in compensation.

…And Women!Russia’s women also get their own national holiday on March 08 - International Women’s Day - which has been marked in Russia since 1913. This year March 08 falls on a Thursday so it is highly likely that Friday 08 will also be taken as a public holiday and Russians will work the following Saturday in compensation for the four day weekend.. Women’s day is one of the biggest holidays of the year in Russia, second only to New Year in terms of the amount of money spent celebrating. Men are expected to congratulate all of the women in their life; wives, mothers, sisters, daughters, female colleagues and friends. Beaming men can been seen waiting with red roses at metro exits, happy couples linger about in the streets and employers put on special parties for their staff.

Transport prices to riseFrom March 01 the public transport prices in St. Peters-burg are set to rise in line with inflation and to support the increasing works needed to improve the city’s transport infrastructure. At the time of printing the new prices had not been confirmed but tickets are expected to rise by 1-3Rbls up from the current 25Rbl for the metro and 21Rbl for buses, trams and trolley buses.

Love is in the airRussia, like much of the rest of the world, is crazy about Valentine’s day. Everywhere you go in town on February 14 you will see some kind of special romance related package, whether it’s a special deal on a luxury hotel room, discounts in the flower shop or a special menu in a restaurant. For every venue offering romantic deals for couples however there are also more than enough bars hoping to pull in the young and single. So, if you are happily coupled up, take advantage of St. Petersburg’s picturesque city streets and go for a romantic stroll along the canals, you lucky things. On the other hand if you are looking to go out and have a wild time and as someone who is (young) free and single you can be sure to find some fun on Dumskaya ulitsa. For more on the city’s nightlife see our nightlife pages.

During 2011 as well as improving our websites to integrate gps plotted maps and other nifty bonuses, we also started venturing further out into the Russian regions. In addition to our two full guides to Moscow and St. Petersburg, we now also produce web based guides to Veliky Novgorod, Yaroslavl, Suzdal, Sergiev Posad and the St. Petersburg suburbs of Pushkin, Pavlovsk and Peterhof. In 2012 we have our aims set even higher and will be continuing to expand our coverage of Russia’s best tourist destinations by adding more cities to our Golden Ring map as well as bringing you online guides to important cities such as Kazan, Nizhny Novgorod and Sochi. To find out more head to our website russia.inyourpocket.com and keep abreast of all the latest developments by following us on facebook at www.facebook.com/RussiaInYourPocket

IYP Russia is expanding in 2012


6 BASICS

ElectricityThe electrical current in Russia is 220 volts AC, 50Hz. Most sockets are standard European size with double round–pin plugs. If you’re bringing any British appliances, bring a Euro adapter just in case.

Foreigner PricesThe ‘foreigner price’ is a hangover from the good old days of Intourist-organised Soviet travel. At some theatres and museums, foreigners are required to pay six to 20 times more than the Russian price. Ouch! These institutions insist that Russian tickets are subsidised with foreigners paying the ‘real price.’ If you have a document (propusk), which says you work or study in Russia, you can usually get the local price.

Habits No shoes in the house! When entering a Russian household, remember to take your shoes off as soon as you get inside. Usually your host will offer you slippers. In terms of greetings, men shake hands with each other on meeting and if you’re a woman and you hold your hand out to a man, don’t be suprised if it is not shaken but kissed. Chivalry is alive and kicking! It’s also seen as very rude to blow your nose loudly in public and cross your legs on public transport. Spitting on the streets seems to be okay, though.

Health and SafetyDespite the rumours, St. Petersburg is no more dangerous than your average European city. The famed Russian mafia has bigger fish to fry than your average tourist and you’re more likely to be robbed or beaten up by the thugs ingeniously disguised as police officers. Russian drivers are your biggest danger, so cross roads carefully and don’t assume cars will stop just because you’re on a zebra crossing. Other dangers include dodgy electrical fittings, temperamental gas stoves, uncovered manholes and absinthe. In the winter icy streets and huge icicles can also pose a danger so watch where you walk. The city’s water is chlorine treated due to parasites and heavy metals, so you can use it to brush your teeth or wash fruit. For drinking or making tea, it is better to stick to bottled water, or clean the tap water with a filter and give it a good boil first.

Internet accessMost cafes, restaurants and bars now have free wifi, just ask your waiter for a parol (password) to be able to log in.Yota If you are here for a while and need a reliable mobile internet service, the company Yota is the leader in 4G instant internet. You will need to buy a mini-modem (like a large USB memory stick) which costs around 2,000Rbl and sign up to a number of Yota packages.Cafemax E-4, Nevsky pr. 90/92, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 273 66 55, www.cafemax.ru.QOpen 24hrs.

Making a CallCalling within St. Petersburg - To call any number within St. Petersburg from a private fixed line, just dial the local seven–digit number as it is, without any codes. Normally, all calls from fixed lines to other fixed lines in St. Petersburg are free.Calling within Russia - For a call to Moscow or any other city in Russia, simply dial 8, wait for the tone (not necessary if you have a digital line), then dial the Russian city code and the number.

Pickpocket placesNevsky Prospekt and other downtown streets are very popular places for pick-pocketing gangs. They like to block the entrances/exits of public transport and metro entrances (particularly during rush hour). It may be wiser to leave valuables in your hotel’s safe and carry only enough cash for the day. Also watch your belongings when you travel by metro, especially if it is rush hour. Think twice about leaving mobile phones in bags when checking them at theatre or nightclub cloakrooms.

Police! The police here generally look for any excuse to fine you, so photocopy your passport and visa. Make sure that you always carry a few photocopies; if the police stop you (they check Russians all the time too) then show them the photocopy rather than the original.

What to do if you are robbedCancel your credit cards as soon as possible. Carry copies of your credit cards with international customer service numbers somewhere other than your wallet. The Tourist Information office, Ul. Sadovaya 14, can help you file a police report. Your consulate can help you if your passport has been stolen.

More safety...Avoid attracting unwanted attention by not speaking loudly in your mother tongue, or walking the streets if you have been drinking. If you are of African, Arab, or Asian descent exercise caution, particularly at night. 02 - Emergency hotline. If you have problems and don’t speak Russian it may be better to call the English lan-guage tourist helpine (+7) 812 300 33 33.

Be on guard!

Some pointers to get you started and help you make some sense of chaotic Russian life.

AlcoholStereotypes about Russian drinking habits are mostly true, so if you somehow find yourself enmeshed in a vodka session with locals, don’t try to keep up. Vodka is cheap and there are tonnes of brands. Russky Standart, Diplomat and Zhuravli are pretty good. Be aware that you can’t buy strong alcohol (more than 5% proof) in shops from 23:00 until 07:00. Rus-sian beer (pivo) is good stuff; try locally brewed Nevskoe or Baltika. Sovetskoe shampanskoe (Soviet Champagne) is the national party drink.

CustomsFor most travellers leaving Russia you will just need to go to the GREEN (nothing to declare) channel and you do NOT need to complete the ‘Customs and Currency Declaration Statement’ upon arrival or departure (unless you are carrying thousands of dollars in cash with you). Any art works, icons etc that are over 100 years old cannot be taken out of the country. If you are in doubt about antiques you have bought get an ‘expert’s report,’ either from the Rosokhrankultura (Russian Cultural Security Department), Ul. Malaya Morskaya 17, Open Mon - Fri 11:00 - 17:00 or an accredited shop. Travelling to most countries you can legally take 200 cigarettes and 2 litres of hard alcohol out with you. To some countries such as Estonia, the allowance is less.


7BASICS

Calling internationally - To phone home from a St. Pe-tersburg landline without using a card, dial 8, wait for the tone (not necessary if you have a digital line), then dial 10 and the country code city code and the number as usual.

Mobile PhonesYou can use your mobile phone if your provider has an inter-national roaming agreement with any of the Russian mobile GSM phone providers in St. Petersburg. Normally, if you are abroad you have to pay roaming charges on all incoming and outgoing calls. If you call to another Russian mobile phone, for a direct-dial number dial seven digits and for a federal number dial 8 and then the 10-digit number. If you call from your mobile to a fixed line just dial the seven-digits. It may be easiest to buy a local SIM card for use in your own phone. A pre-paid card account starts from around 150Rbl and includes about the same moneys worth of calls. To purchase, you need to show your passport, visa and registration.

MoneyThe national currency is the rouble (Rbl). Banknotes come in denominations of 10, 50, 100, 500, 1,000 and 5,000. Rouble coins come in 1, 2, 5 and 10Rbls. There are 100 kopeks to a ruble and kopek coins come in 1, 5, 10 and 50. It’s illegal to pay in dollars or euros. Find ATMs at most metro stations, banks and large hotels. Not all establishments take credit cards, even if they have signs that say they do. Always have cash as back up. American Express travellers’ cheques are exchangeable at most banks or call the head office hotline on (+7) 800 200 94 49. Most Russian banks also offer Western Union money transfers.

QueuingIt may seem improbable when confronted with the Russian populace enmasse inside the metro but outside public transport Russians adhere to queuing rules strictly. The modus operandi involves fronting up to the dispersed group and asking ‘Kto pasledny?’ (Who’s last?), to which someone will answer ‘Ya’ (meaning me). Now all you need to do is wait for your turn. Unwritten rules include telling the person behind you that you are just nipping out for a cigarette and will be back in five minutes. Contrary to western understanding, you don’t lose your place by not waiting around, you can also just come back later.

€1 = 39-41Rbl; GBP £1 = 47-49Rbl

US $1 = 31-32 Rbl

By PlaneSt. Petersburg’s two airports are south of the city. Most international flights leave from Pulkovo-2, tel. (+7) 812 704 34 44, www.pulkovoairport.ru/eng/. Internal flights (including those to most former Soviet Republics) leave from Pulkovo-1. Don’t forget to take your immigration card with you and arrive early as queues at Pulkovo-2 can be particularly long.Getting to the airport by Taxi Taxi-drivers may ask anything from 2,000Rbl, US$70 or €50 to take you to the airport. Agree on the price first: a reasonable price is no more than 800Rbl, US$30 or €20. If you phone a taxi company and order transport to the airport in advance you can get a better deal. For taxi comapnies see page 9.Getting to the airport by Public Transport: buses N113, N213 and fixed-route mini-buses (marshrutky) K13, T113 go from Moskovskaya metro every 15 min (19-28Rbl) to Pulkovo-2. Mini-buses K3 and K213 go from Moskovskaya and also the more central Sennaya Pl. There is also a 24hour bus route linking both the international and domestic terminals with the city centre. Bus K800 runs from Pulkovo-1 (domestic) and K900 leaves from Pulkovo-2. The route passes metro stations Moskovskaya, Tekhnolgichesky Institut and ends at Vladimirskaya.

Leaving St. Petersburg

number of the train

departure date

departure time - don’t be late, they won’t wait! number of your carriage (vagon)

seat or bed number (myesta)

your passport number –check when you buy the ticket that the seller copied it correctly

that’s you! arrival timeNote all times are always Moscow time - even when you’re in a different time zone.

RegistrationRemember that you must be registered within 7 days of your arrival in Russia (excluding weekends and public holidays). Hotels are legally obliged to register you within 24 hours of arrival. Many travel agencies can also register you. If you don’t get registered on time, you can expect serious problems when leaving, ranging from paying a fee, to missing your flight while officials interrogate you.

Travel AgenciesBaltic Hotels Alliance Pr. Veteranov 147, lit B, MPr. Veteranov, tel. (+7) 812 300 48 10, www.hotel-in-petersburg.com. Offering hotel booking services for any budget, visa support, excursions and package tours. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun.Your Visa To Russia tel. (+7) 812 309 47 70, www.yourvisatorussia.com. Russian tourist and business visa invitations can be ordered online via PayPal, credit card or money transfer. They also offer visa support for migration risk countries and have frequently updated information regarding new visa changes.


8 HISTORY

History9th CenturySlavic people from Ukraine and Belarus migrate into Russia, founding Veliky Novgorod, converting to Christianity, and adopting the Cyrillic alphabet. 10th - 15th CenturiesGolden Age of Kievan Rus continues until the Mongol descen-dants of Ghenghis Khan invade. 17th CenturyTime of Troubles 1603- 1613: the Swedes and Poles invade. Russia acquires new Siberian territory. First Romanov is elected Tsar.1703Peter the Great founds St. Petersburg, which becomes the new Russian capital in 1712 . 1725-1825A princess from Germany marries into the Romanovs, becoming Catherine the Great (1762 - 1796). Famous for progressive reform, infamous for her lovers and renowned leaving an indelible mark upon the architectural ensemble of St. Petersburg.1812Alexander I defeats Napoleon on Russian soil. Led by poets Pushkin and Lermontov, Russia enters its Golden Age of poetry.1825 - 1861In 1825 the Decembrist uprising is crushed. Soldiers and nobles revolt against Nicholas I, who executes and exiles the dissenters. In 1837 Russia’s best loved poet Pushkin is killed in a duel.

1861 - 1881Alexander II emancipates Russia’s serfs, although the poor terms of abolition do little to quell revolutionary tensions amongst peasants. He is assassinated by anarchist terror-ists on St. Petersburg’s canal Griboedeva. The church on the spilled blood is built in his honour.1905Bloody Sunday: a large crowd carrying a petition to the Winter Palace for the Tsar is fired upon by the Tsar’s troops and hundreds are killed. The incident prompts outrage, strikes and eventually the establishment of a national parliament (Duma) in 1906.1914Russia joins its allies the French in World War I and St. Peters-burg changes its name to Petrograd. Lack of fuel and food in the city soon leads to unrest.1916Wild-eyed, womanising Rasputin, a Siberian peasant monk who has the Tsarina Alexandra under his spell, is murdered by Prince Felix Yusupov in St. Petersburg.1917 - 1922Following the February and October Revolutions of 1917, Lenin’s Bolshevik Party takes control of Russia. Tsar Nicholas II and his family are murdered in 1918. Moscow becomes the capital again. Russia is plunged into a bloody civil war. St. Petersburg is renamed Leningrad.1922 - 1936Lenin implements the New Economic Policy (NEP), but dies in 1924. Following a power struggle, Josef Stalin becomes leader and abolishes the NEP and brings in col-lectivisation. In 1934 Kirov is murdered and in 1937 the great Purges of Stalin’s terror begin. Millions are murdered or sent to gulags.1941 - 1945June 1941 Nazi Germany invades the Soviet Union under operation Barbarossa. In September 1941 the siege of Len-ingrad begins and is only broken on January 27 1944. During the siege at least 1.5 million die of starvation or injuries. May 9, 1945, Nazi Germany capitulates. The Soviet death toll is estimated to be close to 30 million.1945 - 1964Winston Churchill announces that an ‘iron curtain’ has been drawn across Europe. The Cold War begins. Stalin dies in 1953. Khrushchev details Stalin’s atrocities in a secret speech in 1956 and his body is removed from Lenin’s mausoleum in Moscow. Yuri Gagarin becomes the first man in space (1961). 1964 - 1991Khrushchev is impeached, Brezhnev becomes leader and the years of stagnation begin. New leader Gorbachev’s reforms of perestroika (restructuring) and glasnost (openness) improve western relations (1985) but also begin to de-stabilise the Soviet Union. In 1991 following the end of communism in Eastern Europe the Soviet Union collapses. 1991 - 1999Yel tsin becomes the f irst elected president of the new Russian Federation in 1991. Economic crisis and instabili ty ensues with rampant inflation and privatisa-tion shaking the country. War with Chechnya results in numerous victims. 1999 - 2008Native Petersburger, Vladimir Putin becomes President in March 2000. Russia becomes more stable and prosperous, thanks to gas and oil exports. Putin’s popularity knows no boundaries. In 2006 St. Petersburg hosts the G8 summit. 2008 - presentAnother local boy, Dmitry Medvedev is elected President in March 2008 with overwhelming support. The constitution is changed to lengthen the Presidential term to 6 years. Putin is now eligible for a third term in office in 2012.

ClimateWinters in Russia are fierce and February is typically one of the coldest months of the year, with temperatures sometimes getting as low as -20, so wrap up warm and don’t forget your thick socks and warm gloves! Layers are usually the most practical. Only in the end of March does the city really start to thaw so until then expect a lot of ice and snow in the streets and minuses on the thermometer.


9GETTING AROUND

Public transportMost Petersburg residents get around the city by public transport which operates from 06:00 to just after midnight. On above-ground transportation you can buy tickets on board from the conductor or the driver. If you are travelling outside the centre or have a long journey you may need a variety of transport types. The website www. rusavtobus.ru is (mostly) available in English and will give you several options for your journey start to finish.Bus/Trolleybus/Tram - Most have scrolling banners above the driver’s cabin listing the next stop. Routes are indicated on window placards positioned on the side of each bus and trolley.Metro - Petersburg has five colour–coded, numbered metro lines. Buy tokens (zhetoni) from the windows labelled kassa or plastic cards for more rides which you can use for a fixed period. When you arrive at a station, you will hear the arrival station announced, followed by the name of the next stop. This can be confusing, so it’s best to count your stops.Marshrutka - The marshrutka is a mini bus taxi which follows a set route. When you see the number you want, hail it down like a taxi. When you want to get off, yell out, ‘ostanavites pazhaluista,’ and the driver will, hopefully, come to a screeching halt.

Taxis‘Taxi’ is a term to be used loosely. Although there are official’taxis, most St. Petersburgers hail down ordinary cars. To foreigners, travelling in an unmarked car may seem unsafe, and it is certainly advisable to take caution. There is a certain protocol to follow. Stand by a main road and stick out your arm - palm down. Always agree to a price in advance (‘Skolko?’); within the centre 150-200Rbl is normal. If the driver refuses, slam the door and sometimes they change their mind. Then hop in and enjoy the Lada experience. Try to avoid using large denominations and asking for change. Ladybird, tel. (+7) 812 900 05 04, www.ladybird-taxi.ru.QWomen only taxi service; female drivers and car seats for the kids. Open 24hrs.Zhyoltoe Taxi (Yellow Taxi) , tel. (+7) 812 600 88 88, www.peterburg.nyt.ru. City centre to airport around 700Rbl. Having exact change is recommended.

FerriesSt. Peter Line Morskoy Vokzal, Pl. Morskoy Slavy 1, MPrimorskaya, tel. (+7) 812 337 20 60 , www.stpe-terline.com. The ferry is the first visa free link up between Helsinki, Tallinn, Stockholm and St. Petersburg. Passengers can stay in Russia for a maximum 72hours (with no visits to other towns or cities). Daily journeys between Helsinki and St. Petersburg, weekly between Tallinn and Stockholm. Check website for full schedule.

Buying TicketsIf you like torture, buy your train tickets from the ticket windows in the train stations. When choosing a cashier, ensure they are not due to take a break in the next hour or two and don’t be surprised to be pushed in on while in the queue. You can always buy from a tourist or ticket agency for a less painful experience. You can also buy online (although the booking pages are in Russian) and collect your ticket from machines in the station. The official online booking site is www.rzd.ru.

Train Stations Baltiisky station Nab. Obvodnogo kan. 120, MBalti-iskaya, tel. (+7) 812 457 28 59. Local trains to and from Petrodvorets (Peterhof), Lomonosov, Oranienbaum, Gatchina, Luga, Krasnoe Selo.Finlyandsky station Pl. Lenina, 6, MPl. Lenina, tel. (+7) 812 436 67 46. Local trains to and from Helsinki, Vy-borg, Zhelenogorsk, Sestoretsk, Repino, Komarovo, Karelia.Ladozhsky station Zanevsky pr. 73, MLadozhskaya, tel. (+7) 812 436 53 10. Trains to and from Murmansk, Vologda, Svetogorsk, Kostomuksha.Moskovsky station E-4, Nevsky pr. 85, MPl. Voss-taniya, tel. (+7) 812 457 44 28. Trains going to Moscow and anywhere south of Moscow.Vitebsky station C-4, Zagorodny pr. 52, MPushkins-kaya, tel. (+7) 812 457 59 39. Trains to and from Pushkin, Pavlovsk, Brest, Odessa, Smolensk, Kiev, Minsk, Praga, Warsaw, Tallin, Riga, Berlin, Dnepropetrovska, Budapest, Vilnius.

BusesCity Bus Station Nab. Obvodnogo kan. 36, MObvod-nogo kanal, tel. (+7) 812 766 57 77, www.avokzal.ru Tickets for domestic and international buses.QOpen 06:30 - 23:30.Ecolines C-4, Podezdnoy per. 3, MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7) 812 325 21 52, www.ecolines.ru. This office sells tickets to Kiev, Odessa, Riga and Vilnius.QOpen 09:00 - 21:00.Eurolines Russia Nab. Obvodnogo Kanala 118 (busi-ness centre Admiral), MBaltiiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 441 37 57, www.eurolines.ru. Daily buses to Tallinn and Riga.QOpen 09:00 - 21:00.Private buses E-4, Ligovsky pr. 10, MPl. Vosstaniya. Private minibuses and larger Russian tourist coaches travel-ling to Helsinki and other cities in Finland leave daily from Pl. Vosstaniya. Most buses leave St. Petersburg between 19:00 and 22:00 and arrive in Helsinki around 06:30 - 07:30 or even earlier.

Car RentalAVIS Russia Car Rental F- 4, Pl. Aleksandra Nevskogo 2, podezd 3, MPl. Aleksandra Nevskogo, tel. (+7) 812 600 12 13, www.avis-rentacar.ru. Europcar D-3, Pulkovo 2, arriving hall, MMoskovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 600 35 36, www.europcar.ru.

10 LANGUAGE


Pocket dictionary: VyboryElections. Following the state Duma elections in December thousands of Russians took to the streets to take part in mitingi (demonstrations) to protest against alleged falsi-fikatsi (falsifactions/fraud) and vbros byuletyeney (ballot stuffing) on election day at izbiratelny uchastki (polling stations) across the country. All signs indicate that the mass demonstrations, held under the slogan ‘za chestny vybory!’ (‘for fair elections!’), whose followers show their support by wearing a byely lentochka (white ribbon), are likely to con-tinue long into the spring.

Alphabet

1 adin 12 dvinatsit 50 pyiatdesyat2 dva 13 trinatsit 60 shyestdesyat3 tri 14 chetirnatsit 70 syemdesyat4 chetiry 15 pitnatsit 80 vosyemdesyat5 pyiat 16 shestnatsit 90 dyevyanosta6 shyest 17 syemnatsit 100 sto7 syem 18 vosyemnatsit 500 pyiat sot8 vosyem 19 devyiatnatsit 1000 tysicha9 dyevyiat 20 dvatsit 2000 dve tysyachi10 dyesyiat 30 tritsit11 adinastit 40 sorok

Numbers

Basic phrasesNo/Yes Net/da Нет/ДаHello Zdrastvuite ЗдравствуйтеGoodbye Dasvidaniya До свиданияThank you Spasibo СпасибоSorry/excuse me Izvinite ИзвинитеPlease Pazhalusta ПожалуйстаI don't understand Ya ne panimayu Я не понимаюI don't speak Russian

Ya ne gavaryu pa-russky

Я не говорю по-русски

Do you speak English?

Vy gavaritye pa-anglisky?

Вы говорите по-английски?

Help! Pomogitye! Помогите!Go away! Ostavte menya! Оставьте меня!I need some help Mne nuzhna

pomoshchМне нужна помошь

I don't want Ya ne khachu Я не хочуI (don't) like it Mnye (ne) nravitsa Мне (не)

нравитьсяMay I? Mozhno? Можно?Do you have...? U vas est…? У вас есть...?I don't know Ya ne znayu Я не знаюHow much is it? Skolko stoit? Сколько стоит?It's expensive! Eta dorogo! Это дорого!More/less Yesho/menshe Еще/меньшеLarge/small Bolshoy/malenky Большой/

маленкийGood/bad Khorosho/plokho Хорошо/плохоIt hurts! Bolno! Больно!Today Sevodnya СегодняTomorrow Zaftra ЗавтраCould you write it down?

Zapishite pazhalusta

Запишите, пожалуйста

Toilets Tualet ТуалетStop here please Ostanavite

pazhalustaОстановите, пожалуйста

When? At what time?

Kogda? Vo skolko?Когда? Во сколько?

What time is it? Katory chas? Который час?Who? Kto? Кто?How do you say that in Russian?

Kak skazat eto pa-russky?

Как сказать это по-русски?

No problem Bez problem Без проблемOf course Koneshno КонечноLet's go together! Davay vmeste! Давай вместе!Happy Holidays! S Praznikom! С праздником!

In the restaurant/barBill Please Shchot pazhalustaСчет,

пожалуйстаI am a vegetarian Ya vegetarianets Я вегетарианецDry/sweet (for wine)

Sukhoe/sladkoe (vino)

Сухое/сладеое (вино)

Red/White (for wine)

Krasnoe/byeloe (vino)

Красное/белое (вино)

Set lunch menu Bizness lanch Бизнес-ланчIs this seat free? Mesto svobodno? Место

свободно?2 beers please Dva piva

pazhalustaДва пива, пожалуйста

(Non) smoking place

(Ne) kuryashchee mesto

(Не) курящее место

Table water Pityevaya/stolovaya voda

Питьевая/столовая вода

Meat Myaso МясоNuts Orekhi ОрехиI am allergic to… U menya allergiya У меня аллергияVery tasty! Ochen vkusno! Очень вкусно!

Where is the…? Gdye…? Где…?Is it far? Eta daleko? Это далеко?Right/left Napravo/nalyevo Направо/налевоStraight ahead Pryamo ПрямоTicket office Kassa КассаOpen/closed Otkryto/zakryto Открыто/

закрытоEntrance/exit Vkhod/Vykhod Вход/выходPush/pull Ot sebya/k sebe От себя/к себеTicket Bilyet БилетReturn (ticket) Tuda i obratno Туда и обратноEntrance forbidden

Vkhod zapreshchon

Вход запрещен

No smoking Ne kurit Не курить

Useful Phrases

Getting around

LANGUAGE


11CULTURE & EVENTSWelcome to the cultural capital of Russia! After a day’s hoofing it through the finest museums and historical locations, you can watch a play, ballet, opera or circus performance any and every night you choose.

Concert HallsBallet Hall Aurora (BHA) Pirogovskaya nab. 5/2, MPl. Lenina, tel. (+7) 812 966 37 76, www.balet-spb.ru.Grand Philharmonic Hall (GPH) D-2, Ul. Mikhailovs-kaya 2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 710 42 57, www.philharmonia.spb.ruJazz Philharmonic Hall (JPH) С-3, Zagorodny pr. 27, MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 812 764 85 65, www.jazz-hall.spb.ru.JFC Jazz Club (JFC) B-2, Ul. Shpalernaya 33, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 272 98 50, jfc-club.spb.ru. Maltese Capella, Vorontsovsky Palace (MC) D-3, Ul. Sadovaya 26, MGostiny Dvor, tel. (+7) 812 610 33 28, www.maltacapella.ru. Oktyabrsky Grand Concert Hall (BKZ) E-3, Li-govsky pr. 6, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 275 12 73, www.bkz.sp.ru. Mariinsky Concert Hall (MCH) C-4, Ul. Dekabris-tov 37, MSadovaya, tel. (+7) 812 326 41 41, www.mariinsky.ru. Saint Petersburg Opera (SPO) C-2, Galernaya ul. 33, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 315 67 69, www.spbopera.ru.Small Philharmonic Hall (SPH) D-3, Nevsky pr. 30, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571 83 33, www.philharmonia.spb.ru.

TheatresAlexandrinsky Theatre (AT) E-3, Pl. Ostrovskogo 2, MGostiny Dvor, tel. (+7) 812 312 15 45, en.alexandrinsky.ru. Imperial Hermitage Theatre (IHT) C-2, Dvorts-ovaya nab. 34, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 966 37 76, www.balet-spb.ru.Mariinsky Theatre (MAT) C-4, Teatralnaya pl.1, MSennaya pl, tel. (+7) 812 326 41 41, www.mari-insky.ru.Mikhailovsky Theatre (MIT) D-3, Pl. Iskuusstv 1, MNevsky pr, tel.(+7)812 595 43 19, w w w.mikhailovsky.ru.State Theatre of Music Comedy (MCT) D-3, ul. Italyanskaya 13, M Gostiny Dvor, tel. (+7) 812 966 37 76

CircusCircus on Fontanka E-3, Nab. reky Fontanky 3, MGostiny Dvor, tel. (+7) 812 570 53 90, www.circus.spb.ru. Q Admission 300-2,000Rbl.

Grand Philharmonic Hall GPHBallet Hall Aurora BHAImperial Hermitage Theatre IHTMariinsky Theatre MATMariinsky Concert Hall MCHMikhailovsky Theatre MITSmall Philharmonic Hall SPHSaint Petersburg Opera SPO

Venues

Feb Time Event Venue01 19:00 Mozart MCH01 19:00 Orchestre de la Suisse

Romande: Weber, Shumann

GPH

03 19:00 Roussel, Saint-Saens, Ravel, Wagner

GPH

05 19:00 Mendelssohn, Shubert GPH07 19:00 Sergei Khachatryan

recital (violin)MCH

07 19:00 Handel, Bach, Spohr GPH08 19:00 Mozart, Strauss GPH08 19:00 Rachmaninov MCH19 19:00 Rachmaninov, All-Night

VigilMCH

10 19:00 Famous organists of the world: Kevin Bowyer

MCH

10 19:00 Haydn, Schönberg, Mozart

GPH

12 19:00 Elgar, Tippett, Allyn, Bliss GPH15 19:00 Shostakovich GPH16 19:00 Bach, Schumann, Liszt

(organ)GPH

17 19:00 Wagner, Beethoven, Shostakovich

GPH

18 19:00 Mozart, Beethoven, Shumann, Skryabin

GPH

19 19:00 Dvořák, Brahms, Beethoven,

GPH

24 19:00 Fauré, Laló, Tchaikovsky GPH26 12:00 The tale of the Princess

of the early dawnMCH

26 19:00 Saint-Saens, Ysaÿe, Rachmaninov

GPH

Mar Time Event Venue02 19:00 Rachmaninov, Prokofiev GPH04 12:00 In the world of ancient

legends and traditionsMCH

04 19:00 Beethoven, Strauss GPH06 19:00 Adams, Stravinsky,

Bartok, GershvinGPH

08 19:00 Wiener Johann Strauss-Capella

GPH

10 19:00 Mozart, Strauss GPH11 12:00 The Orchestra comes

on stageMCH

11 19:00 Schumann, Mahler GPH13 19:00 Jazz do it! Francis Goya,

guitarGPH

15 19:00 Giovanni Battista Pergolesi; Gioachino Rossini

MCH

15 19:00 Webern, Mozart, Brahms

GPH

16 19:00 Famous organists of the world: Rubin Abdullin

MCH

16 19:00 Moscow Virtuosi Chamber Orchestra

GPH

17 19:00 Mozart, Shubert, Schumann, Chopin

GPH

18 19:00 Tchaikovsky, Bartok GPH19 19:00 Brahms, Shostakovich GPH21 19:00 Bach GPH28 19:00 Bach-Busoni, Mozart,

Ravel, ChopinGPH

30 19:00 Terem-crossover GPH31 19:00 Ligeti, Bartok, List,

BrahmsGPH

Classical Music


12 CULTURE & EVENTS

February Events07.02 Tuesday19:00 Chris ReaD-3, Oktyabrsky Grand Hall (BKZ), Ligovsky pr. 6, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 275 13 00, www.chrisrea.com. Chris Rea, the man who sounds like he just ate a plateful of gravel, is back on the road again, for surprise, surprise, another round of the greatest hits tour. A long time afficianado of the blues, the British singer and guitarist is most famous for his drive time hits from 1980s including ‘Driving home for Christmas‘ and the ‘Road to Hell‘. Q Tickets 1,000 - 7,500Rbl.

11.02 Saturday21:00 Pirate Station ApocalypseSport Concert Complex (SKK), Pr. Gagarina 8, MPark Pobedy, tel. (+7) 812 378 17 10, www.radiorecord.ru. Taking advantage of an ancient Mayan prophecy that the world will end in 2012, Pirate Station have decided to theme their annual winter drum‘n‘bass party after the impending Apocalypse. French group Dirtyphonics are amongst the headline acts who will be performing live at the huge all-night party. Q Tickets 800 - 2,500Rbl.

13.02 Monday20:00 RammsteinSport Concert Complex (SKK), Pr. Gagarina 8, MPark Pobedy, tel. (+7) 812 378 17 10, www.rammstein.com. First propelled to international fame courtesy of inclusion on David Lynch‘s Lost Highway soundtrack, fame seems not to have quelled any of Rammstein‘s wrath. While there have been a few notable forays into writing in English, Spanish and even Russian, most of their lyrics are in German which for a non-speaker is a bit of a pity as despite the growling their songs make clever use of wordplay, occasionally delve into classic literature and reference current events. Spectators shouldn‘t worry too much about the nuances though when their live shows are described by fans and critics alike with the following motto: Other bands play, Rammstein burns.

Feb Time Event Venue01 19:00 La traviata MAT03 19:00 La Bohème MIT04,05 19:00 Betrothal in the

monasterySPO

03 19:00 Mazepa MAT05 19:00 The Queen of Spades MIT07 19:00 Il tabarro. Suor Angelica.

Gianni SchicchiMAT

09 19:00 The rape of Lucretia SPO09 19:00 Carmen MAT09,10 19:00 Cavalleria Rusticana MIT10 19:00 Rigoletto SPO11 19:00 Eugene Onegin SPO12 11:30 Die Zauberflöte MCH12 19:00 Bohemia SPO12 19:00 Sadko MAT14 19:00 Eugene Onegin MIT15 19:00 La belle Helene SPO17 19:00 Il falegname di Livonia,

Ossia Pietro il GrandeSPO

18,19 19 :00,13:00

L`elisir d`amore MIT

18 19:00 Cio-Cio-San SPO19 19:00 Lucia di Lammermur SPO22 19:00 La traviata SPO24 19:00 Boris Godunov. An

accessory`s versionSPO

26 19:00 I Pagliacci SPO29 19:00 Don Juan SPOMar Time Event Venue06 19:00 Cosi fan tutte MAT08 19:00 Madama Butterfly MAT09 19:00 Tosca MIT11 11:30 Shurale MAT13 19:00 The Makropulos Affair MAT14 19:00 Eugene Onegin MAT16 19:00 Macbeth MAT18 11:30 Die Zauberflöte MCH23 19:00 La traviata MIT25 19:00 La Bohème MIT27 19:00 Rusalka MIT31 19:00 Iolanta MIT

Opera and Operetta

25-02 19:00 C-2, Manezh Kadetskogo Korpus, Universitetskaya nab. 13, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 363 33 33, www.usadba-jazz.ru/spb. Usu-ally taking place outdoors in the summer, Usadba jazz has now added an indoor winter festival to its annual schedule. Usadba Jazz Zima will be inviting an exciting selection of local and international musicians who are representa-tive of the wide variety of styles that the label ‘jazz’ now encompasses. Ukrainian soul-funk singer Jamala will keep the crowd moving with her blend of classical and funk rhythms that have her helped become one of Ukraine’s most respected pop stars. Saxophonist Pee Wee Ellis and trombonist Fred Wesley (the so-called ‘fathers of funk’) will show why they are still some of the most loved funk musi-cians in the world and Moscow’s Nikolai Moiseenko Project promise some smooth jazz credentials accompanied by the velvety voice of Ksenia Kolambatskoy. St. Petersburg will be represented on the line-up by Fun2Mass and their instrumental funk and r’n’b sound. Q Tickets 1,500Rbl.

