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Sprezzatura _ The Report
5
"I found a universal rule which appears to g overn human actions or words more than any other: namely, to steer away from affectation at all costs, as if it were a rough and dangerous reef, and (to use perhaps a novel word for it) to practice in all things a certain sprezzatura which suppresses all artifice and makes whatever one says or does seem uncontrived and effortless." Portrait of Mr Baldassare Castiglione, Renaissance author and courtier, by Raphael Once a man's achieved sartorial perfection - think perfectly fit ting navy suit, pale blue shirt, burgundy t ie and polished black Oxfords - it's time to adopt a mask of sartorial nonchalance, a concept better known as sprezzatura. Purposeful imperfection in dress - the elusive t heory and practice of strategic dishevelment - is a phrase I coined in the pages of Town & Country magazine more than 20 years ago. Ho wever, I didn 't inv ent the concept ; I merely di d the s padewor k to u ncover its f oundati ons. L ike so many modern phenomen a, the r oots of t his modus operandi can be found in the Italian Renaissance. The supreme author of that fecund period of etiquette writing was Mr Baldassare Castiglione, who set down the principles of perfected casualness in his study of court propri ety, The Book of the Courtier, which was published in Venice in 1 528. His advice on the purposefully broken rule - which might these days involve leaving the buckles on your monk-strap shoes undone - was taken up by the courtiers of Urbino and Mantua, for whom he provided his instruction, and from there the concept spread north and east to Germany with the 16th-century Allema gne style of slashed breeches and doublet. Next it came to England, where it was s een in the nonchalant dress of the Cavaliers, which was so brilliantly described i n the works of the poet Mr Robert Herrick. The nonchalance that conceals artistry also inspired the Regency bucks in the circle around Mr Beau Brummell and King George IV in the early years of the 19th century. And as a side note, we have only to look at the era of President Andrew Jackson and then the post-WWII Rebel Without a Caus e period to see the same principle at work i n the U S. THE REPORT: SPREZZATURA JULY 17, 2012 INSIDE THIS WEEK'S ISSUE WELCOME SHIPPING TO SOUTH KOREA SIGN IN | SHOPPING BAG Search PREVIOUS STORY NEXT STORY SALE WHAT'S N EW DESIGNER S CLOTHING SHOES ACCESSORIE S HOME & TECH GIFTS THE JOURNAL STYLE HELP Spre zzatura | The Repor t | The Jour n al | MR PORT ER http://www.mrporter.c om/jour nal /j ournal _issue73 /8 1 of 5 2013-07-18 오전 10:4 3
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"I found a universal rule which appears to g overn human actions or words more than any other: namely, to steer away from affectation at all costs, as if it were a rough and
dangerous reef, and (to use perhaps a novel word for it) to practice in all things a certain sprezzatura which suppresses all artifice and makes whatever one says or does seem
uncontrived and effortless."
Portrait of Mr Baldassare
Castiglione, Renaissance author
and courtier, by Raphael
Once a man's achieved sartorial perfection - think perfectly fit ting navy suit, pale blue shirt, burgundy t ie and polished black Oxfords - it's time to adopt a m ask of sartorial
nonchalance, a concept better known as sprezzatura.
Purposeful imperfection in dress - the elusive t heory and practice of strategic dishevelment - is a phrase I coined in the pages of Town & Country magazine more than 20
years ago. Ho wever, I didn 't invent the concept ; I merely di d the spadework to uncover its f oundations. L ike so many modern phenomena, the r oots of t his modus operandi
can be found in the Italian Renaissance. The supreme author of that fecund period of etiquette writing was Mr Baldassare Castiglione, who set down the principles of
perfected casualness in his study of court propri ety, The Book of the Courtier , which was published in Venice in 1 528.
His advice on the purposefully broken rule - which might these days involve leaving the buckles on your m onk-strap shoes undone - was taken up by the courtiers of Urbino
and Mantua, for whom he provided his instruction, and from there the concept spread north and east to Germany with the 16th-century Allemagne style of slashed breechesand doublet. Next it came to England, where it was s een in the nonchalant dress of the Cavaliers, which was so brilliantly described i n the works of the poet Mr Robert
Herrick. The nonchalance that conceals artistry also inspired the Regency bucks in the circle around Mr Beau Brummell and King George IV in the early years of the 19th
century. And as a side note, we have only to look at the era of President Andrew Jackson and then the post-WWII Rebel Without a Cause period to see the same principle at
work in the U S.
THE REPORT: SPREZZATURA JULY 17, 2012
INSIDE THIS WEEK'S ISSUE
WELCOME
SHIPPING TO SOUTH KOREA
SIGN IN | SHOPPING BAG
Search
PREVIOUS STORY NEXT STORY
SALE WHAT'S N EW DESIGNER S CLOTHIN G SHOES ACCESSORIE S HOME & TECH GIFTS THE JOURNAL STYLE HELP
ezzatura | The Report | The Journal | MR PORTER http://www.mrporter.com/journal/journal_issue73/8
5 2013-07-18 오전 10:43
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ezzatura | The Report | The Journal | MR PORTER http://www.mrporter.com/journal/journal_issue73/8
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