Usadba Jazz Zima


13CULTURE & EVENTS

14.02 Tuesday19:00 Alessandro SafinaD-3, Oktyabrsky Grand Hall (BKZ), Ligovsky pr. 6, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 380 80 50, www.alessandro-safina.info. The Italian tenor will be visiting St. Petersburg this Valentine‘s Day for a romantic concert titled The Magic of Love. Safino tends to try to popularise his genre of singing by mixing pop and classical and has already promised to sing some of the old favourite Italian chansons such as Volare and Luna. Q Tickets 600 - 3,000Rbl.

17.02 Friday19:00 Ballet Gala - The Stars from Two CitiesD-3, Oktyabrsky Grand Hall (BKZ), Ligovsky pr. 6, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 275 13 00, www.bkz.ru. Atten-tion ballet fans - this is a gala you need to know about! The stars of Russia‘s most celebrated theatres; the Mariinsky, Mikhailovsky, Bolshoi and Stanislavsky, will all share one stage for this very special celebration of Russian ballet. The line-up reads like a who’s-who of the Russian ballet world and includes Anastasia and Denis Matvienko, Igor Zelensky, Natalia Osipova, Ivan Vasiliev, Igor Kolb and many, many oth-ers. They will be dancing extracts from numerous well-known ballets including Swan Lake, La Sylphide, Le Corsairs, Don Quixote and Spartacus. Q Tickets 800 - 3,500Rbl.

19.02 Sunday19:00 Budapest Gypsy Symphony OrchestraD-3, Oktyabrsky Grand Hall (BKZ), Ligovsky pr. 6, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 380 80 50, www.100violins.com. Also known as 100 violins because the instrumental make-up is 85% strings (with 60 violins and nine violas) with the remaining 15% made up of clarinets and cimbaloms - it‘s as chaotic and frenetic as you can imagine. The orchestra particularly enjoys playing the works of Tchaikovsky, Brahms and John Strauss in addition to their repertoire of traditional Slavic folk tunes. For their Russian audience the orchestra promises to perform some traditional Russian melodies as well as their native Hungarian. Q Tickets 800 - 4,500Rbl.

19.02 Sunday20:00 The WailersB-1, Club Cosmonavt, ul. Bronnitskaya 24, MTekhno-logichesky institut, tel. (+7) 812 922 13 00. Following the death of their leader Bob Marley in 1981, some of the remaining members of The Wailers stuck together and de-cided to keep performing. Confusingly enough the band split in two in 2008 and now there is also another reggae band also still gigging who call themselves ‚The Original Wailers‘. Regardless these Wailers know all the most famous tracks such as Could You Be Loved? and Exodus backwards. Q Tickets 1,500 - 2,500Rbl.

19.02 Sunday20:00 KvartalClub Jagger, pl. Konstitutsii 2, MMoskovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 292 20 02, www.kvartalmuz.ru. Legendary home-grown jazz-funk-soul project led by the unmistakably seductive vocals of lead singer Tatiana Litvienko. Admittedly their sound is a little retro for the 21st Century, especially on the more chanson focused numbers but just wait until they play their big 1980s hit Paramaribo, which sounds oddly enough like a very lounge ver-sion of Wham!’s Club Tropicana. Q Tickets 700 - 1,800Rbl.

22.02 Wednesday20:00 Stereo MCsD-4, GlavClub, ul. Kremenchugskaya 2, MPl. Aleksandra Nevskogo, tel. (+7) 812 905 75 55, www.glavclub.com. Back in the 1990s when American hip-hop was headed straight to the ghetto, UK rappers were raving and drinking lager with the lads. Which is where the Stereo MCs come in. They were arguably Britain‘s first mainstream hip-hop group, but what made them stand out was their dance club tempo and house music beats. In later years their sound lost its edge, but as they don‘t often tour we are guessing they will treat the crowd to the greatest hits. Q Tickets 800-2,000Rbl.

23.02 Thursday - 29.02 WednesdaySnow Show of Slava PoluninD-2, Mikhailovsky Theatre, Pl. Iskusstv 1, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 335 75 75, www.slavasnowshow.com. Nominated for the Tony Award for Best Special Theatrical Event in 2009, Slava Polunin‘s Snow Show deftly mixes the traditional clown arts of mime and physical comedy with pared down aesthetic sensibilities that is often as beautifully melancholic as it is humorous. Polunin describes his pantomime as „Expres-sive Idiotism“ and he can silently rage in frustration against a missing balloon and display a longing for human understanding in the simple cleaning of an overcoat. Highly recommended for all ages. Q Tickets 1,250 - 6,000Rbl.

Feb Time Event Venue01,02 19:00 The Nutcracker MIT04 19:00 Ballets by George

BalanchineMAT

04 13:00, 19:00

Giselle MIT

05 19:00 Le Corsaire MAT07,11,12

19:00 The Sleeping Beauty MIT

11,15 19:00 The Nutcracker IHT15,16 19:00 La Bayadère MIT21 19:00 Ekaterina Borchenko

GalaMIT

29 19:00 Swan Lake IHTMar Time Event Venue02,09 19:00 Swan Lake MAT06 19:00 The Nutcracker IHT07 19:00 Laurencia MIT08 13:00,

19:00Laurencia MIT

10 19:00 Cipollino MIT11 11:30 Shurale (premiere) MAT17 19:00 The Little Humpbacked

HorseMAT

18 11:30 Pétrouchka. Chopiniana. Polovtsian Dance

MAT

21,28 19:00 Night of Russian ballet IHT28-30 19:00 The Sleeping Beauty MIT

Ballet


14 CULTURE & EVENTS

23.02 Thursday20:00 Infected MushroomB-1, Club Cosmonavt, ul. Bronnitskaya 24, MTekhno-logichesky institut, tel. (+7) 812 922 13 00, www.infected-mushroom.com. Israeli psychedelic trance collec-tive. Infected Mushroom are a rather acquired taste, just in the same way death metal is, but if you are into fast trance raves you know where to go. Q Tickets 900 - 2,000Rbl.

25.02 Saturday20:00 Okean ElziB-1, Club Cosmonavt, ul. Bronnitskaya 24, MTekhno-logichesky institut, tel. (+7) 812 922 13 00, www.kosmonavt.su. This cult indie-rock Ukrainian band, though formed already for 15 years, really got started during the Orange Revolution. Wildly popular throughout the whole country, their songs (much quoted by the Ukrainian press) are widely considered to be the voice of the people. Being the most popular band in Ukraine, they played over 100 concerts in 2010 as part of a tour to promote their latest album and now they are back on the road once again. Q Tickets 1,200-5,500Rbl.

26.02 Sunday20:00 Hadouken!B-1, Club Zal Ozhidaniya, Nab. Obvodnogo kanala 118, MBaltiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 333 10 68, www.hadouken.com. British electronic collective from North England whose fast and hard grime sound and confrontational style has earned them positive comparisons with British dance vet-erans such as The Prodigy and elevated them into the top ranks of British dance music. Put on your dancing shoes, crack open a Red Bull and get ready to sweat. Q Tickets 1,000 - 2,000Rbl.

26.02 Sunday12:00 - 21:00 Maslenitsa at Elagin Island (TSPKIO)D-1, Elagin Ostrov, MKrestovsky Ostrov, tel. (+7) 812 430 10 10, www.elaginpark.spb.ru. Maslenitsa, some-times known in other countries as Mardi Gras or Carnival, is Russia‘s pancake week. This year maslentitsa, the week before Lent when Russians load up on pancakes and treats to prepare themselves for 40 days of fasting, lasts from February 20th to 26th. On the last day of Maslenitsa, there‘s usually a union of pagan and Christian traditions when a huge effigy - representing the winter - is burned and people celebrate the imminent arrival of spring. This Sunday at Elagin island there‘ll be a huge celebration which will include all the most fun elements of the Maslenitsa tradition.Games, contests, prizes and live music will be taking place all day long. A horse show is promised, as well as clowns, comedy theatre and sleigh rides. Furthermore there will be not one but two open-air ice-rinks, an arts and crafts market, the chance to make your own panacakes, folk dancing, an ice fortress and a free blin for every visitor.

March Events02.03 Friday20:00 Rise AgainstB-1, Club Cosmonavt, ul. Bronnitskaya 24, MTekhno-logichesky institut, tel. (+7) 812 922 13 00, www.riseagainst.com. American hardcore punk rock band known for their politically-charged lyrics and powerful videos. Rise Against are as heavily into activism as they are rock and are staunch supporters of the anti-fur campaign PETA. They are also said to be totally ‚straight edge‘ and completely abstain from drugs and alcohol. Not your average hardcore punks then. Q Tickets 1,500 - 2,500Rbl.

18.02 Saturday - 26.02 ThursdayMusical Hermitage FestivalC/D-2, Imperial Hermitage Theater, Dvortsovaya nab. 34, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 495 70 43, www.hermitagemusic.ru. Now in its ninth year, this festival brings together award-winning musicians of multiple musi-cal genres from all over the world. Highlights of this year‘s festival include an electric night of anything goes intel-lectual jazz, and even rock, courtesy of the polish pianist Leszek Możdżer and Swedish bass player Lars Danielsson on February 19. Opera fans should enjoy Belcanto on February 26 where the winners of the International Opera Competition in Spoletto will perform and for jazz fans there‘s more new international jazz sounds on February 23 and 25. Q Tickets 600 - 1,000Rbl.

Feb Time Event18.02 19:00 Festival opening. Hugo Ticciati (UK),

Michael Tsalka (Israel)

19.02 19:00 ACT Music (jazz): Leszek Możdżer (Poland), Lars Danielsson (Sweden).

23.02 19:00 Dag Arnesen Trio (Norweigan jazz): Dag Arnesen, Pål Thowsen, Ellen Andrea Wang (Norway)

25.02 19:00 ECM Records (jazz): Norma Winstone (UK), Klaus Gesing (Germany), Glauco Venier (Italy).

26.02 19:00 Closing ceremony. Belcanto (opera). Mats Liljefors (Sweden)

Musical Hermitage


15CULTURE & EVENTS

02.03 Friday - 10.03 SaturdayLe Crazy Horse СabaretD-2, DK Lensoveta, Kamennoostrovsky pr. 42, MPetro-gradskaya, tel. (+7) 812 346 30 68, www.lecrazy-horseparis.com. Riske Parisian cabaret. The famous burlesque show is back in Russia again celebrating the more glamourous side of the striptease. The cheeky French girls from Paris, show off the very best type of burlesque; all of the acts which make up the show are sexy, beautiful, well-choreo-graphed and naturally a little bit tongue-in-cheek. Le Crazy Horse Paris is a flirty and fun celebration of female beauty with gorgeous costumes and equally stunning dancers.

09.03 Friday19:00 Dmitry Malikov - PianomaniaD-3, Oktyabrsky Grand Hall (BKZ), Ligovsky pr. 6, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 703 40 40, www.pianoma-nia.ru. The idea behind Malikov‘s Pianomania project is to make classical music more exciting and accessible to a wider audience. To that end there will be 180 performers on stage in what promises to be a hugely entertaining musical extravaganza. That number includes Malikov on the piano, a full symphony orchestra, a choir and ballet dancers. The ensemble will perform a medley of popular hits by the likes of Tchaikovsky, Mozart and Ravel. Q Tickets 800 - 4,000Rbl.

22.03 Thursday21:00 Hindi ZahraB-1, Club Cosmonavt, ul. Bronnitskaya 24, MTekhnolog-ichesky institut, tel. (+7) 812 922 13 00, www.hindi-zahra.com. Born and raised in Morocco, Hindi Zahra moved to Paris when she was 15 and started teaching herself music. It wasn‘t until 2010 however, when Hindi (already 30 years old) finally broke into the mainstream with her album Handmade. Her rise to stardom looks like it will continue swiftly though as she has already penned more than 50 songs (mostly in English) over the years. With a soothing voice reminiscent of Sade and a musical style which blends a smooth soul-jazz with soft North African beats and instruments, she is easy to like. Q Tickets 800 - 2,000Rbl.

03.03 Saturday - 24.03 SaturdayAmerican Seasons. Festival of Traditional American MusicD-3, St. Petersburg Jazz Philharmony, Zagorodny pr. 27, MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 812 764 85 65. There are two concerts this March in St. Petersburg as part of the American Seasons Festival which is bringing the sounds of traditional American Music to new Russian audiences. On March 03 Christine Balfa and her band Balfa Toujours will be showing off the Cajun spirit of the South, and on March 24 it‘s the turn of the cowboys when Wylie and the Wild West roll into town.

American Seasons

25.03 Sunday20:30 Igor ButmanClub Jagger, pl. Konstitutsii 2, MMoskovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 292 20 02, www.igorbutman.com. Unquestionably Russia‘s most celebrated jazz musician. Saxophonist and jazz band leader Igor Butman counts even former US President Bill Clinton as a fan (jazz lover Clinton called Butman ‘my favourite living saxophonist’) and is credited with helping put Russian jazz into the international spotlight. Nowadays as the organiser of various festivals, and owner of his own jazz club and record label, Butman is a busy guy and it‘s not often that you get to see him live in a solo concert like tonight rather than as part of a larger gala concert.

28.03 Wednesday - 01.04 Sunday19:00 The Aluminium ShowD-1, DK Lensoveta, Kamennoostrovsky pr. 42, MPetro-gradskaya, tel. (+7) 812 346 30 68, www.aluminum-show.com. A spectacu-larly bizarre but incredibly entertaining show where reclaimed industrial ma-terials become the stars of the stage. Energetic dancers immersed in giant aluminum tubing, wi th the help of stun-ning audio and visual effects take the viewer into an exciting world of robots, slinky creatures, mystery and adventure. The audience regularly become part of the show as huge aluminum clouds float over the crowd in a show that‘s thrilling and fun for all the family. Q Tickets TBA.

29.03 Thursday21:00 BebeClub Cosmonavt, ul. Bronnitskaya 24, MTekhno-logichesky institut, tel. (+7) 812 922 13 00, www.labebebellota.com. Feisty Spanish singer with emotionally charged songs, who is known for her energetic performances and onstage charisma. Accompanied by the Latin rhythms of a Spanish guitar, Bebe can do both danceable Latin pop and melancholy introspective love songs with ease. Combining an irresistible husky voice with a strong grasp of the latest directions in Latin music it‘s usually not long before she has the audience under her spell. Q Tickets TBA.


16 EXHIBITIONS

ExhibitionsThrough 31.03 SaturdayThe Longest DayD-2, State Museum Of Political History of Russia, Ul. Kuy-bysheva 2-4, MGorkovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 233 70 52, www.polithistory.ru. In collaboration with museums from Belarus, Germany and Poland, yet another fine exhibition at the State Museum of Political History has been put together to examine the effects of World War II on the lives of citizens both prominent and private. Particular focus is given to 22 June 1941, the date when Nazi Germany attacked the Soviet Union, plunging them into the war. Also part of the display of photographs, docu-ments and effects are 24 biographies of both Germans and Russians. A second part of the project is devoted to the Polish army under the Leadership of General W. An-ders. Q Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Thu and last Mon of the month. Admission100 - 200Rbl.

Through 13.05 SundayBroadened Perception. 150th anniversary of Mikhail Matyushin‘s birthdayD-1, St. Petersburg Museum of Avant-garde, ul. Prof. Popova 10, MPetrogradskaya, tel. (+7) 812 347 68 98, www.spbmuseum.ru. Presenting some 60 artworks from the outstanding St. Petersburg avant garde artist, musician and art theorist Mikhail Matyushin. Most of the works on display have never been seen before and offer a unique glimpse into the radical ideas and theories of the St. Petersburg artistic scene during the 1920s and 1930s. Q Open 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Wed. Admission 90Rbl.

Through 26.02 SundayAround this Place, the Memories are Alive. Menshikov Palace: 1711 - 2011C-2, Menshikov Palace, Universitetskaya nab. 15, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 323 11 12 , www.hermitage-museum.org. A special exhibition organised in collaboration with the Hermitage museum celebrating 300 years of St. Petersburg‘s first stone palace. Over 200 different items tell the building‘s his-tory as first the home of the wealthy Prince Menshikov and later the main building of St. Petersburg‘s cadet corps. Various paintings, maps, sketches, sculptures, books, costumes, weapons and archaeological f inds demonstrate how the pal-ace‘s function changed over the years before i t finally became a fully fledged mu-seum in 1981. Q Open Tue Sat 10.30 - 18.00, Sun 10.30 - 17.00. Closed Mon.

30.03 Friday20:00 Ben L‘Oncle SoulB-1, Club Cosmonavt, ul. Bronnitskaya 24, MTekhno-logichesky institut, tel. (+7) 812 922 13 00, www.kosmonavt.su. Part of a new wave of young French soul singers, Ben l‘Oncle Soul‘s look is styled after Uncle Ben from the brand of rice (his signature outfit features a bowtie). Famous for his quirky cover versions of songs like Katy Perry‘s I kissed a Girl, it was his popular cover of the White Stripes‘ Seven Nation Army which caught the attention of Mowtown Records and secured him a record contract. Inspired by the likes of Marvin Gaye and Otis Reading and possess-ing a great voice and stage presence he‘s more than just a novelty act though and is proving it with a flood of new self-penned soul numbers. Q Tickets 1,500Rbl.

FC Zenit St. Petersburg are currently Russia’s top team. As well as riding high in the Russian league, under the direc-tion of manager Luciano Spaelleti the siny, byely goluboi (navy, blue and whites) are now though to the last 16 of the prestigious UEFA Champions League. On February 15 they face Benfica on home turf at the Petrovsky stadium, in what should be a tough game for the Lisbon team. The second leg, which will decide who gets through to the Quarter Finals of one of the most important tournaments in European football, will be played in Portugal on March 06. Zenit will also be playing what should be an easy game at home against Kuban Krasnodar on March 11 and will travel to Moscow on March 03 to play their nearest rivals in the Russian league CSKA Moscow.Petrovsky Stadium C-1, Petrovsky Island, M Sportivnaya, tel. (+7) 812 232 16 22, www.en.fc-zenit.ru

FC Zenit St. Petersburg


17EXHIBITIONS

Through 29.02 WednesdayThe Admiralty. On the 250th Anniversary of A.D. ZakharovD-2, The Peter and Paul Fortress, MGorkovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 230 64 31, www.spbmuseum.ru. For the 250th birthday of the architect of one of St. Petersburg‘s most iconic buildings - the Admiralty - the St. Petersburg State History museum has worked together with the city‘s naval museum to create this exhibition which shows the growth of the city‘s shipyards and docks. Paintings and sketches made by Zakharov are combined with photography and paintings from the 19th Century as well as models of earlier unsuccessful designs for the area. Q Open 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Wed. Admission 200-350Rbl.

Through 31.12 MondayThe Russian Style. Style of life and art.D-2, The Peter and Paul Fortress, The Engineers‘ House, MGorkovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 230 64 31, www.spbmu-seum.ru. What does it mean to be Russian? This is a question that plagued philosophers throughout the ages, but particularly during the 19th Century when the Russian Empire wished to foster a renewed sense of nationalism after the centuries of ‘Europeanisation‘ started by Peter the Great. It is around this time that ideas of ‘Russian style‘ began to be cemented. Folk art became popular art and clothing, furniture, crockery, post-ers and even food that looked distinctively traditional Russian became instantly fashionable. This exhibition explores the new fashions which grew in the 19th and 20th Century inspired by traditional folk art and reveals how designs which we may consider to be intrinsically Russian were cre-ated by the best artists of the time. Q Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Wed. Admission 200-350Rbl.

Through 30.03 FridayIce Fairy Tale Pr. Kosmonavtov 14 (next to Raduga Shopping Center), MPark Pobedy. It may be quite a journey getting out to this shopping mall, but if you are a fan of ice sculpture, this special ‘ice museum‘ promises to be the best of its kind in the city this winter. Over 1,100 tons of crystal clear ice and 300 tons of snow have been used to create a winter fairytale world Ice palaces, a maze and bell towers make up the fairytale land which is lit up in many colours and filled with snow maidens, ice princes, evil sorcerers and other magical creatures. QOpen 11:00 - 20:00.

Through 12.03 MondayHolidays in RussiaD-2, The Russian Museum, Benois Wing, Kan. Griboedova 2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 570 51 12, www.rusmu-seum.ru. With the common theme of Russians celebrating, this is a highly enjoyable exhibition showing Russian people doing what they do best - organising really great parties! The 250 paintings, sketches and pieces of applied folk art reveal a mixture of types of Russian holidays, from the divine religious holidays such as Easter and Christmas, pagan superstitions and midsummer rituals, imperial balls and colourful city processions. The new holidays introduced in the Soviet era are also represented, with impressive social-realist paint-ings showing the celebrations of May Day, Victory Day and of course the holiday marking the great October revolution. Q Open 10:00 - 18:00, Mon 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Tue. Admission 150-300Rbl.

Through 11.03 SundayHerculaneum AntiquitiesD-2, The Stage Hermitage Museum, Fifth Yard of the General Staff Building, Palace Square, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 710 90 79, www.hermitagemuseum.org. This exhibition in the General Staff Building compliments the Hermitage‘s already stunning collection of ancient Roman antiquities very well. Murals and bronze and marble sculptures uncovered from Herculaneum show how the city prospered right before it was engulfed by lava flows from mount Vesuvius in 79AD. Highlights of the exhibit include marble statues of Emperor Claudius and Titus Flavius Vespian in full military gear. Q Open 10:30 - 18:00, Sun 10:30 - 17:00. Closed Mon.

In Your Pocket goes into the movie business... Kind of... Over the past few months we have gradually been putting together some extensive video guides to various In Your Pocket cities, using our own editors, writers and local researchers as presenters. You can see much of our video content embedded on our website at inyour-pocket.com, or view all our videos in one place on our YouTube channel: youtube.com/inyourpocket.

In Your Pocket Video Guides

Larger European acts that have still not quite made it far enough into the big time to sell-out stadiums and concert halls can generally be found in the large ex-cinema Cos-monavt, Club Jagger out in the southern suburbs or Zal Ozhidanya (literally waiting room) in the back of the old train depot. If you want to catch up–and-coming Russian bands trying to make their way on the local scene check out Fish Fabrique Nouvelle or Tsokol, where the concerts are generally very budget or even free and movie screen-ings are also often part of the deal.

Club Cosmonavt D-4, Ul. Bronnitskaya 24, MTekh-nologichesky Institut, tel. (+7) 812 922 13 00, www.kosmonavt.su.Club Fish Fabrique Nouvelle E-3, Ligovsky pr. 53, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 764 48 57.Club Jagger Pl. Konstitutsii 2, MMoskovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 923 12 92, jaggerclub.ru.Club Zal Ozhidaniya Nab. Obvodnogo kanala 118, MBaltiyskaya, tel. (+7) 812 333 10 68, www.clubzal.com.Tsokol D/E-3, Ul. 3-ya Sovetskaya 2/3, MPl. Voss-taniya, tel. (+7) 812 274 94 67, www.zoccolo.ru

Best Concert Places


18 EXHIBITIONS

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Press Box03.02 Friday - 01.04 SundayArctic Hysteria. Modern Art of FinlandC-2, The State Russian Centre of Photography (ROS-PHOTO), Ul. Bolshaya Morskaya 35, MAdmiralteyskaya, tel. (+7) 812 314 12 14, www.rosphoto.org. The works of 15 contemporary Finnish artists make up this exhibit exploring the newest art of Russia‘s northern neighbour. Photography, video, sculpture and installation art all feature in an exhibition which also aims to tackle the issues faced by the people of the north, namely what this exhibition calls ‘Arctic hysteria‘ - a peculiar kind of gloom that will be familiar to anyone who has spent the winter living north of the 59th parallel. Q Open 11:00 - 19:00. Admission 100 - 200Rbl.

12.03 Monday - 20.05 SundayBryullov. Unknown and famous.D-2, The Russian Museum, Mikhailovsky Castle, ul. Sadovaya 2, MGostiny Dvor, tel. (+7) 812 570 51 12, www.rusmuseum.ru. This exhibition will be the biggest yet display of the works of 19th Century Russian painter Karl Bryullov. One of the first Russian painters to combine neoclas-sicism with the new romantic trends of the 19th Century he was held in high regard by his peers and both Pushkin and Gogol compared his greatest masterpieces to the best works of Rubens and Van Dyck. Himself a fan of portraiture he re-ceived the greatest fame for his historical paintings, although as the title of this exhibition points out, his skills have been somewhat forgotten by the history books.

Tickets for most events can be bought at ticket offices and kiosks (teatralnaya kassa), of which there are many in the city centre – they are usually very easy to spot as they tend to be plastered in posters for concerts and shows. Of course each venue also sells its own tickets and some venues such as the Mariinsky Theatre also sell tickets online. There are also a number of online services that allow you to reserve and/or buy tickets online and most of them offer delivery anywhere in the city for an additional fee. Tickets that are reserved need to be pur-chased within three days or the reservation expires. Kassir.ru The only comprehensive website that offers their event listings in English. Payment options include cash (when picking up the tickets or if delivered) or credit card (MC/V). Bileter.ru This site has the most comprehensive list-ings available, but is only in Russian. Payment options include cash (when picking up the tickets or if delivered) or credit card (MC/V). Mariinsky.ru The Mariinsky Theatre was the first theatre to offer online tickets. Like the other sites, tickets must be purchased 72 hours after they are reserved. Tickets can be picked up from either of the theatre’s two box offices, during opening hours or even just before the performance. Payment options include credit card (MC/V) or cash.

Buying Tickets


19KAZANPopularly referred to as Russia’s third capital, Kazan is the city (as accords their official slogan) ‘Where Europe meets Asia’. As the capital of the Russian Republic of Tatarstan , Kazan mixes a rich Muslim Tatar culture - with its own language and government - with Western Slavic influences and is famous for being a particularly religiously tolerant and friendly city. For those looking to see where European and Asian Russia meet and enjoy a glimpse into one of the country’s most vibrant non-Slavic republics, there’s probably no better starting point than Kazan.

SightseeingThe undoubted must see place in Kazan is the UNESCO listed Kremlin and in particular its famous mosque and the Hermitage Kazan centre. After you‘ve done the Kremlin make sure to take a walk down Ulitsa Kremlevskaya to admire the city‘s 19th Century mansions, pop into the stunning Peter and Paul Cathedral along the way and then enjoy a lazy stroll along the pedestrianised Ulitsa Baumana which is full of cafes, bars and restaurants to rest up in.

Around TownMuseum of 1000 years of Kazan Ploschad Sultana Gulieyeva, MPloshchad Tukaya, tel. (+7) 843 238 33 61. This museum was built to honour Kazan‘s millennial birthday in 2005 and a collection of ancient artifacts, scrip-tures, pictures and maps trace the city‘s history. Behind the museum is a great view out over the Kazanka river.

National Museum of the Republic of Tatarstan Kremlevskaya ul. 2, MKremlevskaya, tel. (+7) 843 292 89 84, www.tatar.museum.ru. The building which houses this museum is an impressive example of the grand 18th Century architectural style which was brought to Kazan during Peter the Great‘s reign. Inside is a museum mostly dedicated to Tatar arts and crafts and culture over the last few centuries. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon.

Peter and Paul Cathedral Ul. Musy Dzhalilya 21, MKremlevskaya, tel. (+7) 843 292 13 58. Decorated in the so-called Naryshkin style, this beautiful 18th Century cathedral was built to commemorate Peter the Great‘s visit to the city in 1726. Featuring a vibrant and distinctive exterior decoration it‘s a rare example of the Russian baroque move-ment. The lower chapel based in the tower was used in the winter (it is smaller and has no windows). The upper part of the church (reached by climbing the steep stone staircase) has tall ceilings and unusually for an Orthodox church - win-dows which let in a special ethereal light effect at certain times of day. The highlight of the cathedral is the view over the town from the top of the church steps.

Kazan KremlinAnnunciation Cathedral Kremlin, MKremlevskaya, tel. (+7) 843 567 80 73, www.kazan-kremlin.ru. Erected between 1556 and 1562, this is Kazan‘s most important cathedral and the home of the holiest copy of the Our Lady of Kazan icon, which was presented to the city by Pope John Paul II in 2005. The cathedral, which was built in a style similar to that of the Assumption cathedral in the Moscow Kremlin, was destroyed many times by fire over the centuries and fol-lowing the Bolshevik revolution it suffered yet more damage as the Soviets destroyed the bell tower and other ecclesias-tical buildings which surrounded it. In the 1990s concerted restoration work began and in summer 2005 the cathedral once again began to accept worshipers as it returned to its function as a working place of worship.

Possibly the most revered and well-known Russian Orthodox icon, Our Lady of Kazan was discovered in Kazan in 1579. The story goes that there was a huge fire in the city, which started in the house of a local merchant. Following the devastation his young daughter began to dream of an icon of the Virgin Mary hidden in the debris. Her family ignored her tales, but as the girls’ dream continued to recur she decided to go on a search for the hidden icon herself. After investigating the ruins of her father’s house she found the icon hidden deep under the furnace. It was in immaculate condition and soon began to be associated with various miracles. As the fame of the icon grew, churches were built in its honour across the Empire, copies were made and the icon travelled across the country to assist during Russia’s darkest hours such as during the Polish invasion of 1612, the Swedish inva-sion in 1709 and during the Napoleonic wars.

In 1904 tragedy stuck when Our Lady was stolen from her home in Kazan by thieves who were seduced by the many jewels which covered the icon frame. The disap-pearance of the icon was credited by many believers to be the cause of many of the terrible events of the following year including the peasant’s revolt of 1905 and Russia’s defeat in the Russo-Japanese war. The thieves were caught some years later, but by this point only the frame remained. Some of the gang of thieves claimed that the icon was chopped up and burnt, while others said that it was hidden in a remote monastery in the depths of Siberia. The intrigue continued when the police discovered an icon in Siberia which resembled the original – however fearing the consequences of venerating a false copy, they deemed the icon yet another copy. During Soviet times theories abounded that the Bolsheviks had found the icon and sold it abroad and during the 1970s a new contender was found in Fatima, Portugal. Experts tested the icon and found however that it too was a copy dating back to 1730.In 1993 the Fatima icon was given to Pope John Paul II who hung it in his study. On the Pope’s initiative this version of Our Lady of Kazan was returned to the city of Kazan in 2005 and is now housed in the annunciation Cathedral in the Kremlin. The original icon however is still missing without trace.

Our Lady of Kazan


20 KAZAN

Hermitage Kazan Centre Opened with the help of the Hermitage museum, this cultural centre regularly plays host to historical and art exhibitions brought especially to Kazan from St. Petersburg‘s great Hermitage museum. Until 27 May 2012 the centre is showing a stunning exhibition of more than 200 paintings, drawings, sculptures and other artifacts from Spain dating from the 15th to the 20th centuries. Names such as Velazquez and Goya feature and alongside the stunning art, there‘s also a large dedication to traditional Spanish crafts such as lace-making, carved bone, bronze and silver artistry, weaponry, pottery and glasswork. QOpen 10:00 - 17:45, Fri 10:00 - 16:45. Closed Mon. Tickets 50-120Rbl.

Qul Sharif Mosque In the 16th Century prior to the inva-sion of Kazan a mosque stood here which was named after its leading teacher Qol Sharif. Qol Sharif died alongside his students trying to save the mosque from the Tsar‘s forces, but unfortunately it was destroyed in 1522 and for centuries the site remained empty. Following the fall of the Soviet Union, with the help of many other counties including Saudi Arabia and UAE, the mosque was rebuilt, albeit in a modern style. The impressive new mosque was finally inaugurated in 2005 when Kazan celebrated its millennium and now stands as a prominent symbol of the city, rightly recognised as one of Kazan‘s most worthy sights as well as Europe‘s largest mosque. The Qol Sharif largely functions as a museum although thousands of Muslims do gather here to pray on major religious holidays.

Soyembika Tower Kazan‘s very own leaning tower. The striking 55 metre high tower with a slight lean is heavily associated with a legend surrounding Princess Soyembika, one of the last great rulers of Kazan. According to the legend Ivan the Terrible proposed marriage to the beautiful leader, but she refused him and so Ivan instead decided to lay siege to her city. After much destruction she finally relented and agreed to marry the Tsar - but only if he proved his worthi-ness by building her a seven storey tower within a week. After seven days the Tsar‘s workers had completed the task and so Soyembika reluctantly climbed to the top of the tower, took one last look over her city and leapt to her death. Of course the dramatic tale is purely legend. Soyembika was in fact taken by the Tsars guards during the siege and forced into exile where she eventually died alone. The true origins of the tower are still shrouded in mystery however and some scholars claim that the tower may date back to before Ivan the Terrible‘s invasion of Kazan, while others claim it was built following the Tsar‘s conquering of the city. If the tower looks familiar then you are probably being reminded of Moscow‘s Kazan station, whose design was by inspired it. Unfortunately the tower can only be admired from the outside.

Restaurants in KazanBeer Lozha Ul. Pushkina 5, MPloshchad Tukaya, tel. (+7) 843 292 24 36, www.ofsrussia.ru. A large Bavarian style beerhouse serving quality brews by the litre and German sausages and other meaty fare.QOpen 12:00 - 02:00, Sun 14:00 - 02:00. PAEW

Dom Tatarskoy Kulinary Ul. Baumana 31/12, MPloshchad Tukaya, tel. (+7) 843 292 35 20, domtk.ru. Traditional Tatar cuisine in plush surroundings resplendent with bold Tatar colours and patterns.QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. PAEW

Pizzeria Giuseppe Kremlevskaya ul. 15/25, MKrem-levskaya, tel. (+7) 843 292 69 34, www.giuseppe.ru. The first place to sell pizza in Kazan, Giuseppe is still thought to be one of the best places for Italian cuisine in the city centre.QOpen 09:30 - 21:30. PAW

Kazan NightlifeCoyote Ugly Ul. Baumana 13, MKremlevskaya, tel. (+7) 843 292 45 08, coyoteugly.ru/kaz. The third bar in Russia from the American chain famous for its gorgeous girls who have fast and furious skills behind the bar.QOpen 20:00 - 06:00.

Cuba Libre Ul. Baumana 58, MPloshchad Tukaya, tel. (+7) 843 253 55 32, www.cubakazan.ru. A genuine Cuban bar hidden in an alley just off Kazan‘s main street.QOpen 12:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 05:00. PAEX

Russia’s third city and the capital of the largely Muslim, Russian Autonomous Republic of Tatarstan, Kazan has always played a prominent role in Russian history. During the Middle Ages, Kazan was a grand duchy of the Mongol Golden Horde who ruled much of Central Asia and con-sistently laid siege to cities in European Russia. In 1552 Ivan the Terrible declared war on Kazan and during his siege of the city it was almost entirely burnt to the ground. Kazan’s destruction marked the last days of the ‘Tatar yoke’ and the city became part of Ivan the Terrible’s new Russian empire. In 1612 during the ‘Times of Troubles’ Kazan declared independence from Russia, but the move was brutally crushed by the army of Minin (whose statue you can find in front of Moscow’s St. Basils’ Cathedral). It was not until the reign of Catherine the Great that the city finally saw lasting peace and a resurgence of Tatar culture as the Empress decreed that Tatars should be allowed to build Muslim places of worship and other build-ings intended to nurture Tatar traditions. The 18th and 19th Centuries were a golden age for Kazan, rich merchants built fabu-lous palaces, a grand uni-versity was founded and Orthodox churches and mosques began to flour-ish in equal measure. Dur-ing Soviet times Tatarstan remained an autonomous republic of the USSR and in 1990 when the Russian Federation was formed, Tatarstan became a Rus-sian republic complete with its own government and constitution.

Tatar History


21KAZAN

Getting there:By Train: From St. Petersburg there is only one direct train a day to Kazan which leaves from Moskovsky station (metro Pl. Vosstaniya). The journey takes ap-proximately 21 hours and leaves St. Petersburg at 16:13 arriving in Kazan the next day at 14:02. Alternatively you can take a train to Moscow and then catch one of the several evening trains which leave from Moscow’s Kazansky station (metro Komsomolskaya).By Plane: Russian airlines Aeroflot, Transaero and S7 and Air France are the main (and safest) airlines which fly to Kazan. There are no direct flights to Kazan from St. Petersburg although all of the above mentioned companies offer connecting flights via Moscow (resulting in an approximately 4-5hr journey). Kazan airport is a 30 minutes drive from the city centre.Getting around KazanPublic Transport: Kazan is mainly serviced by a net-work of buses and trolleybuses. The fare for one ride is 18Rbl. In 2005 Kazan also opened its own underground system with seven stations stretched over one line. Most tourists will not need to use the metro although it can be a quick way to get between the Kremlin and your hotel for example.Taxis: Taxis are a very quick and easy way to get around town and it is usually not difficult to find one (unlike in some other Russian cities). Most official taxis run on metres, although they may also accept to agree on a set price before setting off. From the train station to the centre 100-200Rbl is more than fair, whilst going to the airport the average cost is around 800Rbl.

The Basics

This article is a part of our online In Your Pocket guide to Kazan. For a full online guide to the city

and free pdf Kazan In Your Pocket print guide head to our website russia.inyourpocket.com

Irish Pub Dublin Ul. Ostrovskogo 39/6, MPloshchad Tukaya, tel. (+7) 843 292 67 01, irpub.ru. Probably the best pub in Kazan. The Dublin has plenty of atmosphere.QOpen 11:00 until last guest. E

Hostels in KazanBulgaru Universitetskaya ul.4/34, MPloshchad Tu-kaya, tel. (+7) 843 267 18 80, www.bulgaru-hostel.com. QOpen 24hrs. Dorm beds 400 - 600Rbl. NW

Gorky 6 Hostel and Mini-hotel Ul. Gorkogo 6, MPlosh-chad Tukaya, tel. (+7) 905 020 10 60, kazan-hostel.ru. QOpen 24hrs. Dorm beds 500 - 1,400Rbl. NW

I & I Hostel Ul. Zhukovskogo 23, MKremlevskaya, tel. (+7) 960 044 12 49, inihostel.ru.Q Dorm beds 550 - 650Rbl. Twin room 1,400Rbl. DW

Hotels in KazanCourtyard by Marriott Kazan Kremlin Ul. Karla Marksa 6, MKremlevskaya, tel. (+7) 843 567 40 00, www.kazancourtyard.ru.Q150 rooms (110 singles L, 40 doubles L, 8 suites L). VAT and breakfast are included. PTHARFBKW hhhh

Ibis Kazan Centre Hotel Pravo-Bulachnaya ul. 43/1, MPloshchad Tukaya, tel. (+7) 843 567 58 00, www.ibishotel.com.Q155 rooms (Singe/double 2000L). PHA6ULKW hhh

Park Inn Kazan Ul. Lefgasta 9-11, MPloshchad Tukaya, tel. (+7) 843 235 23 54, www.kazan.parkinn.ru. Q151 rooms (singles 3475 - 3975L, doubles 4375 - 5875L, suites 9550 - 10850L). PHAR6UFLGKW hhhh

Shalyapin Palace Hotel Universitetskaya ul. 7, MPloshchad Tukaya, tel. (+7) 843 238 28 00, www.shalyapin-hotel.ru. Q123 rooms (singles 2,600 - 5,500Rbl, doubles 5,200 - 7,000Rbl, suites 6,500 - 8,000Rbl, apart-ments 14,100 - 30,000Rbl). PHLKDW hhhh

Tatarstan Hotel Ul. Pushkina 4, MPloshchad Tukaya, tel. (+7) 843 231 67 04, hotel-tatarstan.ru. Q211 rooms (singles 2200 - 3000L, doubles 2800 - 3000L, suites 3400 - 4500L). PAKW hhh

Shopping centresTSUM Moskovskaya ul.2, MKremlevskaya, tel. (+7) 843 292 11 38, www.kazantsum.ru. Very easy to find - it is next to the strange pyramid shaped building opposite the Kremlin. The best thing about TSUM is the large branch of the Tatar supermarket Bakhtele, which sells homemade Tatar food. Reportedly the food at Bakhtele is so good that many Tatar women have actually stopped cooking traditional pies, stews, pelmeni and the like altogether because even they can‘t compete with the perfection of local dishes that this supermarket has achieved. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00.

Culture and EventsThe residents of Kazan are very proud of their theatres and most of them will insist that after having visited the Kremlin, you should also enjoy the city‘s rich cultural scene too.

Galiaskar Kamal State Academic Theatre Ul. Tatar-stan 1, MPloshchad Tukaya, tel. (+7) 843 293 03 74, www.kamalteatr.ru. Tartarstan‘s leading theatre and one of the most popular theatres in the whole country. Yes the plays are performed in the Tatar language, but it‘s ok! Every seat has headphones where you can listen to Russian or English translations. During the Soviet era Tatarstan was not allowed its own film studios and so theatre became the only way for actors to perform - hence the performances here are of consistently high quality.

Tatar State Academic Theatre of Opera and Ballet Pl. Svobody 2, MPloshchad Tukaya, tel. (+7) 843 231 57 10, www.kazan-opera.ru. Tatarstan‘s spiritual home of opera and ballet, this grand theatre was built in 1851, although the company‘s history dates back further to 1791. Their repertoire includes many international favourites such Aida, Giselle, Carmen, the Magic Flute and Rigoletto as well as numerous Russian clas-sics such as Boris Godunov, Sleeping Beauty, Eugene Onegin and Anyuta. Watch out also for performances of the home grown opera Jalil which tells the story of the local hero and poet who fought with partisan troops behind enemy lines during World War II.

Tatar State Philharmonic Ul. Pavlyukhina 73, MSu-konnaya Sloboda, tel. (+7) 843 277 19 91, tgf-rt.ru. Home of the state philharmonic orchestra who play a mixture of classical music and traditional Tatar pieces as well as jazz. Also often hosts classical musical festivals.


22 HOTELS

We have selected the best places in town for you. Prices include breakfast and VAT(18%) unless otherwise stated. All prices listed are valid for the months of February - March. Your hotel is usually obliged to register you. At some places registration is included, others charge extra.

5 StarsAngleterre Hotel C-2, Ul. Malaya Morskaya 24, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 494 56 66, www.angleter-rehotel.com. This luxury hotel in the heart of the city caters to its high-end business clients with multiple conference rooms, a unique amphitheatre style presentation hall and a fitness centre complete with a Finnish sauna and swimming pool. Rooms are cosy, comfy and contemporary in style with simple red accents and parquet flooring. Views of St. Isaac’s are unparalleled from their deluxe suites or the posh corner Caviar Bar. The Italian head chef has made Borsalino a destination for years with their expertly executed Italian dishes and pastries plus a business lunch buffet that changes daily. International exhibited painter Marina Fedorova’s cheeky, pop culture infused paintings adorn Borsalino, while photos of the Mikhailovsky ballet company liven up hallways of the upper storeys. Q193 rooms (103 singles 27,500 - 28,500Rbl, doubles 27,500 - 28,500Rbl, 4 suites 49,000 - 82,000Rbl, 12 executive 30,000 - 31,000Rbl, 3 superior deluxe 32,500 - 33,500Rbl, 49 deluxe 29,000 - 30,000Rbl). Extra bed (40 euro). VAT and breakfast (1,250Rbl) included.PTJHARFLGKDCW hhhhh

Astoria C-2, Ul. Bolshaya Morskaya 39, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 494 57 57, www.roccofortehotels.com. The elegant lobby features a sweeping spiral staircase, Rotonda lounge which offers afternoon tea and caviar, Kandinsky whiskey and cigar bar and Davidov restaurant. Throughout the hotel is steeped in history and great care has been taken to preserve the original marblework, crystal chandeliers and art nouveau accents. The rooms have been given contemporary upgrades such as all natural linens and rain showers. The presidential suites feature art, furniture and lighting from the original collec-tion. Other amenities include conference spaces in the historical Winter Garden and Ballroom, a wide choice of treatments at Decleor SPA and a branch of the Paris-based Carita salon. Q211 rooms (169 doubles 36,000 - 41,000Rbl, 42 suites 51,000 - 166,500Rbl). 211 rooms (169 doubles 10,000 - 18,000Rbl, 42 suites 30,000 - 100,000Rbl). Extra bed 1,400Rbl. Breakfast (1,650Rbl) and VAT included. Visa support free of charge. Reg-istration 150Rbl. PHAFGKDW hhhhh

Corinthia Hotel St. Petersburg D-3, Nevsky pr. 57, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 380 20 01, www.corinthia.com. Following a 90-million-euro refurbish-ment the Corinthia has now become the largest five-star conference and business hotel in the city. From the very entrance, compromising of a huge elegant lobby down to the stylishly modern rooms and excellent dining facilites, the impression is that this place has had a most thorough polish - the shine on those chandeliers is positively blind-ing! Happily the staff are just as welcoming as the rooms and the conference organisation is top class. Q388 rooms (43 suites 15,510 - 39,700Rbl, 250 single/double 6,800 - 18,800Rbl, 95 executive 11,560 - 23,500Rbl). Extra bed 2,250Rbl. Breakfast (1,410Rbl) not included. PTHARUIFLGKDXW hhhhh

Grand Hotel Europe D-2, Ul. Mikhailovskaya 1/7, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 329 60 00, www.grandho-teleurope.com. Occupying the full length of Mikhailovskaya Street, this palatial historical hotel has it all, from the original art-deco detailing to the exquisite, enormous bathrooms in the downstairs bar to the 60cm mattresses and plush divine room fittings. Suites themed around personages, places and institutions dear to the heart of St. Petersburg are gorgeously designed down to the last detail. There are also five top-notch restaurants including the popular Caviar Bar, authentic Chinese at Chopsticks or Italian at Rossi’s. For fine dining, L’Europe with its stained glass art deco interior simply cannot be beat for style or history. The Mezzanine Cafe, with its atrium above, oozes elegance and bustles with livewire atmosphere. Q301 rooms (31 suites 54,100 - 204,200Rbl, 249 classic room 22,100 - 23,600Rbl, 21 belle chambre 39,100 - 42,600Rbl). Extra bed (2,500Rbl). Breakfast (1200/2,000Rbl) and VAT not included. PTJHA6UFLGKDCW hhhhh

Radisson Royal Hotel D-3, Nevsky pr. 49/2, MVladi-mirskaya, tel. (+7) 812 322 50 00, www.radisson.ru/hotel-stpetersburg. In this central 1730s building the well-trained staff take a professional but personal approach and the hotel offers a 100% satisfaction guarantee. The suites have stylish glass panelling, comfortable arm chairs and tall arched windows. There’s the lovely renovated Barbazan Restaurant serving international cuisine and the gorgeous corner lobby bar with it’s Nevsky view. Their fitness centre includes Canadian wood sauna and jacuzzi. There are ample conference and boardroom facilities. Q164 rooms (86 singles 6,608 - 8,968Rbl, 116 doubles 6,608 - 8,968Rbl, 18 suites 13,452 - 18,290Rbl). Extra bed (1,770Rbl) upon request. VAT included. Breakfast (1,300Rbl) not included. PTHARUFGKDW hhhhh

Renaissance St. Petersburg Baltic Hotel C- 2, Ul. Pochtamtskaya 4, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 380 40 00, www.renaissancesaintpetersburg.ru. Smaller than other five-stars, but no less grand. Indeed, the decor is a feast for the eyes. Highlights include the stunning views, the 24hr business centre, the ballroom and the glorious Canvas Restaurant. All rooms are boutique class, the two-level rooms are especially sumptuous. From the sixth-floor cafe terrace, you can see the domes of St. Isaac’s at eye level. The fitness centre is the largest we have seen. Two rooms are available for people with disabilities. No doubt the staff will meet your expectations. Q102 rooms (26 suites 15,000 - 60,000Rbl, 70 single/double 8,500 - 35,000Rbl, 6 bi-level 32,000 - 80,000Rbl). VAT not included. Breakfast (1,250Rbl) not included in deluxe. PTHARUFGBKDW hhhhh

Taleon Imperial Hotel C-2, Nevsky pr. 15, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 324 99 11, www.taleonimperialhotel.com. Possibly the best-looking hotel in St Petersburg, the Taleon Imperial also enjoys a stunning location on the corner of Nevsky pr. and Moika. No expense has been spared in the restoration of this 18th-century mansion, and the results are often jaw-dropping. Luxury and refinement are the watch-words here: the spacious rooms are impeccably decorated and equipped, and the Emperor and Empress suites have to be seen to be believed. On the top floor, there’s a spa with summer terrace and wonderful views over the city. In addition to Griboedov, the hotel’s Taleon restaurant does a reasonably priced Sunday brunch while the Victoria restaurant offers a business lunch. Q89 rooms (49 singles 26,000Rbl, 49 doubles 26,000Rbl, 40 suites 31,200 - 350,000Rbl). Extra bed 2,800Rbl. VAT included. Breakfast (1,500Rbl). PTHAR6UFLGBKDCW hhhhh

In Russian there is no ‘ground floor’ as such. When you enter a building you are on

the first floor.


23HOTELS

W St. Petersburg C-2, Voznesensky pr. 6, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 610 6161, www.wstpetersburg.com. Impressive as the grey granite facade is, guests are in for a sumptuous surprise when they enter into a thoroughly contemporary interior designed down to the last detail. Not merely a lobby, their Living Room encourages mingling around the fireplace to the sounds of the hippest music. Sophisticated dining in miX restaurant and signature cock-tails at the rooftop bar are destinations unto themselves with views of St. Isaac’s Cathedral and the Neva. Bliss Spa pampers with a twist, while the Sweat fitness centre and Wet pool area are gleaming temples for body worship. Meeting spaces contain state-of-the-art technology along with unique sensory devices to keep ideas flowing. Each room wows with their signature W bed, designer decor and ultra-plush amenities. Q137 rooms (127 doubles 35,000 - 45,000Rbl, 10 suites 65,000 - 200,000Rbl). VAT and breakfast (900Rbl) not included. PTHAR6UFGBKDCW hhhhh

4 StarsCourtyard by Marriott St. Petersburg Vasilievsky C-2, VO, 2-ya liniya 61/30 A, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 380 40 11, www.courtyardsaintpetersburg.ru. Situated on the quiet banks of the Malaya Neva this 214 room hotel is aimed firmly at the business traveller. With eight conference rooms, including the massive atrium assembly room, and enormous desks in every room even the most workaholic guest is well-catered for. The rooms and beds themselves are also generously sized and decorated in a simple yet warm muted gold and purple scheme. There’s a light and airy Russian/French restaurant with views to the river, as well as a slinkier lobby bar for later on. Q214 rooms (6 suites 14,000 - 45,000Rbl, 190 deluxe 6,500 - 19,000Rbl, 12 studio 9,000 - 25,000Rbl, 6 junior suite 11,500 - 35,000Rbl). Breakfast (950Rbl), suites breakfast included. VAT not in-cluded. PTHARUFLGKW hhhh

Crowne Plaza St.Petersburg Airport Startovaya ul. 6, bldg. A, MMoskovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 240 42 00, www.crowneplaza.com. Situated next to the international terminal of Pulkovo airport, this is the city’s first airport hotel. The Crowne Plaza building is brand new and looks fantastic. A modern design on the building’s facade includes quirky windows in the bedrooms, designed for watching planes take off, a huge bright lobby and dining areas plus large and flexible conference room space. There’s a spa and fitness area with a Russian banya for post-flight relaxation and the hotel runs a free shuttle bus service between the hotel and the city centre and between the two airport terminals. Through March 30 2012 there’s a special open-ing rate of 2,400Rbl per night. Q294 rooms (245 doubles 3000Rbl, 6 suites 6500RbL, 43 Club Rooms 5000RbL). Extra bed 1,500Rbl. VAT not included, breakfast included. PZbTHA6UFLGKDwW hhhh

Crowne Plaza St. Petersburg - Ligovsky D-3, Ligovsky pr. 61, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 244 00 01, www.crowneplaza.com/ligovsky. The brand new Crowne Plaza hotel positively gleams. Done up in warm beige and brown tones the small lobby contains a round the clock consierge desk, a lounge with art deco accents and the reception desk which is conveniently headed by flat screen televisions listing information for any conference groups in attendance. Each of the standard rooms have everything the modern businessperson or tourist could need or want, including a fully stocked mini bar and above standard bath facilities, while the beds and linens make getting out of bed a real challenge. Amenities include a brightly hued 24 hour fitness centre, underground parking and a Mediterranean restaurant with a view of bustling Ligovsky. Q195 rooms (183 doubles 25,000Rbl, 3 suite 39,000Rbl, 9 deluxe suite 32,500Rbl). VAT and breakfast (990Rbl) not included. PTHAR6UFLGKW hhhh

Holiday Inn Saint-Petersburg - Moskovskye Vorota A-4, Moskovsky pr. 97a, MMoskovskie Vorota, tel. (+7) 812 448 71 71, www.hi-spb.com. This huge newly built hotel has the business traveller firmly in mind. There are three bars and two restaurants, a fitness centre and extensive state-of-the-art conference facilities. The rooms have all the mod-cons including under-floor heating. The executive suites have floor to ceiling windows with panaromic views, especially if you are on the 17th floor. Ideally located for get-ting to the airport (about 25 minutes by bus) and right next to the metro. Q557 rooms (261 singles 3,304 - 4,433Rbl, 260 doubles 3,304 - 4,433Rbl, 36 suites 6,528 - 7,576Rbl, 521 single/double 3,153 - 3,942Rbl). Extra bed 700Rbl. Breakfast (630Rbl) not included. PTHARUFL�GKW hhhh

Novotel St. Petersburg Centre D-3, Ul. Mayak-ovskogo 3A, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 335 11 88, www.novotel.spb.ru. Centrally located just off Nevsky pr, Novotel belongs to the Accor chain of hotels and offers a breath of fresh air in both style and manner to the St. Peters-burg hotel market. The exterior is a modern rendition of the tower of Pisa and the Colosseum and the interior is modern and bright. There is a stylish cafe and restaurant adjacent to the lobby. The rooms are new, modern, and comfortable. The hotel is equipped with a number of state-of-the-art confer-ence rooms and a fitness centre. Q233 rooms (16 suites 10,010 - 24,200Rbl, 214 single/double 7,700 - 10,800Rbl, 12 executive 8,450Rbl). Extra bed 800Rbl. Breakfast (750Rbl) not included. PHA6UFLGKDW hhhh

Find out more about where to stay in St. Petersburg and in many other Russian

towns and cities at our website russia.inyourpocket.com


24 HOTELS

Park Inn by Radisson Nevsky St. Petersburg D-3, Nevsky pr. 89/Ul. Goncharnaya 4A, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 406 73 10, www.parkinn.com/hotel-stpeterburg. Facing onto Nevsky and within a stone’s throw of Moskovsky railway station, you couldn’t dream of a more practical location than this well-designed hotel. Despite its central location the noise of the city is inaudible and rooms are all brightly and comfortably up to the Park Inn standard. The hub of the hotel is the airy Paulaner restaurant, which bustles at all times of day and is smartly spread over two levels with views to Nevsky and plenty of light coming through the delightful atrium. A great choice for those here to enjoy the city’s tourist delights. Q269 rooms (32 singles 4,600 - 5,100Rbl, 181 doubles 5,300 - 5,800Rbl, 2 suites 10,600 - 11,800Rbl). Extra bed 1,500Rbl. VAT and breakfast included. PTJHARUFLGKW hhhh

Park Inn Pribaltiyskaya B-1, Ul. Korablestroiteley 14, MPrimorskaya, tel. (+7) 812 329 26 26, www.parkinn.com/pribaltiyskaya-stpetersburg. St. Petersburg’s largest hotel boasts 1,200 rooms in one of the most scenic loca-tions, on the Gulf of Finland, on Primorskaya. Focusing on all-round comfort for guests, the hotel’s imposing exterior still has the Soviet look but the outlook of the new Park Inn management is ultramodern. Rooms are comfortable and have been fully refurbished in the company’s trademark pri-mary colours scheme. The hotel’s extensive facilities include various restaurants (including the RBG Grill), by far the most enormous conference facilities in the city, gym, Roman-style spa and the Indoor Aquapark with water slides and splash pools. Q1200 rooms (60 suites 8,500 - 23,000Rbl, 1140 singles/doubles 4,800 - 11,400Rbl). Extra bed 1,500Rbl. PTHARUFLGKDCW hhhh

Radisson Sonya Hotel. St Petersburg D-2, Liteiny pr. 5/19, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 406 00 00, www.radisson.com. The Radisson Sonya hotel in Russia looks like something from another planet compared to the other standard upmarket business class hotels in the city. It positively screams fashion and thoughtfulness. Not one detail is out of place, from the state-of-the-art bathrooms to the groovy lighting and the wild Swedish designer wallpaper; you half expect the cast of Sex and the City to turn up at any moment. Themed around Dostoevsky’s novel Crime and Punishment, subtle references to the book are everywhere from the carpet and furniture to the Russian restaurant. The huge glass covered courtyard with glass fronted kitchen is simply stunning. Q173 rooms (2 suites 15,229 - 16,021Rbl, 130 Standard Single/Double 6,500Rbl, 41 Business Single/Double 9,400 - 10,100Rbl). Extra bed 2,200Rbl. PTHA6UFGKDCW hhhh

Vedensky Hotel D-1, Bolshoy pr. 37 (Petrograd Side), MPetrogradskaya, tel. (+7) 812 332 42 22, www.alrosa-hotels.ru/hotels/piter/. The newest hotel in Russia for this chain of homegrown upscale hotels, brings some much needed 4 star options to the Petrograd island. Gleaming marble, exposed brick and all white furnishings are the chosen colour scheme for the shiny new interiors of this careful reconstruction of a historic high-ceilinged building. Extensive conference and function space make it an attrac-tive event venue and dining facilities, which include a classy Mediterranean restaurant, are yet more bonuses. Q158 rooms (132 doubles 6170 - 11050Rbl, 2 suites 16550 - 21450Rbl, 4 Superior 6750 - 11650Rbl, 14 Superior Comfort 7820 - 13050Rbl, 3 Deluxe 9750 - 14650Rbl, 3 Luxe 11450 - 16350Rbl). PTHAR6UFLGKDW

3 Stars3mostA Nab. reky Moiky 3A, MKan. Griboedova, tel. (+7) 812 332 34 70, www.3mosta.com. Located in a his-toric building on the quiet moika canal (between the Church on the Spilled Blood and the Hermitage), this colourful boutique hotel is well-positioned for strolling along the backstreets of one of the nicest parts of the city centre. The different floors are themed by the seasons and are all bright and breezy with fresh flowers on the table. The ‘superior view’ rooms are exactly as they say - complimented by wonderful city views, although nothing can compare to the bird’s eye views found in the hotel’s roof terrace restaurant. Q24 rooms (1 singles 2500Rbl, 10 doubles 4000Rbl, 9 Comfort 5000 - 6000Rbl, 3 Room with a view 6500 - 7500Rbl). Breakfast (300Rbl). VAT included. PZbTJARULGBKW hhh

Cronwell Inn Stremyannaya D-3, Ul. Stremyannaya 18, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 406 04 50, www.stremyannaya-hotel.com. Just behind Nevsky Prospect in historic Stremyannaya street, Cronwell Inn Hotel prides itself in the traditional hotel experience. There are ‘5 o’clock tea’ club functions and a Stremyannaya mini museum complete with costumes. Superior rooms are spacious, clean, soft and adequately furnished including personal safes and flat screen televisions. Rooms differ only in size and luckily the amusing art over the headboards appears as standard throughout. Dining-room-come-cafe is open from 07:00 until 23:00. Q49 rooms (21 doubles 3,400 - 4,400Rbl, 18 Comfort 3,900 - 4,900Rbl, 10 Superior 4,400 - 5,600Rbl). Extra bed 1,300Rbl. PJHARFGBKW hhh

IBIS St. Petersburg Centre D-3, Ligovsky pr. 54, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 622 01 00, www.ibishotel.com/6157. Smart and clean with the appearance of an upmarket hotel, the new Ibis is marketed for those in search of reasonably priced accommodation, leisure travellers and business people. With a central location, brand spanking new decor, international standard service levels and a restaurant downstairs, this is a great option at very reasonable rates. Q221 rooms (3 suites 6,500 - 10,500Rbl, 218 single/double 3,500 - 5,900Rbl). Extra bed 1,800Rbl only for suites. Break-fast not included (480 Rbl). PHAULGKW hhh

Russia In Your Pocket has been teamed up wi th Europe’s leading online hotel agency Booking.com to offer hotel booking direct from our website. Over 1500 hotels in Russia are already part of Booking.com’s reservation agency and that’s up from 200 only a year and a half ago, so business is clearly booming. All you need to do is read through our reviews online and if you like the look of a place click on the link and you’ll be directed straight to the venue’s booking page. Then you can browse through any special deals they’ve put on offer without even picking up the phone. Simple as that! Head to our site russia.inyourpocket.com to try it out for yourself.

Booking.com


25HOTELS

Red Stars Hotel B-2, Nab. reky Pryazhki, MSa-dovaya, tel. (+7) 812 640 40 00, www.red-stars-hotel.ru. A fantastically contemporary addition to the market, Red Stars has done up their hotel with signature red dominating the decor from doors to bathroom tiles, while the corridors and lobby walls are adorned with graffiti courtesy of local artists. At very reasonable rates, within 15 minutes walk to the Mariinsky theatre or 15 minutes by transport to Nevsky pr., this makes an ideal option for the independent traveler, while their modest business centre will accommodate gatherings of up to 15 people. Friendly concierge service, a hot breakfast buffet and a far east themed lobby bar, along with the overall hip vibe completes the package. Q54 rooms (22 Com-fort 3400 - 4000Rbl, 21 Comfort Plus 3800 - 4400Rbl, 5 Deluxe 4600 - 5200Rbl, 6 Luxe 5600 - 6200Rbl).PTHARLKW hhh

Mini-hotelsApartment 10 Grazhdanskaya ul. 9, ap.10, MSen-naya pl., tel. (+7) 812 912 82 43, www.apartment10.spb.ru. Large apartment in a central location that’s ideal for a group of friends or a family who would prefer a large living space and the freedom to cook their own meals as opposed to the luxuries of staying in a hotel. The two bedrooms are complimented by two huge sofas which can be made into sofa beds and the living space comes with large dining table, wifi, flat screen TV and DVD player. If you enjoy cooking, there’s a great market with fresh produce nearby. Q (apartments 3500 - 4500Rbl). VAT included, breakfast not included. ALGW

Herzen House C-2, Ul. Bolshaya Morskaya 25, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 315 55 50, www.herzen-hotel.com. Central and clean, Herzen House is at the top of four floors on the lovely Bolshaya Morskaya ul. and has been completely renovated. Simple and convenient, with 20 rooms across one floor, the twin superior is spacious with modern upholstery and a choice of views onto the courtyard or street. There are tiled terracotta floors and a good buffet area to feast on a hot breakfast or in which to enjoy an afternoon tea around the samovar with Russian musical accompaniment. Free Wi-fi and 24hr internet access in the reception, DVDs and kids toys can be borrowed from reception. Q21 rooms (20 singles 3,300 - 6,000Rbl, 20 doubles 3,700 - 6,600Rbl, 1 suites 4,600 - 8,000Rbl). Extra bed 1,200Rbl. PTARLGW hhh

Nevsky Inn C-2, Kirpichny per. 2, apt.19, code 19B, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 315 88 36, www.nevskyinn.com. This is a clean and pretty hotel with an ideal location. Considering its standards, it is also great value for money. Occupying one floor of a mid-19th-century building, there is a large, modern café, open 24hrs with satellite tv, a long couch, coffee tables, free tea and coffee and open kitchen facilities. Turn left onto Bolshaya Morskaya, then take your first right - the door is no. 2, next to an arch. Dial code 19B and go to the fourth floor. Q7 rooms (7 singles 2,500Rbl, 7 doubles 3,500Rbl). Extra bed 900Rbl. PARLGXW hhh

Palantin A-2, Rizhsky pr. 4-6, MBaltiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 607 77 63, www.palantinhotel.ru. Situated in a quiet courtyard not far from the Fontanka canal, this calm mini-hotel provides rest and relaxation in modern rooms on thick mattresses with warm magnolia and honey coloured trimmings. Most rooms have cute little balconies too. The standard rooms come with two single beds, the superior suite with a double bed and kitchenette and the junior suites even have Jacuzzis. As an extra the hotel also run Russian doll painting classes. To enter go through to the backyard, ring the bell and enter through the gate. Q20 rooms (20 single/double 3,000 - 4,000Rbl). Extra bed 900Rbl. PTHARLGBKW hhh

HostelsCubahostel C-2, Ul. Kazanskaya 5, 3rd f loor, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 921 71 15, www.cuba-hostel.ru. With an almost unbeatable location just behind Kazan Cathedral, Cubahostel is an ideal budget option. The fourteen rooms each sleep from two to ten people. Upstairs there’s a recently upgraded communal kitchen, though guests also get special offers including a welcome drink at Atelierbar a few minutes’ walk away. The staff organise events including regular banya trips, and can also hook guests up with walking and cycling tours. Enter to the right of the old-fashioned red British phone box, press 41 at the downstairs intercom. Linen included. Q15 rooms (dorm beds 490 - 800Rbl). JRLNGW

St. Petersburg International Hostel E-3, Ul. 3-ya Sovetskaya 28, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 329 80 18, www.ryh.ru. Russia’s first international hostel is in a 19th-century building in an old industrial area in the very center of the city not far from metro station “Pl. Vosstaniya”. It’s basic, but cheap and has doubles and single-sex dorms for between three and five people. There is no curfew, but you will have to let the staff know ahead of time if you plan to come back after 01:00. Q (30 Dorm beds 500 - 750Rbl). Visa support 750 Rbl., registration included. ANG


26 RESTAURANTSSt. Petersburg is brimming with colourful, innovative and fun restaurants serving everything from traditional Russian to nouvelle cuisine. Tip for good service only - 10% is considered fair. Menus in English available unless otherwise stated. Also remember to check your bill to see if they already included service.

Our price guide is based on the average price of a main course:€ - 0 - 400Rbl €€ 400 - 800Rbl€€€ 800 - 1,200Rbl €€€€ 1,200Rbl plus

RussianChekhov D-1, Ul. Petropavlovskaya 4, MPetrograd-skaya, tel. (+7) 812 234 45 11. This charming dining venue allows you to step into a Russian country house at the beginning of the nineteenth century, just as if you were entering into the world of author Anton Chekhov. Recreat-ing the traditional delicacies from recipes of that time, you can enjoy a sumptutous meal as a piano player serenades the room. The waitresses rustle past in their long gowns serving up a range of carefully presented, wholly satisfy-ing dishes. Popular with Russians and foreigners alike, reservations are recommended. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. €€. PTAEXS

Gogol C-2, Ul. Malaya Morskaya 8, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 312 60 97. It is immediately apparent in every thoughtful detail of the decor and menu that this is a labour of love. Love for the history of the city, its literary culture and fine gastronomic traditions. The literary references are subtlely done, with Gogol’s famous overcoat hanging in the entryway, a vase of quills in place of flowers in one room and a menu designed and illustrated to read like a novel. Each chapter is devoted to a different course and every item is a careful selection, elegantly executed to reflect the delicate aristocratic tastes of 19th century Russia. We can’t point out a single not-to-be-missed item as everything we sampled was a delight to the palate and the much-lauded Russian soul. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. €€. PAS

Mari Vanna D-1, Ul. Lenina 18, MPetrogradskaya, tel. (+7) 812 230 53 59, www.marivanna.ru. Bookings for this popular restaurant are essential as the idea is that you are eating as if at a friend’s house - and what kind of guest would turn up unexpected? With a reservation safely made the door to the flat will be unlocked for you and you’ll be invited in to dine on traditional Russian home food such as borshch, pelmeni and pirogi in a cute little place designed to look like an old (but unbroken) Russian flat. The food itself is not mind-blowing, just plain good and filling, but the service and homely atmosphere, complete with toys and crayons for the kids, make this a thoroughly enjoyable experience. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. €€. PAUVSW

Mechta Molokhovets (Molokhovets’s Dream) E-3, Ul. Radisheva 10, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 579 22 47, www.molokhovets.ru. This homely little place reveals the tastes and style of St. Petersburg as it was back in the 19th Century when Elena Molokhovets wrote her famous cookbook detailing Russian cuisine in its finest forms. All the dishes here are made with the freshest ingredients - don’t miss their fish dishes, which are particularly outstanding - we’ve never eaten better sturgeon than the one they serve here and the live music and candlelight only heighten the experience. They also cater well to vegetarians (Paul Mc-Cartney is a fan) and have an excellent wine cellar. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. €€€€. PAEGS

P Air conditioning A Credit cards acceptedE Live music S Take awayT Child friendly U Facilities for the disabledG Non-smoking areas L Guarded parkingX Smoking place M Nearest stationV Home delivery I Fire placeB Outside seating W Wi-Fi connection

Symbol Key

Bread Хлеб KhlebNuts Орехи OrekhiChicken Курица KuritsaFish Рыба RybaMeat Мясо MyasoPork Свинина SvininaRussian cuisine Русская кухня Russkaya

kukhnyaDumplings Пельмени PelmeniCaviar Икра IkraMeat patties Котлеты KotletyPickled herring Селедка SelyodkaPancakes Блины BlinyCaucasian Cuisine

Кавказская кухня

Kavkaskaya kukhnya

Cheese bread Хачапури KhachapuriShish kebab Шашлык ShashlykBean stew Лобио LobioChicken in cream Сациви Satsivi

Menu Decoder


27RESTAURANTS


Na Zdorovie! D-1, Bolshoy pr. 13/4, Petrograd Side, MSportivnaya, tel. (+7) 812 232 40 39, old.concord-catering.ru/restaurants/na-zdorovie/. This cheerful, cosy restaurant called Na Zdorovie (Russian for ‘to your health!’) serves excellent Russian and Soviet cuisine - something you are not supposed to miss when visiting St. Petersburg. It is a good restaurant for tourists looking for a taste of typical Russian food. Take our word for it, everything we tried here tasted really fresh - as if a Russian babushka (grandmother) prepared it herself. Don’t forget to try the typi-cal Russian drinks kvas and mors. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. €€. PTAEBXS

NEP D-2, Nab. reky Moiky 37, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 312 37 22, www.neprestoran.ru. NEP is a delight-ful cabaret den which pays glorious homage to the sultry swinging 1920s. The atmosphere is cosy and warm, softly lit with candles so you can settle back, order your meal and be enthralled by the musicians with their charming, personali ty packed star singer. They offer an array of delicious fish and meat dishes, all exquisitely presented and served. If you’re sitting close to the performers, it is likely you’ll find yourself part of the night’s entertain-ment. Q Open 12:00 - 01:00, Mon, Tue 12:00 - 23:30 €€. PAEBSW

Russian Kitch C-2, VO, Universitetskaya nab. 25, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 325 11 22, old.concord-catering.ru/restaurants/russian-kitch/. Is that Brezhnev and Castro we see kissing on the ceiling? Bear rugs, sumptuous cushions, multi-coloured walls, leopard print sofas, embellished pillars - could it get more ki tsch than this? This restaurant is ironic on a grand scale in a grand location, overlooking the river Neva, with six dining halls, a conservatory and a dance floor. I f i t’s vodka and caviar you’re after, they have both black and red caviar with blini and many types of vodka - and the general cuisine is great. The waiter was so quick we could hardly finish our dishes! QOpen 12:00 - 02:00. €€. PALEXS

Tsar D-2/3, Ul. Sadovaya 12, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 930 04 44, www.tsar-project.ru. Tsar, as its name suggests, sets out to make its guests feel like real Russian royalty. Drinks are served in fine crystal glasses, old portraits of noblemen cover the walls and even the toilets are encased inside giant leather-lined thrones. The Russian cuisine on offer is first rate - no doubt Nicholas II himself would have loved the Pozharskaya cutlet a la Pushkin. The staff, food and atmosphere here is a real lesson in imperial elegance. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00. €€€. PTAILVEXW

AsianChopsticks D-2,(Grand Hotel Europe) Ul. Mikhailovs-kaya 1/7, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 329 66 38, w w w.grandhoteleurope.com. The atmosphere is chic, the service is exemplary and the interior divine. The food is exquisi tel y prepared authentic Chinese but i t is the atmosphere and service which is the real drawcard. You will be so well looked after, you may feel that a wave of relaxation wash over you like a breeze from the South China Sea. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. €€€. PTALXSW

Dve Palochki C-2, Nevsky pr. 22, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 335 02 22, www.dvepalochki.ru. This is a chain of superior Japanese restaurants in several locations around the city. All their restaurants are more than comfort-able, with traditional sushi rolls, soups and teas. We love the atlantic rolls (salmon, philadelphia and eel) and they also do a wonderful range of baked rolls - we recommend the crab rolls with hot shitake mushroom sauce. The toliets are still a bit of a mystery? Two toilets in one cubicle - what’s that about? Has 18 more locations in the city including ul. Ital-ianskaya 6 (metro Gostiny Dvor). QOpen 11:00 - 06:00. €.PABSW

King Pong C- 2, Bolshaya Morskaya 16, MAdmi-ralteyskaya, tel. (+7) 812 315 82 56, www.kingpong.ru. The lime green walls, funky paintings and high ceilings make for a cooly relaxed Asian alternative to all the sushi bars around town. The menu itself is mainly Thai-style dishes with scattered bits of Chinese, Indian and Japa-nese offerings. In general, we recommend filling up on an assortment of the yummy starters, particularly the dim sum and chicken satay, as while elegantly prepared with fresh ingredients, the mains are surprisingly lackluster in the absence of adequate spice. QOpen 10:00 - 01:00. €.PTAEGBSW

Mops D-3, Ul. Rubinshteina 12, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 572 38 34, www.mopscafe.ru. The first Thai restaurant in St Petersburg and the interior at least is truly exquisite. The Thai décor offers a combination of hectic and clean lines; tigers hold light fittings in their mouths; giant roses adorn the ceiling and colorful miniature elephants stand in neat rows. The menu focuses on dumplings, sal-ads, spring rolls and soups to start and noodles and rice, wok and curry for mains. Unfortunately, portions are small, service is variable and they’ve adjusted the spice to Rus-sian tastes so best to ask for extra heat (ochin ostry). Q Open 13:00 - 24:00. Fri, Sat 13:00 - 01:00. Closed Mon €€€. PABS

Mybox Zagorodny pr. 10, MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 812 444 15 15, www.mybox.mx. Mainly promoting their delivery service (you might have seen the dancing, carton-headed guy with the menus attached to his body suit in front of Dve Palochki on Nevsky), the wok, soup and sushi joint Mybox cooks up everything fresh whether you’re at home in the centre or passing by their kitchen and cafe. Their spicy rolls are actually spicy, the soups come in two sizes - massive or reasonable - and are chock full of crunchy soybeans, paper-thin meat slices and glass noodles. In fact, everything here is as it should be - cheap, tasty and prepared in an instant. QOpen 11:40 - 23:00. €. AVGSW


28 RESTAURANTS

Tan Zhen C-3, Ul. Gorokhovaya 48, MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 325 61 09. This outlet of the authentically Chinese Tan Zhen chain boasts a downmarket charm and those recognizable aromas that we all readily identify with. The interior is classic, instant Chinese restaurant fare, with a bamboo mural, lacquer paneling and the like. You can ignore the interior, though, and focus on the food, which is as reas-suringly satisfying, tasty and freshly prepared as in the other Tan Zhens across the city. Our only complaint is the variable spice levels, sometimes when they say hot they mean it and other times not at all. Thankfully they’ll bring you chili oil to supplement if you ask. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. €. PAS

Tandoor C-2, Admiralteisky pr., 10, MAdmiralteyskaya, tel. (+7) 812 312 38 86, www.tandoor-spb.ru. Situated mere steps from St. Isaac’s cathedral, Tandoor is about as far away from bland Russian food as you can get. For 15 years now they’ve been serving up real, authentic Indian fare and have won numerous ‘best restaurant’ prizes for their efforts too. They have all the usual favourites so you can try a couple and share amongst your buddies, whilst mopping up every last dollop of sauce with the thick naan bread. With two rooms, this place is ideal for a large group, much like when you see the city’s Indian community trooping in for their banquets. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. €€. PTABXSW

Tandoori Nights C-2, Voznesensky pr. 4, MAdmi-ralteyskaya, tel. (+7) 812 312 87 72. There are only a few Indian restaurants in the whole city and this one offers more than just curry - for Indian style fine-dining, this is a great place to go. The menu is original and mouth-watering, especially the clay-oven Tandoori-specialities. When cooked here, the meat acquires a delicious flavour and specific tenderness. The soft naan breads are also highly recom-mended - especially the peshwari naan. There’s plenty of options for vegetarians too and every guest with an In Your Pocket guide gets a 10% discount on the bill. QOpen 12:00 - 00:00. €. PASW

YamiYami Pr. Moskovsky 7, MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 958 10 12, www.yami-yami.ru. Fast, freshly made wok dishes to order with your choice of sauces, meats and vegetables, rice or noodles, plus token sushi rolls, salads and desserts. The interior is an eye-opening shade of lime green with eco-hippie catch phrases extolling the virtues of organic, bio and healthy living painted on the walls. We have our doubts about how organic anything actually is and when the grill gets to going the air is more greasy than envigorat-ing. The fully-stocked bar also seems a little at odds, but it’s cheap, perfectly edible and they even do delivery. Q Open 11:00 - 23:00 € PTSW.

Beer RestaurantsBierstube B-2, (Courtyard by Marriott St. Petersburg Center West Pushkin Hotel) Nab. kan. Griboedova 166 (entrance via Kanonerskaya ul. 33), MSennaya Pl., tel. (+7) 812 610 50 00, www.bier-stube.ru. With their own brewery the Marriott’s Bierstube restaurant is a good place to start if you are looking for some homebrewed hoppy stuff. Choose from a seat in the bright glass covered courtyard balcony or tuck yourselves in inside the wood and stucco countryside house themed centre of the restaurant. Either way be sure to load up on beer snacks like calmari and fried cheese sticks before the main events, Bavarian and Czech cuisine inspired meaty heavyweights, arrive. The fact that it is a good walk down the canal from the metro station means you have the chance to walk of all the calories after. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00. €€, business lunch 12:00-15:00 (190-350Rbl). PTAULESW

Baltiisky Khleb (Baltic Bread) D-3, Vladimirsky pr. 19, MDostoevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 331 32 19, www.baltic-bread.ru. The equipment is British and the range of delicious crusty nut and seed topped loaves is large. There’s also a great range of fresh on-site sandwiches available making this a great lunch option. Just halt the seller before they microvave your salad sandwich - lettuce should not be microwaved! This venue has a cafe section which extends through into the atrium of the Vladimirsky Passazh shopping centre. You can also order bread to be delivered to your house through their website. Also at PS, Bolshoy pr. 80, tel. (+7) 812 498 04 40; Grechesky pr. 25, tel. (+7) 812 275 64 40. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. €. PALVGS

Denisov & Nikolaev С-2, Nab. kan. Griboedova 77, MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 571 94 95, www.denisovinikolaev.ru. Denisov and Nikolaev have been selling confectionaries made from their own famous recipes at this eye-catching location on the Griboedov canal for more than 10 years. This is the kind of place where perfection and attention to detail are the law and the highest love and care is put into every product - whether it’s a simple tiramisu or a huge extravagant wedding cake. As well as the sweet stuff (we particu-larly recommend the cheesecakes) they also have a menu of homemade Russian savoury favourites - the soups are especially good. QOpen 09:30 - 23:00. €. PbJAW

Garcon D-3, Nevsky pr. 103, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 717 07 28, www.garcon.ru. Bakery Heaven. A refuge for all who love the smell of freshly baked loaves, scrumptious biscuits and a good cof-fee to go with it. You won’t find the cream drenched creations so common in other bakeries here; this is a real French style bakery with all the usual treats. We heard that the five star hotels in the city order from Garcon, and it’s not hard to understand why. Go on, have another almond croissant… Also at Ul. Razyezzhaya 41. and Kanal Griboedeva 19. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00. €. N

Bakeries


29RESTAURANTS

Brasserie de Metropole D-3, Ul. Sadovaya 22/2, MGostiny Dvor, tel. (+7) 812 571 88 88/(+7) 921 994 76 06, www.demetropole.ru. A gorgeous Belgium style pub overlooking the hustle and bustle of Gostiny Dvor and Sadovaya ulitsa. The brews are all quality, fresh from the fermentation tanks and the tastes range from a light kreik, apple-infused lambic and darker trappist style ales. Food is no less superior with hearty flavours like truffle and stout sauces all in surroundings accented with reproductions of the Flemish masters and delicate ironwork that conjures up Wallonia. For a more intimate experience, the restaurant is a hall of art deco delight, featuring a massive stained glass skylight. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00. €€. PTJAIE

Karl & Friedrich C-1, Yuzhnaya dor. 15, MKrestovsky ostrov, tel. (+7) 812 320 79 78, fax 320 79 19, www.k-f.ru. Escape from the toxic city air to this great restaurant on Krestovsky island, which serves up wonderful fresh fish and freshly brewed beer. The portions are large and great value for money. There are three varieties of Karl & Friedrich beer brewed on-site. Q Sun - Thu 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 until last guest. €€€. PTAULEGXSW

Münhell C-2, Engelsa pr. 154, tel. (+7) 812 740 34 56, www.munhell.ru. The brocade bench fabrics and sheer plum curtains add a feminine touch that’s a bit out of sync with the German beer hall menu and overall vibe. Likewise service occasionally lapses from the characteristic teuteonic efficiency and yet this is still a great place to down a superior lager, or better yet, their rich porter. Our waitress was bubbling over with smiles, which was almost too conducive to having those extra two when we swore we’d come for one. The menu is heavy on fried snacks but also includes bratwurst and schnitzel and it’s definitely worth mentioning that the cocktail offerings are diverse, professionally poured and very, very tempting. QOpen 12:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 12.00 - 06.00. 12.00-03.00 €€. PEXS

Paulaner D-3, (Park Inn Nevsky hotel) Nevsky pr. 89/ ul. Goncharnaya 4A, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 406 73 13, www.paulaner-brauhaus.com. Sit down round the shiny brass brew-kettle and enjoy your fresh beer at the Paulaner restaurant and microbrewery. With an light filled atrium and big windows facing on to Nevsky the whole place, which spreads over many levels and around many corners, has a very relaxed light feel to it. The dark and light homebrewed beers taste lovely. Paulaner also has great Bavarian and Austrian food and the portions are massive! You can order a huge platter to share between you and an army of friends or perhaps you want to hack into an enormous schnitzel or curry wurst by yourself? Just don’t look at the helpfully provided calorie count. Kids are well catered for with their own special menu. Also at Park Inn Pulkovskaya at pl. Pobedy 1 (metro Moskovskaya). QOpen 12:00 - 01:00. €€. PTAULEW

Caucasian and Central AsianBaklazhan D-3, (Galleria Shopping Centre) Ligovsky pr. 30, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. +7 (812) 677 73 72, gin-zaproject.ru/SPB/Restaurants/Baklajan/. The open kitchen concept combined with beige rusticism seems to be mode du jour for Ginza Project. The twist at Baklazhan (Aubergine) are the touches of deep purple to the decor, wine bottles lining the walls and a market stall of sorts selling fruits and nuts near the entrance. The food itself is standard Georgian fare with a few more innovative dishes. The latter disappoints, with homemade noodles being gloopy and the sauces uninspired. Stick with baked goods, such as their stuffed samsas, khachapuri and the like, though and you’ll be treated to piping hot goodness that’ll stick to your bones. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. €. PAS

Baku E-3, Ul. Sadovaya 12/23, MGostiny Dvor, tel. (+7) 812 941 37 56/(+7) 812 910 76 35, fax 571 91 23, baku-spb.ru, www.baku-spb.ru. Eating here is something akin to dining in a palace. The high ceilings and walls are covered with gorgeous, intricate patterns in bright colours, interspersed with mirrors. Food is classic Azerbai-jani so you may not know exactly what anything is on the menu without asking but it is bound to be satisfying. The pilaf dishes are a must, with lightly seasoned basmati rice, tender portions of meat, nuts, stewed fruits and vegetables. They also have baked vegetable stews, soups and tea is served in tiny traditional glasses. Friday and Saturday nights feature music and dance acts and even occasional fire-eating by the belly dancers. QOpen 12:00 - 00:00. €€€. PTALEGXSW

Gastronomic Bar Griboedov C-2,(Taleon Imperial Hotel) Nab. reky Moiky 14, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 611 04 81, www.taleonimperialhotel.com. One of the first things that strikes you about this Georgian restaurant is how well explained the menu is - if you know little about Georgian food, you will have no trouble here as all the dishes are de-scribed right down to the last sprig of tarragon. Their shashlik is grilled over real hot coals, while the pastries come from a real stone oven making them both obvious choices. Some of the other dishes though such as the corn cereal patties are noticeably dull in comparison. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. €€. PALSW

Khachapurnaya С-4, Ligovsky pr. 154, MLigovsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 766 58 29. The delights of this Geor-gian style eatery are numerous. Fresh food, inexpensive and without pretension accompanied by genuinely friendly service makes this place a great dining option. Enjoy the traditional cheese bread khachapuri (where this type of restaurant takes its name), feast on the delicious mari-nated chicken shashlyk or enjoy a tasty spiced soup. This chain has other locations including Ligovsky pr. 111 and Rubinsteyna 29. No English menu. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. €. PNXS

Khochu Kharcho C-2, Sadovaya ul. 39/41, MSa-dovaya, tel. (+7) 812 310 32 36, www.ginzaproject.ru. “Khachu Kharcho!” means “I want Kharcho”! - kharcho being a traditional Georgian stew containing mutton/lamb, vegetables, rice and a highly spiced bouillon. Here they serve three di fferent types of the dish and i t is definitely worth trying as a warm and filling main course.This is not just a Georgian restaurant, i t`s a Megrelian restaurant and there is a big difference. Megrelia is a historic province in the western part of Georgia where walnuts feature prominently in the cooking and they like their food spicy. Other must-try-dishes include the rich and cheesy Megrelian khachapuri or the fragrant chakhokhbili (spicy chicken stew). Q Open 24hrs. €€. PTAVEW


30 RESTAURANTS

EuropeanCafe Jam E-3, Ul. Ryleeva 12, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 719 69 33, www.cafejam.spb.ru. Owner Berit offers a fresh and healthy blend of Russian and Scandinavian cuisine. She does her utmost to serve you good food for a good price and this place is imbued with her inimitable down-to-earth sense of humour. It has a funky, stylish interior; with seasonal art exhibitions and live music on Fridays. An ideal place for intimate talks or to drop by for a coffee, a quick filling business lunch or something heartier. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. €€. PTAS

Charlotte Cafe C-2, Ul. Kazanskaya 2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571 82 87, www.ginzaproject.ru. This excel-lent laidback café/restaurant/delicatessen always seems to be full. If you can’t get a seat on the wonderful wide covered terrace, don’t worry, the interior is just as pleasant although when you’re inside you do miss out on a lot of great people watching. On the food side they do European classics like Caesar salad and lasagne well and their luxurious sandwiches come highly recommended - no more bread and butter with a slice of salami on top - say hello to the wrap revolution! QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. €€. PANBXSW

Ferma E-2, Finlyandsky pr. 1, lit. A, MPl. Lenina, tel. (+7) 812 542 88 66, www.ferma-restaurant.ru. The farm-house theme here extends from having a barn sized interior with plants, ceramic cows and chickens cluttering all available shelving space and a menu crammed full of fresh leafy salads, hearty soups and large excellent value pizzas made in a real stone oven. Their desserts menu is particularly interesting with a pizza topped with chocolate, fruits and cream, taking its place next to the usual tiramisu and ice-cream. The dishes are well executed, the fish is particularly fresh and service is a lot more sophisticated than your average farm lad would expect. Q Open 11:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 01:00. €€. PTAILEBSW

Gimnazya C-2, Konnogvardeisky bul. 21, MAdmiraltey-skaya, tel. (+7) 812 933 07 58, www.gimnazya.ru. Be-fore the Bolshevik revolution there was a very well to do girls gymnasium school here (hence the name) and before that the building was part of a huge luxurious palace (hence the stun-ning interiors). Gimnazya still pays homage to its aristocratic history. Its many impressive halls are resplendent and feature restored interiors, plush furniture and sumptuous curtains draped across the 6 metre high walls. Modern hints are added to give things an up-to-date twist with contemporary murano glass chandeliers, jazzy-funk live music, a cocktail bar and a menu that boasts Russian and European classic dishes as well as Asian fusion and Japanese cuisine. Q Open 12:00 until the last guest. €€. PTJAEXW

Gosti C-2, Ul. Malaya Morskaya 13, MAdmiralteyskaya, tel. (+7) 812 312 58 20, www.gdegosti.ru. Dining in this continental cafe is a bit like going to your provincial granny’s cottage. If your granny has as much taste as she does knick-knacks. Each of the rooms has plenty of florals, books and decorative odds and ends on the wall, but the effect is homey rather than cluttered. Staff are delightfully friendly and the menu boasts hearty, flavoursome risottos, pastas and dishes fresh off the grill or from the oven. Portion sizes allude again to the generousity of granny and can easily be divided into two meals. QOpen 12:30 - 23:00. €€. PAEGSW

Caviar Bar and Restaurant D-2, (Grand Hotel Europe) Ul. Mikhailovskaya 1/7, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 329 66 51, www.grandhoteleurope.com. Cool marble envelops the intimate dining space atop the first tier of the Grand Hotel Europe’s elegant staircase, but the impeccable service is as warm as the flickering candles. While much fine dining in the city is devoted to the French arts, Caviar Bar and Restaurant subtly and unquestioning proves that the culinary arts also have a home in Russia. Not surprisingly, caviar makes many an appearance on the menu, but never one that is out of place. The Kamchatka crab in champagne sauce, ac-companied by the delicate black beluga is a dish to die for, but that description pretty much covers everything on the menu, whether you’re venturing into the seafood dishes, the game or touring your way around heavenly hors d’oeuvres while sampling the little waters recom-mended by the city’s only vodka sommelier. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. €€€€. PALEW

Fish House C-2, Grivtsova per. 4, MSadovaya, tel. 448 22 77, www.fish-spb.ru. Fish, fish, more fish and seafood - this is one for the piscivores, although with a good beef stroganoff on the menu carnivores will be happy too. This very plain looking fish house specialises in American style fish grills - the portions are huge as well as the massive ceramics they arrive on. We enjoyed the trout with spinach, although it took a long time to grill it to perfection. They also do some nice Russian pickled fish with delicious black bread. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. €€. PTALEXSW

Langust Bolshoy pr. 84 (Petrograd Side), MPetro-gradskaya, tel. (+7) 812 449 56 00. It is immediately apparent upon entering that they take their seafood here very seriously indeed. After passing security on the first floor, you leave the lift to be greeting by a massive con-cierge desk, a table offering glossy catalouges describing their chef, ingredients and gastronomic philosophy and bubbling tanks of your soon to be appetizers. Once seated on either of their two floors and atop an overstuffed floral armchair, you might find you’re completely alone to con-template their menu which is a careful selection of live or fresh from the sea fish, lobster and shellfish, plus imported meats such as French duck and Brazilian beef. Vegetarians don’t have to fret with their appetizing sides, pastas and risottos also being beautifully and deliciously prepared. Be aware prices are per 100 grams of uncooked seafood. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00. €€. PAEBSW

Matrosskaya Tishina Ul. Marata 54, MLigovsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 764 44 13, www.matrosskaya-tishi-na.restoran.ru. Established in 1999 by a member of the international gastronomic society Chaine des Rotisseurs, Sailor’s Silence is one of the best restaurants in the city, which is slightly at odds with the at times kitschy decor (lots and lots of nautical knick knacks and even a singing plastic fish) and soundtrack (classic French crooners overlaid with the sound of crashing surf and seagulls). All of which quickly fades away when you are served anything from their menu, as everything is almost indecently scrumptious. Conceived in the finest culinary traditions are recipes inspired by regional delicacies all over France and the results are awe-inspiring. The wine list is equally immaculate as is the service. An absolute must for fruits de mer lovers. No English menu. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. €€€.

Fruits der mer

Dva piva = Two beers


31RESTAURANTS

Greek Taverne Oliva C-2, Ul. Bolshaya Morskaya 31, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 314 65 63, www.tavernaoliva.ru. Aiming to bring a small piece of sunny Greece to the heart of St. Petersburg, this laid-back eatery certainly feels like a mini getaway. The bright blues in the elaborate interior immediately sweep you away, and the sociable staff and flavorsome food make for an overall great experience. It is ideal for groups, especially families, and the addition of a children’s room will surely be appreciated by many (except perhaps those whose table is right next to it). An extensive menu, complete with pictures, caters to all as there are various options for vegetarians, large groups and even (gasp) children. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. €€. PTAEBS

Metamorfos E-2, (Radisson Sonya Hotel) Liteiny pr. 5/19, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 406 00 06, www.radissonblu.com. This stylish Russian restaurant ticks all the boxes for those who are looking to sample real Russian food with a modern twist. The interior was designed by the wildest imaginations of famous contemporary Swedish designers and the menu mixes up traditional Russian favou-rites with flair. It’s possible to spend time just philosophising over the menu itself, which has been designed to reflect a Dostoevskian novel. It’s Russian, but not as you would usually know it. Q Open 12:00 - 24:00. Bar open 09:00 - 01:00. €€. PTAUSW

miX W Hotel, Voznesensky pr. 6, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 610 61 66, www.wstpetersburg.com. The first restaurant in Russia from multi-Michelin starred chef Alain Ducasse. By combining haute cuisine with contempo-rary design, miX fits perfectly into the surrounds of what is now one of Russia’s hippest hotels. Service is perfect and the atmosphere is every inch as glamorous and lively as you may hope. The menu is filled with local and European dishes, all given the finest French touches by the highly presentable chefs over in the open kitchen. After examining the impressively long wine list be sure to sample one of their highly creative cocktails. Q Open 06:30 - 24:00 (breakfast 06:30 - 10:30, lunch 12:00 - 15:00, dinner 18:30 - 24:00). €€€€. PTJAEGKW

Rubinstain D-3, Ul. Rubinsteina 9/3, MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 812 400 00 22, www.rubinstain.ru. If you are walking past and think this place looks a bit bizarre and empty, that’s because what you see up front is not the restaurant proper - the real action is hidden way in the back. Full length windows give an eye-opening view on to a residential court-yard, while big screen football helps distract from some of the less appetizing things that may be found in such yards. On the food side it’s Russian and European. Avoid the boring Rubinstain salad (isn’t it usually called Caesar?) and go for the lamb chops, blini or stroganoff instead, they are all quite satisfying and won’t break the bank. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. €€. PAEBW

Severyanin C-2, Stolyarny per. 18, MSennaya Pl., tel. (+7) 812 951 63 96. The location is magical, a former first floor apartment on one of the backstreets which Dostoevsky used to call home. After walking up the steps and into the restaurant, you will be immediately struck by the whiteness - plain white walls and simple white tables lit by candles - here it is the food that does the talking, not the trendy interior. There are great steaks and mouthwatering game dishes such as wild boar ragout and duck in honey and mustard. Russian classics like stroganoff also feature and the salads are outstandingly fresh. The fact that they immediately bring a complimentary jug of drinking water to your table is another great touch. Q Open 12:00 - 02:00 PW

Truffle Bolshoy pr. 82 (Petrograd Side), MPetrograds-kaya, tel. (+7) 921 999 09 77/(+7) 812 405 90 77. A downstairs bakery offering all manners of cakes, sweets and breads leads to a lofty second floor restaurant with a view over bustling Bolshoi prospect. The muted florals and cosy French sitting room style of the place is well executed and thankfully so are the dishes. On offer are Russian and Italian classics, so if your party is split between those seeking a nice chicken Kiev and a crispy Neopolitan pizza, this is your spot. It goes without saying, either save room for dessert especially the rich chocolate truffles (hence the name) or if savoury is more your thing, grab a bread basket to soak up all the sauce you can. Q Restaurant 12:00 - 24:00; сonfectionary 09:00-21:00 €€. PASW

Volna D-2, Petrovskaya nab. 4, MGorkovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 322 53 83, www.volna.su. From Wave’s panoramic windows, set over two levels of what resembles a spacious country house, you can enjoy a splendid view over the Neva and its bridges. A lot of wood and glass combined with a beige and chocolate colour scheme creates an easy and relaxed atmosphere which suites itself perfectly to both leisurely lunches and romantic dinner dates. The restaurant’s menu promises fresh produce and lists the usual mix of Italian and Japanese cuisine with elements of Russian, French and vegetarian. Marketed as a ‘lounge-restaurant’, live music and karaoke are also thrown into the mix in the evenings. Q Open Sun - Thu 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. €€. PTJAEKW

Fine diningDickens Restaurant С-3, Nab. reky Fontanky 108 (2 floor), MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 702 62 63, www.dickensrest.ru. The popular Dickens pub has a sophisti-cated restaurant upstairs. An open fire place greets you, along with giant imperial oil paintings, tall windows and candle lit tables - it looks like a posh pub inside a stately home. There’s a warm atmosphere and diverse menu, all food is of a high standard and luckily they serve large portions. Q Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 13:00 - 01:00. €€€. PAS


32 RESTAURANTS

Flying Dutchman D-2, My tninskaya nab. 6, MSportivnaya, tel. (+7) 812 313 88 66/(+7) 921 921 36 76, www.gollandec.ru. The first thing you notice about this hulking construction on the side of the Neva is the fitness centre. But there is so much more... like for instance the restaurants. The Flying Dutchman is actually a luxurious fine dining complex with Terrace serving European cuisine, Paluba features a Brazilian grill and the latest entry, Panorama has Japanese dishes far beyond the usual sushi and sashimi. Choose according to your mood as they all possess the unparalleled view of the Neva, Palace Bridge and the Hermitage. The sailing ship, a model of the 18th-century barque Amsterdam, also has a beauty salon. QOpen 10:00 - 06:00. €€€€. PTJAFLEKXSW

Laplandia E-3, Ul. 5-ya Sovetskaya 44, MPl. Voss-taniya, tel. (+7) 812 948 00 99, www.laplandrest.com. An upscale Scandinavian restaurant with a chalet theme to it, Laplandia feels particularly atmospheric when it’s cold and snowy outside. The menu has all the things you would expect of the north; great salmon, perfect cod, trout, wild boar, but no reindeer. There’s also plenty of good vodka served with traditional pickled snacks and favourite Scandinavian desserts. In fact for really filling meals with a healthy slant, this place is hard to fault. QOpen 12:00 - 00:30. €€€. PTESW

Palkin D-3, Nevsky pr. 47, MGostiny Dvor, tel. (+7) 812 703 53 71, www.palkin.ru. Palkin is as historic as they come, dating all the way back to 1874. Although res-toration did take place, the interior is as sophisticated and tasteful as in imperial times, which all adds to the feeling that you are being treated to a meal in some rich aristocrat’s home. The menu is bursting with luxurious foie gras, angus beef, truffles, black caviar and game moulded into historic French/Russian recipes from a bygone era. They also have a seasonally changing five-course special menu with specially selected wines, themed around a different wine-growing area of the world. What’s more their permanent wine cellar has been carefully selected to match perfectly to the Russian dishes on offer (we recommend the Alsace wine). If you have money to burn don’t miss out on the Chateau Montifaud cognac. Booking is recommended. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. €€€€. PTAIEBW

Russian Empire C-2, Nevsky pr. 17, Stroganov palace, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 315 13 43, old.concord-catering.ru/restaurants/russian-ampir/. The three luxurious dining rooms each have their own individual atmosphere and all are decorated genuinely in the finest style. Diners eat from Gianni Versace porcelain plates and drink wine out of Bohemian crystal glasses whilst surrounded by 24-carat gold ornaments, in what once was part of Stroganoff Palace. The wine and cognac list is extensive and rather exclusive: an armagnac from 1812 can be ordered just by the spoonful! QOpen 18:00 - last guest. €€€€. PTALEX

Staraya Tamozhnya (Old Customs House) C-2, VO, Tamozhenny per. 1, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 327 89 80, old.concord-catering.ru/restaurants/old-customs/. Located in an 18th century warehouse, Old Customs House is one of the city’s finest restaurants. The exquisite food, good service and intimate atmosphere make for a great all-round experience. Connoisseurs and lovers of Russian cuisine should definitely visit the Wine Club and the Russian Vodka and Caviar House, which are connected to The Old Customs House. QOpen 13:00 - 01:00. €€€€. PTALEXS

Pancakes (Bliny - блины) are very popular and may come with savoury fillings such as ham (vetchina - ветчина), caviar (ikra - икра), cheese (syr - сыр), mushrooms (griby - грибы) or sour cream (smetana - сметана) or with sweet filling such as honey (myod - мед) or condensed milk (sgushchyonka - сгущенка).

Chainaya Lozhka (Teaspoon) D-2, Nevsky pr. 44, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571 46 57, www.teaspoon.ru. Coffee is to be found in this orange-tinged chain cafe, whose name means teaspoon - although given the name tea is obviously the more interesting choice. The pancakes are served up in a flash in tiny little parcels, although be sure to watch out for all the hidden extra charges (such as for extra butter, sour cream or herbs). Their tea selection is extensive and very good value and every month they do a different pancake pro-motion, which usually works out at pancakes from 29Rbl. Has many locations in the city including ul. Vosstaniya 13 (metro pl. Vosstanya). QOpen 08:30 - 22:30. Open 08:30 - 22:30. Fri - Sun 24hrs with break 04:00 - 05:00. €. PTNGSW

Teremok D-3, Nevsky pr. 60, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 363 23 41, www.teremok.ru. Head upstairs and worship at the throne of Teremok - the pancake or bliny kings. Although it is strictly fast food, the bliny are as-sembled as you order them and there is a wide variety including the Ilya Muromets, a popular concoction of boiled pork, mushrooms and cheese. They also do dif-ferent porridge dishes, an awesome fish soup (ukha) and have beer on tap. There are also 49 takeaway Teremok stands dotted around the city. Restaurant also at Nevsky pr. 93, check the other 35 locations via their website. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. €. PTNGS

Yolki-Palki D-3, Nevsky pr. 88, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 273 15 94, www.elki-palki.ru. Aimed at the tourist market, this slightly cheesy Russian eatery packs in both Russians and foreigners alike. They come here for the good value meals, the staff mincing around in traditional costume and that aromatic smell of shashlik from behind the grill. Sit under the plastic forest canopy (somehow this is oddly appealing), while filling up on an all-you-can-eat plate from the buffet wagons or order something from the menu. Also at Malaya Konyushen-naya 9, tel. (+7) 812 571 03 85. Q Open 24 hours. €. PTANBXS

Russian Pancakes - Bliny


33RESTAURANTS

Taleon Restaurant C-2, (Taleon Imperial Hotel) Nevsky pr. 15, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 324 99 11, www.taleonimperialhotel.com. From the very first second upon entering, it’s not difficult to understand why this establishment has been voted best luxury restaurant in St. Petersburg no less than three times. The tuxedoed maître d’ greets you with a warm smile and ushers you into a dining room resplendent with ornate gilt walls, hung with renaissance paintings and furnished in the understated 17th century style. If the surroundings failed to impress, just wait for your order to arrive. Leisurely paced with appetite inspiring pates and palate cleansing sorbets, each dish arrives beautifully presented and immaculately prepared in fine continental style meant to be savored. The wine list is above reproach and their brunch will make you think you’ve died and gone to a culinary heaven worthy of the tsars. QOpen 19:00 - 23:00. €€€€. PALESW

VOX D-2, Solyanoy per. 16, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 273 14 69, www.voxresto.ru. On the corner of the delightfully walkable Solyanoy pereulok and ulitsa Pestelya, Vox has a top-notch location. It’s the perfect place to sip coffee while watching the mixed crowds go by, from local art students to wandering tourists. The interior is equally impressive with its dim light, white linens and black and white photographs. The pastas are all hand-made in-house and are particularly authentic, although anything you opt for should delight your tastebuds. It goes without saying, the wine list is a careful selection of fine vintages that will perfectly augment your meal. QOpen 13:00 - 24:00. €€€. PTALVBXS

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International22.13 D-2, Pl. Konyushennaya 2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 647 80 50, www.22-13.com. The owners have taken inspiration from all of their favourite places in creating this gor-geous two storey restaurant overlooking the former imperial stables. Culinary influences include American hamburgers, Thai curries, Italian pizzas and French pastries. Furnishings and accents are equally eclectic and the space has been arranged in such a way that there are all sorts of nooks and crannies to settle into for long chats over innovative cocktails or to while away the hours with your laptop or any of the books and magazines they’ve thoughtfully provided. Their hearty breakfast menu (real American pancakes and maple syrup!) make for a great start to the day. QOpen 08:00 - 02:00. €€. PTAEBSW

Okean C/D-2, PS, Dobrolyubova pr .14a (next to Birzhevoy bridge), MSportivnaya, tel. (+7) 812 986 86 00, www.okean.spb.ru. What was once the popular Aquarel restaurant, has after some time under wraps finally been revealed to be a new elegant and yet ‘democratic’ (in other words, reasonably priced) restaurant that is not as flashy as the old place but certainly retains the view, atmosphere and terrace that made it so popular before. The coolest aspect of the architecture is that the walls are windows - so wherever you sit you can see the River Neva stretching out beyond. Q From 12:00 till last guest. €€€€. PTALEBSW


34 RESTAURANTS

Ryba D-1, Ul. Akademika Pavlova 5, MPetrogradskaya, tel. (+7) 812 234 50 60, www.probka.org. We don’t know why Ryba (which means ‘fish’) has chosen this name, but pay no attention. This place is a sort of modern and stylish grand cafe restaurant in the top of a business centre with a sublime view above the city (Petrograd Side). The food is international, the Russian way: Italian and Asian (wok). Popular among rich and middle class Russians, but the prices are pretty reasonable and the staff are efficient and some are quite confident with their English. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00. €€. PTAESW

Sasha’s RestoBar D-3, Ul. Marata 5, MMayakovs-kaya, tel. (+7) 812 600 45 00, www.sashasbar.ru. Done up entirely in frosted glass, mirrors and snowy white, this joint is really aiming for its customers to fill in the blanks on what they want their experience to be. The cocktail and wine list, guest DJs, neon lit disco bar and late hours invite the moneyed club set, while the menu lets the foodies decide if they’re in the mood for local cuisine, Italian or Japanese. Of the dining options, the Asian seems obligatory and lackluster while the rest of the dishes are exactly the opposite with carefully chosen additions and accompaniments such as local mushroom varieties and imported flavoured oils lend-ing punch and delicacy to what would be otherwise standard pizzas, soups and meaty mains. QOpen 10:00 - 05:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 05:00. €€. PTAXW

Soholounge D-2, Konyushennaya pl. 2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 647 80 80, www.insoholounge.com. The owners of Soholounge (who also run the two bar/restaurants next door) were inspired by the cutting-edge fashions and neighbourhood feel of the Soho areas of London and New York and have successfully started creating their own mini-soho in this historic corner of St. Petersburg, with the Soholounge being the most fashionable of their hit parade of restaurants. The huge pictures of Johnny Depp and co. on the walls, original American mini-burgers, cosmopolitan ‘new American’ menu, which includes great steaks, salads and vegetarian options and the outstanding cocktail-menu are pure Manhattan. Q Open Mon - Thu 12:00 - 00:00, Fri - Sat 12:00 - 06:00, Sun 12:00 - 00:00. €€. PALEXW

Soup Wine C-2, Ul. Kazanskaya 24, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 312 76 90, www.supvino.ru. Five tables with bar stools are all you will find in this sleek and agreeable diner. The menu is as small as the place itself, boasting a simple yet tasty choice of soups and salads but also a selection of fresh juices, pasta and wine. The hot chocolate is the kind you eat with a spoon and the salads come in bowls heaving with green leaves. Given the size and how easy it is to sit and linger listening to the operatic soundtrack, it is definitely advised to book ahead. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. €. PAGS

Teplichnye usloviya C-2, Kanal Griboedeva 25/3, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571 56 59, www.teplich-nie.ru. Meaning ‘greenhouse’, this cute and inviting café-restaurant, perfectly located just behind Kazansky cathedral, is inspired by kitchen gardens and all that can be found in such places. The window sills have become flower beds to grow colourful herbs in, and watering cans, baskets filled with fresh veg and pot plants are dotted all around the two rooms. As you might guess the menu has a lot of vegetarian options and focuses heavily on using seasonal ingredients meaning it changes often. Free wifi, interesting music and laidback staff also attracts those who like to come and just enjoy a quiet drink. If you do pop by to quench your thirst be sure to try one of their healthy fruit smoothies, homemade ginger ales or a hot cocktail. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. €. PTW

Teplo C-2, Ul. Bolshaya Morskaya 45, MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 570 19 74, www.v-teple.ru. In essence, this is a place that lives up to its name. Meaning warmth in Russian, Teplo is a winner. Things are done here subtly and well. The understated homely decor, the thoroughly intelligent menu, the delightful service (yes the waitresses smile!) all make coming here similar to dropping by your best friend’s house and having a bite to eat in their lounge room or on their patio or in their kitchen full of freshly baked pies and breads. Indeed wherever you end up eating, you’ll linger, eat, drink and put off leaving. Q Open 09:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 13:00 - 01:00 €. PTAIBSW

VinoGrad Cafe D-3, ul. Marata 47, MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 812 333 47 47, www.vinogradcafe.ru. You’d think semi-private booths, a below street location and dark brick walls would inevitably lead to a dark, gloomy dining establishment but the clever use of light woods, bright bowls of citrus on the tables and the cheerful serving staff quickly banish that assumed truth. Unlike many other restaurants who throw sushi on an otherwise continental menu just to follow trend, Vinograd has throughly incorporated the flavours of asia by employing two master chefs, one for each side of the menu. On one half pastas, paella, grilled meats and fish are listed and on the other, sushi, dim sum and noodle dishes are displayed. Whatever your mood, what arrives at your table is quality. English-speaking staff, no English menu. QOpen 12:00 - 03:00. €€. PTAEXSW

ItalianBarbaresco D-2, Konyushennaya pl. 2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 647 82 82, www.barbarescoitaliano.com. The central restaurant in a double-decker trio housed in the former imperial stables, this particular venue specializes in simple, but high-end Italian food and takes it’s name from the wine produced in the Piedmont region in the north of Italy. The lofty space is done in muted earth tones that compliment the exposed brick and beams and is littered with wine bottles and black and white photos. All the dishes are deliciously executed in filling portions, but we recommend going for either of the multi-course tasting menus for a luxurious dinner that will leave you lingering in the warmth of satisfaction. Mind the sommelier, who unlike any other we had ever seen, will actually sample your wine first before pouring you a trial sip. Cheeky or checking for poisoning? QOpen 08:00 - 00:00, Fri 08:00 - 06:00, Sat 10:00 - 06:00, Sun 10:00 - 00:00. €€. PTAILEGBSW

Borsalino (Angleterre Hotel) C-2, Ul. Malaya Mors-kaya 24, MSadovaya, tel. (+7) 812 494 51 15, www.angleterrehotel.com. Borsalino’s Italian head chef has made this restaurant a destination for tourists and residents alike for years. Their menu is simple Italian fare, exactingly prepared and plated and infused with rich, authentic flavour from all over Italy. An exemplary wine list, professional service and a regularly changing seasonal menu would be more than enough to satisfy even without the amazing views of St. Isaac’s square. Their buffet business lunch is also a bargain, as is their breakfast, top that off with a daily 2 for 1 happy hour and it’s clear why this restaurant is bustling from morning to night. QOpen 07:30 - 01:00. €€€. PTALESW

Mestо svobodno? = Is this seat free?


35RESTAURANTS

Crowne Plaza St.Petersburg Ligovsky Tel.: +7(812) 244 00 [email protected]


36 RESTAURANTS

Kroshka Kartoshka D-3, Nevsky pr. 122 A, MPl. Vostanniya, tel. (+7) 901 305 21 50, www.kartosh-ka.com. This very no-frills joint is an ode to the humble potato (kartoshka). You can get your kartoshka in the kroshka style (i.e., baked) with a choice of fillings such as feta cheese, bacon and sour cream or aubergine stew. They also do paninis, salads and very cheap beer to wash it all down. Also at ul. Malaya Sadovaya 3 (metro Gostiny Dvor). QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. €. TGS

Stolle Cafe D-2, Konushenny per. 1/6, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 312 18 62, www.stolle.ru. Stolle’s big attraction is their pies, which are quite possibly the best in St. Petersburg. Both sweet pies filled with fruit or savoury pies with mushrooms, fish and meat all get washed down nicely with a coffee (or two or three). The relaxing atmosphere is soothing and addictive. Stolle claims to have recreated the feel and flavour of an early 20th century St. Petersburg cafe, but really it is something more reminiscent of a modern Viennese Cafe, especially on Vasilevsky Island. Also at ul. Dekabristov 19, ul. Deka-bristov 33, ul. Vosstanya 32 and VO, 1-linya 50. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. €. PTLVNGXS

Van der Wafel C-2, Ul. Lomonosova 1, MGostiny Dvor, tel. (+7) 812 314 9085. If you are missing the crispy on the outside, fluffy on the inside, hot off the griddle delight known as the waffle - you no longer have to. In the quirkily accessorized, two-tiered cafe Van der Wafel, you can enjoy Belgian style waffles made fast and topped off with any kind of fruit, cream, syrup or ice cream you can imagine or try one of their sandwiches. Made of a halved waffle, stuffed with melted cheese, vegetables and meat, they are surprisingly tasty and filling. Fresh salads are also on offer, as are a bevy of smoothies and coffee concoc-tions. QOpen 11:00 - 21:30. €. TAGSW

Cheap eats Da Albertone D-2, Ul. MIllionnaya 23, MGostiny Dvor, tel. (+7) 812 315 86 73, www.daalbertone.ru. For good pizzas and other Italian food go ahead to Da Albertone, which is tucked away at walking distance from the Hermitage. The restaurant definitely offers more than your average pizzeria and the service is also worth mentioning. There are various choices for all kinds of budgets, small or large. The house wine is not bad at all and the chefs specials change weekly. They also have a large playroom to leave the kids in. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. €€. PTAUVBSW

Gusto E-3, Ul. Degtyarnaya 1A, MPl. Vostanniya, tel. (+7) 812 941 17 44, www.probka.org. A classy and hip little place where local businessmen and gastrophiles come regu-larly to feast on excellent Italian food and good wines. In fact, many of the patrons seem to just sit down and are immediately served their favourite bottle, followed by a selection of dishes from the chef without a word being spoken to the waiters. It’s that kind of attention, atmosphere and food. The menu looks basic but all the dishes are complex mouth-watering master-pieces which benefit from a light hand and subtle tastes. Be sure to order the bread basket, a selection of freshly baked, in-house rolls and loaves that are perfect for mopping up every last drop of sauce. Be sure to save some space for one of the homemade desserts if possible. Q Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. €€. PTALESW

Italy D-1, Bolshoy pr. P.S., 58, MPetrogradskaya, tel. (+7) 812 900 63 33, www.italy-cafe.ru. The chef spent six years in I taly, learning the secrets of I talian cooking - and it is felt in every dish.The pasta is prepared fresh for each individual diner as you can observe with your very own eyes, cour tesy of the open ki tchen. In addition to traditional I talian dishes of pizza and pasta, they have surprisingly well done stir-fries or grilled fish and meat. Wash it all down with their sublime homestyle lemonade. Downstairs is the Dolci I taly bakery where, i f you’ve made the mistake of coming on an empty stomach or simply want to top off a meal you can enjoy classic I talian desserts with a cup of hot coffee or tea. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. €€. PASW

Marcelli’s D-3, Ul. Vosstaniya 15, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 702 80 10, www.marcellis.ru. Simply styled to reflect the stereotypes of Italy (jars of condiments and olives here, an Italian meat and cheese case there), it’s the tables full of noisy dinners that really make up the unpretentious atmosphere. The simple menu tends towards pastas and risottos in marathon-runner-sized portions, and where the dishes pop with garlic and the sauces are infused to bursting with tomato, chili and basil. Whenever we finish dining here, we’re always tempted to do it all again immediately but can never find the space for even a tenth. Dishes can also be ordered in smaller portions for kids or perhaps for those on a diet. Q Open 11:00 - 24:00, Fri - Sat 11:00 - 01:00. €. PTABSW

Mozzarellabar C-2, Nab. kan. Griboedova 64, MSa-dovaya, tel. (+7) 812 310 64 54, www.probka.org. This sprawling, fresh and airy restaurant with views to the canal makes a nice venue for a speedy and unpretentious Italian lunch or dinner. As you arrive you’ll find that every table already has a menu on it, so no need to wait around for one of the hip waitresses to come and bring you one. And what’s on the menu here? Well, mozzarella of course! The pizzas and salad caprese naturally are good choices and we also enjoyed the grilled shrimps. As is becoming the norm here they also do sushi - seemingly Russians can’t live without it. Also at PS Bolshoy pr. 13/4 (metro Sportivnaya). QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. €€. PTAEXSW


37RESTAURANTS

Rossi’s D-2, (Grand Hotel Europe) Ul. Mikhailovskaya 1-7, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 329 66 22, www.grandhoteleurope.com. If you need to discuss delicate matters with your (business) partner and you want to sit in a luxurious place resembling a small Mediterranean castle with an excellent view to the street, then head to Rossi’s. Their I talian chef Vincenzo Squarciafoco really knows his stuff and offers dishes from all over the country, from the spices of the Neapolitan region that he hails from to gnocci from the north. Service is impeccable, the wine list likewise and each generous portion of delicate but hearty pastas, antipastas and the like will leave you in gastro-nomic heaven. Be sure to try any of the specially prepared carpaccios, they are divine. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. €€€€. PTALEBXSW

Testo C-2, Grivtsova ul. 5/29, MSadovaya, tel. (+7) 812 315 64 20, www.testogastronomica.ru. Pizza and pasta are what they do here in this novelty little basement bar, named after the Russian word for dough. They make their own pasta, changing the menu daily and serve up the pizza with tasty Italian style thin crusts and freshly grated parmesan. The grey and red interior and relaxed atmosphere makes it perfect for lone diners, lunchers or anyone after a snack. Beers are available on tap as well as a choice of wines. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. €€. PTAXSW

Mexican and Latin AmericanConchita Bonita C-2, Ul. Gorokhovaya 39, MSa-dovaya, tel. (+7) 812 570 60 50. The Cuban owners and Latino staff do their best to entertain guests and create a lively atmosphere at this little South American restaurant near Sennaya ploshchad. While the hot dishes can’t really be described as spicy and the guacamole is a bit flat, the atmosphere is good, especially when there’s a live band on and there’s a wide selection of cigars. QOpen 24h, Mon, Sun 11:00 - 23:00. €€. AXS

O! Cuba D-3, Ul. Rubinshteina 36, MDostoevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 312 88 92. Whatever the weather outside, it’s always summer in O! Cuba. The entire place has been done up like a Cuban veranda complete with sky-blue walls, patio seating and even a 1950s Buick convertible you can dine in. The smiley wait staff will serve you a complimentary mini-mojito while you look through a menu more ubiquitously Latin than Cuban, with quesadillas and paella being on of-fer. Portions are huge and there’s real heat to the dishes, which make that second mojito go down all the smoother. Live music Friday and Saturday nights and don’t forget to check out the toilets which feature a soundtrack of Castro pontificating. Q Open 11:00 - 23:00. Fri, sat 11:00 - 01:00. €. PTAEBSW

Traditional Russian food is rich and stodgy peasant-fare from the village with a dash of French inspired creamy sauces. I f you are wondering what that green grass stuff is, it’s dill (ukrop-укроп) and it usually finds its way into everything.

Bliny and snacksSnacks (zakuski -закуски) are very popular and in-clude all manner of pickled things (solyony-соленый ) as well as small open sandwiches (buterbrod-бутерброд). Pancakes (Bliny - блины) are very popular and may come with savoury fillings such as ham (vetchina-ветчина), caviar (ikra-икра), cheese (syr-сыр), mushrooms (griby-грибы) or sour cream (Smetana-сметана) or with sweet filling such as honey (myod –мед) or condensed milk (sgushonka - сгущенка).

Soups and saladsRussians are big on soups and there are literally hundreds of different kinds. The quintessential Rus-sian soup is of course the beetroot and beef based borsch. Ukha (уха) a fish soup often made with salmon or trout is another favourite as is the heavy meaty ‘hunters’ soup Solyanka (солянка). Russian salads invariably have mayonnaise in them and are a permanent feature on any menu. The classic Russian salad is Olivye (оливье) – boiled potatoes, carrots, peas and eggs, pickled Cucumbers with either cheap spam ham or something luxurious like lobster, sturgeon or crayfish. Selyodka pod shuboy (селедка под шубой) which translates as ‘herring under a fur coat’ is another popular salad consisting of layers of pickled herring, boiled potatoes and beetroot.

Main dishesPelmeni (пельмени) – Boiled dumplings stuf fed with meat and served with sour cream. Varenki (вареники) are the same but stuffed with vegetables or sweet fillings. Uzbek versions (manty- манты) are slightly bigger and often steamed, while the Georgian version (khinkali - хинкали) are huge and eaten with the hands.Beef stroganoff (бефстроганов) – A Russian classic famous across the world. Gribnoi Julienne (грибной жюльен) – rich mush-room, butter and cream dish.Pirogi/pirozhki (пироги/пирожки)– pies (usually made with bready yeast dough) stuffed with meat, cabbage, mushroom, fruits or even potato. Pirozhki (пирожки) are the small versions that look like little buns.Shashlik (шашлык) – shish kebabs coming usually in pork (svinoi - свиной), veal or chicken (kuriny - куриный) varieties. Kotlety (котлеты) – little meat patties usually made with minced beef (govyadina - говядина) or pork (svinina - свинина). Frikadelki (фрикадельки) are meatballs and similar in taste but made with rice and meat and usually served with a sauce.Grechka (гречка) – buckwheat, served sometimes as a garnish or sometimes as a porridge (kasha - каша).Draniki (драники) – fried potato pancakes (similar to the Swiss rosti), usually served with sour cream and smoked salmon.

Russian Cuisine


38 RESTAURANTS

Tequila Boom B-2/3, Voznesensky pr. 57/127, MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 310 15 34, www.tequila-boom.ru. A raucous and fun place for a night of Mexicana. Tequila Boom has tequila (obviously) and a menu filled with big Mexican classics like burritos and fajitas doused in sour cream and salsa. Portions are authentically large, although many people prefer to come to this cantina just to drink and eat snacks. The happy hour deals offer great value, especially if you’re into tequila based cocktails - in fact the drinks menu runs to more pages than the food, which on a baking hot day, is no bad thing. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00. €€. PTALES

Tres Amigos D-3, Ul. Rubinshteina 25, MDostoevs-kaya, tel. (+7) 812 572 26 85, www.tres-amigos.ru. With a wide selection of tequila and cocktails, a supervised kids room and a Latin dance show (Friday and Sunday nights), this can be a great place to wind-down after a hard week at work. The food is delicious, particularly the fresh guacamole with corn chips and the servings are large. All the mains come with a complimentary side dish although judging from recent visits the jury is out on the staff - sometimes they are bordering on courteous and at others they have been plain outrageously rude. Q From 12:00 until last guest. €€. PTAEXS

SpanishDon Pepe D-3, Ul. Malaya Sadovaya 1/25, MGostiny Dvor, tel. (+7) 812 314 39 65/(+7) 921 595 85 24, www.donpepe.ru. Scrumptious Spanish tapas just steps from Nevsky prospekt. This is authentic fare cooked with flair by chef Don Pepe. A mix of different dishes, all supremely affordable and delicious, supplemented by Sangria makes this place perfect for a quick bite (try their weekday buffet lunch deal if you happen to be in the area - it’s a steal) or a more substantial meal in the evening. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00. €. PAEBXSW

Macarena Moskovsky pr. 206, MMoskovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 906 39 00, www.macarenabar.ru. A lesson in how make a sophisticated yet comfortable and acces-sible Spanish/Italian restaurant. Through the Chilli-tunnel entrance the interior continues to warm with soft woods and dim lights. Red meats and fish dominate this hearty menu. We recommend the delicious seafood platter and the spicy Spanish wines to wash it down. There is also a diverse business lunch everyday and live Latino themed music every Saturday night. Q Open 08:00 - 03:00, Mon 08:00 - 01:00, Fri 08:00 - 06:00, Sat 12:00 - 06:00, Sun 12:00 - 01:00. €€. PTAEBSW

Madridsky Dvor E-3, Suvorovsky pr. 24/8-ya Sovets-kaya 14, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 271 20 94, www.madrid-restoran.ru. This is a luxurious Spanish restaurant with a stunning interior. ‘Madrid Courtyard’ has different sections, ranging from relaxed sitting places to fine dining tables. It’s fun just to look around at all the art and minute detail that went into designing the walls and the ceilings. But it’s the great authentic food you’re here for, amongst others classic, black and vegetarian Paella. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. €€€. PAISW

VegetarianBotanika D-2, Ul. Pestelya 7, MChernishevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 272 70 91, www.cafebotanika.ru. Excel-lent vegetarian food including outstanding salads (try the tabouleh), great pasta and filling soups. Reminiscent of a Victorian dining parlour with greenery scattered with a touch of a 70s wholefood cafe. The interior sports three calming tones of green, there are pumpkins and flowers strewn around and the sofas are soft. The walls are adorned with hip large-scale photographic prints. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 01:00. €. PTAIGBSW

Le Menu D-2, Pr. Dobrolubova 1/79, MSportivnaya, tel. (+7) 812 933 52 29, www.le-menu.ru. Located a stone’s throw away from Peter and Paul Fortress and Leningrad Zoo is a vegetarian oasis that would look right at home in the center of any Western metropolis. Quality contemporary furnishings in muted sage and cut frame mirrors accent the chalkboard menu and allow the baked desserts and bowls of fruit to visually pop. Everything is made fresh and light from the juices to the salads and soups then straight on into the mains, which include pastas, risot-tos and fish. There’s even an Indian imports shop next door, whose heady smells of incense and eye-popping linens only add to the otherworldly experience. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. €. PAGW

Pervoe, vtoroe i kompot D-3, Ul. Zhukovskogo 10, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 719 65 42, kompot-cafe.ru. That’s starter, main and a juice in English, a Rus-sian in-joke about what food was like in the Soviet union that you are not expected to get. What you will quickly understand though is that this is a friendly little place (so very anti-soviet), plying a cosy environment filled with subtly trendy nick-nacks and a good line in home-food that will put a smile on your face after a tough day of sightseeing. Kids are made more than welcome, while hipsters will love the tunes spun by a DJ and everyone gets a free juice on arrival. Staff are friendly, there’s loads of vegetarian options and everything is made fresh. Q Open 12:00 - last guest €. PTAVESW


39NIGHTLIFESt. Petersburg’s brilliant nightlife has dimly lit jazz halls, groovy strip clubs, cosy pubs and a vibrant underground music scene. Be aware that some clubs and fancier bars have a dress code policy, known locally as ‘face control’.

Bars and pubsAbeerdeen Liteyny pr. 10, MChernyshevskya, tel. (+7) 812 400 22 17, www.abeerdeen.ru. Somehow they’ve managed to make medieval elegant instead of gimmicky at this Scottish gastro pub. The hammered silver finishings and rough wood is in harmonious accord with subtle tartan wall-paper and photographs. Which is dangerous considering how extensive their whiskey selection is - hands down the best in the city. Throw in pleasant, helpful staff, massive portions of delicious pub grub and you may find you’ve spent everything in your wallet and are not the least bit sad about it. In case your wondering, haggis is indeed available - but bring your adventurous friends, as the minimal order is a whopping three kilos. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. PAESW

Barslona D-3, Ul. Rubinsteina 26, MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 812 900 01 12, wwww.barslona.ru. This Spanish bar and restaurant has that sunny and friendly Spanish feel, but surprisingly enough is completely run by Russians - well it only takes a smile now and then it seems, to get things warmed up. As you would expect from a football mad country, match days have a great atmosphere here. Their sangria comes in huge jugs and has plenty of ice, although the tapas is quite the reverse and although tasty, the price to size ratio is not great. QOpen 12:00 - 06:00. PABSW

Dacha C-2, Ul. Dumskaya 9, MGostiny Dvor. This place gets really crowded during the weekend but then it also tends to be more fun. The later the hour the crazier the atmosphere with people dancing up a huge sweat in this tiny pocket of a place. Don’t dress too fancy if you’re coming here for the night, you’re likely to get beer spilt on you and the place is smokier than a cuban warehouse. Despite the mess the friendly and energetic atmosphere of Dacha is addictive. During the day they have a few tables outside and the same quality taste in music which is complimented by sandwiches, homemade lemonade and free wifi. QOpen 12:00 - 06:00. PJEX

Dickens C-3, Nab. reky Fontanky 108, MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 380 78 88. This British island near the Fontanka river has beer from all around the world, including more than ten on tap, and a lot of superior whiskys. The snacks and food are good too (the chicken wings are our favourites) and come in huge portions. Don’t forget to try the breakfast here - it’s a great hangover cure and real authentic British. Dickens has an authentic pub atmosphere, which is as close to a real British pub that you’ll find in Russia and also features a fine dining restaurant on the second floor. Q Open 08:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 03:00, Sun, Mon 08:00 - 01:00. PALXS


40 NIGHTLIFE

Helsinki Bar C-2, Kadetskaya Liniya 31, MVasileo-strovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 995 19 95, www.helsinkibar.ru. This place is like a nostalgia trip to your familial home of the late 70s. Well, that’s the case if you were Finnish and your parents spun vinyl while slugging horseradish home-brew liquor. Quirkily retro with toilets wallpapered with vintage Finnish magazine adverts featuring the latest in polyester style and a cozy cabin atmosphere in the dining area, the menu is no less a mixture of swank and substance. There are classic Russian dishes such as kutleti, but with reindeer meat and the cod is delicately prepared with sublime wild rice. We recommend coming with friends and getting a smattering of the well-priced and gracefully presented starters to share over above-rate lager and the aforementioned in-house fla-voured vodka. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - last guest. ESW

Hundertwasser Bar B-2, Teatralnaya pl. 4, MSadova-ya, tel. (+7) 911 171 80 26, www.hundertwasserbar.com. It’s got half the clutter of your university hole-in-the-wall coffee shop and twice the liquor. There are two rooms, each furnished with that classic mixture of well-loved antiques and practical modern pieces. On the left is the bar area which offers all the standards in alcohol, plus great coffee, sandwiches and cake. On the right is the real draw, however. Done in bohemian parlour style, it’ll seem under furnished unless you’re here on Saturday nights or any other time the conservatory students happen to get together for a jam ses-sion. The piano is stationary, but you never know what other instruments will be brought into the mix for an evening out that’s far more beatnik than beatbox. QOpen 12.00 - 23.30, Sat, Sun 12:00 - last guest. EGXW

James Cook D-2, Shvedsky per. 2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 951 22 02, www.jcpub.ru. This popular tavern in a vintage basement features one of the longest bars in town. The cellar is divided into two halves, one for the consumption of coffee and cakes, the other reserved for the harder stuff. Not only are the draft beers diverse and poured expertly, there is a wide range of tempting snacks to accompany your beverage of choice, including some great steaks served up on a wooden butcher’s block. Q Open 12:00 until the last guest. PAEW

Pickwick Pub E-3, Ul. Ryleeva 6, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 275 61 41. Pickwicks is a real English pub through and through. The staff exchange friendly banter with the punters, there’s premiership football on the tv, real ales on tap and pickled eggs on the bar. The cosy interior is a beautiful recreation of a London victorian pub complete with hand-carved wood fittings, a real fireplace and antique stained glass fittings. Order a pint of one of twenty on tap and settle in for some jolly good fun with the chaps. Tallyho old chum! Q Open 12:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 03:00, Sun, Mon 12:00 - 01:00 PAISW

Poison C-2, Ul. Lomonosova 2, MGostiny Dvor. This rock and roll karaoke bar derives it’s name from the Rus-sian imperative ‘Sing!’ (poy) which the crowd enthusiasti-cally obeys every night starting at 22:00. A rotating line-up of hosts encourages the patrons by cheerfully crooning their own favourites and before long they can’t find a place in the lineup. All voices are applauded, some energetic dancing equally signals approval and the bartenders are quick and friendly in keeping spirits (pun intended) up. For a pre-sing snack or quick pick-up, Kartofun will also deliver their hearty portions of chips, sandwiches or grenky. No charge for taking to the mike and the song menu has everything from Abba to Zeppelin. QOpen 18:00 - 06:00. JESW


41NIGHTLIFE

Shamrock B-2, Ul. Dekabristov 27 (Teatralnaya pl.), MSadovaya, tel. (+7) 812 570 46 25, www.shamrock.spb.ru. This cosy Irish pub opposite the Mariinsky Theatre has a great atmosphere, 13 types of beer and seriously good food. Sometimes dancers of the Mariinsky come here incognito for a drink after their performance. Otherwise the pleasant companionship of Russians and expats creates an enjoyable and unpredictable evening. Hear traditional live Irish music on Wednesday and on Sunday night various folk musicians meet up for a jam session. The Shamrock also shows international sport events on 3 big screens, including English Premiership football, American NFL, rugby and local sport favourites Zenit and SKA. We visited this pub for the first time in 1995 and still do - doesn’t that say enough? QOpen 11:00 - 02:00. PAEXSW

Telegraph D-3, Ul. Rubinsteina 3, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 327 74 79, www.pub-telegraph.ru. This stylish British pub, situated in a cosy cellar not far from Nevsky Pros-pekt, is an easy meeting place for beer lovers, which is why it can be enjoyably crowded here. Another plus is the big screen for live football and other sports matches. In some ways it is a bit of a lonely old man’s pub where you can find dozens of single men who’ve got no one to cook for them having a plate of bangers and mash on their lonesome. Q Open: Sun-Thu 12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 05:00. PALEXSW

Terminal Bar D-3, Ul. Rubinsteina 13a, MVladimirs-kaya, tel. (+7) 812 939 61 23, www.terminalbar.spb.ru. The friendly owners here, who spent years in New York, insist that this long, thin and friendly bar is a homage to New York and their favourite bar there Terminal. We (Europeans) felt it was more like one of those friendly Spanish places where jolly conversations fall across beers and coffees along the long bar and out into the street. Either way, what they are offer-ing here is all very good. A simple but clean bar, with a nice view to the street, chatty staff and a good mix of bohemian regulars, plus quality music served at background levels. Our only complaint is why are the beers so small? Q Open 16:00 - last guest PNXSW

XXXX Bar E-3, Ul. 3-ya Sovetskaya 34, MPl. Vostan-niya, tel. (+7) 812 920 40 65/(+7) 812 244 99 99, xxxxbar.ru. XXXX bar is fast becoming legendary in the St. Petersburg bar scene, with new branches popping up all over the place. The interior looks like a bit of a mess full of flags, banners and random nick nacks scattered around the place and tables that are alarming close to each other. Although calm during the week, come the weekend it goes bezerk with impromptu dancing on the bar, strip competitions and the alcohol flowing like a river.Q Open 12:00 - 02:00, Thu, Fri 12:00 - 05:00. Sat, Sun 15:00 - 05:00. Admission free - but, if the club is very busy an entrance fee may apply. Face control, dress code. PAEBSW

Cocktail barsBar (812) D-3, Ul. Zhukovskogo 11, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 956 81 29, www.bar812.ru. Weeknights this narrow place seems like a quiet, unassuming place to sip a cocktail and chat with a date or a friendly fellow patron. At the weekend, however, the beautiful people come out to glide past face control and play Carrie Bradshaw with their cosmos in hand and dance stillettos at the ready. No beer, just (expertly) mixed drinks. QOpen 18:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 04:00. Closed Mon. PEW


Barrel C-2, Ul. Kazanskaya 5, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 929 82 98. This slick black and neon looking place has got a bit of an attitude to it - one that says dress rich and spend money. Their cocktails are good compared to the sad orange juice and vodka (‘the screwdriver’) that you may get served in the average bar, although they take a long time to arrive. There’s also an elaborate menu done up like a glossy magazine offering a bit of everything, but primarily this is a place to sit in your fox fur stole with a martini and look down at the fellow wannabe VIPs in attendance - until it’s pole danc-ing time, of course. Free karaoke on Wednesday nights and frequent guest DJs at the weekend. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00, Sat, Sun 13:00 - 02:00. PAEKSW

Daiquiri Bar D-2, Ul. Bolshaya Konyushennaya 1, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 943 81 14, www.dbar.ru. Sexy girls in racy outfits and handsome men in suits cover the walls in this red, white and chrome homage to Sex and the City. The staff are extremly friendly and the cocktails professionally made - the house daiquiris are particularly good. With more than 250 exotic yet reasonably priced cocktails on the list it can be a good place to start the weekend. The second Daiquiri bar has just been opened on Gorokhovaya ul. 49. Q Open 16:00 - 04:00. Fri, Sat 16:00 - 06:00. PJASW

Dom Byta С/D-3, Ul. Razyezzhaya 12, MVladimir-skaya, tel. (+7) 812 975 55 99. The owners had their tongues firmly in cheek when this bar was named after the type of storefronts that offer everything from plastic table-cloths to watch repair. The interior is pure 70s swank, with burnished gold wall hangings and a long turquoise bar. Nice touches like vintage glass ashtrays and antique porcelain teapots show impeccable taste in kitsch and the DJs are no less sensitive to the mood, playing subtle electro tracks on quieter nights and amping it up for the more boisterous weekends. In keeping with the attention to detail, the food, if a bit pricey, is also meticulously prepared and presented. For all the lounge lizards out there - it’s officially martini time. Q Open 12:00 - 06:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 07:00. Admission free. Fri, Sat facecontrol. PASW

Larger European acts that have still not quite made it far enough into the big time to sell-out stadiums and concert halls can generally be found in the large ex-cinema Cos-monavt, Club Jagger out in the southern suburbs or Zal Ozhidanya (literally waiting room) in the back of the old train depot. If you want to catch up–and-coming Russian bands trying to make their way on the local scene check out Fish Fabrique Nouvelle or Tsokol.Club Cosmonavt D-4, Ul. Bronnitskaya 24, MTekh-nologichesky Institut, tel. (+7) 812 922 13 00, www.kosmonavt.su.Club Fish Fabrique Nouvelle E-3, Ligovsky pr. 53, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 764 48 57.Club Jagger Pl. Konstitutsii 2, MMoskovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 923 12 92, jaggerclub.ru.Club Zal Ozhidaniya Nab. Obvodnogo kanala 118, MBaltiyskaya, tel. (+7) 812 333 10 68, www.clubzal.com.Tsokol D/E-3, Ul. 3-ya Sovetskaya 2/3, MPl. Voss-taniya, tel. (+7) 812 274 94 67, www.zoccolo.ru

Best Concert Places


42 NIGHTLIFE

Gloss Cafe C-2, Nevsky pr. 17, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 315 23 15, www.concord-catering.ru. Pass the guy in 18th Century clothing advertising a chocolate ‘museum’ that in most places would usually be known as a shop, and you’ll find gloss. The name here is not misleading. This is a den of gleaming black walls, lustrous red furnishings and rich Russians sipping exotic cocktails. They’ve got a huge menu of sushi, wok dishes and fusion food too so it’s not a bad option for dinner. If you’re not dressed to kill, expect a frosty reception, although if you’re here to impress, make yourself at home. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00. PAEKSW

Artsy / undergroundDusche E-4, Ligovsky pr. 50, corpus 6, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 960 246 45 50, www.dusche.ru. Fittingly enough for a club launched by members of the rock band Leningrad, the club is tucked away in a grotty courtyard behind Tekhno-shok (through the archway, first left, then first right) that’s littered with miscellaneous crumbling storefronts. The venue itself has a New York loft feel, with its exposed brick walls and high, beamed ceilings. The interior is divided by an elevated seating area with lounging nooks underneath. Bartenders are pierced and manic-paniced but friendly and the young art-punk crowd can get quite rowdy on the weekends, while weekdays are surprisingly chill. Guest DJs and underground bands perform and there are also occasional film screenings and fashion shows. QOpen 20:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 20:00 - 06:00. Closed Mon. PE

Fidel D-3, Ul. Dumskaya 9, MGostiny Dvor, tel. (+7) 906 809-61-03, www.barfidel.ru. Fidel - can get packed so if you want a seat you need to work faster than a babushka on the metro. Either that or get there early. But who comes to a bar to sit down? The music is too loud to have conver-sations anyway. They do have a dancefloor where you can come away with a head injury if you are not careful. If you’re in any way squeamish avoid the toilets - let’s just say they’re not the cleanest we’ve ever seen... QOpen 20:00 - 06:00. Admission free, face control. PJX

Fish Fabrique Nouvelle D-3, Ligovsky pr. 53 (Pushkins-kaya 10 Arts Centre), MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 764 48 57, www.fishfabrique.spb.ru. A diverse and interesting crowd congregates at this dark and grungy single-room club - perhaps because it’s at the entrance of the city’s largest ‘working and living’ centre for artists. Fishka is one of the more intimate live-music venues in the city and on a busy night, it has a positively bubbling atmosphere, although you’ll be pressed for a place to sit. On quieter nights, it’s a relaxed place to listen to music, or try your hand at table soccer. Live concerts usu-ally Thu, Fri, Sat, starts 21:30 - 22:00. QOpen 15:00 - 06:00. Admission for concerts 100-300Rbl. PEBXW

Folks C-3, Ul. Lomonosova 1, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 921 78 05, www.atelierbar.ru. Beloved of the local student crowd, this three level rough edged house has a bit of squat feel to it, especially when you add in drinks served in plastic cups, occasional ‘art’ exhibitions and an erratic door policy that ranges from face control to free-for-all. The DJ sets can often be good here, but it’s impossible to know if on the night you arrive it will be a Jamaican ragga party or minimal techno rave. If you’re older than 20 you may feel a bit like a pensioner here, but as they say ‘young at heart’… QOpen 19:00 - 06:00. Closed Mon. Admission free. Fri, Sat 100Rbl. EW

Mesto svobodno? = Is this seat free?


43NIGHTLIFE

Kitaisky Lyotchik Dzao Da D-2, Ul. Pestelya 7A, MCherny-shevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 273 74 87, spb.jao-da.com. Kitaisky Lotchik or Chinese Pilot, is a newly opened brother establishment of the long-loved Moscow Club of the same name. The emphasis here is towards live music and cheap but filling food. Unfortunately the place is not massively well promoted so there is still no regular crowd and the place feels very empty. On the plus side that of course means you’ll always be able to get a seat and the concerts feel more, ahem, intimate. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. Admission free. Concerts start at 20:00, admission 100-400Rbl. PEBW

Mishka Bar D-3, Nab. reky Fontanka 40, MGostiny Dvor, tel. (+7) 921 751 54 93, www.mishkabar.ru. Named after the youtube celebrity, Mishka the talking husky, this tiny basement bar is well done up in grey with pink ac-cents. All the hipsters are here, with their oversized glasses and handmade accessories. They’re smoking Belomorkanals ironically and tapping their feet to the DJ who’s sharing space with the friendly bartenders. As a bonus, the toilet rules are interestingly translated - who flushes their wallet down the bowl? QOpen 18:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 06:00. PSW

Pirogi D-3, Nab. reky Fontanky 40, MGostiny Dvor, tel. (+7) 812 275 35 58, www.piterogi.ru. This bustling cafe-bar is one part bookshop, one part student hangout leaving the rest of the ample space for those people in the city who liked a relaxed atmosphere and fairly priced beer. The cute chequered tablecloths give Pirogi (meaning pies) its laid back cafe vibe, while the indie music and late open hours keep it in the bar bracket too. Nothing rowdy ever kicks off here, this is more the place for long chats over budget beer and pies and games of Jenga stretching off into the early hours. Q Open 24hrs. PAESW

Stirka C-2, Ul. Kazanskaya 26, MSennaya, tel. (+7) 812 314 53 71, www.40gradusov.ru. A small, alterna-tive and unique hang-out; Stirka has a good sound system, old sofa’s and small bar serving cold and hot drinks and snacks. Water-smoking pipes available. You can wash your clothes in the back room laundry machines and sup a beer while you watch them spin - all in a smoke-free environment. Terrace seating for the those who need a puff or just want to hang out in the (semi-)fresh air. Q Open 10:00 - 01:00. Laundry services available (5kg clothes for 150Rbl). PENGXW

Tsokol D/E-3, Ul. 3-ya Sovetskaya 2/3, MPl. Voss-taniya, tel. (+7) 812 274 94 67, www.zoccolo.ru. If you want to hear some local live music, Tsokol is a good place to head for as they hold concerts seven days a week. The music can be anything from punk to jazz, although the main focus is on rock groups. The audience is accordingly motley and scruffy looking and yes it’s smoky and shabby looking, but that’s what underground is about, right? On weekends they tend towards techno and trance DJ-sets after the gigs to keep the crowd moving until early morning. Q Open 12:00 - 00:00. Concerts start at 20:30. ENXW

Russians are famous for their depth of dusha (soul) and love of vodka. Typically when these two things come together we get the tost (toast). Toasting is just as com-plex as anything else in Russia and so a straightforward ‘cheers!’ or na zdaroviye! (to health!) is far too simple and in fact Russian people will tell you that they never, ever say na zdaroviye. In Russia every toast should be different. Traditionally the first drink is for the reason for the celebra-tion, for example S Novim Godom (Happy New Year) or s dnyom razhdeniya (happy birthday). This is followed by a very short break - mezhdu pyervy i vtoroy pererifchik ne bolshoy (literally meaning ‘between the first and the second there’s a not very big break’) and then another shot. The next toast is often something like to parents ‘za roditeli’ or other family members. The third drink should be for love ‘za lyubov’ and should be drunk with the left hand (the left hand is closer to the heart). At some point you should also of course make a toast to your meeting ‘za vstrechu’ and then one for friends ‘za druzhbu’. After that people are usually too drunk to remember much and start making their own toasts - the best ones tend to be long, witty and eloquent and include a famous quote. And don’t forget even if you don’t understand a word of it, you can only drink up when a toast is finished. At some point during the evening, people will start to become too drunk and unable to toast anymore and may decide to go home. This is time to suggest a toast such as ‘pososhok’ which comes for the word for walking stick, indicating this last one’s for the road. Another popular ex-iting toast is ‘na khod nogi’ basically meaning ‘that ones legs will hold up’. It is generally considered a little rude to utter these toasts too early during the night as after the ‘leaving’ toast has been made, it will be accepted as the last and it would be very rude to drink after it. And if your Russian is really suffering after all that vodka a simple toast to get you through can always be ‘budem’, meaning very simply and inelegantly ‘let’s drink’.

Russian Toasts

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44 NIGHTLIFE

ClubsAkakao D-2, Nab. kan. Griboedova 7 (entrance via courtyard), MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 703 81 20/(+7) 905 203 81 20, www.akakao.ru. Marketed as a ‘closed’ club, it is actually still possible to get in here fairly easily even if you don’t have the ‘parol’ (password), just dress smartly and hand them 200Rbl. The barn like space is filled with Soviet memorabilia, although the clientele may not be quite old enough to fully remember Lenin and co. The music gives the impression of a school disco twisting between Michael Jackson and the Prodigy and the way the girls are dressed and dancing you may remember why you liked school discos in the first place. Cocktails are order of the day and for non-smokers there’s actually a smoke free chill-out area. Silly and fun with seriously good live concerts on Thursdays. Q Open 18:00 - 06:00, Mon, Tue 18:00 - 03:00. Face control. PLEW

Begemot D-2, Ul. Sadovaya 12, MGostiny dvor, tel. (+7) 812 925 40 00, www.bar-begemot.ru. In case the cute statues of fat hippos don’t give it away - Begemot is the Russian word for hippo. The statues are thankfully as far as the theme gets though and inside this place is a real stylish lesson in how to make new things look old and fashionably lived in. The bar area with its eclectic abundance of lights plays incredibly loud house music, but the darker library area in the back is worse as every now and then a door opens leading to a very loud and annoying karaoke room. As currently one of the favourite places of the city’s gliteratti, the menu centres around expensive, albeit very good, cocktails and wines. If you like glamour, you’ll have fun here. QOpen 12:00 - 06:00. PALVESW

Coyote Ugly D-3, Pr. Liteyny 57, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 272 07 90, www.coyoteugly.ru. Part of the international chain that spawned the film of the same name, this place thrives on booze, bar dancing and girl power. They’ve got the requisite Americana on the walls, including license plates and pop icon portraits, but the bar itself is the primary visual focus. When the professionals get up to dance, the go-going is amazing - less so the attention-seeking amateurs. The soundtrack is middle-of-the-road rock, the drinks are overpriced and the crowd is encouraged to drink and be merry by a bull-horn wielding barmaid. QOpen 20:00 - 06:00. PAW

Fever D-2, VO, Kadetskaya Liniya 19, MVasileostrovs-kaya, tel. (+7) 812 971 18 88. With the black glitter wallpaper, red plastic chandeliers and filagree curlicues decorating every available surface, this karaoke bar is more than a bit gothic Barbie. From the drinks menu to the 500Rbl songs everything in the joint in fact screams spending money is being glamourous. That being said, the sound system is quality, the stage is front and centre without being obstrusive and the song list is truly stag-gering in it’s length and breadth. Friendly, professional staff is a bonus and the couches offered an uber plush vantage point from which to view the enthusiastic, if less than talented, take to the mike. Q Open Tue - Thu 18:00 - 06:00, Fri - Sun 17:00-06:00. Closed Mon Admission free. PALEW

Privet = Hi


45NIGHTLIFE

Griboedov C-3, Ul. Voronezhskaya 2a, MLigovsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 764 43 55, www.griboedovclub.ru. This literally ‘underground’ club is located in a bomb shelter and is definitely worth a look. The vodka is cheap, the crowd cool and the atmosphere intimate but laid-back. Griboedov has a good habit of booking alternative bands and a diverse range of DJs like during Happy on Mondays new electronic music nights. The cafe Griboedov Hill is upstairs and has regular parties on Saturdays (Sketch Show - hip-hop, break beat roots and reg gae) and Mondays (jazz concerts and jazz-hop/deep funk DJS). Come hungry and early, as the tables fill up quickly at the weekend and the food is excellent, especially for the price. Q Open 12:00 - 06:00. Sat, Sun 13:00 - 10:00. PAILEBXSW

Mod club D-2, Nab. kan. Griboedova 7 (in the yard), MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 712 07 34, modclub.info. They’ve made great use of the space here, with an intimate DJ bar for the stool-warming set adjacent to a large bi-level stage area where you can see some up-and-coming rock groups. For those who’ve been in town awhile, you never know who you’ll bump into here on the packed weekends. Only the queue for coat check on your way in could be cause for complaint. Otherwise, it’s a great place to drink, dance, be merry and find a friend. Just be aware as the hour progresses, often quicker than you think, the crowd tends to get more than a little drunk and often more than a little rowdy, too. QOpen 18:00 - 06:00. PEB

Nebar D-3, Liteiny pr. 57, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 995 05 05, www.nebar.ru. A prime central location, just up a block from Nevsky, this compact, two-storey bar oozes with upper income gents and the ladies who love them. Once past face control at the bar, there’s another vip option upstairs that’s ideal for surveying the crowd/newcomers over your hookah and cocktails. Barmen are professional mixers who like to show off their dance moves and bottle tossing abilities, though they do tone it down and speed it up when the place gets busy. This is definitely designer dress territory so if you don’t look the part, speak English - it might get you through. Q Open Fri - Sat: 22:00 - 06:00 Free admission if you pass face control. PA

Radiobaby C-2, Ul. Kazanskaya 7, MNevsky pr., www.radiobaby.com. With its high ceilings and groovy modern décor, Radiobaby has been cleverly divided with the dance floor, bar and chill-out room all flowing into one another so you can rock, drink and relax all in one place. The crowd is a diverse mix of hipsters and the old-guard and the DJs are local favorites who know how to keep the energy up. The no house, no techno rule is in effect. Entrance is through the archway and to the left. QOpen 18:00 - 06:00. PEXW

Jazz and BluesJazz Philharmony C-3, Zagorodny pr. 27, MVladi-mirskaya, tel. (+7) 812 764 85 65, www.jazz-hall.spb.ru. While it can’t really be called a cafe, ‘the Church of Jazz,’ as this venue is known, is a bit of legend in St. Petersburg. The large hall, reminiscent of a 1940s jazz club, has a stage, balconies and comfortable tables. The Jazz Philharmony has all manner of acts. The performances are usually of a high-standard, and it’s not unusual to see the club’s eccentric director stand up and jam on his violin with the musicians of the day. The Museum of Petersburg Jazz is on the second floor. Q Admission 300 - 800Rbl, students 50% discount. EK

Striptease is big business in Russia. Russians have made from poledancing not only an erotic but also an acrobatic act. If you want to admire attractive ladies and enjoy professionally choreographed dances there’s more than enough good places to visit in St. Petersburg. Extras like a lap dance, dance in a private room or a special request such as a lesbi-dance, shower shows, retro themed strip or whatever else floats your boat are available and they will try their best to accomodate your wildest desires. At the following glamorous clubs the girls come in all shapes and colours, meaning there’s something for everyone.Maximus C-2, Kirpichny per. 8, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 312 05 88, www.maximus-club.ru. QOpen 19:00 - 18:00.Seven Rooms D/C-2, Ul. Sadovaya 11, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571 83 84, www.sevenrooms.ru. QOpen 21:00 - 06:00.Tutsi Nab. Leitenanta Shmidta 17, MVasileostrovs-kaya, tel. (+7) 812 320 72 36, www.tutsibar.ru. QOpen 21:00 - 06:00.

Gentlemen‘s Clubs

JFC Jazz Club E-2, Ul. Shpalernaya 33, MChernyshevs-kaya, tel. (+7) 812 272 98 50, www.jfc-club.spb.ru. It’s hard to believe that this intimate, little club can hold more than 100 people. It has a stage, a handful of tables and standing space around the bar, for the people who forget to book a table. It’s popular with the city’s artsy scene and with people who know their jazz. It has original performances by top-notch musicians playing just about anything from experimental jazz, to acid jazz to blues. QOpen 19:00 - 23:00. PUEW

Jimi Hendrix Blues Club D-3, Liteiny pr. 33, MMayakovs-kaya, tel. (+7) 812 579 88 13, www.hendrix-club.ru. Rus-sian blues stars play songs with their soul and other instruments on a small stage in this intimate cellar. Here it feels as though Jimmy Hendrix is still alive - if he is, he’s probably a frequent visi-tor! The kitchen serves excellent Russian and Georgian food. If you wonder why it takes so long before you get your order: it’s all made fresh. We recommend booking a table in advance, the joint is always packed. QOpen 11:00 - 00:00. PAEX

Gay and lesbianBlue Oyster C-2, Ul. Lomonosova 1, MGostiny Dvor, tel. (+7) 921 332 51 61, www.boyster.ru. This self-proclaimed ‘trash bar’ is a blast whether your looking for love, sex, dating or a good pre-, after- or just party-party. Located close to Central Station it attracts a fun, unpreten-tious crowd. The music is poptastic, the drinks are affordable and entrance is always free. What more could you ask for? When it gets too crowded, though, ladies may be asked to be accompanied by no less than two male escorts. For protection? Look for the steel door with the number 69 on it. QOpen 18:00 - 06:00.

Central Station C-2, Ul. Lomonosova 1/28, MGostiny Dvor, tel. (+7) 812 312 36 00, www.centralstation.ru. With deep red walls, flickering candles, mellow jazz music and male nude pictures, the downstairs Japanese-European bar-restaurant of Central Station is reminiscent of a French boudoir. A grand, dark staircase connects to the seven up-stairs bars and dance floors, where video monitors and drag queens are seen at every turn. With Euro dance music and live electronic events played and comfy sofas and dark rooms scattered throughout, the club offers a diverse experience. QOpen 22:00 - 06:00. PAEKX


46 SIGHTSEEING

Churches (orthodox)Aleksander Nevsky Monastery E-4, Nab. reky Mona-stirky 1, MPl. Aleksandra Nevskogo, tel. (+7) 812 274 17 02, www.lavra.spb.ru. Founded by Peter the Great, in 1710, this orthodox monastery is the most important in St. Petersburg. The St. Trinity cathedral is worth a visit and so is the cemetery, where you can visit the graves of Russia’s greatest composers and writers, including Tchaikovsky, Mus-sorgsky, Glinka and Dostoevsky. You can buy fresh holy bread in the monastery’s bakery in the afternoon (on your left as you approach the Trinity cathedral from the entrance). Q Open daily 06:00 - 20:00. Monastery 06:00-20:00. Daily services at the Trinity Cathedral 07:00, 10:00, 17:00. Necropolis 09:30 - 17:30.

Church of the Saviour on the Spilt Blood D-2, Nab. kan. Griboedova 2b, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 315 16 36, www.cathedral.ru. This Moscow-style church with richly coloured onion domes looks a bit out of place in the European centre of St. Petersburg, but it’s one of the city’s most beautiful and memorable landmarks. It got its awkward name because it was built on the spot where Tsar Alexander II was murdered in 1881. Locals call it ‘the mosaic church’ because the interior is covered with magnificent mosaics, each wall with a particular Biblical theme. It was renovated in the early 1990s and reopened as a museum in 1997. Q Open 10:00 - 19:00 Closed Wed. Admission 50-250Rbl.

Kazan Cathedral C-2, Kazanskaya pl. 2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 314 46 63, www.kazansky-spb.ru. This cathedral, which was modelled on St. Peter’s in Rome, is one of the city’s most majestic. It was built from 1801 to 1811 to house the miracle-working Icon Our Lady of Kazan. The dome is 80-metres high and the colonnade facing Nevsky has 96 columns. Be warned, it’s a quiet place and they don’t like you to talk a lot in here, it’s place of prayer and contemplation. QOpen 08:30 - 20:00. Daily services 07:00, 10:00 and 18:00. Admission to the church is free. Guided tours should be booked in advance by phone (+7) 812 570 45 28.

Smolny Cathedral F-3, Pl. Rastrelli 3, MChernyshevs-kaya, tel. (+7) 812 710 31 59, www.cathedral.ru. The view over the city from this blue baroque cathedral is worth the climb to the top of one of the bell-towers. Smolny, once the centre-piece of a convent founded to educate young noblemen and women, is nowadays a concert and exhibition hall with an exhibition of Smolny’s history on display. From the nearby neo-classical Smolny Insti tute, Lenin orchestrated the October Revolution in 1917. Q Open 10:00 - 19:00 Bell-tower 10:00 - 19:00 Closed Wed. Admission 100-210Rbl, concer ts 100-600Rbl. Bell-tower 100Rbl.

St. Isaac’s Cathedral C-2, Isaakievskaya pl. 4, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 315 97 32, www.cathedral.ru. Fully restored inside and out, St. Isaac’s is one of the world’s largest and most ornate cathedrals. The interior is adorned with gold trim, mosaics and paintings. Designed by Auguste de Montferrand and built between 1818 and 1858 the church was named in tribute to Peter the Great who was born on the day of St. Isaac of Dalma-tia. I f i t is a clear day we recommend climbing to the dome’s top; the panoramic view is abso-lutely wor th the effor t. Q Open 10:00 - 22:30. Closed Wed. Colonnade open 10:00 - 18:00. Tick-ets for the cathedral and the colonnade are sold separatel y. Admission Cathedral 250-350Rbl. Colonnade 150-300Rbl. Audioguide 100Rbl.

When entering an Orthodox church, always remember to dress conservatively - that means absolutely no shorts, short skirts, low cut tops, or sleeveless shirts. As you enter men should remove any headwear, whereas women should cover their heads. Usually at the entrance there will be a box of headscarves that you can borrow if you don’t have your own. In Orthodox churches there are no chairs as when you meet with God you should be humble and standing. The very old and infirm may be allowed to sit for some time, but someone who is young or fit should never try to take a seat. If there is no service most believers will head for the icons, leaving a candle in front of it (representative of their prayer) and kissing the hands or face of the icon. During an Orthodox service, the priest (who should be addressed as batushka) will usually lead the congregation through a long session of prayer - which will sound like a long and mournful song. He will then circle the church spreading incense (representative of the sweetness of prayer), before returning back behind the iconostasis.

Religion


47SIGHTSEEING

St. Nicholas Cathedral B-2, Nikolskaya pl. 1/3, MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 714 70 85, www.nikolski-ysobor.ru. Built between 1753 and 1762, this blue and white cathedral is one of St. Petersburg’s most beautiful. In the 18th century, this part of town was the sailors’ quarter, which is why the cathedral was named after Nicholas - the patron saint of sailors, and why locals sometimes call it ‘the sailor’s church.’ The two-storey Baroque building has low ceilings and a warm and inviting interior. At the church gates on the Kryukov canal, there is an impressive four-story bell tower. Q Open 06:30 - 19:30. Daily services 07:00, 10:00, 18:00.

Lyrical CityAnna Akhmatova Museum D-3, Liteiny pr. 53, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 579 72 39, www.akhmatova.spb.ru. In this former palace you can visit the flat where Russia’s greatest poetess lived for almost 30 years. Ten rooms chronologically represent ten eras. Photographs and artefacts from Akhmatova’s hard and fascinating life are on display; books of her poetry that never left the printing house and letters from her imprisoned lover. The museum also hosts tem-porary exhibitions of other ar tists. Audio-guides in En gl ish, German and French; free texts in Eng-lish in the rooms. Q Open 10:30 - 18:30, Wed 13:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. Ad-mission 60-200Rbl. Ad-mission to the garden of the Fountain House free. Audioguide 100Rbl.

F. M. Dostoevsky Literary-Memorial Museum D-3, Kuzhnechny per. 5/2, MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 812 571 40 31, www.md.spb.ru. Dostoevsky’s weathered corner-apartment is a two minute walk from the metro. The museum is divided into two sections: literary and memorial (his apartment and belongings). The audio-guide will enrich the experience and lessen confusion. Displays include newspaper articles that inspired him and photographs of the house where The Broth-ers Karamazov story is set. Also gives fascinat-ing biographical details about his arrest and exile. Whether you are inter-ested in Dostoevsky’s brave character, turbulent life, or amazing work, this museum is certainly the premium place to go. On weekends contact tel. (+7) 921 977 43 00. Q Open 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon and on public holidays. Admission 70-150Rbl. Audioguide 100-170Rbl. Guided tours for up to 20 people 1,550Rbl per group, should be booked in advance by phone (+7) 812 571 40 31.

Nabokov Museum C-2, Ul. Bolshaya Morskaya 47, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 315 47 13, www.nabokov-museum.org. World-famous novelist Nabokov (born in 1899) lived here with his family until he emigrated to Europe before settling in the U.S. This quaint museum describes the life, fam-ily and work of the man behind Lolita. Q Open 11:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission free.

State Hermitage Museum C/D-2, Dvortsovaya nab. 34 (entrance from Dvortsovaya pl.), MAdmi-ralteyskaya., tel. (+7) 812 710 90 79, www.hermit-agemuseum.org. The director of the Hermitage once said, “I can’t say that the Hermitage is the number one museum in the world, but it’s certainly not the second.” And with over three million works of art and treasures housed in five connected buildings along the Neva, the museum can’t fail to impress. Give yourself plenty of time and try to go on a weekday to avoid the crowds or even take a virtual tour. Four hours is probably an absolute minimum of time to spend there if you want to see the main state rooms and some of the most popular artworks. The museum’s art collection covers all of the greatest European movements. Lovers of the renaissance shouldn’t miss the Da Vincis, Canalettos, Michaelangelos and Raphaels of the Italian rooms. The Rembrandt room filled with works by the old master is another must as are the nearby El Grecos. The great impressionists like Gaugin, Van Gogh, Degas, Matisse, Picasso and the gang are all up on the top floor where there is also a very large selection of Oriental and Middle Eastern art.QOpen 10:30 - 18:00, Sun 10:30 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission 0-400Rbl. Free admission international and Russian children and students. Audioguide 250-350Rbl. First Thu of the month FREE admission for ALL visitors. Tour booking (+7) 812 571 84 46. AUK

The world’s greatest Museum?


48 SIGHTSEEING

Nekrasov Apartment Museum D-3, Liteiny pr. 36, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 272 01 65, www.mu-seumpushkin.ru. Both the last abode of Nekrasov and the headquarters of the nighteenth century journal, Sovremennik ‘The Contemporary’, this museum is charming. Tolstoy, Dos-toevsky and Turgenev used to write for the Sovremennik, and held discussions here. Apart from his poetry, Nekrasov was famous for campaigning for the emancipation of women and the serfs, much to the chagrin of the Tsar’s censors. Revealing Nekrasov’s life story through portraits and manuscripts, there are also a great many stuffed animals, illustrating Nekrasov’s great love of hunting. One raggedy old bear is over two metres tall. Information is in Russian, however, you can purchase a booklet with English, French, German and Finnish translations from the ticket office. Q Open 10:30 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue and last Fri of the month. Admission (includes excursion) 100-200Rbl.

Pushkin Apartment Museum D-2, Nab. reky Moiky 12, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571 35 31, www.muse-umpushkin.ru. Through the old oak doors you enter a tranquil courtyard, surrounded by 18th century buildings, to find a statue of Alexander Pushkin, strewn with fresh flowers. This is the place where he lived and where he died after his tragic duel. Pushkin’s legacy is well captured; learn about his inspirations, life and character. His death-mask displayed in a glass case is certainly something to see, as is his beautiful library of over 2000 books. Q Open 10:30 - 17:00. Closed Tue, last Fri of the month. Admission 100Rbl, Audioguide 100Rbl. Guided tours up to 20 people 4,000Rbl per group.

Modern Art Centres and GalleriesErarta, Museum and Galleries of Contemporary Art B-1, VO, 29-ya linya, 2, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 324 08 09, www.erarta.com. The newly opened Erarta museum is the biggest non-governmental contempo-rary museum in Russia and definitely one of its most exciting. The spectacularly restored five story building is separated into two parts - one a gallery where the works are for sale and the other a museum tracing the history of Russian modern art of the last 60 years. Some of the works and installations on display are truly monumental in size and will leave anyone interested in new Russian art swooning. The passionate curators are constantly updating their collection by travelling across Russia to find unknown future stars and track down old favourites from all periods and streams of the Russian contemporary movement. Currently they have around 2000 works so make sure you give yourself some time. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. Closed Tue. Admission 300Rbl. Guided tours in English for up to 25 people 3,000Rbl per group by prior arrangement. Audioguide 100Rbl. PAUKW

Please note that museum ticket offices (kassy) in Saint Petersburg usually close one hour before official museum closing times. Also bear in mind that most museums charge extra for photography and video.

Buying Tickets

Marble Palace D-2, Ul. Millionnaya 5/1, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 312 91 96, www.rusmuseum.ru. During Soviet times, this museum of foreign art was called the Lenin Museum. It has a decent collection, which includes works by Andy Warhol, Roy Lichtenstein and even Picasso. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Mon 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Tue. Admission 150-300Rbl.

Mikhailovsky Castle D-2, Ul. Sadovaya 2, MGosti-ny Dvor, tel. (+7) 812 570 51 12, www.rusmuseum.ru. The palace, with its canals and secret underground passageway, was built to protect Tsar Paul I, who was petrified of being murdered. Ironically, 40 days after he moved in, he was assassinated in a military plot. A few years later, it became a school for engineers, and today, it’s a branch of the Russian Museum. It has a portrait gal-lery of Russian public figures, temporary exhibitions and occasionally plays and lectures. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Mon 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Tue. Admission 150-350Rbl. All inclusive ticket 300 - 600Rbl.

Russian Museum - Mikhailovsky Palace D-2, Ul. Inzhenernaya 4/2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 595 42 48, www.rusmuseum.ru. A dazzling journey from thirteenth century icons to the cream of Russian avant-garde, the Russian Museum is housed in various buildings and palaces. With a maze of beautifully decorated rooms, the main Mikhailovsky Palace is a delight for art-lovers, whatever their favoured genre. It is widely acclaimed for containing the most outstanding collection of icons from ancient Rus. The Benois Wing has an especially strong display of work from the turn of the twentieth century. Tickets can include entrance to the Stroganov Palace, Marble Palace and Mikhailovsky Castle which host temporary exhibitions. QOpen 1 0 : 0 0 - 1 8 : 0 0 , Mon 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Tue. Admis-sion 150-350Rbl. All inclusive ticket 300-600Rbl. U

Stroganov Palace С-2, Nevsky pr. 17, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571 82 38, www.rusmuseum.ru. The Stroganovs were one of St. Petersburg’s richest and most-powerful families during the 18th century. Their pal-ace, which is now a branch of the Russian Museum, was designed by Rastrelli and was built between 1752 and 1754. It has only recently been restored and it houses various temporary exhibitions. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Mon 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Tue. Admission 150-350Rbl. All inclusive ticket 300 - 600Rbl.

Russian Museum


49SIGHTSEEING

Loft Project Etagi D-3, Ligovsky pr. 74, MLigovsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 458 50 05, www.loftprojectetagi.ru. This five-floored building used to be a bakery factory in the past, but now instead of breads it’s art pieces that come in and out the door. With two main galleries, exhibition rooms, a bookstore, clothes shops and cafe, Etagi works more as an art center than a gallery. A New York atmosphere is provided by the high ceilings, the wooden floors and uncovered pipes along the concrete walls, but St Peters-burg artists occupy the main branch of the exhibitions, that usually are for free. Film festivals, kids workshops and even pet adoption fairs are held in Etagi, which is the pioneer gallery with a loft style in the city. Q Open daily 12:00 - 22:00. Green room restaurant 09:00 - 24:00. Admission 0-200Rbl. TNBK

Novy musey C-2, VO, 6-ya liniya, 29, MVasileostrovs-kaya, tel. (+7) 906 279 73 58, www.novymuseum.ru. A fascinating journey through non-conformist art of the later Soviet period and beyond into the present day. The building itself gives little away about the wealth of wild, wacky thought-provoking and historically significant art inside. Ranging from ironic pop culture references, haunting photography, huge abstract paintings and witty modern satire, the museum’s collection proves how Russian art survived through the Soviet oppression and is now thriving again with all the avant-garde energy and enthusiasm as a century ago. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission 100-200Rbl. Guided tours in English for groups (1-30 people) 800Rbl per group.

The State Russian Centre of Photography (ROS-PHOTO) C-2, Ul. Bolshaya Morskaya 35, MAdmiraltey-skaya., tel. (+7) 812 314 12 14, www.rosphoto.org. Tucked away off the street, the National Centre of Photogra-phy is an unexpected treat. Exhibiting works from international as well as local artists, the gallery aims to open the eyes of the traditional-art loving city to the importance of photography. The exhibi-tion space is not huge but is well organised and explained. Don’t forget to visit their amazing shop. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00. Admission 100Rbl.

MuseumsHouse of Peter the Great D-2, Petrovskaya nab. 6, MGorkovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 232 45 76, www.rus-museum.ru. When Peter the Great arrived to supervise the construction of the Peter and Paul Fortress and his new city, he needed a place to stay. So, in three days (reputedly) they built him this modest little cabin where he lived for the next six years. There are some exhibits of Pe-ter’s things inside, and the stone house around it was build by Catherine II. Q Open 10:00 - 18:00. M on 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Tue and last Mon of the month. Admission 70-200Rbl.

Kunstkamera (Peter the Great Museum of An-thropology and Ethnography) C-2, Universitetskaya nab. 3, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 328 14 12, www.kunstkamera.ru. St. Petersburg’s oldest museum is also its strangest. Kunstkamera (which translates as art house) was founded by Peter the Great in 1714. It is also known as the Peter the Great Museum of Anthropology and Ethnography. It has anthropological and ethnographic collections on the cultures of people around the world as well as an eclectic mix of random items that Peter and Russian explorers collected on their worldly travels. Peter’s Anatomical Collection with its severed hands and malformed babies in jars still draws the crowds. Q Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon and last Tue of every month. Admission 150-250Rbl.

Menshikov Palace C-2, VO, Universitetskaya nab. 15, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 323 11 12, www.hermitage.ru. Peter the Great built this palace for the first Governor-General of St. Petersburg Alexander Menshikov. It’s now a branch of the Hermitage, and the beautifully decorated rooms display early 18th century art, as well as some of Pe-ter’s work-tools. QOpen 10:30 - 18:00, Sun 10:30 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission foreigners 0-60Rbl.

Central Park of Culture and Leisure (TsPKIO) D-1, Elagin Island, MKrestovsky ostrov, tel. (+7) 812 430 09 11, www.elaginpark.spb.ru. A makeshift out-door rink based on one of the ponds of this pretty island. The ice not incredibly smooth and it can get crowded, but the atmosphere is fun and festive and the location, under the trees and with the delightful Yelagin Palace in the distance, is lovely.

Victory Park (Moskovsky Park Pobedy) Ul. Ku-zhnetsovskaya, building 25, MPark Pobedy, tel. (+7) 812 388 32 49. Large outdoor skating rink set deep in the large Victory Park. It’s not as crowded as the city’s other outdoor skating rink, but still draws a lively crowd who are either skating romantically hand in hand or racing around practicing their ice-hockey moves.

Ice skating


50 SIGHTSEEING

Museum of Music in the Sheremetev Palace D-3, Nab. reky Fontanky 34, MGostiny Dvor, tel. (+7) 812 272 44 41, www.theatremuseum.ru. The wealthy Sheremetyev family lived in this palace until the 1917 revolu-tion. Also known as the Fountain house, because of the large quantity of them in the garden. These days, the palace has a permanent display of the Sheremetyev’s private art collec-tion, and it is home to the Museum of Musical Life. Although not the most lively joint, musicians and fans of musical history will certainly appreciate this museum. It showcases an exten-sive collection of Russian and European musical instruments, some from as early as the 17th century. Upstairs you will find a series of elaborate rooms with other intriguing musical history, some of which is in English. Q Open 12:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon, Tue and last Wed of the month. Admission 20-220Rbl.

Museum of the History of Religion C- 2, Ul. Pochtamtskaya 14, MAdmiralteyskaya, tel. (+7) 812 314 58 38, www.gmir.ru. This exhibition used to be in the former Atheism Museum which was housed in Kazan cathedral. Exhibitions showing the beliefs, gods and objects from Northern Siberian pagan tribes, the Ancient Greeks, Egypt and Israel can be found here (complete with English notes) as well as a huge exhibiton outlining the long history of the Russian Orthodox Church as well as a new section on Buddhism. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Wed. Admission 0-120Rbl.

Museum of the Political History of Russia D-2, Ul. Kuybysheva 2-4, MGorkovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 233 70 52, www.polithistory.ru. One part of this museum is housed in Kshesinskaya house, the former home of Matilda Kshesinsksya, a famous ballerina and the lover of Tsar Nicolas II before his marriage. The House was Bolshevik headquarters for a short period in 1917 and Lenin’s office has been recre-ated. The huge exhibition detailing the socialist revolution and its results is particularly fascinating and overall there are more than 1000 exhibits documenting the whole of the Soviet period. Remnants of collectivization, reconstructions of houses from 1930-50, excerpts from films, posters and much more, demonstrate the struggle for survival by everyday people. There are sections devoted to GULAG prisoners with unique documents concerning dissident arrest and heart-breaking handmade items from political prisoners. All exhibitions have a lot of information in English. More informative than any history lesson we have ex-perienced. Q Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Thu and last Mon of the month. Admission 100-200Rbl. Guided tours for groups (1-5 p e opl e) 700Rbl per group, (6-20people) 1,300Rbl per group.

The banya is the Russian version of the sauna. For some, it is a social event, to be enjoyed with friends and much drinking. For others, including some of the city’s communal-flat residents who don’t have showers at home, this is the normal way to wash. For this reason, banyas come in all shapes and sizes. Communal banyas have large rooms with showers, hot rooms and places to chill out and get dressed. Banyas usually have male and female sections, or alternate between men and women’s days. Private banyas are when you get a group of friends to-gether and split the cost of a small banya between you. This can be a lot of fun. Don’t forget to pick up some birch leaves, on the way, to beat yourself and your friends with.

Degtyarnaya Banya E-3, ul. Degtyarnaya 1, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 969 53 15, www.d1a.ru. Heaven. There’s just no other way to describe the experi-ence of having a banya here. Tucked away in this seem-ingly unremarkable building are multiple floors offering everything one could possibly need for a relaxing retreat. Men’s and women’s wings are complete with a traditional Russian banyas, Turkish steam rooms, rain showers and swimming pools. There are also massage therapists and salon treatments available, as well as cafés offering fresh juices, full meals, herbal teas and adult beverages. The family room is an ideal option for a private occasion, with all of the luxury essentials, including a powerful hydro-massage Jacuzzi. VIP rooms are fit for an emperor or oligarch and can even be catered by the adjacent and above reproach Italian restaurant, Gusto. And as if the facilities weren’t enough, the whole complex has a homely atmosphere with staff and clients alike greeting you like family. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. AKazachie bani C-3, Bolshoy Kazachy per. 11, MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7) 812 315 07 34, www.kazbani.ru. Kazachie has a common and a private lux banya for up to 10 people. The whole place works in the old-school way - nudity only - strictly no underwear all-lowed and no-one speaks English, but it is a real Russian experience, especially when the old regulars cover you in honey and start beating the hell out of you with branches. This is one of the oldest banyas in the city - over 130 years old. You can’t get any more authentic than that! Q Open 24hrs.Kruglie bani Ul. Karbysheva 29a, MPl. Muzhestva, tel. (+7) 812 550 09 85. There has been a banya on or near this site since at least the late 19th century, and this was one of the very few banyas to remain open almost continuously during the Siege of Leningrad. The current circular building, from which the banya takes its name (kruglaya means “round”) dates from 1929. There are separate men’s and women’s banyas, with first- and second-class versions of each. The more upmarket first-class banyas downstairs have separate changing rooms (even if the actual steam-rooms haven’t changed much in decades - if it ain’t broke, why fix it?). Upstairs is more basic, but at 15 rubles for 90 minutes on discount Mondays, not many punters are going to be grumbling about the price, though you’d probably want to keep a close eye on your possessions. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00. Closed Wed, Thu. 20:30 last visitor

The Russian Banya


51SIGHTSEEING

Museum of the St. Petersburg Avant-garde (Matushin house) D-1, Ul. Professora Popova 10, MPetrogradskaya, tel. (+7) 812 347 68 98, www.spb-museum.ru. Avant-garde is a bit of an umbrella term for a host of various artistic movements active in the early twentieth century. This museum is primarily dedicated to the activities and impact of two protagonists, husband and wife, Mikhail Matyushin and Elena Guro. Located in Matyushin’s home, a beautifully restored timber 19th century house for which its worth making the trip to see, there is a really wonderful non-stiflling atmosphere here. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Tue 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Wed. Admission 60-90Rbl.

Peter and Paul Fortress (State Museum of history of St. Petersburg) D-2, Petropavlovskaya krepost 3, MGorkovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 230 64 31, www.spbmu-seum.ru. The Fortress is the cradle of the city; St Petersburg’s first settlement. Now a tourist complex, it houses the famous Cathedral of the Saint Apostles Peter and Paul, along with numer-ous museums, galleries and spectacular river-side views. The proudest offerings are the large Commandant’s House museum which examines the history of the city and the smaller, modern and fun museum at the Neva Curtain Wall which studies the his-tory of the Fortress itself. However, the more unusual Engineer’s House and Museum of Space Exploration are re-ally very quirky and good. The Mint displays coin collections and the Printing Workshop contains printing and ceramic relics. Visit the Neva Curtain Wall arch-way for the best view, and brave a dip in the bracing waters… at your own risk. Q The fortress is open 06:00 - 22:00. Museums open 11:00 - 18:00, Tue 11:00 - 17:00, closed Wed. Cathedral open 10:00 - 18:00, Tue 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00, closed Wed. Admiission to cathe-dral: 70-200Rbl. Entrance to fortress is free. All inclu-sive ticket 350Rbl for all museums. Guided tours 250Rbl. Audioguide 200-250Rbl. ULK

Museum Apartment of Isaac Brodsky D-2, Pl. Iskusstv 3, (the Pushkin statue points directly to the front door), MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 314 36 58, www.nimrah.ru/musbrod. If you find the Hermitage too over-whelming, head to this little museum in the former home and studio of painter Isaac Brodsky, where you can see his paint-ings and those of his con-temporaries. Don’t miss Brodsky’s huge Socialist Realist works like Red Funeral and Construc-tion of the Dniepr Dam on the second floor. Most of the furniture is original. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admis-sion 30-80Rbl, Excursion (300-1,000Rbl).

Rimsky-Korsakov Apar tment Museum C-3, Zagorodny pr. 28, MDostoevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 315 39 75, www.theatremuseum.ru. St Petersburg’s only museum dedicated to a composer is housed in the flat where Rimsky-Korsakov lived towards the end of his life and wrote 11 of his 15 operas. Three rooms have been restored to what they would have looked like in Rimsky-Korsakov’s day, and contain personal artefacts including the composer’s writing table and his piano (which some fortunate visitors are allowed to play). There are also some original manuscripts and other objects with connections to either Rimsky-Korsakov or other members of his exalted circle . The museum also runs a programme of regular concerts. Q Open 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue and last Friday of the month. Admission 15-100Rbl.

Shalyapin Apartment Museum D-1, Ul. Graftio 2b, MPetrogradskaya, tel. (+7) 812 234 10 56, www.thea-tremuseum.ru. This museum gives a beautifully rounded portrayal of Russia’s most famous opera singer. Three rooms of Fyodor Shalyapin’s former apartment have been recreated using the singer’s own furniture and works from his art collection, includ-ing the famous portrait by Boris Kustodiev. Other star exhibits include the famous costume that Sh-alyapin wore for his defini-tive portrayal of Tsar Boris Godunov in Musorgsky’s opera of the same name. Q Open 12:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue and last Friday of the month. Ad-mission 100Rbl.

Yusupov Palace C-2, Nab. reky Moiky 94, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 332 19 91, www.yusupov-palace.ru. This palace was purchased by the wealthy Yusupov family in 1830 to house their art collection and retains an aristocratic atmosphere. It also was the scene of the grisly murder of the sleazy Siberian peasant Rasputin, who was exercising too much influence over the royal family for Felix Yusupov’s liking. On the Rasputin tour you can see where Felix and his entourage tried to poison Rasputin in the cellar in 1916, before they beat him and chucked him into the Moika, where he finally died. Q Open 11:00 - 17:00. Group tours should be booked in advance by phone 314 88 93. Admission 500Rbl. Audioguide free, 1,000Rbl deposit.


52 SIGHTSEEING

Military MuseumsArtillery Museum D-2, PS, Aleksandrovsky park 7 (entrance from Kronverkskaya nab.), MGorkovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 232 02 96, www.artillery-museum.ru. If weapons are your thing, then you’ll enjoy having a look around this stockpile of old Russian and foreign military vehicles, dif-ferent pieces of artillery, as well as artillery armaments and ammunition, rifles, military- engineering equipment, banners, military uniforms and insignia numbering more that 850,000 items. The Museum also holds impressive collections of military related paintings, drawings and sculptures. Outside, big tanks and rocket-launchers are reminders of the military might of the former Soviet Union. Q Open 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue and last Thu of the month. Admission 150-300Rbl. Guided tours in English for groups (2 - 30 people) 1,250-5,700Rbl per group by prior arrangement. U

Central Naval Museum C-2, Birzhevaya pl. 4, MSport-ivnaya, tel. (+7) 812 328 25 02, www.navalmuseum.ru. Located in the former stock-exchange building, this museum shows the history of the Russian and Soviet Navy, from the time of Peter the Great until the present. Its exhibits include uniforms, flags and even a submarine complete with loaded torpedoes. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admis-sion 60 - 400Rbl, Russians 60-150Rbl. Photography 60Rbl, video 100Rbl.

Cruiser Avrora E-2, PS, Petrogradskaya nab., MGork-ovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 230 84 40, www.navalmuseum.ru. The battle ship, anchored off the banks of Petrograd Side, has become somewhat of a Soviet shrine. This is because blank shots fired from the Aurora are said to have been the trigger for the revolution of 1917. The ship was sunk during WWII, to protect it from German bombing, and, in 1958, it was made into a museum. It is operated by the Central Naval Museum. After the collapse of the Soviet Union, mysterious rumours have been spreading that it is, in fact, a replica. But who knows? Why not find out for yourself! Q Open 10:30 - 16:00. Closed Mon, Fri. This winter no individual tourists, just groups. 50-200Rbl.

Science MuseumsArctic and Antarctic Museum D-3, Ul. Marata 24a, MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 812 571 25 49, www.polar-museum.ru. The small building on the corner of Marata and Kuznechny streets is a gleaming and quirky palace-converted-museum. It is filled to the brim with maps of Arctic and Antarctic expeditions, ship models, photos, stuffed models of animals and artifacts. Above the displays hang a series of beautiful paintings of snowy landscapes, seascapes, and scenes of expedition sites and native wildlife. The first floor is dedicated to the Arctic while the upper level (up several hid-den flights of stairs at the entrance) is all about the Antarctic. Though the signs are in Russian, the quirky museum is worth a visit for anyone interested in the topic and seeing stuffed penguins, polar bears and walruses. The special treat is a dated but effective simulation of the northern lights. Q Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Tue, last Fri of the month. Admission 50-150Rbl.

A.S. Popov Central Museum of Communications C- 2, Pochtamtsky per. 4, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571 00 60, www.rustelecom-museum.ru. No human society can function without the exchange of information. Named after the Russian scientist and inventor Aleksander Stepanovich Popov, the Museum aims to inform about the history of innovations and inventions in the field of technology. It is one of the oldest museums of science and technology in the world but is distinctly contemporary in outlook, documenting for example, new achieve-ments in the fields of telecommunications. Its archives contain more than 8 million items. During working hours the following services are available: post office, research library, cafeteria, internet-cafe and souvenir shop. Q Open 10:30 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Sun, every last Thu of the month. Admission 100Rbl.

Icebreaker Krassin B-2, Nab. Leitenanta Shmidta 47 (23rd liniya), MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 325 35 47, www.krassin.ru/en. The Krassin (built in 1916) was the world’s first icebreaker and although it’s now simply a museum, back in the day it was highly respected around the world for tak-ing part in a number of daring rescue missions in and around the arctic region as well as leading several wartime convoys. A regular tour will take you around the living quarters, the navigation rooms (with a good display of old sextons) and the bridge where you can try out the communication equipment. Out on the deck the excellent guides will also explain to you the mystery of how ice-breakers actually work and how the crews managed to stay alive for months on end out in the arctic wilds. At weekends you can also go down and see the engine rooms. Also be sure to look out for the ship’s very own cat Kuzya, who was rescued from a passing ice-flow on the river and became a permanent member of the crew. Q Open 10:00 - 18:00, tours leave daily every hour from 11:00 - 17:00. Tours of the engine rooms and icebreaking equipment leave Sat and Sun at 13:00 and 15:00. Closed Mon, Tue, last Wed of the month. Admission 200Rbl, free first Wed of the month. Guided tours in English, German, French, Spanish, Italian (included in admission). Tour for groups (10-30 people) should be booked in advance.

Tours around St. PetersburgCity Tour Bus D-3, Pl. Ostrovskogo, MGostiny Dvor, tel. (+7) 812 718 47 69, www.citytourspb.ru. Tracing a route around the city’s most popular spots such as St. Isaac’s Square, Avrora, Peter and Paul Fortress, these hop-on, hop-off buses are a great way to see a lot in just a short time. The route takes just over 2 hours to complete and there are audio-guides available in eight languages including Chinese and Japanese. The added advantage is also that there is an interval of around 2 hours between stops which is long enough for photos, lunch or even a beer on an embankment. Q Bus leaves every 1 hour from pl. Ostrovskogo starting at 09:00 with the last departure at 20:00. Adults 450Rbl, students 350Rbl, children under 12 years old 200Rbl. Ticket remains valid for 1 day and can be bought on the bus. PUN

Liberty Ltd, travel company for the disabled , tel. +7 921 650 00 25/+7 921 306 85 63, www.libertytour.ru. This travel company specialises in wheelchair accessible tours in and around St. Petersburg. The guided tours work with specially fitted transport vans and take in the regular sights such as the Hermitage as well as general sightseeing and to the city suburbs such as Peterhof. Tour length and prices vary from the 1hr Spilled Blood Tour up to the 5hr jaunt to Peterhof. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00. Tours from 1,000Rbl. AU


53THE SIEGE OF LENINGRAD

‘Let no one forget, let no one be forgotten.’ These sombre words were written by Russian poet Olga Berggolts, who im-mortalizes all those who died defending the city during the nearly 900-day Siege of Leningrad. St. Petersburg, known as Leningrad from 1924-1991, has many places which honour the brave people, who defended their beloved city despite hunger, cold, disease and bombs. The Siege of Leningrad is one of the most horrible and yet heroic episodes in human history in which more than one million people died, mostly from starvation. Victory Day is celebrated on May 9th, and citizens remember the victims of WW2, known as the Great Patriotic War in Russian. Each year citizens who survived the Siege and veterans participate in a Victory Day Parade down Nevsky Prospekt to Palace Square. The end of the Siege is also remembered every year on January 27 with ceremonies at the main cemetery and special events held for blockade survivors across the city.

Blockade Museum (State Museum of the Defense and Blockade of Leningrad) D-2, Solyanoy per. 9, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 275 75 47, bloka-damus.ru. Dedicated to the Defence of Leningrad during the Second World War, or as the Russians call it, the Great Patriotic War, this museum is sombre yet absorbing. Full of displays showing the famine ravaged city (in November 1941, the bread ration was just 250gms a day for workers) and the heroic efforts to somehow get food in from beyond the blockade across the frozen Lake Ladoga, the famous ‘Road of Life’ are depicted here. Despite the mighty lack of English, visitors can still follow most of what is being depicted. Pick up a booklet on the history of the Museum for 10Rbl at the front desk. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, Tue 10:00 - 16:00. Open 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Wed and last Thu of the month. Admis-sion 100-200Rbl. Guided tours only in Russian, 250Rbl per person. Closed every last thursday of the month.

Monument of the Heroic Defenders of Leningrad Ploschad Pobedy (Victory Square), MMoskovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 371 29 51, www.spbmuseum.ru. The 40m high needle and memorial statues are the first sight anyone sees as they travel toward the city from Pulkovo airport. The Block-ade Museum, with its imposing mosaic walls is located underneath the square. Exhibi ts include hand wri t ten letters written by boys requesting permission to fight on the front and film footage of the Siege. A big copper diary turns describing what happened on that day during the Siege. Q Open 11:00 - 18:00, Tue 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Wed and last Tue of the month. Admission 60-90Rbl. Excursion 250Rbl. On the 27th of January, 23rd of Ferb-ruary and 9th of May entrance is for free.

Piskaryevskoye Memorial Cemetery Pr. Nepoko-rennykh 72, MPl. Muzhestva, tel. (+7) 812 297 57 16, pmemorial.ru. More than a million people died in the Leningrad blockade, and 489,000 of them are buried in this memorial cemetery. As you walk toward the monument of Mother Russia, with mass graves on either side of the path, you will hear Shostakovich’s 7th Symphony (Leningrad Symphony), which he composed during the war. Q Cemetery open 09:00 - 21:00. Museum open 10:00 - 18:00. Admis-sion free. GETTING THERE: from Pl. Muzhestva metro take marshrutka or bus 138, 123; from Akademicheskaya metro take marshrutka 178 . Get off at Piskarevka.

Rumyantsev Mansion C-2, Angliskaya nab. 44, MSa-dovaya, tel. (+7) 812 571 75 44, www.spbmuseum.ru. Situated in a beautiful neoclassical building, this was the first private-owned museum in Russia. The exhibition on ‘Lenin-grad during the Great Patriotic War’ gives a moving impression of the heroic struggle of the people of St. Petersburg during the Siege. On display is the original copy of the harrowing siege diary of 11 year old Tanya Savicheva. There’s also a small exhibition dedicated to the history and owners of the palace. Refurbished for the 300th anniversary of the city, several rooms illustrate the building’s former glory complete with memorabilia from former owners. Other exhibitions deal with life and work in St. Petersburg during the 1930s, sup-ported by tons of original pictures, clothes, magazines and other odds and ends. Some information in English. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Tue 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Wed. Closed every last tuesday . Admission 60-110Rbl.

Tanya Savicheva was a young Russian diarist who lived through the siege. Aged just 11 when the siege started Tanya joined her family in helping the war effort by dig-ging trenches and putting out firebombs. After having burnt her own diary to heat their home, on December 28th 1941 Tanya was given her missing-presumed-dead sister’s diary. In it she began to record her family’s toil. Everyday her mother would walk seven kilometres to work in an ammunitions plant, then donate blood before return-ing home. Every month of the diary holds a death, first was her second sister, then grandmother in January 1942, a

brother 2 months later, followed by her uncles and then in May 1942 her mother. As an orphan Tanya was evacuated from the city in August 1942 to a village but died of illness in July 1944. The original copy of her heartbreaking diaries which was used as evidence during the Nuremburg trials can be seen at the Rumyantsev museum.

Tanya Savicheva


54 FURTHER AFIELD

Pushkin 24km south of St. Petersburg. Tsarskoye selo or Pushkin? Both names still apply to one of St. Petersburg’s most famous imperial villages. The summer home of the Romanov tsars for centuries Tsarskoye Selo or the Royal Village was renamed Pushkin following the communist revolution in honour of one of its other well-known residents, the poet Alexander Pushkin. In 2010 the town celebrated its 300th birthday and following intense restoration works Pushkin’s many treasures are sparkling. Regardless of the time of year, sightseeing opportunities abound from the spectacular Catherine Park and Amber room of Catherine’s Palace to the quieter Alexander Palace or the literary school museum.GETTING THERE: From Vitebsky station, take a train to Detskoe Selo station, from there you can walk to the palace (20 min) or take bus N371 or N382. From Moskovskaya metro, take marshrutka N286, 287, 342, 347, 545. Q Palace open 10:00 - 17:00 (for individuals 12:00 - 14:00, 16:00 - 17:00). Closed Tue and last Mon of the month. Park open 07:00 - 21:00. Palace admission 280-550Rbl (includes Amber Room), park admission free.

Repino Primorskoe shosse 411, tel. (+7) 812 432 08 34, www.nimrah.ru. Named after the painter Il ya Repin (Russia’s Rembrandt), Repino is a seaside suburb, where people come for cross-countr y ski-ing in winter. Visi t the beauti ful reconstruction of the wooden house that Repin designed for his family, which is set in pleasant gardens, with small wooden stages and gazebos scattered about the rugged grounds. The gulf is just across the painter’s former residence and makes for some nice contemplative strolling. QOpen 10:30 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission 30-300Rbl.GETTING THERE: From metro Staraya derevnya take marshrutka 305, from Finlyandsky station train bound for Roshchino, Vyborg, Zelenogorsk or Kirillovskoe.

SuburbsPavlovsk Pavlovsk, Sadovaya ul. 20, tel. (+7) 812 452 15 36, www.pavlovskmuseum.ru. Subtle, romantic, relaxing and quiet. All perfect words to describe Pavlovsk. Only 27 kilometers from the big city, it feels like a world away. The small town hosts the fascinating Pavlovsk Palace, encompassed by a huge 1,500 acre park. Tall trees, winding streams and endless paths scattered wi th classical statues and flanked by benches make for many a secluded spot. I f you have active children who need a place to blow off some steam, pack a picnic and make an afternoon of it. The enchanting Pavlovsk Palace, with i ts magnificent neoclassical interior, is a feast for the eyes. The country residence of the Imperial family boasts beautiful architecture and captivating his-tory. Certainly not as grand as Peterhof, but much less touristy, Pavlovsk is great place to get away from it all. GETTING THERE: From Kupchino metro station marshru tka 286, 545; from Moskovskaya metro station take marshrutka 299; from Vitebsky station or metro station Kupchino (last stop of blue l ine) take a train to Pavlovsk station. Q Palace open 10:00 - 17:00. Park open daily. Admission to park 80-150Rbl. Admission to palace 300-500Rbl. UK

Peterhof Peterhof, Ul.Razvodnaya 2, tel. (+7) 812 450 52 87, www.peterhofmuseum.ru. Accurately re-ferred to as the ‘Russian Versailles’, Peterhof is a fantastic destination to visit if you need a break from the chaos of Nevsky Prospekt and the hooting of impatient drivers. It is particularly spectacular from late-May to mid-October, when the 147 fountains are turned on, but even so it is well worth visiting at any other time of year. The Great Palace was built between 1709 and 1724 under the directions of Peter the Great, but the tsars and tsarinas that followed each wanted to make their own mark, adding another palace or fountain. Other museums worth visiting within the grounds include the Hermitage Palace, the Marly Palace and Mon-plaisir. Q Park open dai l y 09:00 - 20:00. Palaces open 10:30 - 19:00. Closed Mon and last Tue of the month. Admission to park free, lower park 400Rbl. Ad-mission Great Palace 200-520Rbl, audiogu-ide 500Rbl. Tour book-ing office 450 58 06. G E T T I N G T H E R E : From Ba l t i i sk y s ta -tion, take a train, bus 350, 351, 352, 356, or marsh ru tka 404. From m et ro Av tovo, take marshrutka 224, 300 or 424 and from metro Leninsky pr. take marshrutka 103.

55

St. Petersburg In Your Pocketst_petersburg.inyourpocket.com

MOSCOW

Explore the Soviet PastIt was the Soviets who moved the capital back from St. Petersburg to Moscow and reminders of the city’s commu-nist past are visible everywhere across the city’s skyline. A huge collection of 20th Century Russian art sheds light on the complexities of the Soviet period at the Tretyakov Gallery on Krymsky Val and the GULAG Museum offers a sobering account of the horrors faced by millions in the Soviet prison camps. For monumental architecture and statues head to the huge All Russia Exhibition Centre (VVTs), while nothing can beat the Cold War Bunker Tour for a fun and enlightening trip into the secrets of the KGB and the Cold War.

Literature and TheatreMany of Russia’s best writers have been inspired by Moscow and the homes of Chekhov, Tolstoy, Mayakovsky and Bulga-kov – to name but a few - have been preserved as museums. Moscow was also the home of one of the greatest theatre directors of modern times Konstantin Stanislavsky and the theatre which he led (now named in his honour) is one of Moscow’s best for ballet, dance and opera. Finally of course there’s no bigger name in Russian theatre than the Bolshoi which has just been spectacularly renovated.

Fine DiningWith more billionaires per square metre than any other city in the world, it goes without saying there are some truly fabulous places to dine in Moscow. Michelin chefs at the Lotte Hotel, imperial dining on silver platters and mountains of caviar at the Marriott Royal Aurora or Cafe Pushkin, the best sushi this side of Tokyo in Aozora or MEGU - You name it, it’s here to be eaten. At the other end of the spectrum Moscow is a magnet for foreign immigrants and they’ve all brought their outstanding home-cooking with them to the dining scene at places such as the Georgian Madame Galife or Beloye Sontse Pustiny.

Russia’s addictive capital is a chaotic mix of the traditional old and the fabulous new. Most Petersburg residents will probably tell you all kinds of things about how much they hate Moscow, but that’s all just local rivalry, there is in fact a lot to love. In fact you may come back with new con-troversial feelings of adoration towards Russia’s bustling capital. And even if you don’t, well, at least remember that you haven’t been to the heart of Russia until you’ve visited Red Square right?

Red Square and the KremlinSt. Basil’s, Lenin’s mausoleum, the famous GUM store and the State History Museum surround the world famous square. You can spend a whole day just exploring the area. Start out in the morning with Lenin’s tomb, get you picture taken in front of St. Basil’s iconic domes before taking on the immense State History Museum. Grab some lunch in GUM and browse the designer shops or pick up some posh goodies in the depart-ment store’s gourmet supermarket. The famous Kremlin is an undoubted must for a first time visit to Moscow. Always at the heart of Russian history, you can spend a hours in here exploring its various museums and churches.

Enjoy the great outdoorsMoscow has the most parkland of any city in Russia and during the winter months they are turned into a winter sports wonderland. For the chance to speed skate for kilometres along specially dedicated paths get down to Gorky Park, for a historic view try the rink on Red Square and to enjoy Moscow’s most historic skating pond its many mulled wine stands and live music join the crowds at the romantic Patri-arch’s Ponds. Thrill seekers can combine sightseeing with sledging at the Kolomenskoye Park Estate where Russians have been throwing themselves down the snowy slopes for generations or on Moscow’s Sparrow Hills where you can get a panoramic view of the city.

For a full guide to what to see, do, eat, drink and more in Moscow you can download a full 68-page pdf ver-sion of our Moscow In Your Pocket guide at our website moscow.inyourpocket.com, where you can also explore thousands of online listings and recommendations for how to enjoy your time in the capital.

Moscow In Your Pocket

If you are looking for a comfortable night train to the capital it is worth considering taking a private train. The cheerful Megapolis train leaves for Moscow every night and offers a more hotel-like travel experience. After being shown to your cabin you will find your beds have already been made up with real duvets rather than blankets, and all round the carriages are spotless. Hungry? Lucky you! Every cabin has a pile of complimentary snacks such as bread, pate and cheese, fruits, yoghurts and waffles for when you get the midnight munchies. Hot breakfast and coffee is brought to your room in the morning and if at any moment during the trip you experience some problems you can call the train attendant from the comfort of your bed and they will come to you! If you want to wake up in Moscow truly fresh in the morning, it’s worth the money. Trains leave at 00:20 and arrive in Moscow at 09:00. For reservations call (+7) 495 35 44 11 or book online at www.megapolis-te.ru

Night trains to Moscow

56


MOSCOW

Gorky ParkThe immortal Gorky Park had a complete makeover in 2011 ridding itself of its reputation as a ‘poor man’s Disneyland’ and re-emerging as the coolest park in town. During the winter it is one of the most spectacular places to ice skate in the world, let alone Moscow. There are kilometres of specially prepared tracks so you can skate instead of walk along the river embankments, as well as dedicated ice dancing areas and ice hockey rinks. What’s more a winter craft’s market has been built selling hip new designer gear and there’s a number of trendy cafes and bars including the funky Cafe Medio, which has its own little ice-rink. During Maslenitsa (Russia’s pancake week running from February 20 - 26) the park will be pulling out all the stops to put on an extra special celebration, no doubt in a very cutting-edge style. Gorky Park (Park Gorkogo), M Oktyabryskaya, parkgorky.ru

Moroz CityThis year in Moscow’s Sokolniki park ice sculptors from across the country have joined together to create a new type of ice construction - Moroz City - a whole town made from snow and ice. Moroz city features a lighthouse, bar (accessible via a long maze), a church with ice organ and bells, a Russian bathhouse, cinema and a mini-golf course amongst other quirky features. The City is planned to stay open until March 08 (providing the weather remains cold enough). Sokolniki park (free entrance) also boasts beautiful forests and a very romantic old open-air ice-rink. Moroz City, Park Sokolniki, M Sokolniki. Open 10:00 - 22:00. Admission adults 250Rbl, children 150Rbl.

Ice-breaker river cruiseEquipped with ice-breaking technology, the Radisson hotel has the only river cruise ships which run all year round. Ensconced inside the gleaming new yacht you can enjoy a two and half hour round trip which floats past all the big sights such as the White House, Moscow State University, Gorky Park, Novodevichy monastery and the Kremlin. Food and drinks are available all along the way in the glass-walled restaurant, while you can also brave the cold out on the viewing platform on the roof if you so wish. For a particularly romantic experience take one of the evening boats and admire the bright lights of the city skyline at night. Radisson Royal Moscow Cruise Company, Taras Shevchenko nab., Hotel Ukraina pier, M Kievskaya, tel. (+7) 495 228 55 55, www.radisson-cruise.ru

Winter Wonderland Moscow never sleepsThe popular local saying is that ‘Moscow never sleeps’ and by the way people party here it certainly ain’t no lie. Don’t be sur-prised to find yourself in a club still dancing as the sun rises or enjoying an impromptu live concert at a local bar at 5am. If you have the stamina a night out in Moscow is usually one that is not quickly forgotten and if you are looking for the hippest clubs in Russia, then look no further than the Red October Factory area, Moscow’s most jumping area at the weekend.

HotelsComrade Hostel D-2, Ul. Maroseika 11, 3rd Floor (go under arch to the left of the playground), MKitay Gorod, tel. (+7) 495 628 31 26, www.comradehostel.com.Hilton Moscow Leningradskaya D-1, Ul. Kalanchevs-kaya 21/40, MKrasnye Vorota, tel. (+7) 495 627 55 50, www.moscow.hilton.com. hhhhhHotel Peking B-1, Ul. Bolshaya Sadovaya 5, MMaya-kovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 650 24 42, www.hotelpekin.ru. hhhhIbis Paveletskaya Ul. Shchipok 22, bldg.1, MPave-letskaya, tel. (+7) 495 661 85 00, www.ibishotel.com. hhhLike Home B-3, Ul. Prechistenka 40/2, bldg.2, 5th floor, of.20, MPark Kultury, tel. (+7) 495 223 34 52, www.likehome.ru.Lotte Hotel Moscow B-2, Novinsky bul. 8, bldg. 2, MSmolenskaya, tel. (+7) 495 745 10 00, www.lot-tehotel.ru. hhhhhMarriott Moscow Grand Hotel B-1, Ul. Tverskaya 26/1, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 937 00 00, www.marriottmoscowgrand.com. hhhhhMarriott Moscow Royal Aurora Hotel C-1, Ul. Petrovka 11, MKuznetsky Most, tel. (+7) 495 937 10 00, www.marriott.com/mowdt. hhhhhMarriott Moscow Tverskaya Hotel B-1, Ul. 1-ya Tverskaya-Yamskaya 34, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) 495 258 30 00, www.marriott.com/mowtv. hhhh

GETTING THERE: Dozens of different night trains run to Moscow everyday from Moskovsky vokzal, so there’s little excuse for not making the effort to visit. If you have less time you can also take advantage of the new super fast Sapsan train, which leaves St. Petersburg six times a day and gets you there in just under four hours. Local airlines also fly to Moscow and the journey takes about one hour. Once at one of Moscow’s three airports, hop on the hour-long aeroexpress train which brings you right to the centre.


57SHOPPING

Shopping centresBolshoy Gostiny Dvor D-2, Nevsky pr. 35, MGostiny Dvor, tel. (+7) 812 710 54 08, www.bgd.ru. Since the 18th century, this large yellow building on Nevsky prospekt, has been one of St. Petersburg’s biggest shopping centres. One circuit of Gostiny Dvor, past the dozens of shops and tiny stalls, is a kilometre. The first floor has caviar, souvenirs, shoes, music and cosmetics. The second floor has clothes, designer boutiques, toys, furs and hats. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. PTALK

Galeria D-3, Ligovsky pr. 30A, MPl. Vosstaniya, galeria-spb.ru. A huge shopping mall that is not actually stuck out on the highway to Finland. Sitting right next to the Moscow railway station Galeria house dozens of high street brands like Toshop, Levis, Mexx and French Connection, a huge supermarket, food court, movie theatre, bowling alley and res-taurants. The top floor boasts as massive arcade for young and young-at-heart. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. PAK

Nevsky Centre D-3, Nevsky pr. 114-116, MPl. Voss-taniya, tel. (+7) 812 313 93 13, www.nevskycentre.ru. This shopping centre in the historical heart of the city is brand-spanking new and looks it inside and out. Anchored by Stockmann, the Finnish department store, it is aimed at more upscale shoppers. You can find glamourous clothing outlets, cosmetics shops and those sophisticated bits and bobs for the house all under one roof. There’s also a spa, gym, supermarket and a roof top restaurant. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. PFLK

Pik Shopping Centre C-3, Ul. Efimova 2, MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 449 20 03, www.tk-pik.ru. This trendy shopping plaza has a lot of small cafes, fashion shops, a 24hrs supermarket in the basement, a big toy shop on the 3rd floor, an internet cafe - and by the way you have to try the elevators. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. PJLKW

SupermarketsLand (basement of Vladimirsky Passage) D-3, Vladi-mirsky pr. 19, MVladimirskaya/Dostoevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 331 32 33, land-group.ru/about/markets/. Even the local stuff is marked up by around 30%, but this is the place to go for all the exotic stuff you’ve been missing whether it’s fine Italian olive oil, French pate, Mexican-American hot sauce or Thai kitchen fixings. Their meat and cheese counter is definitely worth the extra, with expertly butchered fillets and honest-to-god sharp parmigiano and the occasional markdowns on fine wines is worth a pop in. Also has a bakery counter selling pies and coffees that you can enjoy right there in the centre of the supermarket. Q Open 24hrs. A

Prisma E-4, Pl. Aleksandra Nevskogo 2 (Moscow Shop-ping Centre), MPl. Aleksandra Nevskogo, tel. (+7) 812 459 99 81, www.prismamarket.ru. From Finland, this brand spanking new supermarket is in the basement of the Moscow Hotel Centre, just next to the hotel. The supercentre as they call it has all the hallmarks of western shopping. Except the staff of course. For some reason, nothing to do with its country of origin, its very cold here. It’s brisk but that makes you shop faster and keeps everything, even the rows and rows of beer very cold indeed. Q Open 24 hrs.

Stockmann Delicatessen D-3, Nevsky pr. 114-116, MPl. Vosstaniya, www.stockmann.ru. Located in the basement of the Nevsky shopping Centre, the Stockmann supermarket has standard local foodstuffs and European products for both the budget cook and the serious gourmet. The alcohol and sweets sections are particularly well-stocked. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. A

BookshopsBukvoed D-3, Ligovsky pr. 10, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 601 06 01, www.bookvoed.ru. Roomy, full of books and gifts, stationery and the like, there is a cafe in the back which hosts free guitar sessions and poetry readings and where you can hang out and use the wi-fi. They have a sizeable English language section with a host of shoddy paperbacks to stock up on if you’re going on a train trip and cultural guides on Russia. Q Open 24hrs. JAKW

Dom Knigy C/D-2, Nevsky pr. 28, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 448 23 55, www.spbdk.ru. The city’s favourite bookshop boasts a historic location, three spacious floors of books and a quiet café overlooking Nevsky pr. In halls with highly domed ceilings and brightly tiled floors, the range of reading material is astonishing. Dom Knigy offers a good range of classic and modern non-Russian and translated Russian literature as well as coffee-table books and souvenirs. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. PAKW

Sport ShopsBosco Sport D-1, Nevsky pr. 54, MSportivnaya, tel. (+7) 812 314 23 37, www.boscosport.ru. The one-stop shop for official Russian Olympic gear and goodies. For those who lust after a shiny white and red jacket with Russia emblazoned on, and are ready to party with more than a months wage, Bosco is your shop. Everything is in the Russian team colours of white and red with the squiggle representing the Firebird of Russian fairytales. Fans of the Olympic mascot, Cheburashka (the famous and desperately cute Russian cartoon character) take note that there are at least three different sizes and two colours. White from the last Winter Olympics and Red for the Beijing Games. Magnets and badges available for diehard fans without deep pockets. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. PA

Zenit D-3, Nevsky pr. 54, MGostiny Dvor, tel. (+7) 812 606 65 16, www.zenit-trade.ru. St. Petersburg’s one and only football team, FC Zenit, has many shops all over the city. They were catapulted to fame after winning the UEFA cup and then the UEFA Super cup in the same year back in euphoric 2006. To show your support you can buy anything from a small pin badge, one of the latest team strips, or even the teams bed spread. Go Zenit! “...blue, white & light-blueeee... AY, AY!...” QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. A

Skolko stoit? = How much is it?


58 SHOPPING

Gifts and SouvenirsLa Petite Opera Gallery (Grand Hotel Europe and Taleon Imperial Hotel) C-2, Mikhailovskaya st. 1/7, Nevsky pr. 15, tel. (+7) 812 571 80 83, (+7) 812 969 17 38, www.lacquerbox.net. La Petite Opera is one of the oldest galleries of Russian ar t. Working directly with the artists they offer extraordinary pieces of fine art and elegant craftsmanship. The gallery’s collection includes original icon paintings, decorative amber articles, luxurious ornaments and a carefully chosen selection of original lacquer miniatures meticulously done in both clas-sic and contemporary styles. There are also samples of traditional steel arms, fine chess and backgammon sets, and contemporary and antique paintings. The decorative pieces are the quality equivalent of what one would find on display at no less an institution than the Hermitage. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00.

Lomonosov Porcelain Factory Pr. Obukhovskoy Oborony 151, MLomonosovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 326 17 44, www.ipm.ru. Named after the father of Russian porcelain, Mikhail Lomonosov, this factory was established in 1744. It was originally an imperial plant and it produced the table-ware of the tsars. There is a shop (!) and a museum in the factory, where there are tours in English. Shops also at Vladimirsky pr. 7 and Nevsky pr. 160. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. PAL

Nevsky Souvenir Shop C-2, Nevsky pr. 22-24 (entrance at Bol. Konyushennaya ul. 12), MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 954 78 53, www.nevskysouvenir.com. One stop shopping for reminders of your visit or for all your loved ones back home, priced to fit any and all budgets. Hand painted matroshkas, chess boards and boxes representing different schools of painting - the icon tradition and the realist tradition. Faberge style eggs and natural amber necklaces in some stunning designs, along with hand-blown glass figurines and ornaments are con-trasted by quirkier items like scarves, puppets, magnets, key rings and oven gloves. Clothing items include standard t-shir ts but they also have some beauti ful traditional flowered scarves and embroidered linen peasant shirts and aprons. The helpful English speaking staff can also help you to book tickets for the theatre and tours. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. PA

Souvenirs Fair D-2, Nab. kan. Griboedova 1, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 962 26 13. If you need gifts to cart back to your friends and family, make sure to stop by this outdoor souvenir market on canal Griboedov behind the Church of the Saviour on the Spilt Blood. The market’s specialties include hand-painted matryoshka dolls of all sizes, Soviet memora-bilia, cheap fur-hats, beautifully designed chess boards and Mc Lenin t-shirts. Most of the vendors speak good English, and bargaining is normal practice; in fact, it’s expected! QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. N

In addition to concierges all over the city (Astoria, Crown Plaza and Corinthia, to name but a few) and restaurants (such as Tandoori Nights, Marchelli’s and King Pong, for example) you can also pick up the latest copy of this guide in Nevsky Centre. While you’re there shopping, don’t forget to have a drink with a view at the Moskva rooftop restaurant after a soothing massage from Royal Thai.

Get your next copy

Russia is full of beautiful souvenirs from the classics Russian doll to quirky Soviet memorabilia. These are some of the more essential things you should consider bringing home with you:

1. Shapka ushanka. If you want to look as much a tourist as possible during your time in Russia, but cool beyond belief back home, then of course you need to get a Russian fur hat or shapka ushanka with ear flaps. Anything with red stars on earns you double spot-the-tourist points. Most things you will find in the markets are fake fur, if you want to pay for a real fur hat then head to a fur shop.

2. Matryoshka. That’s those Russian nesting dolls. Anywhere you go you will be spoilt for choice whether you are after the classic simple red and yellow design to something large and glittery or even a dictators of the world set. Also look out for paint-your-own-matrioshka kits - they make great gifts for kids.

3. Vodka. Good brands include Russky Standart, Be-luga, Tsarskaya or the Ukrainian Nemiroff. For something kitsch opt for the Kalashnikov or Matrioshka brands sold in bottles shaped to match their names. Note that you are allowed to take only 2 litres of strong alcohol out of the country with you. If you are going to Estonia the amount allowed is only 1 litre.

4. Soviet memorabilia. Those fantastic Soviet public advertising posters can be found in most bookshops or souvenir stores, while Lenin statues, CCCP hip flasks and flags are available in almost any souvenir stores.

5. Russian crafts. There are various different designs and schools of Russian crafts and a bit of everything is still a realistic wish list. If you don’t have too much souvenir space we recommend you pick up a khokhloma (the red, black and gold shiny wooden stuff) spoon and bowl set, perhaps a gzhel (the blue and white glazed pottery) tea set, a carved birch bark comb (said to be very good for you hair) and a Russian lacquer box.

6. Platok. These beautiful Russian scarves come in many different colours and designs and are particularly warm accessories for the winter months. If you are not so keen on the flowers and bright colours of the classic platok and are willing to fork out a bit more money, Oren-burgsky platok are very fine and delicate silk-like scarves made from the down hair of goats, which usually come in white, grey and muted pastel colours.

Russian Souvenirs


59EXPAT

It’s not easy living in Russia as a foreigner, but there is a grow-ing expat network. As the expat community expands, we want to let you know about groups you may be interested to join. If you would like your group to be featured here, please send your contacts to [email protected].

Expat ContactsAIESEC Moskovsky pr. 103, off. 315, MMoskovskie Vorota, tel. (+7) 812 718 50 05, add 7413, www.aiesec.ru/spb/. Also in FINEK (State University of Economics and Finances), Moskatelny per. 4, off. 341 (metro Nevsky pr.).Chaine des Rotisseurs D-2, Ul. Mikhaylovskaya 1/7, tel. (+7) 812 329 68 84, www.chaine-russia.com. The oldest gastronomic society in the world, with over 120 active members in St. Petersburg and over 65,000 members worldwide.Deutsche Runde/Stammtisch, tel. (+7) 921 181 66 78, [email protected]. Please contact Dr. Christoph DenglerDutch Drinking Committee , www.nlvpetersburg.com. Dutch expatriates gather together to share beer and experiences every last Friday of the month. Belgian citizens welcome too!English Communication Club, tel. (+7) 904 644 55 50, [email protected], www.encc.ru. A community of English speaking people, both native speakers and Russians, who meet twice a week to socialise, improve their English communication skills, make new friends and simply have a good time.French Communication Club (CCF Le Petit Prince) tel. (+7) 904 617 30 46, [email protected], www.ccflpp.ru.A good humored group of French speaking people, native and non-, who meet once a week on Wednes-days to practice their French, meet new people and enjoy themselves. Sometimes outings organized on week-ends, in French!Q Admission 200Rbl.German-Russian Exchange D-3, Ligovsky pr. 87, off. 300, MLigovsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 718 37 91, obmen.org.International Women’s Club (IWC) , [email protected], www.iwcstpete.com. English speaking network of over 100 women residing in St. Petersburg, diverse social and friendly. There are many interest groups including painting, cooking and languages. A general meeting is held once a month.InterNations, www.internations.org. Popular interna-tional expat network that has communities based all over the world. In Russia they have Moscow and St. Petersburg based groups who regularly meet for drinks. All nationalities welcome, just bring an open mind with you.

Cultural Centres and LibrariesAdelante (Spanish centre) E-3, Nevsky pr. 54, MGosti-ny Dvor, tel. (+7) 812 600 18 80, www.centroadelante.ru. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.American Corner E-3, Nab. reky Fontanky 46, MMaya-kovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 571 15 89, www.amcorners.ru. Q Open 12:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun, Mon.Centre of British books Izmailovskiy pr. 18 (Library im. Lermontova), M Tekhnologichesky institut, tel. (+7) 812 251 12 43, www.lplib.ru. Q Open 12:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00, closed Sat.

Danish Cultural Institute D-3, Nab. reky Moyki 42, off. 38, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571 74 66, www.dki.spb.ru.Finnish Institute D-3, Ul. Bolshaya Konyushennaya 8, 3rd floor, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 606 65 65, www.instfin.ru. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Fri 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun.Goethe Institute D-3, Nab. reky Moiky 58, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 363 11 25, www.goethe.de. Q Open 08:15 - 20:00, closed Sat. Library open 14:00 - 17:00, closed Sun.Institut Francais D-3, Nevsky pr. 12, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571 09 95, www.ifspb.com. QOpen 09:30 - 18:30, Fri 09:30 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.Mayakovsky Library/ Foreign Literature Library E-3, Nab. reky Fontanky 44-46, MGostiny Dvor, tel. (+7) 812 571 08 56, www.pl.spb.ru.Q Open 11:00 - 20:00, closed Sun. Foreign literature department 11:00 - 19:00, closed Sun.The Japan Center D-3, Nevsky pr. 25, 4th floor, off. 414B, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 326 25 50, www.jpcenter.spb.ru. Q Open 09:00 -18:00, Sat, Sun closed.The Netherlands Institute F-2, Kaluzhsky per. 3, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 327 08 87, www.nispb.ru. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Schools/KindergartensInfant School (British International School) D-3, Nevsky pr. 136, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 714 77 74, www.infantschool.ru. This school is a unique educational institu-tion in St. Petersburg, which combines the very best of a traditional British preparatory school covering British National Curriculum and a well respected Russian educational heritage. Nursery Depart-ment (ages 2-4), Reception Department (ages 4-6), Junior School (ages 6-10). QOpen 08:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun.P’tit Cref Pre-school E-3, Nevsky pr. 88, MMayakovs-kaya, tel. (+7) 812 579 57 63, www.ptitcref.ru. Cref offers the unique pre-school alternative of three language learning. Russian-English-French are taught in rotation at the school. P’tit Cref has a cheery, relaxed environment with like-minded staff in a very cheery corner of St. Petersburg. They offer half-day and full-day programs. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun.The International Pre-School E-2, Ul. Furshtatskaya 22, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 921 940 63 39.This non-profit kindergarten provides Western-style childcare, taught entirely in English by a pair of enthusiastic profession-als. Art lessons, gym, dance and field trips included!QOpen 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Language SchoolsDerzhavin Institute C-4, Nab. reky Fontanky 118, 3rd floor, MTeknologichesky institut, tel. (+7) 812 740 19 26, www.derzhavin.com. Situated in one wing of the newly refurbished 18th Century Derzhavin mansion, the school has a beautiful setting. There are seven classrooms, all with high-ceilings and large windows. There’s also a library, common rooms and computers with free internet access for students. The staff speak many different languages and have experience teaching in both Russian universities and abroad.Q Open 09:00 - 18:00, classes till 21:45. Closed Sat., Sun. PNLiden & Denz D-3, Ul. Inzhenernaya 6, MGostiny Dvor, tel. (+7) 812 334 07 88, www.lidenz.ru. Liden & Denz is one of St Petersburg’s oldest language schools, having opened in 1992. Now they have expanded into a large new centre not far from Gostiny Dvor (though the original centre off Ligovsky pr. also remains open). Russian is taught mainly in groups of up to 10 people, though individual courses are also available. Classrooms are bright and equipped with televisions and DVD players. There are computers with internet access for student use, plus wi-fi internet if you want to bring your own laptop. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A


60 LIFESTYLE DIRECTORY

Banyas, Spas and PoolsHoliday Club Spa and Wellness (Sokos hotel Palace Bridge) C-2, VO, Birzhevoy per. 2-4, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 335 2200, www.sokosrestaurants.ru. One of the city’s most luxurious and famous spa complexes. Eight saunas, a massive pool with plenty of spaces for lounging, fresh juices and smoothies from the juice bar and treatments from professional therapists make a visit to the Holiday Club feel like stepping into another supremely relaxing world. Keeping with tradition the have even an ice room for the post sauna roll in the snow.QOpen 09:00 - 22:00.

Royal Thai D-3, Nevsky pr. 114-116, Nevsky Center, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 676 51 29/(+7) 911 901 13 13, www.royalthai.ru. The location is unbeatable, smack in the centre, next to two metro lines and inside the all encompassing Nevsky Centre. It sounds a bit hectic but that is exactly why Royal Thai is perfectly placed as a retreat. Soothing dark woods, calming Buddhas and dim lighting great you as you enter. Treatments from expert masseurs are available from 30 - 120 minutes and can also include facials and scrubs. The focus here is on mind, body and spirit and after one session here you’ll feel at one with yourself and perhaps even the universe. Gift certificates available. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. PL

Waterville (Park Inn Pribaltiskaya) B-1, ul. Korable-stroiteley 14, MPrimorskaya, tel. (+7) 812 324 47 00, www.waterville.ru. Waterville is a huge world of crazy water fun and is just as entertaining for adults as it is for kids. There are 8 slides, special kiddies pools, a wave machine, jacuzzis and a sports pool for people who actually want to swim. There’s also a sauna complex on site, a restaurant and no less than four bars (two of which serve cocktails). QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. AKDC

Clinics and HospitalsAmerican Medical Clinic and Hospital С-2, Nab. reky Moiky 78, MSadovaya, tel. (+7) 812 740 20 90/(+7) 812 336 00 03, www.amclinic.com. Providing in-patient and out-patient services in 39 specialties, their fully Western clinic provides 24 hour care from emergency services and ob/gyn, to cosmetic surgery and dentistry. Languages spoken here include English, German, Spanish, Japanese, French and Arabic. Q Open 24hrs. PAU

Euromed Medical Center F-3, Suvorovsky pr. 60, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 327 03 01, www.euromed.ru. Euromed has modern facili ties and a range of English-speaking specialists, as well as an ambulance service, in- and out-patient facilities, perform all manner of surgical procedures and in extreme cir-cumstances are experts in expatriation and evacuation. Q Open 24hrs. PTARU

MEDEM International Clinic & Hospital D-3, Ul. Marata 6, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 336 33 33, www.medem.ru. This busy clinic has a wide range of full-time English-speaking doctors and specialists. Also includes a dentistr y section and a 24-hour pharmacy. Certified European quality care in a sparkling central clinic with the full gamut of services. Q Open 24hrs. PAU

Zdorovye lyudi (24-hour pharmacy) D-3, Ul. Voss-taniya 19, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 332 59 20, zl.ru. Q Open 24hrs.

Entertainment CentresBowling Park C-3, Sennaya Shopping Centre, Ul. Efimova 3, MSennaya Pl., tel. (+7) 812 380 30 05, www.bowlingpark.ru. Being open twenty four hours and playing host to a mixed crowd of amateurs and professionals lends this venue some cool and relaxed vibes. Facili ties are modern, the bar staff are friendly and there’s 36 lanes so enough room for everyone. QOpen 11:00 - 06:00, Sat 10:00 - 06:00.

Happylon (Galleria Shopping Centre) D-3, Ligov-sky pr. 30, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 800 100 00 20, www.happylon.ru. Ahoy, ye mateys! A pirate island themed amusement park has landing atop Galleria shopping centre and she is loaded with bounty. This 4,500 square metre complex boasts 10 thrilling rides, over 100 arcade games, mini-bowling, lazer tag and a 5D cinema complete with video, motion and other sensory effects. Little kids will enjoy tearing through the plastic maze and ball pits or toddling through the softer play areas, while big kids can shoot ‘em up or bite back the screams from free falling courtesy of the Tsunami. Birthday parties can be made to order and if parents just want to chill while the children let off some steam, Happylon has a fully stocked cafe. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. PTJAW

Fitness Clubs and YogaAlex Fitness (Nevsky Shopping Centre) D-3, Nevsky pr. 114, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 777 09 09. With an amazing location in the Nevsky Shopping Centre and some gorgeous views of Ploshad Vosstania, Alex Fitness is a great place to work up a sweat on their top-notch workout machines or during any of their pro-fessionally led classes that include aerobics, strength training and dance. There’s also an on-site sauna, con-sulting physicians and regular special membership offers. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 22:00.

Planet Fitness C-2, Ul. Kazanskaya 37, MSadova-ya, tel. (+7) 812 315 71 75, www.fitness.ru/eng/. Locations throughout the city ranging from basic weight machine, exercise room and stationary equipment facili-ties to multi-floored centres with all the bells and whistles including sauna, indoor tracks and swimming pools. Q Open 07:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 21:00. PAD

U vas yest vizitka? =Do you have a business card?


61LIFESTYLE DIRECTORY

Foreign Religious servicesBuddhist Temple Primorsky pr. 91, MStaraya Derevnya, tel. (+7) 812 430 97 40, www.dazan.spb.ru. The most northern buddhist temple in the world is situated on a busy highway flanked on both sides by cars. Inside however, it’s remarkably calm and welcoming. Built in the early days of the twentieth century by monks from Buryatia in Far Eastern Siberia, the first worship took place on 21 February 1913. During the Soviet years, the monks endured persecution and exile and the temple was vandalised. In 1938 it was turned into a youth centre. Throughout the war years and until 1960, the temple housed a radio station. The building was restored to the city’s buddhists in 1990. Today you can enjoy a basic meal in the basement cafe and sit and meditate inside the quaint temple. Q Open 10:00 - 19:00. Daily services 10:00-12:00, 15:00-16:00.

Grand Choral Synagogue of St. Petersburg B-2, Lermontovsky pr. 2, MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 713 81 86, www.jewsp.ru. The Grand Choral Synagogue of St. Petersburg is the second largest in Europe. It’s about 3,200 square metres in area, and its domed tower 47m high. The majestic Grand Hall can accommodate 1,200 worshippers. The synagogue’s complex also consists of the Small Syna-gogue (Mikvah), Le’Chaim, a kosher restaurant, and a gift shop called Kosher, where you can buy rabbi matryoshkas! QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Open for visitors 09:00 - 18:00. Daily services 09:00, 21:00. On Saturday and Jewish festivals from 10:00 to 13:00 for prayer only.

Lutheran church of Peter and Paul C-2, Nevsky pr. 22-24, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 312 07 98, www.petrikirche.ru. This church has been used for a variety of purposes over the years. Initially built to serve the grow-ing German community in the 19th century, the church is dedicated to the apostle Petrus. After 1936 it was used as a storage house for vegetables, and later reconstructed to serve as a swimming pool. The floor was removed and benches for spectators were placed along the perimeters. It’s since been restored and returned to the German St.Anne and Peter’s Evangelical-Lutheran Congregation. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. Admission free. Service on Sun 10:30 in German with Russian translation. Guided tours in English, German and Russian for groups (up to 50 people) by prior arrangement.

Mosque D-2, Kronversky pr. 7, MGorkovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 233 98 19, www.russian-mosques.com Northern-Europe’s biggest mosque, near the Peter and Paul Fortress, is a place of worship for up to 5,000 Muslims. Although of-ficially 300,000 followers of the prophet Mohammed live in St. Petersburg, the mosque is almost never full. It was built in 1913 and is the northernmost mosque in the world. Last year the mosaics and the two 49m high minarets were renovated to great beauty. During Soviet times medicines were stored here. Q Open only for services (5 times a day).

Roman Catholic Parish, Church of St. Catherine of Alexandria D-2, Nevsky pr. 32-34, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571 57 95, www.catherine.spb.ru. Daily services in Russian 08:30, 19:00; Sat 12:00 (Russian), 20:00 (Spanish); Sun 09:30 (English), 12:00 (Russian), 13:30 (Polish), 17:00 (French). QOpen 08:00 - 20:00.

St. Catherine Church (Anglican) D-2, Ul. Malaya Konyushennaya 1/3, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571 20 81. Usual Sunday services, at 11:00 (English). After the service, refreshments are provided. Sunday school for young children.

Accountants and ConsultantsErnst and Young (Accountants & Consultants) C-2, Ul. Malaya Morskaya 23, 3rd floor, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 703 78 00, www.ey.com/cis. QOpen 08:30 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun.PricewaterhouseCoopers C-2, Per. Grivtsova 4, lit. A, MSennaya Pl., tel. (+7) 812 326 69 69, www.pwc.com. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

BanksRaiffeisen Bank D-2, Nab. reky Moiky 36, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 800 700 91 00, www.raif-feisen.ru. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. AWestern Union C-2, Nevsky Prospekt 22-24, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 329 80 50, www.westernunion.com. Also at Nevsky pr. 8A, 15, 26, 53, 61, 90, 104.Hotline 8 800 200 2232.

Business AssociationsAmerican Chamber of Commerce C- 2, Ul. Yakubovicha 24, business centre Na Novo-Isaaki-evskoy, left wing, 3rd floor, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 448 16 46, www.amcham.ru. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.SPIBA - St. Petersburg International Busi-ness Association for North-Western Russia C-2, Nevsky pr. 21, off. 506, tel. (+7) 812 325 90 91, www.spiba.ru. QOpen 09:30 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Lawyers and notariesCastren & Snellman C-2, Nevsky pr. 22/24, office 18, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 325 80 85, www.castren.fi. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.Mannheimer Swartling D-2, Ul. Malaya Konyush-ennaya 1/3A, Sweden House, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 335 23 00, www.mannheimerswartling.se. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Logistics/Cargo transportationALS Solutions LLC Finlyandsky pr. 4a, MPl. Lenina, www.als-rus.com. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Moving and StorageAAA-Logistics E-3, Ul. Sofiyskaya 6, MVolkovs-kaya, tel. (+7) 812 431 99 19, www.aaa-russia.com. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Copy CentresVosstaniya-1 Digital Copy Centre D-3, Ul. Vosstaniya 1, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 579 57 70, w w w.v1.spb.ru/en.Also can make business cards and photos for documents. Copying and printing is upstairs, the photography studio is on the ground floor to the leftQOpen 10:00 - 22:00.

Business Directory

62 METRO MAP

63MAP

The slow winter build up of snow and ice on city roofs can create a hazard for pedestrians. When the temperature rises not only can the streets become slipperier, but also the incre-dible chunks of ice hanging from the roofs can come crashing down onto unsuspecting passersby, so watch out! Likewise if you see maintenance teams on a roof clearing away the snow and ice, stay as far away from the building as possible

As the colder weather blows in beware of ice on streets and paths. The ability of Russian women to navigate the icy streets in 6-inch heels may seem like the eighth wonder of the world to most foreigners. But they have had a lot of training. For the rest of us, it is wiser to stick to comfortable shoes with good grip.

Mind your head!

Slippery Streets

A smaller version of our broader scale map, this gives you an overview of the city and help with general orientation. For more detail, pick up our St. Petersburg In Your Pocket Mini-Guide with the full version of

this map, plus essential listings for what to do and see, plus where to eat and drink.


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66 STREET REGISTER

Street Register1-27-ya liniI B-1, B-2, C-1,C-2Ak. Pavlova ul. D-1/E-1Angliskaya nab. C-2Anglisky pr. B-2Antonenko per. C-2Apraksin per. C-3Aptekarskaya nab. E-1Aptekarsky pr. E-1Arsenalnaya nab. E-2Bakunina pr. E-3/E-4Barochnaya ul. D-1Baskov per. D-3/E-3Belinskogo ul. D-3Beringa ul. B-1Birzhevoy per. C-2Bol. Kazahhy per. C-3Bol. Konyushennaya ul. D-2Bol. Morskaya ul. C-2Bol. Moskovskaya ul. D-3Bol. Podyacherskaya ul. C-2Bol. Pushkarskaya ul. D-1Bol. Sampsonievsky pr. E-2Bol. Zelenina ul. D-1Bolshoy pr.(PS) D-1Bolshoy pr.(VO) B-1/B-2/C-2Borovaya ul. C-3/C-4Botkinskaya ul. E-2Boytsova per. C-3Bronnitskaya ul. B-3Chapaeva ul. E-2Chaykovskogo ul. D-2/E-2/E-3Chernigovskaya ul. B-4Chernnyshevsky pr. E-2/E-3Chernyahovskogo ul. C-4/D-4Chkalovskaya ul. D-1Degtyarnaya ul. E-3Dekabristov per. C-1Dekabristov ul. B-2/C-2Detskaya ul. B-1/B-2Dostoevskogo ul. C-3/D-3Dumskaya ul. C-2Dvortsovaya nab. D-2Efimova ul. C-2/C-3Finlyandsky pr. E-2Fonarny per. C-2Fontanki reki nab.

B-2/B-3/C-3/D-2/D-3Fontannaya ul. E-3Fruktovaya linia C-3Furshtatskaya ul. E-2/E-3Gagarinskaya ul. D-2Galernaya ul. C-2Glinki ul. B-2Goncharnaya ul. D-3Gorohovaya ul. C-2/C-3Grafsky per. D-3Griboedova Kanala nab. B-2/C-2/D-2Inzhenernaya ul. D-2Italyanskaya ul. D-2Izmaylovsky pr. B-3K. Zaslonova ul. C-3Kadetskaya liniya C-2Kamenoostrovsky pr. D-1/D-2Karavannaya ul. D-2Kavalergardskaya ul. E-3Kazanskaya ul. C-2Kharkovskaya ul. D-4Kievskaya ul. B-4Kirillovskaya ul. E-3Kirochnaya ul. E-3Klinsky pr. B-3Klinsky pr. C-3Kolomenskaya ul. D-3Konnogvardeysky bul. C-2Konnogvardeysky per. C-2Krasnoarmeyskaya 1-12-ya B-3Krasnogo kursanta ul. D-1Kremenchugskaya ul. D-4Kronverkskaya nab. D-2Kronverksky pr. D-2Kuibysheva ul. D-2/E-2Lermontovsky pr. B-2/B-3Leytenanta Shmidta nab. C-2Ligovsky pr. B-4/C-4/C-3/D-3Liteyny pr. D-3/E-2Lomonosovskaya ul. C-2/C-3Lva Tolstogo ul. D-1/E-2Makarova nab. C-1/C-2Mal. Moskovskaya ul. D-3Malaya Konyushennaya D-2

Malaya Morskaya ul. C-2Malaya Posadskaya D-2Malaya Sadovaya D-2Maly pr.(PS) D-1Maly pr.(VO) B-1/C-1Maloy Nevki reki nab. D-1Marata ul. D-3Mayakovskgo ul. D-3Medikov pr. D-1/E-1Mikhailovskaya ul. D-2Millionnaya ul. D-2Mira ul. D-2Mokhovaya ul. D-2Morsovo pole D-2Moskovsky pr. B-3/C-3Moyki reki nab. B-2/C-2/D-2Mozhayskaya ul. C-3Mytnenskaya ul. E-3Mytninskaya nab. D-2Nekrasova ul. D-3/E-3Nevsky pr. C-2/D-2/D-3/E-4Obvodnogo kanala nab. B-3/C-3/C -4Odoevskogo ul. C-1Pavlogradsky per. C-4Pestelya ul. D-2Petrogradskaya nab. E-2Petrogradskaya ul. D-1Petrovsky pr. C- 1Pionerskaya ul. D-1Pirogovskaya nab. E-2Pochtamtskaya ul. C-2Podolskaya ul. B-3/C-3Podyezdnoy per. C-3Poltavskaya ul. D-3Pravdy ul. C-3Prilukskaya ul. C-4Prof. Ivashentsova ul. D-4/E-4Prof. Popova ul. D-1/E-1Pushkinskaya ul. D-3Radishcheva ul. E-3Razyezzhaya ul. D-3Rimskogo-Korsakova ul. B-2Robespyera nab. E-2Romenskaya ul. D-4Rubinshteina ul. D-3Ruzovskaya ul. C-3

Ryleyeva ul. E-3Sadovaya ul. B-2/C-2Shpalernaya ul. D-2/E-2/E-3Shvedsky per. D-2Smolenki reki nab. B-1/C-1Smolyachkova ul. E-1Sotsialisticheskaya ul. C-3Sovetskaya 3-10ya E-3Sredny pr.(V0) B-1/C-1/C-2Stolyarny per. C-2Stremyanaya ul. D-3Suvorovsky pr. D-3/E-3Svechnoy per. D-3Synopskay nab. E-4Tavricheskaya ul. E-3Telezhnaya ul. D-4Troitsky pr. B-3Truda ul. C-2Tyushina ul. C-3Universitetskaya nab. C-2Ushakovskaya nab. E-1Vereyskaya ul. C-3Vilensky per. E-3Vladimirsky pr. D-3Volynsky per. D-2Vosstaniya ul. D-3/E-3Voznesensky pr. C-2Vyazemsky per. D-1Zagorodny pr. C-3/D-3Zakharievskogo ul. E-2/E-3Zhukovskogo ul. D-3Zodchego Rossi ul. C-3/D-3Zverinskaya ul. D-2

Ulitsa – ul.Prospekt – pr.Ploshchad – pl.Doroga – dor.Bulvar – bul.Allea – al.Pereulok – per.Shosse – write in fullLiniya – write in fullRekaKanal – kan.Naberezhnaya – nab.

St. Peters Burg in Your Pocket, Feb-Mar 2012

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